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THE LIBRARY

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

CALEDONIA

CALEDONIA:

OB,

A HISTOEICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL

ACCOUNT OF NORTH BRITAIN

FROM THE MOST ANCIENT TO THE PRESENT TIMES,

A DICTIONARY OF PLACES

CHOROGEAPHICAL ANU PHILOLOGICAL.

GEORGE CHALMERS, E.R.S., F.S.A.

NEW EDITION. — VOL. IV.

PAISLEY: ALEXANDER GARDNER.

1889.

C35c

1/; It
Seci.Ym.~Its Ecclesiastical Histort/.] 0 f N OB T H - B R I T A I N. 501

CHAP. IV. (Continued.)

Of Haddingtonshh'e.

§ viii. Of its Ecclesiastical History.^ It is an instructive fact that within the
Hmits of Lothian scarcely a druid monument remains ; and this fact pretty
plainly intimates that some religious event took place within that country dur-
ing the obscure events which succeeded the abdication of the Roman power,
whereof history is silent. The intrusion of a pagan people upon the Romanized
Ottadini, along the southern shore of the Forth, produced, during the fifth cen-
tury, the destruction of the Druid monuments within the limits of Lothian.

The conversion of the Saxons of Lothian to the truths of Christianity is an
event as darksome as the topic is curious. The worthy Baldred, a disciple of
Kentigern, may be considered as the apostle of East Lothian (e). During the
6th century Baldred fixed his cell at Tyningharae, and thence preached the gos-
pel throughout the adjacent countiy {f\. We have thus seen that svich a per-
son existed during the 6th century, established a religious house at Tyninghame,
and thence went out, at stated periods, according to the practice of the age, to
inculcate the faith by preaching the gospel ((/). Amidst the obscurities of the
6th and 7th centuries, it is in vain to trace the immediate successors of the
deserving Baldred [h). The year 635 is the epoch of the bishopric of Lindis-
farne {i), and this bishopric extended over the ample range of Lothian till the

' (e) Major, 68 ; Spottiswoode's Church Hist., 11.

(/) The English Martyrol., 70-1, wherein he is placed under the 29th of March. In Dempster's
Menologia Scotice, Baldred is put under the Cth of March. Keith speaks of St. Baldred as the successor
of Kentigern and a confessor ; and he martyrs him on the 6th of March, 608 a.d. Keith's Bishops,
232. Baldred died, as we learn from Simeon of Durham, 1. ii., c. 2, on the 6th of March, 60C-7. On
the coast of Tyninghame parish, there is a rock called St. Baldred's Cradle. On the shore of the
neighbouring parish of Aldhame there is a rock which tradition has named St. Baldred's Boat.

(</) There was a Saxon monastery of St. Balther [Baldred] at Tyninghame. Smith's Bede, 231-54.
His district or diocese is described by Simeon : " et tota terra quae pertinet ad monasterium sancti
Balthere quod vooatur Ti/ningham a Lambermore usque ad Escenwthe [Inveresk]." Twisden, 69.
Imperfect as this delineation is,' it comprehends the whole extent of East Lothian.

(Ji) '■ Anlafus iucensa et vastata ecolesia sancti Baldredi in Tyningham, 941, mox periit." Chron.
Melrose. Hoveden says Anlafe spoiled the church of St. Balthar and burnt Tyningham. Saville, 423 ;
see Matthew of Westminster. (;) Saville's Chrouol. Table.

Vol. IV., New Ed.

502 " As A C C 0 U N T [Ch. lY.—Hadilingtonsfdre.

(legline of the Northumbrian kingdom (k). The epoch of the cession of Lothian,
in 1020, to the Scottish king, is also the epoch of the establishment of the
bishop of St. Andrew's jurisdiction over the churches of Lothian. The ai'chdeacon
of Lothian, who derived his power from the bishop of St. Andrews, under the
reigns of David I. and Alexander I., exercised his authority over the whole
clergy of Haddingtonshire. Of old, the three Lothians and the eastern part of
Stirlingshire, formed two deaneries within the diocese of St. Andrews, the
deanery of Linlithgow, and the deanery of Lothian ; and this last deanery, at
the epoch of the ancient Taocatio [1176], included the whole parishes of Had-
dingtonshire and nearl}- the half of the churches of Mid-Lothian (l). Before the
epoch of Bagimont [1275], the deanery of Lothian had changed its name to the
deanery of Haddington, but it retained its ancient limits till the ejDoch of the
Rcfcn'mation. The dean of Haddington and the archdeacon of Lothian were
ecclesiastical persons of great authority under the bishop of St. Andrews, as we
may learn from the chartularies [m). For the better governance of the clergy, the

{k) T3-n;ngliam belonged to the bishopric of Lindisfarne, saith Hoveden. Saville, 418 ; Sim.
Dunelm. Col., 139 ; Lei. Col., i., 366 ; ii., 181.

(/) According to the ancient Taxatio, the decanatus de Lothian comprehended the following parishes,
which were assessed as under :

In East-Lothi

an.

Mercas.

Ecclesia de Seton -

Mercas

- 18

Ecclesia de Haldhamstok -

Ecclesia de Travernent -

Ecclesia de Innerwyk
Ecclesia de Dunbar cum capella

Whytinge-

Ecclesia de Keth-hundby
Ecclesia de Keth-marschall

30
12

ham ...

180

Ecclesia de Ormiston

Ecclesia de Tyningham
Ecclesia de Hanus [Petcoks]
Ecclesia de Aldham -

100

rick of
Eoll.]

Dunkeld]

Aberlady [within the bishop
Spot [rectoria in Bagimont's

Ecclesia de Linton -

Ecclesia de North-Berwyk -

In Mid-Lothian.

Ecclesia de Hadingtoun

120

Ecclesia de Muskilburgh

Capella St - - -

Ecclesia de Cranstoun

Ecclesia de Elstanford

Ecclesia de Creichtoun -

Ecclesia de Garvald -

Ecclesia de Fauelaw

Ecclesia de Barwe

Ecclesia de Locherwort -

■

Ecclesia de Morliam -

Ecclesia de Kerynton

Ecclesia de Bothani -
Ecclesia de Bolton -
Ecclesia de Salton
Ecclesia de Penkatland _ -

30
20
30
40

Ecclesia de Kocpen
Ecclesia de Clerkington -
Ecclesia de Maistertoii -
Ecclesia de Heriet

20
8
4

Ecclesia de Golyn

Ecclesia de Monte Laodoniae

(m) There is a charter of Richard, bishop of St. Andrews, to the monastery of Iladdington, in
which Andrew, the archdeacon of Lothian, is a witness. Transact. Soc. Antiq. Edin., i., 112-13.

Sect. VITT —Its Ecclesiastical Histor)/.] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 503

bishop uf St. Andrews used to call episcopal synods; more anciently at Berwick,
as we have seen ; inore recently at Haddington, as we may now perceive (n).
There is a composition of the year 1245, between the prior and chapter of St.
Andrews on the one part, and the monks of Haddington on the other, in which
the chapter " Orientali Laodonie," of East Lothian is very distinctly stated.
This co^njjosition was read before the chapter of Lothian, by whom it was testi-
fied (o). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was established in an evil hour by
Charles I., the ancient authority of the bishop of St. Andrews was taken away,
and his powers were transferred to the bishop of Edinburgh (p). The ecclesias-
tical affair's of this district continued to be properly managed, till the Refor-
mation placed it under the jurisdiction of synods and presbyteries.

Connected with that regimen of old were the religious houses, which owed
obedience to the diocesan power of the episcopate of St, Andrews. During the
reign of Malcolm IV. the Countess Ada, the mother of Malcolm and Wilham,
founded, near Haddington, a convent of Cistercian nuns, which was dedicated
to the Virgin, and whose site is still marked by a village, which is called
the Abbey (q). This monastery, before the age of David II., was very richly
endowed by the several grants of various personages (r). In the ancient Taxatio
the lands of this house were rated at £100. In July 1292, Alicia, the prioress
of Haddington, with her convent, did homage to Edward I. (s). On the 28th
of August 1 29G, Eve, the successor of Alicia, submitted to the same overbear-
ing prince, and, in return, had a restoration of her rights {t). An inundation
of the Tyne at Christmas 1358, had well nigh swept away the nunnery, which,

There is a charter of bishop Eoger in which William, the archdeacon of Lothian, and Andrew, the
dean of Lothian, ai'e witnesses. Id. Laurence, the archdeacon of Lothian, is a witness to a charter of
bishop Malvoisin, from 1202 to 1233. lb., 114. In 1268, on the elevation of William Wiscard
[WischartJ from the see of Glasgow to the see of St. Andrews, " Eobertus Wiscard nepos ejus, archi-
diacanus Laodonice factus est electus Glasguensis, deinde in episcopum consecratus." Chron. Melrose ;
Keith's Bishops, 143.

(«) From attendance at those synods the bishop used sometimes to grant dispensations. He granted
to the monks of Durham an exemption from attending his synods at Berwick. Smith's Bede, App. xx.
In 1293 Bishop Lamberton exempted the abbots of Dryburgh from attending his synodal meetings at
Iladdimjtou. Chart. Dryb., 177, and if those abbots of Diy burgh should attend those meetings on
urgent occasions, the bishop granted them a pension, to be paid by the dean of Haddington. Id.

(o) Trans. Ant. Soc. Edin., 119, which is a very instructive document.

(^:>) See the charter of erection in Keith, 28-37. By it the mini>tjrs of Tranent, Haddington, and
Dunbar were constituted three of the nine prebendaries ol Edinburgh.

((/) See her grants in the Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin.

(r) MS. Monast. Scotia. Major, who was born at Haddington, speaks of this house as " monasterium
pulchrum, et opulentum.'' («) Eym., ii., 572. {t) Prynne, iii., 653 ; Rym., ii. 725.

504 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. IV.— Haddingtonshire.

according to the legend of the times, was preserved by the intervention of the
Virgin {u). In May 1359, William, the bishop of St. Andrews, more effectually
preserved the pi-ioress, her house, and her possessions, by an insjyeximus charter,
which speaks of Haddington as being near the hostile border, and subject thereby
to frequent devastation, and which confirms her rights and recognizes her pri-
vileges (x). The prioress and nuns of Haddington were subject to other at-
tacks. The lairds of Yester and Makerstoun ungallantly seized their lands of
Nunhopes, and the injured nuns had no other resource than a complaint, in
1471, to the privy council. But the lairds were not to be frightened from their
prey, and the prioress brought a complaint of their pertinacity and her wrongs
before the parliament, in May 1471. The appropriate judges of such injuries,
upon proof of the facts, decreed the two lairds to be committed, and to refund
to the prioress and convent the profits of their lands {y). The effluxion of
years brought with it other grievances to the prioress and nuns of Haddington.
The state of the country was such as that the granges of their convent should
be fortified ; and at their grange of Nunraw, in Garvald parish, they had a for-
talice. In February 1547-8, Elizabeth Hepburn, the prioress, apjDeared before
the regent and his council, and engaged to keep the fortlet of Nunraw from
their old enemies, or to cause it to be razed (2). In July 1548, a parliament as-
sembled in her nunnery, where it was resolved, by the Estates, to defend their
harassed land against their old enemies, and to send their infant queen to
France as a place of safety from the fraudulence and force which assailed
them (a). The time came at length when the same prioress was required
to give a statement of her estate, with a view to the suppression of her
nunnery (6). This nunneiy had for its economist old Sir Richard Maitland of
Lethington, the statesman, the jurist, the poet (c). The monastery of Hadd-

(u) Fordun, 1. xiv., c. 21.

(x) That charter of bishop William is printed in Trans. Soc. Aut. Edin., 106.

(y) Pari. Rec, 160, states both the wrong and the reparation of the nuns, and incidentally furnishes
a singular trait of the rudeness of the times. (i) Keith's App., 56. (a) lb., 55.

(b) In February, 1561, Elizabeth Hepburn, who was now called a venerable ladij, stated that there
were then in the convent eighteen nuns, who were each allowed £4 yearly for clothes, 4 bolls of wheat,
and 3 bolls of meal, with eightpence a day for flesh and fish. Books of Assumption. She reported
her revenues to be in money £308 17s. 6d.; wheat, 7 chalders, 11 bolls. [In this statement the oats
are omitted.] She had, moreover, fines, carriages, capons, other poultry, from the tenants on her
estates. The Books of Assumption stated this rental somewhat larger. But there had been some
dilapidations of the estates of the convoiit when the hand of reform began to be felt.

(c) On the loth of December, 1564, Sir Richard designates himself, in a charter to his son,
" Oeconomus monasterii monialium de Hadington." Spottiswoode, 514.

Sect. VIII.— /<s Ecclesiastical History.'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 50'5

iiigton was given by the queen to her .secretary, William Maitland, Sir Richard's
eldest son, who is so celebrated for his talents and tergiversation ; and who is
called the father ofmishiefhj Knox, and the chamdion by Buchanan. Wliat
was said of Buchanan himself might be appropriately said of Secretary Mait-
land,— his abilities were honourable, but his crimes were disgraceful to Scot-
land (d).

At North-Berwick, on the south-western side of the town, upon a command-
ing height, which looks down upon the Forth and upon the shore of Fife beyond
it, Duncan, the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154, founded a convent for
Cistercian nuns (e). The founder gave them some lands in his manor of North-
Berwick, with the pati'onage of its church and various lands and revenues in
Fife; and they acquired the advowson of the chui'ch of Largo, of Kilconquhar,
Kilbrachment, and St. Monance, in Fife, with some lands that belonged to
each of them. The bishop of Dunblane gave them the church of Logie-Airthry
near Stirling. Adam de Kilconacher, the Earl of Carrick, who was their
zealous patron, confirmed, in 126G, to those nuns the grants of his fathers {/);
and they obtained various lands, tithes, and revenues, in East and West-
Lothian, in Fife, in Ayrshire, and in the shires of Berwick and of Roxburgh (g).

((Z) On tlie 13th of December, 1563, Randolph -wrote to Cecil, that " the abbey of Haddington was
given by the queen to Lethington," [Secretary Maitland.] Keith, 244. On the 20th of October,
1567, dame Isabel Hepburn, the prioress of this abbey, issued her precept to Eichard Cranston, her
baillie, directing him to infeft William Maitland, the younger of Lethington, in the demesne lands of
her monastery of Haddington, in the lands of Mortoun, of West Hopes, of East Hopes, of Woodend, of
Newlands, of Windislaw, of Snawdown, of Carfrae, of Little-Newton, with the tithes ; all which she
had granted him in fee with the consent of her chapter. Spottiswoode, 515. Almost all those lands
lie in the parish of Garvald.

(e) Sir James Dalrymple, Col., 268, said he had seen David I.'s charter, confirming that foundation,
which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the charters of King William and Earl Duncan, with
other charters, from the Kings, the Earls of Fife, from Duncan of Carrick, Adam de Kilconachar, the
Earl of Carrick, and from the bishops of St. Andrews, to the monastery of North Berwick ; but that
they were all nearly burnt in the great fire at Edinburgh in 1700. Spottiswoode, 515 ; and Keith,
282. Both, being misled by Fordun, mistakingly say that this nunnery was founded in 1216 by a
second Duncan, Earl of Fife.

(/) That knightly person, whose very name has been mistaken by the Scottish chroniclers, was the
first husband of the Countess of Carrick, the mother of Robert Bruce, the restorer of tlie Scottish
monarchy : " An" 1270, obijt Adam de Kilconcath, comes de Carrick, in Anconia, cujus uxorem
commitissam de Carrick postea junior Rob. de Bruys accepit sibi, in sponsam." Chron. Melrose.

{g) Among much greater matters, Edward de Lestalric granted them a toft in Leith, with three
acres of land, at Greenside which they leased for ever to the monks of Newbotle, for the yearly rent
of half a mark legal money. Chart. Newbot., 57-8.

506 A N A C C 0 U N T [Oh. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

In the ancient Ta.catio, the lands which belonged to the nuns of North-Berwick
were rated at £66 13s. 4d. In 1290, the prioress of North-Berwick submitted
to the overpowering Edward I., and in return she obtained from his policy
■writs to the several sheriffs of Fife, Edinburgh, Haddington, Berwick, and Rox-
burgh, to restore the estates of her convent (h). While submission thus
ensured protection, the female inhabitants of the nunnery of North-Berwick were
safe ; but in the progress of turbulence and warfare, anarchical ages arose,
■when weakness only invited the attacks of violence. Such was the state of
Scotland under James III. The servants and the tithes of the prioress, within
the parishes of Kilconquhar, Kilbranchmont, and St. Monance, were assaulted
and seized by John Dishington and other inhabitants of Fife, which seems to
have been noted for violence in eveiy age. The prioress applied to parlia-
ment in December 1482, for protection against obvious wrongs, and the
Lords decreed the wrong-doers to restore the property taken, and to repair the
damages done (i). In the subsequent reign, Margaret Home, the fourth
daughter of Sir Pati'ick Home of Polworth, who died in 1504, became a nun,
and rose to be prioress in this convent of North-Berwick (k). Her niece,
Isobel Home, the third daughter of Sir Alexander Home of Polworth, who died
in 1532, from being a nun also succeeded her aunt as prioress (I). We
have thus seen that, before the Reformation began, the nunnery of North-
Berwick had become in a great measure the inheritance of the Homes. After

(J) Eym., ii., 723. There was a guai'dian of this nunnery as well as a prioress. On the 28th of
August, 1296, 'W'^illiam Vicaire de I'Eglise de Lancta, gardeyn de la Priorite de North-Berwick, swore
fealty to Edward I. at Berwick. Prynne, iii., 660. Sir James Dalrymple, Col., 268, says this convent
had a prior as well as a prioress ; but Sir James was not much versed in the details of such establishments.

(t) Pari. Eec, 266. This was the first Parliament after the restoration of James III., when he could
Tiardly sustain his crown against the insidiousness of Albany and the intrigues of Angus.

(/.) Dougl. Peer., 445.

(/) Id. In 1532, Dame Isobel Home granted to her half-brother, Alexander Home, in fee, the tithes
•of the church of Largo in Fife. Spottiswoode, 516. She was succeeded as prioress by Margaret
Home, who, on the 24th of March, 1555-6, granted the tithes of the parish of Logie, in the diocese of
Dunblane, to Sir Patrick Home of Polworth, and to his heirs. Id. On the 18th of March, 1569-70,
Alexander Home, the second son of Sir Patrick Home of Polworth, obtained a grant " officii Balivatus
monasterii de Korth Berwick.'' Id., which quotes the public archives. At the Reformation the
income of the nunnery, which was then inhabited by eleven nuns, who had each £20 a year, was
stated thus : Money, £556 17s. 8d. : wheat, 9 chalders, 12 bolls ; bear, 19 chalders, 4 bolls ; oats, 14
chalders, 4 bolls ; pease and beans, 3 chalders, 9 bolls ; malt, 1 boll, 3 firlots, and 3 pecks ; 18 oxen,
13 cows; 1 last, 9 barrels of salmon. Books of Assumption.

Sect. \m.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 r N 0 E T II - B E I T A I N. 507

the Reformation, the revenues of this nunnery, which had remained undilapi-
dated, were converted by operation of law into a lordship for Sir Alexander
Home of North-Berwick, a favourite of James VI. The patronage of the
churches of Kilconquhar, Largo, Logie, and Maybole were conferred, by the
king's pleasure and the parliamentary power, on several persons who thought
themselves entitled to plunder the house which they had assisted in pulling
down (»/).

At Gullane, near the church, stood of old a convent of Cistercian nuns, which
was a cell of the Cistercian nunnery of David I.'s foundation at Berwick, and
which ran the devious course of similar establishments (n). At Elbotle, in the
parish of Dirlton, there was such a convent for Cistercian nuns, which was also
a cell of the same establishment at South-Berwick (o). Such, then, were the
Cistercian monasteries in East-Lothian, of which we have seen the rise, the
elevation and suppression.

Of Franciscan friars or minorites, East-Lothian had its share of their estab-
lishments. During the reign of Alexander II., a Franciscan monastery was
founded in Haddington town (p). In February 1355-G, while Edward III.
wasted the whole lands of East-Lothian, he burnt the town and monastery of
Haddington with the church of the minorites. Fordun speaks feelingly of this
as a sumptuous work, which was universally admired as the ligJd of Lothian (y).
Major, on the other hand, inveighs against the minorites for building so costly

(«/) See the act of the Estates on the 4th August, 1565, in Glendook. There is a delineation of
the ruins of the monastery of North Berwick in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 74. (m) Spottiswcode, 512.

(o) Id. The name of El-botle is merely an abbreviation of the Saxon Eld-hoi\e, signifying the old
dwelling, in contradistinction, perhaps, to Newbotle, in Mid-Lothian. In Font's map of Lothian, ia
Blaeu, the place is called Ohl-Bvttel.

{p) In 1314, Sir John Congalton of Congalton granted to those friars a provision of bread and wiue
to the altar of St. Duthac, in the name of the church of those minorites, near to which the bodies of
his father and mother were buried ; and the friars were obliged to celebrate the anniversaries of the
grantor, and of his father and mother, and of his ancestors and successors, at the said altar, so long as
there should be three brethren in the convent. Dougl. Peer., .521. Sir William Seton, during the
reign of Eobert III., made a similar grant to the same friars of coals and money. MS. Hist, of the family.

(q) Ford., 1. xiv., c. 13. On the 16th of September, 1421, the Tyne being flooded by unusual rains,
carried away twelve mills and entered the friar church in Haddington, so that the valuables in the
sacristy and the books in the library were spoilt. lb., 1. xv., c. 34. The western part of this once
splendid structure is now used as the parish church of Haddington. The other part of it, being
unroofed, is falling fast into ruins. See a view of it in the Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., by Col. Hutton of
the Artillery, and another delineation in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 82.

508 AnACCOUNT [Ch. TV.—HaMingtonshire.

a church, and supposes that this cbrcumstance, as much as the sins of the town,
may have induced God to give the whole to the flames. For such oracular ob-
servations. Major exposed himself to the ridicule of Buchanan and the contempt
of Knox, who, without superior learning, were guilty of greater faults.

Haddington also had a house of Dominican or Black Friars', who were intro-
duced into Scotland during the reign of Alexander II. ; but nothing of its foun-
der and little of its history are known (r). They ran the same course with
similar establishments, and when their usefulness was gone their oblivion be-
gan. In 1218, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded a house of Red or Trinity
Friars at Dunbar ; and the lands which piety or zeal had given them, were
transferred, after the Reformation, to George Home of Friarslancls (s). On
such occasions this observation must for ever occur, that such lands, in posses-
sion of such establishments, were of some use to the public ; but, in the hands
of an individual, they were of none. In 1263, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded
a house for Carmelites or White Friars at Dunbar ; but it appears not what
favourite was gratified with this property, instead of the heirs of the founder {t).
At Lufihess, in Aberlady parish, there was another convent of Carmelites, to
whom David II. granted a charter of confii-mation, as a tribute of his appro-
bation («).

In Haddingtonshire there were at least half a dozen hospitals which had their
usefulness during ages of misery. The best endowed in Scotland, perhaps, was
the hospital which was founded in 1164 by Malcolm IV. at Soltre. On the
summit of Soutra hill, which separates the Lothians from Lauderdale, Malcolm
founded his house, for the relief of pilgrims, the sustentation of the poor,
and the help of the sickly. Malcolm richly endowed it with many lands.
This youthful king gave it the privilege of sanctuary while crimes were not
unfrequent ; and there led from it, southward, through the moors to Mel-
rose, a path which thus acquired the ajspropriate name of the Girth-gate (x).
General Roy, a pi'ofessed quarter-master, was led out of his course of inquiries
by this Girth-gate, as we have seen. There was a way which led up Lauderdale
to Soutra hill, and which, as we have observed, was called Malcolm's road. The
gi'ants of Malcolm IV. to Soltre were confirmed, by his two immediate succes-
sors, William and Alexander II., who added to his their own liberalities. From

()•) Trans. Antiq. Soc. EJin., 61 ; Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 82. (s) Spottiswoode, 505. (t) lb., 505.

(u) Robertson's Index, 51. Spottiswoode, in his ambition of knowledge, has mistakingly planted Eed
Friars at Lufifness. Acco. of Eelig. Houses, App. to Hope's Minor Practicks, 430.

(x) Iq the Saxon speech, wo may remember, t/irth signified a sanctuary, and gate a way.

Sect. VIII. —Its Ecclesiastical History.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 509

bishops, barons, and from inferior persons, the master and brethren of this
house obtained churches, tithes, lands, tofts, annuities, corn, meal, and
other property, privileges, and exemptions (y). But the master and brethren
of Soltre did long enjoy such great estates in quiet. On the 29th of July
1292, Ralph, the master of Soltre, swore fealty to Edwtird I. in the chapel of
Edinburgh castle (z). On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas, the master of the
Trinity hospital of Soltre, did homage to the same prince at Berwick («) ;
and he obtained in return, precepts to several sherifis to deliver him the
estates and rights of the hospital (6). In 1410, Thomas de Alton was master
of Soltre (c), and in 1440 Thomas Lauder was also master of the same
house ; and he was tutor to James II. ; and was made bishop of Dun-
keld in 1453. He resigned his bishopric in 1476, being unable, from age
and infirmity, to perform the functions of his diocese (d). On the 25th of

(y) To this hospital belonged, from the gift of the founder, the church of Soltre, with its pertinents.
It derived the church of Wemyss, in Fife, with its tithes and tofts, from the grant of John de
Methkill, during the reign of William, which was confirmed by David and GamelLn, the bishops of
St. Andrews. Chart. Solt., 1-38. The church of Urd [Kirkurd], in Tweeddale, with its pertinents,
which was confirmed by the Bishop of Glasgow in 1231. lb., 40-2. The church of St. Martin of
Strathechyn, with its pertinents, which was confirmed by the Bishop of St. Andrews between 1214
and 1248. lb. 3. The church of Lempetlaw, in Teviotdale, was given to this hospital by Richard
Germyn during the reign of Alexander II. lb., 4. The church of St. Giles of Ormiston was given the
hospital by William, the Bishop of St. Andrews, from 1202 to 1233. lb., 5. The master and
brethren of the house obtained, from Malcolm IV., the lands of Hangandshaw in Teviotdale, which
was confirmed by Alexander II. lb., 25-7. They acquired some lands from Simon Fraser in the
districts of Keith, Jonestoun, and Keitb-Harvey. lb., 26. Eichard, the expensarius of William the
Lion, gave them his lands in Paistoun, in East-Lothian. lb., 22. Thomas de Cranstoun gave them a
culture of land within the same district. lb., 15. William de Muleneys gave them half a carucate of
land in Saltoun. lb'., 11. Peter de Grame conferred on them three bovates of land in Elviston. lb.,
49. Nicholas de Vetereponte gave them the lands of Swanston in Mid-Lothian. lb., 13. In 1228
Alexander II. gave them yearly a thrave of corn from every plough withiu his lands lying southward
of the Forth. lb., 41. He gave them also half a chalder of meal yeaily from the mill of Peebles.
lb., 8. John de Strivelin granted a thrave of corn yearly from each plough within his lands lying on
the south of the Forth. lb., 27. Thomas de Hay made them a similar grant from his lands in the
same country. lb., 53. David Olifard gave them a thrave of corn yearly from every plough within
his lands. lb., 16. And from various other persons tbey obtained grants of lands, tithes, rents, and
profits. See their chartulary, which remains in the Advocates' Library. [Printed in the Bannatyne
Club Publications.]

{z) Eym., ii., 572, {a) Prynne, iii., 660. (b) Eym., ii., 726.

(d) On the 13th of March 1480-1, James III. confirmed a charter of Thomas, late Bishop of
Dunkeld, and now bishop of the universal church. He died on the 4th of November 1481, after seeing
his house, the pious foundation of Malcolm IV., perverted to a different purpose. Keith, 55.

510 A K A C C 0 U N T [Ch. IV .—Haddingtonshire,

March 1462, Mary of Gueldre, tlie widowed queen of James II., founded
near Edinburgh, a collegiate chiu'ch, which she dedicated to the Trinity, and
which was to consist also of a hospital, for the maintenance of thirteen poor
persons ; and for the support of this mixed establishment, the churches,
lands, and revenues belonging to the hospital of Soltre, were assigned by
apostolic authority for those useful ends (c). At Balencrief, the habitation at
the tree, in Aberlady parish, there was an /ios2:)iVa/ founded as early as the 12th
century ; though by whose piety it was dedicated to St. Cuthbert is now un-
known. On the 29th of July 1292, William Fornal, " magister domus de
Ballencrief," swore fealty to Edward I. in the chapel of Edinburgh castle (/).
The site of St. Cuthbert's hospital was named by the Scottish settlers here,
Balan-an-craobh, which is pronounced Balancreiv, in order to denote the habita-
tion at the tree ; and it is now the seat of Lord Elibank. Near Seton there
was founded in the 12th century, a hospital which was dedicated to St. Ger-
mains, who thus gave his name to the place (g). It is still the seat of a gentle-
man. On the 28th of August 1296, Bartholomew, the master of this hospital,
swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick (h) ; and in return, he received precepts
to the sheriffs of Berwick, Edinburgh, and Fife, of Kincardine and Aberdeen,
to restore the revenues of the house, which was tlius situated in several shires (i).
At Haddington town, there was of old an hospital which was dedicated to the
Virgin, and yet escaped the researches of Spottiswoode {Ic). In the vicinage of
the shire town there was a hospital dedicated to St. Laurence, and which left
its name to a hamlet on the same site (l). On the estate of Gosford, in Aber-
lady parish, there was anciently an hospital at a place which is known by
the name of Gosford Spited. At Houston, in East-Lothian, there was of old

(e) Maitland's Edin., 207-10. Nothing remains but the ruins of the hospital of Soltre, on Soutra
Hill, near the wayside from Edinburgh to Kelso ; and adjoining them is a spring which was con-
secrated of old to the Trinity, and is called by the country people, the Tarnfy [Veil, that was much
frequented by diseased persons.

(/) Eym., ii., .572. On the 28th of August 1296. William Tornal, " Gardein de I'hospital de St.
Cuthbert, de Balnecryf," swore fealty to the same king at Berwick. Prynne, iii., 6G3.

(g) Among the several St. Qermains, we may suppose the British, as best known, to have been the
saint to whom this hospital was dedicated. English Martyr., 97.

(/() Prynne, iii., 6.55. (i) Eym., ii., 725.

(k) Edward II., when he affected the sovereignty of Scotland, on the 19th of July 1319, conferred
on Thomas do Gayregrave the custody of the hospital of the Virgin Mary at Haddington. Rym., iii., 786.

(/) James V. made his chaplain, Walter Eamsay, the rector of this hospital, to which the confirma-
tion of the Pope was asked. Epist. Eeg. Scot., i., 193.

Sect. VIIT. —Its Ecclesiastical Historij.'] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 511

an hospital, though the piety of the founder and the site of the foundation he
now equally unknown, as folly has changed the name of the place which was
once denoted by wisdom (/) ; yet Houston appears as a provostry in the books
of the privy seal, as we learn from Keith {in).

Collegiate churches were not known in Scotland till the troublous reign of
David II. The first establishment of this kind was founded at Dunbar by
Patrick, Earl of March, in 1342, when it was confirmed by William, the
bishop of St. Andrews. The constitution of the collegiate church of Dunbar
consisted of a dean, an archpriest, and eighteen canons. For their support
were assigned the revenues of the church of Dunbar, and the incomes of the
chapels of Whittinghame, of Spott, of Stenton, of Panshel [Penshiel], and of
Hetherwick. The founder annexed to his collegiate establishment the churches
of Linton in East-Lothian, and Duns and Chirnside in Berwickshii'e ; and
he reserved the patronage of the whole to himself and his successors, the Earls
of Dunbar (/i). This collegiate church was confirmed in 1492 by Henry, the
bishop of St. Andrews, who recited the confirmation of his predecessor. By
a new regulation of this collegiate church, there were appointed as prebends of
it, the churches of Dunbar, Pinkerton, Spot, Beltoun, Petcokis, Linton,
Duns, and Chirnside. Except Pinkerton, these were all settled churches (o).

(I) Among tlie East-Lothian gentry who swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on the 28th of
August 1296, was " brother John, the master of the Trinity Hospital at Howeston." Prynne, iii., 956.
A writ was soon after issued to the Sheriff of Haddington, directing the restoration of the property
of the Holy Trinity at Howeston. Eym., ii., 726. In Bagimont's Roll the '• magistratus de Howston,"
in the deanery of Haddington, is rated at £8.

{ill) Hist. App., 257. It had been meantime converted, perhaps, into a collegiate church,
(/i) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., 3. Columba Dunbar was dean of the collegiate church of Dunbar
in 1411. In 1429 he was made Bishop of Moray, and he died in 1435. Keith's Bishops, 84.

(o) In Bagimont's Roll the component parts of the collegiate church of Dunbar were separately
rated as under : —

In the deanery of Haddington. Eeotoria de Beltoun, - - - £4 0 0

Decanatus de Dunbar, - - - £13 6 8 Rectoria d ■ Petcokis, - - - 2 13 4

Archiepresbyterus, - - - 8 0 0 Rectoria de Linton, - - - 20 0 0
Rectoria de Dunbar, ---800 In the deanery of the Merse.

Prebendarius de Pinkerton, - - 5 6 8 Rectoria de Duns, - - - 10 0 0

Eeotoria de Spot, - - - 5 6 8 Rectoria de Chirnside, - - - 4 0 0

The same rates appear in a tax-roll of the archbishopric of St. Andrews in 1547. Master John
Fleming was prebendary of Pinkerton on the 20th of March 1478-9. Pari. Rec, 249.

512 A N A 0 C 0 U N T [Ch. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

The patronage of this collegiate church fell to the king, by the forfeiture of the
earldom of March in 1435 {p).

Next in antiquity to the collegiate churcli of Dunbar, within this shire, was
the collegiate establishment at Dunglass. Here in 1403 Sir Alexander Home
of Home, who derived Dunglass from his mother, Nicolas Papedy, founded
a college church for a provost and prebendaries, whom he endowed with
several lands and some rents [q). Sir Alexander Home, the son of the
founder, gave to this collegiate church four husband-lands in the manor of
Chirnside, which were confirmed by James II. (r). In Bagimont's Roll the
provostry of Dunglass, in the deanery of Haddington, was rated at £5 6s. 8d.
After the Reformation the revenue of the provostry of Dunglass was returned
at £82 (s).

At Bothans, wMch was the name of the parish church of Yester, Sir William
Hay of Locherwart founded, in 1421, a collegiate church for a provost, six
prebendaries, and two singing boys ; and he endowed his foundation with
lands and with rents. Sir William Hay, the founder, married for his second
wife, Alicia Hay, the daughter of Sir Thomas Hay of Errol, whom he left a
widow in 1421, and she outlived him almost 30 years. She granted, for the
support of a chaplain in the college church of Bothans, the lands of Blanes,
within the constabulary of Hadding-ton, with various rents from tenements in
Haddington town, amounting to £4 2s 6d. Thei'e were settled on this collegiate
chui'ch also, the lands which her son, Sir David Hay, gave as a mansion for
the accommodation of the chaplain and his successors (t). In Bagimont's Roll
the prcBjMsitura of Bothans is rated at £40 (u). In December 1475, Muister
Andrew Hay, the provost of Bothans, brought a suit in parliament against
Robert Lord Fleming, who was adjudged by the lords auditors, to pay the

(y>) Pari. Eec, 72. After the Eeformation, the revenue of the archpriestry of Dunbar was stated
at £80. Books of the Collectors of the Thirds.

(5) Dougl. Peer., 343, which quotes the charter in the archives of Home. Nisbet saj-s he saw the
arms of Papedy impaled with those of Home, which were cut upon a stone in the chapel of Dunglass.
Heraldry, ii., 53. We may suppose the chapel that Nisbet inspected to have been this collegiate
church. (r) Spottiswoode, 522. («) The Books of the Collectors of the Thirds.

(<) MS. Donations. On the 8th of March, 1539, Robert Watherston granted for the same purpose,
of supporting a chaplain for Bothan's church, a tenement in the Herdgate, and another in the Moor-
gate of Haddington, with the several annual rents, amounting to £3 lOs. 8d., in the same burgh, and
two acres of land on the northern side of the town. Id.

(u) After the Eeformation, the revenue of this collegiate church was given in at £100 Scots.
Books of the Collectors of the Thirds.

Sect. VIII.— /is Ecclesiastical Ilistortj.] OrNORTH-CEITAIN. 513

complainant 13 marks 10s. and 8d. for the debt (a). Some doubts have been
entertained, though without a cause, whether the collegiate church of Bothans
and Yester be the same. In the ancient Taxatio the church was called " ecclesia
de Bothani." Like other establishments, it was sometimes called St. Bothans,
from the patron Saint, and sometimes Yester, from the place (&).

At Dirlton, there was founded in 1444 a collegiate church with a small
establishment by Sir Walter Halyburton. Its endowment seems to have been
inconsiderable. Even at the Reformation, its revenue was returned only at
£20 (c). Till that epoch the patronage of this collegiate church continued as a
pertinent of the barony (J). The splendid church of Seton was made collegiate
by George, Lord Seton in 1493. He herein formed an establishment of a
provost, six prebendaries, two singing boys, and a clerk ; and he assigned
for their support the lands and tithes of this church, with the chaplainries
which had been founded in it by the piety of his ancestors (e). In Bagimont's
Roll, the praepositura de Seton, in the deaneiy of Haddington, was rated at
£2 13s. 4d. At the Reformation, the revenue of this provostry was returned
at £40 (/). In 1544, the English invaders, on their return from wasting Leith,
burnt the castle of Seton ; and in their rage spoiled the collegiate church,
carrying away the bells, organs, with the usual ornaments and other move-
ables, which they embarked on board their attendant fleet ((/). Near Seton, at
St. Germains, there was an establishment of the Knights Temjjlars, which, with
their revenues, were bestowed by James IV., after their suppression, on the
■ King's College of Aberdeen (/i). In those religious establishments we may
perceive the singular manners, perhaps the munificent piety, of several per-

(a) Pari. Eec, 192. In 1469 Andrew Hay, the second son of Sir David Hay of Yester, was rector
of Biggar.

(J) The village at the church was also called Bothans. In 1320 Sir John Gifford, of Tester,-
granted to the monks of Dryburgh an annual rent from his village of Bothan. Dougl. Peer., 709.
Yet Spottiswoode has made them two different places. Acco. of Eeligious Houses, 519-29.

(e) His charter of foundation, which was dated on the 20th of June, 1493, was confirmed by
Andrew, the abbot of Newbotle, as the Pope's delegate. Lord Seton built for his collegiate church
a new sacristry, which was covered with stone. The founder died in 1507, and was buried near the
high altar of his college church. Spottiswoode, 528 ; Sir Eichard Maitland's MS. History of the Seton
family.

(/) Collector's Books of the Thirds.

{g) Old Sir Eichard Maitland, who lived at the time of those terrible events, testifies the facts in
his MS. Hist, of the Seton family.

(h) Spottiswoode, 479.

514 An ACCOUNT [Ch. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

sonao-es who dignified this shire by their residence, and improved it by their
practices.

The Reformation changed the ecclesiastical regimen of East-Lothian with-
out addiiic much to its morals. Of old, Haddington was the seat of a
deanery as well as the place of synodical meetings of the diocese. Since that
epoch it has become the seat of a presbytery, which comprehends fifteen of the
East-Lothian parishes. The town obviously gave its name to the parish, to the
presbytery, and to the shire ; and the town derived its appellation from being
the tun, or village of a Saxon settler called Haden, who sat down here, on the
bank of the Tyne, after the Scoto-Saxon period began. The origin of the parish
is lost in the obscurities of the preceding age. It was already a parish at the
accession of David I. to the throne, and during those times it was of much
larger extent than at present. It comprehended a considerable part of Athel-
staneford parish till the year 1G74, and a large part of Gladsmuir parish till
1692. The ancient church of Haddington-s/wVe was dedicated to the Virgin
INIarj^ who was the common patroness of similar establishments in this district.
About the year 1134, David I. gi'anted to the church of St. Andrew of Cilrimont,
or priory of St Andrews, in perpetual alms, the chui'ch. of St. Mary at Had-
dington, wnth its chapels, lands, tithes, and other dues, with every thing belonging
to it within the same parish (i). He soon after gave to the church of St. Maiy
at Haddington, and to the priory of St. Andrews, the lands of Clerkton, accord-
ing to their true boundaries, on both sides of the Tyne above the town, as the
limits had been perambulated ; and he also conferred on those churches a toft
in Haddington, near the churcli, with the tithes, as well of the mills as of other
objects within the w'hole parish (k). All those grants were confirmed by
David's grandsons, Malcolm IV. and William. They wei'e also confirmed
by their diocesans, the successive bishops of St. Andrews. Under all those
confirmations, the church of Haddington remained annexed to the priory of
St. Andrews, and was served by a vicar, till the Reformation introduced here
a very difierent system. In 1245, a convention, which was entered into within
the church of Lauder, was made between the prior and convent of St. Andrews,
and the master and monks of Haddington, for settling lasting disjiutes with re-
gard to tithes and other ecclesiastical dues (l). In the ancient Taxatio, the church
of Haddington was rated at 120 marks, while the chapel of St. Laurence, which
belonged to it as the mother chui-ch, was rated at five marks. The patronage

((■) Diplom. Scotise, pi. xvi. {h) Id., xvi.

(I) Tians. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 119.

Sect. \ni.—Iis Ecclcsia.-tical Histonj.] Or NORTH-BRITAIN. 515

of the church belonged to the prior of St. Andrews, and the patronage of the
chapel to the nuns of Haddington. There was also a chapel in Haddington
which was dedicated to St. Catherine. In the same neighbourhood there
were also two chapels belonging to the same church ; the one was dedicated
to St. John, which probably belonged to the Knights Templars ; and the other
to St. Kentigern ; and there was a chapel within the barony of Penstoun,
which formed the western extremity of Haddington parish till 1695, when it
was annexed to Gladsmuir parish. All those chapels were founded b}' the
piety of ages, which have been long considered as superstitious by those who
do less and talk more. At the Reformation the patronage of the church
of Haddington belonged, under those grants and confirmations, to James
Stewart, the prior of St. Andrews, the bastard brother and minister of Mary
Stewart, the well-known Earl of Murray. When the Earl of Morton became
ruler of Scotland in the quick succession of regents, he acquired the vast
estates of the priory of St. Andrews, by appointing a nominal prior and taking
the property to himself. Of the corruption, which had been recently reformed
in some measure by his agency, there was nothing more corrupt than this
appropriation of the priory by the regent Morton. When this guilty noble
was executed for his participation in the murder of Darnley, the temporalities
of the prioi'y became forfeited to the king. James VI. now converted the whole
into a temporal lordship, for his cousin and favourite, Esme. Duke of Lennox ;
and his son, Ludovic, sold the patronage of the church of Haddington,
with its tithes, both pai'sonage and vicarage, in 1615, to Thomas, the first
Earl of Haddington, who obtained, from the same king in 1620, a confirmation
of his purchase ; and the Earl of Haddington, at the beginning of the 18th
century, sold that patronage, with his pi'operty in Haddington parish, to Charles,
the first Earl of Hopetoun. In this family the patronage of Haddington, which
was thus acquired, still continues. At the end of thirty years, after the Refor-
mation, the church of Haddington, the chapel of St. Martin, and the church of
Athelstaneford, were all served by one person (7?!.). This paucity of preachers,
owing to the penury of provision in the reformed church, continued till 1602.
George Grier was now ordained the minister of St. Martin's chapel, and he
was the last who ofiiciated in this ancient fane Qi). The church of Haddington
was appointed, in 1633, one of the twelve prebends of the chajiter of Edin-
burgh (o). At an episcopal visitation in 1635, it was agreed by the bishop of

{m) This fact appears from the Presbytery Eecords, which are preserved as far back as 1592.
(n) Trans. Antiq. Soo. Edin.. 67. (o) Charter of Erection.

51G AnACCOUNT [Ch. TV.—Haldingtonshire.

the diocese of Edinburgh, and the magistrates of Haddington, that a second
minister had become necessary for the church of Haddington ; and of con-
sequence, Wilham Trent was collated to this charge, when his stipend was
settled at 600 marks, payable by the magistrates of the town. They now
claimed the patronage of this second minister, whom they had thus established
and paid. But this pretension was contested in 1680 by the Earl of Hadding-
ton, the patron of the church. The College of Justice declared in favour of the
patron's right ; and this decision was afterward regarded as a precedent, which,
on an appeal to the House of Peers, was affirmed as law and right (p). [The
Abbey Church, which was i-epaired in 1811, has two charges, with 1156
communicants ; stipends, each £444. There is also St. John's Chapel of Ease,
erected in 1838. Free St. John's has 381 members ; two U. P. churches have
together 360 members ; an Episcopal Chapel (built in 1770), has 94 com-
municants. There is also the Roman Catholic Chapel of St. Mary's.]

The parish of Athelsta^ceford, whatever Gaelic etymologists may say,
derived its name, probably, from a place that owed its appellation to some
pereon. To Athelstan, the Anglo-Saxon conqueror who over-ran Lothian in
934 A.D., is attributed this name (q). Camden contradicts this probabiUty by
saying that an English commander, called Athelstan, was killed here in 815 a.d. ;
and Buchanan romances about a Danish chief who was slain here by the Picts;
but neither Camden nor Buchanan assigns any proof for his assertion (r).
The village and church of Athelstaneford stand on a road, near a passage over
a rivulet, which is called Cogtal-burn. The name of the ford on this stream
was very early vulgarized to Elstanford, and in the Compositio, 1245, it was
called with the Saxon aspirate Ilelstanfoord (s). The countess Ada appears
to have possessed the manor of Athelstaneford as a part of her jointure. When
she founded the convent of nuns near Haddington, she gi'anted to it the church
of Athelstaneford, with the tithes and other ecclesiastical dues belonging to the

(p) Trans. Soc. Antlq. Edin., 67. For more recent particulars of this parish, see the Stat. Acco. of
it, and the Tabular State annexed. [Also Martina's Burgh of Haddington. 1883, and Miller's Lamp of
Lothian, 1844.]

(q) Sax. Chron., Ill ; Florence, 349 : Malmsbury, f. 27 : Whit. Cathedral of Cornwall, 6. A Gaelic
etymologist would state his sentiments thus : There is at the place a rivulet, which is passed by a. ford,
that conducts the passenger to the village by a narrow, deep, and stony path. Li the Gaelic speech,
Ath-ail means a Stoneford; whence may be inferred that the original name is a redundant pleonasm.
The Saxon settlers, finding the Ath-ail already in existence, superadded Stoneford, which is merely a
translation of the Gaelic appellation.

(r) In a charter of David I., Diplom. Scotia, pi. xiv., Ethelstan is a witness ; and it is unnecessary,
by refinement, to search in the obscurities of elder times for what may be found in recent charters.
[See also Skene's Celtic Scotland, v. 1, p. 299.]

(s) Li the 12th century there was a place in Teviotdale named Elstane's-halch. Chart. Mel., 25.

Sect. YUl.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N . 517

same church {t). The Hherality of Ada was confirmed by several bishops of
St. Andrews. The church of Athelstaneford, with its pertinents, continued to
belong to the nuns of Haddington till the Reformation changed the ancient
regimen. As the parish of Athelstanford was of old but small, the church was
not of great value. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Elstaneford was rated
only at ten mai'ks. In 1G74, this parish was greatly enlarged by annexations
from the parishes of Haddington and of Prestonkirk [u). A new church and
manse were built in the enlarged parish of Athelstanford, about 1784 (,c). [The
present parish church was erected in 18G8. Communicants, 300; stipend, £342.]
The parish of North-Berwick derived its name from the town ; and the
village obtained its Saxon appellation from the same source, as the Berwick-
upon-Tweed, which, in the charters of the 14th, 13th, and 12th centuries, is
distinguished as South-Berwick, while the more northern town was usually
called North- Beriviclc. In those charters, and in the Northumbrian topography,
the common orthography of the name is 5ar-wick, or Barewick, — the bare, or
naked village or castle ; the only difficulty being to discover whether the
Saxon ivic was first applied, in fact, to a castle or a village. The probability is,
that it was to the village, before any castle existed on the site of North-Ber-
wick, which stands on the naked shore of the Forth; being a small, narrow pro-
montory projecting from the town into the firth. Before the reign of David I.,
a church and parish existed here, from a period of such obscurity as not to
be easily penetrated. Under that monarch, the manor of North-Berwick
belonged to Duncan, the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154. He founded here,
as we have seen, a convent for Cistercian nuns, to whom he granted the church
of North-Berwick, with its tithes and pertinents. The church of North-
Berwick was dedicated to St. Andrew ; and there was an altar in it which was
erected to the Virgin Mary (y). This church seems to have been of consider-
able value. It was valued in the ancient Taxatio at GO marks. It remained

(t) After Ada's death, in 1178, the manor of Athelstaneford wa-s granted by her son, William the
Lion, to John de Montfort, who, as dominus de Elstaneford, granted to the monks of Newbotle a
stone of wax yearly. Chart. Newbotle, 216. The lands of Elstaneford, as they were forfeited in the
succession war, were granted by Robert I. to Richard Ilereis. Roberts. Index, 1 1 . The same lands
appear to have again fallen to Robert III., who granted them to John Dolas. lb., 141.

{u) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 41 ; Stat. Ace, x., 169,

(j-) Id. For other particulars of this parish, see the Stat. Acco., x., 161, and the Tabular State
annexed.

{u) -A-gnes Fawlaw, the wife of Robert Lauder of the Bass, with the consent of her husband, granted
an annuity of 10 marks from a tenement in Edinburgh, and five marks from a tenement in Leith, for
supporting a chaplain to oflSciate at the Virgin Mary's altar in St. Andrew's Kirk at North Berwick :
and this grant of the pious Agnes was oonfii-med by Jame; IV. in 1491. MS. Donations, 41.
4 , 3 W

518 An ACCOUNT ICh. IV.— Haddingtonshire.

in the patronage of the nuns of North-Berwick till the Reformation swept such
establishments away. Meantime, the manor of North-Berwick changed its
lords in some measure with the changes of the times. It continued in the
ancient family of Fife till the accession of Robert II., the first of the Stewarts.
Isabel, Countess of Fife, the last of her race, resigned this manor to Robei-t
Duke of Albany, who seems to have transferred it to William Earl Douglas.
On the forfeiture of James Earl of Douglas in 1455, this manor was gi-anted
with most of his forfeiture to his heir-male George Earl of Angus, and in
this family it long continued with Tantallon castle, the seat of their power, and
the safeguard of their crimes. There is an act of the parliament, 1597, "anent
cei'tain kii-ks of North-Berwick" (ij). The site of the Cistercian nunneiy, with
much of the property belonging to it, were granted by James VI. to Alexander
Home of North-Berwick. But whether he acquired the advowson of the parish
church is uncei'tain, as his family failed, and the property of it was transferred
to other owners. A ratification, indeed, was passed in the parliament of 1640,
to Sir William Dick, of his right to the lands and tithes of North-Berwick
barony (2). The patronage of the parish church of North-Berwick with the
site of the nunnery and the lands that belonged to it were afterward acquired
by Hew Dalrymple, who became president of the College of Justice in 1698,
and purchased from the Marquis of Douglas, the representative of the Earls of
Angus, the i-emainder of the manor of North-Berwick, which Avas now called
Tantallon, from the castle. After all those transmissions, the jaroperty of the
whole now belongs to Sir Hew Dalrymple of North-Berwick (a). [The present
parish church was erected in 1882. Communicants, 581 : stijjend £511. A
Free Church erected in 1844 has 163 members. A U.P. Church (1872) has 223
members. St. Baldred's Episcopal Chapel (1859-63) has 60 communicants.
There is also a Roman Catholic Chapel erected in 1879.]

The ancient name of Dirlton parish was Golyn ; and the old church stood
at the village of Gullane till the year 1612, when it was removed to Dirlton
by act of Parliament. Golyn derives its name from the British Go-li/n, signifying
a little lake; and in fact, there is still a pond here within the village of Gullane.
The church of Gullane, which was dedicated to St. Andrews, is veiy ancient.
Yet the epoch of St. Andrew's patronage is only the ninth century ; and from
this circumstance we may infer how old the numei'ous chui'ches are in this
shire, which were dedicated to the renowned protector of the Scottish people.
The Cistercian nuns whom David I. brought to South-Berwick appear to have
acquired a right to some of the tithes and other ecclesiastical dues of the church

(i/) Unprinted Act, 15 th Pari. James VI. (z) Unprinted Act, 2nd Pari. Charles I.

(a) For other paiiiculars, the curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco. and the Tabular State
subjoined. [Also Terrier's North Berwick, 1871.]

Sect. YIIL— Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorn.'] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 519

of Gull;! tie (Z>). The Anglo-Norman family of De Vallibus obtained a grant,
during the 12th century, of the manors of Gullane and Dirlton, with a part of
the lands of Fenton, which formed a great portion of this parish. During the
reign of William the Lion, William de Vans granted to the church of Gullane
the meadow that was adjacent to the church (c). He soon after, however,
transferred to the monks gt Dryburgh the church of Gullane, with its tithes
and other pertinents, reserving the right of his son, William de Vaus, to the
rectory of Gullane during his life (d). This grant was confirmed by the
diocesan, and by the Pope's legate in Scotland (e). In the ancient Taxatio,
the church of Gullane was rated at not less than 80 marks. After the death of
William de Vallibus, the rector of Gullane, during the reign of Alexander II.
a vicar was appointed by the monks of Dryburgh to serve the cure. In 12G8,
there was assigned to the vicar of Gullane a stipend of 12 marks {f). In Bagi-
mont's Roll, the vicarage of Gullane was rated at £4. In this parish there
were of old no fewer than thi"ee chapels which were subordinate to the church.
As early as the reign of William there was a chapel which was dedicated to
St. Nicolas, on Fidra Isle, near the shore of Elbotle, and the ruins whereof
still remain ((/). In the 12th century, the laird of Congalton founded a chapel
for the use of his family and people. Disputes thereupon arose with the rector
of Gullane ; and this controversy was settled, in 1224, to the satisfaction of both
parties, by William, bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan (Ji). During the reign
of Alexander III., Alexander de Vallibus founded a chapel at Dirlton in honour
of All Saints, engaging that this chapel should not derogate from the rights of
the mother church of Gullane [i). Under James HI., an altar was dedicated to
the Trinity in this church, by Sir Andrew Congalton, the patronage of which
was given to the lord of the manor of Congalton {k). After the Reformation had
swept away such establishments, James VI. seems to have given the advowson

(J) The nuns of Berwick made a composition with the rector of the church of Gullane, which left
him three-fifths of the disputed property. Chart. Dryb., 28.

(e) lb., 19-21. The grant of Vaus was confirmed by his successors in the manor during the reigns
of Alexander II. and Alexander III. lb., 18-182. The monks of Dryburgh, after all those con-
firmations, acquired from the nuns of South Berwick the rights which they had obtained in the
revenues of the church of Gullane. lb., 27.

(/) lb., 14. {g) lb., 18-185.

(Ji) Id. The place where it stood is still called Chapel.

(i) Chart. Dryb., 183-4. A stone of wax yearly was also granted to the church of Gullane by the
same family, with two crofts, at the village of the canons of Dryburgh. lb., 23-4-5.

(k) Dougl. Bar., 522.

520 An ACCOUNT Ch. lY .—Haddingtmshire.

of the churcli of Gullane to the baron of Du-lton. In 1G12, the church was
removed, under an act of parUament, from its ancient site to the village of
Dirlton, which thus gave its name to the parish (/). [The parish ch. (1661-1825)
has 412 communicants; stipend, £350. A Free church has 110 members.
There is also an Episcopal mission under North Berwick with 60 members].

The parish of Aberlady obtained its Celtic appellation from the village of
the same name, which stands at the influx of the West-PefFer into the Forth.
In ancient charters, the name was written Aberlevedi and Aberleddie {m). The
prefix is obviously the British Aher, signifying the injlux of running watei". As
the Aher is uniformly prefixed, in the topography of Scotland, to the name of
the stream whose mouth it denotes, we may easily suppose that the stream
which glides into the Forth at Aberlady was anciently called Leddie (n). At
present, the same stream is called above the West-Pefier water, and below from
the name of the adjoining shore, Luffness w^ater. To such soft-flowing streamlets,
the British people applied their term Leddie, which is peculiarly descriptive of
this stream, as well as of other rivulets that glide with the gentlest motion to
their issue. There appears to have been here in early times an establishment
of the Culdees, and Kilspindie, the place of their settlement, near the village
of Aberlady on the north-west, is supposed to have derived its name from the
Culdees ; Cil-ys-pen-du signifying in the British speech, the cell of the black-
heads; and the word is pronounced Kilyspendy. The cell of the Culdees
near Aberlady was no doubt connected with the Culdee monastery of
Dunkeld. When David I. established the bishopric of Dunkeld, he conferred
on the bishop of this diocese Kilspindie and Aberlady, with their lands adjacent,
the advowson of the churcli and its tithes and other rights (o). This con-
stituted the ecclesiastical barony of Aberlady, over which the bishops of Dunkeld

(/) Unprinted Act, 21st Pari. James VI. The same Parliament ratified the infeftment of the
lordship of Dirlton to Lord Fenton. Id. If we may believe Grose, the antiquary, who delighted in
stories, the last vicar of Gullan; was expelled by James Yl. for smoaling tobacco. Antiq. Scot., i., 71.
Grose does not tell who told him thii story. He has given a good view of the remains of the ancient
church. Id. There is little in addition to be seen in the Stat. Acco., iii., 194 ; but the Tabular State
subjoined may be inspected.

(n») Levedi is the old English form of lady,

(li) In fact, there is in Old Luce parish a stream which appears to run through a flat swamp, and is
called Lady-hum. In Kirk Oswald there is a rivulet which is called Lady-havn, and which is said " to
creep through a plain, for lialf a mile, before it enters the sea.''

(o) During the reign of William the Lion, Richard, the bishop of Dunkeld, granted to the canons of
Dryburgh a croft in the village of Aberledie ; and the bishop's donation was confirmed by the king's
charter. Chart. Dryb., 58.

Sect. YUI.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. 521

afterward obtained a regality [j)). The whole parish of Aberlady was included
in the bishopric of Dunkeld, notwithstanding its local situation in the deaneiy
of Haddington and the diocese of St. Andrews. Aberlady continued a mensal
church of the bishops of Dunkeld till the Reformation, and the spiritual
duties were performed by a vicar under the appointment of the bishop. In
Bagimont's Roll, among the churches in the diocese of Dunkeld, there is
Aherleddie in Eist-Lothian, which was rated at £5. Gavin. Douglas, the well-
known bishop of Dunkeld, who died in 1522, granted the lands of Aberlady
and Kilspindie to his half-brother, Archibald Douglas, the son of Archibald,
the Earl of Angus, who will always be remembered as the principal assassin of
the king's servants on Lauder-bridge {q). The forfeiture of Archibald Douglas
was reversed, in March 1542-3, in the first parliament of the regent Arran ;
and his son, Archibald, was restored incidentally to his father's estates of
Aberlady and Kilspindie (r). The second Archibald Douglas was succeeded
by his son Patrick, who built, in 1585, a fortalice at Kilspindie, which still
remains. The bishop of Dunkeld resigned to the king, in 1589, the chiu'ch of
Aberlady, with its teinds and pertinents, that he might convert it into a rectory,
and give the advowson to Patrick Douglas as an independency of the diocese
of Dunkeld. In pursuance of that obvious purpose, James VI. erected the whole
into a barony by the appropriate name of Aberlady (s). From the Douglases
this barony, with the patronage of the church of Aberlady, passed to the
Fletchers during the reign of Charles II. Sir Andrew Fletcher obtained from
the king a ratification of the bishop's resignation, and the king's charter was
confirmed by the parliament of 1669 [t). In 1733 the barony, with the

( jj) The parisli of Aberlady contained in after times five baronies of small extent : Aberlady, Luff-
ness, Balancrief, Gosford, and Redhouse. The greatest part of this last barony was disjoined from
Aberlady, and annexed in 1695 to the parish of Gladsmuir.

(5) Archibald, the grantee of the bishop, his brother, seems to have been a servant of James V.
during his early years ; and, marrying an opulent widow of Edinburgh, he became provost of this
town in 1526, when his nephew, the Earl of Angus, obtained possession of the king's person and
government. Pari. Rec,, 557-62. In September of the same year he was appointed treasui-er of Scot-
land, and held this office till the king, by his own enterprise, freed himself from the domination of the
Douglases, in 1528. lb., 566-73. In September, 1528, he was convicted of treason by Parliament,
and forfeited, with his two nephews, the Earl of Angus and George Douglas. Pari. Rec, 579. The
king refusing to pardon his forfeiture, he fled to France, where he died between the years 1534 and
1539. lb., 605 ; Rym., xiv., 538.

(r) Pari. Rec, 650. (.«) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 515.

{t) The Lord Gosford and other proprietors of the adjoining baronies protested against that Act in
the next session of Parliament. Unprinted Acts of 1670.

522 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV.— Haddingtonshire.

patronage of the church, was sold to -the Earl of Portmore, whose descendant
now enjojs them. In 1695 the lands of Cotts, and a great part of the estate
of Redhouse, were disjohied from Aberlady and annexed to the parish of
Gladsmuir, which was then established. Subordinate to the mother church,
there was a small chapel, the remains of which may still be traced at the north-
west corner of the church yard. The parish of Aberlady is included within the
commissariat of Dunkeld, owing to its ancient connection. The ancient
church of Aberlady, which was mean and incommodious, was replaced in 1773
by a new place of parochial worship (u). [The number of communicants is 351,
stipend, £503 ; a U.P. Church has 94 members].

The parish of Gladsmuir was formed, in 1695, by abstractions from the
neighbouring parishes of Haddington, Aberlady, and Tranent. A parish church
was then built on a ridge of moorland, which was known by the appropriate
name of Gledesmuir, which gave its singular name to the whole parish. The
glide in the Saxon, old English and Scottish languages, signified a kite (x) ;
and muir is merely the Scottish form of the English moor. As the parishes
of Haddington and Tranent contributed the largest portions to the formation
of the parish of Gladsmuir, the patronage of the new church was agreed to
belong, by turns, to the Earls of Haddington and Winton ; the former being
patron of Haddington, and the latter of Tranent. The Earl of Haddingion's right
was soon after transferred to the Earl of Hopetoun, whose grandson now enjoys
it; and the Earl of Winton's right of patronage fell to the crown, in 1715,
by forfeiture. In 1743 the Earl of Hopetoun did credit to his own sagacity by
presenting to this parish for its minister, William Robertson, who rose by his
various merits to the top of the Scottish literature, and to the head of the
Scottish church. Gladsmuir was his first pi'eferment ; and it was in the quiet
of the manse of Gladsmuir that his History of Scotland was written. Of this
work, which has contributed to his country's fame, far be it from me by slight
objections to lessen the dignity ; but of the writing of history, it may be
observed as of the giving of laws, that it is not the best which ought to be
offered to the people, but the best that the people are willing to receive.
Such a history the author would not now propose to the public, nor would
the public accept such a history from the author ; so great a change has the
cultivation of the unweeded garden of Scottish history during fifty years, made

(») Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., i., 511. For other intimations, the Statistical Account and the
Tabular State annexed may be inspected.

(x) See the Glossary to the late edition of Sir David Lindsay's Poetry, in art. Glead signifies a kite
in Yorkshire. In the days of Ray, GUwl was used for a kite in England ;is well as in Scotland. In
jElfric's Sax. Glossary, Mihus signified Glida. The Scripture word is Glede.

Sect Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 523

in the public knowledge. [The Parish Church, erected in 1850, has 526 communi-
cants. Stipend £465].

From the village of Tranent the parish took its name, and the village is
said to have acquired its appellation from a tradition which is not yet forgotten
on the opposite shore of Fife, and which supposes that a party of Danes, once
landing on that shore, were immediately repulsed by the natives, wdio exult-
ingly shouted, Tranent ! Tranent ! The mere mention of such a tradition
implies a total want of knowledge, etymological and historic. The name of
the village is significant in the speech of the first colonists on the banks of the
Forth. In the charters of the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, the name was
written Travernent. The popular name of more recent times is Tranent,
which seems to be contracted by colloquial use. Now, Trev-er-nent, in the
British speech, signifies the habitation or village on the ravine or vale.
Trenant, in the same language, signifies the habitation or village at the ravine
or vale. Both those forms of the name are equally descriptive of the situation
of Tranent on the eastern side of a deep, narrow valley or ravine, in the
bottom of which there is a brook (//). The ancient manor and parish of
Travernent appear to have been co-extensive. They comprehended as well the
present parish of Tranent, except the barony of Seton, as the present parish of
Prestonpans. Thor, the son of Swan, held the manor of Travernent during
the reign of David I. Robert de Quincy acquired the same manor soon after
the accession of William the Lion, whom he served for some time as justi-
ciar}^ At the end of the 12th century, Robert was succeeded by his son,
Seyer de Quincy, who became Earl of Winton, and died in 1219. The manor
of Tranent now passed to his son, Roger de Quincy, the Earl of Winton,
who acquired by marriage the office of constable of Scotland in 1234, and
died in 1264. By this event the manor of Tranent was inherited by his
three daughters, Margaret, who had married William de Ferrers, Ehzabeth,
who had married Alexander Cumyn the Earl of Buchan, and Elena, who
married Alan la Zouche, an English baron. The Earl of Buchan gave the
share which fell to his wife, to Alexander the Stewart of Scotland, in
exchange for the lands of Murthey, and James the Stewart, the sou of
Alexander, granted this share in 1285 to William, the son of John de
Preston. The portions of the other two daughters passed to their several sons,

{ij) There is in Cornwall a village called Trenant, which Hall explains to signify valley-town. Hall's
Paroch. Hist. Cornwall, 89, and Pryco says it signifies a dwelling on the river. Archaeologia. The
Tref. signifying a town in Davis and Richard's W. Diet., is Trev in Owen's Orthography. W. Diet.
Nant in the British as well as the Cornish, signifies a ravine or valley., a hollow which is formed by
water, a rivulet. Richard and Owen's W. Diet., and the Cambrian Re-r.. 17!).j.

524 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. lY .—Haddmgtonshire.

William de Ferrers and Alan la Zouche, who lost them by forfeiture during
the succession war, and those forfeitures were granted by Robert I. to his
nephew, Alexander de Seton, in whose family they long remained (2). The
patronage of the church of Tranent was separated from the manor before
the demise of David I. Thorald, the son of Swan, then possessing the manor
of Tranent, confirmed to the canons of Holyroodhouse the church of Tranent,
reserving the right of Walleran, the chaplain, during his life (a). On
liis death, probably Malcolm IV., in 1154, confirmed the church of Tranent
to the canons " de castello Puellarum," that is of Holyroodhouse (b). The
canons of this House enjoyed the church of Tranent, with its rights and
revenues, till the Reformation introduced very different characters. In the
ancient Taxatio, the church was rated at 65 marks, which imply that the
church was of great value. The cure was served by a vicar, who enjoyed
the small tithes. In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage of Tranent was rated at
£4 (c). In 1320 the monks of Newbotle made an agreement with Andrew,
the perpetual vicar of Tranent, about the tithes of the village and the land,
which was called the Cottarie of Preston {d). Such was the regimen which
existed in this parish till the Reformation gave it a different system. [The
present Parish Church, erected in 1801, and since then repaired, has 558 com-
municants ; stipend, £440. A Free Church of 1843 has 154 members. A U.P.
Church of 1826 has 130 members. There are also Primitive Methodist and
Roman Catholic missions.]

The ancient parish of Seton was annexed to Tranent after the Reforma-
tion. In old charters the name of the district and the appellation of the
proprietors were written Sei/ton. Seyer de Saye, an Anglo-Norman, who
obtained a grant of this manor, settling here, gave it the name of Say-ton ;
and his descendants, who became Lords Setoun and Earls of Winton,
assumed from it the surname of Seton. The church of Seton, however old,
was I'ated in the ancient Taxatio at 1 8 marks. The patronage of the church
belonged to the lords of the manor, the Setons, who were buried within its
sacred fane. As it stood near their mansion-house, this opulent race were
studious to adorn its structure and to add to its usefulness (e). In May 1544,

{z) Charters in the Eolls of Eobert I. Eoberts. Index.

(a) Sir J. Dalrymp. Col., 287. (i) Chron. St. Cnicis, in Anglia Sacra., i., 160.

(d) Chart. Newbot., 156. This was confirmed by a bull of Pope John. lb., 258. For other
notices, the reader may inspect the Statistical Account of this parish, and the Tabular State subjoined.
[Also M'Neill's Tranent, 1884.]

(e) Old Sir Eichard Alaitlaud says, in his MS. History of this family, with whom he was connected,
Catherine Sinclair, the wife of Sir William Setoun, who died at the beginning of the reign of Eobert

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorij.] 0 p N 0 E T H - B E I T A I N. 525

the English army after burning Leith came southward to Seton ; when they
saved John Knox the trouble of spoiling the oi-naments and destroying this
splendid monument of ancient piety (/). This church stood in Seton park,
and contained many monuments to the several members of this respectable
family, which at length fell a sacrifice to their mistaken principles [g). Their
noble mansion was pulled down in 1770, when a new house was erected on its
site. Within the parish of Seton at Longniddry there was a chapel, the ruins
of which are still apparent, and is popularly called John Knox's kirk.

After the Reformation, the parish of Seton was annexed to that of Tranent,
which was thus too much enlarged. But it was somewhat reduced in 1606
by making the baronies of Prestongrange and Prestonpans a new parish

III., " biggit an yle on the south side of the kirk, of fine astlar, pend it, and theikit it with stane, with
an sepulchar therein, where she lies ; and foundit an priest to serve there perpetually. This lady, in
her widowhood, dwelt, where now are the priests' chambers in Seton, [the collegiate canons] and planted.
and made all their yard, that they have, yet, at this day ; and held an gret house, and an honourable."
Her son. Sir John Setoun, who died in 1441, was buried in the aisle which his mother had built. Id.
In 1493, George, Lord Setoun, as we have seen, converted this church into a collegiate form. He died
in 1507, and was buried near the high altar of his collegiate church. Id. His son, George, Lord
Seton, " theikit the queir of the church, with stane, and repaired the same, with glaising windows ;
made the desks therein, and syllarings above the altar ; and pavementit the said queir ; and gave it
certain vestments, a compleit stand of claith of gold, and others of silk." Id. This Lord George fell
in Floddon-field, and was buried in the choir, which he had thus repaired and ornamented. Id. His
widow, Janet, the daughter of Patrick, the first Earl of Bothwell, built the north aisle of the church of
Seton, taking down the aisle which dame Catherine Sinclair had built on the south side, because the
side of it stood to the side of the church ; and she thereby made a perfect cornet and cross-Hrk, and
built the steeple to a great height. She gave this family church many ornaments. A complete stand
of purple velvet, flowered with gold, a complete stand of white Camoise velvet, flowered with gold, a
complete stand of white dameis, a complete stand of shamlet of silk, a complete stand of black double
worset, with certain other chesabils and vestments of sundry silks ; she .ilso gave to this church a
great case of silver, an euoharist of silver, a chalice over-gilt, a pendicle to the high altar of fine wove
arras, with other pendicles ; she loosed the sachristry, and made great locked almries [cupboards or
presses] therein ; she founded two prebends, and built their chambers and vaults. Thus far Sir
Eichard Maitland's MS. History of the Setoun family. It is seldom that we are supplied with such a
minute account of the ornaments belonging to a collegiate church.

(/) Sir Eichard Maitland, who lived in the neighbourhond at the time, says, that the Euflish
destroyed the castle of Seton, spoiled the kirk, took :iway the hells, organs, and all other trussable
[moveable] things, and put them in their ships, lying off in the frith, and burnt the timber-work in
the church. MS. Hist, of the Setouns.

{g) Of the collegiate church of Seton there is a good view in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 64, where it
has been mistakingly placed in Edinburghshire. [See also Billing's Antiquities, v. 4, and M'NeiU's
Tranent.]

4 3X

526 AnACCOUNT [Cli. l\ .—Haddimjtonshire.

under the name of Preston {Ji). When Charles I. in an unadvised hour erected
the bishopric of Edinburgh, he granted to the bishop the church of Tranent
with the mansion, glebe, church-lands, titlies, and other ecclesiastical dues, as
they had belonged previously to tlie abbey of Holyrood ; and the parson of
Tranent was constituted one of the prebendaries of the bishop's chapter (i).
Meantime, the Earls of Winton, who were the patrons of the old church of
Seton, obtained the patronage of the united pai-ishes of Tranent and Seton (k).
Tiie lands of Winton were, however, restored to Pencaithland parish after the
forfeiture of the Earl in 1715. In 1695, the parish of Tranent was further
diminished by the annexation of the north-east corner of it to the new parish of
Gladsmuir; and the Earl of Winton, as jDatron of Tranent, obtained the patron-
age of the newly erected jjarish of Gladsmuir. The Earl of Winton's patronages
were forfeited to the king by the attainder of the last earl [I). [The chapel of
Seton was restored by the Earl of Wemyss some years ago, and is now used as
a mausoleum.]

The parish of Prestonpans is modern. It was created in 1606 by the
parliament of Perth, by dismembering the parish of Tranent, and by endow-
ing a newly erected church in Preston (m). Yet though the church, as we

(/i) Unprinted Acts, 18 Pari., Ja. VI.

(j) Charter of Erection, 29th September, 1633. This establishment was subverted in 1611, was
restored in 1662, and was abolished for ever in 1689.

(^-) In 1681, the parliament passed an act in favour of the Earl of Winton, disjoining his lands of
Winton from the parish of Pencaithland, and annexing them to the parish of Tranent. Unprinted
Act, 1 sess., 3 pari., Car. II.

(/) For some other particulars of the parish of Tranent, see the Stat. Acco., x., 83, and the Tabular
State annexed.

(ill) The history of the erection of this new parish is given in the preamble of the act of parliament
erecting it. Unprinted Act, 18 Pari., Ja. VI. The parliament recited : That considering the
inhabitants of Preston and of Prestonpans, sometime within the parish of Tranent, cannot resort to the
kirk of Tranent, it being insufficient to contain them, they being numerous and daily increasing, and
being too far from them ; and considering that by the labour, pains, and expence of Mr. John David-
son, minister, a suflScient kirk with a manse are built in Prestonpans, and that there is a glebe provided
for the same kirk by George Hamilton of Preston, out of his own proper heritage, and that the same
Mr. John Davidson had founded in Prestonpans a school for teaching the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew
languages, and for instructing youth in virtue and learning, and that he has endowed the same with,
his heritage, and all his moveable and free goods, for a perpetual stipend to the same school : The
Estates, therefore, erected the said newly built kirk into a parish kirk, which was to be called the
parish kirk of Preston, and dismembered the same from the parish kirk of Tranent ; and they ratified
the foundation of the said school, with all the infeftments, donations, and amortizations of lands, rents,
and other revenues, which had been thus given by the laird of Preston and the late Mr. John David-
son to the ministers, serving the cure at the said newly erected kirk and the masters of the same
school, and their successors, in their several faculties.

Sect. YUl.~Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorij.} OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 527

have thus seen, was built at Prestonpans, and the parish was to be called
Preston, popular usage has over-ruled the parliament in calling this parish
Prestonpans. It comprehends the two baronies of Preston and Prestongrange,
which are commonly called the east and west baronies (n). Preston derived its
name from the Saxon P rest -tun, signifying the priest's town or habitation.
There are many places of the same name, both in North and South Britain.
Prestongrange and Prestonpans are derivations from the original name ; the
former from the grange which the monks of Newbotle settled there, as we
have seen, and the latter from the salt pans which were established on that
site (o). [The parish church was erected in 1595, and repaired in 1774.
Communicants, 478 ; stipend, £543. A Free Church erected in 1878 has 234
members.]

The parish of Pencaitland is ancient. In charters of the 12th, 13th, and
14th centuries the name of the district was written Pencathlan, Pencaithlan, and
Pencathlen ; and it is probably derived from the British Pen-caetli-lan, signify-
ing the end of the narrow plot of ground or enclosure. The church and
mansion-house of Pencaitland stand on the edge of a narrow flat or meadow^
on the northern bank of the Tyne ; and the village of West Pencaitland is
situated on the edge of a high bank on the south side of the same river.
During the reign of William the Lion the manor of Pencaitland was possessed
by Everard de Pencaithlan, who assumed a surname from his place. He pro-
bably obtained the lands of Pencaitland from William, for Everard granted
to the monks of Kelso the church of his manor of Pencaitland, with the tithes
and other rights belonging to it, in pure alms, for the salvation of his lord,
King William (^p). In the ancient Taxatio the church of Pencaitlan was rated
at 40 marks. Before the accession of Robert Bruce the church of Pencaitlan

(n) The barony of Preston, including Prestonpans, was long the property of the Hamiltons of
Preston. George Hamilton, who was the proprietor of Preston when this parish was erected,
was succeeded by Sir John Hamilton of Preston, who in 1617 obtained from James VI. a charter,
erecting Preston and Prestongrange into a burgh of barony, with the usual privileges. In 1647
Thomas Hamilton of Preston was retoured heir of entail and provision of the late John Hamilton
of Preston, " nepotis sui patris." Thomas enjoyed this biironj ior some time after the Restoration.
It was sold in 1704 by Sir William Hamilton of Preston to Doctor James Oswald, who also
purchased from him Fingalton, the family estate of the Hamiltons, in Lanarkshire. At Preston
there is the ruin of a tower, in which the Hamiltons resided. It was accidentally burnt in 1663 ;
and some years afterwards Preston House was erected, which, by the will of the late proprietor,
James Shaw, was in 1784 converted into a hospital for maintaining and educating twenty-four
boys.

(o) For other particulars, see the Stat. Acco., xvii., 61, and the Tabular Sfiite annexed.

(;?) Chart. Kelso, 307 ; and this grant was confiimed by the same king. lb., 13-387. It was also
confirmed by Roger, the bishop of St. Andrews. lb., 82.

528 An ACCOUNT ICh. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

had ceased to belong to the monks of Kelso, owing to whatever cause (q). The
manor of Pencaitland, with the lands of Nisbet, were forfeited, during the
succession war, by Thomas de Pencaitland, the descendant of Everard ; and
it was granted by Robert Bruce to Robert de Lauder for his homage and
service (r). This manor appeared soon after to belong to John de Maxwell
of Pencaitland, the younger brother of Sir Eustace Maxwell of Caerlaverock ;
but whether John acquired it by grant or by marriage cannot be easily
ascertained. He certainly granted to the monks of Dr3^burgh an annuity from
his lands of Pencaitland ; and his grant was confirmed by David II. (s). He
granted to the same monks the advowson of the parish church of Pencaitland,
with the chapel of Payston, and the church lands, tithes, and profits (t). This
grant was confirmed by Sir John Maxwell, his son, who succeeded his father in
the lands of Pencaitland, and his uncle, Sir Eustace, in the family estate of
Caerlavei'ock (u). It was also confirmed by William, the bishop of St. Andrews,
and by William, the prior, in 1343 {x) ; and it was further confirmed by
David II. in 134G {y) The church of Pencaitland, with the chapel of Pay-
ston, remained with the canons of Dryburgh till the Reformation. The cure
was served by a vicar. In Bagimont's Roll the vicarage of Pencaitland
was rated at £2 13s. 4d. After the Reformation, the lands of Paystoun, com-
prehending the hamlets of East Payston, West Payston, Payston Bank, and
Payston Mill were disjoined from the parish of Pencaitland, and annexed to

(q) It appears not among tlie churches which belonged to those monks, between the years 1309 and
1316. Chart. Kelso.

(;•) Eegist. Eob. I. Eot. Car., 55. ($) Eoberts, Index, 38.

(<) The lands of Payston, which is vulgarised to Peasetoun, upon which the chapel stood,
formed the southern extremity of the parish of Pencaitland. After the Eeformation, they were
disjoined from it, and annexed to the smaller parish of Ormiston, which adjoins Pencaitland on
the west.

(u) In his charter he calls himself the son of the late John de Maxwell, and the heir of Eustace
de Maxwell, his (John's) brother. Crawfurd's MS. Gleanings, 3G4. Douglas has mistakingly
made them the son and grandson, in place of the brother and nephew of Eustace de Maxwell,
who seems not to have had any son. Peerage, 516. During the reign of Eobert II. John
Maitland of Thirlstane held some lands in Pencaitland, under Sir Eobert Maxwell, the son of
the last John ; and Sir Eobert granted the superiority of the same lands to the canons of
Dryburgh.

(j;) The bishop's charter, which is recited in that of the prior, states that the patronage of the
church of the Pencaitland, and of the chapel of Payston, were granted to those canons by John
de Maxwell of Pencaitland, and Dominus John de Maxwell, Dominus de Maxwell. Crawfurd's
MS. Gleanings, 359.

(y) lb., 359, 364-5.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 529

Ormiston, which adjoins it on the west. In 1681 the lands of AVinton were
taken from the parish of Pencaitland and given to the parish of Tranent (a).
In 1673 died Robert Douglas, the indulged preacher of Pencaitland, who had
been minister of Edinburgh, a person of piety, judgment, and leai-ning : " No
man, it is said, contributed moi'e to the Restoration and received less benefit
from it (h). But if he had been a minister of solid judgment and good
learning he would have pushed aside the j^rejudice that prompted him to reject
the bishopric which was offered to his prudence. [The Parish Church, a six-
teenth century building, was i-estored in 1882; communicants, 301, stipend,
£309. A Free Church mission has 91 members].

The parish of Salton derived its appellation from the manor-place and
village of the same name. In ancient charters this designation was written
Saidtoun, Saidton, and Salton. As the prefix lias no descriptive meaning, the
place may be supposed to have obtained its name from some settler here of the
name of Smd, who cannot now be traced, whose tun or dwelling it may have
been (c). During the reign of David I. the manor of Salton belonged to Hugh
Morville, tlie constable, who granted the church of Salton with a carucate of
land and the tenth of the multure of the mill of Salton to Dryburgh Abbey.
The liberality of Hugh was approved by Malcolm IV., and by Richard, the son,
and successor of the constable (d). The church of Salton was rated in the
ancient Taxatio at 30 marks. Richard Morville gave the lands of Herdmanston,
which formed a part of the manor of Salton, to Henry de Saint Clair, the sheriff"
of the Morvilles (e). Henry de Saint Clair was the progenitor of the Sinclairs
of Herdmanston, who retained this estate till recent times. In the 1 otii century
John de Saint Clair erected a chapel at Herdmanston by the leave of the canons
of Dryburgli, to whom he granted two acres of land, with an indemnity that
his chapel should not injure the mother church of Salton (/). There were
other vassals of the Morevilles and their successors, the Lords of Galloway,

(a) UEprinted Act in favour of the Earl of Winton. After the forfeiture of tlie Earl's descendant
in 1715, Winton was again annexed to the parish of Pencaitland, to which it naturally
belongs.

(b) Lauchlan Shaw's MS. Hist, of the Scotican Church. See the Stat. Acco., xvii., 41, and the
Tabular Stale annexed.

(c) Sir James Dalrymple says this manor obtained its name from the family of Soiilis, as he had
seen an old charter designing it Soulis-toun. Collect., 395. Yet has this mistaken intimation misled
Lord Hailes (Annals, i., 274) and the minister of the parish. Stat. Acco., s., 251. Sir James wrote
this account of Salton from memory, which deceived him ; for various documents in succession show
that during the 12th, loth, and 14th centuries the family of Soulis never possessed Salton, which was
never called Soulistown.

{d) Chart. Dryburgh, 1-2. (e) Diplom. Scotiso, pi. 75. (/) Chart. Dryburgh, 143-

530 AnACCOUNT [Cli. V7 .—Haddingtonshire.

during the 12th and 13th centuries who made similar grants {g). The
superiority of the manor of Salton was forfeited by the descendants of the
Lords of Galloway during the succession war. In the reign of Alexander III.
a considerable part of the manor of Salton was held by WiUiam de Abernethy,
the son of Sir Patrick Abernethy of Abernethy. William supported the pre-
tensions of Bruce, to whom he became tenant in chief, by the forfeiture of
his superiors who adhered to the Baliols, and he obtained from the gratitude
of Bruce a large addition to his lands for his support. William de Abernethy
was the progenitor of a family who acquired the title of Lord Salton in
1455 (A). During the year 1488 the canons of Dryburgh pursued in Parlia-
ment Adam Bell for withholding thek tithes of Salton ; but when Bell
vouched the vicar, Dene Dewar, who had given him a lease of his ecclesiastical
dues, the Lords recommended to the abbot of Dryburgh to summon the Dene
before his spiritual judge {i). The canons of Dryburgh continued, with such
slight interruptions, to enjoy the church of Salton till the Eeformation swept
such establishments away. In 1633 when the bishopric of Edinburgh was
erected, the church of Salton with its manse, glebe, and ecclesiastical rights,
were transferred to the bishop {k). When the estate of Salton was acquu'ed
in 1643 by Sir Andrew Fletcher from Lord Abernethy, the advowson of the
church was incidentally obtained; and in 1672 the Parliament confinned to
the well-known Andrew Fletcher, at the age of nineteen, the estate of Salton
with its pertinents (/). At the Restoration the cure of Salton was served by
Patrick Scougal, the celebi'ated Bishop of Aberdeen. He was succeeded in
the parish of Salton by Gilbert Burnet, a not less famous though not a better
man, who acquired in 1665 his first preferment in the church from Sir
Robert Fletcher, the patron of Salton [m). We have now seen that eminent

{g) See the Chart, of Dryburgh, and Soltre, throughout.

(li) Williara de Abernethy of Salton granted to the canons of Dryburgh a messuage, with a
brewhouse, "in villa de Sultoun." Chart. Dryb., 191. Upon the death of Alexander, Lord Abernethy
of Salton, in 1669, without issue, his estates and title descended to his cousin, Alexander Fraser of
Philorth, the son of Margaret Abernethy, the only daughter of George Lord Salton. Crawfurd's
Peer., 435.

(i") Pari. Eec, 343-53. (Jc) Charter of Erection.

(/) Un printed Act, 3rd sess., 2nd Pari, Charles II.

{lit) When Bishop Burnet died, in 1715, aged 72, he left some legacies to the parish of Salton,
which have proved lastingly beneficial to the parishioners. He devised 20,000 marks Scots, the
interest whereof was directed to be applied to the clothing and educating of 30 children, to the
providing of them with apprentice fees, to the relieving of the indigent, and to the obtaining of a
parish library. By the judicious management of the trustees, this legacy has increased to £2,000

Sect. Ylll.—rts Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 531

men have been connected with Salton parish from the epoch of record, beginning
with the Morvilles and ending with the Fletchers, who all distinguished them-
selves by their actions, according to the prevailing sentiments of their several
ages, whether of piety or patriotism (n). [The parish church was greatly re-
novated in 1805, and has 117 communicants. Stipend £323. A Free church
for Salton and Bolton has 99 members.]

The parish of Bolton took its name from the village, and the name of the
hamlet is certainly Saxon. Bolt, in the A.-S. speech, signifies a mansion. This
term may have been applied to the manor-house ; and when a village collected
around it, according to the practice of the age, the hamlet may have been called
Bolt-town. It is possible, indeed, that a person named Bolt may have settled
here and given his own name to his settlement or tun (o). Early in the reign
of William the Lion, the rnanor of Bolton was granted by the king to William
de Vetereponte, the son of an English Baron of the same name, who was popu-
larly called Vipont. He also acquired from the same king the manors of Langton
in Berwicksliire, and Carriden in West-Lothian (^;>). William de Vetereponte
granted the church of Bolton with its lands, tithes, and pertinents, to the
canons of Holyrood ; and this gift was confirmed by a charter of William
the Lion (q). The church of Bolton I'emained in the hands of the canons of
Holyrood till the Reformation. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Bolton
was rated at the inconsiderable value of 20 marks. Robert I. confirmed all those
grants to the Viponts, and they were all confirmed to the same family by
David II. (r). Bolton passed afterward to other proprietors. In the reign of
James II., it belonged to George Lord Haliburton of Dirlton, who pledged it
to the king for a debt of of 100 marks ; and upon redeeming it, he obtained in

sterling, and the bishop's bequest has completely answered his beneficent purpose. He also bequeathed
a capital, affording a yearly interest of 150 marks Scots, for the poor of Salton parish, to be distributed
by the minister. By all those bequests, which do honour to the sense and benevolence of Bishop
Burnet, the children of Salton are well educated, and the poor properly supported. Stat. Acco., x.,
256-7. Close to the minister's manse, there is a tree which is called " Bishop Burnet's Tree."
Forrest's map of Haddingtonshire will thus prove a monument to the bishop's memory, if his good
deeds should be forgotten.

()i) The parish church and manse stand at the village of East-Salton, which, in 1792, contained 281
inhabitants. The village of East-Salton, at the same time, contained 127 inhabitants. Stat. Acco.,
X., 253, which may be inspected for other particulars ; and see the Tabular State annexed.

(o) Near Kinross there is a hamlet called Bolton, and there are in England many places of the
same name.

(])) Those manors were all confirmed to him by William the Lion, between the years 1171 and
1178.

(q) Crawfurd's MS. Copy from the Autograph. (r) Eeg. David II., lib. i., 137.

532 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. lY.— Haddingtonshire.

1459, from the same king, a confirmation of liis inheritance (s). In 1494, there
was a continued suit in parliament b}'^ Marion, the lady of Bolton, and George
Home her husband, against Patrick Earl of Bothwell, and Adam Hepburn his
brother, for detaining violently, durmg seven years, the barony of Bolton with
its pertinents. The lady produced as her right a charter from the late heir.
The earl gave in a lease from a stranger, and Bothwell, who was at that epoch
all-powerful, appears to have retained the disputed property {t). In 1526, and
1543, Bolton was in possession of a cadet of his family, by the name of Hepburn
of Bolton (it). In January 1568, John Hepburn of Bolton was executed as the
associate of the Earl of Bothwell, his chief, in the murder of Darnley (x). The
manor of Bolton, thus forfeited, was given to William Maitland, the well-known
Secretary Lethington, the author of the plot which ended in the death of
Darnley (y). It was confirmed to the Earl of Lauderdale in 1621 (z). In 1633,
the epoch of the episcopate of Edinburgh, the church of Bolton with its usual
pertinents, as they had belonged to the canons of Holyrood, were annexed to
the newly created bishopric, which was itself subverted in 1641. Such, then,
are the various revolutions of the manor and church of Bolton (a). [The
present parish church erected in 1809, has 96 communicants. Stipend £192.]

The parish of HuMBiE comprehends the ancient districts of Keith-Hundeby
and Keith-Marshall. At the epoch of record, Keith appears to have been the
ancient name of the whole district, which is intersected by a small river that
runs in a narrow bottom between steep banks. The name of Keith is obviously
derived from the British Caeth, signifying strait, confined, narrow ; and was
appropriately applied to the narrow bottom through which the riveret runs,
as well as to other places that bear the same name in Scotland from similar
circumstances (6). From David I., Hervei, the son of Warin, obtained a grant

(.s) Dougl. Peer., 322, who quotes the charter in the Pub. Archives.

(t) Pari. Eec, 446. (u) lb., 563-4.

(x) Spots., 214 ; Arnot's Crim. Trials, 9. (y) Stat. Acco., iv., 287.

{:) Unprinted Act, 23rd pari., Ja. VI., 4th August, 1621. The famous Duke of Lauderdale, while
lie acted with the insurgent covenanters, appears to have annexed the patronage of the church of
Bolton to the manor. Eichard, Earl of Lauderdale, who died about the year 1693, sold the barony of
Bolton, with the patronage of the church, and even the ancient inheritance of Lethington, to Sir
Thomas Levingston ; and Sir Thomas transferred the whole to Walter, Lord Blantyre, in whose family
the property remains.

(ffl) The curious reader will be disappointed if he look into the Stat. Acco., iv., 285, for any
additional history of this parish. He may inspect the Tidmlar State annexed.

(b) Keith, in Banffshire, stands in a ccnfned hollow on the river Isla, which runs, for a con-

SectYlll— Its Ecclesiastical Tmtori/.] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 533

of the north-west half of this district, which was called from him Keith-Hervey,
and which was afterward called Keith-Marshall. From the same king, Simon
Fraser acquired a grant of the south-east half of the same district, which was
denominated from him Keith- Symon, and which was afterward called Keith
Hundeby. As the church stood within the district of Keith-Symon, Hervey
erected a chapel in his own manor of Keith-Hervey, for the accommodation of
his tenants ; and, according to the established custom, settled an yearly tribute
to the mother church (c). Simon Fraser granted to the monks of Kelso the
church of Keith, with its pertinents and other privileges {d). During those
times Hervey de Keith, the king's marshal, had a controversy with those monks
about the tribute which he ought to pay to them for his chapel of Keith-
Hervey. This pertinacious contest was settled by Joceline, the bishop of
Glasgow, and Osbert, the abbot of Paisley, who decided that the monks ought
to receive only twenty shillings annually from the chapel and manor of Keith-
Hervey ; and this determination was confirmed by the diocesan, Richard, the
bishop of St. Andrews, who died in 1177 (e). Simon Fraser's estate was car-
ried by his daughter Eda to Hugh Lorens, her husband ; and their daughter
Eda transferred the same property to Philip de Keith, the marshal. By those
two female transmissions the whole manor of Keith was united in one family.
Philip, who died some time before the year 1220, confirmed the church of
Keith, with its pertinents, to the monks of Kelso {/). During the reign
of Alexander II. the manor of Keith -Hervey-Marshal was made a distinct
parish, with its chapel, for the seperate church, that was thenceforth to be
independent of the church of Keith-Symon, which was at length distinguished
by the name of Keith-Hundeby (g). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of
Keith-Hundeby was i-ated at 80 marks, while the church of Keith-Marshal was

^derable distance above, in a narrow ravine, between steep lianlcs. A part of the river Ericht. in
Pertbsliire, where it runs through a narrow chasm, between steep rocks, and forms a cascade, is called
the Keith.

{d) lb., 84-07. This grant was confirmed by a charier of Malcolm IV. lb., 89-37C, and by
William the Lion. lb., 13-90.

(e) lb., 94-6. The bishops Hugh and Eoger, of the same see, confirmed to the monks of Kelso the
church of Keith, with the twenty shillings as the allowance from the chapel of Keith Hervey.
lb., 82-3.

(/) lb., 86-8.

(g) The adjunct Hundeby was the name of a hamlet near the church. This appellation, which is
plainly derived from the Saxon Huadehij, the dog's dwelling, has been vulgarised to Ilaiubie. There
are a Haa-hij in Durham, and a Hun-bij by Lincolnshire.
4 3 Y

534 AnACCOUNT [Ch. lY.— Haddingtonshire.

only rated at 12 marks. When tlie monks of Kelso estimated tlieir whole
estate, during the reign of Piohert Bruce, they stated that they enjoyed the
church of Hundeby-Keith, " in rectoria," which used to he worth £20 a-year ;
and they had incidentally, the village and lands of Hundehy-Keith, which
customably rented for 10 marks a-year (/*). In Bagimont's Roll, indeed, the
rectory of Keith-Marshall was rated at £4 ; but the rectory of Keith-Hundeby
was not rated in that Roll, as it belonged to the monks of Kelso, who con-
tinued to enjoy it till the Reformation swept away such exemptions. The
patronage of the church of Keith- Marshall belonged to the descendants of Sir
Robert Keith, by the grant of Robert Bruce, till their whole property here was
sold by Wilham, Eax"l Marshal, during the perturbations of Charles I.'s reign,
which involved him and his country in inextricable difficulties. After the
Reformation, the ancient parishes of Keith-Hundeby and Keith-Marshall were
conjoined ; and the united parish has been since known by the name of
Hiimbie, the patronage of which belongs, jointly, to the King and the Earl of
Hopetoun (i). [The parish church, erected in 1800, has 208 communicants;
stipend £365. A. Free church has 57 members].

The old name of the parish of Yester was Bothans, till the Marquis of
Tweeddale built his present house, which he called Yester, the baronial name
of the extensive domains of the Giffords {k). William the Lion, granted to
Hugh de Giffbrd the lands of Yestred, who gave to the monks of Melrose a toft,
in his village of Yestred, The baronial domains of Yester lie along the vale of
a rivulet which is formed from several streamlets, which fall down from the
western declivities of the Lammermuir. In this vale or strath, on the west
bank of the water, stands Yester house, the sj)lendid seat of the Marquis of
Tweeddale ; and the locahties and the facts evince the British origin of the
name to have been Ystrad, signifying a vale or strath, in the speech of the
Ottadini settlers on the stream, which has lost its original name, in colloquial

(h) Chart. Kelso, 26-32. Sir Eobert Keith, the marshal of Eobert Bruce, granted those monks
leave to build a mill on their lands of Hundeby Keith, with permission for their work oxen, with
their carts and ploughs, to pass and repass over his manor. lb., 99.

(i) The Stat. Acco. and the Tabular State subjoined to this shire may be inspected for some other
particulars.

(i) la the ancient Taxatio there is ecclesia Bothani. In Bagimont's Roll there is Prceceptura de
Bothans ; so in the roll of St. Andrews 1547, there was, in the deanery of Dunbar, Pra:positura de
Bothans. Eeliq. Divi. Andrese. The 18th of January was the festival of Bothan, as we know from
Dempster. As late as 1521, Robert Wetherstone, the provost of Bothans, granted to a chaplain
in the parish church of Haddington several parcels of land in Mortmain. MS. Extracts from the
Records.

Sect. YllL—Tts Ecclesiastical Historij.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 635

corruptions {!). The patronage of the church has belonged to the lords of the
manor of Yestred from the 12th century to the present (m). This manor was
granted by William the Lion, to Hugh Gifford. the son of Hugh, an English
gentleman who settled in Lothian under David I. From that early age to
the present Yester has remained with his descendants. Hugh Gifford of
Tester, who lived under David IL and Robert IL, had only four daughters to
inherit his large estates ; and Johanna, the eldest, marrying Sir William Hay
of Locherwart, transferred the manor , with the patronage of the church,
to him and their conjoint posterity. Thus arose the family of Yester and
Locherwart, who obtained the titles of Lord Yester in 1488, Earl of Tweeddale
in 1646, and Marquis of Tweeddale in 1694. Sir William Hay, in 1421,
converted the church of St. Bothan Into a collegiate form, consistinsf of a
provost, six prebendai'ies, and two singing boys, who enjoyed the lands, tithes,
and other church revenues of the parish till the Reformation introduced a very
different system. The church now lost its collegiate form ; the name of
Saint Bothan was no longer reverenced, and the ancient name of Yester,
which was not understood, became again the Cambro-British name, of the
parish. A new parish church and manse were built in 1708, in a less
central place, at the village of Gifford ; and the ancient church of St. Bothan,
with its adjacent kirk-town, were resigned to the a.nnihilation of time and
chance. From the village, where the modern church stands, the parish is now
popularly called Gifford, while the legal name is Yester (?i). There was of
old, at Duncanlaw, in the north-east corner of Yester parish, a chapel, which
was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, Avhich has also been swept away by modern
improvements (o). [The parish church has 306 communicants ; stipend £455.
A Free church erected in 1880 has 154 members].

The united parish of Garvald and Barra comprehends the separate parishes
of the same names. Garvald derived its Celtic appellation from the rivulet,
which is called Garvald water, as it drains the parish, and courses by the
church and village of Garvald. Garw-ald in the British, and Garv-ald

(/) See Eichard's Welsh Diet.

(?;») The church of St. Bothan appears to have been but of middling value, for it was rated in the
ancient Taxatio at 30 marks.

(/() The village of Gifford did not exist when Pont made his map of the Lothians during the reign
of Charles I. It has since arisen on the east bank of Gifford Water, in the lower end of the parish,
and now contains more than 400 people. For other particulars, see the Stat. Acco., i., 342, and the
Tabular State annexed.

(o) Eobert III. gave to the chapel of St. Nicholas, at Duncanlaw, some lands which had
belonged to John Straton. Eoberts. Index, 145. Duncanlaw belonged to the Giffords of old.
lb., 16.

536 A N A C C 0 U N T [Oh. \Y .—Haddimjtmishive. '

[Garbh-ald] in the Gaelic, signify the rough rivulet, which is very descriptive
of a mountain torrent which floods its banks and spreads gravel over the
adjacent grounds ; and there are other streams of similar qualities in North-
Britain, which have obtained the same name of Garv-ald ; and several have
retained their ancient names in the more idiomatical form of Ald-garv. The
church of Garvald, with its pertinents, and a carucate of land adjacent, were
granted to the Cistercian nuns, which the Countess Ada settled near Haddington
during the reign of Malcolm IV. They established a grange near the church,
and fonned a village, which thus obtained the name of Nun-raw. They also
acquired the lands of Slade and Snowdoun, forming together almost the whole
parish. They obtained, in May 1359, from their diocesan, William the
bishop of St. Andrews, a confirmation of all their spiritual rights as they had
lost their title-deeds during the revolutionary war of David II. ; and the
bishop's charter was confirmed by James II., in August 1458 {p). The church
of Garvald and the greatest part of the parish remained with those opulent
nuns tiU the Reformation delivered the whole to less beneficent hands. As the
parish was not populous of old, the church was merely rated in the ancient
Taxatio at 15 marks. The name of Barra is obviously Celtic. In the Gaelic,
Bar signifies a height, a summit, and Ra' a fortlet, a strength of any kind.
The old church, mansion, and village of Barra, stand on the summit of a
ridge, which slopes to the south and north. In the British speech, Barrau,
the plural of Bar, signifies a bush, a bunch, a tuft {q). The Celtic name may
have been originally imposed by the British, and continued by the Gaelic
settlers of subsequent times, from observing the fitness of the name to the thing
signified. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Barra was rated at 25 marks,
which implies more population and improvement than those of Garvald.
William, the parson of Barra, swore fealty to Edward I. on the 29th of August
1296, and obtained a return of his rights (r). In the 12th and 13th centuries,
the patronage of the church of Barra belonged to the lords of the manor. At
the beginning of the 13th century, Thomas de Morham, who possessed both
the adjoining manors of Barra and Morham, granted to the monks of Holy-
roodhouse the patronage of the church of Barra, with the pertments. This
grant was confii-med by his heiress, Euphemia, who man-led Sir John Gifford of
Yester, and who carried the manors of Morham and Barra into the family of
Giftbrd ; and the son and heir of Euphemia, respecting her liberahty, con-

(p) MS. Monast. Scotiae, 11. (</) Owen's Diet., in vo. Bar.

(r) Prj'nne, iii., 657 ; Eym., ii., 725.

Sect. Vm.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 537

firmed her grant (s). The monks of Holyroodhouse enjoyed the patronage
and the pertinents of the church of Barra till the Reformation introduced a
difierent system, though the commendator for some time enjoyed the rights of
the church of Bai'ra without performing the duties. The church of Barra,
and all its rights, were granted to the newly erected bishopric of Edinburgh
in 1633. When this establishment fell, amidst the revolutions of subsequent
times, the Hays of Yester and Tweeddale, who represented the ancient Giffords
and Morhams, acquired the patronage of the chvu'ch of Barra. The parishes
of Garvald and Barra were united in 1702 ; and the patronage of the con-
joined churches belongs jointly to the King and the Marquis of Tweeddale, who
enjoyed the advowsons of the separate parishes. The minister was required,
by the annexation, to preach alternately in the two parish churches, till the
year 1744, when the church of Barra became quite unfit for divine service;
and the church of Garvald has been made, by reparation, to serve every purpose
of an extensive parish, though not without some inconvenience (t). [The parish
church was enlarged in 1829. Communicants, 251 ; stipend, £276. A Free
Church has 130 members.]

MoRiiAM parish, which is the smallest in Haddingtonshire, derived its name
from the Saxon Mor-ham, the dwelling on the moor. Till recent times the
parish was appropriately called Movhsim-moor. After all that improvement has
gained from the waste, enough remains to justify the ancient appellation of
Moor-ham. The church of Morham is old, and it was valued in the ancient
Taxatio at 20 marks, which imply more people and products than were
naturally to have been expected from the sterility of the soil. The rectoiy of
Morham was rated in Bagimont's Boll at £4. The patronage of the church
has always belonged to the lord of the manor. Under William the Lion, this
manor was enjoyed by a family bearing the name of Malherh, who assumed
from the lands the more known name of Morham (ii). The Morhams continued
to enjoy it throughout the 13th century {x). The fiunily of Sir Thomas
Morham ended in a female heir, Euphemia, who carried the manor and the
patronage of the church to Sir John Gifford {y). From his family the pro-
perty went, by another female transmission, to the Hays of Locherwart, and
in recent times the lands of Morham, with the patronage of the church, were
acquired by the Dalrymples of Hailes ; and they belonged to the late Sir David

(s) Sir James Dalrymple's Coll., xxsviii.

(<) For other particulars, the more curious reader may consult the Stat. Aoco., xiii., 353, and the
Tabular State subjoined. (u) Chart. Newbotle. (.r) lb., 90-113.

(y) Sir James Dalrymple's Coll., xxxviii. The ancient fortalice of Morham stood on an eminence
near the church, whereof not a vestige remains. Stat. Aeco., ii., 334.

538 An ACCOUNT [Gh. TV. —Haddingtonshire.

Daliyraple, Lord Hailes, whose daughter now enjoys them (z). [The parish
church was erected in 1724. Communicants, 87 ; stipend, £234.] Tliis much,
tlien, with regard to the several parishes in the presbytery of Haddington.
The presbytery of Dunhar will be found to comprehend eight parishes in
Haddingtonshire, and one in Berwickshire. The parish of Dunbar took its
Celtic name from the town ; and the town obtained its designation from the
fortlet on the rock, which at this place projects into the sea. Dun-har in
the British, and Dun-har in the Gaelic, signify the fort on the height, top, or
extremity ; but ought not to be rendered according to the late Lord Hailes'
translation, into the English top-cliff. The parish of Dunbar was of old the
most valuable of any in the deanery of Lothian, or indeed within the diocese
of St. Andrews. Besides the pi-esent parish, it contained the parochial districts
of Whittinghame, Stenton, and Spott, which were ancient chapelries, that
were subordinate to the mother church at Dunbar. In the ancient Taxatio
the church of Dunbar, with the chapel of Whittinghame, were valued at
180 marks, which is a greater valuation than any other church in Scotland
could bear. In this most extensive parish there were of old no fewer than six
chapels, which were all subordinate, according to the ecclesiastical system of
those times, to the mother church (a). From the earliest times of which we
have any accurate account, the Earls of Dunbar were proprietors of the whole
parish, and patrons of the parish and the subordinate chapels (6). In 1342,
Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, converted the parochial church into a collegiate fonn ;
and the eight prebends which he established were the chapelries of Whitting-
hame, Spott, Stenton, Penshiel, and Hetherwick, within this parish, with Duns
and Chirnside in Berwickshire. Soon after that establishment, several of those
chapelries, Spott, Stenton, and Hetherwick, were converted into parish churches,
independent of the mother church, yet dependent as prebends of the college.
Spott and Stenton still continue separate parishes. When Hetherwick was
made a distinct parish it was called Belton, being the name of two villages
in the vicinity of Hetherwick, as well as the estate, and the parish of Belton

(a) (1) There was a chapel at Hederwick or Belton, in the western comer of the present parish.
(2) There was a chapel at Pinkerton, in the south-ea.st of this parish. (3) There was a chapel at
Whittinghame, in the lowlands of Whittinghame, in the present parish of Whittinghame. (4) There
was a chapel at Penshiel, in the Lammermuir. (5) There was a chapel at Stenton. (6) And there
was a chapel at Spott.

(b) Adam, the parson of Dunbar, died in 1179. Chron. Melrose. On the 26th of April 1209,
Eandulph, " sacerdos de Dunbar," accepted the cure of Eccles. Id.

Sect. Yill—Ks Ecclesiastical History.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 539

comprehended the western extremity of the present parish of Dunhar. It con-
tinued a separate parish till the Reformation, when it was re-annexed to Dunbar.
In Bagimont's Roll the rectory of Dunbar was rated at £8, and the rectory of
Belton at £4. Dunbar and Belton appear as separate rectories in the
Tax-Roll of the archbishopric, 1547. The patronage of the church of
Dunbar fell to the king, with the forfeiture of the earldom of March, in January
1434-5 (c). Dui'ing the reign of James III., the earldom of Dunbar, with the
patronage of the church, were enjoyed by the traitorous Duke of Albany ; and
again fell to the king, on the forfeiture of this unworthy brother, in 1483.
The church of Dunbar ceased to be collegiate at the Refoi'mation. When the
bishojaric of Edinburgh was formed in 1633, the parson of Dunbar was con-
stituted one of its prebendaries. Andrew Wood was removed from Spott to
Dunbar soon after the Restoration; and was thence promoted, in 1G7G, to the
bishopric of the Isles, with which he held, by dispensation, the rectory of
Dunbar. In 1680 he was translated to the see of Caithness, which he ruled
till his episcopate was abolished at the Revolution of 1689 ; and he died at
Dunbar in 1695, at the venerable age of seventy-six {d). [The parish church,
erected in 1819-21, has 626 communicants; stipend, £402. A quoad sacra
church at Belhaven has 215 communicants. A Fi-ee Church has 285 members.
A XJ.P. Church has 291 members. There are also a Wesleyan Methodist
chapel, an Episcopal chapel of 1876, and a Roman Catholic chapel.]

The name of- the parish of Spot has always been written in this form, except
that it has been sometiiiies spelt Spott. Thei-e are several places of the same
name in England, as well as in Scotland. They seem all to have derived their
several names from the English Sj)ot, a particular place, a small piece of
ground. The chui'ch and hamlet of Spot stand in a confined space upon
a peninsula, between two ravines, through which run two rivulets, which unite
their streams at a little distance below. It is a sheltered, warm spot. This
church was of old a chapel of Dunbar, as we have seen. The patronage
belonged to the Earl of Dunbar and March ; and when he was attainted, in
January 1434-5, the advowson fell to the ci'owu. In Bagimont's Ptoll the
rectory of Spott was rated at £5 6s. 8d. It appears in the Tax-Roll of
St. Andrews, 1547. In September 1528, Robert Galbraith, the rector of Spott,
appeared in parliament as advocate for Queen Margaret, on the forfeiture of
the Earl of Angus (e). In 1532 he was at the head of the ten advocates who
were chosen as general procurators on the establishment of the Court of
Session (f). In 1537 he was appointed a senator of the College of Justice.
In February 1540-1 he appeared in parliament as one of the king's council (g) ;

(d) For other particulars, the curious reader may consult the Stat. Ace, v., and the Tabular State
subjoined. (e) Pari. Eec, 582. (/) Black Acts, fol. cxvi. (//) Pari. Eec, (;28.

540 AnACCOUNT [Ch. IV. —Haddmgtonshire.

and in Marcli 1544, he was assassinated by John Carketle, a burgess of
Edinburgh {h). George Home of Spott was tried for the murder of Darnley,
and afterward sat as one of the jurymen on the trial of Archibald Douglas for
the same murder. lie was soon after himself assassinated by his son-in-law,
James Douglas of Spott, according to general suspicion, and was one of the
traitorous accomplices of Francis, Earl of Bothwell, when he attempted, on the
27th of December, 1591, to seize the king and murder Maitland,the chancellor(/).
[The parish church was restored in 1848. Communicants, 110 ; stipend, £460.]

The village and parish of SxENTOiSr derive their names from the Saxon Stan-
tun, the Stone town. The minister of the place, without attempting to explain
the meaning of the name, assures us of the stoney qualities of the soil, and how
much of his parish is enclosed with the freestone, which everywhere abounds {k).
Stenton we have seen a chapel, and a prebend of Duiabar, and a rectory, the
advowson whereof devolved on the crown, by the forfeiture of the Earl of
March by James I. For several ages this village was called Petcohs [Pitcox],
from the name of a village a mile and a quarter north-east of Stenton. In
Bagimont's Roll the rectory of Petcoks is rated at £2 13s. 4d. The rectory of
Petcoks also appeal's in the Tax-Roll of St. Andrews, 1547 (?) ; but the stoney
qualities of the soil within the parish have induced the people to call this
district Stenton. [The present parish church was erected in 1829. Com-
municants, 320 ; stipend, £4G9].

The name of the parish of Whittinghame is derived, no doubt, from the Saxon
"Whit-incr-ham, the dwelling: on the white mead. There are in England several
places of the name of Whittlngham, as we may learn from the Villare, and
there are various places, called Whittington, which has nearly the same mean-
ing. The village, and church of Whittinghame, stand on the bank of Garvald
water. Whittinghame parish formed of old two chapelries, which were subordi-
nate to the church of Dunbar. The lower part of the parish was served by the

(Ji) Carketle and six accomplices were accused, in Parliament, of the cruel slaughter of Eobert
Galbraith, the rector of Spott, and one of the senators of the College of Justice. lb., 675.
He was succeeded, as rector of Spott, by James Hamilton, the natural brother of the Duke of
Chatelherault, who soon resigned this rectory, when he was- postulate to the See of Glasgow.
Keith, 173. He was followed by a son of Home of Cowdenknowes, who was rector of Spott at
the Reformation, and he was succeeded by Andrew Wood, who died bishop of Caithness, as
we have seen.

(i) Arnot's Crim. Trials, 35. The more curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco., v. 451, with
the Extracts of the Parish Records, in p. 452, and the Tabular State subjoined.

(/>■) Stat. Acco., iii., 231. There are several places in Scotland called Stenton, and several in
England named Stanton.

{i) For other particulars, see the Tabular State subjoined.

Sect. Ylll.—Iis Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-5RITAIN. 541

chapel of Whittingharae, and the higher part in the Laramermuir was served
by the chapel of Penshiel ; and these two chapels we may remember formed
two of the prebends of the collegiate church when it was settled under this form
in 1342. The Earls of March held their baronial courts at Whittinghame (m).
In 1372, George Earl of March gave in marriage with his sister Agnes to James
Douglas of Dalkeith, the manor of Whittinghame, with the patronage of the
chapel (n). When Whittinghame and Penshiel became a separate parish, the
Douglasses of Dalkeith enjoyed the patronage. In October 1564, Queen Mary
granted to James Eai'l of Morton, who repi-esented the Douglasses of Dalkeith,
all his estates with the barony of Whittinghame, with the castle and mills, and
also the advowson of the church of Whittingharae ; and the queen's grant to
that unworthy servant was ratified by parliament on the 19th of April 1567 (o).
It was In the guilty castle of Whittinghame that Morton met Bothwell to con-
cert the murder of Darnley, during the first week of December 1566 (p).
Morton was forfeited in 1581, but James VI. returned the traitor's estates to
his family, from whom Whittinghame passed to more worthy projjrietors (q).

The village of Prestonkirk derives Its name like other Prestons from Its being
the hamlet of the priest. It is very ancient, and there appeal's to have been a
church here in very early times on the northern bank of tlie Tyne. Preston
was one of the villages where Baldred preached ; and was one of the thi'ee
villages which contended for his body after his decease in the seventh cen-
tury. Baldred was long the patron of this parish, which he had dignified by
his residence (r). In the 12th century this parish was called Linton from the

()») In 1363, Patrick, Earl of Marcli, granted to Alexander de Eicklinton the half of the lands of
Spot, whicli Sir Alexander Eamsay had resigned " in plena curia nostra apud Whytincreham."
Eoberts. Index, 76.

(n) lb., 136. (o) Pari. Eec, 763.

(|>) See his confession on the scaffold to the ministers of Edinburgh in Bannatyne's Jounial,
494 ; and Crawford's Memoirs of Scotland, 2nd ed., App. 2. Morton was then just returned from
England, where he had been expatriated for the murder of E'z'.io, and was now pardoned by
the queen. Darnley was assassinated, in pursuance of that concert, on the 10th of February
1566-7.

(q) The estate of Whittinghame and the patronage of the church belongs to Hay of Drumellzier.
See the Stat. Acco., ii., 345, and the Tabular State subjoined.

(r) The tradition is that he had built the church, which was rebuilt in 1770. His statue
lay long in the church-yard, and Mr. Baron Hepburn intended to have caused it to be built into the
church wall ; but an irreverent mason broke it in pieces, during his necessary absence. Mr. Baron
Hepburn's MS. Letter to me of the 1st December 1801. In the vicinity of the very ancient
church, there is a spring of the purest water which is called St. Baldred's Well, and a pool or eddy
4 3Z

512 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV.—IIadcUngtonshire.

name of the village on the northern bank of the Tjne somewhat above
Preston (s) ; and that village derived its name from a remai'kable 2^ool which
the Tyne forms here by falling over a rock. Now, Li/u in the British and
Linn in the Gaelic signify a 2^00?. and to the Celtic term the Saxon settlers
affixed their tun to denote their dwelling at the Lin (t). The church of Linton
appears to have been of great value. In the ancient Taxatio it was valued at
TOO marks. Dunbar at 180 marks, and Haddington at 130, were only of
superior value among the churches in the deanery of Lothian. At a subsequent
period, the tenth of the rectory of Linton was rated in Bagimont's Roll at £20.
Ptichard, the parson of Linton, swore fealty to Edward I., and received a precept
in return for the restoration of his property (it). The patronage of the church
belonged to the Earls of Dunbar, who held the whole parish, and the lands
were enjoyed under them by various vassals (.»). When Earl Patrick formed
his collegiate establishment in the chiu'ch of Dunbar, he made the church of
Linton one of the prebends, and indeed the most valuable of the whole of them.
The patronage of the rectory and of the prebend fell to the king, by the for-
feiture of the earldom in January 1434-5. Linton continued the proper name
of the parish till the Reformation (y). It was even then, however, colloquially,
called Haugh, from the location of the church on a flat or haugh on the margin
of the Tyne. In June 1493, there was a suit heard in parliament by John
Ireland, the parson of Halch, against George Smethtoun (2), and Robert
Fleming, which throws some light on ancient practices. The parson com-
plained that the parties had wrongfully obstructed his servants in pasturing his

in the Tyne. that is known as St. Baldred's Whirl. Stat. Acco., si., 86. On the coast of Tj-ning-
hame, there is, as we have observed, a remarkable bason formed by the sea in a rock, which is filled
at spring tides, and is called St. Baldred's Cradle. The Honourable Mr. Baron Hepburn has informed
me, that his uncle, showing him St Baldred's Cradle, said the tradition was that it was rocked by the
winds and waves. [See Eitchie's "Churches of Saint Baldred," 1883.]

(s) Chart. Newbotle, 121.

it) There are many places of the same name in England as well as in Scotland. On the 17th of
July 1127, Blahan, the presbyter of Linton, witnessed the charter of Robert, the bishop of St.
Andi-ews, to the monks of St. Cuthbert at Coldingham. Smith's Bede, App. sx.

(«) Rym., ii., 724.

{x) Chart. Newbotle, and Roberts. Index. On the lands of Waughton, in the northern extremity of
the parish, there was previous to the Reformation, a chapel which was subordinate to the church; and
the rains of which are still obvious to the antiquarian eye.

(jl) The rectory of Linton appears in the Tax Roll of St. Andrews, 1547.

{:) Those were local names from Smethtoun, [Smeaton] in the vicinity of Preston, within this
parish.

Sect. Ylll.—Iis Ecclesiastical Ilistimj.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN 543

cattle Oil the moor of Preston wliicli he had a right to do hy reason of his hirk.
David Hepburn of Waughton appeared for liis intei-est, alleging that the moor
belonged to him in heritage. The Lords, judicially, ordered the sheriff to
summon, on a day named, thirty persons the best and worthiest of the country
as an inquest to determine hoio the said moor had stood in times bypast ; and the
Lords ordained the patron of the Halch to be called for his interest (a). This is a
very instructive proceeding in Parliament. We may remember that, by a very
ancient canon of the Scottish Church, the parson had a right to commonage over
every common in his parish ; and that canon being followed, by immemorial
custom, neither the plea of heritage nor a grant of the ci'own could over-rule
the parson's right. This proceeding, however, shows the beginning of opposi-
tion to a j^ractice that must have been very inconvenient if not unjust, and cer-
tainly impolitic. The patronage of this parish church was probably then invested
in Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, whose influence was then unbounded ; and the
patronage seems to have been immemorially annexed to the lordship of Hailes
in this parish (h). The more ancient names of this parish, Linton and Ilauch,
were superseded after the Reformation by the name of Preston-haugh, which
has also in its turn been superseded during recent times by the more appropri-
ate designation of Preston-hirk (c). [The Parish Church was enlarged in 1824 ;
communicants, 350, stijDend, £295. A Free Church has 286 membei's, and a
U.P. Church has 112 members].

The parish of Whitekirk and Tyninghajvie comprehends the ancient parishes
of Aldhame and Tyninghame, of Hamir or Whitekirk. Tyninghame derives its
name from the location of the village upon a meadoio on the northern side of
the Tyae. Tyne-ing-ham signifies, in the Saxon, the hamlet upon the meadow
on the Tyne (d). The church of Tyninghame is very ancient ; it was foiuided
in the 6th century by St. Baldred who died here in 607, after pi-eachiiig the
gospel to a confiding people, who fought for his body after his spirit had

(a) Pari. Eec, 378. No further proceedings appear in tbe Record, as the laird of Waugliton was
probably told by his lawyers that his plea was bad ; nor does the patron appear.

(l) On the 10th of December 1543, appeared in Parliament ilaister Nicol Creichton, parson of
Ilauch, and entered a protest on behalf of the bishop of Dunkeld ; but neither the bishop's rights nor
his wrongs appear on the record. The Testament of Sir Patrick Hepburn of Waughton, dated the olst
of August 1547, remains in the hands of the Honourable Mr. Baron Hepburn, who obligingly furnished
me with a copy. By it Sir Patrick " made bis eldest son, Patrick, assignee to the kirk of Ilauche
during my tales [leases] that I have of Maister Nicol Cn-ichton, now being parson oj' the Ilauche.'

(c) See the Stat. Ace, xi., 83, and the Tabular State subjoined. [The police burgh of East Linton.
in this parish, had in 1881 a population of 1042.]

(d) Ing, in the A.-S., means a meadow ; ham signifies a dwelling ; and Tyne is the British name of
the river.

544 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. IV.—ITaddinfftonshire.

fled (e). If we could believe in the genuineness of Duncan's charter to St. Cuth-
bert and his servitors, we ought to admit that four remarkable places lying
within this united parish were granted by him to St. Cuthbert (/'). Tyningham,
Audham, Scuchale, [Scougal], and Cnolle, [Kuowes], with Hetherwick and
Brocesmouth, are the places which are contained in the supposititious charter of
Duncan to St. Cuthbert. This charter has always been suspected of forgery, by
antiquaries, from the unsuitableness of its form more than from an examination
of its matter. It appears not from any document that St. Cuthbert 's monks,
who were sufficiently pertinacious, ever enjoyed or claimed the churches and
lands which Duncan is supposed to have given them, and which none of his
successors from Edgar to Robert III. ever confirmed. It may even be shown
that those churches and lands did not belong to him to give or them to
receive. At the epoch of Duncan's pretended charter, Hetherwick belonged to
Cospatrick of Dunbar, and continued in his family till the sad epoch of his
forfeiture. Brocesmouth was possessed by William Morville, and Muriel, his
spouse, who bestowed a part of this property on the monks of Kelso (g). It is
not to be believed that such a king as Duncan would give to St. Cuthbert
the lands which Malcolm Canmore had conferred on such a person as
Cospatrick, the Earl of Northiimberland, and as we never see St. Cuthbert's
servitors in possession of any of those lands it is not to be credited that
they ever enjoyed them. On the other hand the chartulary of Coldingham
evinces that the first property which was given to the monks of St. Cuthbert
in Scotland was conferred by the charters of Edgar after the demise of
Duncan, and which were confirmed by his successors, who recognised his
grants and allowed their possession. If the six places lying in Haddingtonshire,
which Duncan is supposed to have granted to the monks of St. Cuthbert, had

(e) Such is the legend ! It is pretty certain that Baldred died in 607 a.d. In 941, Anlaf, the
Dane, spoiled the church of St. Balther [Baldred], and burnt the village of Tyninghauie. Chron.
Melrose ; Hoveden, 423 ; and M. of Westminster. This is a very early notice of the kirk-town of
Tyninghame.

(_/■) Diplom. Scotise, pi. iv. The late William Eobertson, of the Eegister Office at Edinburgh, has
given a copy of this charter, with a positive opinion as to its authenticity. Index, 153. He formed
his opinion by his eye rather than his understanding ; by a view of the parchment, more than by an
examination of its contents.

((j) Chart. Kelso, 13-320. It afterward belonged to the bishop of St. Andrews. Aldhame and
Suchele also belonged to the bishops of St. Andrews. It is a fact, which the chartulary of Coldingham
testifies, that the monks of St. Cuthbert never had any other property in East Lothian than a toft in
Haddington, which William the Lion gave them, and an annuity of four pennies in Gullane, which
William de Vallibus conferred on them.

Sect. YllL—rts Ecclesiastical nistoru.\ 0 f N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N. 545

been really conveyed to them, we should have seen in the chartulary of
Coldingham the same confirmations of them, followed by possession, as we
therein perceive of the thirteen places in Berwickshire which were undoubtedly
granted by the charters of Edgar. Here then are facts .which, in addition
to other objections, evince that the charter of Duncan to St. Cuthbert is as
putative as his birth and title. The church of Tyninghame enjoyed of old the
privilege of sanctuary (/i). In the ancient Taxatio, the chui'ch of Tyninghame
was valued at 40 marks, and in Bagimont's Roll, it was rated at £1Q 13s. 4d.
William Spot, the parson of Tyninghame, swore fealty to Edward on the
2nd of September 1296, and was rewarded with the restitution of his property ({).
The manor of Tyninghame, with the pati'onage of the church, belonged to the
bishops of St. Andrews {k) ; and they were included within the regality of that
see which lay on the southern side of the Forth. During the reign of
David II., Patrick de Leuchars of Fifeshire was rector of Tyninghame, and
rose to be bishop of Brechin and chancellor of Scotland (/). Roger de
Musselburgh probably succeeded him as rector of Tyninghame {m) ; and,
Roger was again employed, during 1372, in a similar trust {n). Under
James III., George Brown, who became bishoji of Dunkeld, was rector of
Tyninghame (o), and as he joined the rebellious faction, which had promoted
hie advancement, he concurred with them in pursuing his sovereign to an

(/«) Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Inverlethan, giving to that church
the same privilege of sanctuary as T3'ninghame and Stow enjo3'ed. Chart. Kelso, 20. Tyninghame
and Stow, we may remember, were connected with the see of St. Andrews.

{%) Eym., ii.. 725.

{k) Alexander Fossard de Tyningliame, Richard le Barker de Tyninghame, and Gilbert Fitzhenry de
Tyninghame, the tenants of the bishop of St. Andrews, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on tbo
28th of August 1296. Prynne, iii., 658.

(/) He was consecrated bishop in 1 354 ; he was soon after made chancellor, an office which he held
till 1370, during the troublous administration of David II., who demised in 1371. Bishop Leuchars
was alive in 1373, but was dead in 1384. Keith, 95.

())() On the 5th of February 1366, Roger, with twenty horsemen, obtained a safe conduct to enter
Berwick, to make a payment of David's ransom. Eym., vi., 493.

(n) On the 23rd June 1372, Roger witnessed at Berwick a notorial proceeding of the Chamberlain
of Scotland, with regard to another payment of David's ransom. Pari. Rec, 127.

(o) He was the son of George Brown, the treasurer of Dundee ; he studied at St. Andrews, where
he became one of the four regents of St. Salvator's college ; he was ordained a presbyter in 1464, and
became chancellor of Aberdeen; he was by James II. sent on an ambassage to Rome in 1384, where
he was consecrated by Sistus IV., the bishop of Dunkeld.

546 AnACCOUNT [Cb. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

untimely end on Stirling-field {p). Tyninghame, witli the patronage of the
church, appear to have been conferred on St. Mary's college, which was
founded at St. Andrews, in 1552, by Archbishop Hamilton. This muniti-
cence seems not to have promoted the interest of the parish (g). Tyninghame
was for a while held by the Earl of Haddington, under the archbishop (?•) .
The earl, on the 7th of February 1628, obtained a charter, under the Great
Seal, of the lands and lordship of Tyninghame (s). Tyninghame became
the seat of this prosperous family, who, by plantation and other improve-
ments, ornamented their domain and beautified the country. Aid-ham, in the
Saxon, signifies the old dwelling or hamlet (t). The kirk -town stands on the
sea clifi" in the northern extremity of the parish. The church is probably as
ancient as the 6th century, if it were founded by Baldred, who died in 607 a.d.
This parish only contained the lands of Aid-ham and Scuchal [Scougal] ;
and those are two of the places which are certainly mentioned in the sup-
posititious charter of Duncan, yet were never enjoyed by St. Cuthbert's monks,
in pursuance of the grant. The lands of Scuchal were long possessed by the
family of Scougal, which produced some eminent men, under the bishops of
St. Andrews, who were patrons of the church of Aldham from the eai'liest
times. The lands of Aldham were held, under the archbishop of St. Andrews,
by Adam Otterburn, who was the king's advocate, from 1525 to 1537, and
was meantime appointed one of the senators of the College of Justice, till he
died about the year 1547. Both Aldham and Scougal continued with the
archbishop till the year 1630 (ii). This parish, from its paucity of people, was
of little value, and was of course only estimated in the ancient Taxatio at
six marks. William, the parson of Aldham, swore fealty to Edward I. at Ber-
wick, on the 28th of August 1296, and received in return the restitution of his
property (x). The ruins of the ancieiit church of Aldham on the sea-cliff were

(p) Pari. Eec, 318. Tlie guilty bishop died on the 14th of January 1514-15, aged 76, Innes's
MS. Chronology.

((/) On the 27th June, 1.5G5, a complaint was made to the General Assembly by the parishioners of
Tyninghame, who paid their tithes to the new college of St. Andrews, and yet had no preaching or
administration of the sacraments. Mi\ John Douglas, the rector of the university and master of the
new college, promised to satisfy the said complaints, and that the kirk should not be again troubled
with such a complaint. Keith's Hist., 544.

(r) Eeliq. Divi. And., 118. (.«) Dough Peer., 318.

{t) In England there are several places of the same name. In Suffolk there is the parish of
Oldham.

(u) Eeliq. Divi. Andreae, 120. (x) Prj-nne, iii., 663 ; Eym., ii., 724.

Sect, yill.— Its Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 547

apparent in 1770, but were soon after removed for some domestic purpose.
At Scougal, about a mile south-east of Aldhame, there was of old a chapel, the
ruins whereof still remain in proof of the piety of the Scougals.

The parish of Hamer or Whitekirk was anciently called Hamer, from the
kii'k-town. Ham-er, in the Saxon, signifies the greater ham. It may have
obtained this appellation in contradistinction to Aldhame, which stood only two
miles on the northward. The parish of Hamer was more populous than
Aldhame, though not so populous as Tyninghame. In the ancient Taxatio the
church of Hamer was valued only at 10 marks, Both the church and manor
of Hamer were granted during the 12th century, to the monks of Holyrood-
house, though by whom cannot now be ascertained. They retained both till
the Reformation. The church of Hamer, which was dedicated to the Virgin
Mary, from the whiteness of its appearance, was early called Whitekirk ; and
at length became, in the popular tradition, the name of the village and parish.
In 1356, when Edward III. invaded East-Lothian, as he was attended by
shipi^ing, the sailors entered the church of our Lady in the barony of Hamer,
and spoiled her of her ornaments. In relating this outrage, Fordun forgets not
to tell how the Virgin raised such a storm as made the sailors wish that they
had not offended her by their spoliation (y). The canons of Holyrood, who
resided here for the service of the Virgin, seem to have been unable to pre-
vent or to punish the profanity of the seamen (2). We may learn, however,
from this intimation that the monks usually officiated at those churches
which belonged to the religious houses. The church of our Lady at White-
kirk became a place of frequent pilgrimage (a). The church and lands and
barony of Auld- Hamer or Whitekirk, with all that had pertained to the canons
of Holyrood of this ancient establishment, were cast into the form of a regality,
and granted in 1633 to the bishop of Edinburgh and his successors. On the
suppression of the bishopric in 1689, the patronage of Whitekirk devolved
on the king. During the 17th century the parish of Whitekirk was augmented
by the annexation of the little parish of Aldhame ; and in 1761, to this united
parish was annexed the adjoining parish of Tyninghame. The present parish
thus comprehends the ancient scires of Tyninghame, Aldhame, and Hamer, or
Whitekirk (hi). The churches of Tyninghame and of Aldhame have been

(2/) Ford., 1. siv., c. 13-14. {z) lb., ii., 355.

(a) See Hay's MS. Acco. of Religious Establishments in the Advocate's Lib., W. 2. 2.
(h) Simeon of Durham records, in 854 A.D., the parishes of Aldhame and Tyninghame as then
belonging to the bishopric of Lindisfarne. Twisden, 139.

548 AkACOOUNT [Ch. lY.—Haddingtonshwe.

demolished, and Whitekirk is now the only place of worship for the parishioners
of the three parishes conjoined (c). The patronage of this united parish belongs,
by turns, to the king in right of Whitekirk, and the Eai'l of Haddington in
virtue of Tyninghame {d). [The communicants of the Church of Scotland in
this parish number 353. The stipend is £430.]

The village of Ixnerwick derived its name from the Saxon Inner-wic, signify-
ing an interior dwelling or hamlet. While there are two villages on the shore,
Skaleraw and Thorntonloch, within this jjarish, the village of Innerwick stands
inland a mile and a quarter. To such circumstances and location it no
doubt owes its equivocal appellation. There appears not any water near the
village of Innerwick to which the Gaelic Inver could be fitly applied, and
moreover, ivic being a Saxon term either for a castle or a hamlet, and not
the name of a sti-eam, could not analogically be coupled with the Gaelic
Inver, which is indeed corrupted by colloquial use to Inner (e). In many
charters of the 12th and 13th centuries the name of this place is written
Innerwic and Ennerwic. In more modern writings it is uniformly spelt Inner-
wick, which is adopted by the minister of the parish. The extensive manor of
Innerwick was granted by David I. to Walter, the son of Alan, the first
>S^eifa?'<, and David's grant was confirmed by Malcolm IV. in 1157. Various
English vassals settled within the manor of Innerwick (/). His descendants
enjoyed the superiority of this manor even down to recent times. Walter, the
son of Alan, granted to his favourite monks of Paisley, at the epoch of theii-
establishment, the church of Innerwick with its pertinents, a carucate of
land between the church and the sea, with the mill of Innerwick {g). Mal-
colm IV. confirmed this foundation charter (/i). The church of Innerwick was

(c) The ancient cliurch of Tyninghame stood a quarter of a mile below the village, on the northern
side of the Tj'ne, in a beautiful field, which has a gentle slope to the water's edge, whence the church
was distant 300 yards. MS. Eelation of the Rev. Dr. Carfrae of Dunbar.

(cZ) The curious reader will find little addition to the curious detail above, in the Stat. Acco., xvii.,
574 ; yet some important facts will be found in the Tabular State subjoined. [See also Ritchie's
Churches of St. Baldred.]

(«) In, saith Somner, iii, intra, intus, in, within, inwardly. In the Saxon, in is a very frequent
prefix. See Somner : Er, he adds, " Terminatio comparativorum apud Anglo-Saxones ; ut est,
superlativorum." Thus in-er, among the Anglo-Saxons, means more than within. Neither Bailey
nor Johnson has sufficiently adverted to this exposition of Somner.

(/) Caledonia, i., 576-7 ; Chart. Paisley and Kelso. (g) Chart. Paisley, 7-9.

(/() lb., 8. William the Lion confirmed it. lb., 10 ; and Alan, the son of Walter, added his con-
firmation, lb., 35. It was confirmed by Richard, the bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan, who
allowed the monks to enjoy the church of Innerwick to their proper use. lb., 14 ; and to all those
confirmations Pope Alexander III. added two bulls of recognition. lb., 11-12.

Sect. VIIL— /<s Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 540

not very rich. It was valued in the ancient Taxatio at only 30 marks. The
cure was served by a vicar, who was appointed by the monks. William, who
ruled the see of St. Andrews from 1202 to 1233, confirmed to the monks of
Paisley their church of Innerwick, with the pertinents, to their proper use ;
and by his episcopal authority he ordained that the vicar should have the
altarages with some land on the western side of the cemetery, rendering yeai'ly
to the monks seven marks of money as a pension {i). The vicar, in fact,
enjoyed a messuage and garden near the burying-ground, and an acre of
ground on its northern side (k). In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage was rated
at £3 6s. 8d. (/). Thomas de ?Fulcon, the vicai", swore fealty to Edward I. at
Berwick on the 28th of August 1296 (??i) ; and no doubt obtained a restoration
of his rights. Of old, there was within this 2:)arish a chapel dedicated to
St. Dennis, the ruins whereof are still standing on a small promontory in the
northern corner of this maritime parish. The monks of Paisley continued to
enjoy the church of Innerwick, till the Reformation introduced here a very
different system. In the meantime, the manor of Innerwick was held by
various vassals under the Stewart. The monks of Kelso obtained from that
beneficent race, some lands and pastures within this manor (u). The second
Walter, the Stewart, gave them liberty to erect a mill on their lands, within
his manor ; and he renounced to them an annuity of twenty shillings and two
pairs of boots, which they were wont to pay him for the fee-firm of certain
pastures within the manor of Innerwick (o). A remarkable change at length
arrived. The barony, and indeed the whole possessions of the Stewart of
Scotland were erected by Ptobert III. into a free regality, on the 10th of
December 1404, as a principality for the eldest son of the Scottish kings (^:>).
When Renfrew became a separate shire, the barony of Innerwick was annexed
to it, as it was part of the stewartry, though it was actually situated within
East-Lothian (j). Sir Peter Wedderburn of Gosford, who became a senator

{i) Chart. Paisley, 15. {k) lb., 48.

(/) Honorhis III. added liis confirmation of tlie cliurcli and its pertinents, -with a carucate of land,
common of pasture within the manor, and the mill of Innerwick. lb., 149. Honorius died in 1227.
The monks also enjoyed the necessary accommodation for collecting their tithes. lb., 48. In 1247,
the monks obtained from David, the bishop of St. Andrews, and from John, the prior, a confirmation
of the church of Innerwick, with all that belonged to it. lb., 17-18.

(m) Prynne, iii., 658. (n) Chart. Kelso, 247-60. (o) lb., 246.

{p) MS. Monast. Scotise ; Carmichael's Tracts ; Casus Principis.

(5) Between the years 1661 and 1G69, Charles II., as Stewart of Scotland, granted many charters
4 4 A

550 ■ fi I A T A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. IV.—ffaddington^hire.

of the College of Justice in 1668, obtained, in February 1670, to him and his
heirs of entail, a grant of the rectory nnd vicarage-tithes of Innerwick. In
July 1670, he obtained a grant to him and his heirs of entail, of the barony of
Thornton, in the parish of Innerwick, and in January 1671, he obtained the
barony itself of Innerwick (r). Some other changes seem to have taken place
in the barony of Innerwick, as the patronage of the church belongs to a differ-
ent family (s). [The parish church was erected in 1784. Communicants 240.
Stipend £450. A Free Church has 80 members.]

The name of the parish of Oldhamstocks is derived from the name of the
kirk-town, and the ancient appellation of tlie village was usually written in
charters, Aldhamstoc, and Aldhaivstok (t). These forms of the word are
obviously derived from the Saxon Aldhavi, the old habitation, and Stoe, a
place (u). Though OWhamstocks be the modern spelling, the popular name is
Aldhamstoks. The final first appeared in the 16th century. The village
and church stand upon the high bank of a rivulet, which is called at this
place the Dean burn, though below it is named the Dunglass burn. The
church of Oldhamstocks is ancient (x). In the ancient Taxatio it was rated at
the high value of 60 marks. In Bagimont's Roll, it was rated at £10. This
church never belonged to any monastery. The patronage of the rectory seems
to have continued with the lord of the manor, who cannot be easily traced on so
doubtful a frontier. Oldhamstocks appears not among the manors or baronies
of Haddington constabulary, in the Tax-Roll of 1613, and from this circum-
stance we may infer that it had been long merged in the barony of Dunglass.
After various successions, the patronage of the church of Oldhamstocks became
invested in Hunter of Thurston. On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas de

to the vassals of the stewartry living upon the manor of Innerwick ; and their lands are described as
lying in the constabulary of Haddington and sheriffdom of Edinburgh, but by annexation, within the
sheriffwick of Eenfrew. MS. Collection of Charters.
>' {f) Douglas's Baron., 283, which quotes the charters in the Pub. Archives.

■^^'•'(«) The inquisitive reader will gain vei-y little additional information as to this parish from the
iStat. Aceo., i., 121 ; but the Tabular State subjoined supplies some other notices.
(t) Chart. Coldingham.

(«) The Saxon Stoc, which means the same as Stoiv, a place, appears in the names of many places
in England. In Spelman's Villare, there are twenty places named Stoke, and many compounds, as
Stoke-hxsxj, Basing-«io^e, <Stoi«-pogis, /Sto^e-Severn, etc.

(x) On the 17th of July 1127, Aldulph, the presbjier of Aldehamstoc, witnessed a charter of
Eobert, the bishop of St. Andrews, to the monks of St. Cuthbert, at Coldingham. Smith's Bede,
Appx. XX.

Sect. VIII.— /<s Ecclesiastical History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 551

Hunsingour, the parson of Oldhamstocks, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick,
and was thereupon restored to his rectory {y). The subsequent history of this
parish is obscure. It is recorded, as an existing rectory, in the Archbishop's
Eoll of 1547. Thomas Hepburn, the parson of Oldhamstocks, was admitted
master of requests to Queen Mary, on the 7th of May 1557, two days after her
inauspicious marriage with Bothwell (z). A detached part of the parish of
Oldhamstocks, consisting of the lands of Butterdean, and lying on the northern
side of the Eye water, is in Berwickshire (a). Thus much, then, with regard to
the several parishes in the presbyteiy of Dunbar. [The parish church has 120
communicants ; stipend £409].

The parish of Ormiston is comprehended within the presbytery of Dalkeith.
This parish derives its name from the kirk-town, which itself obtained its well-
known appellation from some Saxon settler here, whose tun or dwelling it
became. Orme was a common name during the 11th and 12th centuries, as
we know from the chartularies ; but it is in vain to attempt the ascertaining of
Orme, who actually gave his name to this hamlet. The church was dedicated
to St. Giles, and it was granted, with its pei'tinents, to the hospital of Soltre,
which was founded, as we have seen, by Malcolm IV. William the bishop of
St. Andrews, in the 13th century, confirmed to the master and brothers of
Soltre, the church of St. Giles at Ormiston, with its revenues, to their proper
use {&). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Ormiston w^as valued only at
12 marks. Mary of Guelder, the widowed queen of James II., when she founded
the Trinity College at Edinburgh, in March 1462, annexed to it all the
churches with their rights which belonged to the hospital of Soltre. She now
assigned the revenues of the church of Ormiston, in four equal shares, to the
prebendaries of Ormiston, Gilestoun, Hill, and Newlands, belonging to her
college. This foundation of Mary of Guelder was confirmed, in April 1462,
by James bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan (c). The regent Murray intro-
duced a less useful regimen. In 1567, he gave the Trinity church, with its
revenues, to Sir Simon Preston, the provost of Edinburgh, who conferred the
whole on the city ; and the magistrates purchased the right of Robert Pont, the
provost of this collegiate establishment, in 1587 {d). The patronage of the

(y) Prynne, iii. 662.

(z) Keith's Hist. 387. On the 18th of August 1568, Thomas Hepburn, the same parson, with
others, were prosecuted in Parliament for aiding the queen in making her escape from Lochleven
castle, and were, on the subsequent day, convicted of treason. Pari. Eec. 806-7-12.
. (a) See the Tabular State subjoined. {b) Chart. Soltre, 5.

552 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. TV.—HaddingtonsJttre.

church of Ormiston was meantime acquh-ed by Cockburn, the lord of the manor,
who certainly enjoyed it in after times. In 1747, John Cockburn of Ormiston,
sold his estate, with the patronage of the church, to John Earl of Hopetoun,
who now became proprietor of the whole parish (e). After the Reformation,
the parish of Ormiston was considerably enlarged by the annexation of the estate
of Peiston, which was disjoined from Pencaitland. Whether the fine village
of Ormiston, standing on the northern side of the Tyne, was ever a baronial
burgh is uncertain. In the middle of the broad street, which runs through
the town from east to west, there is a cross, of the erection whereof tradition is
silent ; but, " from its ancient appearance," saith the minister, " it is evidently a
relic of 2^'^P^^^y {/) >" ^^^ from this intimation we may infer that the
inhabitants are better farmers than antiquaries (g). [The present Parish Church
was erected in 1856. Communicants 240; stipend £340. A Free Chui'ch has
95 members].

SouTRA and Fala make but one united parish ; the first lying in Haddington,
and the latter in Edinburghshire, and both forming a part of the presbytery
of Dalkeith. The church and hamlet of Soutra stand on a very conspicuous
site on the summit of Soutra hill, which separates Lothian from Lauderdale,
and sends its rivulets in opposite directions to the north and south. This
hamlet, which was so long the active scene of charity, commands a most ex-
tensive prospect ; a natural circumstance this, whence it obviously derived its
descriptive name from the language of the British people : Swl-tre, — signifying
in the Cambro-British language prospect-toion (h). Here was an hospital
established by Malcolm IV., as we have seen, to which was annexed a chapel ;
and when this district was formed into a parish, the chapel was declared to be
the parish church. This parish church does not appear in the ancient Taxatio,
as it ]:)elonged to the master and brothers of this charitable foundation. Thus
it continued till Mary of Guelder, in her widowhood, established, in 1462, her
collegiate church near Edinburgh, as we have seen ; and the churches and
lands belonging to the hospital of Soltre were perverted to a very different

(e) Stat. Acco. iv. 171.

(/) It is obviously the market-cross of a prosperous town in the midst of an agricultural country.
The marl-et-cross was an object of grant, in former times, with respect to policy more than to
religion.

{g) Of Ormiston, was Mr. Andrew Wight, the son of a very intelligent farmer, who was employed
in 1773, by the trustees for the forfeited estates, to make the Agricultural Surveys, which were printed
in 1778, and the following years.

{h) See Owen's Diet, in vo. swl, a prospect. Tref or tre signifies a homestead, a hamlet. In the
charters of the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries the name of this place is written Soltre.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical. Ilistonj.] 0 F N 0 E T H - B E I T A I N. 553

purpose. The church of Soltre was now served by a vicar (/). Other perver-
sions followed. At length the Regent Murray gave the Trinity Church, with
its pertinents, to the Provost of Edinburgh, who assigned the whole to the cor-
poration ; and in this manner did the city acquire the patronage of the church
of Soutra, with the property of the most part of the paris;h {k). It was
afterward annexed to Fala, and from the period of the annexation the
magistrates of Edinburgh and Sir John Dalrymple became the patrons, by
turns, of the united parish (/). [The Parish Church has 138 communicants;
stipend, £213. A U.P. Church has 106 members].

Thus much, then, with respect to the twenty-four parishes lying within the
shire of Haddington. To the foregoing notices is immediately subjoined a
Tabular State, as an useful supplement, which will, perhaps, be found
both interesting in its facts and useful in its information. In making up the
amount of the stipends of those several parishes the grain has been valued : the
wheat at £1 5s. 9d. per boll; the barley at 19s. 4d. ; the oats at 14s. 9d. ;
the pease at 14s. 6d. per boll; and the oatmeal at 16s. 8d. per boll of eight
stone ; being an average of the fiar prices of Haddington for the seven years
ending in 1795, taking the medium of the three qualities of the grain (»»).
The stipends of mostly all the parishes in this shire have been augmented
during recent times, when the prices of necessaries became higher and the
value of money grew less (n).

()') In 1467, John Heriot, the vicar of Soutra, appears as a witness in several charters. Spottis-
wood's Acco. of Eel. Houses, 536. In October 1479, on hearing a cause in Parliament, the Lords
directed Eolly Lermonth and others to prove that Schir John Herriot, the vicar of Soutra, had power
from Schir Edward of Bunkle, the provost of the Trinity College, beside Edinburgh, to lease the
tithes of Fawnys. Pari. Eec, 257.

(k) See Maitland's Edinburgh, 210-12.

(/) The united parish is four miles long and four miles broad ; is served by one minister, whose
stipend in 1755 was £68 2s. 9d., and in 1798, £77 ISs. ; and the number of its parishioners in 1755
was 312 ; in 1791, 372 ; and in 1801, 354.

(?») The allowance for communion elements and the value of the glebes arc included, but not the
value of the manses and office houses. The boll of barley and oats in Haddingtonshire is 6 bushels,
9 pints, 4.9 cubic inches, English standard measure, which is about 6 pints more than the Linlithgow
boll. The boll of wheat and pease contains 4 bushels, 1 3 pints, 9.4 cubic inches, English standard
measure, being nearly 3 per cent, above the Scottish standard measure.

(n) The parishes, the stipends whereof have been thus augmented, are : Haddington, Athelstanoford,
Aberlady, Gladsmuir, Pencaitland, Salton, Bolton, Humble, Tester, Garvald and Barra, Dunbar, Spott,
Slenton, Whittinghame, Prestonkirk, Innerwick, and Oldhamstocks.

554

An account

Ch. rV. — Haddingtonshire.

The Tabulab State.

Parishes.

Extent

in
Acres.

Inhabitants.

■g
1755. 1801. 1881. H

Churches.

&. D H

Stipends.
1755. V,

98.

Past Patrons.

Valuation.
1887-88.

£ S. D.

Haddington, ■

12,113

3,975 4,049

5,660 i

100
66

13
2

4
2

202
171

10
9

9
4

The Earl of Hopetoon.

21,667 3 9

Athelstaneford,

5,080i

691 897

762 1

—

177

Kiuloch of Gilmerton.

9,646 5 0

North Berwick,

5,372|

1,412 1,583

2,686 1

160 14

Dalrjmiple of North Berwick.

16,083 2 5

Dirieton, -

10,7981

1,700 1,115

1,506 1

—

106

215

Nisbet of Dirieton.

14,605 U 3

Aberlad)',

4,928

739 875

1,000 1

—

168

The Earl of Wemyss.

9,563 U 0

Gladsmuir,

7, 165 J

1,415 1,470

1,747 1

—

164

The King and the Earl of Hopetoun.

13,651 3 2

Tranent, •

6,176i

2,459 3,046

5,198 )

—

153

The King.

23,815 7 3

Prestonpans, -
Cockenzie, -

j 1,429 J

1,596 1,964

2,573 1

1
1

—

116

191

The Earl of Hyndford.

10,747 3 5

Pencaitland, -

5,075^

910 925

1,107 1

—

178 18

Hamilton of Pencaitland.

7,506 15 2

Salton, -

3,8111

761 768

575

—

155

Fletcher of Salton.

5,538 6 8

Bolton, -

3,1064

359 252

337 ]

—

124

Lord Blantyre.

3,701 13 6

Humbie, -

S,797i

570 785

907 1

—

141

0 10

The King and the Earl of Hopetoun.

8,625 3 0

Yester, -

S,847i

1,091 929

924 1

—

153

The Marquis of Tweeddale.

8,349 17 10

Garvald, -

13,442

774 749

758 1

—

67 13

152

The King and the Marquis of Tweed
dale.

8,349 18 0

Morham, •

2,0S7i

245 254

209 ]

—

137

Dalrymple of Hailes.

2,859 15 0

Danbar, •
Belhaven,

8,803

3,281 3,951

5,393 j

U
->

223

The Duke of Koxburgh.

21,013 5 6

Spott,

7,582|

727 502

579 ]

—

165

Hay of Spott

6,041 7 0

Stenton, •

4,8181

631 620

594

—

121

Nisbet of Dirieton.

6,147 3 0

Whittinghame,

15,595

714 658

639 1

—

128

Hay of Drumellier.

7,158 1 4

Prestonkirk, -

7,088J

1,318 1,471

1,929

I 1

—

185

Dalrymple of Hailes.

15,865 18 0

■Whitekirk,

7,153i

968 925

1,051 1

I —

—

123

155

The King and the Earl of Haddington

10,555 2 2

Innerwick,

13,424i

941 846

777

—

169

Nisbet of Dirieton.

11,078 12 0

Oldhamstocks,

1,419S

504 466

568

I —

—

123

Hunter of Thurston.

4,950 1 8

Ormiston,

3,443i

810 766

1,026

1 1

—

180 12

The Earl of Hopetoun.

6,875 6 5

Totals,

3 15

Total

with Burghs and Bailways,

£318,350 14 0

Bed. I.— Its Name.] Of N OETH-BEIT AIN . 555

i-'y

CHAP V.
Of JSdinburghshire.

§ 1. Of its Hame.l THIS county obviously derived its appellation from
the city of Edinburgh, the chief town of the shire, the metropolis of the king-
dom. The name of the capital of North-Britain as it has puzzled all the
antiquaries, has been proposed as an appropriate theme for scholastic disserta-
tion. Meantime, it is certain, that the toivn derived its name from the castle,
rather than the castle from the town, in whatever language they may be deno-
minated. What appellation the British settlers gave to the rock, the Din of
the first people, the Burgh of the Saxon intruders is not quite clear. Aneurin
the Ottadinian poet, who wrote during the sixth century, speaks of Dinas Eidyn,
the city of Eidyn ; but those poetical expressions must have been applied to
some southern city on the Eden river, which was more familiar to Aneurin,
who, as he had shared in the unsuccessful conflicts of those times, knew the
localities of the affecting scenes. The ancient Triads of the British people notice
Caer-Eidyn and Z)i?ias-Eidyn ; yet, is it probable, that the Triads only copied
the prior names of the place, and the anterior notice of the thing, from Aneurin.
As it is certain that the Romans never had a post on the remarkable site of
Edinburgh, it is equally obvious that they never gave it a name, however much
conjecture has tortured the expression and the purpose of Ptolomy (a). The
oldest name that can now be traced up to this commodious rock is maydyn, to
which was added, pleonastically, the English castle ; and this appellation has
been applied to several British fortlets in North and South Britain. We may,
from all those circumstances, infer tliat the Gadeni people had a strength on
this site, the scene of so many struggles, at the troublous epochs of the Roman
abdication and of Saxon intriision [h). " The Britons," saith Camden,

(a) See Camden's Britannia ; Horsley, 364 ; Gordon's Iter. Septent., 180-83.

(6) Wyntoun's Cronykyl, i., 54. That Celtic name certainly preceded tlie Saxon ; for the Castrum
Puellarum appears, as its designation, in charters at the dawn of record. Now, this is a mere trans-
lation of Maiden Castle, which is itself the mere vulgarism of the May-dijn of the British people.
Baxter, who has an ingenious etymon always at hand, informs us that the Maid^ Castle is the Maidun

v.zniH

556 AnACCOUNT [Cb. Y.— Edinburghshire.

" called it Castel Myned Agned, tlie Scots [Scoto-Saxons] the Maiden's castle,
and the Virgin's castle, of certain young maidens of the royal blood, who
were kept there in old time." Such were the popular traditions which this
learned antiquary thought it worth his while to adopt. The whole proceeded,
probably, from the Maydyn of the British times. Hence, the Maiden castle ;
hence, the Castrum puellarum ; and hence, the fable of the Pictish princesses,
who are feigned to have been educated in a castle which seems to have never
belonged to the Pictish people. The late Lord Hailes, indeed, made it a
question of serious inquiry whether Edinburgh Castle was ever known by the
name of Castrum puellarum (c) ; but Walter Hemingford would have answered
that question in the affirmative (c?), and the Chartulary of Newbotle would
have shown him the way to the Castrum puellarum (e). On this question, then,

of tlie British, signifying ingcntis Collis. The affix din is obviously the British word for a castle, and
the research of Bullet has found Mai, in the Gaulish, to signify grand. Yet the fact perhaps does
not warrant this exposition. Mai-din, British, or Magh-dun, Gaelic, may appositely signify the fort,
or fortified mount, in the plain, and there is nothing in the Saxon that would apply, with any fitness,
to the thing signified. What may be found in the Scandinavian Gothic upon the point, I pretend not
to know !

(fZ) Historia, i., 98. After the capture of Eosburgh Castle by Edward I. in 1296, Hemingford
adds: " Profeetus est, cum exercitu toto, ad Castrum Puellarum, quod Anglice dicitur Edensburch."
In a prior age, indeed, M. Paris, in giving an account of the English physician who was sent in
1255 to Edinburgh Castle, to visit the discontented queen of Alexander III., says : " Cum
autem idem magister Eeginaldus [the doctor] ad Castrum Puellarum, quod viilgariter dicitur
Edenhurc, exposita adventus sui causa et literas ostenderet tarn regis quam reginae Anglorum,
dictam oaxisam testificantes, admissus est benigne." Hist., 907. This is a still more curious
passage than the former from Hemingford. We thus perceive that Castrum Puellarum was the
learned named of the place, and Edenburc only the vulgar appellation. In a still prior period
we shall immediately find that CasteUum Puellarum was the technical and diplomatic name
of Edinburgh Castle, which was one of the five castles which William the Lion surrendered to
Henry II. in 1174, viz., the castles of Roxburgh, Berwick, and Gadeworthe, CasteUum Puellarum,
et CasteUum de Stryvlyn. Eym., i., 89 ; Hoveden, 545 ; and Fordun, the best of the Scottish
historians, in giving an account of the defeat of Gue}', the Count of Namur, on the burgh
moor, in 1335, says he retreated to the site of the ruined "Castrum Puellarum de Edinburgh."
L. xiii., c. 35.

(e) There is a charter of Eadulphus, the abbot of Holyrood, giving the monks of Newbotle
" illam partioulam terre nostre in feodo de Petendreich que jacet ex orientale parte vie regie et
" publice que ducit a monasterio de Newbotle versus Castrum Puellarum ; scilicet, inter ixircum
" juxta Newbotle et rivulem que dicitur Balnebuth versus aquilonem et inter viam predictam et
"terram dictorum monacLorum versus orientem." Chart. Newbot., No. 16. There is no date to
this charter, but it must have been made, as we know from the name of the grantor, about the
year 1253.

Sect. I.— Its Name.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 557

there can no longer be any doubt. The fact is, that the name of the castle was
very early applied to the town, and to the monastery below it, as we might
indeed learn from Hemingford in 1296, and from M. Paris in 1255 (/).
We now perceive that the earliest name of this metropolis was imposed by the
Gadeni people in their own significant speech, whose strength it was, even
before the arrival of Agricola among them during the first century.

There is still less difiiculty in ascertaining when the Saxon name of the same
capital was imposed by Edwin, the Northumbrian king, who gave his own
celebrated appellation to the burgh on the rock, whence the town derived its
appropriate designation (g). The Saxon name then assumed the forms of
Edivines-hurgh and Edenes-burgh, the ybr< of Edwin [h).

(/) There was a charter of David I. witnessed by William, the abbot "de Castello Puellanim."
Charleton's Hist. Whitby, 82. "An" 1154, Malcolmus rex dedit ecclesiam de Travement canonicis
de Castello Puellanim." Chron. Sanct. Crucis Edin. in Anglia Sacra, i., 161. There is a charter
of Malcolm IV. to the monks of Cambuskenneth, which was dated "apud oppidum puellarum."
Chart. Cambus., 54. In the charters of David I., who demised in 1153, we may perceive that he
sometimes speaks of those objects by the name of Castrum Pitellarum, and sometimes by the name of
Edenhimjh. Chart. Newbot., 27-8; Chart. Kelso, 8; MS. Monast. Scotia, IOC; Chart. May, 9;
Dugd. Monast., ii., 1055. There is a charter of Earl Henry, who died in 1152, in which Edin-
burgh Castle is called Castrum Puellarum. Chart. Kelso, 240. Several of the charters of
Malcolm IV., who demised in 1165, bear to have been granted at the Castrum Puellarum, at Castellum
Puellarum, at Oppidum Puellarum, and at Edinburg. Chart. Newbot., 159, 175 ; Chart.'' Paisley, 8 ;
Chart. Cambusken., 54 ; Chart. Aberd., 211 ; Chart. May, 16 ; and Chart. Autiq. Bibl. Harl., 11.
Of the charters of William, who succeeded his brother in 1165, few were granted at Edinburo-h. Of
those few, most of them are dated from Edinburgh, and scarcely any from Castellum Puellaruvi.
Many of the charters of Alexander II. were dated from Edinburgh Castle, as he resided in it ; and he
uses the designation of Castrum Puellarum generally, and but seldom Edinburg. See the Chartularies
throughout. Alexander III., who demised in 1286, dates his charters commonly from Castrum
Puellarum, sometimes Castellum Puellarum ; once, in 1278, he speaks of his residence at Castrum.
Puellarum de Edinburgh, but never, as far as appears, by the name of Edinburgh only. See his
charters. It is unnecessary to trace so clear a point any further. It daes not appear, however, that
the coins of the Scottish kings bear Castrum Puellarum, or Oppidum Puellarum, as the name of the
place of mintage.

{(/) Edwin, the potent king of Northumberland, fell a premature sacrifice to civil discord in 634 a.d.
Savill's Fasti, annexed to the " Scriptores Post Bedam."

(h) See the charters of Scone by Alexander I., and of Ilolyroodhouse by David I. Sir James
Dalrymple's Col. ; and Maitland's Edinburgh. See also the Coins of William the Lion, in Cardonnel's
Numismata, pi. 1 : "Adam on Edenebu — .'' We thus see that the name of the mintmaster was
Adam, and that the language of the inscription was Saxon ; the A.-S. on, being placed to denote the
English in. This, then, is a very early specimen of the Saxon speech of Edinburgh. See Caledonia,
i., 254. Fordun, however, has his own fiction, i., 64 ; and Wyntoun has his conceit, which comes
nearer to the British original. Cronyc, i., 54.

4 4 B

558 AnACCOUNT [Ch. \.— Edinburghshire.

The next change of this dignified name was from the Saxon to the Gaelic,
from Edwins-hurgh to Dun-Edin ; and herein the philologist may perceive the
different formations of the Saxon and the Gaelic, the name of the Saxon king
being prefixed in the first, and the name of the same king being annexed in
the last. Nor is this translation so modern as superficiality would suppose.
The Register of the priory of St. Andrews, in recording the demise of Edgar
[1107], says, " mortuus in Dun-Eden et sepultus in Dunfermling (/)."

In more recent times this metropolis has received, from ignorance and
refinement, several names which betray the unpropitious sources whence they
proceeded. Bolton, in his admirable Hypercritica, when exposing the absurdity
of changing proper names in Latin histories, adds : " In this fine and mere
schoolish folly Buchanan is often taken, not without casting his reader into
obscurity." It was he who first called the Scottish metropolis Edina rather
than Edinburg-us, which had been more appropriate though less poetical {K).

The charters we have just seen cast the clearest lights on the ancient names
of Edinbui-gh, but the seals of this city rather obscure the clear than illustrate
the dark. There is a veiy ancient seal, which was engraved at the expense of
the Antiquary Society of London, in the work of Astle on the Scottish seals Q).

(J) Innes's Crit. Essay, 797-803. In more recent times, indeed, Edinburgh is called, in Gaelic,
Dvn-monaidh, tlie hill of the moor, both in the Highland Tales, and in Bishop Oarswell's Translation
of the Service of the Church, which was printed at Edinburgh.

(i) The classical name is now Edinensis. See the elegant title page of the Transactions of the
Eoyal Society of Edinbui'gh. Lesley, the contemporary and rival of Buchanan, says, indeed :
" Cruthnaeus Camelodunum Primariam Pictorum urbem, et Agnedam, jDOstea Ethinburgiim ab Etho
" quodam Pictorum rege dictam, cum Puellarum Castro (ubi regis et nobilium Pictorum filise, dum
" nuptui darentur, servari et praeceptis ad humanitatem et virtutem informari solebant) condidit."
Edit. Eome, 1578, p. 84. In his curious map, however, Lesley has Edinburyum; but St. Andrews he
dignifies as the metropolis.

(/) PI. ii.. No. 1 : The committee of antiquaries was unable to read the legend of this seal,
and the letterpress in p. 13, by way of exposition, says that "it is doubtful if the Castrum Puellarum
be not Dumfries, though repeatedly inferred to be Edinburgh by our English historians of
the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.'' But we have seen above, from a thousand charters,
what fitness there was in this doubt of antiquarianism. I was disposed to doubt whether there
was such a seal of Edinburgh, till I received a letter from Col. Henry Hutton of the Artillery,
who is compiling a Moimsticon Scotiw, dated the 13th of September, 1801 : "I met with a curious old
<' seal of Edinburgh, the last time I was in Scotland, appendant to some old papers (I think of
" the 15th century), in the charter room of the city [of Edinburgh]. It has two sides, on one
"of which is the figure of St. Giles [the guardian saint of the city], with a legend, which has
" hitherto baffled all my endeavours to decipher." I have also tried in vain to decipher the
game legend. There is the delineation of Sir James Balfour, of the common seal of Edinburgh

Sect. YlU.—Its Situation and Extent.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 559

Maitland seems to have been the first inquirer who freed both the history of
Edinburo-h and the oriafin of its name, from the fables which had involved both
for ages in fictitious honours (m).

In the meantime, the shire of Edinburgh was known both in history and
tradition, by the significant name of Mid-Lothian. The fine country lying
along the Forth, from the Tweed to the Avon, was scarcely known by the
name of Lothian till the tenth century had almost expired (n). During the
reign of David I., Lothian still extended southward to the Tweed (o). It was
during the subsequent reigns restricted to the country lying northward of the
Lammermoor, and in the 13th century, Lothian became divided, by the na-
tional policy, into three parts, which were known in the tradition and recog-
nized in the law of the nation, by the names of East, West, and Mid-
Lothian {p).

§ II. Of its Situation and Extent.'] Mid-Lothian has Linlithgow on the
west, the Forth on the north, Haddington and a small part of Berwick on the
east, and Selkirk, Peebles, and Lanark on the south. Edinburghshire or
Mid-Lothian lies between 55° 39' 30", and 55° 59' 20" north latitude; and
between 2° 52', and 3° 45' 10" west longitude from Greenwich. The college
of Edinburgh, according to astronomical observations, stands in 55° 57' 57"
of north latitude, and 3° 12' west longitude of Greenwich (g). Edinburgh-
city, in the Brit. Mus. Harl., 4694. The device is a large castle. The legend is — " S. Commune
burgi de Edenburgi." One of the earliest maps of Edinburgh is that of James Gordon of Rothiemay,
during the reign of Charles I., which was engraved by F. de Wit of Amsterdam ; and he calls the
city civitas Edinodunensis.

(m) Mait. Hist. Edin., 2-6.

(n) Caledonia, i. 259, wherein the meaning of the word Lothian is investigated.

(o) See the charter of Robert I. Robert. Index, 155.

(p) Bagimont's Roll ; Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 119.

(q) Doctor Lind had the goodness to communicate to me the mean result of many observations by
the astronomers at Hawkhill observatory, as follows : —

N. Lat. W. Long, of Greenwich.

HawkhUl obsei-vatory, 55° 5S' 28" - - 3° 10' 7"

The Steeple of St. Giles' Church, Edinburgh, - 55° 57' 38" - - 3° 11' 55"
The Summit of Arthur's Seat, - .- - 55° 57' 18" - - 3° 10' 0"

There must be some error in noting the longitude of the summit of Arthur's Seat, which is somewhat
westward of Hawkhill, and must be about 3° 10' 50" W. of Greenwich. In Andrew Hart's Bible,
which was printed at Edinburgh in 1610, there is an e.vact CaUender, calculated to the latitude of
Edinburgh, which is under 56 degrees. This Callender was calculated by Robert Pont, the father of
Timothy, the topographer.

560 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

shire extends from east to west, 38 [36] miles, and from north to south 15 [24]
miles. These measm-ements give a superficies of 358 [367] square miles, which
contain 229,120 [234,926] EngHsh acres (?•), and the number of people being in
1801, 124,124, this population is equal to 34'671 souls to a square mile.

The three Lothians have been often sui-veyed. Timothy Pont finished his
map during the i-eign of Charles I. (s). The thi'ee Lothians were again sur-
veyed during King William's reign by John Adair, with less skill j^erhaps,
and certainly with less utility (i). John Laurie published a valuable map of
Mid-Lothian in 1763, and in 1773, Andrew and Mostyn Armstrong,
published a six sheet map of the three Lothians, which was reduced and
engraved by Kitchen (u); and there is a very useful sketch of this shire pre-
fixed to the Agricultural Survey of Mid-Lothian, by George Robertson in
1795, with a view to its important subject. In proportion, as old notices are
relinquished for new intimations, such surveys become less helpful to the
topographer and less amusive to the reader.

§ in. Of its natural Objects.^ The area of Edinburghshire may be considered
as mountainous. The Pentlaud hills commence in Liberton parish, near the
centre of the county ; and extend in a south-west direction about twelve miles ;
stretching beyond the boundary of the shire into Peebles. The Caerketau Craig,
which is situated at the northern extremity of the Pentland I'ange, rises above
the level of the sea fourteen hundred and fifty feet, ainidst other hills of great
heights (x). The Logan-house hill, which is situated towards the middle of

()■) On the large map of Mid-Lothian, in 1763, by Laurie, the superficies of this shire is 358 square
miles, or 229,120 statute acres. On the map of the Lothians by Armstrong it is 337 square
miles, or 241,280 statute acres. On Arrowsmith's map of Scotland, from the Engineers' Survey,
this shire contains 358 square miles, or 229,120 statute acres, -which I have adopted, as most
accurate.

(s) His map of Lothian and Linlithgow is No. 9 of Blaeu's Atlas Scotia, and is of considerable
value.

(t) The Surveys of Adair were engraved by R. Cooper.

((() The latitudes and longitudes of this map were supplied by that excellent mathematician, the
Eev. Alexander Bryce, of Kirknewton.

(x) The Pentland hills of the northern range rise above the sea-level, according to Laurie's map of
Mid-Lothian, to the following elevations : —

Leep Hill, - . . . 1,500 feet. A nameless hill, - - - 1,350 feet.

Caerketan Hill, - - - 1,450 A nameless hill, - - - 1,340

Castle Law, - - - 1,390 [1,595] Craigintan-ie, - - - 1,210

Beet. lU.—ris natural Objects.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 561

the same range and is the highest of the Pentland hills, has been found by the
most accurate observations to be seventeen hundred feet above the level of the
sea at Leith, and is surrounded by other hills of great heights (?/). The
Spital hill, which is the most southerly of the Pentland range, rises amid other
hills to a great elevation (2). The Pentland hills* in Glencorse parish, like the
other eminences of that mountainous tract, consist of different sorts of whinstone
and of other lapideous strata, which are commonly termed primitive rocks.

Next to the Pentland mountains the Moorfoot hills are the most conspicuous
ranges. From Coatlaw, standing on the west side of Moorfoot water, the most
northerly range stretches east-north-east about ten miles, having Tvveeddale
on the west, and terminates in Cowberry hill near the source of the Gala
water (a). The other range also branches off from Coatlaw on the western
point, and extends, with a wider spread than the former, about ten miles in
a south-east direction over the extensive country which is drained by the
Heriot and Luggate waters {h). These two ranges of the Moorfoot heights
may be regarded as two sides of a large triangle, having the river Gala for its
base on the east. The northern range of the Moorfoot liills cuts off, as it were,
from Edinburghshire, the parishes of Heriot and Stow, which form the south-
east corner of this county. Heriot and Stow, which constitute a sort of district
by themselves, are watered by the Heriot and Gala streams. They are studded
irregularly by some round hills which, however, do not form any regular
range (c). In Pvatho parish there is a small congeries of hills which run from

(?/) The Pentland hills of the middle range rise above the sea-level, according to Laurie's map, to
the following elevations : —

A nameless hill, - - 1,600 feet.

Carnethie, - - - 1,500 [1,890]

Black Hill, East, - - 1,550

Kipps Hill, - - 1,420 feet [1,806].

Black Hill, West, - 1,360

Hare Hill, - - 1,330 [1,470].

{z) The Pentland hills of the southern range rise above the sea-level, according to Laurie's map, to
the following elevations : — •

The Spital Hill to - - 1,360 feet. Three nameless hills, in the south part of the

range, to 1,390, 1,380, 1,310 feet.

(a) Coatlaw, the most westerly of those mountains, rises to the height of 1,680 feet, above the level of
the sea. There are other hills among the Moorfoot eminences which rise above the same level to the
different elevations of 1,500, 1,450. 1,430, 1,400, 1,390, 1,360, and 1,320 feet. Laurie's map of Mid-
Lothian.

(J) Blackhope Scares, which is the highest hill in this range, rises 1,850 feet above the level of the
8ea. The other hills in this range ascend to the various elevations of 1,G80, 1,G60, 1,630, 1,600,
1,560, 1,540, 1,520, 1,470, and 1,410 feet above the same level. Id.

* Scald Law, 1,898 feet, is the highest hill iu the Pentland range.

562 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.—EcUnhurghshire.

nortli to south about a mile and a half, and which ai-e called Piatt hills, from two
hamlets that are situated on two of those mountainets (cZ). Through the parish
of Corstorphine run the hills of this name, in a curving direction from south-east
to north-west, for an extent of two miles, and rise to an elevation of four hundred
and seventj-four feet above the level of the sea. The Corstorphine hills could
hardly have gained the appellation of mounts if they had not been in a manner
insulated in the midst of a rich plain, which is several miles in extent, wherein
they rise four hundred and seventy-four feet above the level of the sea, and
exhibit several indentations along their summits, which make them a very con-
spicuous object. Between Dalmahoy and the river Leith, on the south, there
are three hills in a line, which are called Dalmahoy Craigs (e). On the summit of
the hill of Ravelrig there seems to be a ri)}g camp, and at the base of it an en-
campment of a square form, which is indicative of a Roman work {/). Between
the parishes of Crichton and Cranston on the east, and Cockpen and Dalkeith
on the west, there is a continued ridge of hill which stretches nearly six miles
from south to north, and which does not much obstruct the road from Edin-
burgh to Coldstream that crosses its centre (g).

Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Craigs exhibit a wild and romantic scene of
vast precipices and broken rocks which, from some points, seem to overhang
the lower suburbs of Edinburgh (/<). In any other situation than the singular
site of Edinburgh, the Calton-hill, which has scarcely been noticed by tourists,
would be considered as an eminence of considerable height, as a rock of
uncommon appearance, that supplies a walk of very diversified views.

Edinburghshire is undoubtedly well watered. The Forth, which bounds it
on the north, communicates to this county many advantages of navigation, of
food, and of fertilization. After the Forth the Esk may be said to be the chief
river, which is composed of two streams that unite their kindred waters below
Dalkeith, and glide in a deep channel into the Forth at Inveresk. The Esk
is swelled by the waters of many streams from the Pentland hills, particularly
by the Glencorse water near Achindinny, and after a various course of

(d) The Piatt hills are GOO feet above the level of the sea.

(e) The southmost is 680 feet, and the next is 660 feet, above the sea.

(/) Armstrong's map ; Stat. Acco. of Currie, v. 5, p. 326.

(g) The sketch of the county in the Agricult. Survey. That ridge is, in different places, 550,
590, 600, and 680 feet above the sea-level.

(k) Pennant's Tour, 55. Arthur's Seat rises 790 [822] feet above the sea-level ; Salisbury Craigs,
550 [574] feet ; and the Calton Hill, 320 [348] feet. Laurie's map.

Sect. Ul.—Tis Natural Objects.'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 563

two-and-twenty miles, contributes by its junction to form " the murmuring
Esk."

Several streamlets whicb flow from Cairn-edge, a billy range that separates
Peebles from Edinburgh, form the commodious river Leith, which flows in a
hollow channel between well wooded banks. It afterwards receives the Beve-
law burn with some smaller x'ivulets, and coursing in a north-east direction
two-and-twenty miles it glides into the Forth, where its issue, which was of
old called Inverleith, forms the port of Leith («). Almond river, which rises in
Lanarkshire, and runs through the southern corner of Linlithgowshire, first
waters Edinburghshire, where it is joined by the Breich-Burn. The Almond,
from this junction, forms the boundary between the shires of Linlithgow and
Edinburgh till it falls into the Forth at Cramond, the Caea-amon of the Britons,
the Alaterva of the Romans ; except, indeed, for the course of two miles with-
in the parish of Mid-Calder, where the county of Edinburgh projects a mile
to the westward of it. The Gala water rises in the Moorfoot range. It is soon
enlarged by the greater volume of Heriot stream, when both take the name of
the Gala. It is joined in its course by Luggate water, with several streamlets
which drain the valley through which it glides. The Gala now pursues its
southerly direction for ten miles, when it enters Selkirkshire, and after a
meandering course mixes its waters with the Tweed, which peoples it with the
finny tribes. Such are the streams which oniament and benefit Edinburgh-
shire. Yet, do they not furnish an abundant fisheiy, either for foreign trafiic
or domestic use. Nor are there any lakes in this shire, which, for their size or
usefulness, or embellishment, merit much mention.

This country abounds with minerals and fossils. Beds of pit-coal stretch
across the country from Carlops to Musselburgh, from south-west to north-east,
fifteen miles in length and eight in breadth. This valuable fuel has been
known and used here since the happy times of Alexander II., if not earlier.
There are at present raised yearly about a hundred and eighty thousand tons,
of the value of thirty-nine thousand pounds. Limestone equally abounds in
Edinburghshire, though it lies nearer to the hills. There are probably made
in every year sixteen hundred thousand bushels, which are worth ten thousand

(t) This is tlie most useful river of any in Edinburglishire, perhaps in Scotland. In the course of
ten miles it drives 14 corn mills, 12 barley mills, 20 flour mills, 7 saw mills, 5 fulling mills, 5 snuff
mills, 4 paper mills, 2 lint mills, and 2 leather mills. Stat. Acco., six., p. 590. The rent of some
of those mills, which are in the vicinity of the metropolis, is upwards of £20 sterling per foot of
water-fall, and it forms at its confluence the commercial port of Edinburgh.

564 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

pounds. There is in this shire great plenty of freestone, and of good quality.
Granite and whinstone are found in every parish. In Penicuik there are found
millstones, marble, and petrifactions. The annual value of all those does not
surpass six thousand pounds. Ironstone abounds, and copper exists. What
has been found of marl is sufficient to show that more might be discovered in
this county by diligent search (k). A copper mine was laid open in 1754, at
Lumphoy, on Leith water, six miles south-west of Edinburgh (l).

The mineral waters of this shire contribute to preserve or to restore the
health of the inhabitants. St. Bernard's Well, on the rocky margin of the
Leith water, has been recently praised for its good qualities, perhaps equal to
its real value. In Cramond parish there is a mineral spring, which is called
the Well of Spa, and has been found beneficial in scorbutic complaints (m). In
Mid-Calder parish there are sulphureous waters, which have been experienced,
like those of Harrogate, to be beneficial in complaints of scrofula and gravel.
In the more elevated parish of Penicuik there are several chalybeate springs,
which are supposed by the common people to have cured them of many
maladies. Two miles southward of Edinburgh is St. Catherine's, or the oily
well, which engaged the protection of King James ; and is said to have cured
cutaneous and other disorders of the people, " though plunged in ills and exer-
cised in cares."

§ rv. Of its Antiquities.^ The natural objects which have just been men-
tioned may be deemed some of its earliest antiquities. But it is the colonization
of the area of this shire by the progressive settlements of the Britons, the
Romans, the Saxons, and the Scoto-Irish, with the languages which they
left in its topography, that ought to be considered as the most interesting of
its antiquities, because they are the most instructive. The Ottadini and
Gadeni people, the British descendants of the first colonists, enjoyed their
original land during the second century of our common era ; as we know from
Ptolomy and Richard (n) ; and their language, as it appears in the maps of
this shire, is a satisfactory proof of their settlement and genealogy (o). The
Romans seem not to have left in the topography of Mid- Lothian any speci-

(k) Stat. Acco., X., 429 ; xv., 437 ; sviii., 371 : Agiioult. Survey, 25-6.

(t) Scots Mag., 1754, 450. (m) Wood's History of Crataond, 115.

(n) Caledonia, i., 58-59.

(o) Those Britisli people left, in the names of the waters within Mid-Lothian, indubitable traces of
their significant speech. There are, as we have seen, the Forth, the Badotria of Tacitus, the Almond,
the Esk, the Leith, the Brelch, the Gore, and the rivulet Gogar. In the appellation of places, may

Seci.lV.— rts Antiquities.] Op NORTH -BEITAIN. 565

mens of iheir language, whatever remains tliey may have left of their roads and
encampments, their baths and sepulchres. Soon after their abdication the
Anglo-Saxons intruded into Mid-Lothian, though in fewer numbers than settled
in Berwick and in Haddington, as we may infer from the smaller number of
the names which have been imposed by them in this shire than in either of those
counties ( j?). The Scoto-Irish came in from the west at length upon the British,
perhaps, and ujDon the Anglo-Saxon settlers in Mid -Lothian. As we proceed
westward from the Tweed along the Forth, through the shires of Berwick, and
Haddington, and Edinburgh, we see the Gaelic names gradually increase in
numbers (q). The Celtic names appear to be in this shire about one-fourth
of the Anglo-Saxon, owing probably to the superlnduction of the English
names both upon the Gaelic and the Anglo-Saxon names proper. But the
English appellations are not fit objects of this etymological inquiry, as they may
be said to have been applied to their several localities within time of memory.
The Gaelic names were imposed partly after 843 a.d., the commencement
of the Scottish period, but more perhaps after Lothian had been ceded, in
1020 A.D. to the Scottish king. In this manner, then, are the facts of topo-
graphy usefully brought in to support the feeble intimations of dubious history
in exclusion of traditional fictions.

Edinburghshire does not abound in the stone monuments of the earliest
people. In Kirknewton parish, however, there are still appearances of druidical

be equally traced to tlie Celtic speecli : Cramond, Cockpen, Caerbarrin [Carberry], Dreg-horn, Dal-
keith, Inch-Keith, Kail, Nidref [Nidderie], Pendreich, Eoslin, lieir-hiW, Lin-ioot, Z,tn-house water,
and others might be instanced to show how the English adjuncts have been engrafted on British
roots.

(p) The Anglo-Saxon names of places appear to decrease in numbers as we proceed towards the
north and west, where the Scoto-Irish begin to prevail. In the south and south-east may be
seen the Anglo-Saxon, Latv, Rigg, Dod, Shiel, Lee, Dean, Hope, Ham, Burgh, Wic, Shaw, By,
Cleugh, Holm, Threap, and Chester. There are a few instances of Saxon words in single names, as,
Stoiu ; Botle, in Newbotle ; Wade, or Weid, in Lass-wade ; Thwait, in Morthwait [Morphet]. But
there is no example of Fell; nor any intimation that a Scandinavian people ever resided in
Edinburghshire.

{fj) The most obvious Gaelic names are : Achincorth, A chenlecks-walls, Achinhonnd-hiW, Aehligamel,
Allerniore-hWX, Achendenny, Achenoul, Badds, Balgreen, Badlicih, Balernoe, Bellernt), Braid, Catcuin,
Colder, Crossaimit, Carnethie-\i.\\\, Cairnie, Cmni-hill, Craig, Craigentarrie, Currie, Dairy, Drum-
sheugh, Dalmahoy, Dalwolsie [Dalhousie], Drum, Drumaben, Drumdrynan, Drumhraiden, Garvald,
Glencorse, InveresJc, Inch, Inverleith, Killiii-waier, Killeith, Lumphoy, Moredun, Pow-hurn, Phantassie,
Ratho, Torpichen-\n\\, Torqiiehan, Torsonce, Tipperlin, Torphin, Torhreclc, Kipps, Wymet [Wolmet].
The Celtic Pol, or Pow, appears only in Pow-burn, Po/-beth, and Pol-ton ; but there are not in this
shire any instance of either Aid or Gil.

4 4 0

oGO A N A C C 0 U N T [Cb. Y.—Edinburglishire.

circles {>•). On Heriot-town bill there is a circle consisting of high stones,
and measuring seventy or eighty feet in diameter (a). Such are the faint
memorials of the worship which the first settlers offered to the Deity, There
are many cairns in this shire which may be equally deemed the funereal
monuments of the pristine inhabitants. In Borthwick parish, on the lands of
Currie, thei'e are several cairns, the cemeteries of the earliest times (t). On the
ground of Comiston, in Colinton parish, there are two very large conical
cairns wherein human bones have been found, with fragments of ancient
armour. Not far from those curious remains stands a massy block of whin-
stone which is called the Ca<-stane, and which is seven feet high above the
ground and more than four feet below it («). All those intimations denote the
site of an early conflict, as indeed the remains of an ancient encampment evince.
In Mid-Calder parish there are several mounds of earth which appear to be
the repositories of the dead, and which are known in the southern parts of
our island by the appropriate name of harrows (x). In the vicinity of Newbotle
Abbey there was of old a large tumulus which was composed of earth, of a
conical fiu'ure, 30 feet high and 90 feet diameter at the base, and which was
surrounded by a circle of stones. This barrow, which had a fir tree growing on
its summit, was removed when Newbotle house was rebuilt. Upon opening
this tumulus there was found a stone cofiin near seven feet long that con-
tained a human skull, which was presented to the Antiquarian Society of Edin-
burgh, in April 1782 (y). In August, 1754, a farmer ploughing his field at
Roslin turned up the cover of a stone cofiin about nine feet long, which
contained the bones of a human body. The bones were much decayed, except
the skull and teeth, which were sound and large (z). This must have been
the grave of some British warrior rather than the cofliin of one of the chiefs
who fell in the battles of Roslin during the year 1303.

In Edinburghshire there remain also various specimens of the military art
of the earliest people. In Penicuik parish, near the tenth mile-stone from
Edinburgh on the Linton road, is an oval camp on an eminence which

(r) Stat. Acco., ix., 415. {s) lb., xvi., 67.

(<) lb., xiii., 635, Below the tumuli, and even around them, there have been dug up earthen pots,
which were full of half-burnt bones, and which were each covered by a flat stone. The pots were of
coarse, but curious workmanship, and were ornamented with various figures. lb., 63G.

(«) lb., xix., 591 ; and Maitland, Edin., 508. The name is obviously derived from the British
Cad, the Gaelic Calk, signifying a battle ; and cat-stane means the battle-stone.

(a;) Stat. Acco., xiv., 371. (i/) Account of that Society, 95.

{z) Scots Mag., 1754, 402.

Sect. lY. — rts Antiquities.] Or NORTH- BRITAIN. 567

measure.^ within eighty-four by sixty-seven yards, enclosing a number of*
tumuli that are each eleven yards in diameter. It is encompassed by two
ditches, each four yards wide, with a mound of six yards between them,
having three entrances, and it is called, by the tradition of the country,
the Castle. There is a similar encampment on the bank of Harkenburn, within
the woods of Penicuik (a). In Borthwick parish, on the farm of Cat-
cune, there is a field which has immemorially been called the Chesters, in
the middle whereof there is an oval encampment measuring about half an acre.
In the midst of this oval is an immense round whinstone, which labour has
not yet been able to remove, and a hundred yards distant from it are several
cairns, the sepulchral monuments of the warriors who had defended the
Cat'Cune, the battle-hillock, as the Celtic name imports (6). In Crichton
parish, at Longfaugh, there are the remains of a camp having a circular form,
which may still be traced on a rising ground. In the neighbourhood of this
ancient strength there have been recently dug up many bones, the only rests
of the brave men who were its best defence (c). In Heriot parish, on Midhill-
head, there may still be seen three large rings or deep ditches, of about a
hundred paces diameter, the obvious security of the earliest people (d). In
Liberton parish there is an ancient rampart of an oval form. In the same
vicinity, there are the remains of fortifications, which retain the characteristic
names of Kaims. There are near them two tumuli, called Cae?'-cZ;f^-knows,
or the Black Camp on the knolls, and there are also here, as proper
accompaniments of so many warlike objects, Cai-stanes or battle-stones (e).

(a) Scots Mag., s., 431.

(h) A mile and a half soutli-west from tliis field, on the lands of Middleton, are Chesters of
quite a different description. The former Chester is on a southern exposure ; these Chesters are
on a northern. They are on a sloping bank, and consist of five terraces, alternately overhanging
a pleasant valley and rivulet. The Reverend Mr. Clunie, the minister of Borthwick, MS. letter
to me. These last intimations seem to import that the site of a camp had been converted into a place
of sport.

(e) Antiq. Trans. Edin., 304-8. In the ancient British speech, Cad signifies a battle, a striving to
keep ; so Cath, in the Gaelic, equally signifies a battle. The Saxons, who affixed their word sfane to
the Celtic term Cat, found those memorials of warfare already in existence, and adopted a previous
appellation, which perhaps they did not perfectly understand. Caer also means, in the British, a mound,
for defence; and Du, black; and so in the Gaelic form of the same word Duff, signifies black. We
have already seen Cat-stune and Cat-cane ; and there are, on the northern side of the Pentland hills,
the Cat-henTps. Mait. Hist. Edin., 507. The prefixes Cath, Cat, Cad, all carry the intelligent mind
back to the disastrous conflicts of Celtic times.

568 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edinburgfishire.

In Lasswade parish, near the house of Mavis-bank, there is a circular mount of
earth, which is begirt with ramparts that are now cut into terraces. Herein
have been found ancient weapons of brass, with fibulae, bridle-bits, and other
warlike articles of a similar nature {/). There is reason to believe that the
Komaus according to their custom, may have taken possession of this ancient
strength, as a commodious post for protecting their passage of the Esk (g).
In Ratlio parish, there are two ancient strengths which are surrounded by
i-amparts ; the one on Kaims-hill, in the south-western part of the parish ;
and the other on the South Plat-hill, near the manse. The last has been
greatly destroyed, by carrying away the stones for the various purposes of
improvement (h). To this class of military antiquities may be referred the
Maiden castles of Roslin and of Edinburgh, as fortlets of the British people,
which the name pretty plainly intimates ; and this circumstance will probably
lead some minds to consider the Castrum Puellarum of Edinburgli, as a Gadeni
strength of the very earliest times. To all those may be added the caves of
Hawthornden, which were probably the hiding places of the first people, and
which may have been Improved by more recent warriors. If we except
the topographical language which is still spoken in this shire, those notices
indicate the chief remains of the Ottadlni and Gadeni, the British tribes who
had inhabited the wilds of this shire, during a thousand years before they were
disturbed by the intrusion of strangers.

Towai'ds the conclusion of the first century, the Romans entered upon the
area of Edinburghshire, and they retained their possession more than three
hundred and sixty years, by roads, by camps, and by naval stations. Their
antiquities have been already investigated, and need not be i-epeated («). During

(y") In Penicuik parish, near Brunt-stane Castle, was lately found an arrow-head of flint, barbed,
which was about two inches long and one inch broad. It is preserved in Penicuik House. Stat.
Acco., X., 420-5.

(^) lb., s., 286-7 ; Roy's Milit. Antiq., 103. Eoy points to this place as the traject of the Bomans
over the North Esk, on their route to Cramond.

(h) Stat. Acco., vii., 264.

(t) See Caledonia, i., 164-66. A gold coin of the Emperor Vitellius was found in 1775 by
ploughing a field in the neighbourhood of Penicuik House, and presented to the Antiquarian
Society of Edinburgh by Sir James Clerk in 1782. Ace. of the Society, p. 62. A copper coin
of the Emperor Vespasian was found in a garden at the Pleasance of Edinburgh, and was pre-
sented to the same society by Doctor John Aitkin in 1782. lb., 72. Near lugleston, in Eatho,
there was long ago dug up a piece of a pillar, having upon each side the Eoman seciirii; the badge
and ensign of magistracy, says Sibbald, who presented this relict to the College of Edinburgh.
Sibbald's Eoman Ant., 40.

Sect. IV.— Its A ntiquities.'] OrNOETH-BRITAIN. 569

their long residence in this shire, the Romans erected altars that are supposed
even now to be seen, and dropt their coins and their arms, which are often
found. At length their legions retired from the shores of the Forth, whereon
they delighted to dwell ; and at the epoch of 44G A.D., the Romans abdicated
their government within their province of Valentia, leaving the Ottad'mi and
Gadeni in possession of the pleasant country of their British forefathers, with-
out any pretension of the Picts, or any intrusion of the Scots.

At the commencement of the Pictish period, the Romanized descendants of
the first settlers were doomed to sustain a fresh struggle, which, from their new
habits, they were little able to encounter. They were invaded by a fierce
people, who, as they were of a different lineage, spoke a dissimilar language ;
and they were over-run during the year 449, rather than subdued, by a Saxon
people. But at the end of a century of wretchedness they submitted to the
superior genius of the Saxon Ida. They were now mingled with a race who
have transmitted their speech and their policy through many ages of change
to the present times. They were at length placed under the jurisdiction, both
civil and ecclesiastical, of the Northumbrian kingdom. About the year 620,
the warlike Edwin built on their northern frontier a hurgh, which ensured
their submission, and has transmitted his name with eclat to our inquisitive
times. The disaster of the intemperate Egfrid in 685 a.d., gave the ancient
people some repose ; but involved the mingled inhabitants in new perturba-
tions through ages of conflict. The cession of the Lothians, by a Northumbrian
earl to Malcolm II., the Scottish king, in 1020 A.D., introduced among the
ancient British and the Anglo-Saxons the Scottish people, who long enjoyed
all the prdominancy of superior power. Such were the succeeding people,
and various authorities which followed each other in this shire during more
than six centuries, either of barbarous quiet or of wasteful hostihty. The several
maps of this shire must be considered as curious delineations of the antiquities
of the successive colonists, and as satisfactory evidences of their genealogical
history.

In addition to all those antiquities there are various objects, which, however
regarded by some, can only be deemed modern antiquities ; " because they're
old, because they're new." In this class Edinburgh castle is the fii-st point.
This fortlet was originally built upon a precipitous rock, whose area measures
seven acres; and whose height is 294 [383] feet above the sea-level. It was of
old only accessible on the eastern side, which is now fortified by art. That it was
a strength of the British people in the earliest times, we have already seen.

570 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. \ .—Edinhmjhshire.

During every age it will be found to be an interesting object in the varied
events of the national annals (o).

Craigmiller castle stands at no great distance on the south-east. Like it,
the name in its present form furnishes little instruction either from its age or
its architecture. But if the true appellation be C raig-moil-ard, signifying in
the Gaelic, a rock, bare, in the plain, with a correspondent situation, these
circumstances would evince that it probably received its Celtic name after the
epoch of 1020. But there is nothing to show in what age or by what hand
it was built. A village had risen under the shelter of this castle as early as the
reign of William the Lion {h). The castle became the property of the Prestons
as early as 1374, who long retained it. In 1427, the castellated wall was built,
as an inscription testifies. It was in this castle that James III.'s brother, the
Earl of Mar, was imprisoned. In 1554, it was burned by the English army.
It seems to have been soon repaired ; and here Maiy Ste^vart resided when
Murray and Lethington and her other ministers made their insidious proposal
to her of a divorce from Darnley. At the epoch of the restoration, Craigmiller
became the property of the great lawyer. Sir Alexander Gilmore (c).

Crichton castle, which was the fortlet of Chancellor Crichton under James
II., is situated about ten miles south-east of Edinburgh, on the edge of a bank
above a grassy glen. During his life, it was razed by the Douglases. It was
afterward rebuilt with moi-e ornament but less strength ; and yet has become
a ruin owing to time and chance {d). Borthwick castle stands south-
east of Edinburgh a dozen miles, the ruined residence of Lord Borthwick ;
being a vast equilateral tower ninety feet high, with square and round bastions
at equal distances from its base. This fortlet was the property of James Earl
Bothwell, who sought refuge here from insurgency with Mary Stewart (e),
Dalhousie castle, standing eight miles south-east of Edinburgh, the property of

(a) A prospect of tlie south side of tlie castle of Edinburgh, may be seen in Slezer's Thealnim
Scottce, 1693, No. 1 : '-Facies Aicis Edenhurgena." In Grose's Antiquities of Scotland, 1789, there
are five views of Edinburgh Castle, and in Cardonnel's Pict. Antiq., 1789, there is a S.W. view of
Edinburgh Castle. But the most picturesque of all is Campbell's view of " Edinburgh from the west,"
in his Tour, facing p. 192 of vol. ii. [See also Grant's History of the Castle of Edinburgh.]

(b) In the Iladdington Collections there is a charter of William, the son of Henry de Craigmiller, of
a toft, in this village, to the monks of Dunfermline, dated in 1212.

(c) There are two views of Craigmiller in Grose's Antiq., ii., 50-1 ; there is a view of it in Car-
donnel's Antiquities ; and the clearest view seems to be that in Campbell's Tour, ii., 285. [See also
Billing's Baronial Antiquities.]

(d) That i-uin may be seen in Grose, ii., 52. [See Billing.]

(e) Its ruin may be seen in Grose, ii., 68. [See Billing.]

Sect. lY.— Its Antiquities.'] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 571

the gallant Ramsays of Dalhousie, has undergone many changes during the
revolutions of Mid-Lothian {/). Hawthornden, a small castellated mansion
which is perched on a high projecting rock that overhangs the North Esk, is
more celebrated than any of those castles, from its being the residence of
William Drummond, the most ingenious and amiable of the poets of
Charles I.'s reign (g). Hawthornden and Roslin every tourist visits, from
Edinburgh, to enjoy the softness of their scenery and to admire the picturesque
of their beauties. The origin of E,oslin Castle is laid in fable. It stands upon
a peninsular rock which runs out into the meadow of the Esk (li). Much less
is said of the sieges which it has sustained than of the hilarities that have
enlivened its massy walls through many a rude age. Ravensnook castle in
Penicuik parish, on the Esk, was also the property of the Sinclairs of
Roslin (/). Brunston castle, which also stands on the Esk, within the same
parish, is a ruin large and unsightly that is surrounded by a ditch [k). Within
Penicuik parish thei'e are several other towers, which seem to evince that
anarchy had long predominated in this hilly district (/). In that neighbour-
hood may still be seen the ancient tower of Woodhouselee, in a hollow glen
beside the river. The heiress of Woodhouselee fell a sacrifice to the corrupt
tyranny of the regent Murray (m). Her husband, Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh,
put the guilty tyrant to death, as " base-born Murray rode through old
Linlithgow's crowded town." Four miles distant, on the slope of the
Pentland hills, is Woodhouselee of modern times, the elegant seat of Lord

(/) There is a view of it in Grose, ii. 69.

(</) There are three views of it in Grose, ii. .53-8. There is an etching of Hawthornden by the
present Marchioness of Stafford. This accomplished lady was too erudite to forget that, "Here
Jonson sat, in Drummond's classic shade."

(A) There are two plates of Roslin Castle in Cardonnel.

(i) Stat. Acco., X. 425. (k) Id.

(I) From Brunston, on the north-west, at no great distance, there is the ruin of a strong tower ; and
there are two other ruinous towers at Braidwood and at Wellstown. Id. In the same parish, on
Glencorse water, there is a strong tower called Logan house, which is said to have been a hunting seat
of one of the Jamess. Id. About a mile to the westward there is the Howlet's house, which is also
ruinous : still further westward, on the northern side of the hills, appears the ruin of Bevelaw tower,
which is also said to have been a hunting seat of the James's. Id.

(m) Grose has two views of Woodhouselee ; and he gives from Crawford's Memoirs the frightful
narrative of that lady's death. Antiq., ii. 59. Walter Scott, in a true poetic vein, conducts his Grey
Brother, *• To haunted Woodhouselee ; " he again touches, with a happy pencil, this terrible incident of
the Scottish history in his admirable poem of " Cadyow Castle." [See Burton's Hist, of Scot., v. 5,
p. 12.]

572 A N A C C 0 U N T [Cli. Y .—Edinburghshire.

Woodhouselee, one of the senators of the College of Justice (ii). Throughout
the whole course of the Esk every scene is interesting. " Roslin's rocky
glen" has been already intimated, and we have merely touched "classic
Hawthornden." We now arrive at Dalkeith, " which all the virtues love."
Among its other honours it enjoys a British name describing its natural
qualities of a «ar?w(j dale. During the 12th and 13th centuries it was pos-
sessed by " the gallant Grahams." As early as the reign of David II. there
was at Dalkeith a baronial castle, which was held by the turbulent Douglasses.
Dalkeith castle had the honour to receive the Princess Margai'et on her way to
her espousals at Edinburgh (o). After the battle of Pinkie it was readily

(n) Of old tliis was called Fullford tower, wliich was enlarged and adorned by the late William
Tytler, the celebrated defender of Mary Stewart. Stat. Acco., xv. 441.

(o) On the iid of August 1503, tbe sayd quene departed from Fast castle, nobly appoynted
and accompanyed ; and at tlie departynge they schot much ordonnauuce, and had very good
chere, soe that every man was content. The said quene, accompanied as before, drew her way
toward Hadington ; and in passyng before Donbare, they schot ordonnaunce for the luffe of her.
She was lodged for that sam nyght in the abbay of the nonnes, ny to Hadington, and her com-
pany at the said place : wher in lyk wys was ordoured provysyon at the Grey Freres, as well for
the company as for the horsyd, as on the day before ; and thorough the countre in sum places
war made bj' force wayes for the cariage, and the grett quantyte of people sembled for to se
the said quene, bringyng with them plaunte of drynke for ychone that wold have it, on paying
therefore. The iiid day of the said monneth, the quene departed from the said abbay, wher sche
and her company had grett chere, and in fayre aray and ordre past thorough the said towne of
Hadington, wher sche was sen of the people in grett myrthe ; and from that she passed to hyr
lodgynge to Acquick [Dalkeith]. Half a mylle ny to the said tonne, sche apoynted hyr rychly
hyr ladyes and lordis, and others of hyr company did the same, and in fayr ordre entred into the
castell, wher cam before hyr without the gatt the lord of the said place, called the Counte of
Morton, honnestly appoynted and accompayned of many gentylmen, in presentynge hyr the kees of
the said castell ; and she was wellcomed as lady and maistresse. Betwyst the two gatts was the
Lady Morton, accompayned of gentylmen and ladyes : the wiche kneeled doune, and the said
quene toke hyr up, and kyssed hyr, and so she was conveyd to hyr chammer within the said
castell, the wich was well ordonned and a strong place After that sche was come and well
appoynted, and also hyr lordes, ladyes, knyghts, gentylmen, gentyl women, the kynge cam arayed
in a jakette of cramsyn velvet, bordered with cloth of gold ; hys lewre behinde hys bake, hys
beerde somethygne long, accompayned of the Eight Reverend Father in God my Lord the Arch
Bischop of Saunte Andrews, brother of the said kynge, and Chauncellor of Scotlaunde, the
Bischop of Castenate, the Erls of Huntly, Argyle, and Lennos, and the Lord Hambleton, cousin
of the said kyng, with many others, lordes, knyghtes, and gentylmen, to the numbre of LX horsys.
The king was conveyed to the quene's chamber, wher she mett hym at her grett chamber dore,
light honorably accompayned. At the mettynge he and she maid grett reverences the one to the
tother, his hed being bare, and they kyssed togeder, and in 13'kwys kyssed the ladyes and others

Sect. IV.— Its Antiquities.'] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 578

surrendeied by the order of George Douglas, the proprietor (p ), Here
Mary Stewart visited Morton, her uiiworthy chancellor, and conferred several
favours on him ((/). In the subsequent century this barony was acquired by
the Scots, a milder race. On the ancient site, Anne, the Duchess of Buccleuch
and Monmouth, built the present house in imitation of the palace of Loo, but
on a smaller scale (r). In the parish of Inveresk, below, is Pinkie house, which
was built by Alexander Seton, the chancellor, who was created Lord Fyvie in
1591, Earl of Dunfermline in 1605, and who died in 1622.

In Cranston parish, was of old Cousland castle, which was burnt by the regent
Somerset (s). In Currie parish, on the estate of Malenie, is Lennox tower,
where the Lennox family never lived {t). On the Gore water, in Borthwick
parish, is the ruin of a strong house which is called Catcune castle, near the
memorable site of the Gadeni town, the scene of many a conflict (u). Upon
the Upper Tyne, in Edinburghshire, is the ruin of Locherwart castle, the
ancient seat of the Hays, the progenitors of the Marquis of Tweeddale. There
are the ruins of Fala tower standing on the northern edge of Fala moss, within
the eastern limit of Edinburghshire. Luggate castle may be seen in its ruins
on Luggate water, in the eastern division of Edinburghshire. In the western
stood Corstorphine castle, the ancient seat of the Foresters of Corstorphine (x).
Merchiston tower near Edinburgh, is often mentioned with fond recollection
as the residence of Napier who invented the loc/arithms, and who dedicated

also. And lie in especiall welcomed tli Erie of Surrey varey hertly. — Then the quene and he went
asyd, and commoned togeder by long space. She held good manere, and he bare heded during the
tym, and many courteysyes passed. Incontynent was the board sett and served. They wasched their
haunds in humble reverences, and after, sett them doune togeder, wher many good devyses war
rehersed. — After the scupper they wasched ageyn, with the reverences : Mynstrells begonne to blowe,
wher daunoed the quene, accompayned by my lady of Surrey. This doon,.the kyng tuke licence of
hyr, for yt was latte, and he went to hys bed at Edinborg, vary well countent of so fayr metting, and
that hee had found the fayr company togader. Lei. Ool., iv., 282.

(p) "On Wednesday the xiiii of September [1548], my lord's grace, saith Patten, ridying back,
eastward, to divers places, took Da-kijth, in his way, where a howse of George Douglasses doth stande :
And comyng somewhat nere it, he sent Soomerset his herald to kuowe, whom kept it, and whether the
kepers would holde it, or yield it to his grace : Answers was made, that there was a Ix parsons
within, whoom their maister lying thereat, the Saturday at night, after the batel, dyd will,
that they, the hous, and all that was in it, should be at my lordes graces commandment, and
pleasure.''

((/) Randolph's Correspondence, in the Paper Office.

(r) Stat. Acco., xii., 25-6. (s) lb., ix., 281. {t) lb., xiii., 326.

(w) Reverend J. Clunie's MS. Account.

{x) In Font's map of Lothian it is represented as a large pile. Blaeu's Atlas Scotise, No. 9.
4 4 D

574 An ACCOUNT [Ch.\.— Edinburghshire.

many of his after thoughts to " musing meditation " on the Apocalypse [y).
But it is in vain to enlarge the list of such antiquities to which chronology
cannot attach, and by which architecture cannot be enlightened. It is apparent
that Mid-Lothian, lying at so great a distance from the hostile confines on
the south, and having the shelter of the Lammermuir and of other ridges, did
not contain the number of hastel houses which we have seen in the border
shires of Eoxburgh and of Berwick.

§ V. Of its Estahlishment as a Shire\ It is more than probable that Mid-
Lothian was placed under the salutary regimen of a sheriff as early as the epoch
of the Scoto- Saxon period, as early indeed as the inti'oduction of the Scoto-
Saixon laws. Under David I. there was a sheriff here, though his extent of
jurisdiction is not very apparent {z). Under Malcohn IV. and WUham the
Lion, the shei-iff of Edinburgh appears more definitely (o). Under Alexander II.
John de Yallibus was sherifi of Edinburgh (Z^). In 1271 Sir William Sinclair
of Roslin was appointed sheriff of Edinburghshire for life, and he is supposed
to have lived till 1300 (c). There is i-eason to believe that Edinburghshire
during those times extended over Haddington on the east and over Linlithgow
on the west (f/). When Edward I. endeavoured to settle the Government of
Scotland in 1305, he appointed Ive de Adeburgh the sheriff of Edinburgh,

{y) There is a view of Merchiston tower in Grose's Antiq., i., 62.

(z) In David's charter to the canons of Holyrood, in Maitland's Hist. Edin., 145, Norman, the
sheriff, is a witness.

(a) In a charter of Malcolm IV., Galfrid, whom he calls " vicecomes mens de Castello Puellarum,"
is mentioned as a perambulator, with other sheriffs of the neighbouring shires. Chart. Newbot., 175.
The Castellum Puellarum was here put for the town ; and the town had not yet obtained the privilege
of having its own sheriff. Hem-y de Brade was sheriff of Edinburgh under William the Lion. lb.,
23-24. He was mentioned as sheriff of Edinburghshire about the year 1200. Crawford's MS.
Gleanings, from the Eecords, 24.

(b) lb., 130 ; Nisbet's Heraldry, 250, of the same series.

(c) Chart. Dunferm. ; Crawfurd's Peer., 381 ; Dougl. Peer., 550. On the 9th of May, 1278,
William de Sinclair, then sheriff of Edinburghshire, was present in the king's chamber, with several
respectable barons, within the Castrum Puellarum, when a resignation of the lands of Bethwalduf was
made into the king's hands. MS. Monast. Scotiae, 112. He also witnessed a charter of Nicholas de
Vetereponte to the hospital of Soltre. Chart. Solt., 13. William de Sinclair witnessed other
chauiers, between 1272 and 1282. Chart. Newbot., 26. He was certainly sheriff of this extensive
shire at the demise of Alexander HI. He was alive in the disastrous year 1296.

(d) In October, 1296, the castle of Edinburgh, with the sheriffdoms of Edinburyh, Linlithcu, and
Haddington, were committed to the charge of Walter de Huntercumbe, a Northumberland baron, by
Edward I. Eym., ii., 731.

Sect. Y.—Iis Establishment as a Shire.] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 575

Haddington and Linlithgow (e). When Randolph surprised the castle of
Edinburgh in 1313, Peter Luband was captain of the ancient fortalice, and
sheriff of Edinburghshire under the English king ( /) In June 1334, Edward
Baliol assigned to Edward III. the town, the castle, and county of Edinburgh,
with the constabularies of Linlithgow and Haddington (g). Edward thereupon
appointed John de Kingston the keeper of the castle and sheriff of Edinburgh-
shire. But such trusts he did not long execute. In 1335, Edward appointed
John de Strivelin the sheriff of Edinburghshire and the keeper of the castle (h).
In 1337, Sir Andrew Moray, the guardian, besieged Edinburgh castle; and
Lothian having submitted to his power, the guardian appointed Laurence Preston
the sheriff of Lothian ; and the sheriffdom was wasted by Preston's efforts to main-
tain his own authority and the quiet of his shire against the English (i). At the
epoch of the restoration of David II., the sheriffdom of Edinburgh continued to ex-
tend over the constabularies of Haddington on the east and of Linlithgow on the
west (k). During the latter part of the reign of David II., Symon de Preston was
sheriff of Edinburghshire (l). Adam Forrester of Corstorphine was sheriff of Edin-
burghshire and of Lothian in 1382, during the reign of Robert II. (m). Robert
III. granted to William Lindsay of the Byres, during his life, the oflBces of sheriff
of Edinburgh and constable of Haddington (n). In 1435, Sir Henry Preston

(e) Eyley's Placita, 504.

(/) Leland's Collect., ii. 546 ; Barbour, 205. Leland miscalls the sheriff, indeed, Leland. Lord
Hailes has adopted into his Annals, ii. 38, the name of Leland for Luband. His real name was
Luband, as we may learn from the record as given by Eyley's Placita, 505 ; he was captain
of Linlithgow castle in 1305, while a small district only was then subject to the English.
Eobert Bruce granted to Eobert Lauder the lands of Golden, within the barony of Dalkeith, which
were of Peter Luband, knight, late convicted of treason against the king. Roberts. Index, 7.
Eobert I. granted Garmylton Dunning to Alexander Stewart, wHich belonged to Peter Luband,
knight. Id. Eobert I. granted to Alexander Stewart the lands of Fischerflatis, which were of
Peter Luband, knight. Id.

(g) Rym., iv. 615.

(h) Ayloffe's Gal., 161-2. He was again appointed to the same trusts in 1336. lb., 169.

(i) Fordun, xiii. 41.

(k) In a charter of David, the son of Walter, the laird of Kinneil, dated the 6th of April 1362,
this barony is declared to be in constabulario de Linlithgow, infra vicecomitatum de Edinburgh.
Chart. Glasgow, 359. In David II.'s confirmation of that charter, the same terms of description are
used. lb., 363.

(/) In 1366, Symon de Preston, the sheriff of Edinburgh, witnessed a deed of Malcolm de Fawside.
Roberts. Index, 79. On the 23rd of February 1368-9, Symon de Preston of Gorton [Goverton of old],
"tunc ten-poris vicecomes de Laudonia?," witnessed a charter of David II. lb., 84. David II. was
restored in 1357, and demised in 1371.

(m) Chart. Aberdeen, 383-6. (n) Eoberts. Index, 142. He died in 1413-14.

576 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

of Craigmiller was the sheriff of Edinburghshire, and provost of the city under
James I. (o). As early as the reign of James III., it became the pi-actice for the
sheriffs of Edinburgh to attend the meetings of parliament (p). They owed that
attendance to the parliament as the highest court. During the treasonous year
1482, Alexander Hepburn, the sheriff of Edinburghshire, appeared before the
parliament, to answer for the erroneous execution of a precept from the king's
chapel, [the chancery] ; and, the Lords found that, being informally executed,
the return ought to be set aside (q). In Julj^ 1488, Patrick, Earl of Bothwell,
who had contributed by his guilty enterprize to the accession of the infant
James IV., was nominated sheriff of Edinburghshire, in fee and heritage (?■) ;
and he died in 1508. He was succeeded by his son Adam, who obtained a
confirmation of his hereditary offices ; which, however, did not comprehend
the sheriffship of Linlithgow, though his patent did extend to Haddington and
Berwick (s). Adam died in 1513, wdth James IV., on Floddon-field. His
son Patrick, Earl of Bothwell, while yet an infant, succeeded him as sheriff
of Edinburghshire, and died in September 1556 (t). He was succeeded by
his son, the notorious James, Earl of Bothwell, who was served heir to his estates
and offices, on the 3rd of November 1556 (m). James, Eai'l of Bothwell, as
sheriff of Edinburgh, opened the parliament on the 29th November 1558,
with the marschal and constable of Scotland, which had now become the
form {x). James, Earl of Bothwell, was one of the commissioners who opened
the parliament, on the 14th of April 1567 (y). It was in this parliament,
which restored so many persons and confirmed so many rights, that confirmed
the estates and offices of the Earl of Bothwell {z). He forfeited soon after
all those estates and offices, by a singular fortune which acquitted him of crime,

(o) Maofarlane's MS. Collections, (^) Pari. Rec, 273.

{q) lb., 283. Hepburn of Whitsun continued for some turbulent years to be the sherifif of Edin-
burglishire, as we may see in the Pari. Eec., 283-301.

(r) lb., 359-97. In 1503, the Earl of Bothwell was sheriff of Lothian and constable of Hadding-
ton ; but Hamilton of Kincavel was then sheriff of Linlithgow. Sir James Balfour's Practicks, 16.
When the Earl of Bothwell was made sheriff of Lothian in fee, his grant and power seems not to have
extended to Linlithgow.

(s) Privy Seal Eec. Lib., fo. 151. Under the Both wells, Henry Naper, James Logan of Eestalrig,
and others, acted as sheriff-deputes. Pari. Eec.

(«) Pari. Eec, 689 ; Lord Hailes' Eem. on the Hist, of Snotland, 173.

(u) See the late Lord Hailes' Eem. on the Hist, of Scotland, 173-4.

(x) Pari. Eec, 729. Mary Stewart, we may remember, had been married to Francis, the dauphin
of France, on the 24th of April 1558 ; and her mother Mary acted as regent of Scotland.

(i/) lb., 749 ; but he is not called sheriff in the Eecord. (z) lb., 754.

Sect. V.—Its Establishment as a Shire.] OpNORTH- BRITAIN. 577

when he was formally tried ; yet, found him guilty, when he was a second
time irregularly accused. Both well's succcessor as sheriff of Edinburgh is not
distinctly known. John Marjoribanks, the sheriff-depute, with the deputies of
the constable and marshal, opened the parliament on the 17th of November
1569 (a). In the subsequent year, James, Earl of Morton, who had by his
crimes contributed so materially both to the acquittal and the forfeiture of
Bothwell, was appointed his successor as sheriff of Edinburghshire {h). He
probably ceased to be sheriff when he was chosen regent in 1572. In 1581,
James VI. created Francis, the infant nephew of the forfeited Bothwell, Earl of
Bothwell and sheriff of Edinburgh, and proprietor of all the other offices and
estates of his uncle (c). After committing several murders and some treasons,
though frequently pardoned by the facility which had made him an earl and
sheriff, Francis, Lord Bothwell, was forfeited in 1593. Sir William Seton,
the fourth son of George, Lord Seton, was now appointed successor to that
unworthy noble (cZ). Sir George probably had for his successor. Sir Ludowic
Lauder of Over-Gogar, who was undoubtedly the principal sheriff of Edin-
burghshire in 1630 (e). William, the first Earl of Dalhousie, acted as sheriff
of this shire during the civil wars of Charles I.'s reign. John, the Earl of
Lauderdale, is said to have been appointed sheriff of Edinburghshire at the
Restoration [f). His younger brother, Charles Maitland, who succeeded to
the earldom, was appointed on the 12th of November 1672, sheriff of Edin-
burghshire during his life, with power to appoint deputies and other officers ((/) :

(a) Pari. Eec, 812.

(6) Crawfurd's Peer., 352, "who quotes the charter in Morton's Aj'ohives.

(c) Crawfurd and Douglas Peerages. At that epoch, the suits of Edinburgh and the suits of Had-
dington were called separately in Parliament, though the two districts had but one sheriff. Wight on
Pari. App., 431-2. This fact proves clearly that the districts and offices and jurisdictions were
different, in the comtemplation of Parliament.

{d) MS. History of the Seton family. He continued sheriff of Edinburgh in 1G13. Tast Eoll
Eecord.

(e) Sir Ludowic, as sheriff principal of Edinburgh, held a special court on the 25tli of May
1630, for serving William, the Earl of Monteith, heir to David, Earl of Strathearu. Hay's
Vindication, 136.

(/) Douglas Peer., 395, mentions this appointment, without adequate authority. He was certainly
appointed constable of the castle of Edinburgh, as we know from the inscription on his tomb-stone.
Crawfurd's Peer., 255.

{g) Warrant Book in the Paper Office. On the 14th of November 1682, the Earl of Dalhousie was
appointed sheriff during pleasure. Id. On the 12th of December 1682, George Gordon, the first
Earl of Aberdeen, was appointed sheriff of Edinburgh during pleasure. Id. He became President of
the Session in 1681, and Lord Chancellor in 1682.

578 AnACCOUNT [Ck. lY .—Edinburghshire.

and lie died upon tlie 9tli of June 1691 (r/). On the 4th of July 1684, the
Earl of Perth was appohited Sheriff of Edinburgh during pleasure (li), in the
room of the Earl of Aberdeen (i). He was re-appointed on the accession of
James VII. (Ic). He had been made Justice General in 1682 ; Chancellor in
16S4, having also superseded the Earl of Aberdeen as chancellor as well as
Sheriff. At the E,evolution he was imprisoned, he was long confined, and
bemg discharged at the end of four years, on condition of expatriation, he
went first to Rome, thence to his old master at St. Germains, where he was
created Duke of Perth, and died in 1716 (Z). King William's government
seems to have been in no haste to appoint a new Sheriff for Edinburgh in the
room of the imprisoned Perth (jn). In February 1703, William, the fifth Earl
of Dalhousie, was appointed Sheriff of Edinburgh for life (n). On the 12th of
August 1718, Charles Earl of Lauderdale, was nominated Sheriff of Edinburgh
during pleasure ; but he continued to execute this trust till his death in
1744 (o). In August 1744, James Earl of Lauderdale was appointed his
father's successor, and he was the last under the ancient regimen ( p). Yet,
as he only enjoyed this office during pleasure, he could not make a claim when
jurisdictions were to be abolished by purchase. In 1748, Charles Maitland of
Pitrichie was appointed the shertS'-depute, with a salary of £250 a year (9),
under the new system, the happiest change in the progress of this trust, though
it was not perfect.

But the power of the Sheriff of Mid-Lothian, and the extent of his authority,
appear to have been limited in every age by various jurisdictions within his
shire. The castle of Edinburgh had always, probably, a constable, whatever

(jj) He absented himself from the meeting of the Estates of Scotland, which carried into effect the
Eevolution. Proceedings of the Convention, No. 5.

(h) Id. (t) Warrant Book of that date.

\k) lb., of the 26th February, 1685.

(I) He had the yet higher honour of assisting by his influence the laborious Innes in making his
curious Collections for the Scottish history.

(jn) On the 1st of October, 1689, the magistrates of Lauder complained to the Privy Council, that
in respect there is neither sheriff nor sheriff-depute in Berwickshire, their lordships would consider
how the same might be remedied. Proceedings in Scotland, No. 61. June 17th, 1690, Sir Patrick
Hume of Polwarth's commission, as Sheriff of Berwick, was read in council, and recorded. lb., 119.
But there seemed to be no Sheriff appointed for Edinburghshire at that late period.

(n) Dougl. Peer., 17-i ; but the Earl became colonel of the Scots regiment of guards in Spain, and
died in 1710.

(o) MS. List of sheriffs in the Paper Office.

{p) Scots Mag., 1744, 395. (5) lb., 1748, 155.

Sect. Y.—Its Establishment as a Shire.'] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 579

his power may have been. As early as 1278, he appears to have exercised a
civil jm-isdiction (r). Thus, William de Kingorn continued Constable of the
castle of Edinburgh, administering a civil jurisdiction at the sad epoch of
Alexander III.'s demise. The office of Constable of Edinburgh castle was con-
tinned by Edward I., when he arrogated the superiority of Scotland (s). This
mixed authority of the Constable of Edinburgh castle probably continued
under Robert Bruce and his feeble successor (t). The dignity of the Constable
must have suffered diminution, when the castle was demolished by the policy
of Bruce ; yet, had it in prior times, perhaps, power enough to give the deno-
mination of constabulary to the whole shire of Edinburgh, which became, under
David II., divided into several wards (u).

From those obscure intimations with regard to the constabulary of the castle,
it is natural to advert to the jurisdictions of the town. It was James III. who,
in November 1482, from grateful recollection of the effectual aid of tlie citizens,
gave the corporation the offices of Sheriff and Coroner within its specified limits,
with power of holding courts and trying criminals, and of receiving the emolu-
ments of such jurisdictions (x). Under all those authorities the Provost of

(r) In 1278 Jolin de StrathecWn resigned tlie lands of Bethwalduf into the hands of Alexander,
in., "in camera domini regis, apud castrum puellarum de Edinburgh," before William Clerk,
the Constable of the castle. MS. Monast. Sootise, 112. In the same year William de Kingorn
was Constable of the castle of Edinburgh. Chart. Newbotle, No. 23. On the 1st of July, 1284,
Thomas, the son of William de Lamberton, resigned the lands of Easter Crags of Gorgie into the
hands of Alexander HI., "apud Castrum Puellarum," before William de Kingorn, "tunc Constabulario
dicti Castri." lb., 49.

(s) On the 8th of July 1292, Edward I. received the fealty of various persons, " in Capella
Castri Puellarum," in presence of Eadulf Basset, the Constabnkirius of the same castle.
Eym., ii., 569. In 1299 and 1300 John De Kingston was Constable of the castle and Sheriff of
Edinburghshire. Wardrobe Account, 114. On the 13th of May 1301, John De Kingston, the
Constable of Edinburgh Castle, was empowered to receive the submission of various people to
Edward I. Ibid., 888. On the 26th of October 1305, John de Kingston was appointed one of the
Custodes Scotise. lb., 970.

(t) On the 16th of November 1367, David II. granted to Symon Eeid, the Constable of Edinburgh.
Castle, the forest of Lochendorb, which had fallen to him by the forfeiture of the late John Comyn,
knight. Eoberts. Index, 83.

(ii) David II. granted to David of Liberton the oflSce of Serjeant in the overward of the constabiilaiy of
Edinburgh, with the lands of Over-Liberton to the same pertaining. lb., 63. These were called the
sergeants lands, and continued to bear this name under James VI. and Charles I. Inquisitiones
Speciales in Edinburghshire.

(a;) Maitland's Edin., 9, from the charter. This was confirmed by James IV. in March 1509-10.
lb., 242, and those charters were confirmed and enlarged by the golden charter of James VI., wh&
speaks of the town and its territory as a sheriffwick. lb., 247.

580 AnACCOUNT [Ch. \.— Edinburghshire.

Edinburgh is high sheriff, coroner, and admiral, within the city, its territories,
and within its dependency of Leith (y).

The Abbot of Holyrood, under the charter of David I., was entitled to
his court as fully as the abbots of Dunfei'mline and of Kelso enjoyed theirs (z).
This jurisdiction seems to have been much extended by Robert III., both in
extent and power, by giving the Abbot a right of regality over all his lands in
whatever sheriffclom they might be situated, particularly over the barony of
Broughton in Edinburghshire (a). These jurisdictions seem to have been

acquired by the trustees of Heriot's Hospital. At the epoch of the abolition
of hereditary jurisdiction, the trustees of Heriot's Hospital claimed £5,000 for
the regality of Broughton, but were allowed only £486 19s. 8d.

David I. granted to the monks of Dunfermline the manor of Inveresk, the
lands of Carbarrin [Carberry] and Smithton [Smeaton] in Mid-Lothian,
with a baronial jurisdiction over those and other lands (6). As the town and
port of Musselburgh were comprehended in the manor of Inveresk, the ter-
ritories granted were called the lordship and regality of Musselburgh (c). The
monks of Dunfermline enjoyed the loi'dship and regality of Musselbui-gh till
the Eeformation : and falling to James VI., he granted this ancient property
and jurisdiction to his Chancellor, Sir John Maitland, who was created Lord
Thirlestane in 1590, and died in 1595. Happy ! had the sacrilegious spoils
of the Scottish church been ever as well bestowed by James VI. as they now
were on so honest and useful a minister. In September 1649, John, the Earl of
Lauderdale, was served heir to his father in the lordship and regality of
Musselburgh, with other lands, and the superiority over the vassals of the
lordship of Musselburgh, " et jure regalitatis ejusdem (d)." In 1709, the
lordship and regality of Musselburgh were sold by the Earl of Lauderdale to

(y) Arnot's Hist., Edin., 497. (z) Mait. Hist., Edin., 148.

(a) lb., 157. Archibald, the Abbot of Holyrood, granted a charter to the monks of Newbotle of
an acre of land "in vico nostro nuncupate St. Leonards' gate, infra regalitatem nostrum de
Broughton.'' Chart. Newbot., 7 ; and they held regular courts of regality like other barons.
Inquisitiones Speciales, 1636, 1642.

(b) Chart. Dunfermline.

(c) On the 23rd of March 1503-4, a cause was moved in Parliament against William Froge
and George Hill, the bailies of Musselburgh, for their misconduct in serving certain writs of
inquest, which had issued from the chapel [the chancery] of the Abbot of Dunfermline, on a tenement
in that town. The Lords found that the inquest had erred in serving the writs, and set aside the
retour. Pari. Eec, 501.

((Z) Inquisit. Speciales from the Rec. The regality of_Mus3elburgh paid of old into the Exchequer
yearly, £2. MS. Excheq. Keg.

Sect.V.— Its Establishment as a Shire.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 581

the Ducliess of Buccleuch. In 1747 the Duke of Buccleuch claimed for this
regahty, when all such jurisdictions were to be resumed by purchase, £3,000 ;
but for all his claims he was only allowed £3,400 sterling.

The Douglases of Lothian obtained in early times a baronial jurisdiction
over many lands in several shires, which was called the regaliUj of Dalkeith (<>).
In 1541, James, the third Earl of Morton, obtained a charter from James V.
confirming this regalitij and those lands (_/). The notorious James, Eai'l of
Morton, the Chancellor of Scotland, obtained in 1564, from Mary Stewart,
a confirmation of all those lands and jurisdictions [g). William, Earl of Morton,
and the Lord of Dalkeith, was served heir, in November 1G06, to his grand-
father, in his earldom, in the lordship of Dalkeith, and in his various jurisdic-
tions {h). In January 1682, George, Earl of Dalhousie, was appointed bailie
of the regality of Dalkeith (?'). After the death of Monmouth, James, his son,
was created Earl of Dalkeith. His mother, the Duchess of Buccleuch and
Monmouth, died in 1732, aged 81, when she was succeeded by Francis, her
grandson {k). For the regality of Dalkeith, the duke claimed in 1747, £4,000 ;
but for all his claims he was allowed only £3,400.

The barony of Ratho came into the possession of the Stewart of Scotland
when he married Marjory, the daughter of Robert Bruce, who gave it with
her in marriage. When Robert II., the son of that marriage, ascended the
throne in 1371, Ratho and the whole lands of the Stewart being formed into
a regality, were given as the appanage of his son and heir as Stewart. In
December 1404, Robert III. granted to his son James, the Stewart, the barony
of Ratho and all the other estates of the Stewart of Scotland, which were now
formed into a royal jurisdiction (/). When the sheriffdom of Renfrew was settled,
by dismembering Lanarkshire, the barony of Ratho was disjoined from Lothian
and annexed to" Renfrewshire.

The knights of St. John of Jerusalem enjoyed a regal jurisdiction over their
barony of Ballentrodo in Mid-Lothian, which was comprehended in their

(e) Eoberts. Index, 40-65-86-88. (/) Dougl. Peer., 492. {g) Pari. Eec, 763.

(h) Inquisit. Special, from the Eec.

{i) Dougl. Peer., 174, quotes the cliarter in Lord DalLousie's Archives, but the peerage
writer forgot to mention by whom the earl was appointed. He was probably nominated by the
Duchess of Monmouth. On the 22nd of November 1687, the Duchess of Monmouth, saith
Fountainhall, Decisions, i., 481, sent a letter to the privy council to put out one Anderson, who had
set up a meeting-house within her hurgJt of regalitij of Dalkeith, which the chancellor directed,
threatening the preacher with prison.

(Jc) Dougl. Peer., 104. (Z) See the charter in Oarmiobael's Tracts, 103.

4 4E

582 AnACCOUNT [CB. Y.— Edinburghshire.

regality of Torphichen. When the knights of St. John had by the Reforma-
tion been converted into temporal lords, both the barony and the regality be-
came invested in them as lords of parliament (m). The Knights Templars had
also a jurisdiction over their lands within Edinburghshire. This jurisdiction
seems to have been acquired by the family of Primrose, and in June 1651,
James, the son of David Primrose, was served heir to his father in the Templars'
lands of Cramond Regis, and also in the hereditary office of bailie of the
Templars' lands within this ample shire {n). The Archbishop of St. Andrews
had a regality over his extensive estates in this shire, which he executed by a
baihe, as we have already seen, who sold his office.

Before the Reformation the abbots of Kelso had a jurisdiction over their
barony of Duddingston, which they carried into effect by a bailie of regality (o).
Over the barony of Preston-hall there was a regality, which the Duchess of
Gordon claimed in 1747, and for which she was paid £25 9s. lOd. sterling.
For Primrose regality over the lands of Carrington, Lord Dalmeny was allowed
£101 13s. 7d. sterling. In 1747, Sir Robert Dickson claimed a regality over
the lands of Carberry, but his pretensions were not sustained. In May 1542,
James V. granted to Nicol de Ramsay of Dalhousie, a power of justiciary over
his lands of Dalhousie and Carrington in Edinburghshire, and Foulden in
Berwickshire, but this power seems to have expired with himself in 1554 (^j).
In November 1362, David II. granted to John de Edmonstoun, during his life,
the office of coroner in Edinburghshire (g). In the subsequent century the
provost of Edinburgh was both sheriff and coroner of the town, as we have
already seen. In addition to all those privileged authorities, there existed from
the early reign of Malcolm IV. a Justiciary of Lothian, who exercised a much
greater power than the Sheriff of Lothian, and who must have restrained his
subordinate jurisdiction. Of old, the power of the diocesan bishop of St. Andrews,
both ecclesiastical and baronial, must have often embarassed the sheriff. The
authorities of the Diocesan ceased when the Reformation began. In February
1563, during the administration of Murray, was instituted the commissary court
of Edinburgh in place of the bishop's officials, with a double jurisdiction,
ordinary and universal. Its ordinary powers are exercised over its own limits,

(m) Inquisit. Spec, under 1G18, from the Eec. Lord TorpLicen was paid for liis jurisdiction in
1747, £134 12s. Gd.

(n) Inquisit. S^eciales from the Record. (o) Cbart Kelso, 544.

(;;) Doug). Peer., 172. (j) Eoberts. Index, 73.

Sect. Yl.—7ts Civil Histori/.] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 583

but it is also the general consistorial court of Scotland (r). It is under this
universal power, perhaps, that Edinburgh is deemed the communis patria of
Scotsmen when abroad; whence every prudent Scotsman, saith President Stair,
ought to have a resident procurator (s). But the College of Justice is the king's
consistorial court of supreme jurisdiction. Such then were the peculiar authori-
ties which either limited the power or obstructed the proceedings of the sheriff
within this shire (t). The final abolition of all those hereditary jurisdictions
was one of the happiest events in the diversified annals of Mid-Lothian.

§ VI. Of its Civil History.'] Next to the colonization of Mid-Lothian by
successive settlers of different lineages and dissimilar tongues, the objects most
worthy of a rational curiosity are the castle and the city of Edinburgh («). The
castle, as we may learn from its Celtic name of Mai-dyn, was a fortlet of the
British Gadeni during the earliest times. As a strength of the original people,
it may have existed a thousand years before the Northumbrian Edwin repaired
its defences and gave it his name {x). It was probably relinquished during the
reign of the Scottish Indulph [y). It was resigned to Malcolm II. by Earl
Eadulph in 1020 A.D. (2). In this castle died the worthy Margaret, the widowed
consort of Malcolm Canmore, in November 1093 («); and on the 8th of January
1106-7, in Dun-Eden, died Edgar, their son, after a short and unimportant
reign {l>). Whether his successor, Alexander I., ever resided in that castle is

(r) Maitland's Hist. Edin., 377; and for the commissariate jurisdiction, see Arnot's Edin., 491,
who was a lawyer.

(s) Institute, 659.

(<) Eegularly, saith Sir George Mackenzie, those who dwell in regalities are not subject to the
sheriff. Observ., 42.

(ii) Caledonia, i., b. i., c. 11 ; b. ii., e. 3 ; b. iii., c. 6.

(a;) Edwin flourished from 617 A.D. to 634, as we know from Savill's Fasti in his Scriptores Post
Bedam.

(y) Chron., No. 3, in Innes's Crit. Essay, 787. Indulph reigned eight years, from 953 to 961 a.d.,
Caledonia, i., 375.

(z) lb., 402.

(a) lb., 420. There was a chapel dedicated to the pious Margaret, soon after her decease, within
the castle which she had dignified by her residence, and edified by her death. This chapel is
mentioned by David I. in his charter at Holyrood. Robert II. granted to St. Margaret's chapel, with-
in the castle of Edinburgh, an yearly rent of eight pounds sterling out of the customs of Ediuburah.
This donation was confirmed by Robert III. Roberts. Index, p. 151. In De Wit's map of Edinburgh
the chapel of Edinburgh Castle appears very prominent to the eye, though without any of the adjuncts
of a chapel.

(b) Reg. of St. Andrews, in Innes's Essay, and Caledonia, 618.

584 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

quite luicertain, though there cannot be any doubt whether he held Edinburgh
as a toAvn of the royal demesne (c).

It was during the beneficent reign of David I., -nho succeeded his brother
Alexander in 1124, that we see the CasleUum Putllarum possessed by David
in all the settled splendour of a royal residence, while the town was merely the
demesne of the king {d). Edinburgh, under the administration of David I.,
appears to have been as populous and important as Berwick-upon-Tweed,
which was then the largest and most commercial in North-Britain. Edin-
burgh under David was one of the quatuor burgorum which formed a
commercial judicatory for commercial matters. Under him it probably
acquired an augmentation of people ; as we see him erect a new mill as well as
a new church in its vicinage. Soon after his accession he conferred his
well-known charter on the canons of Holyrood (e). He empowered the
canons of Holyrood to build a town between their church and his burgh :
and hence arose the suburb, which is so well known as the Canongate ;
whose burgesses were enabled by David I. to buy and sell and traffic
as freely and fully as his own burgesses of Edinburgh. Yet are we not to
infer that Edinburgh was a royal burgh in the modern sense. It was then a
town in demesne, by another step it became a town in firm. It obtained this
step probably from William the Lion {/). David often resided in the

(d) This castle continued to be the frequent residence of the Scottish kings, whatever Maitland may
intimate to the contrary, till subsequent times. The fact is established by the many charters of all
those kings, wliich were dated within its walls. See the chartularies, throughout. Maitland supposes
Edinburgh town to have been made a royal burgh by David I. The fact is, that it was a demesne
of the king, even before the accession of Alexander I. For Alexander conferred on the abbej- of
Dunfei-mline one mansion in Edeiisburgh. Chart. Scone, No. 1. la the foundation charter of Holy-
rood by David I., we see it from many notices still more distinctly as a town in demesne. He calls it
his burgh. William the Lion confirmed to the monastery of Dunfermline an annual rent of a hundred
shillings, " de firma burgi de Edinburg." Chart. Dunferm. This grant was confirmed by Alexander
n. Id. The first charter which was ever granted to Edinburgh was that of Robert I., dated the 28th
of May 1 329. Maitland, p. 7. There are a great variety of grants by subsequent kings, out of the
cuMoJits of Edinburgh. Robertson's Index. Yet, had it some sort of corporate body, when the
alderman, et tote la cnmmune, swore fealty to Edward in 1296. Prynne. The first ^j)'oro«< who appears
in record is John Quitness, who was a witness to Robert II's. charter in 1378. Hay's Vindic. 26,
with Crawford's MS. Note.

(e) The charter is in Maitland's Edinburgh ; and there is an Inspeximus Copy of it by Robert II.
in Hay's Vindication of Elizabeth More, p. 125. " A° 1128, coepit fundari ecclesia sanctae crucis de
Edenesburch. " Chron. Sanct. Crucis.

(/) K.William granted to the monks of Dunfermline 100 shillings yearly, " de firma burgi de
Edinburg," on the day of Malcolm's demise. Chart. Dunfermline. This was confii-med by Alexander
III. Id.

Sect. YI.--Jis Civil Histonj.'] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 585

maiden castle; as we know from the dates of so many of his charters. Malcolm IV.
his successor (a), frequently resided in this castle ; as we may learn from the
same circumstance {h). Yet, he recognised Scone to be the metroj)ol{s of his
kingdom. William the Lion, though he generally dwelt at Haddington, resided
sometimes in the maiden castle (c). In 1174, in order to regain his liberty, he
surrendered Edinburgh castle to Henry II., as we have seen. In 1177, a
council of the Scotican church was assembled at Edinburgh, by Vivian, the
papal legate (d). Another council of the Scotican church was assembled at
Edinburgh in 1180 (e). On the 3rd of September 1186, William married
Ermengard at Woodstock, when Henry II. restored to him " Castellum Pudla-
rum," which William immediately assigned to Ermengai-d in dovser, with a
hundred librates of rent and forty knights fees (/'). A convention of prelates
and barons assembled at Edinburgh in 1190, who gave to William an aid of
10,000 marks {g). By him Edinburgh was converted into a ^^lace of mintage,
as we know from Cardonnel, and as we have already seen (/i).

After the demise of William in 1214, at the end of a lengthened reign,
Alexander II., a youth of seventeen, came to Edinburgh where he held a
parliament, and confii^med the offices of his chancellor, his chamberlain, and
of other dignities {i). Edinburgh seems not to have felt any of the wretched
ness of the war, which immediately ensued between Alexander and King
John. The English sovereign certainly burnt Dunbar and Haddington ; saying
that " he would smoke the little red fox out of his covert ; " But, his rage
does not appear to have reached Edinburgh. Peace was restored in 1219, when
Alexander engaged on oath, that he would marry Joan the daughter of the
poisoned John, if he could obtain her consent. On the 25th of June 1221,
Alexander accordingly married Joan, the princess of England. Yet, though
she were provided in a jointure of £1000 of land-rent, Edinburgh seems to
have contributed nothing to her matrimonial provision IJc). The king and
queen soon after came to Edinburgh where they for some time resided (/).

(a) See the chartularies tliroughout. (i) Id. (c) Id.

{(1) Innes's Crit. Essay, 589 ; Lord Hailes' Councils, 5.

(e) Daljymple's Col., 325 ; Lord Hailes' Councils, 17. (/) Hoveden, G32.

{g) Fordun, 1. viii., c. 50 ; yet Maitland says the first time that the parliaments met at Edinburgh
was in the year 1436. Hist. Edin., 6.

(A) Numismata, pi. i. (;) Ford., 1. ix., 27. (k) Eym., i., 252. •

{I) MS. Monast. Scotife, 206. And Alexander 11. often resided in Edinburgh Castle throughout his
reign, whence he gave many of bis charters which sometimes are dated at Edinhn-fjh, often at the
Castrum Pucllarum, and not unfrequently at Castellum Puellarum. The charters of Alexander H.
testify those facts.

586 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

In 1239, a general council of the Scotican churcli was assembled by the papal
legate at Edinburgh (?n). But it must be acknowledged that this castle and
town did not partake much either in the miseries or the hilarities of the reign
of Alexander II., one of the ablest and best of the Scottish kings.

Alexander III. also made Edinburgh castle not unfrequently the place of his
residence (n). Alexander married Mai-garet, the daughter of Henry III., at
York, on the 26th of December 1251. They seem to have made Edinburgh
castle the chief place of their royal residence (o). The infant queen was not
pleased with her situation. She complained in 1255 of the castle of Edin-
burgh as a solitary place, without verdure, and unwholesome from its vicinity
to the sea. A physician was sent by the king and queen of England to
visit their daughter in her dreary abode (p). He probably reported that such
a castle was not unwholesome, whatever grievances the youthful queen of a
youthful husband might feel or feign (q). At this epoch the whole nation
was divided into two potent factions, the Scottish, with Walter Cumyn, the
Earl of Menteith, at its head, and the English, with Patrick, Earl of Dunbar,
for its chief While the Scottish faction were preparing to hold a parliament
at Stirling, the Earl of Dunbar with his followers entered the CasteUum
Puellarum, took charge of the king and queen, and expelled the opposite
party (r). This is the earliest instance of two factions meeting in hostile col-
lision within the limits of Edinburgh. We have thus seen that Alexander III.
not only resided in this castle but frequently held his courts in it for trans-
acting juridical affairs. On the 28th of June 1284, Thomas of Lamberton
resigned into the king's power the lands of Easter Crags of Gorgie, in the

(in) Innes"s Crit. Essay, 592 ; Lor4 Hailes' Councils, 14.

(n) There is a cliarter of Alexander III. dated on tbe 3rd of June 12.j0, " apud Castrum Puellarum."
MS. Col. of Charters. On tbe 2Gth of March 1279, Alexander wrote a letter to Edward I. dated
" apud Castrum Puellarum." Eym., ii., 1064.

(o) M. Paris, 907. (p) Id. (-2) lb., 908.

(r) Chron. Melrose, 220, which speaks of the CasteUum PueUarum as the castle of Edinburgh
in 1255. Lord Hailes, with this veracious chronicle before him, did not sufficiently attend to this
fact. An., i., 166-7. On the 9th of May 1278, in the king's chamber, "apud Castrum Puellarum
de Edinburgh," in the chamber called " the blessed Margaret's chamber," John de Strathechin
resigned into the king's hands the lands of Bethwalduf, in the presence of William Clerk, the constable
of the castle of Edinburgh. MS. Monast. Scotiae, 112; Chart. Dunferm., fo. 15 ; Dalzell's Monast.
Antiq., 54. We may thus see that the worthy Margaret was still remembered in the traditions of
the country, at the end of two centuries after she had in this chamber resigned her last
breath.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.} OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 587

presence of William de Kingorn, the constable of this castle (s). In a juridical
proceeding of James, the Stewart of Scotland, on the 26th of January, 1284-5,
we may see still more distinctly that an exchange of lands was effected before
the king himself, " in aula castelli de Edinburg, ad colloquium domini regis {t),"
in the presence of William de Soulis, then justiciary of Lothian, and other
magnates ScoticB. Before the eventful demise of Alexander III., on the 19th of
March 1285-6, the maiden castle had been converted into the safe depositary of
the principal records and of the appropriate regalia of the kingdom {u).

From that dii'eful event Edinburgh pai-took of the wasteful revolutions of
many years. The proceedings of the custodes regni, with the testament of
Alexander, were deposited, with many public papers, in the castle (x). In June
1291, the Castrum Puellarum was surrendered with the town to Edward I.,
as lord paramount of the whole kingdom. On the 8th of July, 1292, Edward
received the fealty of Adam, the abbot of Holyrood, "in capella Castri Puella-
rum [y)." On the 29th of the same month, after Edward's return from the
North, he received the fealty of the abbot of Newbotle, and other respectable
persons, " apud Castrum Puellarum, in cajjella ejusdem castri (z)." After the
battle of Dunbar had decided the gallant struggle for the nation's independence,
Edward I. advanced through Lothian to Edinburgh in May 1296, when he
compelled the obstinate castle to surrender to his overpowering force ; and
when he again received within its chapel the unwilling submission of many
persons. On the 28th of August 1296, William de Dederyk, alderman of the
burgh of Edinburgh, "e tote la commune de mesme burg," swore fealty to
Edward I. (a). Edinbui-gh had now risen from being a town in demesne to
be a corporation. In October 1296, the castle of Edinburgh, with the Sheriff-
dom of Edinbm'gh, Linlithgow, and Haddington, were committed by Edward I.
to the charge of Walter de Huntercombe (h). He appears to have been super-

(s) Chart. Newbot., 49. (t) Autograph Charter, in my librar)'.

{ii) Ayloffe's Oalend., 330. Herein may be seen a schedule, dated at Edinburgii, in the vigil of
St. Bartholomew, 1291, of the Ornamenla, which were found in thesiuiria Castri de Edinburgh.
Among other regalia there was found, '•' Unum Scriniuui, in quo reponitur crux que vocatur la hlake
rode.'' And see other notices to the same effect in the same Calendar, 335-8, wherein the castle
is called Castrum Puellarum. We may now infer from all those notices that the castle of Edinburgh,
at that sad epoch, was promiscuously called Castrum Puellarum, Castellum Puellarum, and Castrum
Edinburgi.

{x) lb., 335.

(y) Rym., ii., 569. Among other persons who were present on that singular occasion was Eadulpk
Basset, constabulary of the same castle. Id.

{z) lb., 571. (a) Prynne, iii., 65.3. (i) lb., 731.

588 A N A C C OIJ N T [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

seded before the yeai' 1299 bj John de Kingston in those confidential trusts (6).
He was also empowered on the 13th of May 1301 to receive the submission of
the neighbouring inhabitants (c) ; and on the 26th of October 1305 he was
appointed by Edward one of the Custodes Scotice (d).

In the meantime Mid-Lothian and its castle furnished few events for the
topogi'aphical historian to record. Hostile armies may have traversed the plains
of Lothian, and domestic feuds may have sometimes disturbed its quiet ; but
throughout many a year there was neither battle to engage the swoi-ds of the
youth nor siege to incite the anxieties of the old. During the succession war,
the English armies had advanced and I'etreated through Mid-Lothian during
the struggles of a gallant people without any uncommon event, till hostilities
had almost ceased in the usual languor of frequent truces ; but when the peace
ended at the beginning of the year 1303, Edward sent a fresh army into
Scotland under the command of Jolin de Segrave. The English advanced
towards Edinburgh in three divisions. The first had scarcely appi-oached to
Roslin on the 24th of February 1302-3, under the conduct of Segrave, when
it was attacked by some chosen bands under Cumyn, the guardian, and Simon
Eraser of Tweeddale : Segrave was discomfited and wounded. His second
division, which advanced to support him, only shared his misfortune ; and the
third division also advancing, a sharp conflict ensued, with very doubtful suc-
cess. The events of this day are blazoned by the historians of the one nation,
and thrown into shade by the annalists of the other (e).

But still more eventful scenes were now at hand. In 1306 Robert Bruce
ascended the throne of his ancestors, which he left to his posterity after many
a gallant conflict. Edward I. died in 1307, crying out for vengeance, and
inciting perseverance with his last breath. It was not, however, till the 14th
of March 1312-13, that the castle of Edinburgh was taken by assault under
the able conduct of Randolph, the king's nephew. In 1322, Edward II.
advanced to Edinburgh, but he was obliged to retire for want of pi-ovisions ;
and his soldiers plundered the abbey of Holyrood. The foui'teenth parliament
of Robert Bruce assembled in the abbey of Holyrood on the 8 th of March

(J) In the winter of 1299-1300 great quantities of various stores, for enabling him to perform those
trusts, Tvei-e placed in liis hands, as we may see in the Wardrobe Account.

(d) lb., 970. And when Edward issued his well-known ordinance, for the government of
Scotland iu 1305, he continued John de Kingston in the command of Edinburgh castle. R3-ley"s
Placita, 505.

(«) Fordun, 1. xii., c. 2 ; Hemingford, i.. IP 8.

Sect. YL—Its Civil Historij.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 589

1326-7 {/). The last parliament of this interesting reign met at Edinburgh,
on the 17th of March 1327-8 ; wherein the representatives of the burghs
were first admitted among the estates, and the treaty of Northampton was con-
firmed, which acknowledged the independence of Scotland. In the last year of
his important life, Robert Bruce granted a charter to the people of Edinburgh,
which recognised their ancient privileges and added new {g). Edinburgh, at
that epoch, was still an unwalled town, having few people and little impor-
tance : yet was it a place of mintage to Ptobert T. (h).

David II., the infant heir of Robert Bruce and his kingdom, were left
with pretensions on them, by Edward Baliol, the pretender to the crown. He
was suppoi'ted by Edward III., who was equally ambitious and as overbearing
as his grandfather. The Scottish king was little able to contend with such
powerful pretenders. On the 10th and 12th of Februaiy 1333-4, Edward
Baliol pretended to hold a parliament within the chapel of the abbey of Holy-
rood, at Edinburgh. The partizans, who were then assembled, agreed with
him to surrender the independence of the crown, and to grant to Edwai-d III.
a large share of Southern Scotland(i). On the 12th of June 1334, the pre-
tender assigned to that ambitious king the town, the castle, and the county of
Edinburgh, with the constabularies of Haddington and Linlithgow {k). Three
days afterward. Edward III. appointed John de Kingston the keeper of the
castle and the sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh (Z). While Edward Baliol
marched into the west from Edinburofh durinof November 1334, Edward III,
led his army into Lothian, where he domineered a while without control.
He at length marched forward to other objects ; and Count Guy of Namur,
who landed meantime at Berwick with a reinforcement of men-at-arms in
the pay of Edward, advanced to Edinburgh, thinking that such a warrior as
Edward had not left an enemy in his rear. But the Earls of Murray and
March, and Sir William Ramsay, attacked him on the burgh moor. A
desperate conflict long continued, even on the castle hill and in the streets.
The count at length capitulated (?«). At this town, however, the king of

(/) Eoberts. Index, 28.

(g) Mait. Hist. Edin., 7. Eobert I.'s charter was dated the 2Sth of May 1329.

(h) Cardonnel, p. 50, and pi. ii. The legend was villa Edinbiig, ior want of space upon a very small
coin.

(.) Eym., iv.. 591-3. {k) lb., 615. (/) lb., 617.

(«) Fordun, 1. siii., c. 35 ; Eym., iv., G58 ; Lord Hailes' An., ii., 180-1.
4 4F

590 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

England spent much of his time in the autumn of 1335 (?i). In 1336,
Edward III. directed the castle of Edinburgh to be rebuilt, which Bruce is said
to have razed (o). In the same year he granted to John de Stryvelyn the
custody of Ediuburgii castle and the sheriffship of Edinburghshire {p).

In 1337, Sir Andrew Moray, the guardian of Scotland, on his return from
wasting Cumberland, laid siege to the castle of Edinburgh. The English
hastened from the borders to relieve it. William Douglas encountered them in
a sharp conflict at Crichton, in Mid-Lothian. He seems to have obliged the
enemy to retire, though he was badly wounded. Yet, the guardian raised the
siege, owing to whatever cause {q). In the meantime, Lothian submitted to
him ; and he made Lawrence Preston sheriff of a country, which was wasted
by the successive efforts both of the foe and friend (r). A famine ensued in
the land ; and during the same year Edward III. asserted his claim to France,
which, occupying much of his attention, brought great relief to Scotland. The
English retained possession of Edinburgh castle throughout the three subsequent
years. But William Ramsay of Dalhousie, one of the most enterprising officei-s
of an active age, issuing frequently from the caves of Hawthornden, expelled
the English, and even followed them into Northumberland. The castle of
Edinburgh was at length taken on the 17th of April 1341, by the stratagem
of Bullock, and the enterprise of Douglas of Lidisdale (s). David II., return-
ing from France, now invaded England with a numerous army. But he was
defeated and taken m 1346, at the battle of Durham [t). After this sad
disaster, Edward Baliol led the Gallowaymen into Lothian, which they wasted
with fire and sword {«). But the war of Scotland declined into frequent
cessations. Edward III., indeed, advanced with his army to Edinburgh in
1356. But the dispersion of his fleet, that supplied him with provisions,
obliged that warlike prince to retire ; who wasted the country through which
he retreated, by Gala and Teviotdale (x). In the subsequent year, David IT.
was restored to his people under a treaty, dated the 3rd of October 1357 {y).
The tenth parliament of this wretched reign was convened at Edinburgh on

(n) He was at Edinburgh on the 16th and 21st of September 1335. Eym., iv., 667-8. He was at
Cockburnspath on the 23rd of September. lb., 669. He was at Edinburgh on the 24th and 28th. Id ;
and he was at Berwick on the 26th of October 1335. Id.

(o) Lord Hailes' An., ii., 191 ; and the English king's warrant for that effect is in Ayloffe's Cal.,
166.

{p) lb., 169. {q) Lord Hjiiles' An., ii., 195. (r) Fordun, 1. xiiL, c. 41-2.

(s) Lord Hailes' An., ii., 207. (t) lb., 216. ('/) Fordun, 1. xiv., c. 6.

\x) Fordun, 1. xiv., c. 13. (y) Eym., vi., 46-52.

Sect. Yl.—Tts Civil History. \ OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 591

the 26th of September 1357, in order to carry into effect the late treaty which
was soon after ratified by the Estates, and by each of the orders separately (z).
The nineteenth parliament of David II. was assembled in the abbey of Holy-
rood on the 8th of May 1366 {a). Herein were discussed several points of
a recent treaty which seemed intolerable to the Estates of a harassed people.
On the 22nd of Febi'uary 1370-1, a day happy for Scotland, died David II. in
Edinburgh, after a very disastrous reign, and he was buried before the great
altar in the abbey church of Holyrood, where a monument was erected to his
memory (6). During the reign of David II., Edinburgh was a frequent place
of mintage (c). In the frequent parliaments of David II.'s reign, Edinburgh
appeared as the chief burgh at the head of all the national burgesses (d).
David II. granted various pensions from the customs of Edinburgh (e), and he
gave to the burgesses and community of Edinburgh, a piece of land on the way
leading to the castle whereon the weigh-house was built (/'), which has always
obstructed and greatly disfigured the principal street of this metropolis.

This town had not the honour of witnessing the coronation of Robert Stewart
under the parliamentary entail of Bruce's crown. On the 3rd of May, 1371,
however, he held a privy council at Edinburgh (g). In 1381 the Duke of
Lancaster found a welcome reception with the monks of Holyrood, till England

(s) Eym., vi., 41. The clergy, tlie barons, and the burgesses gave separate commissions to certain
members of its own body. lb., 44. Those several commissioners ratified, by a separate deed of their
own at Berwick, the agreement of each Estate. lb., 59. To the resolution of a general council at
Perth, on the 13th of January 1364-5, the seals of Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Perth, and Dundee, were
appended in the name of all the burghs. Pari. Eec, 102. Of the seventeen burghs which were
represented in Parliament, Edinburgh then ranked as the first.

(a) Eoberts. Index, 110.

(b) On the 24th of May, 1372, Edward III. granted a safe conduct to certain j arsons who went from
Scotland to Flanders, to provide a stone for the tomb of David II. Rym., vi., 721. On the 28th of
May 1373, he granted another safe conduct to certain persons on their way to Flanders, "pro diversis
lapidibus nigris." lb., vii., 10. This tomb has not, however, preserved the vivid memory of a king
who entailed on his people so many miseries.

(d) Pari. Eec, 108-17.

(e) Eoberts. Index, 49-50. During this reign Edinburgh continued to be one of the four burghs
that formed a chamberlain's court for commercial affairs.

(/) Eoberts. Index, 78. This grant was on the 3d of December 1365.

((/) Pari. Eec, 119. In November 1384, there was a general council held at Edinburgh. lb., 133 :
and Lord Berner's Froissart, fo. 317. There was another general council at Edinburgh, in April
1385, with various continuations. Pari. Eec, 133.

592 An a C C OU N T [Cb. Y. —Edinburghshire.

became so free from insurrection as to admit of his safe return (h). Yet in
1384 the same duke led an army to the gates of Edinburgh, which he is said
to have spared on account of his hospitable i-eception there during some yeai's
before {i). The Scottish king summoned an army to the burgh moor for
the purpose of retaliation or revenge (k). Meantime, Robert II. learned from
some French envoys that a truce was made between England and France,
and a small French reinforcement also arrived. Some embarrassment imme-
diately ensued. The king wished for peace, the barons panted for war, and
they met within Saint Giles's church at Edinburgh, where they i-esolved on
hostilities, and told the French knights that they should be immediately called
into action. The summer of 1384 saw, in the result, the counterminous borders
on either side wasted by alternate inroads (Z). In May 1384, the admiral of
France, John de Vienne, arrived at Leith, with a thousand men at arms and
much money. The wages of corruption were divided among the Scottish barons
in the proportions of their influence (m). Thirty thousand men who were
mounted on small horses, assembled on the moor of Edinburgh, whence they
marched to the borders under the Earls of Fife and Douglas ; yet besides
an inroad they effected nothing worthy of such a force, being checked by an
English army (n). Robert II. then resided at Edinburgh, which scarcely
contained 4000 houses, which accommodated 20,000 people. Froissart called
Edinburgh the Paris of Scotland ; yet, could it not comfortably lodge the French
knights, who did not conceal their disappointment and disgust. The whole
country, indeed, remained as Froissart pretty plainly intimates, in the wretched-
ness, and penury, and nastiness in which the warfare and waste of a century
had left a harassed country (o). During August 1385, Richard II. retaliated
by leading an irresistible army through Lothian. On his route he burnt the
monastery of Newbotle ; and arriving at Edinburgh he gave the town, with
St. Giles's Church, and the Abbey of Holyrood, to his vengeful torch. After
remaining at Edinburgh during five days of malignant triumph, he marched

(/i) Ford., 1. xiv., c. 46.

(t) lb., c. 47. Walsingham blames the duke for his forbearance, 398 ; and he adds that the
inhabitants removed their effects, and even unroofed their houses, which were covered with straw^
Wyntoun and Fordun concur in saying that the town was ransomed by the people.

Qc) From that epoch the array of Scotland was generally mado on the burgh moor of
Edinburgh.

{I) Lord Berner's Froissart, fc. .SI 7. His lordship says those inroads were undertaken without the
knowledge of the Scottish king, who was disinclined to war.

(m) Rym., vii., 484. (jt) Walsingham, 316. (") Lord Berners, ii. 3.

Sect.Yl.—rts Civil History.] Of N 0 R T 11 - B E I T A I N. 593

to Stirling, leaving the whole metropolis in flames except the castle, which
was naturally strong, and was now well defended (q). The English king,
though he was attended by a great deal of victuallers, was at length obliged by
want to retire from a country which he had ruined, by every mode of hostile
devastation. Meantime, in July 1385, John the Stewart, who now acted as
the king's lieutenant, granted permission to the citizens of Edinburgh to build
houses within its castle, in order to enable them to sustain the storm, which,
from the south, lowered upon their destiny (?■). Pv,obert II. convened the Three
Estates at Edinburgh, in April 1389, wherein his second son E-obert, the
Earl of Fife, was constituted governor of the kingdom, owing to the age and
infirmities of his father (s) ; and he demised, in the seventy-fifth year of his
age, on the 19th of April 1390. Izi the meantime, Robert II. made various
grants out of his revenues of Edinburgh, which equally evince his own liberality
and the ability of the town (t).

His eldest son, John, immediately succeeded him, by the name of Robert III.,
who had now passed his fiftieth year. He held a council within the castle of
Edinburgh, on the 1st of December 1390, when he renewed the league of
his fathers with France (»). Almost a dozen years elapsed without any hosti-
lities from aljroad, or any disturbance within the limits of Lothian, while the
king's brothers domineered within his kingdom. Incited by antiquated
claims, and irritated by new j^rovocations, Henry IV. marched through the
Merse and Lothian to Leith, in August 1400. He repeatedly assaulted
Edinburgh castle, which was successfully defended by the Duke of Rothesay,
the apparent heir of Robert III. ; but the English monarch is said to have

(q) Bower, 1. siv., c. 50 ; Walsingbam, 317 ; Lord Berners, ii., fo. 11.

(r) Mait. Hist. Edin., 7. There are various documents in Eym., vii., wLich exhibit Johu the
prince and steward acting then as the king's lieutenant ; and in June 1385, as the king's lieutenant he
presided in a general council, which was then held at Edinburgh. Pari. Rec, 104. In July 1388,
Robert II. granted to the same citizens a piece of ground on the north side of the market street, for
beautifying the town. Maitland, 7.

(«) Bower, 1. xiv., c. 55.

(t) On the 26th of December 1385, he granted to Sir William Douglas, the son of Archibald,
the Lord of Galloway, and to his spouse Egidia, the king's daughter, a yearly pension of £300
sterling, out of the great customs of Edinburgh, Linlithgow, Dundee and Aberdeen. Hay's Vindica-
tion,- 55. He granted to Adam Forster, burgess of Edinburgh, a pension of 20 marks sterling, from
the great customs of the metropolis. Roberts. Index, 123. He granted on the 14th of February
1389-90, from the same fund, £8 sterling to St. Margaret's Chapel within Edinburgh Castle. lb.,
151.

(m) Pari. Rec, 136.

594 AnACCOUNT [Oh. y.—EdinhurghsMre.

spared Edinburgh from a recollection of the favourable reception which his
father had received within this hospitable town (x). When he saw no advan-
tage, and heard of disturbances at home, he retired upon his steps, without
doing much other mischief than assaulting Dalhousie castle.

The prince of Scotland, who thus defended Edinburgh castle, was soon after
brought to his premature end. Rothesay was young and profligate. He had
already spoused the daughter of George Earl of March ; an imprudence, which
as we have seen, brought innumerable mischiefs on his country. He was after-
ward induced to marry Mary, the daughter of Archibald Earl of Douglas (y) ;
but, neglecting his wife and his other duties^ Rothesay was assassinated by
duress, in the dungeon of Falkland castle, by Albany, the king's brother,
and Earl Douglas, the king's son-in-law. The parliament which assembled
at Edinburgh, in May 1402, in trying to exculpate those two overbearing
nobles, who avowed the prince's imprisonment for the public good, only
recorded their terrible guilt (2). The aged king, feeling his inability to protect
his subjects or his family, resolved, in 1404, to send his only son, James,
who was now eleven years old, to France, for his education and safety. The
prince was, by the king's order, secretly removed fi'om the bishop's palace at
St. Andrews ; he was safely carried through the Lothians, under the faithful
charge of Sir David Fleming, to North-Berwick ; and he was thence conveyed
to the impregnable castle of the Bass, with the salutary purpose of waiting the
arrival of the vessel which was to transport him to his foreign destination.
After remaining here almost a month, he raised his dubious sail, under the
guidance of Henry Sinclair, the second Earl of Orkney ; but the prince Avas
carried into England during a truce, and detained unjustly, through many
a dreary year of peace and war. The fate of the worthy Sir David Fleming was
still more deplorable. Returning home from the performance of the important
trust which was placed in him by the unhappy king, he was slain, on the 14th
February 1405, by James Douglas of Balveney, who sallied out of Edinburgh with
his followers, and assassinated him on Longherdmanston-moor, after a bloody con-
flict. The guilty Douglas took prisoners several nobles and knights, who were
soon enlarged. This odious event, which stained Currie parish with so foul a

(.r) Bower, 1. xv., c. 2. He spared the abbey of Ilolyrood owing to the same cause, saying, far
from his policy be the practice of molesting any church, much less that wherein his father had found
refnge.

(ij) There was a pension granted by Eobert III. to David, Duke of Rothesay, and Mary Douglas,
from the customs of the burghs lying besouth the Forth. Eoberts. Index, 146.

(z) Pari. Eec, 136 ; Eoberts. Index, 104 ; Lord Hailes' Eem. Hist. Scot., 278.

Sect. Yl.—Jis Civil Historij.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 595

dye, was passed over by the corrupt government of Albany as a common occur-
rence of wretched times (a). The venerable and worthy king did not long
survive those "sour adversities," dying on the 4th of April 1406, after an un-
fortunate reign of almost seventeen years (h). Meantime, Edinburgh, during
the reigns of Robert II. and Robert III., was a place of coinage, as it had equally
been under David II. and Robert I. (c).

At that epoch James I. was a prisoner in England ; and Edinburgh and
Lothian j^artook of the waste and woe of the two regencies of Albany, and
his son, Murdoch. In 1416, Archibald, the fourth Earl of Douglas, took the
castle of Edinburgh, which he delivered to the charge of William Crawford,
who restored it in 1418 {d). The motives of such men, during such times,
it is not easy to ascertain. In 1419, died the aged Albany, the domineering
regent. In December 1423, a treaty was made for the freedom and restora-
tion to his people of James I. (e). The town of Edinburgh, as we have just
seen, had the honour to contribute greatly to the king's return. James I. passed
the Tweed to Melrose abbey on the 5th of April 1424 (/). The king, in his
turn, often honoured Edinburgh with his residence. In August 1429, James I.,
his queen and court, then residing here, Alexander, the Lord of the Isles,
submitted himself to the king's mercy before the high altar of the church of
Holyrood, in the presence of the queen and nobles ((/). On the 16th of

(a) Wyntoun's Ohron., ii., 412-13 ; Bower, 1. xv., c. 18. The blood-stained Douglas succeeded to
the earldom, upon the death of Earl William, in 1440, and died on the 24th of March 1443-4.
Godscroft's Hist, of the Douglases, 148-57-60, who covers the detestable murder of Sir David Fleming
" with some sweet oblivious antidote."

(b) Robert III. granted to his brother Walter, the Lord of Brechin, a pension, from the customs of
Edinburgh. Roberts. Index, 138. He conferred on James Douglas, of Dalkeith, a pension from the
same revenue. lb., 150. He gave a pension from the customs of Edinburgh to James Stewart of
Kilbride ; and failing his heirs-male, to John Stewart of Ardgowan. lb., 145. These were the king's
two natural sons. Crawford, 21 ; Stewart's Hist, of the Stewarts, 62. Robert III. also granted to
William Stewart of Jedworth a pension of 40 marks from the customs of Edinburgh and Linlithgow.
Roberts. Index, 154. He gave to William de Lindsay 40 marks sterling from the customs of Edin-
burgh and Haddington. lb., 157 ; and he conferred on Thomas Moffat a pension of £10 from the
great customs of Edinburgh. lb., 127.

(e) Rym., x., 303. That treaty required that obligations, securing the payment of the ransom,
should he granted by the burghs of Edinburgh, Perth, Dundee, and Aberdeen. Id. The town of
Edinburgh, on the 16th of February 1423-4, gave its bond for the payment of 50,000 marks English
money. lb., 325.

(/) Rym., X., 343. (rj) Bower, I. xvi., c. 16.

596 An A C C 0 U N T [Cli. N.—EdinburghsMre.

October 1430, the queen was delivered of twins in the abbey of Holyrood (/;).
In the subsequent year the festivities of Edinburgh were saddened by a pesti-
lence {i). The last parliament of James I. was held at Edinburgh on the 22nd
of October 1436 (A). James I. coined much of his money at this metropolis of
his I'uined kingdom (/).

The sad catastrophe of James I., which happened at Perth, produced bene-
ficial effects to Edinburgh. Perth, as it had no castle which could shelter tlie
royal family from the most murderous attacks of ferocious nobles, ceased to be
the seat of government. Though parliaments had frequently assembled at Edin-
burgh, yet at that epoch it became the king's residence, and the ^parliament's
place of meeting. From the reign of David II., Edinburgh appears the primary
burgh \\\ all public transactions ; and the parliamentary commissioners, who
were sent from Edinburgh, were treated with great distinction. They were
generally chosen on the committees of articles for the making of laws, and on
the committees of causes for the administration of justice (m).

James II., who was an infant of scarcely seven years of age when his father
was murdered, fled from Perth, the guilty scene, to the safer residence of
Edinburgh castle; and on the 20th of March 1436-7, a parliament was held
in the church of Holyrood, where the youthful king was crowned (n) ; neither
Scone nor Stirling being deemed places of sufficient security for such a
ceremony ; and here was the government settled, Crichton being confirmed
as chancellor, with the charge of Edinburgh castle ; and Livingston being
appointed the king's governor, with the keeping of Stirling castle. Some of
the assassins of James I. were brought to Edinburgh, where they were legally
tried, and exemplarily punished. The years 1438, 1439. and 1440, were

(h) Id. The eldest twin was named Alexander, who died an infant ; the youngest twin was bap-
tized James, and succeeded his muidered father in 1437.

({) Id. {k) Pari. Eec, 72.

(/) Cardonnel's Numis., GO. On the obverse of his coins the place of mintage is inscribed, " ViUa
Edinburgh." lb., pi. iv.

(m) The number of representatives from Edinburgh seems not to have been specified, but it appeal's
to have been generally two. In the Parliament of Stirling, on the 4th of September 1439, William of
Cranston, a burgess of Edinburgh, was present, as the commissioner of that town ; and affixed his seal,
with two others, on the part of the burghs, to the agreement between the queen and the governor
Livingston. Crawfurd's Poor., 276, wherein this curious fact is transcribed. The commissaries of
Edinburgh, Aberdeen, and Linlithgow, witnessed, in a similar manner, a charter of James II., granted,
in tlie parliament at Edinburgh, on the 28th of June 1445, to James Lord Hamilton. Davidson's
Chamberlain's Accounts, 27.

(n) Pari. Eec, 29-73.

Sect. YL—lts Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 597

idly wasted in disputes among the rulers about the keeping of the king's
person ; and Edinburgh castle was made the frequent scene of contest and
circumvention, which were not settled even by the parliamentary agreement of
September 1439. On the 24th of November 1440, William, the sixth Earl
Douglas, David Douglas, his brother, and Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld,
their special counsellor, were adjudged in Edinburgh castle, the youthful king
sitting as justiciary (o).

William, Earl Douglas, who thus died on "treason's true bed," was suc-
ceeded by James Douglas of Balveny, who had assassinated Sir David Fleming,
without challenge, on Longherdmanston moor, as we have seen ; and, dying
on the 24th of March 1443-4, left a son, William, who, arrogating the prac-
tices of his fathers, met a similar fate (p). This personage, when he entered
on the earldom, saith Godscroft, the appi'opriate historian of his family, entered
also hereditarily to their enmity against the two grand guides of the time, Crich-
ton the chancellor, and Livingston the governor (q). This noble, with all his
enmities and his arrogance, James II., in an evil hour for his people and
himself, assumed as his favourite in 1444. Crichton, the ablest man in
Scotland, was now dismissed from his high office of chancellor. Feeling this
event as an avowal of hostility, he provisioned Edinburgh castle ; and prepared,
with his usual vigour, to defend himself from the threatened violence (r).
A parliament was called at Edinburgh, in June 1445, for executing the
vengeance of the ruling favourite. Crichton and Livingston were now
forfeited without a hearing (s). Douglas directed their estates to be seized ;

(o) Cliron. at the end of Wyntoun ; Lesly, 28-1 ; Godscroft, 155, who says, " they were all
three beheaded in the back court of the castle that lieth to the west.'' The historian of the
Douglases declares them all to be innocent of any crime ; yet he states explicitly that Earl
Douglas would not acknowledge the authority of government, and set up a government within a
government, and acted with kingly, and more than kingly power. lb., 148-9. It were to be
wished, however, that we had the charge and the proofs which were exhibited against them, Young
Douglas was allowed to sit in parliament when he was scarcely sixteen ; and is it strange that such a
youth should arrogate royal power and regal state! Godscroft, 155, has transmitted a traditionary
malediction, which was long the popular exclamation on the remembrance of those terrible
scenes : —

" Edinburgh castle, town, and tower,

God grant ye sinke for sinne ;

And that even for the black dinner

Earl Douglas got therein.

(p) Godscroft, 157-61. (q) Hist. Douglases, 162. (r) Pitscottie, 36.

(«) Pitscottie, 37-8.
4 40

598 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

and Sir John Forrester of Corstorphine, his instrument, was detached by
him to besiege the castle of Crichton in Edinburghshire, whicli was easily
won, and soon demolished. But Crichton was not a man to be dismayed by
adversity. He sallied from Edinburgh castle and laid waste the lands of
Corstorphine ; and thence carried fire and sword into the territories depending
on Douglas in Lothian (i). The king and Douglas now laid siege to Edin-
burgh castle ; but it was defended with so much skill and resolution by
Crichton, that they were glad to give him his own terms of capitulation, after
a long blockade, which ended in February 1445-G {u). So much were the
resources and fortitude of Crichton respected by the king and liis favourite,
that he was even taken into the king's favour, and was actually restored to his
old oflSce of chancellor (x).

In the midst of those guilty scenes, during terrible times, arising from coiTupt
manners, James II. showed his attachment to Edinburgh by the variety and
extent of his liberalities. There seems to be no end to his grants, with what-
ever policy they may have been conceived and conceded (y) ; and we now

{f) Pitscottie, 38-9. (n) lb., 42 ; Major, 322.

(x) He was besieged in 1446, and was chancellor in 1448. Chron. at the end of Fordun ; Pit-
scottie, 42 ; Major, 322. " Upon the surrender of the castle," saith Pitscottie, " it was reformed again
of new, better than it was before.'' On the 12th of June 1450, the king granted to William, Lord
Crichton, the chancellor, the lands of Castlelaw iu Lothian, to recompense the sum of £1800 expended
on the kinfj's house, and £400 lent to the kimj. Scotstarvit's Calendar. This grant may allude to the
reparation of Edinburgh castle.

{y) On the 24th of November 1447, James IL granted to the community of Edinburgh a right of
holding tlie Trinity fair, with the privileges to the same pertaining, as freely as they held All halloios
fair. This grant was confirmed by James VI. On the 30th of April 1449, James IL granted
permission to the magistrates to fortify the town of Edinbui'gh, with power to impose a tax on the
inhabitants for defraying the expense. Maitland, 137-8 . Arnot, 234-5. They describe the course
and distance of the wall which shows the limits of the city, that was now fortified for the first time.
On the 16th of April 1451, James II. granted to the burgesses an exemption from all duties, except
the petty custom payable by unfreemen and strangers. The charter is transcribed into Maitland,
241. On the 4th of November 1454, he granted to the magistrates a right to hold, yearly, within
their jurisdiction, a court of parliament of the four principal burghs of the kingdom, Edinburgh,
Stirling, Linlithgow, and Lanark. This grant was confirmed by James VI. Maitland, 241 ; Wight
on Pari., 332. Haddington, we may recollect, was anciently one of the quatuor buryorum, and also
the place of their conventions, so that Haddington was now deprived of both those privileges which
seems to mark its decay. On the same day, he gave the magistrates of Edinburgh the liaven silver
and customs on ships entering the roadstead and harbour of Leith. Maitland, 242. On the 13th of
August 1456, he granted to the magistrates of Edinburgh all that vale or low ground lying between
the rocks called the Craigend gate on the east, to the king's highway leading to Leith on the west.
Id.

Sect. Yl.—Tts Civil History.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 599

see that Edinburgh owes more to James II. than to any other of the Scottish
kings.

At the early age of eighteen, James II. sent his chancellor, Crichton, with
other envoys, to find him a proper wife on the neighbouring continent. They
found a suitable spouse for him in Mary of Guelder. Her they spoused at
Brussels for their sovereign, on the 1st of April 1449 ; and in the subse-
quent June she arrived at Leith, and proceeded on horseback, behind the
Count of Vere, to her lodging in the convent of the Grey Friars, in Edin-
burgh. The king visited the princess of Guelderland at twelve o'clock at
night of the following day ; and in the course of the following week the
queen's nuptials and coronation were celebrated, in the abbey of Holyrood,
with all the pomp of a sterile land during a calamitous age. Yet, were the
people of Edinburgh and of other towns, even at that epoch, in such a progress
of improvement as to require the decisive obstruction of sumptuary laws {y).
From this period, Edinburgh became the frequent place of parliamentary meet-
ings, in prefei-ence to every other town (z). In the meantime, William, the
Earl of Douglas, entering into the most treasonous practices, attempted to seize
Crichton, the chancellor ; who, in his turn, endeavoured to arrest Douglas,
who was then at Edinburgh with a slender train (a). The insolence of
William, the eighth Earl of Douglas, brought him to an unhappy catastrophe,
on the 13th of February 1452, by a stroke of the king's indignation (6).
James II. lost his own life, which was of so much importance to his people, by
the bursting of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh castle, on the 3rd of August
1460, leaving his heroic widow, Mary of Guelder, to protect his children and
support his crown (c).

(»/) See the Stat, of James III.; Pari. Eec, 37 ; and the Act which was made at Edinburgh on the
6th of March 1457-8 ; restraining the sumptuous clothing of men and women, both of the town and
country. lb., 42.

{£) lb., 30-74-77 : On the 19th of October 1456, and on the 6th of March 1457-8, the Estates again
assembled at Edinburgh, when William Cranston, the commissioner from this town, was appointed one
of the committee for the administration of justice. lb., 39-40.

(a) Pitscottie, 67-8 : Crichton, the Chancellor, died in 1454. without leaving in Scotland so able a
minister.

(J) Godscroft, 194. The parliament which met at Edinburgh on the 26th of August 1452
considered the earl as a rebel, and adroitly justified the king's Act.

(c) James II. was buried in the monastery of Holyrood. His widow, who has not escaped the
accustomed calumny of Scottish history, died on the 16th of November 1463 ; and was buried in the
Trinity College, which she had founded. Maitland's Edin., 212,

600 A N A C C 0 U X T [Ch. \ .— Edinburghshire.

By the sad demise of the Scottish king, James III. immediately succeeded to
his gory sceptre. During his turbulent reign, Edinburgh became the usual seat
of his ineflScient government, and his parliaments generally assembled at Edin-
burgh, and often sat " in pretorio burgi " {d).

After the battle of Towton, Henry VI. crossed the Solway, and with his
queen, his son, and nobles, sought refuge at Kirkcudbright, whence they
came to Edinburgh, where they met the kindest reception from the widowed
queen. A treaty was here made for marrying Edward, the prince of England,
to Mary, the princess of Scotland ; and Henry, from a sense of the attention
of the magistrates of Edinburgh, granted the citizens liberty to trade in every
port of his kingdom, on paying the same duties as the people of London (e).

James III. chose the princess Margaret of Denmark for his queen ; and
this princess, who had the fortune to please the historians of Scotland, ai-rived
at Leith in July 1469 ; and she was soon after married, and crowned in the
church of Holyrood, with unusual splendour (/). The pestilence which pre-
vailed at Edinburgh, in September 1475, prevented the meeting of parliament
in its town-house, according to the summons (</). James III., who made Edin-
burgh the seat of his I'esidence, in October 1477, granted a charter to the
corporation, establishing the site of its various markets, which had been hitherto
unsettled in their proper places (h).

In 1478, began those intrigues at Edinburgh, which ended at length in
the king's death. His two brothers, Albany and Mar, who were the chiefs of
the conspirators, were arrested. Albany was imprisoned in Edinburgh castle,
whence he made his escape to France ; Mar was sent to Craigmillar castle, and
soon after died. The same intrigues produced a war with England (i). Albany
passed in 1842 from Paris to London, whei'e he entered into treaties with
Edward IV. for dethroning his brother, and surrendering to Edward the

(d) Pari. Eec, 141 : and throughout this reign of James III.

(e) Mai tl and, 8 ; Arnot, 11.

(/) "On the 13th of July 1469, James III. of Scotland was marjdt in Holi/roodhouse, in gret
dignitie with Margaret, the king's douchter of Norway, Dasie, Swasie, and Denmark." The old
Chron. at the end of Wyntoun.

(y) Black Acts, fo. Ixi.

(J) Maitland, 8-9. A suit was moved in parUament, on the 11th of June 1478, with respect to the
retouv of an inquest of " tua Buthis," lying in the " Buth Eawis,'' within the burgh of Edinburgh.
Pari. Eec, 223.

(t) Pari. Eec, 252-3.

Sect. YL— Its Civil History.} OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 601

sovereignity of Scotland (Jc) ; and in pursuance of those stipulations, an
English army, commanded by the well-known Duke of Gloucester, and accom-
panied by the Duke of Albany, marched into Northumberland. Meantime,
James III. assembled in July 1482, a great army on the burgh-moor, for
resisting those insidious invaders of his injured kingdom (1). While he marched
from Edinburgh to Soutra, and thence to Lauder, Gloucester and Albany
pi'oceeded forward from Alnwick to Berwick. The Scottish nobles who were
acting in concert with Albany and Gloucester, and who had the Earl of Angus
at their head, on the same night that the king arrived at Lauder, hanged
several of his menials over Lauder bridge. The Scottish army thereupon dis-
persed, and the king himself was carried to Edinburgh castle (»i). Gloucester
took Berwick town, wasted the Merse, and marched forward with Albany
through Lothian to Edinburgh. Being unable to resist, it readily opened its
gate. At the request of Albany, Gloucester saved the town and people from
fire and pillage, " only taking such presents, saith Hall, as the merchants
gentelly offered him (n)." The garter king now went " to the high cross,
in the market jolace," to summon the king to perform all that he had engaged
to Edward IV., and to pardon Albany (o). These events occurred on the Isfc
of August 1482. But Gloucester did not remain long at Edinburgh while the
Scottish people were collecting ai'ouud him. He marched back his army
through Mid-Lothian, to Lethington, beyond the Tyne. On the 2nd of August
1482, Albany was pardoned by a formal act which was executed at Edin-
burgh {ij). But a peace with Gloucester was still to be made, and the price
which he put upon so great a good, at that j)erilous moment, was the cession of
Berwick for ever. The conduct of Edinburgh, on that occasion, does great
honour to the real patriotism of her citizens. They agreed to repay to
Edward IV. whatever money he had advanced to James III., in pursuance of
their contract for the marriage of the Lady Cicilie, Edward's daughter, to James's

(Jc) Eymer, xii. 154, has recorded the treachery of Albany and the baseness of Edward ; Habing-
ton's Hist, of Ed. IV., 201, recites some additional details.

(/) Pitscottie, 141, says the king took with him certain artillery out of the castle of Edinburgh, and
made Cochran conveyer of them.

[in) The king remained in Edinburgh castle from the 22d of July to the 29th of September 1482,
as we have seen. Hall says, indeed, that James, while Glocester and Albany marched to Berwick,
" did voluntarily incarcerate himself in the strong castle of Mwjdens in Edinburgh." Chron.
vol. Iv.

(7t) Id. (o) Id. (;>) Eym. xii. 160.

^02 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Edinburghshire.

son (;•). After all those actions, which does Edinburgh such great credit, the
provost and citizens assisted Albany in releasing the king from his confine-
ment, whether real or aftected, in the castle of the Maydens. The gates flew
open, as if by enchantment, at their approach. The king embraced his brother
as a mark of his thankful reconcilement ; and they rode together from the
castle to Holyi'oodhouse, amidst the tumultuous joy of a deluded people ; and
the king was studious to bestow on the inhabitants of Edinburgh, munificent
tokens of his grateful recollection of their useful attachment to him during his
utmost need (s).

The parliament which assembled at Edinburgh on the 2nd of December
1482, by making Albany Lieutenant General of the realm, virtually delivered
the king and the nation into his insidious hands. During Christmas holidays
1482, that ambitious prince attempted to seize the king's person ; but James,
who resided at Edinburgh as his safest shield, by rousing the citizens and
retiring into the castle, disappointed his brother's treasonous purpose. By the
prompt performance of all its stipulations with England, during those terrible
times, Edinburgh seems to have obtained great praise. It was called ditissimum
oppidum, by the continuator of the Annals of Croyland, who censured Gloucester
for not sacking this opulent town (<).

(s) On tlie 4tli of August 1482, tbe provost, the merchants, and the citizens, entered into a
bond to repay to Edward what he had advanced, provided he signified by the 10th of October
then next, that he would rather have payment than the marriage of his daughter. He accord-
ingly made such a signification, and the money was honestly paid by Edinburgh. Eym. xii.
162-5-7, and see before p. 274. Walter Bartrahame was then provost of the tons of Edinburgh. We
may remark that the provost does not call Edinburgh a city, nor himself lord provost.

(s) On the 16th of November 1482, by a special charter, he constituted their provost hereditary
sheriff within the town, and gave the corporation the fines and escheats arising from the office.
He empowered the magistrates to make laws, for the better government of the people, within their
jurisdiction. He exempted them from the payment of certain duties, and he empowered them
to exact customs on some merchandizes which might be imported at Leith. Arnot, 13 ; Mait-
land, 9. And as a perpetual remembrancer, saith Maitland, of the loyalty and bravery of the
Edinburghers on the aforesaid occasion, the king granted them a banner, with power to display
the same in defence of their king, their country, and their own rights. The flag, which is at
present denominated the Blue Blanket, and which is kept by the convener of the trades ; at
whose appearance therewith, it is said, that not only the artificers of Edinburgh are obliged to
repair to it, but all the craftsmen within Scotland, and fight under the convener of Edinburgh.
Maitland, 10.

(t) For the revenue of the corporation at that epoch, see Maitland, 10. The people of this
wealthy town tried in 1488 to be wealthier by unworthy means. They supposed the ruin of Leith to
be the enrichment of Edinburgh. Id.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil Ilistorij.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 603

The death of Edward IV. and the disappointment of Albany did not prevent
the cabals of the nobles, nor suspend the final fate of James III. The king found
it necessary to retire from Edinburgh in March 1488, the insurgents hav-
ing possessed themselves of the southern shires. He passed the Forth, and
endeavoured, with some success, to raise troops in the northern districts, where
Angus and Gray had not shed their baneful influences. The rebels, after they
had taken the castle of Dunbar, marched through Lothian to Leith, where they
seized the king's property, which they applied to the uses of insurrection.
Returning from the north, the king made the convention of Blackness with the
insurgent nobles, disarming himself, and thereby leaving his opponents in
power. James had no sooner disbanded his army, than the rebellious nobles came
out with augmented numbers, avowing their design of dethroning the king.
The unhappy monarch now supplied the castle of Edinburgh, where his treasures
and valuables were deposited ; and he again collected his northern forces,
which he marched to Stirling-field, where he lost his crown and life on the
11th of June 1488. The castle of Edinburgh soon surrendered to the rebellious
force that had conquered the king ; and with it the leaders obtained the king's
treasure and jewels ; as in this stronghold his valuables had been deposited as
a place of safety (i). Edinburgh town was meantime the principal place of
coinage of James III., as it had been of James II. («). The citizens of Edinburgh
had protected the late king ; and the beneficent king, in return, had granted to
the citizens many privileges.

The first parliament of James IV. assembled at Edinburgh on the 9th of
October 1488, amid the guilty triumphs of rebellious faction (x). Two of the
leaders, Patrick Lord Hailes, the Earl of Bothwell, and Alexander Home,
were empowered to rule tJte Lothians and Merse. Lord Hailes, who was the
master of the household and the constable of Edinburgh castle, was authorized
to take charge of the artillery and stiiff" in the castle, with the king's brother,
the Duke of Eoss (y) In February 1488-9, that successful leader was em-
powered " to bring in the king's property, casualties, and revenues, in the
shires of Edinburgh, Haddington, Kirkcudbright and Wigton (z)." In this
manner, then, were the castle, the city, and the shire of Edinburgh, delivered
to the domination of Patrick, Earl of Bothwell (a).

(t) Pitscottie, 172 ; Pari. Eec. 373. Edinburgh castle was also the ordnance depository of the same
king ; and his ordnance stores consisted of two great curtaldis, which had been sent from France, ten
falcons, thirty iron cart guns, sixteen carts for powder and stone bullets.

(?() Cardonnel, pi. v., p. 79-81. {x) Pari. Eec. 331. (y) lb. 339. (x) lb. 364.

(a) At that epoch Edinburgh enjoyed the peculiar privilege of recovering rents by a summary

604 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Edinburghshire.

As James IV. grew up in years and in stature, Edinburgh became a busy
scene of magnificent entertainments. In which he greatly dehghted. He
frequently proclaimed tournaments to be held at Edinburgh, to which were
invited the knights of every country. The fame whereof, saith Pitscottie, caused
many errant knights to come out of strange countries to Scotland; because they
heard of the knightly games of the king, his nobles, and gentlemen {b). Mean-
time, the king, at the age of thirty, entered into spousals with the Lady Margaret,
who was scai'cely fourteen, the eldest daughter of Henry VII. ; and their
marriage was celebrated at Edinburgh, within the abbey and palace of Holy-
rood, with uncommon splendour, in August 1503 (c). This abbey, the scene

process ; and the Parliament of February 1468-9, by a special act, extended the same privilege to
Perth, and to the other burghs. Tb. 366. September 1497 is the epoch of the appeai'ance at
Edinburgh of a contagious jjlague which was yclept the grandgore. The infected were ordered, by
proclamation, to retire to the inch, an island in the Forth. Maitland, 10. If this plague were the
same veneral disease which appeared at the siege of Naples in 1495, it must have made a rapid pro-
gress to Edinburgh.

(J) Pits. 186-7.

(c) The Lady Margaret, after spending some joyous days at Dalkeith castle, on the 7th of
August 1.503, departed for Edinburgh, "nobly accompanied, and in fayr array, in her litere,
very richly enorned.'' — A myle from Dalkeith, the kynge sent to the quene a grett tame hart
for to have a corse. The kynge caused the said hart to be losed and put a grayhond after hym,
that maid a fayr course, but the said hart wanne the town and went to his repayre. — Half of the
way the kyng came to mett her, monted apon a bay horse, renning as he wold renne after the
hayre, accompanyed of many gentylmen. — At the commying towardes the quene he made hyr very
humble obeyssaunce, in lepynge downe of hj-s horse and kyssed hyr in hyr litere. This doon,
he monted agejm, and ychon being put in ordre as before, a gentylman husscher bare the swerde
before hym. — The Erie of Bothwell bare the swerde at the entreng the towne of Edenbourgh,
and had on a long gowne of blak velvett fourred with marten. — The kyng monted upon a pallefroy,
withe the said quene behinde hym, and so rode thorow the said towne of Edenburgh. — Halfe a
mylle ny to that, within a medewe, was a pavillion, whereof cam owt a knyght on horsebak, armed at
all peces, having his lady paramour that baiTe his home ; and by a vantur there cam another also
armed, and robbed from hym his said lady, and blew the said home, whereby the said knycht
turned after hym ; and they did well torney tyl the kynge cam hymselfe, the quene behynde hjm,
crying Paix, and caused them for to be departed. — Ther war many honest people of the town
and of the countre aboute, honestlye arrayed all on horsbak, and so by ordre, the kyng and the
quene entred within the said town. At the entryng that same, cam in prooessyon the Grey
Freres, with the crosse and some relicks, the wich was presented by the warden to the kynge for
to kysse, bot he wolde not before the quene, and he had hys hed bare during the ceremonies. —
At the entryng of the said towne was maid a yatt of wood painted, with two towrells and a windows
in the midds. In the wich towrells was at the windowes revested angells syngyng joyously for the
coming of so noble a lady, and at the said middyl wyndowe was in lyk wys an angell presenting
the kees to the said quene.— In the mydds of the towne was a crosse new paynted, and ny to that

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. fi05

of SO many events, were founded, as we have seen, vmder David I., the father
of so many monkish establishments. The abbeys, from their accommodation,
and their sanctity during rude ages, became the lodgings of kings and nobles.
James I. with his queen, resided in the abbey of Holyrood when they attended
public aftairs at Edinburgh. In the same commodious hostel James III. resided
till he was driven from it by treason. We may easily suppose that the fre-
quency of the royal residence gradually improved the abbey to a palace, in
which the royal nuptials were now celebrated on the interesting Union of the
Thistle and and Rose (d).

same a fontayne, castynge fortli of wyn and ychon drank that wold. — Ny to that crosse was a
scavfaust maid, wher was represented Paris and the three Deessys with Mercure, that gaflfe hym
the apyll of gold for to gyffe to the most fayre of the three, wiche he gave to Venus. More
fourther was of new maid one other yatt,. upon the wiche was in sieges the iiii vertus ; theiss is to
weytt, justice, force, temperance, and prudence. Under was a licorne and a greyhound, that
held a difference of one chardon florystred and a red rose entrecassed, with thos war tabrets that
played merrily whyll the noble company passed thorough. The towne of Edenbourgh was in
many places haunged with tapissery ; the howses and wyndowes war full of lordes, ladyes, gentyl-
■women and gentylmen, and in the streyts war soe grett multitude of people without nombre
that it was a fayre thynge to se. The wiche people war verey glad of the commyng of the said
queue ; and in the churches of the sayd towne bells rang for myrthe. — Then the noble company
passed out of the said towne to the churche of the Holycrosse, out of which cam the archbishop
of Saunt Andrew, brother to the said kynge, his crosse borne before hym, accompanyed with
many bishops and abbots in their pontificals, with the religious lichly revested. After this doon,
ychon lept off his horse, and in fayr ordre went after the processyon to the church, and in the entryng
of that sam, the kynge and the queue light downe, and after led her to the giett awter, wher was a
place ordonued for them to knele apon two cuschyons of cloth of gold. But the kynge wolde never
knell down first, bot both togeder.

(d) On the 7th of August 1503, saith the herald. Young, " after all reverences doon at the church,
in order as before, the king transported himself to the pallais thorough the clostre, holdynge allwayes
the queue by the body, and hys hed bare, tyll he had brought her within her chammer." Lei. Col.
iv. 290. At that period, the palace had a chapel within it, and the chaplain was the keeper of the
palace. Yet, the historians of Edinburgh suppose that James V. built the first part of the palace.
The same historians seem to have forgotten that such a marriage was celebrated splendidly at Edin-
burgh. The herald, Young, has given the whole in the most curious detail in Leland. But it was
reserved for Dunbar, the greatest of the Scottish poets, to celebrate the nuptials of James and Margaret
in a strain of versification, which emulates, if it do not surpass the amatory effusions of James I., as
well as the elegant tales of Chaucer :

'■ To see this court, bot all were went away ;
Then up I leitiyt, halflings in affrey,
Callt to my muse, and for my subject chois
To sing the ryel Thrissil and the Rose."
4 4H

606 An ACCOUNT [Gh.Y.— Edinburghshire.

Important as that Union was to the state, had prudence managed the sceptre,
it was not more consequential in policy than the introduction to Edinburgh
in 1508 of printing, by Chepman and Millar, under a charter of James IV.,
was to the literature of his rugged people (d). The king continued to reside at
Edinburgh. It was here that he entertained the French ambassador at great
expense, with coarse profusion (<?). Such entertainments were at length inter-
rupted by the plague, which harrassed Edinburgh, during the afflictive year
1513 (/"). Meantime, as the king was now preparing for unlucky warfare,
he went daily to inspect the progress of his artillery within Edinburgh castle,
and the outfit of his navy at Newhaven (g). He summoned the whole array of
his kingdom to assemble on the Burgh-moor of Edinburgh. The king was
not to be frightened from his absurd warfare either by the spectre at Linlithgow
or the demon at Edinburgh (h). Unawed by such spirits, the provost, the Earl
of Angus, and the magistrates of Edinburgh, with many burgesses, joined the
king's host. This great army marched from the burgh-moor in August
1513, to its destiny on Floddon field. It was there dissipated on the 9th of
September 1513, with mighty loss, when the king was slain. The fortitude
with which the citizens of Edinburgh received, on the morrow, the disastrous
news, will ever do them great honour {i). As the Earl of Surrey did not follow
up his decisive blow till he was urged by his unfeeling master, time was given
to a resolute people to make the most vigorous resistance, of which Edinburgh
had shown an encouraging example (k).

But, on that disastrous occasion, Edinburgh was deemed too unsafe for the
sitting of the Great Council, which adjourned to Stirling, where James V. was
crowned (?). As Surrey did not advance ; as the spirits of the people became
more settled ; the Great Council returned to Edinburgh, wherein it sat in

(rf) There are several very curious specimens of the earliest printing press of Scotland, by Chepman
and ^Millar, which are preserved in the Advocates' Library with curious care.

(e) See Avnot's Hist. Edin. 98 — 111.

(f) To stop its progress, the magistrates ordered the shops to be shut during 15 days, and nothing
to be sold but the necessaries of life. Maitland, 11.

' {g) Dacr.'s Letter to Henry VIIL, dat«d the 24th of February. Calig. B. iii. 23.

(h) Pitscottie, 203-4. {i) Mait. 11-12; Lord Hailess Remarks, 147.

(k) On that occasion, the town council of Edinburgh ordained tliat a guard of four-and-twenty men
should be raised for the defence of the city, and that 5001. Scots should be collected for the purpose
of fortifying the town and purchasing artillery ; and the council ordered an extension of the town wall,
so as to include the new buildings on the southward. Maitland, 12 — 139. The plague continued
meanwhile to rage in Edinburgh, and the town council adopted measures to check its ravages, lb.
12 ; Aniot, 11.

(l) Pari. Rec. 525.

Sect. yi.—Its Civil History.'] 0 f N 0 R T H - B R I T A I N . 607

September and October 1513 (m). Yet, as Henry VIII. reproached Surrey
for his lenity, as the unfeeling uncle of the Scottish king commanded the most
wasteful inroads to be made on his country, southern Scotland \\'as ravaged
with fire and sword during the autumn of 1513 {a). The Great Council
removed from Edinburgh to Perth, where it sat till the 5th of December in
more security (o).

All eyes were now fixed on the arrival of the 2iutative Duke of Albany, who
was to give stability to a disjointed government, and vigour to the Scottish arms.
He arrived at Edinburgh on the 26th of May 1515, when he was received
with unwonted magnificence. The barons went out to meet him {p), the
burgesses set forth splendid exhibitions {q), and the queen waited for him at
the gate of Holyrood palace (r). Albany soon after proclaimed at the cross of
Edinburgh, the peace with England which France had negotiated for Scotland.
At Edinburgh, on the 12th of July 1515, assembled the parliament which
directed the inauguration of Albany, with unusual pomp, who was proclaimed
protector and governor of Scotland till the infant king should arrive at the
eighteenth year of his age (s). Albany now resided in the palace of Holyrood,
and the queen found more safety for herself and her two sons in Edinburgh
castle. But Albany seems to have thought himself insec\u-e while the queen
retained her children and the castle. With the concurrence of parliament, he
pi-oceeded with four appointed peers to demand the royal children as belong-
ing to the nation rather than to her. She spoke to theni at the castle gate,
but she declined to admit them into the fortalice which her late husband had
delivered to her special charge (0. She thus, however, eluded their demands,
and sent her sons to Stirling castle, which Albany prepared to beseige. The
queen followed them thither, as she supposed she had at Stirling more
influence. Yet she soon surrendered Stirling castle and her children to

(in) Pail. Rec. 526-7-8.

(ft) Origiual Letter, Oalig. B. ; which evinces the erroneous representations of the Scottish his-
torians.

(o) Pari. Rec. 528-38. {j)) Lesley, 375-6

((jr) Holinshed, 303, says the burgesses represented sundry conceits, pageants and plays, to do him
honour.

(»•) Lesley, 376. (.<;) Dacre's Letter to the English Council, Cilig. B. ii. 2S1.

(i) Id. Dacre maljes the queen say to those lords : " This castle is part of nuj enj'i'iijj'ineut,
and of it, by my late husband, the king, was I made sole governess." Id. She may have been
made governess, but in Edinburgh castle she had no right of dower by her enfeoffment. Rym.
xiii. 6.3.

60S An ACCOUNT \Ch. Y .—Edinburffhshtre.

Albany ; and immediately returned to Edinburgh castle, where she remained a
while, distrusting and distrusted.

Edinburgh castle, from being a scene of intrigue, soon became a prison
of state (k). It was also chosen as a place of secure residence for the infant
king. In May 1517, when Albany meditated a visit to France, the king was
placed in Edinburgh castle, under the care of four nobles ; Marshal and
Erskine, Borthwick, and Ruthven. But, the plague again appearing in Edin-
burgh, the king was removed to Craigmillar castle, and sometimes to Dalkeith.
In the meantime, the town became a frequent theatre of tumult, from the com-
petition of the Hamiltons and Douglases, for superiority in the magistracy.
At the head of the Hamiltons was Arran ; in the front of the Douglases was
Angus ; each pretending to be provost. In December 1519, tumults ensued,
and lives were lost : Albany transmitted a prohibition from France in February
1519-20, against choosing for supreme magistrate either a Douglas or a Ham-
ilton (x). From this scene of tumult, Arran withdrew to Glasgow, to which he
was followed by the chancellor and other lords ; and the king's governors,
meanwhile, shut the gates of the castle against Angus (y). Such facts evince
with sufficient conviction, that neither law nor manners existed in Scotland
under the regency of Albany. The parliament was about to meet, at Edin-
burgh in April 1.520 ; and a more violent tumult between those irascible
parties took place, when many lives were lost (z). The borderers came to the
aid of Angus, and domineered a while with lawless violence ; atid the plague

(h) Iq October 1515, to Edinburgh castle, of wbich the Earl of Arran had then the charge, the
Lord Home was comraitted b)- the regent Albany. But the keeper and the prisoner emigrated
together to the borders ; so unprincipled were the nobles of that age. They were also so irascible
that they seldom met without an assault. The Earl of Murray having a quarrel with the Earl of
Huntly, and meeting him in the streets of Edinburgh in November 1515, a conflict ensued between
the nobles and their followers, which was not appeased till the regent pei-sonally interposed, and
committed them to the castle. Lesley, 379. The Lords Rothes and Lindsay, on the 17th of June
1518, also fought in the streets of Edinburgh till they were both sent to separate castles. Holinshed,
.306.

(x) Arnot, 14, who mistakes the date of that prohibitory interposition.

(y) Lesley, 392.

(z) hx popular history, this bloody conflict on the streets of Edinburgh was called cleanse the causeij.
The Hamiltons were expelled by the Douglases with great loss. AiTan, and his putative son, Sir
James Hamilton, escaped by a ford in the Nor-loch. Archbishop Beaton, the chancellor, took refuge
in the Dominican church, whence he was dragged from behind the high altar, and would have
been slain but for the interposition of Douglas, the well-known bishop of Dunkeld. Lesle}'. 394-5 ;
Pitscottie, 219-21 ; and the Pari. Eec. 555, which corrects the egregious mistakes of the Scottish
historians.

Sect. Vl.—ns Civil History.^ OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 609

continued by its ravages to add its horrors to the rapine of party. The
town council in vain endeavoured to augment the respectabiUty and the power
of the provost, in order to enable him to cope with criminals who were too
powerful for the enfeebled state (a).

At length arrived the regent from France, in November 1521. The queen
who no longer found " sweet solace " in her husband Angus, went out, with
several nobles, to meet the protector, who was expected to atibrd relief from
lawless outrage. Angus fled with his unprincipled followers to the English
borders ; and Albany displaced the magistrates of Edinburgh, who owed their
choice to the recommendation of that notorious anarch (b). Henry VIII. added
the distresses of foreign to the turmoils of civil war, when the truce expired,
in February 1522. He sent a small squadron into the Forth, where they seized
some ships and ravaged some towns on either shore ; but, being resolutely
opposed, this hostile squadron retired without doing much damage or gaining
any fame. The parliament which assembled at Edinburgh, on the 18th of
July 1522, seems to have partaken of the general imbecility of the state. At
the desire of the queen and regent, the Estates authorized the removal of the
king, who was advanced into his eleventh year, from Edinburgh castle to
Stirling, under the sole governance of Lord Erskine ; but they seem to have
been unable to reform the profligacy of manners, or to strengthen the weakness
of the laws.

In September 1523, arrived Albany at Edinburgh from his second visit to
France. He brought with him arms and warlike stores for defending the
border from the unprincipled devastation of Henry VIII. He collected a vast
army on the moor of Edinburgh, with which he marched through the Lothians
to Northumberland ; but he returned without effecting any object which was
worthy of such a force or of such expense. He met the parliament at Edin-
burgh, in November 1523, for the last time ; and on the 20th of May 1524,
he departed for ever from Holyroodhouse to France, leaving the Scottish govern-
ment open to be seized by whatever pretender to rule.

In July 1524, the queen brought her son from Stirling to Edinburgh, where
they were received with loud acclaims, and conducted, by a numerous proces-
sion, to Holyroodhouse ; and a proclamation was now made that the king,
being in his thirteenth year, had assumed the government, though a dif-
ferent destination had been made by the Three Estates. Several lords, spiritual
as well as temporal, and other persons, entered into an association to support

(a) Maitland, 17. (b) Holinshed, 307.

€10 As ACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— EdinbiirghMre.

the king's administration, which he thus, under his mother's influence, prema-
turely assumed (c). The queen made but an indifterent use of the power which
she thus assumed. At the instigation of Wolsey, she committed the chancellor
James Beaton, the ai'chbishop of St. Andrews and Dunbar, the bisliop of
Abei-deen to Edinburgh castle, on the frivolous pretence that they were
friends of Albany and enemies of England [d). This capricious princess seems
not to have known that steadiness and modemtion are the two pillars of legiti-
mate government.

She called a parliament at Edinburgh in November 1524. James Preston
the provost, was one of the commissioners who opened the meeting of the
Estates (e). As a representative of burghs, Preston was appointed one of
the lords of the articles {/). While the parliament was thus sitting, the Earl
of Angus, with other chiefc and four hundred armed followers, broke into
Edinburgh ; at the cross, they proclaimed themselves to be good subjects ; and
as a proof of their avowal, they went to the council of state, and required that
the queen might be deprived of the guardianship of the infant king. The castle
fired upon the town in order to expel the insurgents, and killed some innocent
persons. Several nobles assembled a body of hackbutters, in order to assault
Angus and his insurgents ; but upon receiving the king's order, that unscrupu-
lous noble with his followers, withdrew to Dalkeith {g). The queen continued
for some time in Edinburgh castle with her sou, repenting, perhaps, her own
imprudence, and fearing the violence of Angus {K).

From this safe retreat, the queen issued a proclamation in January 1524-5,
against her husband, Angus Beaton, the chancellor, who had now coalesced, and

(c) The magistrates of Edinburgli entered into tliat association, which was signed by Francis Both-
well, the provost ; James Preston, baillie ; Edward Litil, the dean of guild ; and Alexander Nenthovn,
the treasurer. The bond of the asaociators is in Calig. vi. 378. Bothwell, the provoet, resigned his
office at the king's desire, under a protest that his resignation should not be drawn into precedent.
Lord Maxwell was chosen in his room. The king and the queen mother occupied the castle for their
residence. Lesley, 12-13,

(<l) They were liberated at the enl of two months' imprisonment. Several other persons of less
note were also conBued in that state prison.

(e) Pari. Rec. 543. (/) lb. 544.

{g) Magnus's Letter to Wolsey, of the 26th November. Calig. b. i. 121.

{h) Magnus's Letter to Eatcliffe. Calig. B. i. 121. In 1524, on the day of All Saints, there
happened a tremendous stonn, which ovj.threjv several houses in the town, and damaged the castle,
blowing down the pinnacle of David's tower, and firing the queen's lodging. Lesley, 414, intimates,
that the bishop of Candida Casa's chamber was spared, while other buildings were over-
throwu.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 611

other nobles who had convened at St. Andrews, in order to concert measures
for depriving her of her rule and the custody of her son. In their turn, at the
end of twenty days' deliberation and intrigue, they issued a declaration, setting
forth with factious exaggeration, that the king was kept in Edinburgh castle,
an unhealthy place, exposed to the moist air of the Nor-Loch, and threatened
with the fury of storms ; and obsei'ving the danger of tumults in the
capital, which themselves had raised, they ordained a convention to meet at
Stirling on the 6th of the subsequent February. About that time, the magis-
trates and people of Edinburgh invited Angus and Lennox into their
town. The two nobles immediately repaired thither, attended by seven hundred
men and followed by their partizans, who had resolved to hold their convention
at Edinburgh, which adopted their designs, and offered protection to their
sitting. Nor did the castle fire upon them, as their fears had apprehended,
and misrepresentation had led them to expect. The queen now found it neces-
sary to conciliate, and she entered into an agreement with Angus and the
chancellor, by which she shared with them her patronage, and relinquished
to them some of her power. By this reconcilement, which was settled by
corruption, the infant king was to be i-emoved from the castle to Holyrood-
hovise, and to remain under the care of a council of nobles, which was to be
appointed by parliament, and of which she was to be president. Two days
after, on the 23rd of February 1524-5, the parliament assembled in the
Tolbooth of Edinburgh, to which the king went in person; having the crown
borne before him by Angus, the sceptre by Arran, and the sword by Argyle.
When the lords of the articles were chosen. Lord Maxwell, the provost of
Edinburgh, and its commissary to the estates, was appointed one of that com-
mittee of legislation. This is an example of the many anomalies which degraded
the Scottish parlianiient, that a noble having a seat by birth, could sit as a
commissioner by choice. The Estates now ratified the late agreement for the
partition of patronage, and the division of power {i), and they ordained that
the captain of the castle should not presume to fire, upon any occasion, without
the authority of the council i and that no gunners should enter it without
the consent of the same council, which thus acquired the command of the
citadel {h).

({) Pari. Bee. 547.

(k) lb. 548. We may judge of the value of houses in the Scottish metropolis, at that epoch, by
what Magnus, the English envoy, wrote to Wolsey in Apiil 1525. " He had offered 20 marks Sterling
of yearly rent for his house in Edinburgh." Calig. b. vii, 61. '

612 A N A C C 0 U N T [Cb. Y.— Edinburghshire.

Whatever may have been the influence of Edmburgh on the governments of
James II. and James III., it became during the minority of James V. a constant
scene of bloody tumult. We have already seen the contests of the Hamiltons,
with Arran at their head, and the Douglases, who were conducted to violence
by Angus. In 1525, the ascendency of this ambitious person was such, as to
dictate to the metropolis and kingdom. At the election of that year, he caused
his uncle Archibald Douglas to be chosen provost. Meantime, in July 1525,
the artifice of Angus assembled a parliament at Edinburgh, for the purpose
chiefly of ratifying the treaty with England. To this parliament, the queen
mother, who was president of the council of regency, declined to come ; alleg-
ing her fear of her husband Angus ; but he tried to satisfy her scruples, by
ottering security, that she might pass and repass through Edinburgh with her
household during the sitting of parliament, and three days after its proroga-
tion (l). From such traits of manners, we may perceive the barbarousness of
the age and the fury of faction. Under the same domination, the parlia-
ment again assembled at Edinburgh on the 13th of June 1526 (m). Herein
appeared Archibald Douglas, the provost of the town, who, from this circum-
stance, was chosen one of the lords of the articles, and promoted the designs
of his chief (h). Under this influence the Estates abolished the regency, by
declaring the king's minority at an end when he became fourteen years of
age (o) ; and they incidentally delivered the king and nation to the arbitrary
rule of Angus (p). Under that influence, Archibald Douglas was chosen
provost of Edinburgh, and its representative in the Estates ; and he was again,
from that circumstance, chosen one of the committee of articles, which had so
great an influence in the proposing of laws. When the delegates of the
burghs brought the matter of the staple before the estates, Archibald

(/) Pari. Eec. 651. (m) lb. 557.

(n) Archibald Douglas was appointed principal searcher of the port of Leitb, and in every other
port within the kingdom. lb. 562. He was also Treasurer of the Ciistomarie of Edinburgh. lb.
605. And he was treasurer to the king.

(o) lb. 558. There was a grant to John Chesholm of 401. yearly pension out of the great customs
of Edinburgh, ratified by that parliament. lb. 565.

(p) Soon after, Patrick Blackader. the archdeacon of Dunblane, who came to Edinburgh under a
safe conduct from Angus, was slain at the gates of the metropolis by the Homes and Douglases.
Thomas Maclellan of Bombie was assassinated on the 11th July 1526, at the door of St. Giles's
Church, by Sir James Gordon of Lochenvar, and Sir James Douglas of Dinimlanrig, and seven-and-
thirty followers. The principal assassins walked the streets of Edinburgh during the sitting of that
parliament, under the protection of the Douglases. Christ. Dacre's Letter to Lord Dacre, dated 2d
December. Calig. b. vi. 420 ; Crawf. Peer, 238.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 613

Douglas, the provost of Edinburgh was appointed to produce the contract
thereupon, in the hishop of Aberdeen's lodgings {q). In November 1526, the
queen, owing to her son's desire, returned to Edinburgh. The king, the
nobles, and other persons rode out to meet her at Corstorphine ; and the whole
cavalcade proceeded through the town to the palace of Holyrood {>•).

The queen greatly resembled her brother Henry VIII. in some of hic> most
striking features. She was amorous ; she was capricious ; and in March 1527,
she retired in disgust from Edinburgh, because Lady Avondale, her husband's
mother, was not received at Court (s). In the subsequent September, she seems to
have returned, when she resumed her influence over her youthful and affectionate
son. They spent their Christmas together in Holyroodhouse. But she could
not be long quiet. On some difference with Angus, she withdrew with her
husband Henry Stewart, and his brother, to the refuge of Edinburgh castle.
But Angus was not a man to be dismayed or disappointed, and he besieged
this strength on the 27th of March 1528 ; and even brought the king to
sanction the attack upon his mother. She now opened the gates, and throwing
herself upon her knees before the king, she begged his protection for her hus-
band and brother. Yet, Angus committed them prisoners to the castle ;
whence they were released after a while by the king's order and his mother's
solicitation' (t).

James V. bore the domination of the Douglases with extreme impatience.
He freed himself by his own enterprise, after the attempts of his friends had
failed. Residing at Falkland, under a slight superintendence he rode a fleet
horse, accompanied only by a groom, to Stirling castle, where he found a secure
retreat. The nobles crowded around him, a circumstance which evinces their
hatred of the Douglases. Angus was then in Lothian ; Archibald Douglas,

(q) Pari. Eec. 566. It was owing perhaps to the influence of the provost, that, on account of the
great resort to Edinburgh, all persons were empowered to sell bread and Jlesh on the appointed market
days of Edinburgh. lb. 570.

(»■) The queen, said Christopher Dacre to Lord Dacre, on the id December 1526. lyes in the
chamber where the duke lay [the deceased Duke of Ross, her youngest son.] The king lyes
in the chamber above her all in a lodging. The king is amynded not to lye far from her ; nor
will he never be far from her except he be either hunting or sporting. It is thought and spoken,
during all this parliament time, that if the king do remain with the queen, the court will have a
turn, for the king has no affection to the Earl of Angus or the Earl of Arran. Calig. b. vi. 420 ;
Pink. Hist. ii. 478-9.

(,?) Magnus to Wolsey, on tlie 26th of March 1527. Calig. b. iii. 301.
(t) Lesley, 427-8.

4 41

614 An ACCOUNT Ch. X.—EdinburgMire.

the j3rovost of Edinbiu-gh, was then at Dundee ; the other Douglases, who had
guarded the king, soon gave notice of his flight ; and they all repaired to the
metropolis, the seat of their influence. Angus was disappointed, but not
dismayed. He summoned his retainers to repair to his standard at Edinburgh,
during the last week of June 1528, to confront the king and his friends at
Stirling. But he soon found that the unfortunate have few friends. Yet,
had he partizans in the royal councils, who betrayed the king's designs to his
enemies (u). In the beginning of July, Angus and his followers marched
from Edinburgh towards Stu'ling, to regain possession of the king's person.
Nor, must be forgotten the parliamentary declaration on the 14th of June
1526, that the king's minority had terminated, and his own administration
begun (x). On the road, Angus was met by a herald bearing the king's
proclamation, which prohibited any of the Douglases or their followers from
coming within six miles of the coui't. This denunciation, with the intelligence
of the king's force at Stirling, disheartened the insurgents, who retreated to
Linlithgow (?/). The king was thus induced to advance upon their steps,
and on the 6th of July 1528, attended by many bishops, nobles, and their
armed followers, he marched forward to Edinburgh. The king, for some days,
remained in the lodging of the archbishop of St. Andrews. On the 9th of July
he issued a proclamation, forbidding any of his subjects to hold any intercourse
with Angus, his two brothel's, or uncle ; and that none of their followers should
remain within the capital, on pain of death (s). On the 11th and 13th of July, the
king assembled his council " in the upper chamber of the Tolhooth ; " and deter-
mined to call the parliament on the 2nd of September 1528. Lord Maxwell was
chosen the provost of Edinburgh in the room of Archibald Douglas, who was
summoned to appear in parliament on a charge of treason (o). The king
now retired to Stirling, where he was more safe from surprise than at
Edinburgh {b). Nor was this circumspection unfounded. Archibald Douglas,
the uncle, and George Douglas, the brother of Angus, approached Edinburgh
with some foi'ce and attempted to seize it; but Lord Maxwell, the provost,

((/) Pari. Rec. 580-1, which represents those matters very differently from the common
accounts, which suppose that the Douglases followed the king from Falkland palace to Stirling
castle.

(x) Pari. Rec. 558. (y) Pitscottie, 258.

(£•) Dacre's Letter to Wolsey. Calig. b. i. 17. (a) Pari. Rec. 580.

(6) Dacre to Wolsey. Calig. b. i. 17. From that time to the meeting of parliament, the Douglases
wasted Mid-Lothian, carrying the torch and sword through the estates of Cousland and Cranston,
even to the walls of Edinburgh. Holinshed, 316 ; Drummond, 295.

Sect. VI.— Its Civil Histori/.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B R I T A I N . 615

surprised and defeated them (c). The object of this rebellious expedition was
to pi'event the meeting of parliament ; a traitorous motive, which was very
familiar to Scottish factions.

The parliament assembled, however, at Edinburgh, in respectable numbers,
on the 2nd of September 1528, the appointed day. Lord Maxwell took his
place, both as a lord of parliament, and as the commissioner of Edinburgh ;
when he was chosen one of the committee of articles for concerting measures (d).
The Earl of Angus, his lirother George, his uncle Archibald, and some of
their guilty followers, were forfeited as traitors (e). Preparations were imme-
diately made to carry this: forfeiture into full eifect. Under the authority of
parliament, the king summoned the whole fighting men of the southern shires,
to attend him in arms at Edinburgh on the 7th of September, to march to
Haddington ( /). Meantime, Angus sent some cavalry, who burnt two villages
in Lothian on the king's route ; saying, in the savage language of the times,
that they would light him on his way (g).

When such a spirit prevailed, we ought not to wonder that such traitors
should aim their odiovis daggers at the king's life. On the 2nd of February
1528-9, the Douglases held a meeting at St. Leonard's chapel near Edinburgh,
to concert the assassination of their sovereign, and it was agreed by
them to enter the king's bed-chamber, and close the scene by a mortal
blow (/i). But, such secrets, which are entrusted to many can never be kept ;
and such a plot, when once discovered, could not be easily executed. They
were all forfeited, but could not be executed, and Archibald Douglas, when he
secretly returned to Edinburgh and threw himself at the king's feet, was only
exiled to France (i).

The discovery of that plot, and the vigorous measures which were pursued
against the men on the borders, seem to have given unusual quiet to Scotland,

(d) Pari. Eec. .577-8. (e) lb. 580-1. (/) lb. 578.

(ff) Lassel's Letter to the Earl of Northumberland, on the 11th of September 1528. Calig. b.
vii. 14.

(/i) The assassins who met on that traitorous design were Archibald Douglas, the uncle of
Angus, James Douglas of Parkhead, Robert Leslie and Sir James Hamilton, the bastard of the Earl of
Arran, and of late the king's favourite. They were to enter the palace by a window at the bedhead,
which was pointed out by Sir James Hamilton, who used to share the king's bed. This plan was
communicated to Angus and his brother by James Douglas at Tantallon castle, when it was finally
fixed. Pari. Rec. 624-657 ; Diicre's Letter to Wolsey ; Calig. b. i. 17.

(i) Lesley, 226 ; Hume of Godscroft.

616 An account Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

and freed the metropolis from intrigue. Adam Otterburn, the king's advo-
cate, was chosen provost of Edinburgh in 1531, and one of the commissioners,
who held a court of pai'liament in May and June 1531 (k). May 1532 is the
epoch of the greatest event in the annals of the Scottish metropolis. After various
establishments for the administration of right had been essayed, the College
of Justice was, at that epoch, settled (?). The town became now a place of more
resort; and on the 18th of June 1532, the magistrates contracted with two
French paviours to make a causey (m). On the 19th of September, in the
same year, the council of Edinburgh voluntarily offered to the king three
hundred men, completely armed, for the royal array, when he should require
them to take the field against then' ancient adversaries (n). But such distract-
ing warfare did not long continue to vex the king, or to distress the people, on
either side of the conterminous borders.

In addition to other causes of perturbation, the reformers now began to create
disturbance, without much inconvenience to any one but themselves. The
2Sth of Februaiy 1528-9, is the epoch of the first punishment which was
inflicted for religious opinions. Patrick Hamilton thus suffered for heresy, after
a trial, by ecclesiastical authority, in 1529, even before the reformers wei-e as
yet known by the name of Protestants at the diet of Spiers (o). In August
1534, Norman Gourlav and David Stratan, were also tried and condemned

(!c) Pari. Eec. 588. In the parliaments of 1533 and 1534, James Lawson, the provost, was also one
of the commissioners who held a similar court. lb. 592-3.

(/) lb. 589 ; Black Acts, fo. csiv., csv., cxvi.. which were ratified by the king at Stirling, on the
10th of June 1532. lb. fo. csvii.

(ni) Maitland. 12. In 1535, a grant was made to the abbot of Holyrood of a duty of one penny on
every loaded cart, and a half-penny for every empti/ cart, for repairing and maintaining his causey of
the Canon-gate. Scotstarvit's Calendar.

(n) Maitland, 12 ; Arnot, 15. Hostilities were then about to break out., and mutual in-
roads took place. But none of those hostile invasions reached Edinburgh, or even the limits of
Lothian.

(o) Keith's Hist. 8. There is, happily, preserved the very first reforming treatise, which was pro-
bably written in Scotland, upon the principles of Luther, before Calvin was known to fame. It is
entitled, " The richt way to the kingdome of hevine is techit heir in the s commandis of God ; and in
the Creid | and pater noster | In the quhilk al Christine men sal find al thing that is needful and
requirit to onderstand to the salvation of the soul.'' It was written by Jhone Gau, after the execution
of Hamilton, which he feelingly deplores ; and it was printed at Malmoe by Jhone Hochstraten, the
svi day of October 1533. Malmoe stands in Sweden, opposite to Copenhagen. This is an elegant
book. Had all been like this ! As Chapman and Myllar had ceased to print before 1530, I doubt
whether there were a printing press at that epoch in Scotland.

Sect. YL.—Its Civil History.] 0 f N 0 R_T H - B E I T A I N. G 1 7

for heresy at Holyi-oodhouse, and were executed at the Greenside(p). When
we see Calvin condemn Servetus to the stake ; when we perceive the Keformed
Church of Scotland, adopting the persecuting principles of Calvin, and carrying
his odious practices into full effect; when we see the Convention of 1689
ordain a coronation oath, which required the king "to be careful to root
"out all heretics, that shall be convicted by the true kirk of God, within
" Scotland ;" and which King William refused to swear ; we may be forgiven if
we forbear to lament over the fate of men, who came out to propagate their
doctrines in the face of the law, and were content to fall for them under the axe
of the law.

Very different scenes were soon exhibited in the same neighboiu-hood.
James V. arrived from France with Magdalene, his first consort, at Leith, on
the 13th of May 1537. She kissed the earth, thanked God for her happy
voyage, and prayed for the prosperity of Scotland. She now passed to the
palace of Holyrood, where she remained till preparations were made for her
triumphant entry into Edinburgh (q). She soon after was conducted through
the capital, attended by magnificent processions and joyous acclaims. But
such joys were of short duration. Forty days saw her carried amid mournful
lamentations to Holyrood Abbey (r). In July 1538, Mary of Guise, the second
queen of James V., after solemnizing their marriage at St. Andrews, and visiting
several towns, entered Edinburgh, where she was welcomed with rich presents,
great triumphs, and " with farces and plays " (s).

Meantime Edinburgh, in the midst of all those joyous entertainments, was
a town disgustful to the eye, and repulsive to the understanding (t). The

{p) Keith, 8-9. In the same year, Calvin fled from France to Bale, where he wrote his Institution.
In February 1538-9, there was a meeting of bishops at Edinburgh, who condemned various persons
to be burnt for heresy, on the castle hill. lb. 9. In that year, Calvin was driven away from Geneva ;
he was received back in triumph ; and caused Sei'vetus to be burnt for heresy.
(q) Pitsoottie, 291 ; Lesley, 445.

(r) Sir David Lyndsay gives a poetical account of those events in his Deploratiou for the death of
Queen Magdalene. («) Pitscottie, 295.

(t) Dunbar, the greatest of the Scottish poets, who flourished under James IV., in his Satire on
Kdinhurijh, cried out schctme upon the magistracy :

" May nane pass throu your principal gaittis,
For stink of haddockis and of scattis.
For cryis of carlingis and debaittis.
For fensive flyttingis of defame ;
Think ye not schame ?
Befoir strangeris of all Estaittis,
That sic dishonour hurt your name.''

618 An ACCOUNT [Gh. Y—Edinburffhskire.

parliament which met at Edinburgh in March 1540-1, endeavoured, with
honest diUgence, " to mend those deformities," by passing an Act " touching
"the reparations within the town of Edinburgh" (u). On the same day,
another act was passed, requirmg the meal-market to be removed from the
High-street to " some honest place," whei"e the king's people may convene for
buying and selling, thereafter, such victuals (x).

From domestic reforms the king's attention was soon drawn to foreign
treaty. But as the negotiation ended in hostilities, he was mduced to summon
an army in October 1541, on the burgh-moor of Edmburgh ; and he
thence marched, with thirty thousand men under corrupt leaders, to repel
the invaders of his kingdom on the south (y). A similar event, but still more
disastrous, at Sol way moss on the western border, where the Scottish army
either surrendered or fled, converted the king's indignation into despair. From
Caerlaverock he retired to Edinburgh, and thence to Falkland, where he died
on the 14th of December 1542 (2) ; and he was bui-ied in the south-east
vaiilt of the abbey church of Holyrood, by the side of his first wife, Magdalene
of France.

The unhappy king James V., was succeeded by his daughter, Mary Stewart,
an infant of a week old. Henry VIII. instantly resolved to obtain possession of
the pei'son of the Scottish queen, either by force or artifice ; and for this
end he entered mto various intrigues, and a formal treaty (a). But he was

(u) Pari. Eec. 634. The ruinous houses and wastes on the west side of Leith Wynd, were now
dii'ected to be built within a year and day, or the magistrates were required to cause the tenements to
be appraised and sold ; and if no one should be found to buy and rebuild them, the magistrates were
authorized to pull down the ruinous tenements, and with the materials to build a substantial wall from
the Nether-Bow port to the Trinity college. As the east side of Leith Wynd belonged to the abbot
and convent of Holyrood, the bailies of the Canongate were ordained to cause the same reparations to
be done upon it ; and on account of the filth tuat arose by slaughtering of beasts on the east side, the
magistrates of Edinburgh, and the Canongate, were required to forbid the same in future, under pain
of confiscation of the flesh slain.

(x) Pari. Eec. 635. There were enacted, at the same time, two laws, for enabling all persons to
sell bread and fish in Edinburgh on three market days in eveiy weeek. lb. 637-8.

(y) Lesley, 457. Pitscottie, 316, says, that the king marched from the burgh moor through
Lothian to Falaw, and thence to Barlawhaugh, near the kirk of Lauder, an ominous place, where the
king held a council, when the peers refused to advance into England, intelligence having reached them
that the English army, under Norfolk, had retreated from the Scottish territoiy. The king in-
dignantly retired and dismissed his army. Lesley, 457.

(z) Keith, X. ; Lesley, 459; Pitscottie, 276; and the monumental inscription in Monteith"s Theatre
of Mortality, ii. 5.

(a) Sir Ralph Sadler's Negociations, throughout.

Sect. VI.— /is Civil Histoi-y.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 619

too impatient to wait the slow fulfilment of his own stipulations for eftecting his
favourite object. Of his impatience more able men took their advantage. Owing
to his breach of faith, the governor and council at Edinburgh, on the 23rd of
September 1543, declared the treaty itself to be void (b). Henry was not a
prince to bear such a disappointment without revenge, and on the 3rd of
May 1544, the Earl of Hertford arrived in the Forth, with a numerous fleet
and a large army. He landed at Roystou, and took Leith (c). Edinburgh,
the Abbey of Holyrood, and the palace adjoining, were burnt. After destroy-
ing the pier of Leith and carrying off the ships, the English army set out on
their return, by land, leaving "neither pyle, village, town, nor house in
their way homewards, unburnt (d)." As there seems to have been no resist-
ance, it was easy to deliver to devastation the country and the towns. In May
1545, a reinforcement arrived at Leith from France, under the command of
Lorge Montgomery. A general council assembled at Edinburgh, on the 28th
of June, when an army of fifteen thousand men were ordered to assemble on
Roslin mooi', and soon after marched to the boi-ders, with their French
auxiliaries (e), but without performing any exploit worthy of their ancient
fame. In May and July, 1547, there were two several arrays of the fighting men

(b) Keith, 32. Meantime, a civil war arose within the Scottish metropolis. The election of the
magistrates had long been confined to the merchants, an exclusion which roused the jealousy of the
tradesmen. Violent contests naturally ensued. On the 11th of August 1543, the magistrates having
passed an ordinance, which seemed to infringe the privileges of the craftsmen, were opposed in the
town-house by their deacons, who drew their swords, with an avowed purpose to defend their liberties.
An armed force rescued the magistrates, and the deacons were imprisoned. The craftsmen arrayed
themselves in defence of their deacons. The Regent Arran was obliged to interpose ; and after various
commitments, this troublesome collision of urban irascibility seems to have ended by some com-
promise.

(d) The contemporary accounts in Dalziel's Fragments, 9. That ancient author has left a very use-
ful detail of the prodigious mischief which was done in Edinburghshire during the Earl of Hertford's
campaign of 1544. The town of Edinburgh, with the Abbey of Holyrood, and the king's palace
adjoining, were burnt. The town of Leith was burnt and the haven destroyed. The castle
and village of Craigmillar were burnt. The Abbey of Newbotle was burnt. Part of Musselburgh,
with the chapel of Loret, were burnt. Roslin castle was burnt. Laureston, with the grange, near
Edinburgh, were burnt. Inverleith, with the pile and town, were burnt. Broughton, near Edinburgh,
was destroyed. Cramond, Dudiston, The Ficket, Stonhouse, Chesterhall, Drylaw, and Wester-Crag,
were all destroyed. lb. 11-12.

(e) Keith, 47-8. Cardinal Beaton called a provincial council of the clergy to meet at Ediubuigh,
in the Blackfriavs church, on the 13th of January 1545-6, to refonn the principles and practice of the
clergy. lb. 41.

620 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \.—Edlnburghsfiire.

of the southern shires assembled at Edinburgh {/) ; yet, the protector Som-
erset entered Scotland in September 1547. And he soon after defeated the
Scottish powers, with such superiority of advantage, as seemed to deliver the
country into his hands without further resistance (g). The invading foe now
attempted Edinburgh, destro3"ed Leith, took Dalkeith, and retired homeward,
carrying fire and sword through a wretched land.

In May 1548, Desse brought from France a i-einforcement of six thousand
men to a feeble government and a distracted people. After a while he marched
from EdinbTU'gh, with the allied troops, to fight their old enemies on Pinkie-
field ; but the English army retired before superior numbers to Hadding-ton,
where they were vmsuccessfully besieged, in autumn 1848. Yet the English,
by driving the young queen to France, lost the great object of the war, which
was as absurd in its principle as it was wasteful in its practice. Meantime,
Desse threw up some works at Inveresk, as an advanced post for Leith and Edin-
burgh (h). But he withdrew his army into the metropolis during the winter,
when such bloody tumults ensued between the soldiers and the townsmen, as
obliged him to withdraw towards Haddington, which he in vain attempted to
surprise. The French general now fortified Leith, in order to keep up a
necessary communication with France. The fortification, however, did not
prevent the English fleet from approaching Leith, in June 1549, from seizing
some ships, and from fortifying Inch-Keith, which was garrisoned by the
English ; and soon after taken by the French (^). Those inefiicient, yet waste-
ful struggles, during a war of revenge rather than of policy, were closed by a
peace, which was concluded between the belligerent parties, on the 24th of

(/) Keith, 52. (g) Patten's Account, 54—70.

(h) On the 10th of January 1548-9, the privy council ordered a fort to be built at Inveresk. The
town of Edinburgh was directed to furnish 300 workmen, with proper tools, for sis days. The
same council ordained that every plough of eight oxen, between Linlithgow and Haddington, should
furnish a man, properly provided with entrenching tools, during the same time of six daj's ; and
every patch plough [a plough laboured in common by several people] to furnish two men, under
pain of forty shillings, for every such plough. MS. Extracts from the Privy Council Rec.
Keith's App. 57. In the governor and council's answer, on the 22d of April 1550, to the French
Memorial, they intimated that, to save charges, the fort of Inveresk would be kept by the abbot
of Dunfermline upon caution, and that the king of France would put garrisons into Dunbar, Black-
ness, Broughty Castle, and Inch-Keith, for commanding the entrance into the principal rivers.
Keith's Hist. 63.

(t) On the 29th of June 1549, the Inch [island] between Leith and Kingorne, was wonne from the
Englishmen by the Frenchmen. Birrel's Diary.

Sect. Yl.—IU Civil History.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. C21

March 1549-50 ; and whicli was soon after proclaimed at Edinburgh (k). The
French troops immediately returned to France, except the garrisons of Inch-
Keith and Dumbarton ; and in September 1550, the queen Dowager, with
many of the Scottish nobles, followed them in the fleet which Strozzi conducted
to Leith for that purpose (Z). In December 1551, the dowager queen returned
through England to Edinburgh, where she was received by the governor and
nobles with distinguished honours (m).

At Edinburgh, on the 26th of January 1551-2, was assembled a provincial
council of the clergy, which ordained that a catechism should be published in
the English tongue, for explaining the great duties of Christianity, as they are
contained in the commandments, the belief, and the common prayer (n).

The object of the queen dowager's voyage to France soon began to appear
by the effects of her intrigues. The Duke of Chatelherault agreed to resign
to her ambition the regency of her daughter's kingdom. To effectuate this
consequential object, the parliament was assembled at Edinburgh on the 10th
of April 1554 (o). Two days thereafter, the Estates ratified the previous agree-
ment of the regent and queen, when the insignia of power were delivered into
her fairer and feebler hands (p) ; and the castle of Edinburgh was now com-
mitted to the doubtful charge of Lord Erskine (g). Under this female adminis-
tration plays were acted at Edinburgh, much of the expense being paid by the
magistrates (r) ; and the streets were ordered by the town council to be lighted,
ill order to prevent robberies (s).

Very different scenes were acted soon after at Edinburgh, where John
Knox arrived in October 1555. He preached and taught secretly. Among

(k) Bym. xv. 255 ; Lesley, 507. (0 Keith, 5G ; Lesley, 508.

(m) Keith, 57 ; Lesley, 521.

(n) Spottiswoode, 92 ; Keith, C3. Such a catechism was printed at St. Andrews by the com-
mand and at the expense of Archbishop Hamilton, on the 29th of August 1552. As this
elegant and useful book was thus printed by the advice of the bishops and other prelates of the
Scottish church, at the expense of the archbishop, it was sold at the low price of tivo pence, for the
purpose of general circulation ; and it was sarcastically called by vulgar malignity, the two penny
faith.

(o) Keith, 59; Lesley, 521.

(/)) Queen Mary, says Birrel, received the government from the Duke of Hamilton. Diary, 12th
April 1554.

{q) Lesley, 518; Keith, 59.

(?•) Council Reg. 12th October 1554. The play, which was made by William Lawder, was acted
before the queen regent in December 1554. Id.

(s) Jlaitland's Edin. 14.

4 4 K

622 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

other pei-sons who resorted to his private preachings, was Maitland, the
younger of Lethington, who, endeavouring to ai'gue with Knox on the law-
fulness of the mass, was converted by him (t). Knox's success was at
length noticed by the government ; and in May 1556 he was summoned
to appear before an ecclesiastical judicatory in the Blackfriars church at
Edinburgh. A concourse of people assembled at the same time and place
to protect the preacher. Owing to some informality the summons was quashed.
His preachings were now much more frequented ; and in July 1556, accept-
ing an invitation from the Enghsh congregation at Geneva, he departed from
Edinburgh. He was again summoned, and faihng to appear, he was con-
demned as a heretic, and was adjudged to be burnt in effigy at the cross of
Edinburgh {u). The people were rather irritated than frightened, and they
entered St. GUes' Chiurch and demoHshed the statues. The regent queen,
hearing of this outrage, wrote to the magistrates complaining of certain halades
and rhymes that had been set forth by some persons within their town, who
had also contemptuously broken the images ; and she ordered them to dis-
cover the offenders and communicate their names to the archbishop (x). But
such mandates were issued in vain. Meantime, the queen regent assembled a
parliament at Edinburgh in May 1556 (y), in order to establish the feeble
measures of a female sovereign. She proposed to have the whole lands within
the kingdom registered, with the odious purpose of raising money for maintain-
ing a standing force to defend the realm from the common enemy. This pro-
posal was rejected with indignation ; and three hundred of the lesser barons
assembled at Edinburgh, and sent two delegates with a remonstrance against
measures so new and destructive of their interests. The queen relmquished
measures that were thus opposed and could not be eftected (:). While the
queen regent was in this manner disappointed, the town council augmented
the provost's allowance to £100 Scots for clothing and spicery, with two hogs-
heads of wine ; and ordered the servants of the inhabitants to attend hira with
torches from vespers to his residence (a).

The year 1557 opened with the arrival of other reformers, Harlow and
Willock, who preached their doctrine with great zeal and some success at
Edinburgh and in Leith {u). The 3d of December 1557 is the epoch of the first
covenant, which was signed by a few nobles at Edinburgh, and which formed

(<) Knox, 99-100 ; Spottiswoode, 93.

(m) Spottiswoode, 93-4 ; Keith, 64. (a-) Maitland, 14 ; Keith, App. 84.

\y) Pari. Eec. 744-6. (.) Lesley, 525-6 ; Keitb, 70.

(a) Maitland, 14, on the 4th of December 1556. (i) Keith, 64.

Sect. \l.~Its Civil Bisfoiy.} 0 f N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. 023

the origin of the congregation (c). On the 14th of the same month, a parHa-
ment was held at Edinburgh, which appointed commissioners for repairing to
Paris to affiance their Queen with the Dauphin of France (d) ; and Mary was
accordingly married to Francis, at Paris, on the 24th. of April 1558 (e). On
that agreeable occasion, the Magistrates of Edinburgh made adequate triumphs
by giving the people a i^lay for their amusement {/).

Very different scenes soon ensued. To other causes of discontent, the
querulous court of England now added the man-iage of Mary witb Francis.
An invasion from England being apprehended in June 1558, the burgesses of
Edinburgh voluntarily agreed to maintain upwards of seven hundred men with
complete appointments. The craftsmen equally resolved to raise nearly the same
number for the defence of their town (</). In the midst of those threats and
preparations, a synod met at Edinburgh in July 1558 (Ji). Several persons
were now summoned for heresy, and as they did not readily meet this
polemical summons, they were ordained to make a public I'ecantation at the
market-cross of Edinburgh, on the 1st of September, the day of St. Giles, the
patron of the metropolis ; but the populace no longer worshipped the saint of
their idolatry of old, and when the statue of St. Giles was brought out on his
usual festival, amid the recantations of heresy, which provoked them, a great
tumult ensued (i). The clergy now called a convocation to Edinburgh, in
November then next {h) ; but the chiefs of the reformers, under the name of
the congregation, in the meantime assembled, and directed Sir James Sandilands
to present a petition to the queen regent, craving a reform as well in the church
as in the state (/). The queen regent, who was thus called upon to answer one
of the most difficult questions, appeared to have enjoyed the confidence of the
town council of Edinburgh in a high degree [rii).

(d) Their commissiou was signed by the provosts of Stii'ling, Dundee, and Liulithgow, and by
Guthrie, the scribe of Edinburgh, and by Elder, the scribe of Perth. Pari. Eec, 738-9.

(«) On the 28th of November 1558, a Parliament assembled at Edinburgh, who ratified the queen's
marriage articles, who agreed to give her husband the crown matrimonial, and who appointed com-
missioners to carry that ratification and agreement into France. Pari. Eec, 729-43.

(/) Dalzell's Cursory Remarks, from the Town Records.

(g) Maitland's Hist. Edin., 15. (/;) Keith, G8.

(0 Maitland, 15; Arnot, 20-1 ; Keith, 68 ; Spottiswoode, 118. {!:) Id.

(/) Keith, 78-80.

(?«) The magistrates, on the 15th of December 1558, presented the queen, with whatever purpose,
with three tuns of the best wine and twenty pounds of wax. Maitiland, 15, from the Council
Register.

624 An ACCOUNT [Ch.V.—Edmburghshire.

While thus pressed by difficulties, the regent queen convened at Edinburgh
the most learned and judicious of the clergy in March 1559, to devise means
for allaying the ferments of reform. This synod sat upwards of a month, while
the parliaments generally sat less than a week. The reformers presented to the
queen their articles of amendment which they desired to be adopted (n) ; but
she naturally determined to support the synod, whose advice she had requu-ed (o).
John Knox soon after arrived from Geneva at Edinburgh, and immediately
began to preach seditiously in various towns. Violent perturbations there-
upon ensued, jsarticularly in Perth, where the populace either pulled down
or plundered the churches and monasteries. The regent thanked the magis-
trates of Edinburgh for preserving quiet, and supporting the provost, with an
allusion to the tumults of Perth. The town council of Edinburgh, dreading
the entrance of the reformed congregation for destroying their churches,
ordei'ed their gates to be shut, except two, to which they appointed guards (j)).
The reformers had now appealed to violence for effecting their amendment of
church and state, in defiance of law. They proceeded from Perth to Stirling,
where they demohshed the churches, the regent rething before them. From
Stirling the reformers advanced to Linhthgow, where they destroyed the
churches, and thence threatened the metropolis, whence the regent retired to
Dunbar, being informed by the provost that the town was somewhat infected
with the rage of reform ; yet the town council sent commissioners to meet
the reformers at Linlithgow, with earnest entreaties to spare the religious
houses ; and in the meantime, the magistrates placed a guard of sixty men
for protecting St. Giles's Church (q). As soon as the reformers entered Edin-
burgh, they seized the mint, with the instruments and materials for coining.
The regent queen now thought it necessary to issue a requisition, that they

(«) Lesley, 545-6-7 ; Keith, 81-2.

(o) Id. Meantime, a sort of civil war existed in Edinburgh between the magistrates and the
provost. Lord Seton, who seems to have acted arbitrarily. Maitland, 15.

{p) Maitland, 16.

(5) Knox, 196 ; Keith, 94 ; Maitland, 16. Lord Seton, the provost, placed guards in the
monasteries of the Black and Grey Friars, in one of which he lay every night ; but on the
approach of the reformers from Linlithgow, he retired, when the populace destroyed those magni-
ficent monuments of ancient piety ; so that when the reformers entered the capital on the 29th of
June 1559, they found only bare walls, whereby, said Knox, with his usual perversion of matter and
manner, "we were the less troubled in putting order to such places." Knox's Hist., 156. They
spoiled the abbey and palace of Holyrood. and even demolished the prebendal houses of Trinity
College. Lesley, 551.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. G25

should evacuate Edinburgh and the palace of Holyrood (r). Nothing is so
vain as such requisitions when the laws themselves are set at nought. The
reformers, who had virtually assumed the government, made answer to the
charge of robbing the mint, that the people being hurt by bad money, the
nobles, as counsellors by birth, had a right to stop the coining of money ; and
that they had delivered what coins they had found to the master of the mint (s).
We thus perceive, in those recriminations, the claims and assumptions of the
reformers in arms.

They now tried by a deputation to gain the town council of Edinbui-gh
and the legal government of the state (t). Their commissioners met the regent
queen at Preston, in East-Lothian ; and here specious terms were offered
on both sides, but there was not any agreement {u). The regent now learn-
ing that the lower orders of the reformers began to return to their several
dwellings, while their chiefs meant to remain at Edinburgh, advanced from
Dunbar with such force as she could muster, on Sunday evening the 23rd of
July, and arrived near Edinburgh at sunrise. The insurgent chiefs, learning
her intention, summoned their adherents from Lothian and Fife. They
promptly marched from Edinburgh to Leith, to circumvent the regent ; but
she had already obtained, by her vigour, possession of this important post.
They now endeavoured to regain Edinburgh, but when the governor of the
castle threatened to fire upon them, they were glad to obtain their safety by a
treaty (x). The regent queen now repossessed the palace of Holyrood ; while
the insurgents retired to Stirling, where they made a third covenant, which
evinced their purpose of perseverance (y).

Neither party seems to have perceived that such treaties are seldom per-
formed. When the regent applied to the town council of Edinburgh for the

(»•) Knox, 158; Keith, 95. (s) Knox, 158; Keith, 95 ; Spottiswoode, 127.

(t) Keith's App., 85 ; Maitland, 16.

(?/) Keith, 97. That meeting was on the 12th of July 1559.

(a-) On the 25th of July 1559, it was agreed that the insurgents should evacuate Edinburgh
and resign the mint, with the instruments of coinage, to the master ; to quit ^the palace of Holy-
rood ; to allow the people of Edinburgh to practice any religion they might think proper till the
10th of the subsequent January; and the insurgent reformers engaged to be obedient subjects
respecting the laws, and neither to molest the clergy nor pull down the churches and religious
houses ; and it was mutually stated that no soldiers, either French or Scots, should garrison
Edinburgh. Lesley, 553 ; Spottiswoode, 128-9 ; Keith, 98-9, wherein there are some differences of
representation. Keith, App., 86-7 ; Maitland, 17 ; and Arnot, 22, corrects some misrepresentations
of Robertson.

(y) Keith, 100.

626 AnACOOUNT [Oh. Y .—Edinburghshire.

use of St. Giles' church, that the rehgion of the State might be continued,
and that the reformed clergy might preach in some other place, the magistrates
refused to allow the mass to be in any manner performed within their church ;
and the French officers and soldiers now treated the reformed preachers
and congregations with contumely, even during their worship (2). In the
abbey of Holyrood and in Leith, the French soldiers cut down the reformed
pulpits and restored the mass (a). The queen issued a proclamation for quiet-
ing the minds of the reformed people (6).

At length, arrived at Leith, a reinforcement of a thousand French soldiers,
with promises of additional numbers (c). There were sent soon after, the
bishop of Amiens, as legate a latere, attended with some doctors of divinity,
to execute the hard task of supporting absurdity against reason (d). It seems
not to have been distinctly perceived that an appeal having been made to
violence from argument, force could only be opposed by force.

A sort of civil conflict existed at the same time within Edinburgh. The
magistrates were so decidedly for the reformers that Lord Seton, the provost,
could not preserve their attachment to the regent. The queen now supported
the pretensions of the deacons of the craftsmen to a vote in the town councils,
which had long been denied them by the guild brethren. She had already
restored the deacons to a vote in the annual election of magistracy. She, in the
end, by a special ordinance, directed that the deacons of the crafts in future
should be allowed to vote in the choosing of the council and officers. But
the town council refused obedience to this ordinance, as inconsistent with the
act of James I. in 1426(e). Against this refusal the deacons protested, and
even avowed their future disobedience { /). The regent endeavoured in vain
to support her party at the ensuing elections. Her strenuous friend. Lord
Seton, was ejected, and Archibald Douglas of Kilspindie was, in his place,
chosen provost (g).

(z) Spottiswoode, 129. The magistrates saying, we will practise a religion wliioli was yesterday
introduced by violence, but we will not allow a religion to be used which had been practised five
centuries under the law, naturally provoked the ridicule of soldiers.

(rt) Spottiswoode, 129 ; Knox, 70.

(l) Knox, 172-3. It was dated on the 28th of August 1559. (c) Keith, 101-2.

{(l) Lesley, 559. The legate and doctors arrived at Edinburgh on the 19th of September

1559.

(e) That order was presented on the 22nd of September 1559. The Act of Parliament, which was
quoted by the Town Council, is in the Black Acts, ch. 87, and the Pari. Rec, 18 ; but it does not bear
out the magistrates in their pretensions.

(/) Maitland, 18. {(/) Id.

Sect. VI.— /te Civil History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 627

The insurgent congregation assembled at Hamilton on the 29th of September
1559, when the late regent, the second person in the kingdom and presumptive
heir of the crown, for the first time joined them (h). By the union of such
a personage, the insurgents acquired much addition to their confidence. They
wrote to the regent, complaining that she had fortified Leith and garrisoned
it with French (i). They tried to gain Lord Erskine, the governor of Edin-
burgh castle, by threatening vengeance if he should continue to oppose
them (k). The regent, in her turn, endeavoured to draw away the duke fi-om
his associates, but without success. The insurgents now summoned their
adherents to Stirling, in order that they might march to Edinburgh and
prevent the fortifying of Leith (l). When the regent heard of those designs,
she charged the insurgents, by her proclamation, with violating their treaty
of the 25 th of July, by which they had promised not to seek the support of
England against their own government, and with taking Broughty castle in
order to admit foreign aid into the Tay. She avowed the fortification of Leith
as a measure of necessity for her own refuge, and the protection of her friends ;
and she charged the Scottish people to preserve their allegiance to their
sovereign, and to refuse their support to the duke and his associates (m). The
insurgents issued a counter proclamation, which is remarkable for gross mis-
representation and coarse invective (ii).

(h) Knox, 180-1 ; Spottiswoode, 131. The Duke of Hamilton had been converted by his son, the
Earl of Arran, whose wrongheadedness ended in confirmed insanity. The weakness of the duke did
not allow him to perceive that he hazarded his greatness, and his pretensions to the crown itself, by
lending his support to insurgents, who acted in avowed opposition to the laws whence he derived his
rights.

(i) Knos, 180-1 ; Spottiswoode, 131. The complaint of introducing French soldiers may have been
popular, but it was groundless in law ; for by the marriage of the queen with the dauphin, and
the statutes which followed thereon, Scotland and France were identified ; Scotsmen having in
France the rights of Frenchmen, and Frenchmen having in Scotland the rights of Scotsmen.
And the two nations had a right to make such a marriage, and such laws. England may have
thereby sustained some inconvenience ; but being an inconvenience without an injury. Queen Elizabeth
had scarcely any right of reclamation, on account of the introduction of the French troops ; and the
insurgents had no right to complain of such a measure, particularly as their actions were against
law.

{k) lb. (0 lb., 182. {m) lb., 185.

(») lb., 186-90. They ask, in answer to the regent's representations, if Leith had been fortified
of old, without the consent of the nobility and Estates. lb., 187. The estabUshed law on this head
was : The king could fortify any place without the consent of the nobles ; but a noble could not
fortify his castle without the license of the king. And this doctrine was recognised often by the
Estates, on prosecutions for treason, as we know from the Parliamentary Eecord. The magistrates

628 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y .— Edinburghshire.

The insurgents marched, on the 18th of October 1559, from Stu'lmg to
Edinburgh. On their approach, the regent removed from Holyi'oodhouse to
Leith. attended by the archbishops of St. Andi'ews and Glasgow, the bishop
of Dunkeld, Lord Seton, and others (o). On the morrow, they sent a written
requisition to the regent demanding the strangers and soldiers to be removed,
and the fortifications to be demolished {p). In answer to such a demand, from
such men, the regent sent Foreman, the lion herald, to intimate to them that
they had no right to their assumptions, and commanded them to evacuate
Edinburgh {q). They detained the herald, and on the morrow, the insur-
gent chiefs, with the provosts of Edinbui'gh, St. Andrews, Dundee, and
Aberdeen, held a convention in the Tolbooth of Edmburgh, over which Lord
Ruthven presided (r). He opened the business of the convention by a speech,
which he concluded, by moving, whether the regent, having refused their request,
ought to be suffered to domineer over such freemen. Some there were who
thought this motion, without moderation, and without precedent. The judgment
of the preachers was now required upon Ruthven's motion, and Willock and
Knox both proved from scripture that rebels may I'emove their rulers when-

could not fortify a town without the consent of the king ; and Edinbm-gh received a licence from
James 11., when it was fortified, long after it had become a corporate body. Leith, which was not a
corporation, had been fortified in 1549 by Desse, under the authority of the same duke when regent.
Knox, indeed, acknowledges " that the queen's papers gained most credit with the common people."
The regent's papers contained law and sense ; the insurgent papers were composed of assumption and
impertinence.

(o) Spottiswoode, 135.

(/>) Id. ; Knox, 193. A nunour being spread that the duke meant to usurp the government, '-he
made his purgation, with sound of trumpet, at the cross of Edinburgh.'' His proclamation is in
Knox, 193-4. He did not, however, make his purgation of not being a rebel against law. He
did not make his purgation of being a simpleton, for risking so great an inheritance without any
adequate interest. The purgation did not satisfy the people ; for, as we know from Knox, 192-3,
many of the brethren began to murmur and fly off, as the chiefs seemed to seek some other thing
than reUgion.

{q) Knox, 194-5 ; Keith. 103.

(r) This was Patrick, Lord Euthven, who was very active for the Eeformation, which, according to
Crawford, was very praiseworthy ; " but what lies heaviest on this lord's memory, says he, is the hand
he had in the murder of David Eizzio, a deed so odious that none will take upon them to justify it."
Peerage, 1G5. He died in exile, on the 13th of June 1566. His son William was executed for Ids
treasons on the 28th of April 1584 ; and his son John was slain during his treasonous attempt on
King James, in August 1600 ; and he and his brother Alexander, being attainted by parliament, their
heads were adjudged to be placed on the common gaol, " till the wind should blow them off.''
lb., 166.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil Historij.'] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 62 9

ever profligate preachers may think proper (a). This insurgent convention, thus
sanctioned by such authority, proceeded to deprive the regent of the authority
which she had received from the Estates. This deprivation was declared by
sound of trumpet at the market-cross of Edinburgh, and also at the common
cross of every burgh ; and they now sent back the lion herald with this
suspension, and a demand for the evacuation of Leith (t). The insurgents
were so ridiculous as to demand the evacuation of Leith, in the name of their
sovereign lord and lady, and of the council then at Edinbui-gh ; but as it
was not surrendered to such a summons, the insurgents resolved to take it by
force. The town council of Edinburgh supplied them with two thousand
marks for this enterprize {u). Some skirmishes ensued ; but when they
attempted to take the town by escalade they failed (x). Disorder and
distrust among the insurgents now ensued. Several leaders went over to the
regent. Their designs were at length disclosed. The duke hesitated. Their
hired soldiers being, for the most part, as Knox informs us, " men without
God or honesty," mutinied for want of pay. They attem|)ted to raise a
fund by voluntary contribution ; but when they carried their silver to the
mint they found that the officers had deserted. In this extremity of want, their
chiefs applied to Queen Elizabeth's officers at Berwick, Sadler and Crofts,
who delivered 4,000 crowns to Cockburn of Ormiston for their use. But he
was intercepted by James, Earl of Bothwell, the sheriff of Lothian, who
acted under the regent's orders. The leaders now turned their hostility against
Bothwell. They beset his castle of Crichton ; but hearing of their design
he retired with his prey ; and as the castle was not defended, it soon
surrendered [y).

On the same day, the provost of Dundee, with his townsmen and some
mutinous soldiers and cannon, marched from Edinburgh with the resolute
purpose of assaulting Leith ; but they were instantly repulsed. They hastily
fled towards Edinburgh ; they were even slaughtered in the Canongate ; and

(«) Knox, 195-6 ; Spottiswoode, 136, who gravely censures that opinion as unsound.

(«) Knox, 199 ; Spottiswoode, 137-8 ; and Keith, 105, has given a copy of the Act of Suspension,
from the Cotton Library, dated the 23rd of October 1559.

(u) Maitlaud, 19.

(.r) We are told by Knox. 200, that they could not succeed, as the scaling ladders had been con-
structed in St. Giles' Church.

()/) Knox, 201-3, informs us "his castle was spoiled, but in it there was nothing of any great
importance except his evidences and certain clothing."
4 4L

630 AnACCOUNT [Cli. V Edinburghshire.

the pursuei's retreated in their turn when they perceived by a shot from the
castle that the governor was not their ftiend (2).

From tliat disastrous day, the insurgent forces could scarcely be retained in
Edinburgh ; some of the leaders determined to abandon the enterprize ; many
stole away, and those who still remained were distracted in their councils and
irregular in their conduct (a).

In the midst of this despondency, on the 6th of November 1559, the regent's
troops early sallied from Leith, to intercept a convoy of provisions which was
coming to the insurgents. The Earl of Arran, and James Stewart the prior
of St. Andrews, led out the insurgent forces to meet them ; but so backward
were the soldiers that, according to Knox, " they could scarcely be driven
forth of the town." The two leaders showed more courage than conduct ;
so that their retreat would have been cut off had not Kirkcaldy with a body of
horse, by a furious charge, checked the advance of the regent's troops. The
insurgents were driven back into Edinburgh with some loss and great dis-
order (Jb). This second defeat, arising from the superiority of regular troops
over any militia, quite depressed the insurgent spirit. Several persons secretly
left Edinburgh on the same day ; some of the chief leaders declared that
they would not remain ; Arran and the prior said they would continue
if any reasonable number would remain with them ; and Lord Erskine, the
governor of the castle, refused to favour them, avowing his design to side with
the prevailing party. In despair, the insurgent reformers resolved to depart
from Edinburgh at midnight. On their retreat, says Knox, " the despiteful
tongues of the wicked railed upon us, calling us traitors and heretics ; every
one provoked others to throw stones at us (c)." This avowal of Knox
seems to prove that, whatever the magistrates may have been, the populace of
Edinburgh were not sincerely attached to the reformers. They marched to Stir-
ling, where they held a council, wherein it was resolved, by sending Secretary

{£) Lesley, 165-7; Knox, 202-3. Lord Erskine, the governor, is said by Knox "to have soon
repented of well-doing.'' Those events happened on the 31st of October 1559.

(a) There is a letter from Sir Ralph Sadler and Sir James Crofts at Berwick, to Secretary
Cecil, dated the 5th of November 1559, which says: "Touching your desire to know what
" Scots be with the queen dowager, and how many Frenchmen, as far as we can learn there be
" no Scots of any name with her in Leith, but the Lord Seton and Lord Borthwick with the
" inhabitants of the town. For the rest, as the Earl of Bothwell who is on her side and such
" others as seem to favour her party, do remain at home by her consent untill she require their aid.
" it is said that there be in Leith about 3,000 Scots, and Frenchmen in tvaye. Keith's App.
31.

(6) Knox, 204-5 ; Spottiswoode, 139. (c) lb., 205.

Sect. Yl.— Its Civil History.] OpNORTH-BRITAIX. C31

Lethington to London, to crave Elizabeth's aid. On the morrow, the regent
entered Edinburgh, and tried, without success, to obtain the castle from the
doubtful charge of Lord Erskine (d). The Roman Catholic services were now
restored in the Edinburgh chui'ches ; and the pope's legate, with the
pragmaticalness of his office, purged St. Giles' church by a reconsecration (e).
The Earl of Bothwell, perhaps as sheriff of Lothian, proclaimed the Earl of
Arran a traitor, recollecting probably, the late attack of this zealot on
Crichton castle. The regent sent for reinforcements to France. The insurgents
learned on the 20th of December 1559, that Elizabeth had agreed to afford
them effectual assistance ; and both parties prepared at the end of this busy
year to renew the civil war in the next with more vigour and inveteracy.

The regent, who probably knew Elizabeth's intentions, resolved to suppress
the insurgents in Fife before the English succours should arrive. Early ni
January 1560, she detached a body of men from Leith by Stirling to Fife ;
but before they could effect her purpose, the English fleet arrived in the frith
and took two ships, carrying provisions to the regent's army in Fifeshire.
The Scottish army immediately returned to Leith, and busied themselves in
strengthening the fortifications of this town and of the Isle of Inch-Keith.
Winter, the English admiral, no sooner cast anchor in Leith roads, than the
regent demanded the cause of his coming into the frith. He readily said that
he came in quest of pirates ; but he seems not to have discharged the two ships
that he had detained {/). The whole evince the unneighbourly insidiousness of
Elizabeth's government. The regent instructed the French ambassador to
require of Elizabeth the cause of Winter's conduct, and that no English
aid should be given to the Scottish insurgents. Her evasive answer, and subse-
quent practice, merely evince what is sufficiently known, that trick and
disingenuousness 'vere, in that age, the common artifices of Elizabeth's minis-
ters (g). She went some steps further. She reinforced her fleet in the Forth,
and she sent the Duke of Norfolk to make a treaty with the Duke of Chatel-
herault, the second person in Scotland, who was then in rebellion against his

(d) Knox, 213. (e) Lesley, 516 ; Spottiswoode, 139.

(f) Lesley, 521. From the representation of Strype, in his Annals of Elizabeth, he seems to have
seen Admiral Winter's instructions, -nhich empowered him to avow any purpose except the real one.
Keith, 1 1 0, App. 45. I have seen the draft of his instructions in the Paper Office, which corres-
pond with the account of Strype.

(;/) Lesley, 521 ; Keith, 116. The Scottish Government had not given her uuy cause of offence,
and therefore, her attack on the Scottish Government was indefensible on any known principle of law
existing between nations.

632 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Edinburghshire.

sovereign (h). Francis and Mary equally sent reinforcements to Lelth,
though not in sufficient numbers. The insurgents now summoned all their ad-
herents to co-operate with the English army, which entered Scotland ou the
2nd of April 1560. Two days afterward, the insurgents met their English
colleagues at Preston, in East-Lothian. At the same time, the regent, with her
attendants, retired from Leith into Edinburgh castle, under the protection of
Lord Erskine, the governor. Various applications were now made to the
regent, both by the chiefs of the insurgents and the English general, desiring
that the French troops might be sent to France. She evaded a request, the
gi'anting of which, she knew, would deliver her into the hands of the insur-
gents. Various skirmishes now ensued, which were only pi-eparatory to the
siege of Leith. During two months this town resisted every attack that could
be made upon it with great skill and bravery (i). Negotiations were mean-
time carried on, but they ended in no result, as no treaty, on such an
occasion, could be made with the regent queen, which would not have deli-
vered the existing government to the insurgents, and the sovereignty of the
kingdom to a foreign power. At length the regent died, within Edinburgh
castle, on the 10th of June 1560, of a dropsical complaint (k). She was, at the
end of some months, sent for burial in the Benedictine monastery of St. Peter,
at Rheims, of which Rene, her sister, w-as then abbess (/).

The associated Scots and English were disappointed by the length and
difficulty of the siege of Leith, owing to the skill and discipline of the besieged.
Elizabeth and Cecil became impatient from the uncertainty and expense of
the enterprize ; and the queen and her minister began to think of obtaining
by treaty, what appeared so difficult by force. She resolved, as early as the
middle of May 1560, to send Cecil and Wotton, two of her ablest negotiators,
into the north, to meet the bishop of Valence and Randan, the envoys of
Francis and Mary. The rumour of a treaty disquieted the chiefs of the insur-
rection. Alter some preliminary negotiations at Newcastle and Berwick, the

(A) Eyru., xv., 569 ; Keitli, 117-19, 120. The preamble of this treaty is a wretched recital of
falsehood and misrepresentation.

(t) The English generals gave it as their deliberate opinion, on the 28th of May 1560, of the
siege of Leith, " that batteri prevaileth not, but that the only way to winn it is either by
the sapp or famine.' Haynes, 347. Leith, however, was much battered, and it was set
on fire.

(k) Lesley, 525 ; Keith, 128. Knox insulted the deceased queen with the scunilous language
which seems to be peculiar to his natural savageness.

(/) Keith, 130.

Sect. VI.— 7/5 Civil History. '\ OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 633

envoys arrived at Edinburgh on the 17th of June. The English envoys found
their business full of difficulties, owing to the crooked points of the matter, the
dealing between a prince and his subjects, the ability of their opponents, though
the Scottish council could be easily managed (m). The only point of difficulty
between the English and Scottish sovereigns was the late treaty of Berwick
between Elizabeth and the insurgent lords («) ; and Cecil and Wotton
doubted whether they could obtain any clause in the treaty wherein the
Scottish nobles should be mentioned (o). Yet by great efforts of perseverance
and address, two treaties were agreed to ; the one for the demolition of the
fortifications of Leith, and the removal of the French troops, dated the 5 th of
July ; and the other, for the settlement of peace between England and France,
dated the 6th of July 1560, which did mention some concessions to the prayers
of the Scottish nobles {p). Those treaties proceeded avowedly on the regular
powers of Francis and Mary, dated the 2nd of May, and of Elizabeth, executed
on the 25th of May 1560 (g). On such powers was the peace of Scotland
restored, was Leith demolished, were the English and French troops sent
out of Scotland, and above all, were some stipulations obtained for the dis-
avowing of the use of the title and arms of England, by Francis and Mary.
Elizabeth was so weak as to expect that her envoys could obtain five hundred
thousand crowns, and the cession of Calais, as positive compensations for the
assumption of such title and arms, though the same Elizabeth continued to call
hei-self queen of France (r) ; and it required all the address of Cecil and
Wotton, who could not obtain a single line of treaty from Monluc and
Randan, without a violent struggle, to divei't their queen from such idle
expectations {s).

(m) Haynes, 327. (re) lb. 329. (o) lb., 330.

{})) The first treaty is printed in Eymer, xv., 591 ; the second, or principal treaty, is published by
Eymer, xv., 593.

{q) lb., 581. The full power of Francis and Mary, dated as above, at Chenonceau, merely takes
notice of "the rebellion of their subjects in Scotland, whicb had brought together troops upon the
frontiers." And it goes on to empower the specified envoys to treat with Elizabeth's envoys for the
re-establishment of peace ; but there is no power given to grant so much as a pardon to any one of the
said rebels, nor to notice in any way the Scottish insurgents, more than the recital of their rebellion, as
above. This was printed from the Autograph. Elizabeth's full power to Cecil and Wotton is printed
in Eymer, xv., 596, from the Autograph, but says not a word about the rebels of Scotland. Such
■were the powers !

(r) Haynes, 342.

(s) Haynes, throughout. This treaty is fully and fairly printed in Eymer, xv., 593. from the
Autograph ; yet is there a manifest defect in it, for it contains a clause, stating that, on the

634 A N A 0 C 0 U N T [Oh. \ .—Edinburghshire.

Secretary Cecil, however, afterward obtained a detail of those concessions,
with the power under which they ai'e said to have been made. We have just
seen that neither this power nor those concessions, which ought to have
formed a separate article of the treaty of Edinburgh, were deposited with it iu
the Public Archives. They were placed, by whatever hands, in the Cotton
Library ; and they have been thence copied, translated, and published by
Keith and other writers, without any suspicion of spuriousness, as criticism
and history are seldom allied. Cecil seems not to have brought a copy of
these concessions and that power from Scotland with him. A copy appears
to have been afterward sent him by the insurgent chiefs ; and this copy
still remains in the Cotton Libray, marked by Cecil's hand, certified to be a
true copy from the original, by James Stewart, the prior of St. Andrews, Lord
Ruthven, and William Maitland, the late secretary of the regent queen. But
the original, which was thus referred to, has been never seen by the most
curious eyes. The supposed original appears to have been signed only by the
French ambassadors ; but to have made a complete original, it ought to have
been countersigned by the French envoys ; and such an original ought to
have been annexed to the treaty of Edinburgh, as a separate ai'ticle of that
important pacification; and forming thus an essential part of the ti-eaty of
Edinburgh, the supposed origmal belonged more to England than to Scotland ;

prayer of the nobles and people of Scotland, certain concessions had been granted to them, at
the request of Elizabeth ; and there was an agreement between the contracting parties, that
Francis and Mary should fulfil those concessions ; the nobles and people of Scotland fulfilling
their agreements. We have seen above that the envoys of Francis and Mary had no power to
make such concessions. But, as they were made, the several negotiators of this treaty ought to
have signed and sealed them, as a separate article of this treaty, and ought, thus authenticated,
to have been filed, as an essential part thereof, in the archives of England ; for Elizabeth was a
party, and was, in fact, the guarantee of those concessions, and, of course, had a right of reclama-
tion, if Francis and Mary should depart from them. But without the record of the agreement,
authenticated by the envoys, Elizabeth had no evidence of her right of reclamation ; and Francis
and Mary might, without such authentication, have denied that they had ever made such con-
cessions. We now see the imperfection of the treaty of Edinburgh, as it was filed b}- Cecil, in
the archives of England. It will be found perhaps that to vindicate the envoy's head, it will
be necessary to impeach his heart. There is a copy of this treaty in Leonard's Recueil, 1693,
Tome ii., 567, without the full power ; but there is in this collection no copy of those supposed
concessions. In the Brit. Mus. Bibl. Harl., No. 1244, there is a very full, curious, and useful collec-
tion of treaties and other instruments between Scotland and France, from early till late times ;
yet does it not contain those supposed concessions, though it comprehends the treaty of Edin-
burgh of the Gth July, 1560. The silence of this collector and of Leonard gives rise to some
suspicion !

Sect. VI.— /<*■ Civil History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 635

and of course Cecil ought to have granted a certified copy to the Scottish chiefs
rather than the Scottish chiefs transmit a copy to Cecil. The whole transaction
then, if it were real, was quite informal ; and again, to save the celebrated
secretary of Elizabeth from the imputation of unskilfulness, he must be supposed
to have acted knavishly {t).

The copy of the Scottish concessions, which i-emains in the Cotton Library, is
entitled by the hand of Cecil, " The acord betwixt the French king and queen
of Scots, and the nobility of Scotland, 3d July 1560; " and consists of thepoiver
of the sovereigns of Scotland, with the concessions that were supposed to be
founded thereon by their envoys {u).

The first writer probably, who questioned the genuineness of those con-
cessions and that full power, was Whitaker {x). They certainly appear in a
very questionable shape, as we have already seen {y). The powers under
which the treaty of Edinburgh was made were produced and verified in due
form ; and by the authority of those a clause was inserted in that treaty in
favour of the insurgents, at the request of Elizabeth (z). After all, did Francis

{t) Elizabeth, on the 2nd of September 1560, ratified the treaty of Edinburgh and evenj thing con-
tained in it. Eym., xv., 602. From these last expressions we may perceive that there was not anj'
separate article annexed, and that Elizabeth did not recognise the Scottish part of that treaty what-
ever it was, and of course relinquished her right of reclamation.

(») Calig., b. is., 129 ; Keith, 137. That copy is, probably, in the hand of Lethington, the
indorsements are in the hand of Cecil, and the signatures of James Stewart, Lord Euthven, and
William Maitland, are genuine. Such, then, is the fact as it appeared when the document in the
Cotton Library was inspected by antiquarian eyes, for the useful pui-pose of ascertaining the real
truth. It is clear, from a dispatch by Cecil and Wotton, dated the 5th of July 1560, that
the accord between the French and Scots was not then settled. Haynes, 349. The date then of the
3rd of July, as above, was wrong. It contained another anachronism of great importance as to the
queen's reign.

(x) Vindication of Mary Queen of Scots, iii., 41, App. No. xiv.

[y) The envoys of Francis and Mary would surely cany a copy of their concessions to Paris,
and the power under which they acted must have remained in the chancery of France ; and yet the
collectors of French Diplomas seem not to have found them where they ought to have been seen.
Castelnau talks, indeed, of what was given out by agreement ; what was rumoured at Paris. Mem.,
Eng. Edit., 74.

(f) When the French envoys, who were nominated, in the power of Francis and Mary came
to London they said to Elizabeth " that they were sent to her, and not unto the subjects of
Scotland, for it was not meet that the king should send to his own subjects (as they were by
the marriage of their queen) to require peace or to condition with them for agreement.'' Holin-
shed, 374 ; Camden concurs in this fact. " The king and queen of France thought it too
mean a condescension for princes,'' says he, " to debate things on a level with their subjects, and

636 A N A C C 0 U N T Cb. \ .—Edinburghshire.

and Mary grant a full jaower to the same envoys, dated on the 2d of June 1560,
a month later to treat with the Scottish insurgents ? The insurgents them-
selves say they did, however improbable in itself, and inconsistent with the
acknowledged authority of the '2d of May. The power of the 2d of June was
not necessary to the end, as every thing could be done under the jjower of the
2d of May, which could be performed luider that of the 2d of June. To send
such a document from France after the envoys to Scotland was not a reasonable
act. Being unreasonable and therefore absurd, it is not to be believed that
such a full power was ever granted by Francis and Mary, or received by their
envoys; and, there thus appears to be abundant reason to believe that the sup-
posed full power of the 2d of June 1560 had never any existence, except in the
obvious fabrication of the insurgent chiefs (o).

Murray made such proposals as, in Cecil's opinion, were neither fit for princes to grant nor subjects
to ask." Camden, in Kennet, 282. This was copied by Camden from Cecil's letter of the 21st of
June. Caligula as above. And in the full power of Francis and Mary to treat with Elizabeth, the
insurgents of Scotland are expressly called rebels.

(a) There is a translated copy of that paper in Keith, l-lo, from the Cotton Library. It
appears to be chiefly a repetition of the real full power of the previous 2nd of May, empowering
the envoys of Francis and Mary to treat only with the envoys of Elizabeth for the restoration
of tranquility ; and in addition to the real full power goes on thus : " And in like manner
"to give assurance to our subjects of the kingdom of Scotland that notwithstanding they have of
" late committed so grevious a crime as to forget their duty towards us, if nevertheless they shall
'■ repent and return to the obedience which they owe to us, we are willing to receive them into
" favour, because we are desirous of nothing more than to see them living under obedience to
" us, and in peace, union, and tranquility, together." And then follows a clause of deputation,
for which the whole paper seems to have been fabricated : " And generally to do in the premises
" the circumstances and dependencies thereof all and sundry things which we ourselves would or
" could do if we were personally present, even although something should fall out which might
" appear to require a more special instruction than is contained in these presents.'' This last
clause was merelj' copied from the power of the 2nd of May preceding. Eym., xv., 581. But in
diplomacy such general expressions must be limited by the previous j^remises, otherwise an envoy
might carry out his authority without bounds ; and in this supposed commission the premises
were the restoring nf tranquility to Scotland, and the means were, of course, universal pardon and
particular favour. The very conception of this second power, dated the 2nd of June, seems to
have arisen in the minds of Murray, [James Stewart], Lethington, and Cecil, after the 21st of
June 1.560, the date of Cecil's very remarkable letter to Elizabeth from Edinburgh, suggesting the
impossibility of obtaining certain points for the insurgents. This letter is in the Cotton Library.
Calig., b. 10, and Keith, App., 49. This power appears to have been now hastily fabricated,
for there is a gross anachronism in the date of the commission, being the 16th 3'ear of Marj-'s reign
instead of the 18th. Keith, 144. The whole matter might be thus put to Cecil. The English
envoys negotiated the whole treaty of Edinburgh as they were empowered ; in this case the whole

Sect. VI.— Its Civil Ilistori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 637

When the heart and hand of forgery is busy, in any age, it is not easy to
ascertain falsehood from truth. We may see in Haynes the successive intima-
tions of Cecil, while his artful mind was busily employed at Edinburgh in
carrying on a double negotiation with whatever view of gratifying his passion
for intrigue or benefiting his fastidious mistress without her knowledge.
Owing to the artifices of this able minister it thus becomes very diflScult to
distinguish what was the true result of the treaty of Edinburgh with regard to
Scotland. From Castelnau we may learn, indeed, what were given out hi/
agreement as its stipulations for putting an end to the war of Scotland (b).
The writers of the same age, as they all differ in their notices, are not much
more instructive than Castelnau. What was given by the insurgent chiefs
to Cecil, and by him, after a while, or by his direction, was deposited in the
Cotton Library, and has long been published (c). And whether what has
thus been obtruded on the world as genuine, and has been reprobated as
spurious, needs not be elaborately investigated, as the envoys had no power
to negotiate with the insurgents, as they had no power to make such a treaty
by agreeing to such concessions, and as Francis and Mary never ratified a
treaty which subverted the constitution of the State, which transferred their

stipulations ought to tave been executed by tlie signatures and seals of the envoys of the con-
tracting powers, and thus ought to have been deposited in the Archives of England. Or, as the
fact seems to be, that the envoys of Francis and Mary negotiated a distinct treaty with the
insurgent chiefs ; but in this case there was no power given to hold such a treaty, as the
fabricated power required the treaty to be with the envoys of Elizabeth ; and these intimations
lead to the conclusion that Cecil basely colleagued with the insurgent chiefs to impose a fabrication
and falsehood upon England and Scotland, and upon the sovereigns of both ; upon Elizabeth as
well as upon Mary. The memory of Cecil is chargeable also with an additional offence of aggravated
baseness. By filling the Archives of England with forgeries he has contaminated the fountain-head
of history.

(b) Castelnau, p. 91, of the English edition. This intelligent memoir- wilier, though he had not
the treaty before him, perceived clearly " from the event, that France had lost and the English had
got Scotland by the war."

(c) See those concessions in Keith's Hist. 137, and there would be little doubt about their general
tenor, if Murray, Euthven and Lethington, who at the same time certified the truth of the annexed
full power, which is a palpable forgery, could be believed. They set out in the preamble with a false-
hood, and the articles of this treaty are so extraordinary in themselves, that we might presume the
envoys of Francis and Mary, who are praised by Cecil for their acuteness and energy, did not under-
stand the extent of their sovereign's powers, nor the meaning of their own stipulations. I have seen
in the Paper Office, P. 20, T. No. 20, a memorial in Cecil's hand, dated at Newcastle, on the 10th
June 1.560, of "things to be demanded by the Scots onlij." Here, then, is the conception of Cecil,
what ought to have been asked by the Scots ; and what was granted was so different, that we are thus
furnished with an additional proof of the forgery.

4 4M

638 A N A C C 0 U N T [Cb. \ .—Edinburghshire.

undoubted sovereignty to their insurgent subjects, and which laid the inde-
pendency of Scothxnd, which had cost so many struggles, at the feet of
Elizabeth {d).

With regard to this treaty, which had so little authority for its basis, the
opinions of men were various. When we hear so judicious a writer as Camden
saying that it established the liberty, and such an author as Burnet that it
removed the tyranny of Scotland, we are left to lament that history so often
sacrifices sense to sound. This truth will appear by a slight examination of
the first article of the Edinburgh treaty. It proceeds upon the complaint of the
insurgents of the number of soldiers which had been kept up in times of peace,
and it goes on to stipulate that neither French nor any foreign troops shall
thereafter be introduced by the king and queen without the advice of the
Estates. This article was beneficial to England but not to Scotland, which
might be over-run before such advice could be obtained ; it gave superiority to
insurgency over law, and by limiting the legal authority of the sovereign the
just power of the State was enfeebled. The raari-iage of Francis and Mary
identified them as one person. In confirmation of that union the Estates of
Scotland, only two years befoi'e, had identified the two kingdoms of Mary and
Francis ; and under the authority of the Estates, Francis and Mary had a
better right to send troops from Paris to Edinburgh, than Elizabeth's title to
send troops from London to Dublin. The necessary result, then, of this
clause of the treaty of Edinburgh was to repeal what the Estates had enacted
and to weaken the existing system of law, to exalt insurrection over authority,
and to leave the whole people enthralled by triumphant faction, to subdue the
mind to intolerance, and to elevate fanaticism over reason. We now perceive,
in the practice of Camden and Burnet, how history can write without meaning,
and even venture to substitute mis-statement for truth. It were equally easy
to show that this whole ti'eaty was a continued sacrifice of the constitution of
the State to the innovations of insurgency, and a surrender of legal rights to
the usurpations of the most daring violences.

The treaty of Edinburgh, which thus gave temporary quiet to Scotland, was
proclaimed on the 5th of July 15G0 (e). On the 15th of the same month
Leith was dismantled, on the morrow the troops embarked, and on the

(d) Haynes, 354-57.

(e) Haynes, 353. The Lord James Stewart and Letliington, seem to have been the appropriate
negotiators on the part of the insurgent chiefs under the management of Cecil. lb. 333. Two com-
missioners from Edinburgh town appear to have been appointed, but they were not much attended
to.

Sect. YL— Its Civil History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 639

subsequent day, the Englisli envoys departed for their own country (/). By the
assumed authority of the reformed jDreachers, a thanksgiving was held on the
19th of July, in St. Giles's church, the ancient kirk of Edinburgh, for such a
treaty as left them free to domineer over every mind throughout an enthralled
kingdom. Under an authority equally assumed by some of the nobles, barons,
and burghs, a sort of ecclesiastical establishment was made, which gave to
Lothian John Spottiswoode for its superintendent, and to Edinburgh, John
Knox for its minister (g).

By the demise of the regent queen, and by the treaty of Edinburgh, Scotland
was left, in July 1560, without any legitimate government ; and the Lord
James Stewart, Lethington, and other insurgent chiefs, naturally continued
the authority which they possessed from assumption, under Cecil's influence as
the council.

As early as the 28th of the pi'eceding month of May, the insurgents had
resolved to call a parliament after they had dis23laced the regent queen (/«•).
They now fixed the day of meeting on the lOth of July, when every one,
having any right to sit, was summoned to attend. A very numerous conven-
tion actually met at Edinburgh on the 1st of August 15G0. As there was no
representative of the king and queen present, the accustomed formalities of
carrying the crown, sceptre, and sword, the emblems of authority were dis-
pensed with {i). As the object was to collect a numerous, rather than a legal
assembly, there seems to have been no verification of the title of any one to sit
in such a convention. Eight days were, however, spent in active debate
about the legality of the parliament ; many insisting that no parliament could
convene without the presence of the sovereign, either personally or by repre-
sentation. But others alleged what seemed to be the prevailing sentiment,
that the treaty of Edinburgh allowed a parliament to sit without the authority

(/) There is a curious paragraph, in the dispatch of Cecil and Wotton, of the 6th of July, from
the camp before Leith : " We mean, this afternoon, to proclaim it, after a little ceremony done, to
" understand the contentation of the town ; as though the peace were not concluded, for respect of
" their two commissioners, lest the counsellors of the town should, upon bravery (not mete for their
" estate), allege that they had no need of this peace, as, if they should perceive the peace con-
" eluded without them, they would do." lb., 353. On the 22nd of July 15G6, the insurgent
council issued a command to the magistrates of Edinburgh, to demolish the south part of the town
of Leith. Maitland, 19.

(g) Keith, 145. (A) Pitscottie, 38G, has recorded that important fact.

(i) Spottiswoode, 149.

640 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. \ .— Edinburghshire.

of the king and queen (A). This treaty, which was made, as we have seen,
without authority, was now acted upon without 7-atiJication. The persons
convened at length proceeded to legislate, as if their sitting had been sanctioned
by the practice of a thousand years. They set aside the whole church establish-
ment, which had been confirmed by so many laws. They settled a confession
of faith, which anathematized every one who pi'esumed to entertain a difterent
faith, thereby introducing the same persecution in principle and in practice
under which so many reformers had been sent to the stake. The convention,
after legalizing their sitting by a reference to a stipulation of the Edinburgh
treaty, thus proceeded to reprobate the old, and to settle a new church establish-
ment, though the same treaty had expressly stipulated that nothing should
be done under it, in matters of religion, till they were represented to the king
and queen, and by them approved (l). It is unnecessary to follow such legisla-
tors much further in their proceedings, which were as illegal in their principle
as they were absurd in their detail (m). They sent Sir James Sandilands, with
their acts, to France, in order to obtain the confirmation of the king and
queen, and by him they transmitted a list of counsellors for the government
of Scotland, such as the Edinburgh treaty had required, for the royal assent (n).
But both the treaty and the proceedings, which were transacted under its
shadow, were received by the king and queen with disdain, rather than
approbation ; as they were aware of the imposition that had been practised,
both in the making of the treaty and in the proceeding of the pretended
parliament.

From that epoch Scotland became a dependency of England in fact,
though not in law ; and the leading men of that convention, Murray and
Morton, Lethington and Lindsay, and other reformed nobles, became the in-
famous instruments of the corrupt ministers and violent measures of Elizabeth.

But domestic quiet was not restored to Edinburgh, where rigour, more than
moderation, bore sway. Puritanism was the dictator of its legislation (o). The

(/.) Spottiswoode, 149 : That motion, says lie, was carried by voices. The treaty required that the
parliament should be called, according to ctistom ; but this was not called, according to custom, by the
king's writ, nor legalized by the king's authority.

(/) Keith, 142-3.

{m) Keith, 151-2, has recorded from a copy in the Scots College at Paris, "the heads of the acts
made in the pretended parliament in August 1560.''

(n) Id.

(o) On the 12th of June 1560 the council of Edinburgh ordered all idolaters (papists),
whoremongers, and harlots to be banished the town ; on pain of exposure, at the Cross ; of cart-

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil Historij.l OfNORTH-BEITAIN. G41

market days were changed from Sunday, on which the markets were wont to
be kept, to Saturdays and Mondays ; and women were prohibited, in future,
from keeping taverns. Such laws, though iTiade by assumption rather than
authority, were rigorously enforced. Sanderson, the deacon of the butchers
was carted through the town for adultery ( [>). A tumult ensued. The trades-
men rose, broke the cart, and set the deacon at large. The magistrates now
applied to the ruling jjovvers for support. The craftsmen were at length com-
mitted to the castle ; and the magistrates were, in the end, obliged to ajoply
for their discharge, declaring them innocent of the riot {q). Such will
always be the insui'gent state of a community, which is governed by dictation,
contrary to the principles of the people. In the midst of that anarchy, an
event occurred, which was followed by important consequences. Francis II. of
France, died on the 5th of December 1560 (r), leaving Maiy Stewart, his
widowed queen.

The first assembly of the. reformed kirk, consisting of ministers and laymen,
under the name of elders, met at Edinburgh, on the 20th of December 1560 (s).
This assembly, which was convened without any authority, at once assumed
all power, legislative and executive {t) ; and the magistrates of Edinburgh
appear, by their actions, to have then acted as willing instruments of their
unauthorized assumption (ii).

As soon as the demise of Francis was known in Scotland, the Insurgent
chiefs called a meeting of their partizans at Edinburgh, on the 15th of
January 1560-1 ; and the members of this convention appointed James Stewart,
the prior of St. Andrews, to repair to his sister, the queen, to request her

ing through the streets, of burning in the check, and of death. Maitland, 19, from the Council
Register. Such was the odious legislation of Edinburgh, refonned, as it was, into fanaticism and
folly I

(p) Knox acknowledges that Sanderson had been divorced according to the papistical form. Hist.,
289. What anarchy of thought, and of action I His divorce was legal.

(g) Maitland, 20.

(?■) Historians have differed as to the real date of that event ; but the accurate author of the
Antiquite's Nationales, i. 70, places the date on the 5th of December 1560, and the sepulchral pillar,
with the urn, which contains the mild heart of Francis II., facing p. C5.

(«) Keith, 498.

(t) The meeting of that assembly was directly contrary to one of the articles of the Edinburgh
treaty ; but laws, as well as treaties, were regarded only as they promoted the selfish purposes of the
ruling faction.

(m) Maitland, 20-1.

642 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ .—EdinburhBshire.

immediate return to her native kingdom. A book of church disciphne, which
Knox had formed, was presented to this convention, but it was refused by
the majority ; yet did he prevail, by his usual vehemence, to obtain subscrip-
tions to his compilation in the Tolbooth of Edinburgh (rr). This convention,
as if its right had been confirmed by the usage of a thousand years, now
directed that the Estates should assemble at Edinburgh, on the 20th of May,
then next [y).

Meantime the magistrates of Edinburgh commanded the papists, both j^eople
and priests, to attend the protestant chui-ch. The papists complied ; but being
suspected, from their facility, of endeavouring to seduce the disciples of the
reformed ministers, the magistrates, who now exercised the tyranny of Pro-
crustes, ordered all papists, fornicators, and adulterers, to quit the city {z).
They enforced this command by a more rigorous order (a) ; being willing to
show their subservience to the minister's prejudice, more than to the people's
feelings.

In the beginning of May, saith Knox, " the rascal multitude were stirred up
to make a Robin Hood, which enormity was long left off, and condemned by
parliament (6)." We may easily suppose that a legislative prohibition of such
popular sports was not rigorously executed. But as sports and enormities were now
deemed the same, the magistrates of Edinburgh tried to enforce the rigours of
Knox. When the people proceeded with their May games, the town bailies
seized their swords and ensigns. A mutiny bi'oke out on the same night. The
jjeople took possession of the city gates ; and being a little pacified by the restora-
tion of their sportive ensigns, they proceeded with their May games. But the
magistrates were not to be so easily pacified ; having arrested on the 1 1th of May,
one Balon, a shoemaker, they condemned him to death for his participation
in such tumults ; erected a gibbet under the cross with design to execute him.
A more outi-ageous tumult now ensued. The prisoner was set free, the gibbet
was destroyed, and the magistrates were besieged in the town-house ; the
craftsmen refusing to relieve them, they w^ere constrained to capitulate by
giving obligations not to prosecute any one for being implicated in such
tumults, and quiet was restored. But the absurdity of the magistrates was
now assumed by the folly of the cler'gy. The preachers excommunicated the

(x) Knox, 276 ; Spottiswoode, 152-174 ; Keith, 491-6. (y) Keith, 157.

{z) Maitland, 20, from the town council register of the 24tli of March 1560-1.
(a) lb., 21.

(i) In June 1555, an Act passed, forbidding the choice of Robert Hude, or Little John, or Abbot of
Unreason, or Queen of May. Black Acts, fo. 168.

Sect. YL— Its Civil History.^ OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 648

whole multitude till they should submit to the magistrates (c) ; and we may
thus perceive the domination of anarchy in the absence of government.

As the intended meeting of a convention at Edinburgh was now at hand,
all parties prepared to attend with adequate force in the absence of legal
protection. The magistrates of Edinburgh, with the pretence of keeping the
peace, on the 21st of May 1561, directed the raising of sixty hackbutters ;
they commanded the citizens to be prepared with arms in case of a tumult ;
and they employed the duke's horse guard at the rate of five shillings Scots
a day (d). In this state of perturbation, the second assembly of the reformed
kirk, convened at Edinburgh on the 26th of May. The members seem to
have entertained no notion of the illegality of their meeting, or of the unreason-
ableness of their conduct. They resolved to supplicate the secret council of
the insurgent chiefs, for various measures, that were intended to eradicate the
old religion and to support the new (e). The first measure which they
proposed for that end to the secret council, was the suppression of idolatDj
throughout the realm {f). In pursuance of this application, the secret council
passed an act for demolishing all the abbeys and churches of the monks and
friars ; and for suppressing all other monuments of idolatry. The execution of
this violent and illegal act was committed to the Earls of Arran, Argyle and
Glencairn, in the west ; and to the Lord James Stewart, the prior of St. An-
drews and other zealots, in the middle and northern districts {(j). It seems
not easy to trace the proceedings of the convention of May 1561 ; and the

(c) Knox, 289-91 : He accuses the crafts of fomenting those tumults, giving as a reason
that several of the deacons had applied to him, for his interposition with the magistrates, in
favour of Belon, as otherwise a tumult would ensue ; but Knox was not of a temper to yield to such
considerations. Maitland relates, confusedly, the above tumults on the 11th of April. Hist.
Edin., 21.

(cZ) Maitland, 21, from the town council register. Knox boasts, in his history, 291, that
" the brethren assembled in such companes, that the bishops, with their bands, forsook the
street."

(e) Keith, 501.

(/) Keith, 501 : The idolaters were the papists ; and they were to be punished, for their worship,
as idolatrous ; though their religious practice was legal, while the proceedings of their persecutors
were against law.

{g) Keith, 503; Spottiswoode, 174-5 : Archbishop Spottiswoode was thus induced to cry out ; what
devastation of churches and church buildings ; every ornament was defaced or plundered ; the
materials of the churches were sold and appropriated ; the sepulchres of the dead were violated ; and
the books and registers of every kind were committed to the flames : He goes on to charge Knox and
the reformed preachers with inciting by their sermons the zealous nobles to execute that unchristian
act with persevering violence. Id.

644 AnACCOUNT [Ch. '^.—Edinburghshire.

kirk assembly and the secret council are alone entitled to the glory or the
shame of those unhallowed measures.

All this time, the queen was daily expected in her native kingdom, according
to the desire of her people, and to the dictates of her own interest. At Leith
she arrived, on the 19th of August 1561, at nine o'clock in the morning, with
a great retinue of kinsmen and nobles {h). She was joyfully received. The
nobles crowded to the shore to offer their gratulations on her safe arrival from
the violence of the sea, and the vigilance of EHzabeth's fleet (i). The crafts-
men of Edinburgh, headed by their deacons, met her with honest acclaims
on her way from Leith to Hol3'roodhouse, where she arrived in the evening of
the same joyous day. Musicians gave their salutations at her chamber win-
dow. Tliis melody she liked well, and willed that it might be continued
some nights after (^•). Good humour and sincere joy continued till the
Sunday after her arrival, when rejoicing was changed to tumult. WhUe pre-
parations were making for the queen's prayers in her private chapel, a crowd
who were brought together by whatever means, threatened violence to those
who were to ofiiciate. The son of Lord Lindsay, with other inhabitants of
Fife, entered the court of the palace of Holyrood ; crying out, " that the
idolatrous priests should die the death according to God's law." The Lord
James Stewart, the most influential man in Scotland, who was mtended for the
queen's minister, undertook to keep the chapel door, on pretence of preventing
any Scottishmen from witnessing the mass. Yet, this disguise did not prevent
Knox from seeing that the object was to protect the queen's worship, and the
safety of her priests ; and this sentiment seems to have been communicated to
the multitude, who the same evening surrounded the palace ; avowing their
purpose not to suffer the queen's religion, even in her private chapel. Now,
all this time, the religion of the sovereign was the religion of the state, while
the religion of Knox and his disciples was hitherto unwarranted by any

(/() The contrariety among tlie Scottish historians as to the day of her arrival is settled by the
Privy Seal Eecord, as quoted in Keith's Preface. And Brantome who was present says that she
arrived on Tuesday morning, which was the 19th of August.

(i) " Happy were he, or she, saith Knos, who could first have presence of the queen ; the Pro-
testants were not the slowest." This violent ecclesiastic, we may remember, reprobated the regiment
of ivomen as unlawful. In deference to Elizabeth, however, he acknowledged that she might be
lawfully obeyed, as she was specially chosen by God as his instrument. He treated Mary on most
occasions as coming within the limit of his reprobation.

{k) Knos, 306 ; Keith, 180.

Sect. Yl.— Its Civil Histovij.'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 645

law (/). On the morrow, tlie privy council issued a proclamation statino- the
queen's intention to assemble the Estates, to deliberate on religious differences,
and requiring her subjects to preserve tranquility without offending others of
whatever i-eligion or country (?n). On the following Sunday, Knox, by a violent
sermon, endeavoured to inflame the people against idolatry, saying, " that one
mass was more fearful to him than if ten thousand enemies were landed for
suppressing his religion." The protestant leaders became ashamed, as well
they might, of the preachers who inculcated such intolerance, w^io incited the
people to attack the palace, wherein the queen performed her devotions, and
who inveighed against her protestant counsellors for their insidious modera-
tion (n). Even Eandolj^h, the corrupt envoy of Elizabeth at Edinburgh, who
did not sufficiently advert that Knox was an instrument of Cecil, complained
to this statesman of the ignorance, obstinacy, and turbulence of Knox (o).

(/) In saying that Knox's religion was unwarranted, I disregard altogether the proceedings of the
convention of loGO, which was illegal in its meeting and conclusion, and was yet unconfirmed by any
constitutional authority.

(m) Keith, 504-5 ; Knox, 307-8, admits, that the above proclamation "was framed, by such as
before professed Christ Jesus j for in the council then had papists neither power nor voice." In words
of less cant, the fact is, that the leaders of the Protestants framed and issued that proclamation.
There was a proclamation of Elizabeth, dated the 17th of December 1558, " to forbid preachintr,
and allowing only the reading of the Epistles and Gospels in English in churches. .
until consultation might be had by parliament, by her majesty, and her three Estates." Strype's
An. i. App. No. iii. The measure of Scotland seems to have been adopted from the measure of
England. When the Scottish proclamation was made at the Cross of Edinburgh by the Lion
Herald, the Earl of Arran protested against it ; avowing that the proclamation should not protect
any of the Queen's domestics from the punishment due to idolaters. Knox, 308-9 ; Keith, 505
If the Earl of Arran had done this, at Paul's Cross, against Elizabeth's proclamation, his head
would have been in danger. Against this frantic noble no steps were tal;en for his outrageous
conduct. Knox, 309.

(n) Knox, 309.

(o) Honest Strype has dedicated ch. ix. of his Annals, vol. i., to the investigation of Knox's
principles from his practices : " The Eeformation," saith Strype, "was now carrying on (1559) in the
" neighbouring kingdom of Scotland, as well as here ; and. Ma}' 2nd, John Knox, the Scotsman, being
"fifty-four years of age, arrived at Edinburgh from France. From whence, anno 1557, he had
" earnestly wrote to the Scottish nobility, who had taken upon them the public reformation ; telling
" them, that he had the judgment of the most godly and learned in Europe (meaning, no doubt, the
" ministers of Geneva, where he sojoui'ned), to ivarrant his and their consciences for their present
"enterprise. The position maintained by them was this, that if kings refuse to reform religion, the
" infei-ior magistrates and people, being directed and instructed in the truth before by their preachers,
" might lawfully reform, within their own bounds, themselves ; and if all, or the far gi-eater part, be
4 4N

646 AnACCOUNT [Cb. Y .—Edinburghshire.

In the meantime, great ]3repai-atioiis were made by the magistrates for the
queen's public entry into Edinburgh, and they resolved at the same time
to entertain her relations, the French princes, on Sunday, the 31st of August
1561 (p). Splendid dresses were prepared, and the public streets were orna-
mented (q). At length she made her entry ; she dined in the castle, and, as
she left it, a boy came from a cloud, as if from heaven, who delivered her a
Ijible, a psalter, and the keys of the castle gates, and presented her with some
verses, and " with terrible significations of the vengeance of God upon idolaters."
They intended to have had a priest burnt at the altar, if the Earl of Huntly,
who that day bore the sword, had not stayed that pageant (r). One might
infer from the fact, that Knox had reformed the magistrates of Edinburgh out
of their common sense. They invited their queen to a public entertainment,
and they ofiered her a deliberate insult.

The queen seems to have arranged her govei-nment at Holyroodhouse on
the 6th of September 1561, as she then appointed her privy council, and placed
Lord James Stewart, her bastard brother, at the head of her administration (s).
She had been courted, before her departure fi'om France, by the two parties
which then divided Scotland— the Protestant and the Papist, — and she had
privately determined to put her affairs into Protestant hands, knowing that she
could not have ruled, by means of the Roman Catholics, without an insurrec-
tion, with Elizabeth for its patron. The Lord James Stewart had returned to
Scotland with assurances of being her minister, and we see him attempting to
protect her palace from insult during her private devotions, on the first Sun-
day after her arrival (t). Under this minister, the chief of the insurgents were

" enlightened, tliey iniglit make a public reformation." St:ype goes on to an investigation of Knox's
publication to show his jninciples, wbicb we know to be what are now called Jacobinical, being hostile
to everything established by law.

(p) Keith, 189. {q) Maitland, 21.

(r) So Randolph wrote to Cecil on the 7th of September 1561. Knox says, 31G, that '■ on the day
'• appointed the queen was received in the castle ; whereat preparations were made for her entry into
"the town, in farces, in masking, and other prodigalities. Fain would our fools have counterfeited
"France." («) Keith, 187.

(<) The Lord James, as he was born in 1530, the putative son of James V., was now in his two-
and-tbirtieth year; and was of course twelve years older than the queen, who was born in 1542. In
1552 he received .-sums of money from the English Government, as the wages of treason. [Privy
Council Register of the 4th of July and the 9th of December, 1552.] We have seen him acting,
under Secretary Cecil, at the treaty of Edinburgh. " We find a great commodity, saith Cecil to
Petre, on the 23rd of June 1560, in the Lord James and the Lord Ledyngton, who be well content
to follotv our opinions in any thing. Surely the Lord James is a gentleman of great worthiness.'

Sect. Yl.—Tts Civil Historij.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. (547

now apjiointed the officers of State under Mai'y, while they were more depen-
dant on the English queen than attached to their native sovereign. And Knox,
the dictator of the kirk, was also the insti'ument of Cecil the English secretary (u).
We thus see the Scottish queen, who was sincerely attached to the religion of
Rome, obliged to place her affairs in the corrupt hands of a Protestant faction,
who were without morals or moderation or attachment to her, in preference to
her rival (x).

The queen, a few days after she had thus settled her government, set out
from Edinburg^h to visit her principal towns. On the 2nd of October 15(il,
the magistrates of Edinburgh thought tit to renew their proclamation, com-
manding all monks, friars, priests, nuns, adulterers, fornicators, and other
such filthy persons to remove from this town, under the pains of carting, of
burning on the cheek, and banishment {y). The queen now commanded the
magistrates to meet in their town-house, to remove the provost and bailies
from their offices, and to choose other qualified persons in their room. The
magistrates receiving this command by a mace-bearer, in writing, the council
and deacons assembled on the 8th of October, and in obedience to the queen's
command, dismissed their provost and bailies and chose other officers who
were more worthy of trust (s). A j^i'otest was, however, entered on their
record that this depi'ivation and election should not prejudice the city's
rights.

Haynes, 333. When the Lord James went to France, after the demise of Francis II., he acted full
as much for Elizabeth as for Mary, and on Lis return, he is supposed to have given suggestions to
Elizabeth which brought into hazard Marj''s person. That the Lord James was a miscreant, we may
learn from his management at the treaty of Edinburgh, when he went the full length of forgery to
gain his nefarious purpose.

{u) Haynes, 372 ; and the Privy Council Eegister of the 2nd of February 1552-3.

{x) The state papers of England are crowded with the secret correspondeucu between the Scottish
statesmen and Elizabeth's ministers.

()/) Keith, 192, from the Town Council Eegister. The queen, hearing of this insult on her
person and her government, wrote to the town council complaining of this measure, which was
equally without her knowledge, and against her command. It appears, from the Town Eegister,
that the queen had formerly written to the magistrates on this subject, and had forbidden what was
so offensive to her. Maitland, 202 ; Arnot, 25-6, who gives a very inaccurate account of this essential
affair.

(^) The deacons of the crafts had been now admitted as constituent members of the town
council. They seem to have first voted on the 26th of August preceding, after a long struggle for
a participation in the city counsels. After the election, a ticket from Secretary Lethington was
produced; offering some different persons to their approbation. Keith, 192-3, who has given, from
the Town Eegister, the minutes of this whole transaction, in order to confute Bnchanan and Knox's

648 A X A C C 0 U N T [Ch. V.— Edinburghshire.

The privileges of the town and the powers of the Government were not m
that age probably well defined. The town-house having become ruinous, was
by the queen and her council ordered in February 1561-2, to be taken
down, and apartments for the Lords of Session to be provided. A new edifice
was accordingly erected at the west end of St. Giles' Cliui'ch, and was called
the Jii(/h council house (a). But the requisite accommodation not being provided
in time enough, the Lords of Session intimated to the town council their purpose
of removing the court to the city of St. Andrews if a convenient house were not
soon made ready for their present use. This remonstrance seems to have had
the wished effect ; and the Court of Session sat in the meantime in the Haly-
blood aisle of St. Giles' Church [h).

The zeal against what was called idolatry was now as extreme as was the
zeal against popery. The town coimcil ordained in June 1562, the figure of
St. Giles in the banner of the city to be cut out and a thistle to be inserted
in its stead. The constituted authorities went a step fui'ther which, probably,
was attended with greater consequences ; they ordained that no one should be
eligible to any office in the city but such as were of the reformed faith (c).
In the meantime the city, with all its reforms, was not quiet. On the 27th of
June 1562, an affi'ay happened in the street between Lord Ogilvie and Sir John
Gordon, a son of the Earl of Huntly, on a private quarrel about family rights,
which was foIlo\\'ed by consequences though it was of little importance in
itself. As Lord Ogilvie was sore wounded, Goi'don was committed to prison.
The magistrates applied to the queen, who signified that nothing should pro-
tect the guilty from justice. This matter of police was adopted by the queen's
ministers as an affair of State, with design to implicate Huntly in a breach of
the peace and even in a conspiracy against the queen. Sir John Gordon, at
the end of a month, made his escape from prison (c^). The Lord James, the
queen's minister, had now obtained from his sister a grant of the Earldom of
Murray which of right belonged to Huntly, and this hasty quarrel of the
guilty son was converted by studious artifice into matter of crimination against
the innocent father, in order to cover the minister's design of effectuating his

misrepresentations. Knox misreported that the queen committed the magistrates to the castle, and
issued a counter proclamation, allowing all criminals to resort to Edinburgh. Buchanan only insists,
with equal falsehood, that the queen committed the magistrates to Edinburgh castle ; but to rectify
the falsehoods of Buchanan, and to explain the misreports of Knox, is a task of which there is no end,
and of little use.

(a) Maitland, 21. (6) Id.

Sect. \L—lts Civil Hislori/.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B E I T A I N . 649

corrupt purpose. The queen was induced by her brother to travel with her
court into the rugged north during the autumn of 1562, in order to promote
her minister's measures. The Lord James was, by those means, put into pos-
session of the Earldom of Murray ; and Huntly was pushed into rebellion, which
ended in the loss of his life and the ruin of his family (a). Such were the fatal
consequences, which were thus drawn, by consummate villainy, from a personal
encounter on Edinburgh streets, owing to private considerations !

The queen returned from her northern tour to Edinburgh in November
1562. The pi-eachers, saith Knox, inveighed vehemently against the vices of
the court, the immoderate dancing, and the vast whoredom that thereof en-
sued. The reformed leaders, Murray and Morton, Lethington and Macgill,
who now guided the queen's affairs, were highly offended, he adds, with the
vehemence of the preachers, which was stigmatized by them as calumnious
railing (6) ; and he acknowledges " that this vehemency of the preachers pro-
voked not only the hatred of the protestant courtiers, but also of others (c)."
The protestant ijreachers and the lirotestant courtiers now stood opposed to each
other. It reflects great disgrace on Murray's administration, that he had raised
a spirit which he could not allay ; wanting either inclination or address to turn
the vehemence of the preachers to topics more congenial with the gospel and
more consistent with society {d).

The parliament at length assembled at Edinburgh on the 26th of May,
1563 (e). The queen came to the Estates, dressed in her robes and wearing her
crown. The emblems of royalty were carried by the Duke of Chatelherault, the
Earl of Argyle and the Earl of Murray. The queen made them a speech, which
Knox, in his usual spirit of calumnious railing, calls a 2^(^intccl oration : and

(a) The E;irl of Huntly was slain at the battle of Corrachie ; his son. Sir John Gordon, was taken
prisoner, tried for treason, and executed at Aberdeen.

(6) Knox. Hist. 348.

(c) lb. 348-9. Eandolph, in his dispatch to Cecil of the IGth of December 15G2, in the Paper
OflBce, gives a similar account of Knox and his vehemency. Eandolph, in his letter to Cecil of
28th of February 1562-3, tells him: "Our preachers pray daylie that God will keep us from
" bondage of strangers ; and for the queen, as much in effect, as that God will either turn her heart
" or send her a short life. Of what charity, he adds, this proceedeth, I leave to be discussed unto the
" great divines."

{d) The same ministers, who, according to Eandolph, wanted charity, were guilty of the impurities
which they railed at in others. Eandolph's dispatch of the 22nd of January 1562-3, and Knox, 350.
Paul Methven, one of those preachers, was convicted of adultery by the General Assembly of December
1562. lb. 349-51 ; Keith, 522.

(e) Pari. Eec. 772-77.

€50 A N A C C 0 U N T [Cli. Y .—Edinburghshire.

she was present as supreme justiciary at tlie condemnation of the dead Earl of
Huntly, and the Hving Earl of Sutherland, for their late rebellion against
Murray's fraudulence {/). But the great measure of the parliament of 1563
was the act of oblivion, which was to cover the lords of the late congregation,
who were the chiefs of the present government, with the mantle of law (g) ;
and which expunged a thousand treasons that had been committed by the insur-
gent chiefs, from the 6th of March 1558 to the 1st of September 1561, when
the queen settled a legal government with those chiefs for her ministers (h).
But, in return for oblivion, the queen's ministers did not offer to parliament
any law for protecting her person and opinions from the daily outi'age of
audacious preachers, who thought themselves above legal restraint. Among
some laws of domestic economy, there were several acts passed for giving pro-
tection to glebes and manses, for punishing witchcrafts and adultery, and for
upholding parish kirks. But, as the parliament did not persecute, the preachers
became outrageous. Knox gave vent to his vehemence against the queen and
parliament, against the queen's ministers, his late companions in reform, and
against the most respectable persons, because they would not act as out-
rageously as his own practice (i).

Scotland, owing to her own folly, now felt all the misery which arises when
the law is unknown or uncertain. In May 1563, the archbishop of St. An-
drews and the prior of Whithorn were tried before the justiciary court at
Edinburgh, wherein sat the Earl of Argyle as justice-general, for saying mass
at Easter. It appears not that any lawyer was brought into court to show
that this practice was lawful under the ancient system, which had never been
repealed ; and the archbishop and prior were imprisoned in Edinburgh

(/) Lady Huntly was not discouraged, by the misfciiunes of her family, from entering a protest
against the trial of her deceased husband, and desired the aid of a man of law. Knox, 357. The
forfeitures, on that occasion, of the Earls of Huntly and Sutherland, and seven gentlemen of the name
of Gordon, were reversed in the parliament of April 1567. Pari. Eec. 772-84.

(jr) Black Acts of that Session, ch. i.

(h) The pretended parliament of August 1560, passed an act of oblivion, in pursuance of the
supposititious treaty of Edinburgh ; but as the queen refused her confirmation, both of the act and
the treaty, those lords felt their conduct to be undefended by any law. They now introduced another
act of oblivion, founded on that reprobated treaty ; but the queen had the firmness to refuse her
assent to such an act, so founded on a treaty that she would not recognize : " Wherefore, it was
" advised, saith Spottiswoode, that the lords in the parliament should, upon their knees, entreat the
'' passing of such an act, which was accordingly done ; but without any respect to the said treaty."
Hist. 188.

(i) Knox Hist. 357-8-9.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil Historij.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 651

castle (i). The justice-general either did not know the law, or sacrificed his
duty to his prejudices. One Carvet, a priest, in the subsequent year, was
prosecuted before the magistrates of Edinbui'gh, for saying mass contrary to
a supposed act of parliament {k) ; and for this pretended offence he was twice
set upon the pillory. The queen, considering this illegal conduct as an insult
to her religion, and an assumption of her power, summoned a great force to
Edinburgh to punish the guilty magistrates {I) ; but though Spens, the
queen's advocate, was sent to make remonstrances ; he appears not to have
explained to them that they acted against law, and without authority (in).
Knox and his disciples proceeded one step furtlier, in the assumption of all
power, in their function of preachers. By a circular letter, in October 1563,
they summoned the queen's subjects to give their attendance at Edinburgh, in
support of their brethren, who were prosecuted for an act of treason, by
invading the queen's palace. The queen's ministers endeavoured to convince
Knox that he acted unlawfully in convoking the queen's subjects, though the
doing of this belonged alone to the queen's authority. But he could easily
quote perverted Scripture to warrant his assumption ; to justify the violence of
overawing a court of justice by armed multitudes, and to empower the
pi'eachers to execute supposed law upon a whole people for fancied crimes.
The assembly of the kirk, which merely acted on assumed authority, justified
Knox in convoking the people against law, and in punishing any one without

(i) Knox, 355 ; Keith, 521 ; Spottiswoode, 187.

{k) The supposed act on which Carvet was prosecuted, was No. 3 of the acts made in the pre-
tended parliament of August 1560. Keith, 151. The saj'ing of mass was then made punishable,
for the first offence, by the loss of goods ; for the second, by an aibitrary punishment at the will of
the magistrate ; and for the third, by the loss of life ; but the proceedings of this convention had
never been recognized as legal, and they had been passed over by the parliament of 15G3, when an
act of oblivion was passed without the least notice. Nor were the acts of that unwarrantable conven-
tion ever admitted into the Statute Book. Yet under such disputable authority were the greatest
persons in the state, as well as the least, now punished in a manner which left no rights in the subject,
and no power in the sovereign. This is the very definition of tyranny in tlie odious form of reformed
anarchy.

(Z) Maitland, 25.

(rn) Spens was a reformed lawyer, and of course could not see, with prejudiced eyes, anything unlaw-
ful in punishing the subject against law. With Knox, he probably thought that a text of misconceived
Scripture, though applicable to a different people, and to a dissimilar occasion, was quite sufficient to
overrule the most ancient establishments. Again, we have here tyranny in the despicable shape of
perverted Scripture !

652 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. \.— Edinburghshire.

warrant (/;) ; and in this assumption of Knox, which was avowed by the
church judicatories, we again see tyranny stalking through the land in the
horrible guise of reformed practices. Knox, as he had now baffled the queen's
ministers, seemed to be the dictator of the people ; and it is easy to perceive
how much the whole power of the state was assumed, under such principles
and practices, by conventions and persons, which were unrecognized by law.
Edinburgh, with Knox for its minister, at length became the princijial seat of
reformed illegality, and of reformed violence ; and here sat the parliament as
its appropriate place ; and here met the assembly of the kirk, which arrogated
still greater power (o).

The time was now come when the marriage of the Queen of Scots with
Lord Darnley was to give a different current to affairs, as they related to the
kingdom and its metropolis (j:»). Murray, as the instrument of Elizabeth
more than the minister of Mary ; and the Duke of Chatelherault, the heir-
apparent of the crown, and the slave of his own folhes, opposed the queen's
marriage with Darnley, which was approved by the nobles and the people.
The assembly of the kirk, from a desire of intermeddling, and the town of
Edinburgh, from an ambition of factiousness, opposed the spousals of their
sovereign (q) ; yet was Darnley proclaimed king at the market-cross of
Edinburgh, on the 28th of July 1565 ; and, on the morrow, was he married
to the queen within the chapel of Holyroodhouse, at five o'clock in the
morning (r).

(n) The convocation of the king's lieges had been specially prohibited, by act of parliament, James
n., Pari. 14, No. 78 ; and indeed by other laws. Balfour's Pract., 533-4.

(o) Knox, 477-96.

(p) As early as the 7th of March 1560-1, it was foreseen by Elizabeth and Cecil, that the marriage
of such a queen was an affair that might be so managed as to mortify Mary and gratify Elizabeth ; so
Randolph, the corrupt envoy to Scotland, was instructed to make the people of Scotland understand
how inconvenient it would be if their queen should again marry with a stranger. Haynes, 367. And
the ministers of Mary, from the epoch of her return, were gained by Elizabeth, as we know from the
same State Papers. We may easily perceive what a source of perplexity would be found in such
a measure. In Febi-uary 1565, Darnley arrived from England, and immediately waited on the queen
at Wemyss Castle, in Fife. In the first week of July 1565, the queen, -while at Perth, hearing of a
plot by Murray and Argyle to seize her and Darnley, hastened to Callender. In the meantime, the
town of Edinburgh, incited by Knox and Murray, broke out into insurrection against the queen's
marriage. The insurgents armed themselves, and disarmed others ; and St. Leonard's Craig was the
guilty scene of this insurrection. Spottiswoode, 199 ; Knox, 410; Randolph's letter to Cecil of the
4th July 1565.

(q) Holinshed, 381. (r) Id.; Binel's Diary, 5.

Sect. YL— Its Civil Historij.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 653

This cei'eraony was the signal for the rebelUon of Murray, Chatelherault,
Argyle, and of others, with the towns of St. Andrews, Dundee, and Perth,
which acted under Murray's influence. Tlie king and queen thereupon
assembled their power (s). The insurgents coming to Edinburgh were
repulsed by the fire of the castle, and they now retreated upon Dumfries in
order to be near the confines of Elizabeth's kingdom, which they knew would
protect them from pursuit (t) ; yet were they coldly received according to
Elizabeth's usual artifice. Chatelherault and others were pardoned and
banished to France (t«), Murray and his adherents remained in England, openly
discountenanced, but secretly protected.

A Parliament was now called to meet at Edinburgh in March 1566, and to
it were summoned Murray and his adherents to answer accusations of treason
for obvious rebellion. To prevent the meeting of the Estates, which was to
forfeit Murray for his treason and also to punish him for the baseness of his
motive and the scandal of his ingratitude, was the great object of his many
partizans ; at the head of all these were Morton, the chancellor, and Mait-
land, the secretary. By various intrigues which all operated on the weakness,
the jealousy, the folly of Darnley, they induced this puerile prince to put
himself at the head of Murray's faction, who were to commit a deliberate
assassination on Rizzio, the queen's private secretary, for distracting her
court (x). The Estates accordingly assembled in Edinburgh on the 7th of
March 1566, when the queen met them in form, and the lords of the com-
mittee of articles were about to pass the act of forfeiture against Murray and
his partizans, when the concerted murder was executed with every aggra-
vating circumstance (?/). On Saturday, the 9tb of March 1565-6, in the
evening the king, Morton, the chancellor, Maitland, the secretary, the Lords
Ruthven and Lindsay, entered the queen's supper apartment in Holyrood-

(s) Maitland's Edin., 26 : The Town Council of Edinburgh voted two hundred men to be raised,
which levy was commuted for money. The queen, wanting supplies, to oppose that rebellion, bor-
rowed of Edinburgh 10,000 marks Scots, for which the superiority of Leith was received, as a
security. lb., 27. The peace of the town, and the care of the queen's palace, were committed to the
Town Council, while unprovoked insurgency was thus busy.

(<) Holinshed, 381-2. («) Id.

(x) Holinshed, 382 ; Camden, in Kennet, ii. 404.

(y) The indictment of Henry Yair, for being one of Eizzio's assassins, charges the fact to have
been committed, on the 9th of March, under silence of night, at eight o'clock, '•' it being the time of
parliament current.'' Arnot's Crim. Trials, 380. This fact supports Holinshed. See Keith, 331, for
the proceedings of parliament.

4 4 0

654 A N A C C 0 U NT [Ch. V Edinburghshire.

house, and in lier presence gave RLzzio a thousand mortal stabs {z). The
queen remained a prisoner in the hands of the assassins (a). On the morrow
tlie Estates were discharged from their attendance by Darnley's direction (6) ;
and, in the meantime, Murray and his treasonous adherents returned from
the insidious border to Edinburgh, where they offered themselves to trial after
the court had been dismissed (c). The queen soon after induced the deluded
Darnley to retire with her from this guilty scene to Dunbar. Here she
immediately found herself strong enough to return to Edinburgh, whence she
expelled the late assassins and where she pardoned the former traitors ;
Morton and his associates in villany now found the same protection from
Elizabeth's insidiousness that Murray and his partizans had recently relin-
quished (c^). This odious transaction proves, with full conviction, to what
baseness the Protestant chiefs could stoop for obtaining their unwarrantable
ends. Darnley disavowed, by proclamation at the cross of Edinburgh, any
connection with those chiefs in the murder of Rizzio, whereby he incurred the
derision of the populace and the detestation of the conspirators.

After a short sojourn in the Bishop of Dunkeld's house at Edinburgh, the
queen retired into the castle to wait the time of her delivery ; and on the
19th of June 156G, was she accordingly delivered of her son, James, who was
doomed to be the instrument of party in soon depriving his mother of her
crown (e). The nobles gave thanks to God in St. Giles' Church for the
birth of such a son, and the townsmen displayed their joy by their illumina-
tions (/). The queen remained in Edinburgh Castle till the subsequent July,

{z) Holinshed, 382 ; Birrel's Diary, 5.

(a) During eight-and-forty hours, saith Tair's indictment, guarded by the citizens of
Edinburgh.

(i) Keith, App., 126. (c) HoUnshed, 383.

(d) Yair's indictment states that there were five hundred persons who were assisting in the seizure
of the queen's palace when that murder was committed. There were only four persons tried for that
aggi-avated crime, and two of them burgesses of Edinburgh. Arnot's Crim. Trials, 377. Yet, were
there four persons of the community of Edinburgh who assisted the conspirators in that terrible crime.
Keith, 352. The queen applied to the provost in vain for help during her utmost need. Melvil's
Mem., 8", 130. There were only two mean persons, Yair and Scot, executed for Eizzio's murder.
Keith, 334. The noble assassins, by the influence of Elizabeth and the power of their faction, were all
paidoned by the injured queen.

(e) Holinshed, 383 ; BiiTel, 5.

(/) Holinshed, 383. The queen, not long after, conferred on the town, which she wished to please
and to govern, the whole estates that had belonged to the Black and Grey friars of Edinburgh.
Maitland's Edin., 29.

Sect. Yl.— Its Civil History.^ OfNOETH-BEITAIN. G55

when she went along the Forth to Alloa-house, for the benefit of an- and the
advantage of amusement.

The queen, meanwhile, tried to reconcile the nobles to each other, and
Darnlej to himself. But among chiefs who were as turbulent as they were
corrupt, amity could not long continue. The faction of Murray had set
Darnley against the queen, when he headed the conspiracy that ended in the
murder of Rizzio (g). The same faction endeavoured to incite the queen against
Darnley, by laying before her an insidious proposal for divorcing her from her
vmworthy husband. This transaction occurred while the queen lay at Craig-
millar, in December 1566, before the bai^tism of her son. The queen refused
her assent to tliat proposal, but from this transaction the same faction, artful
and unscrupulous as it was, conceived a plot against the life of Darnley, who had
given the chiefs mortal offence ; and they now incited Bothwell's ambition to
look up to the marriage of the queen, when her hated spouse should be removed
by Bothwell's guilty means (h). Every event was now converted b}!- the same
faction as a means for effecting that odious end. At Christmas 1566, the court
then being at Stirling, the assassins of Eizzio were pardoned, and Morton their
chief immediately returned from England to his usual pursuits of interest
and ambition. At that epoch Darnley went to visit his father at Glasgow,
where he had taken ill with the small-pox ; and the queen, after making,
meantime, some excursions of amusement, returned with her son to Edinburgh.
She soon after followed her physician to Glasgow to visit her husband, whom
she brought to Edinburgh on the 31st of January 1566-7 (^) ; and ten days
after, Darnley, then lying in a convalescent state in the retired house of
Kirhifield, was murdered by Bothwell and his associates ; the same faction,
who consisted of privy councillors, and ought to have revealed this plot, assent-
ing. Their odious objects were now obtained, The husband of Mary was thus
taken off without her knowledge, and against her interest ; Murray was
revenged by his fall and her injury ; and Bothwell, whom the same faction
hated, was thus involved in terrible guilt. Amidst such disgraceful scenes
were Edinburgh and Scotland equally contaminated, by the crimes of its
ignominious chiefs.

(§') Camden, in Kennet, ii., 404.

(/i) lb., 403-4. Ormiston, who was executed for tlie murder of Darnley, confessed that Bothwell, in
order to induce him to give his assistance, assured him "that the whole lords who were with the
queen at Craigmillar had concluded the same [had agreed upon the matter] ; and none durst find fault
with it when it shall be done." Arnot's Crim. Trials, 384.

(i) Birrel's Diary, 6.

656 AnACCOUNT [Ch.V. —Edinburghshire.

Yet, Bothwell, who was soon suspected, as his guilt ^Yas whispered by those
who knew the secret, was still to be acquitted by his country (k). The same
faction who had pushed him on his crime, now contrived to acquit him b}^ a
collusive trial before Argyle, the justice general, at Edinburgh (/). He was
arraigned and acquitted, under Morton's management, saith Camden (m). But
in this collusion the unhappy queen had no concern, as she had a very different
interest ; and the whole offices of government were in the hands of that gviilty
faction («).

The parliament which assembled at Edinburgh on the 14th of April 1567,
rose on the 19th of the same month. The transactions of the Estates during
their six days sitting are very memorable, though they appear not in the statute
book (o). The act concerning religion would alone have conferred celebrity
on any legislature (p). It recites that the queen since her arrival from France,
had attempted nothing conti-ary to the state of i-eligion which she found pub-
licly and universally standing, that is, in fact, existing ; and being willing to
continue this forbearance for the happiness of her people, the queen, with the

(it) The great concern of the conspirators now was, saith Camden, to get Bothwell cleared of the
guilt of the king's murder, as their whole object was not accomplished till Bothwell had defiled, dis-
honoured, and married the queen. Kennet, ii., 404. We now perceive what a strong interest the
queen had in the life of her husband, as she could not have been thus dishonoured, and married,
while Darnley lived.

(I) The Earl of Argyle, who with Murray had attempted to seize Mary Stewart and Darnley, and
with him afterward went into rebellion, for which they were both pardoned.

(»i) Id. The mode of constituting the court and the whole circumstances clearly evince collusion.
The Earl of Eothes, who was a leading person of the jury, was an associate of Murray in his late
rebellion, and a partaker of his various crimes. The whole jury was of a similar complexion. The mode
of conducting this trial, which was held on the 12th of April 1567, was altogether collusive, and by
the faction which acquitted him, Bothwell was a while reserved as an useful instrument of future
mischief.

(ii) Elizabeth seems to have written Mary, requesting longer time for the trial of Bothwell, but this,
too, was collusive, if she made such an application, as she must have known the real pui-pose of
Murray's faction, who conducted the whole business. Anderson's Col., i., Ix.; Tytler, ii., 96.

(o) The very Statute Book of Scotland was vitiated by the same faction. The Black Acts of
November 1566 were castrated by that faction. The acts of the parliament of April 1567 were, by
the artifices of the same faction, completely left unprinted in the Statute Book, and owing to the
influences of the same faction, the proceedings of that parliament have been egregiously misrepresented
even during our own times. Some of the proceedings of the parliament of April 1567 remain, how-
ever, in the Parliamentary Record, mutilated as it is. The presence remains, comprehending the
provost of Edinbm-gh and the names of the lords of the committee of articles, a circumstance which is
important.

{p) lb., 752.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 657

advice of the three Estates repealed all former acts, which imposed any penalty
on the religion thus existing within her realm ; and with the advice of the
three Estates, the queen declared herself the head and protector of the church,
in opposition to all foreign authoritij, power, and jurisdiction, whether ecclesiastical
or temporal (5). In this manner, then, do the Roman Catholic Mary Stewart
and the parliament of April 1567, enjoy the unrivalled honour of being the
earliest legislators within the British islands, who passed an act of toleration
upon the purest principles of indulgence to conscience and regard to freedom (r).
When compared with this act of toleration, other proceedings of that parliament
appear to be uninteresting, though private rights were legally secured.

On the morrow after the rising of parliament, being Sunday the 20th of
April, another transaction occurred at Edinburgh, which has stained the metro-
polis and the kingdom with ignominy. The leading characters of the state, with
Argyle the justiciary, and Morton the chancellor, at their head, entei'ed into a
bond of association to defend Bothwell from future challenge for Darnley's
murder, and to recommend Bothwell as the fittest husband for Mary Stewart (s).

{q) Pari. Eec. 752 ; Keith, 379, declared this act to be full and explicit for the settlement of the
new religion, and Eobertson, 1. 352, concurred with Keith ; but the late Lord Hailes wrote a whole
chapter [ix] of his Eemarks to controvert both, and to declare his persuasion that Buchanan had
given a just representation of what was then done for religion by the queen and parliament,
when he said, with his usual falsehood, that the queen had refused to let any law be passed in favour
of religion. Lord Hailes runs out into the most egregious misrepresentation when he is in quest of
his accustomed sneers to vilify Mary Stewart. The two historians, Keith and Eobertson, were not
quite right, but Lord Hailes was quite wrong. The truth is, the reformed religion had stood opposed
to the laws of the land from its commencement in 1558, to April 1567. The act above mentioned
first legalized the reformed rehgion, and by repealing the penalties of opposing statutes, it gave
security to the reformers. By withdi-awing the whole Scottish church from any foreign jurisdiction,
the pope's authority was renounced. But toleration was no part of the creed of the reformers, and
they were dissatisfied with the act of April 1567, as it did not establish them in predominance that
they might persecute, and as it established the queen's supremacy. Lord Hailes was so absurd as
to suppose the act of the insurgent convention of 15G0 to be an act of Parliament, and to say that
the act of the three Estates in April 1567, was an ordinance issued by the queen. Eemarks on the Hist.
Scot. 164.

(»■) The list of the lords of the committee of articles who were chosen by the parliament of April
1567, is happily preserved in the Eecord, and it shows, incidentally, who were the persons that had
the merit of drawing that early act of wise toleration. On the committee of articles among others,
were the Archbishop of St. Andrews, four bishops, four abbots, six earls, the chiefs of the reformers,
two barons, the provosts of Edinburgh and of other burghs, with the officers of State. Anderson's
Col. i. 114; Pari. Eec. 750.

(s) Anderson's Col. i. 107-12. In the same Collection 111, there is a paper which contains the
queen's assent to that bond, the night before her marriage, on the 14th of May ; but it is plainly a
forgery, for the purpose of crimination.

658 AnACCOUNT [Cb. Y .—Edinburghshire.

This was obviously an additional step, in the progress of the plot, which was
designed to ruin Bothwell and dethrone the queen {t). Thus strengthened
by a subdolous association, the ambition of that odious noble was carried up to
" audacious wickedness ; " and on the 24th of April, he seized the queen on
her return, from visiting her son at Stirling, carried her forcibly to Dunbar
castle, and there enjoyed her person against her will {u). He now obtained a
divorce from his wife, and she from him, by a double process. The queen
could not now but marry him, saith Melvil, seeing he had ravished hei-, and
on the loth of May 1567, this ill-omened marriage was solemnized in Holy-
roodhouse, by Adam Bothwell, the abbot of Holyrood and bishop of Orkney {x).
Craig, one of the reformed ministers of Edinburgh, had obtained celebrity by
refusing to publish in his church the banns of marriage between tlie queen
and Bothwell. Little did he know that he only endeavoured to prevent the
consummation of a marriage, which had been projected by the most unscrupu-
lous faction of the state, for the queen's disgrace and the ruin of Bothwell.

A few days of feverish disquiet disclosed the most hidden purposes of that
subtle faction. As early as the 1st of June 1567, the same fiction who had
entered into a bond to support Bothwell, and to recommend him to the queen
as the fittest husband, began to levy forces against both, and their own bond.
Such a gross contradiction of motives only evinces the insidiousness of their
conduct. The zeal, which was now avowed and propagated for bringing to
justice Bothwell as the murderer of Darnley, by the very statesman who pro-
cured his acquittal when before the justiciary court, and who had associated to
defend him, is a moral demonstration of their profligate purposes. The assasina-
tion of Darnley, the nominal king, detestable as it was undoubtedly, was not
so heinous a crime as the murder of Rizzio by the ministers of state, in
the palace, in the queen's closet, in the presence of the pregnant queen, with
the obvious design of destroying her issue and herself by abortion ; and yet,

(<) The signature of sucli a bond by Argyle and Morton, is alone sufficient evidence of the
insidiousness of that vile transaction, without taking into the account the subsequent conduct of both,
in pursuing Bothwell for the murder, after he had accompUshed the traitorous purpose of ruining the
queen.

(m) Birrel's Diary, 8-9 ; Melvil's Memoirs, fol. ed. 80.

(.r) Birrel says, p. 9, that they were married in the chapel royal of HoljTOod. Melvil, 80. states on
the contrary, that the marriage was made in the palace of Holyrood, after sermon, by Adam Bothwell,
the bishop of Orkney, in the great hall where the council used to sit, according to the order of the re-
formed religion, and not in the chapel at the mass as was the king's marriage. They were both con-
temporary with the event, and ought to have known the fact.

Sect. VI.— //i' Civil Historij.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 659

the chief murderers of Rizzio were pardoned with general concurrence, by the
queen, whose life was aimed at ; and the same murderers associated in arms,
to pursue the assassins of Darnley, whom they had themselves determined to
desti'oy, because they hated the prince, who had publicly discovered them,
after the murder of Rizzio. The same murderers pushed on Bothwell to commit
the assassination of Darnley, and after they had procured his acquittal by a
public trial, and when they had associated by a joint bond to protect him, they
equally associate, by another writing, to obtain his death ; he having eflfected
their whole design by Darnley's death and by the queen's marriage. The un-
happy queen was now taken in the toils which had been laid for her, by the ter-
giversation of so many statesmen, and the commission of so many crimes, and
from which she could not escape, being degraded by an actual I'ape, and en-
tangled by the matrimonial tie.

The queen and Bothwell, getting intelligence of an intention to seize them,
on the 6th of June 1567, fled from Holyrood House to Borthwick Castle, as
they distrusted Balfour the doubtful keeper of Edinburgh Castle. They were
pursued by eight hundred horsemen, and they soon departed from Borth-
wick Castle to the safer reti'eat of Dunbar. On the 1 1th of June tbe associated
insurgents amounting to three thousand men came to Edinburgh, which they
easily entered, though the gates had been shut against them by unsteady hands.
On the same day, when they had only entei'ed the Canongate, they issued a
proclamation commanding all persons, particularly the citizens of Edinburgh,
to assist them in relieving the queen and preserving the prince (y/). The

{y) Anderson's Col., i., 128 : On the ruorrow the insurgents published another proclamation, at the
Gross of Edinburgh, commanding all persons to be ready to pass with them " to deliver the queen,
and take revenge on Bothwell, for ravishing and detaining her majesty.'' Keith, 399 ; Birrel, 9. The
people did not readily join. Knox, 445. We thus perceive that the insurgent faction artfully kept up
their practice of duplicity. They avow their purposes to relieve the queen, and to take revenge on
Bothwell; but the moment that she separated herself from Bothwell on Carberry Hill, they seized her
as a prey, and allowed him to make his escape. The Town Council was also chargeable with the same
duplicity. They paid a musician, who played through the town at the incoming of the associated
lords on the 10th of June. Keith, 399. The magistrates at the same time sent to Mary three of
their number to excuse the town for allowing the insurgent lords to enter it. Id. The Town Council
are said to have supplied the insurgents with 200 harquebusiers. lb., 400. Edinburgh Castle
appears, during unscrupulous times, to have been placed in doubtful hands. Lord Erskine was
appointed governor by the dowager queen, and, during the civil war under her regency, professed to
act with the strongest party. On the 19th of March 1567, Queen Mary gave him an honourable
discharge, which was ratified by the parliament of April 1567. Pari. Eec, 751. On the 21st of
March 1566-7 the castle was rendered to Cockburn of Skirling, at the queen's command, saith Birrel.

060 AnACCOUNT f Cb. \.— Edinburghshire.

queen endeavoured to raise her people in support of her authoi-ity, but the
principle which the insurgents avowed as the cause of their rising in arms of
rescuing the queen and punishing Bothwell enfeebled her efforts. On the
14th of June she came forward from Dunbar Castle to Carberry hill to meet
the insurgents in conflict, but observing the unsteadiness of her array, in the
evening she joined the insurgent chiefs, and she was conducted through
the streets of Edinburgh to the house of Sir Simon Preston, the provost, amid
popular insults [z). The craftsmen on the morrow, feeling for her fallen state,
threatened to rescue her, but they were pacified by the associated nobles,
who assured them that it was their real object to restore her to her palace and
her power (a) ; and on the same day, under an order of those insidious chiefs,
she was removed from Holyrood House to the fortalice of Loch Leven as a
prisoner for life. The queen complained of this treachery, and Kirkcaldy,
the gallant ofiicer to whom she had surrendered on certain terms, remonstrated
against the injury done to him by thus departing from the agreement wliich
had been made with him ; 3'et they easily pacified this soldier by pretending
that the queen had written to Bothwell since her surrender by agreement, and
that their lands and lives could not be safe while she continued free (h) ; and
while the associated chiefs were thus inventing pretences which they did not
feel, they forgot that one of the avowed objects of their insurrection was the
rescuing of the queen from the domination of Bothwell ; but of the base
artifices of such unprincipled nobles there was no end. They, however, caused
Edinburgh to be searched for persons who were suspected of Darnley's murder,
when they found Sebastian, a Frenchman, and Blackadder, a Scotsman (c).
They now proceeded to seize the queen's valuables within Holyrood House,
and they ordered her plate to be coined for supporting their rebellion. The
Eai'l of Glencairn, one of the most ferocious of the reformed nobles, demolished

Diary, 7. Soon after Mary's marriage witli Botliwell in May 1567, Sir James Balfour was appointed
to the government of the castle. Goodal's Life, iii. Sir James, as he was soon gained by the adverse
party, was unworthy of any trust at the epoch of the insurrection, in June 1567. Melvil's Mem.,
81-90. And he continued in this important trust till the accession of the Regent Murray, who
appointed Kirkcaldy of Grange. Id.

{z) Bivrel's Diary, 10 ; Keith, 401 ; Melvil's Mem., 162.

(n) Keith, 402-3 ; Pennycuik's Hist, of the Blue Blanket, 58.

(J) Melvil's Mem., 163 ; Keith, 403.

(c) On the 24th of June, 1567, saith Birrel, Captain William Blackadder was drawn from the
Tolbooth to the Cross of Edinburgh, and there was hanged and quartered for being on the king's
murder. Diary, 10. The chiefs of the insurgents again forgot that they were themselves the
principal contrivers of the death of Darnley.

Sect. Yl.— Its Civil Histomj.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. (5GI

the chapel within the palace of Holyrood, with its furniture and ornanaents.
But his associates were not much pleased with this voluntary act of sacrilegious
savageness, as he had not acted by their authority, and with their participa-
tion [d). The chiefs of the insurgents now took upon themselves to act as the
council of state, and with their accustomed inconsistency, arising from their
treasonous motives, they governed the kingdom in the name of their imprisoned
sovereign.

But a rival power at length came upon this seditious stage. The assembly
of the kirk, which had often met since the year 1560 without any warrant of
law, convened at Edinburgh on the 25th of June 1567. On the morrow the
assembly resolved to call a convention of clergy and nobles, to meet at
Edinburgh on the 20th of July then next, for carrying forward such things as
should on that occasion be proposed (e) ; and the assembly, as if the mem-
bers meant to sanction crime and hallow insurrection, ordered a public fast in
the town of Edinburgh alone, upon the two Sundays falling on the 13th and 20th
of July, as appropriate preparations for an illegal convention ( f). This convoca-
tion which accordingly met at Edinburgh, was artfully designed to draw away
the nobles, who had associated at Hamilton. But it failed of the intended effect
as its artifices were discovered. Argyle and others sent excuses, and desired
that no farther innovations might be attempted [g). But such a convention
was not to be obstructed in its predetermined measures. Wliatever the preachers
desired was granted. It legalized the parliament of August 1560, which cer-
tainly wanted legalization, giving the acts concerning religion, which were
then made the force of acts of the three Estates ; and this convention stipu-
lated that the parliament of 1560 should be ratified in the first meeting of the
Estates which might be held (A). It was reserved for this convention of clergy
and nobles to suppose, in their reasoning, that illegality could authorize unlaw-
fulness, and insurrection legalize mob.

In the meantime, the Earls of Morton and Athol convened the magistrates of
Edinburgh, before whom they laid the insui'gent association of the 16th of June.
The magistrates adopted this unwarrantable document, and ordered Preston,

(d) Keith, 407 ; Spottiswoode, 208,

(e) Keith, 573, and in Knox, 448, may be seen the poUti:al reasons for that convention in
July 1567.

(/) Keith, .576. {g) lb., 577. (A) Keith, 577-84.

4 4 P.

662 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

the Provost, to sign it, as their act for recordation on their council books («).
The same document was ordered to be entered on the register of the privy
council. After thus adopting the false pretexts and base practices of the
insurgents, the magistrates made every preparation for the vigorous defence of
their town (6). They went, in their zeal, one step fui'ther. They entered on
the 23rd of July into a league with Sir James Balfour, the captain of Edinburgh
Castle, for mutual support, fearing danger from the divisions of the nobles,
and still pointing their preparations against the queen's friends, in favour of
Morton's faction (o).

But those contradictions of being at once for and against the queen, of using
her name against her authority, of pretending to release her whilst they im-
prisoned her, were soon discontinued. Morton's faction, after so many base
artifices, resolved to avow their hostile designs {d). On the 24th of July 1567,
the secret council, as the insurgent chiefs called tliemselves, sent Pati'ick, Loi'd
Lindsay, from Edinbui-gh, the seat of usurpation, to Lochleven Castle, to
oblige Mary to resign her sceptre and her sword. Meantime the clergy,
sitting in convention within that guilty town, clamoured for the blood of the
same sovereign who had relieved them from the severe penalties of so many

(a) Keith, 409. Even on the 2nd of Jul}' 1567, when that document was hvid by Morton and
Athol before the town, it was made to avow that the objects of their insurrection were, in their
duty to their sovereign, to punish the murderers of the king ; to procure the dissolution of the
marriage between her highness and Earl Bothwell ; and to relieve their sovereign from the thraldom,
ignominy, and shame which she had sustained by the said Earl. lb. App. All this the}' professed,
even after they bad degraded, dethroned, and imprisoned the unhappy queen. Beyond the assurance
of Morton and Athol, impudence could not carry shameless men. Keith, 409, and App. 148, shows
by collation that the copy of that association, which was certified by Guthrie, the town clerk, for
insertion in the books of Privy Council, was grossly interpolated. This Guthrie went out into rebellion
with Murray, in 1565 ; was present, after being pardoned by the queen, at Rizzio's murder, for which
he was obliged to flee, and, in addition to treason and murder, he now added the baseness of
forgery.

(6) Maitland, 29. Those preparations were obviously made to resist the associated nobles at
Hamilton. If these nobles were for the queen, then the magistrates were acting against their own
act. The queen had voluntarily separated herself from Bothwell as soon as she could, and to run into
civil war on such gross pretests was delusion in the extreme, if the magistrates of Edinbui'gh meant
well.

((.') Keith, 410 : As soon as Mun-ay became regent, he entered into a negotiation with Balfour for
the amicable surrender of the castle, and on the 5th of September 1567, the castle was surrendered,
when Sir William Kirkcaldy was appointed the governor. Keith, 455, states the b.argain which was
then made for that surrender ; and Binel's Diary, 12, shows the day on which the castle was put into
abler hands.

{fl) Keith, 430.

Sect. YL—Ils Civil Histori/.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 663

statutes (e). Lord Liudsay carried with liim to Loclileven three instruments,
one containing the queen's resignation of tlie crown to her infant son ; another
constituting provisional regents for her son's government ; and a third, em-
powering Murray, her bastard brother, to act as regent during her son's
infancy {/). To such instruments, that odious messenger could not obtain the
imprisoned queen's voluntary signature ; " and haggard Lindsay's iron eye could
see fair Mary weep in vain." He returned with those instruments, formally
executed, on the subsequent day to Edinburgh. The secret council immediately
convened, and there was now laid before it one of those instruments, con-
taining the queen's resignation of her sovereignty to her son ((/). The insurgent
chiefs immediately entered into a second association for carrying those measures
into effect ; avowing as their motive the queen's wishes to see her son govern
his native kingdom during her own life-time (h). It is curious to remark how
readily those chiefs, with Moi'ton at their head, and Maitland as their secretary,
could supply themselves with some pretence or falsehood, or forgery, as their
occasions required. They now determined to crown the infant James ; and the
magistrates of Edinburgh appointed three of their number as commissioner's to
represent the City at the coronation, though it was not customary for the
burghs to attend such ceremonies (i). On the 29th of July 15'j7, the
prince was crowned king of Scotland in the kirk of Stirling, the lords pro-
ducing the queen's commission and consent under her own hand and seal (k).
All those great measures were executed under those three instruments which the
queen executed under solitary confinement, and the threats of a ruffian, without
any other presence than Lindsay, who was capable of any villany, as well as
any violence. In this manner, then, was accomplished the conspiracy for de-
throning Mary Stewart, and for placing her ambitious brother in her seat, as

(/) See those instruments in Keith, 430-3 ; and in the Parliamentary Acts of December 1567.

(ff) Keith, 434. The members present at that scandalous transaction were : The Earl of Morton,
the great director of those violent measures, the Earl of Athol, the Earl of Home, Lord Sanquhar and
Lord Euthven. The queen's resignation and commission for the government were proclaimed at the
cross of Edinburgh, on the 25th of July 1567. Spottiswoode, 21 1.

(/i) See that secoiid bond in Keith, 434. (t) Keith, 435-6 ; Maitland, 31.

(k) Bin-el's Diary, 1 1 ; Keith, 437. On the 2nd of August, the prince viras proclaimed king at
the cross of Edinburgh. Birrel's Diary, 11. On the 11th of the same month, Murra)-, who was
perfectly infonned of all those measures, arrived at Edinburgh from France, where he had waited
those preconcerted events. Id. ; Spottiswoode, 211. On the 22nd of August, Murray was
solemnly proclaimed, at the cross of Edinburgh, regent, during the prince's infancy. Id. ; Keith.
454.

664 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

her son's regent, which had required so many pretences, so many falsehoods,
and so many ci-imes to ohtain ; while the government of her son and brother
was founded not on the resolve of a national convention, or the votes of the
three Estates, but on the presumption of insurgency and the dictates of cabal.
In pursuit of those nefarious measures, the magistrates of Edinburgh partook of
the intrigue, and shared in the disgrace.

The regent immediately displayed the vigour and harshness of his nature.
He obtained, as we have seen, from Sir James Balfour, at whatever price, the
command of Edinburgh Castle {!). He issued precepts to various persons in
Mid-Lothian, who were supposed to be attached to the queen, commanding
them to surrender themselves and their strengths (»i). A proclamation was
issued on the 1st of September 1567. requiring all persons to meet the regent
at Edinburgh, in four days, furnished for the warlike purpose of accomj^anying
him to the siege of Dunbar [x). Another proclamation was issued, prohibiting
the use of guns, pistols, or other firearms, on pain of death (o). This proclama-
tion, at the cross of Edinburgh, was followed by another, which required amity,
and prohibited the causes of discord (p).

Those various proclamations seem to have been intended, to prepare people's
minds for the pi'oposed meeting of pai'liament. The three estates assembled
at Edinburgh, in the town hall, on the 15th of December 1567, when the
sceptre was carried by Argyle, the sword by Huntly, and the crown by Angus,
a boy of scarcely fourteen (q). The first act of this busy session was intended to
legalize Mary's resignation of the crown, which was declared to have been
voluntaiy, and to be legal. By it, also, the coronation of her infant son was
recognised as constitutional. By a second act the authority of the regent was
legalized. Another act was proposed by the chiefs of the insurgents, and
adopted by the parliament, without any apparent inquiry with regard to the
retention of the qiteen's person. The justification of those chiefs was now put upon

(/) Keith, 455 ; Spottiswood, 213 ; Birrel's Diary of the 5th of September 1567.

(m) Keith, 459. Among others who were thus summoned was Sinclair of Roslin, who was
commanded to deliver his castle in twenty-four hours. Id. On the 17th of January 15G8-9, the
Laird of Roslin and his servants won his castle from the Laird of Lochinvai-'s servants. Birrel's
Diary.

(n) Keith, 401 ; Birrel's Diary.

(o) Id. On the 24th of November 1567, three days before, the Laird of Airth and the Laird of
Wemyss, with their followers, meeting on the street of Edinburgh, had fought a bloody skirmish with
shot of pistol. Birrel's Diary.

(;)) Keith, 466. (q) Birrel's Diary of that date ; the Black Acts of that Session.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil Histori/.} OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 665

the default of the queen herself (r). But they failed, as we have just seen, in making
out that default. They have another defaxdt behind. They charged the queen,

()•) Black Acts of that session : The queen's default was proved by " lier imvy letters,
written ichoUie with her own hand, and sent hj her to James Earl Bothwell," and by her pre-
tended marriage with him, and by the assertion that she was privy to the actual murder of her
husband. Now, 1st, it has already appeared, from the dying declaration of Morton himself, who
was at the head of those chiefs and chancellor, that the Earl of Bothwell, on the 10th of February
1567, the morning of Darnley's murder, had not any privy letters or other writings of the queen
within his power. 2ndly, The story told by the same Morton, that he had found a box of letters
on Dalgleish, a servant of Bothwell, returning from Edinburgh Castle, where he had received the
same from Sir James Balfour, on the 20th of June 1507, cannot possibly be believed ; for Both-
well, with Mary, fled from Edinburgh on the 6th of the same month, not choosing to seek safety
in Edinburgh Castle, as they could not trust Balfour. On the 15th of the same month, Bothwell
retired from Carberry Hill to Dunbar, where the queen surrendered herself to the insurgents ; on the
morrow the queen was sent a prisoner to Lochleven. And yet it is said by Morton, who was
capable of deliberate falsehood, that he had seized a box of privy letters, which Dalgleish was carry-
ing from Balfour, in Edinburgh Castle, on the 20th of the same month of June ; the same Balfour
being a person who perfectly knew the true value of such privy letters, and who was already gained
by the insurgents and distrusted by Bothwell. On the 26th of the same month of June, Dalgleish
was examined upon oath, by the Privy Council, with the same Morton at the head of it ; yet he said
not one word about such letters, or such a transaction. Anders. Col. ii., 173. Nor, was Sir James
Balfour ever examined about the delivery of such a box with letters, although he might have been
easily sent for. This discovery of such letters rests, of course, on the assertion of Morton, who had
an interest to deceive and was capable of deception. That any writing of the queen had been
discovered by the insurgents was first intimated by Throgmorton, Queen Elizabeth's envoy, at
Edinburgh on the 24th of July, subsequent to the same 20th of June, when Morton said he had
seized them. Keith, 424-7. 3rdly, The supposed letters were first produced in the Privy Couuoil
on the 4th of December lo67, where sat Murray the regent, Morton the chancellor, and the same
Sir James Balfour, when those letters are described " as loritten and subscribed with her oirn hand.''
Whitaker's App., No. 1. 4th!y, When those letters were laid before the parliament on the 15th
of the same month, they are described " as whoUi/ written with her own hand, but not subscribed."
Black Acts of that Session. Here then are four points, in addition to the queen's denial, that
she ever wrote such letters, which form a moral demonstration of the Jorgery of those supjiosed
letters: 1st, Botliwell had no such letters on the 10th of February 1507, the day of the murder;
2nd, It is untrue that Morton or any other man ever found such letters on Dalgleish ; 3rd, The
letters which were laid before the Privy Council were said to be m-itten and subscribed by the
queen ; 4th, The letters which were laid before the parliament a few days afterward, are said to
have been written by the queen, but not subscribed, by her. When we have thus obtained morcd
demonstration of the forgery of those letters, it were idle to go further in quest of additional
evidence to establish their positive spuriousness. The regent Murray, the chancellor Morton, the
secretary Maitland, and the whole officers of state, impeached the queen in parliament of being ac-
cessory to the murder of her husband ; and when their proofs are examined, they are found to be for-
geries. This conduct is sufficiently wicked ; but when we consider that they impeached an innocent
wife of the crime which themselves had procured to be committed by Bothwell, their turpitude admits
of infinite aggravation.

666 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

who had sent Bothwell to be tried by his country, of holding back the know-
ledge of the truth; and by coloured means, to have obtained a delusive acquittal
of the guilty person, and this is charged by Morton, the chancellor, and his
colleagues, who obtained, by collusive measures, the acquittal of Bothwell ; and
who afterwai'd entered Into a written association to defend his conduct, as
innocent, and his acquittal as just (5). The same Morton and his colleagues,
charged the queen, also, with inordinate love for Bothwell, and with a settled
purpose of making the prince, her son, taste of the same cup as had been ad-
ministered to his father. This is charged by the same Morton, and other
nobles, who, by a written association, had recommended Bothwell, after his
collusive acquittal, as the properest husband for the queen ; and who, by such
recommendation, encouraged that unprincipled noble to ravish the queen ; and
thereby made it necessary to marry him, as she had no other resource for her
tarnished honour. The charge of a design on the life of her son is, mei-ely, the
revival of an absurd calumny, which was propagated by the insurgent chiefs, to
raise popular indignation, in order to obtain, by false pretences, for themselves,
popular favour. The parliament of December 1567, by adopting without
examination such calumnies, and countenancing such charges, involved itself
in the ignominy of its chiefs, who instituted an impeachment which they could
not prove without the aid of forgery ; and asserted fictions which they knew
to be untrue. The legislators of this session, however, abolished expressly the
Pope's authority, which had been already abolished by law in April 1567, as
we have seen. They established, by positive statute, " the jurisdiction of the
kirk ; " abolishing every other form of religion, and requiring the king, by
his coronation oath, to withstand, and put down all false religions, contrary to
" the one perfect religion." They confirmed the acts of the doubtful parliament
of August 1560. They enacted a confession of faith. They recognized the
queen's act of toleration ; thinking perhaps that it might do some good, while
it could not do much mischief In this manner, then, was the reformed religion,
for the first time, established by law in exclusion of every other, which the go-
vernment was now bound by law to suppress. Some laws of domestic economy
were also passed, and preparations were made, by the appointment of com-
missioners, to enact many more in some future session {€). No one doubted

(,5) See their bond for tliose ends dated the 20th of April 1567. Anders. Col. i. 107-12 ; Keith,
380. The true date is the 20th, not the 19th of April.

(t) See the Black Acts of this Session, as printed by Lekprevick on the 6th of April 1568. On
the last day of the session, Bothwell and some of his associates were forfalted for the h'iii/\- murder.
Birrel's Diary of the 29th December 1567. The act of attainder for that end is in the Paper Office.

Sect. VI.— 7^5 CivU Histoiy.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B R I T A I N. 667

the legality of those parliamentary proceedings, on whatever authority the
Estates were assembled, or suspected the fitness of changing a queen who had
talents, for a boy who had none, though the real object of so many measures
which cannot be defended, became sufficiently plain when Murray was appointed
regent.

But an event was at hand which meanwhile gave a new turn to affairs. On
the 2nd of May 1568, the queen made her escape from Loch Leven Castle in
Fife, to Hamilton in Lanarkshire. The regent prepared to meet her in conflict (if).
The magistrates of Edinburgh ordered the city to be put in the best possible
state of defence, and directed a guard to watcb over its safety day and night (x).
On the 13th of the same month the queen was discomfited at Langside Hill,
and was obliged to seek for refuge in England. Queen Elizabeth had often
given shelter to the treasonous nobles of Scotland, but she now gave an un-
authorized imprisonment of long endurance to her cousin, her neighbour, and
her fellow queen.

The regent called a parliament for forfeiting those who had recently met him
in battle. The magistrates of Edinburgh ordered the deacons to assemble their
several trades in order to ascertain by their oaths to which side they were each
attached during this time of national trouble (y). The practice of many a year
had shown that the rulers of Edinburgh had but imperfect notions of civil
freedom, and knew still less of the true art of wise government. The Parliament
met at Edinburgh on the 16th of August 1568 ; it sat till the 24th, execut-
ing the prompt vengeance which a new, more than an ancient government, is
so prone to inflict. The city of Edinburgh was meantime in arms for preserving
the quiet of irascible men whose passions were inflamed by civil and religious
collisions (z). The pestilence at the same time raged within the city, adding
its grievous ravages to the turmoils of domestic perturbations (a).

Out of those disquietudes arose an event which was attended with great con-
sequences. On the 21st of January 1569-70, the Regent Murray, at the age of

On the 18tli of December 1567, a convention of cturchmen and their coadjutors met at Edinburgh,
and the kirk assembly convened at the same place on the 25th of the same month. Keith, 585-90 ;
and those facts point to the authority whence several of the acts of parliament, which sat at the same
time and in the same town, proceeded ; and account for the delusion which could receive forgeries for
facts and assertions for certainties.

(m) In the meantime there was proclaimed in Edinburgh a great fast for eight days' duration.
Birrel's Diary, 15 ; and the preachers of the metropolis prayed that the Lord would turn her enter-
prise to nought. Keith, 591.

{x) Maitland's Edin. 31. (y) Id. (?) Birrel's Diary, 17.

(a) Birrel's Diary, 17 ; Maitland Edin. 31-2.

€68 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

forty, was slain on Linlithgow street by the "vengeful ire" of Hamilton of Both-
welhaugh {b). This unexpected event threw Edinburgh into great confusion. The
magistrates oi'dered a strong guard to be kept day and night. The senators of
the college of justice formed a design to leave a city which mingled so much with
civil contest. The magistrates applied to Morton, the chancellor, beseeching
hun to prevent that event, and promising to revenge the regent's murder, and
to support the king's interest (c). The chiefs of the queen's party marched
from Linlithgow to Edinburgh. Kirkcaldy, the governor of Edinburgh Castle
and pi-ovost of the town, prevailed on the citizens to receive them within its walls.
Kirkcaldy set at liberty the Duke of Chatelherault and Lord Herries who had,
by the regent, been committed prisoners to the castle ; with Kirkcaldy acceded
to the queen's party the Earl of Athol and Secretary Maitland. A civil war now
commenced whose miseries did not soon come to an end. They easily found
a new regent in the Earl of Lennox, but repose was not so readily obtained
or retained amid infuriate factions. In May 1571, two parliaments sat in the
harassed metropolis ; the king's parliament convened in the Canongate, and
the queen's in the ancient place, the Tolbooth of Edinburgh (d). The several
legislatures not only fulminated forfeitures at each other, but their partizans
fought frequent skirmishes in the neighbourhood and in the streets. The castle
was, meantime, kept for the queen with great superiority of advantage by Kirk-
caldy, the best soldier of a warlike people, and Holyrood House was I'etained
for the king by the Regent Lennox. At length Elizabeth interposed with her
usual alacrity and vigour ; she sent a small army under Drury from Berwick
to Edinbui'gh ; they besieged the castle, which surrendered on the 29th of May
1573 (e). The quick succession of four regents, who fell amidst the furies of
civil war, did not tranquillize a wretched nation, nor restore Edinburgh to the
quiet which it had lost by its own factious follies.

(J) The date of that consequential event has been left by the inaccuracy of the Scottish historians
somewhat doubtful. Spottiswoode says he was slain on Saturday, which happened on the 21st of
January. Cecil in his Journal places that event on the 22nd of January 1569-70. Murden, 769 ; and
the 21st of January of that year was probably the true date.

(e) Birrel's Diary, 20-21. Kirkcaldy, the governor, though he sun-endered on terms, was
hanged at the cross of Edinburgh on the 3rd of August. He could not be forgiven by Morton,
whose castle of Dalkeith Kirkcaldy had destroyed on the same day that Morton had wasted his
estate in Fife. Such were the blows which were mutually given and received by an infatuated
people.'

Sect. \l.—Its Civil History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN.

069

At length the king himself came upon the unsettled stage, on the 1 Otli of March
1577-8, when Morton was driven from the regency by the indignation of the
nobles, and sixteen counsellors were chosen to sit with that boyish ruler
within the Tolbooth of Edinburgh (a). These events were received by the
ofiended people with loud acclaims. Morton was required to surrender Edin-
burgh Castle, which, however, he prepared to defend; but the enraged
citizens attacked his followers with such success, that he was glad to relinquish
what he could not retain (b). Nor was that hated statesman to be easily
driven from his prey. On the 26th of April 1578, Morton, with the aid of
Mar, surprised the Castle of Stirling, where the king resided with unsuspicious
guard. Morton now resumed the charge of the king's person and the direction
of his spirit (c). In the contest between Morton and his opponents, whether
the parliament should sit at Edinburgh or Stirling, the magistrates of Edin-
burgh refused to interfere (d). During the year 1578, Edinburgh was crowded
with the followers of the cabal, who opposed the Earl of Morton, and who were
never thoroughly reconciled to that hated noble (e).

The king, having summoned a parliament at Edinburgh in October 1579,
resolved to remove from Stirling. The citizens of Edinburgh now exerted
themselves to give him a splendid reception (/), The king came to Edinburgh
on the 17th of October, when he was magnificently received, and passed
through to the palace of Holyrood with a calvacade of two thousand horse (g).
On the 23d of October 1579, the king held a parliament in the Tolbooth of

(a) Birrel, 21 ; Maitland's Edin., 34-5. (b) Id. Moyse's Mem., C-7.

(c) Morton would not permit the king to hold his parliament at Edinburgh on the 2.Jth of July
1578, as he himself was obnoxious to the people of the metropolis. Mait. Edin., oG.

(d) Id. Morton wrote in the king's name to the magistrates of Edinburgh, requiring them to
choose specified persons, as the town council, at Michaelmas 1578, but they declined ; and. receiving
another letter to the same effect, they took the opinion of the citizens, who confirmed their refusal.
On the day of election a letter from the king was produced, requiring their compliance ; biit they
adhered to their resolution of choosing their own counsellors. Mait. Edin., 3G-7. This historian is
60 weak as to run out against the king for the act of Morton. Maitland perseveres in repeating this
folly while the king was a prisoner to the elder Gowrie. lb., 38.

(e) Moyse's Mem., 3-31.

(/) The citizens were ordered by the magistrates to appear in their richest dresses, and the streets
to be decorated with tapestry and arraswork. Mait. Ediu., 37. They presented the king with a rich
service of plate. Id.

(ij) Id. Crawford's Mem., 317 ; Moyse's Mem., 38-9. When the king came to the Landgate, the
townsmen in arms, met him ; tlie caule also shot vollies, and the people rejoiced much at his
majesty's coming. Id.

4 4 Q

670 An ACCOUKT [Ch. V Edinburghshire.

Edinburgh, which sat till the 12th of Novembei'. In this session, the HamUtons
were forfeited, when their rich abbeys wei'e given to more needy courtiers [h).

The ministei's continued to reprehend the king from their pulpits, not for his
prodigality, but his favouritism ; from an ambition of calumny, rather than a
desire of amendment (t). The king, animated by Arrau, persevered in restrain-
ing the ministers from speaking evil of dignities, as caluminous intermeddling
with state aftairs.

The time was at length come when the Earl of Morton was to suffer for his
many crimes. In December 1580, he was accused, before the privy coumcU,
of being an accessory to the murder of Darnley. He was at first warded
in the palace of Holyrood ; and soon after sent to Edinburgh castle. He was
again removed under a strong guard to Dumbarton castle (Jc). Morton was
afterward convicted of the imputed crime, and died on the block, confessing his
guilty knowledge with his dying breath (I). During such perturbations, the
king ordered a body of Edinburgh citizens, in arms, to guard the palace of
Holyrood [m).

Such were the laxity of manners and the debility of law during that age,
that the king could not visit any noble without danger of seizure for the most
selfish purposes. In this manner was James detained at Ruthven by the elder

(h) Moyse's Mem., 40.

({) lb., 41. Durj-, one of the ministers of Edinburgh, soon after the rising of the assembly in
1580, was by the privy council committed to Edinburgh Castle for some public speeches ; but he was
soon liberated on the application of his fellow ministers, and his promise of forbearance. Spottis-
woode, 311. This is the first check which was given to the calumny of preaching since the queen's
return from France. Dury did not keep his promise, and he continued to declaim from his pulpit
against the king and his favourites, Lennox and Anan. The king thereupon commanded Durj- to be
removed from Edinburgh and to cease from preaching in any other town. The magistrates were
charged to cause him to be removed. The assembly which was then sitting in Edinburgh interposed
on behalf of Dury ; but the king would not give way, and obliged the magistrates to remove Dury.
This seditious preacher was triumphantly restored when the king was seized by Gowrie. Spottis-
woode, 321 ; and Calderwood.

(k) Moyse's Mem., 46. The town of Edinburgh furnished, on that occasion, two hundred hack-
butters. Id. The king also required another hundred hackbutters to attend on his person within the
palace of Holyrood. Maitland, 38.

{I) See his confession during his last moments in Bannatyne's Journal, 49-53 ; Crawford's IJem.,
2nd edit., App. The person who had the merit of freeing the nation from that prodigious criminal
was Stewart of Ochiltree, the king's favourite, who became Earl of Arran and Chancellor of
Scotland.

{?») Mait. Edin., 39.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 671

Gowrie {n). On that occasion the Duke of Lennox apphed to the magistrates
for protection (o). Gowrie and the other conspirators, who now had possession
of the king, wrote to those magistrates in September 1582, desiring them to
choose specified persons into the town coimcil (p); but they decUned to
comply with a request which would have placed the iiile of the city in the
power of every succeeding faction. The conspirators soon after brought the
king to Holyroodhouse, and they at length demanded of the magistrates a body
of hackbutters to guard him in his palace (q). Other requisitions of a similar
kind were made on the magistrates of Edinburgh, as the king was without a
guard, and without a revenue to pay one (r).

A new scene of a different sort was now ready to open at Edinburgh, In
January 1582-3, two ambassadors arrived there from France, in order to
solicit the king's freedom. The preachers of Edinburgh railed against them
from their pulpits. The ambassadors were mortified, but as they perceived
the king's inability to prevent the calumny of the churchmen, or to protect the
injured, they only hastened their departure. The king commanded the magis-
trates of Edinburgh to feast the ambassadors before they proceeded on their
return ; but the preachers were not to be prevented from following up their
insults on the ambassadors. They directed a fast to be kept on the day of the
feast, and three of their number preached successively in St. Giles's church,
so as to occupy the whole day with invectives against the magistrates and
nobles, who, by the king's direction, accompanied the ambassadors. The

(n) On the 23rd of August 1582, the king's majesty, saith Birrel, being in the palace of Ruthven,
was presumptuously held in the place by the lord thereof against his will, and caused his
majesty to expel the Duke of Lennox. This, he adds, was a very great presumption in a subject to
his prince. Diary, 22. We thus perceive that Birrel had not any conception that this was a very
great crime.

(o) Malt. Edin., 39.

(^p) lb., 20 : Maitland foolishly runs out against the imprisoned king, as if he could be answerable
for the act of the traitors.

(j) Mait. Edin., 40, dates the above requisition on the 16th of October 1582. Spottiswoode, 321,
says they brought the king to Holyroodhouse in the beginning of October, knowing that the people of
Edinburgh did approve their enterprise, as appeared by the restoration of John Dury, the preacher,
upon the news of the king's restraint, and the triumph they made, singing, as they went up the street,
the 124th psalm. The Scottish church voted this restraint upon the Hikj' s person "to be a good and
acceptable service to God, the king, and the country." Aniot's Grim. Trials, 35. The Earl of Gowrie.
however, was executed for his treasons on the 4th of May 1584, at Stirling. Birrel's Diary, 23. And
the parliament of May 1584 confirmed several proceedings against that guilty noble and his associate
traitors. Unprinted Acts of that session.

()•) Mait. Edin., 40.

672 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. y.—Edinbyrghshire.

malignity of the churchmen did not stop here. After the departure of the
ambassadors, they pursued the magistrates with the censures of the church,
and with difficulty could be prevented from proceeding the length of excom-
municating the objects 6f their scandal (s).

The king, on the 27th of June 1583, freed himself from the thraldom of
Gowrie's faction, and he made preparations to emancipate himself from the
domination of the clergy. For those ends the parliament was convened at
Edinburgh on the 22nd of May 1584. With that design, various acts were
accordingly passed (t), and there was also established other statutes with
respect to domestic economy. A guard of forty gentlemen on horseback for
attending on the king's person was now established, with two hundred pounds
a-year for each horseman through life, and adequate provision was, in the same
spirit, made for the governor of Edinburgh castle (u). The clergy heard of
those parliamentary proceedings with great indignation. Some of the preachers
of Edinburgh attempted to enter the parhament house to remonstrate against
those decisive measures, but the doors were shut against them (x). They de-
claimed against them in their pulpits {y). When the acts of parliament were
soon after proclaimed at the cross of Edinburgh, Pont and Balcanqual protested
against them, and the preachers, pretending fear for their lives, retired to
Berwick, whence they wrote letters to the magistrates, which they put into the
hands of the king (z).

(s) Spottiswoode. 324: Calderwood, 138. The magistrates themselves carried tlieir fanaticism up to
folly. On the 19tli of July 1583, they passed an Act against those burgesses' daughters who should
not be reputed virgins on their day of marriage. Mait. Edin., 41.

(t) By one of those acts, the king's power over all estates and subjects was confirmed. By a second,
the authority of the three Estates was declared, as it had been questioned. By a third, all jurisdic-
tions and conventions without the king's licence were prohibited. By a fourth, the manner of the
deprivation of ministers was appointed. By a fifth, the ministers were prohibited from being senators
of the College of Justice, or being advocates, agents, or notaries. By a sixth, punishment was
provided for the slanderers of the king, his progenitors, his estates, and realm. Skene's Statute

Book.

ill) The Earl of Arran was both provost of the city and governor of the castle in the years 1584
and 1585. Birrel ; Calderwood, 166. There was a large provision made by parliament for the
keeping of Edinburgh Castle by the Act 9 Pari. James VI.. No. 8. The town council of Edinburgh,
in May 1584, for the honour of the city, ordered that their chief magistrate and representative in
parliament should be attended during the session to and from the Tolbooth and Holyroodhouse by
twenty of the princip.il citizens. Mait. Edin., 42.

(x) Calderwood, 155. (y) lb., 156.

(z) Id. The king continued to meddle in the elections of Edinburgh long after his influence was
contemned, owing to the improper use of unfit interposition. Mait. Edin. throughout.

Sect. YL—Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 673

After a grievous struggle through a wretched minority, James approached to
the legal age of twenty-one. On an occasion so interesting a parliament was
summoned to Edinburgh. But the king, supposing himself to possess in an
eminent degree the powers of persuasion, resolved to perform an impossibility,
by promoting the reconcilement of the irreconcileable nobles. On the 13th of
May 1587, he made a royal banquet in Holyrood House, where, with puerile
conceit, he made irascible men walk into the city hand in hand. The magis-
trates, entering into the same views, entertained the king and nobles at their
market cross (6). The parliament accordingly assembled, after all those
measures of preparation, at Edinburgh on the 29th of July 1587. The king's
perfect age was now declared to be, after his completion of one-and-twenty
years (c). The various acts of his minority, particularly those relating to reli-
gion, were now confirmed (d). The practice of persecution was confirmed and
enforced (e). Punishments were provided for the sellers of erroneous books {/).
The preachers were provided for (g). The temporality of benefices was annexed
to the crown by an act of great comprehension (h). The power and sitting of
pai'liaments wei'e enforced and regulated (i). Provision was also made for
the better administration of justice. The receivers of the king's rents were
required to find security in Edinburgh. There were also made various acts of
domestic economy during this session, the most important perhaps of any in the
Statute Book (Jc).

During the subsequent year, the national attention was drawn to more war-
like objects. When intelligence arrived, in August 1588, that the Spanish
armada approached the shores of Scotland, preparations were made to receive it
with adequate spirit, and the magistrates of Edinburgh commanded the citizens
to provide themselves with arms to prevent a descent ; directing at the same
time three hundred men to be raised for the town's defence [I). It had now
become the king's practice, arising from his penury, to direct the magistrates of
Edinburgh to entertain ambassadors and other considerable persons coming to
this metropolis, at a ruinous exjDense (m) ; which, however, did not conceal the
wretchedness of a people, who, during thirty years of reform, had few means of
acquiring wealth.

(i) Birrel's Diary ; Maitl. Edin., 44. The king not only received such entertainments, but he
seems to have exercised the power of requiring the citizens to entertain whomsoever he thought fit,
both men and women. lb., 43-5.

(e) Sltene's Acts, p. 76. (d) Id. (e) lb., 75. (/) Id. (-/) Id.

(h) lb., 76. (!) lb., 86. (k) See the Acts in Skene and Qlendook.

(/) Maitl. Edin., 45. (ni) See Maitl. Edinburgh throughout.

674 An account [Ch. Y.—Edmhirghshire.

The king's ^^marriage created almost as much intrigue and disquiet as the
spousals of his mother. Elizabeth, intei-posing with similar artifices, seems to
have gained James's ministers ; but as he suspected that his chancellor and
counsellors obstructed his favourite nuptials with the daughter of Denmark,
the king secretly incited the chiefs of the tradesmen of Edinburgh to mob his
ministers (h). They were thus induced to dispatch the Earl Marshal and other
envoys to Denmark, for settling that i"ich and honourable match. James
meantime commanded, in his usual tone, the magistrates of his metropolis to
prepare entertainments for the expected queen and her retinue, till Holy rood-
house coidd be prepared for her reception ; but they gave five thousand
marks to be excused (o). " But, dire portents the purposed match with-
stand." A tempest forced back the fleet which bore the Danish bride to the
Scottish shore ; and the youthful king, with more enterprise than he was
supposed to possess, set out himself in October 1589, to dissolve the charm
which had raised the waves and unbound the winds (2^). He even obliged
the magistrates of Edinburgh to supply him with a ship for transporting from
Denmark the dear object of all his " travail difiicult (q)." The 1st of May
1590, saw the king and queen arrive safe at Leith, after so many obstruc-
tions and perils. They were received with the general and loud acclaims of
real welcome (;•) ; but the queen was still to be crowned, and it occurred to
the censorious minds of the ministers of Edinburgh that the rite of unctiou could
not be allowed. The king overcame their scruples by threatening to bring a
bishop to perform this ceremony according to the ancient custom (s) ; and she
was solemnly crowned on the 7th of May, with the accustomed rites, in the
abbey church of Holyrood {t).

After all those marks of joy in the people and discontent of the clergy, the
king had to sustain a long contest with the Earl of Bothwell, in the effects of
which the metropolis was involved. On the 27th of December 1590, the
turbulent noble broke into the palace at the hour of supper, when, meeting

(n) Melvil's Mem., 327. (0) Maitl. Edin., 45. {p) Spottiswoode, 377-9.

(5) Maitl. Edin., 45, states, with dissatisfaction, tlie expense of tbe corporation for that ship at
£500 Scots a month.

(r) Id. ; Calderwood, 255. («) Spottiswoode, 381-2.

(t) She made her public entry into the metropolis on the 19th of May, when she seems to have
been again manied in St. Giles's kirk, and when she was presented with a rich jewel, which appears to
have been pledged to the city by the king himself. Maitl. Edin., 45. The magistrates, by the royal
command, had to entertain the Danish ambassadors. Id. Those feastings continued for a month, at
the end of which the strangei-s departed with rich presents. Spottiswoode, 382.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 675

with some obstruction, he attempted to fire the king's apartments. A body
of armed citizens repaired to the palace, and Bothwell was now obliged to
flee, killing some of the king's domestics as he retired. Eight of his followers
were executed on the morrow, but the principal traitor lived to be forfeited by
parliament on the 21st of July 1593 («). Under other governments, the
attainder of the traitor, by the supreme tribunal, is followed by punishment
and quiet ; but in Scotland, under such a prince as James VI., forfeiture of
a noble was followed by pardon, by reiterated treasons, by judgments, by
restorations and embarrassments. During several years Bothwell was raised
up and cherished by that frivolous prince to disturb his own palace, and to
disquiet his people's peace (x).

The king appears to have renewed, in September 1593, his practice of
dictation to the city of Edinburgh, as to their annual choice of the town council,
provost, and other officers. They seem to have resisted this assumption ; and
James issued a precept, containing the names of those whom he wished to be
chosen, under pain of rebellion ; and declaring his dispensation with such acts
of parliament as stood opposed to his royal precept (i/). The town council
appear to have obeyed the king's pi-ecept, by choosing the persons of his
appointment (z). The Intermedling passion of James VI. carried him one step
further. On the 27th of November 1593, he issued a proclamation directing
that no person should repair to Edinburgh without his leave (a). The whole
conduct of this feeble prince justifies the historical remark, that a weak govern-
ment is always the most violent.

The queen was delivered of a prince, on the 19th of February 1594, who was
baptized by the name of Henry Frederick. The town council of Edinburgh pre-
sented the king, for the christening of his son and heir, ten tuns of wine ; and sent
a hundred of the citizens, richly accoutred, to attend the ceremony (b). During

(u) Spottiswoode, 387.

(.e) Spottiswoode, the Scottish historian, and Birrel's Diary, are filled with the reiterated treasons
and final expulsion of Earl Bothwell, as we have seen. On the 21st of Jnlj 1593, however, passed
an Act of Parliament, strengthening the authority of the magistrates of Edinburgh, in preserving the
peace thereof and in executing legal process. 13 Par. James VI., c. 184.

(i/) Maitl. Edin., 46, records that extraordinary document.

(c) Alexander Home of North Berwick, who certainly had the merit of rescuing the king from
the hands of Bothwell at a critical moment, was of course chosen provost during the years
1593-96.

(a) The above proclamation, saith Birrel, grieved the town of Edinburgh, and especially the
ministers, who were chiefly opposed by it. Diary, 31.

(b) Maitl. Edin., 46 ; Spottiswoode, 407.

676 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y. —Edinburghshire.

Both well's treasonous tumults in 1595, the town council furnished the king
with a guard of fifty citizens for his palace of Holyrood (c). The feebleness of
James's government even induced, in September 1595, a rebellion of the boys
in Edinburgh school, who shot one of the magistrates from the school-house (d).
The principles of the age generally actuate the practice of the youth ; and the
stubbornness of those reformed times, we thus see, inspired the school-boys with
their murderous practice.

In the subsequent year, on the 19th of August, the queen gave James a
daughter, who was named Elizabeth, after the English queen, and to her
christening, on the 1st of December, within Holyroodhouse, the king invited
the magistrates of Edinburgh, vi^ho, feeling this honour, engaged to give this
welcome princess 10,000 marks on her nuptial day (c). So easily are the people
pleased by their princes when they are propei'ly treated.

^leantime, the English ambassador complained to the king against David
Black, one of the ministers of St. Andrews, for calumniating his mistress from
the pulpit. He summoned the preacher before the privy council, for his
speeches, which were as unscriptural as they were illegal ; but Black, in
opposition to the late acts of parliament, declined to appear before the privy
council, as an incompetent authority {/) ; thus acting upon a principle which
Knox had incorporated into the Scottish church, to prefer clerical dogmatism
to the declarations of positive statute. Meantime, Andrew Melvil convened a
number of barons at Cupar-Fife, where they entered into an association
for raising an insurrection against the king's authority (g) ; avowing, according
to their principles, that they only owed subordination and obedience to the
kingdom of Christ. Now, what was this absurd pretence, but to set themselves
above the parliament, the supreme power of the temporal state. The conven-
tion of Cupar, disregarding the late statute, on the 20th of October, adjourned
themselves to Edinburgh, and by letters invited the several presbyteries to send

(e) Birrel's Diary, 38; Moyse's Mem., 245 ; and Cecils Journal places that event on the 19th of
August 1596. On the marriage of the princess, the magistrates actually paid the promised dowry,
adding to their liberality 5,000 marks. Maitl. Edin., 47, from the Town Register. The man-iage of
Frederick, prince palatine, and the Lady Elizabeth, the sole daughter of King James, was solemnized
on Shrove Sunday, the 14th of February 1612-13, in the chapel royal at Whitehall. Strype's West-
minster, 579.

(/) Moyse's Mem., 245-7 : The Act of Parliament was that of May 1584, in Skene's Stat., 58.

(ff) That convention of the barons of Fife, under another Act of the same session. Skene, 586, was
declared to be illegal, and subjected to the pains which were ordained by law against those who un-
lawfully convoke the king's subjects.

Sect. YL—Its Civil History.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B R I T A I N . 677

commissioners to Edinburgh, in order to form a standing council for caiTjing into
effei;t their secret purposes. How contrary this conduct was to the recent statutes
needs not be repeated. They went a step further in their progress of rebellion,
and they recommended to every preacher, both by public doctrine and by private
conference, to stir up the people to fear danger and to prepare for resistance (i).
This standing council of the Scottish church met every day at Edinburgh,
throughout November 1596. Tlie king sent the president of the session, the
secretary, and his advocate, to confer with that seditious meeting, and to know
what would satisfy them ; but we do not learn that those eminent lawyers
informed the ministers that they were an illegal body ; that they had already
incurred the pains of treason ; and would be prosecuted, if they did not depart
in peace. But this language was unfashionable at that period, however
familiar it is in more enlightened times. The standing council of ministers,
unconstitutional as they were, sent a deputation to the king, with a remon-
strance, and so ill educated was he, whatever he may have known of lan-
guages, that he received those deputies, having j^ersuaded himself that he
could out- reason ministers who were not under the influence of reason. It was
an essential trait of this feeble prince that he was vain enough to suppose that
he could govern fanatical men by his kingly persuasion, however unkingly wei'e
such conceits {k). The ministers treated him contemptuously, because he
acted weakly ; and they transmitted Black's declinature of the king's power in
his council to every preacher in Scotland, in order to make a common cause
against a wretched government. On the 26th of November 1596, Black was
again summoned, at the cross of Edinburgh, to answer before the privy council.
The government, on the same day, issued letters, charging the council of ministers
to depart from Edinbui-gh, and to cease from holding unlawful assemblies, on
pain of rebellion, but as they had seen no examples made, they did not fear
any danger. The ministers continued to act, as a standing council, against law ;
and they instructed several preachers to assert, "that the spiritual jurisdiction
" floweth immediately from Christ ; and of course cannot proceed from the
" king, or civil magistrate ; that the power of convening is from Christ, and
"his power cannot be prevented by any prince; and that their judicatories
" ought not to be under the control of any christian prince {I)." Here was
an avowal of their disobedience to the civil power, and, we may remember,
that this was one of the dogmas which Knox had brought from Geneva, and had

{i) Oalderwood, 333 ; Spottiswoode, 419.

(i) Calderwood, 334-5 ; Spottiswoode, 420. (/) Calderwood, 3-I-2.

4 4 R

678 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

interwoven into the texture of his peculiar church. The members of the
council at Edinburgh even went a step further; they sent a deputation to
the king, " threatening him with the consequences of not yielding to their
" purposes ; and 2^)vtesting before God, that they wei'e free of his tnajesty's
" blood (w)." The church was now at issue with the state. The clerical
council ordei'ed the presbytery of Edinburgh to call before them such persons of
the highest rank as were inimical to Christ and his church (n). The kmg
issued a declaration to correct the misrepresentation and falsehood of the clergy,
and the clerical council of ministers were charged, by sound of trumpet, at
the cross of Edinburgh, to pass from the town within eight-and-forty hours.
After some deliberation, the ministers resolved to depart, protesting that they
might laivfidly disobey ; and leaving to others, to take their places, for carrying
forward the good work of establishing the church on the ruin of the state (o).
The king now endeavoured, with unavailing eloquence, to conciliate the ministers
of Edinburgh (p). They only inflamed their bigoted partisans with wilder
passions (q). In order to prevent a tumult, on the 16th of November 1596,
four-and-twenty of the most turbulent citizens were commanded to leave the
capital. The ministers only preached more seditiously, while some of them
read, in the midst of the infuriate people, appropriate passages from the
scriptures ; and crying out, with seditious gestures, for the sword of Gideon.
Nor did the ministers and their partizans want leaders in arms. Lord Lmdsay,
the son of that savage who had compelled the imprisoned queen to resign her
crown, now took the lead in bringing forward the insurgents to attack the
king and his council, then sitting in consultation, within the town-house.
Home, the provost, and the magistrates, now came upon the theatre of tumult,
and, by skilful management, somewhat pacified the hideous uproar. A sort of
treaty now ensued between the king and clergy. James acted with more firm-
ness than was expected of him ; and the ministers rose, in their pretensions, to
complete independence of the constituted authorities of the reformed state (?•).

On the morrow, the 18th of December 1596, the king and his council
removed from Edinburgh to Linlithgow. He now issued a proclamation,
stating the principles and objects of the recent tumult within the capital ; the
unfitness of it for his residence or the safety of his judges ; and requiring the

(w) lb., 349 ; Spottiswoode, 424. (n) Calderwood, 358.

(o) Calderwood, 358 ; Spottiswoode, 427. {]>) Id.

(q) Birch's Mem., ii., 250, says the more zealous citizens determined to defend their ministers by
force of arms.

(r) Spottiswoode, 430 ; Moyse's Mem., 245-52.

Sect VI.— /te Civil Hii'tnrij.'] 0 F N 0 E T H - B R I T A I }^. r,7'J

Lords of Session, with every one connected with justice, to remove to a more
appropriate place, and the nobles to depart to their several residences {s). The
citizens of Edinburgh were now awakened to a sense of their own interest,
and all considerate men at length perceived that there could be neither
freedom, nor rights, nor quiet, whei'e the clergy indulged in pretensions which
admitted no earthly authority, and acknowledged no individual privileges. The
town council deliberated on their situation, without being able to determine
Avhat was most salutary. The zealous clergy persisted in their seditious courses ;
but the town council declined to sign their association. The ministers thus
wanting a head, offered that dangerous pre-eminence to Lord Hamilton ; but
he carried their seditious proposal to the king {t). Thus informed of tlie
rebellious purpose of the clergy, James, on the 20th of December 1596, sent
a charge to the magistrates of Edinburgh, to arrest the chiefs of the clergy, with
several of their partizans, and commit them to Edinburgh castle {u). Tlie
ministers now fled into England, with the connivance, probably, of the town
council ; as they did not retreat till the third day after the date of the king's
command. The privy council at length resolved, that the tumult at Edinburgh,
on the 17th of the same month, was traitorous. The several judicatories were
removed to Leith, and the Court o£ Session was directed to sit at Perth after
the 1st of February 1597. These decisive measures alarmed the councils of
Edinburgh, and they sent a deputation of citizens to Linlithgow with a
supplication for pardon. It was intimated to them that the Estates would be
convened at Edinburgh, Avhere the offence was committed ; and he would
follow their advice, as well as to the inquisition as to the punishment {x). On
the 1st of Janiiai'y 1597, James entered Edinburgh with great ceremony, the
keys being delivered to him, and the ports placed in the hands of those nobles
whom the king could trust {y). He met the convention in the town-house.
After some general discussion on the recent tumult, James admitted the provost

(«) Spottiswoode, 431. {t) Spottiswoode, 432.

(m) Calderwood, 367 ; Spottiswoode, 432. In the meantime, money and victual had been provided
for the keeping of the castle of Edinburgh : twelve hundred marks, to be paid monthly out of the
customs of Edinburgh, and the surplus of the thirds of benefices ; and of victual, one-third of the
income of the archbishop of St. Andrews and the abbey of Scone, and of other ecclesiastical revenues.
Stat. 9 Pari. James VI., No. 8.

{x) Spottiswoode, 309. On the 27th of December 1597, the king issued a proclamation, charging
all magistrates and others to inteiTupt the preachers when uttering false and traitorous speeches from
their pulpits. Calderwood, 369.

{tj) Birrel's Diary, 41.

680 A N A C C 0 U NT [Ch. \ .—Edinhwghshire.

and the magistrates to make their ample submission [z) After various pro-
ceedings as to the late tumult, in which Elizabeth interposed, the king pardoned
Edinburgh, on the 22d of March 1597 («)• On the morrow, James went into
the city, and drank with the provost and magistrates in token of reconcilement.
There was great rejoicing ; but they were ordered to pay a fine of thirty
thousand marks Scots {h). In this manner, then, did the king, taking advan-
tage of the misconduct of the magistrates, humble the capital of his kingdom ;
but whatever he may have then obtained of the reformed church, which had
defied all earthly power, her original pretensions were occasionally brought
forward, and her seditious practices were often renewed, till the Union with
England laid her political perturbations for ever.

The remaining years of James's reign over Scotland did not produce many
events in which the capital was much concerned. In 1598 and 1599, there
were frequent conventions in Edinburgh, which a feeble prince deemed neces-
sary for supporting his inefficient measures. In 1599, indeed, James was
again obliged to enter into collision with the clergy. Some English players,
coming to the metropolis, obtained the king's license to amuse the citizens.
The ministers of Edinburgh presbytery opposed, with their usual violence, the
acting of plays, as positively sinful ; but they were now convened before the
privy council for opposing the king's license, and were obliged to rescind the act
of the presbytery. Thus, the people of Edinburgh were quietly amused, by the
earliest players who had presumed to appear since the reformed clergy had
decided that amusements and sins are the same (c). The convention of the
Estates, which met at Edinburgh on the 10th of December 1599, ordained
that the beginning of the year should be changed from the 25th of March to
the 1st of January 1600 {d).

The year 1600 is not only remarkable for that diplomatic change, but will
always be memorable, both in the history of Scotland and its capital, for what
has been called Gowries Conspiracy. ^^ Early on the 5th of August, James VI.,

(a) Maitland, 53-4.

{h) Birrel's Diary, 4.3 ; Calderwood, 402. On the 13th of April 1597, the king was again
entertained by the city; and on the •21st of the same month the four guilty ministers were
admittted to malie their submissions, and were afterward pardoned. Calderwood, 411-lG ;
BiiTel's Diary, 43.

(c) Spottiswoode, 457 ; an Apology for the Believers in the Shakspeare Papers. At a convention
which assembled at Edinburgh on the 24th of June 1598, it was ordained that every Monday in every
week should be aphii/.daij. Moyse's Mem., 2fi0.

(d) lb., 264. * [See Barbe's " The Tragedy of Gowrie House," Paisley, 1888.]

Secl.Vl.— Its Civil ffistory.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. C81

preparing to hunt in his park of Falkland, was Invited by the Earl of Gowrie
to his house at Perth, where the king was seized, with whatever purpose of
imprisonment or death ; but he was rescued by his attendants, who slew
the Earl and his brother, and overpowered their followers (e). A sermon was
pi-eached at the cross of Edinburgh, where the people, on their knees, gave
thanks to God for the king's deliverance {/). The king soon after arrived,
and publicly confirmed the whole circumstances of that remarkable event. The
fact was believed by every one at Edinburgh except the clergy. The ministers,
and particularly Mr. Robert Bruce, who was then deemed the great oracle,
were altogether incredulous ; yea, after the truth and circumstances were
testified by five hundred gentlemen who were present, and saw with their eyes
the form and manner of that treasonable practice (g). One would suppose,
from this singular incredulity of the ministers, that the clergy had some con-
nection with the conspiracy. On whatever motive they acted, whether of guilt,
or obstinacy, or self-conceit, the five ministers of Edinburgh were banished, by
proclamation at the cross, and were prohibited from preaching, or coming
within ten miles of the king's residence, on pain of death, for disbelieving what
the king had publicly affirmed (h). The dead bodies of the Earl' of Gowrie

(e) See the Discourse on that conspiracy, with the Depositions annexed to it, in Moyse's Mem., 265.
Birrel's Diary. 49. On the morrow news came to Edinburgh of the king's escape, whereupon
there was great rejoicing ; " the cannons shot, the bells rang, the tnimpets sounded, and the
drums beat." Id.

(/) Moyse's Mem., 309.

{ffj Moyse's Mem., 309. On the 10th of September, however, three of those five ministers came
into the privy council, and declared their belief of the conspiracy. On the nest day a fourth minister
declared his conviction of the truth of Gowrie's conspiracy ; and these four were pardoned for their
stepticisni on so plain a point. Eobert Bruce alone remained obstinately incredulous ; and being
banished from Scotland, went to France. Spottiswoode, 462. They did not believe twenty witnesses,
who swore to the simplest facts. The motive of Gowrie and his design, when he inveigled the king to
Perth, can only be conjectured from the context of the History of Scotland, which contains similar
events. That Gowrie meant treason is obvious.

(b) Birrel's Diary, 51. There was published at the time a written declaration of the king, with
depositions, for the satisfaction of the people. Gowrie and his brother were attainted by parliament
after the examination of witnesses ; yet did the reformed clergy, with a party in Scotland, disbelieve
the truth of an obvious conspiracy. During the reign of Anne, the Earl of Cromarty, the Lord
Register, published from the Record, twenty depositions of the most respectable men, including the
Duke of Lennox, who proved the simplest facts. Yet, in our own times, the late Dr. Robertson, the
king's historiographer, and Lord Hailes, one of the senators of the College of Justice, entertained
strange scruples about the Gowrie conspiracy ; such is the lamentable effect of early prejudice, which
prevented two such persons from sitting down, like men of .skill, to satisfy themselves about so obvious

682 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edinburfjh.'<hire.

and his brother were brought from Perth to Edinburgh, and were hung up at
the market cross as traitors, according to the coarse practice of the Scottish
jurisprudence (i). The king had now escaped from the conspiracy of Gowrie
and the incredulity of the clergy ; nor is it easy to decide whether the treason
of the one, or the scepticism of the others, or the scruples of historians, be the
most absurd. After this storm, which was so common in the climate of
Scotland, James VI. enjoyed some trancjuil years, with the secret correspon-
dence of Elizabeth's ministers, who saw her age approaching to its end, and the
king advancing to her throne.

At length the English queen demised, at the period of life, on the 24th
of March 1603. The Scottish king was, on the same day, proclaimed her
successor, upon the same title which had been denied to his mother, through
whom he had derived his right. Many messengers hastened to Edinburgh with
the welcome news. On the 31st of March 1603, the nobility came to the
cross of Edinburgh, with the Secretary, Elphinston, who read the proclamation
of those great events ; and Sir David Lindsay, the Lion King, re-echoed it (k).
The whole commons of Scotland, who could read, now busied themselves in
explaining how many of the prophecies, since the ancient times of Thomas
Rymer, were at length fulfilled by the accession of James to the English crown (Z).
Amidst the popular regret for the king's departure, there were others, how-
ever, of a graver cast, who foresaw, from the absence of the court and the
receding of the nobles, that Edinburgh was doomed to a long debility, though
it might enjoy greater quiet, from the absence of i^olitical intrigue.

an historical truth. Lord Hailes republished. the king's declaration, with notes, in order to discredit
it, however supported by depositions ; and he solicited more evidence to illustrate this obscure passage
in the Scottish history.

(t) Moyse's Mem., 309. They were attainted by parliament in November 1600. See the trial in
Arnot's Crim. Trials, 20-44.

{k) Birrel's Diary, 58 : On Sunday, the 3rd of April 1603, the king came to the gi-eat kirk of
Edinburgh, where he harangued the people in presence of the noblemen of England. He promised
to defend the faith, and to revisit his native kingdom every three years. On the 5th of April the
king set out from Edinburgh for Berwick and for London, the mighty metropohs of his new
dominions.

(/) Birrel's Diary, 59, delights to tell what is so illustrative of the political superstition of the times.
On the 15th of March 1603, the king granted to the city of Edinburgh a charter, confirming the grants
of his predecessors. Mait. Edin., 240-57. On the 5th of July 1603, the king's charter was read and
received at the Cross of Edinburgh by Alexander Seyton, the provost, and the magistrates, in the
presence of most of the Lords of Session. Birrel's Diary, 60.

Sect. VI,— /te Civil History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 683

At that epoch, and during some years thereafter, Edinburgh, in common
with other Scottish towns, was greatly distressed by the frequent recurrence of
the plague, which swept away many citizens and reduced the survivors to great
penury {m). Amidst his EngHsh cares, James seems to have been studious how
to prevent the interposition of the nobles in the politics of his burghs ; and
in September 1608, he wrote the magistrates of Edinburgh, to recollect, in their
choice of a provost, that none could be chosen, according to a salutary law,
but a real citizen {n). He appears, however, at the same time, to have been
equally attentive to the usual gratifications of exterior appearances. He em-
powered the corporation to cause a sword to be carried before the provost, and
the magistrates to wear gowns (o). Before this reign, there seems to have been
little attention paid, by any order in the state, to exterior ornaments on public
occasions (p).

James at length resolved to perform the promise which, in the fulness of
his heart, he had made when he set out from Edinburgh for London, of
frequently returning to liis native kingdom. The magistrates of Edinburgh gave
orders to make preparations for his reception [q). On the 16th of May 1616,
the king, arriving at the West Port, was received by the magistrates in their
gowns, and by some citizens in velvet habits. Hay, the town clerk, made him
an oration, in such eloquent terms as the times aftbrded. On that happy day
of their new birth, the orator acknowledged the goodness of the Almighty in
allowing their eyes to behold the greatest felicity of their hearts, which is to
feed on the royal countenance of their true phoenix, the bright star of their
northern firmament, the ornament of their age ; and who could witness, he

(rii) Mait. Edin., 567.

(»() 1535, ch. 26 ; Mait. Edin., 57. In the parliament of 1606, an Act was passed in favour
of Edinburgh. Unprinted Acts, No. 14. During that session, indeed, a general Act was made
in favour of the whole burroughs regal, confirming their usual privileges and liberties. 1606, ch. 16.
And this gratifying Act was followed by another law for preventing unlawful conventions within
towns and enforcing the authority of the magistrates in the execution of their offices.
1606 ch. 17.

(o) Maitl. Edin., 58. With his usual attention to petty objects, James sent the magistrates two
pattern gowns from London. Id. All this while the king seems to have been indebted to the cor-
poration of Edinburgh 59,000 marks, which he seems to tave discharged in 1616, by a sort of
bankruptcy, for 20,000 marks. Id.

(jj) At the ranking of the peers, according to their precedence in 1606, they were required to
appear in parliament in robes of red, lined with white : the like was never seen in this country before,
saith Birrel. Diary, 63. Balfour's Annals, i., 407, concur that those were the first parliament robes
that were ever used in Scotland. James II. had tried to introduce such robes.

(5) Maitl. Edin., 58.

C84 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y .—Edinbunjhshire.

adds, youi- majesty's beneficence, more than this good town of Edinburgh,
which, being founded m the days of that worthy king, Fergus I., the builder of
this kingdom, and enriched by him with many freedoms, privileges, and
dignities, which your majesty not only confirmed, but also, with the accession of
many more, endowed. But of Fergus I., who never reigned, and of James VI.,
who visited Scotland to little purpose, enough {x) ! The citizens entertained
the king with a sumptuous banquet, and presented him with what was of still
more importance, with ten thousand marks of double golden angels in a silver
basin. But what magnificeirce could be shown by a town whose streets were
not yet paved, and the houses whereof were covered with thatch [y) ? The king
convened his two-and-tvventieth parliament at Edinburgh, on the 28th of June
1617. Acts were now passed "for the election of archbishops and bishops;"
" for the restitution of chapters." Commissioners were also appointed " for the
plantation of kirks." Several statutes on material points of domestic economy
were also enacted ; and provision was made for the better support of Edin-
burgh castle (2). The king returned to London on the 15th September 1617,
after pi'esiding at a scholastic disputation of the professors of Edinburgh uni-
versity. He died at Theobalds, on the 27th of March 1625 ; and on the
subsequent Sunday, the ministers of Edinburgh, who had now learned a lesson
of flattery from the town clerk, praised him in their sermons as the most reli-
gious and peaceable prince that ever was in this unworthy world (a).

Charles I. was proclaimed at the market cross of Edinburgh, by the officers
of state, on the 31st of March 1625. A convention was convened at Edin-
burgh in October and November 1625 ; but their proceedings are as obscure as
their authority is questionable. The town council of Edinburgh agreed to
advance to the king the assessment of that city, and to contribute to the main-
tenance of ten thousand men, at the same time providing for the city guard
and for the discipline of the whole citizens (6).

(j-) The absurd flattery of tlie town clerk is transcribed into Maitland's Edinburgh, 58-60.

{y) The town council ordered several ways to be paved in 1612, which is the epoch of the paving
of the road to-Leith. Maitl. Edin., 58, An Act of Parliament, in 1621, directed that the houses of
Edinburgh should be covered with slates, lead, tyles, or thackestoue. 1621, ch. 26. A thousand
nuisances were ordered to be removed by another Act of the same session. Ch. 29. Three bells were
provided for the churches in November 1621. Maitl. Edin., 62. And water was introduced under a
law of the same year. A nightly guard of citizens was provided in 1625, Id.

(i) Unprinted Act of that session. (a) Caldeiwood, 815.

(A) Maitl. Edin., 62-3.

Sect. YI.—Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 685

As early as 1628, Charles I. seems to have designed to enter Edinburgh and
to receive his crown. The citizens made great ^^reparations to receive their
sovereign with splendid ceremonies ; and Drummond, the poet, prepared a
speech for that joyous occasion, which may vie with the oration of Hay, the
town clerk, in honest zeal, inflated eloquence, and absurd adulation. But the
king was disappointed in his purpose of visiting Scotland during sevei'al years.
It was on the 12th of June 1633 that Charles entered Edinburgh by the West
Port, where he was received by the provost and bailies in red furred gowns,
and by three score councillors in velvet dresses. The reception of Charles I.
was certainly more splendid, and undoubtedly more proper, than the plainer
reception of James VI., which seems to intimate more wealth in the citizens
and more tastefulness in Drummond the poet (e). On the morrow, the king
passed from the palace of Holyrood to Edinburgli castle. From thence he
returned on the following day to Holyrood palace, and on the 18th of June
1633, was Chai-les I. crowned in the abbey church of Holyrood, with un-
Avonted ceremonies and perhaps unexampled splendour [d). In the official
language of that age, the coronation of the king was called giving him his
crown.

On 20th of June 1633, Charles I. assembled his first parliament of Scotland in
the Tolhooth of Edinburgh, the appropriate place of such meetings in recent reigns.
Every privilege of every body was now ratified, and every right of every person
was at the same time confirmed (e). In perusing the statutes of that session, one
can hardly suppose that a single grievance existed in a hajspy land. Yet no
conclusion could be more fallacious. A thousand jealousies existed, and many

(c) Spalding, in his history of the Troubles iu Scotland, p. 20, gives the most minute account
of the ceremonial on that joyous occasion. Maitl. Edin. 63-4. In the same book, we may see
the learned puerilities of Drummond, the best poet of a sterile age. His pageant exhibits :
Caledonia's Speech ; the Muses Song ; Endymion's Speech ; Saturn's Speech ; Jove's Speech ; the
Sun's Speech ; the Speech of Venus ; Mercury's Speech ; the Speech of the Moon ; Endymion's
Speech :

" Whenever Fame abroad his praise shall ring.
All shall observe and serve this blessed king."
How he was served needs not be told.

(d) See Spalding, as above, for much curious detail.

(e) The acts concerning religion were confirmed. There were ratifications of the College of Justice •
there was a ratification of the privileges of the royal burghs ; there was a general ratification of the
rights of the whole people ; and the interest of money was reduced from ten to eight per cent.,
though the king was to enjoy for some years two per cent, of the reduced interest. See Table of the
printed Acts.

4 4 S

686 An ACCOUNT ICh.Y— Edinburghshire.

fears were propagated ; while the people's minds were prepared to receive every
imputation and to listen to every suggestion. This seems to be the first time
that we hear of any direct attack made on the authority of the three Estates.
It was given out that the parliament itself had been packed, that votes were
bought, that voices were not truly numbered, and that some acts were passed
without a plurality of suffrages {/) ; but it is not easy to discover at present
what could be the statutes wliich were obtained by such ignominious means {g).
Charles I. had scarcely retired from Edinburgh when those discontents were
openly avowed. In 1634, the Town Council of Edinburgh applied to the king
for a charter empowering the inhabitants to form themselves into several
companies of militia. They were desired to form their companies so as to show
their intentions (h). Whatever may have been the king's distrust in 1636
he gave a charter to the city of Edinburgh, confirming all the privileges which
had been granted by his progenitors (i).

Meantime Charles I., without adverting how much the current of popular
opinion ran in Scotland against any thing episcopal, in 1G33 established the
episcopate of Edinburgh and a liturgy for the Scottish church. The Service
Book owed its origin to James I., which was approved by the assembly of
1616. From that period, the English liturgy was used in the chapel royal of
Holyroodhouse, in some of the cathedral churches, and even in the new college
of St. Andrews, though without apparent discontent. But there had been a
great progress of dislike in the intervenient period; and when the Service Book,
which was chiefly copied from that of England, was read in St. Giles's

(/) See the king's large declaration of 1639.

[g) We may remark, indeed, that the statutes which were made confiraiing the rights of the
reformed kirk, were not hitherto well received by the clergy, as they seemed to think their rights
to have been derived from some higher source than the highest temporal power. The Scottish
clergy never considered their privileges as safe while episcopacy of the most limited sort existed
in the land. They constantly endeavoured to gain many parti zans. particularly at the fasts,
which they held four times a-year. Previous to the meeting of the parliament in lG3o, they resolved
to present a petition to the king and parliament for a redress of all their grievances, real and
pretended. The Earl of Eothes, on the same day that the king made his entry into Edinburgh,
waited on Charles I. at Dalkeith, with their petition. The king, having read the petition,
returned it to Rothes, saying, No more of this, I command you. To this source may be traced up
the calumnies which were propagated of that parliament, and the discontent which ensued, though so
many rights were confirmed. The conferring of new titles on some nobles, made these ungrateful and
many discontented. Add to all those causes of discontent, the resumption, which the king had made
early in his reign, of the improvident or illegal grants of his predecessors, a measure that generally
gave great offence, however legal it might be.

(h) Maitl. Edin. 285. [i) lb. 257-68.

Sect. Yl.—Tts Civil Histoivj.} OfNORTH-BEITAIN. G87

church at Edinburgh, a tumult ensued (k). In October 1(537, a great con-
course of people, of every rank, resorted to Edinburgh to avow their discontent,
and declare their opposition to the Service Book. A. proclamation commanding
them to disperse was issued in vain. A fresh tumult ensued, which was
followed by a second proclamation, with as little effect. The Privy Council
and the Court of Session now removed from Edinburgh to Linlithgow. This
measure was followed by a still greater tumult (l). In December 1G37, a pro-
clamation was made at Edinburgh that it was not the king's intention to make
any alteration in religion (m) ; yet, was not the Service Book even now
relinquished as untenable (n).

During the subsequent year discontent was animated into rebellion. On the
21st of February 1638, the cross of Edinburgh was covered in state, and a
proclamation made from it, prohibiting opposition to the Book of Common
Prayer (o). Against this prohibition a public protest was made, with equal
solemnity. There thus appears a wonderful infatuation that Charles I. should
risk a kingdom for such an object ; and that the Scottish people should
hazard a civil war to avoid a Service Book. Yet, a convocation of people
was now made at Edinburgh to oppose it. This measure was met by a
fresh proclamation, and the covenant was at length renewed, in the Gray
Friars churchyard ( j))- The magistrates of Edinburgh now ordered the citizens
to prepare themselves for war (q), and the covenanters also made military pre-
parations, as if civil war were a slight evil. At length, on the 22d of September
1638, a proclamation was made, at the cross of Edinburgh, relinquishing the
Service Book, the Book of Canons, and the high commission (}'). Such a measure
might have prevented hostilities had it been taken a twelvemonth sooner.
Edinburgh castle became, at length, a great object with both parties. The
covenanters beleaguered it in December 1638. The town council concurred
with them, by i-aising five hundred men, and voting £50,000 of Scots money
for their maintenance (s). The covenanters now took the king's house of

(/fc) Maitl. Edin. 71-2 ; Arnot, 107-9. (I) Maitl. Edin. 73 : Ainot's Edin. 110.

(m) Spalding, i. 59-60-61.

(«) The king was studious to inform his people, in his large declaration, 1639, that religion was
only pretended, as a palliation of the intended rebellion ; as the seeds of sedition had been sown by
the covenanters long before any religious gi'ievances were heard of among them.

(o) Spalding, i. 63-4. (;)) Maitl. 75 ; Arnot, 113 ; Spalding, i. 68.

{</) Maitl. 81. (»■) Spalding, i. 83.

(s) Id. 84 ; Maitl. 82-3-4. The castle being unprovided with provisions, surrendered on the 21st of
March 1639, after a slight assault.

688 A N xl C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

Dalkeith, where they found the regalia, which they carried to Edinburgh castle,
and many arms and much ammunition, that they appropriated to the uses of
war ; and they now fortified Leith against an expected armament (u). The
Marquis of Hamilton, who like his fathers, saw some interest in such com-
motions, came into the Foi-th with a fleet and army which he had no purpose
to employ ; and the pacification was made at Bei'wick on the 21st of May 1639,
between the contending parties ; the king to retain, and the clergy to gain the
sovereignty of Scotland. A public thanksgiving was made at Edinburgh, when
a declaration was made that the citizens would adhere to the assembly, though
perhaps without any very specific motive. Edinburgh castle was, on that occa
sion, delivered to the Marquis of Hamilton, as the king's officer. The fortifica-
tions of Leith were demolished, and the arms and ammunition which it contained
were transferred to the castle (x). A proclamation was made at the Cross of
Edinburgh during the existing tranquility, forbidding the use of fire arms,
on pain of death ; but this proclamation was disregarded by those who con-
sidered the present quiet as only a prelude to future war (y). The parliament
which sat at Edinburgh in December 1639, rose amidst mutual criminations
of unconstitutional conduct. The magistrates of Edinburgh, in the meantime,
pretended to deliver the power of governing their town to the committee of
insurrection.

Peace, indeed, could scarcely be preserved, while the minds of men were
so distracted by jealousies and fears, and the officers of state were egregiously
corrupt (s). With the year 1640, began fresh preparations for inveterate war (a).
In March, the magistrates of Edinburgh raised fortifications to defend the town
against the castle ; exercised the citizens in arms ; and appointed a guard during
the night. Ruthen, the governor of the castle, remonstrated in vain. They
continued their hostile demonstrations, and he fired upon the town from the
castle. Lesley, the Scottish general, after mustering his army at Leith, invested
the castle, which resisted his efforts ; and at leng-th the governor of the

(«) Arnot, 121. (x) Spalding, i. 184-5. (/?) Spalding, i, 195.

(z) See the king's declaration of the year 1640, for an exposition of his motives, which show,
that scarcely any of the stipulations of the treaty of Berwick had been executed by his
opponents.

(a) The insurgent nobles applied to the French king for assistance. Their letter is printed in the
king's Declaration KilO, and was laid before the English parliament. In the meantime, the popular
leaders in England, by various intrigues, urged the Scottish insurgents to persevere in their preten-
sions. Professor Mackav's MS. Collections.

Sect, yi.—ns Civil History.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 689

castle capitulated for want of provisions (6). The war of 1640, between
vigour and irresolution, was carried on without success by the king's officers ;
and further hostilities were prevented by the treaty of Ripon, on the 2nd of
September 1640, which was confirmed at London, and which left the king
little more than a choice of difficulties.

Charles I. came to Edinburgh, for a second time, on the 14th of August
1G41, " to perfect, as he said, what he had promised, and to quiet distraction
for the people's satisfaction (c)." But as he attempted impossibilities, he
came only to see his friends prosecuted, and to reward his enemies. He con-
sented to the various parliamentary proceedings which changed the constitution
from limited monarchy to unrestrained democracy ; and he agreed to an act
of oblivion, which saved harmless the successful insui'gents, and delivered his
unfortunate supporters to several punishments {d). On the 1 7th of November
1641, he departed from this disgraceful scene at Edinburgh, to meet fresh mor-
tifications at London {e). A committee of the Estates continued to sit at
Edinburgh, to domineer over all under the pretence of government.

Edinburgh, as it was the capital of the kingdom, continued to be the great
seat of fanaticEil insurrection. The magistrates of this city were induced by their
prepossessions to adhere to the covenant, and were carried forward by their
prejudices to raise a regiment of twelve hundred men, which cost them nearly
£60,000 Scottish money (_/). A new covenant was made at Edinburgh, in
October 1643, which was sworn to In St. Giles's church (</). In March 1545,
the plague superadded its desolations to the waste of civil war. Happily, this
pestilence, which then joined its ravages to the delusions of fanaticism, was the
last that afflicted this wretched city {h).

Meantime, a parliament, like the unwarrantable convention of 1560, convened
at Edinburgh on the 8th of January 1645, without any representation of the

(J) Spalding, i., 214—260-1. (c) Spalding, i., 218-19.

(d) See the statutes of tlae session 1640-1. (e) Spalding, i., 335-G.

(/) Maitl. Edin., 110. The raising of those men was designed to carry into effect the treaty
between the English parliament and the Scottish, that the Scots should furnish 21,000 men to
England, at the rate of £21,000 sterling a month. The popular factions of the two kingdoms were
now playing into one another's hands the game of fanatical folly. The English faction had enabled
the Scottish to outfight and overreach Charles I. ; and the Scottish faction was now in the act of
enabling the English to overreach and overcome the same deluded prince. The practices of both
ended in what might have been foreseen, if prejudice had not overpowered the wisest minds, in the
tyranny of a protector.

{g) Arnot, 125 : Maitl., 282. (//) Maitl, Edin., 85-6 ; Arnot, 259.

690 AnACCOUNT ' [Ch. N .—Edinbur<jhshire.

king, but with the Earl of Lauderdale for its president, the same earl who
acted as the dictator of Scotland in the subsequent reign. Five committees sat
daily at Edinburgh. This activity of legislation produced an excise on almost
every article of consumption. The murmurs of the citizens, as they were heard
without feeling by the magistrates, broke out into tumult. But the clergy
convinced them that their present and future happiness was the object of this
excise, which was perceived to be new, and was felt to be oppressive (/).

Yet the citizens had merited their sufferings, from their misconduct through-
out so many years. Edinburgh, from this period, partook, with the national
councils, of the scandal arising from the sale of the king for money, of his
subsequent murder, and of the subjugation of the state {k). After that violent
demise of the tarnished diadem, the city of Edinburgh joined in what was called
the national engagement in favour of Charles II. In the j)lace of the quota of
twelve hundred men, which the citizens ought to have raised, they agreed to
give £40,000 Scottish money. Yet were they obliged to borrow it, so ex-
hausted were their means. They afterward endeavoured to avoid this debt
by pleading the unlawfulness of such an engagement. They consulted the
assembly of divines, who supported their scruples, as the money had been
borrowed for an uncovenanted purpose. Yet were they compelled by a new
power, in December 1652, at the suit of their creditors, to fulfil their contract,
which the English judges deemed just, and the Scottish clergy unlawful. Such

(i) Amot, 12-2 ; Spalding, ii., 265-7.

(k) The Scottish army, on the 30th January 1646-7, in consideration of £400,000, delivered the
king to the English commissioners. This was confirmed by an act of the state, some of the
statemen sharing largely in those wages of villany. In vain did the committee of the Estates send
Lothian, Cheiselie, and Glendoning, to London, in December 1648, to care for the state. Li
vain did those commissioners give in a futile protestation against taking away the king's life. In vain
did the assembly of the kirk give in a testimony to the same effect. The state and church were
both declared to be useless, and their conduct offensive ; and they soon received from their com-
missioners at London, the following result of their absurd mission, as appears from Mr. Professor
Mackay's MS. :

" Eight reverend and Honourable. This day, about two of the clock in the afternoon, his majesty
" was brought out at the window of the balcony of the banqueting-house of Whitehall, near which a
" stage was set up, and his head was struck off with an axe ; wherewith we hold it our duty to infonn
" you ; and so being in haste, we shall say no more at this time, but that we remain, your most affec-
" tionate friends. Lothian. — Jo. Cheiselie. — Eo. Blair."

Covent Garden,

30th January 1649

n, )
349.;

Sect. Yl.—rts Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 691

mental confusion had arisen, from the absurd casuistry of poUtical and religious
anarchy during so many wretched years (I).

The public affairs of a ruined people had now become quite inextricable, from
the discordant opinions and profligate conduct of so many clergy and nobles.
Wanting a pageant, they invited Charles II. to become their covenanted king ;
and, on the 15th of July 1650, was he proclaimed king at the cross of Edin-
burgh (m). But a very different personage was now at hand, who established
the quiet of Scotland by the unhallowed means of its subjugation. Cromwell
passed the Tweed on the 22d of July 1650, and, marching forward through
Lothian, encamped on the Pentland ridge above Edinburgh. The Scottish army
then lay at Corstorphine, under Lesley ; but they soon moved to a more secure
position, between Edinburgh and Leith, where they entrenched themselves,
protected on either flank by the batteries on Calton hill and by the fortifica-
tions of Leith, Cromwell, finding this camp to be impregnable, while the
caution of Lesley allowed him no advantage, retii-ed first to Musselburgh, and
afterward retreated to Dunbar. By knowing the country, Lesley was enabled to
seize the passes of the Laramermuir before Cromwell could pass their defiles.
On the 3d of September 1650, however, the ecclesiastical commissaries attending
the Scottish ai-my, by obliging Lesley to leave his strong position, and to fight
a doubtful field, delivered the Scottish army into Cromwell's hands. Edinburgh
was now subdued by its own fears, and was left by the magistrates without a
government (n). On the 7th of the same month Cromwell took possession of
Leith and Edinburgh, invested the castle, and seized the fortlets of Boslin
and Borthwick ; and at the end of three months, Edinburgh castle surrendered
by capitulation (o). At the expiration of fifteen months' absence, the town
council resumed the government from those citizens who had ruled pru-
dently during the necessary inattention of the constituted authorities. They
probably found leisure, during their flight, to reflect how much, by their own
follies, they had contributed to the conquest of their city and the subjugation of
the kingdom.

(I) The historians of Edinburgh speak with indignation ot the dishonesty of the citizens and
the knavery of the clergy. Maitl. Edin. 87-91 ; Arnot, 123. In a statement of the debts of the
city, in 1690, the above debt of £40,000 was charged £60,000. While the magistrates were pre-
paring to receive Charles II., they went out, accompanied by the hangman, to introduce the great
Montrose, who was executed at their cross with every circumstance of brutal exultation. Arnot,
129-30-1.

(m) On the arrival of Charles II., in pursuance of the negotiation at Breda, the city of Edinburgh
presented him with £20,000 Scots. Maitl. Edin. 110.

{n) Maitl. Edin. 89. (o) Arnot, 135 ; Heath's Chron. 280.

692 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edinbuiyhshire.

The Eno-lish commissioners for ruling Scotland arrived at Dalkeith in
January 1652, and the citizens found it necessary to ask their consent,
before they chose their own magistrates ; so fallen were they, after dictating to
their legitimate sovereign, and after feeling the humiliation of conquest (p). As
they were now freed from the domination of the clei'gy, and were not oppressed
■ bv Cromwell, who had other objects, the citizens enjoyed more quiet, as well
as secui'ity, than they had possessed for many a wretched year of covenanted
domination. They saw, however, English people settle at Leith, under the
encouragement of Cromwell, who here built a citadel at a great expense {q).
Scotland now enjoyed unusual quiet, under the strong arm of positive conquest,
by her ancient adversaries. The clergy were at length restrained from their
accustomed calumnies. Justice was equally administered by strangei-s, who did
not enter into party connections with which they were unacquainted. And
the whole people began to breathe, after such terrible agitations ; their minds
being freed from the tyranny of the clergy ; their persons being secured from
the outrages of faction ; and their estates being safe from exactions beyond
their abilities. So completely had the nation been exhausted by so many
efforts which were beyond its powers, there was scarcely a person or a
community in that kingdom which could pay their debts. The city of Edin-
burgh owed £55,000 sterling, which it was unable to satisfy. Such was the
debilitated state of Scotland, when Monk marched, in December 1559, into
England, with perhaps no very predetermined design, though he undoubtedly
meant well.

The conquest of Scotland, and its union with England, had scarcely left it
any constituted authorities, who could concur in the meditated Restoration.
After the two houses of parliament in England had determined to settle the civil
government in the ancient channel, the town council of Edinburgh addressed a
letter to the king, on the 11th of May 1660, which was signed by Sir James
Stewart, the lord j^rovost. The citizens lament that the iniquity of the times
had so long prevented them from tendering their faithful service ; they declared
their concun-ence with those who had prudently laid themselves out to settle
the king upon the thi'one of his dominions ; and they rejoiced tliat they might
now expect, from their lawful prince, a redress of those grievances under
which they had so long fainted (r). Thomson, the town clerk of Edinburgh, was

(p) Maitl. Edin. 89. (7) Maitl. Edin. 91-6.

(r) From their feelings, tliey assured the king that, " the land had been impoverished, sub-
dued, and kept in bondage, by that party who hath invaded us upon the account of adhering

Sect. VI.— /fe Civil Histori/.} 0 f N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. 093

the only authorized person who waited on the king from Scotland. He was
received with the most gracious acceptance. He appears to have had some
authority on that occasion from the royal hurghs, in whose name he presented
" a poor myte of a thousand poundss terling (s)," which yet was one-tenth of the
city of London's gift. So great was the joy at Edinburgh when the citizens heard
of the king's arrival in England, that they caused a sumptuous banquet to be
made at their market cross. The king was so pleased with all those attentions,
that he ratified some of their old privileges, and promised a confirmation of
their several rights (t) ; but it was not till the 22d of August 1660, that the
king abolished the English tribunals in Scotland {u), re-established its ancient
forms of government, appointed tlie officers of state, and directed a parliament
to meet at Edinburgh, to whom he referred the preparing of an act of indem-
nity, to save from legal penalties a guilty nation. The keeping of Christmas at
Edinburgh by persons of all degrees, except a few ministers, was deemed a
pi'oof of the renovation of rationality over fanaticism (x).

The parliament assembled at Edinburgh on the 1st of January 1661, under
Lord Middleton, as the king's commissioner. The constitution was now
restored with the king's legal authority. The public transactions during the
last three-and-twenty years were reprobated as grossly unwarrantable. The
acts of the seven parliaments, which sat from 1640 to 1648, were rescinded as
unconstitutional in their commencements and violent in their proceedings.

to your raajesty, the true religion established among us hath been exposed to hazard by the deluges
of error and division, for which a door was kept open by that power which held us under." Yet, the
magistrates of Edinburgh had concurred very zealously in the factious follies, which, during three-
and-twenty years, had involved the country in desolation, and drenched it in blood. Nor is it easy to
find a single person of any consequence in Scotland who can fairly be considered as guiltless of the
ruin of their country, so general were the delusions of the covenant ; all but the doctors of Aberdeen,
who are so emphatically commended by Clarendon for the superiority of their learning, and the firm-
ness of their spirit.

(«) Sir William Lower, in his relation of the king's proceedings in Holland, from the 25th of
May to the 2d of June 1660, does not notice the town clerk's acceptance with the king; nor,
indeed, the approach of any person from Scotland, though the Earl of Lauderdale is said to have
repaired to the king soon after he was discharged from his imprisonment. Lauderdale was, in
consequence, appointed Secretary of State for Scotland. On the 3d of March 1660, the Earls of
Crawford, Lauderdale, and Lord Sinclair, were released from their imprisonment in Windsor
castle.

(<) Maitl. Edin. 96-7.

{ti) Law and government were never better administered in Scotland than by those English
Tribunals.

(v) The Kingdom's Intelligencer, No. 1.

4 4T

694 AnACCOUNT [Oh. V Edinbmyhshire.

The motive which was assigned by the parhament for annulling the trans-
actions of so many parliamentary meetings, was " that all the miseries which
"this kingdom had groaned under during three-and-twenty years, were the
" necessai-y consequences of the invasions by pretending reformation, (the
" common cloak, say the pai'liament, of all rebellions), on the royal autho-
"rity {y). Such, then, was the sober opinion of the Scottish legislators at
the end of more than twenty years of innovation and fanaticism, of warfare
and conquest, when they had learned wisdom in the school of adversity.
The parliament, at this sitting, passed various laws of domestic economy,
which tended to employ the people after so many years of idleness (2) ; and
the Estates settled a revenue on the king during his life, for the necessary
charge of his Scottish government, whereof the town and county of Edinbui-gh
raised a sixth (a). In that first parliament of Charles II., there passed an act
ratifying to Edinburgh its new charter of confinuation, its power of regality
over the Canongate, and its customs, which were collected at the toll-house in
in the moor (h).

The parliament again assembled at Edinburgh on the 8th of May 1662.
The practices of late times appear to have dictated almost all the laws of this
parliament. The ancient government of the church by archbishops and
bishops was now re-established (c). An act was passed for preserving the
king's person and authority, wherein the late leagues and covenants were
censured as immoral, and nullified as illegal {d). A declaration of fidelity

( y) See the statutes of the first ParL Charles 11.

(^) See the several statutes among the acts of this session.

(«) Of that sum, Edinburgh, the Canongate, and Leith, raised £3,732 ; Edinburgh county
£2,660 ; which amounted to £6,392, whereof the town raised a tenth. In 1663, the parliament
settled the proportions of the excise for three months. Of the whole £29,325 16s., the shire of
Edinburgh was to pay £2,140; and the town £2,923; and thus again the town paid o«(! <(;«rt of
the whole, and the shire more than one sixth. In 1 667, the convention of estates gave a voluntary
aid of £72,000 a-month ; which were assessed on the 33 shires at £60,000, and the 62 burghs at
£12,000; the town of Edinburgh at £5,320; being much more than one third of -the whole
burghs, and the shire of Edinburgh, at £3,183 8s. In 1663, the parliament made a voluntary
offer of 20.000 infantry and 2,000 cavalry ; whereof Edinburghshire furnished 800 infantry and 74
cavalry ; and Edinburgh and Leith furnished 800 infantry. In these proportions of men, the counties
of Haddington and Berwick were equal to Edinburghshire, though they were much below it in the
supplies of money.

(b) Unprinted Acts. (c) Act, No. 1.

((/) lb. No. 2. The proceedings of the Glasgow assembly in 1638, were specifically annulled as sedi-
tious and unlawful.

Sect. Yl.~Tts Civil History.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N. 69 )

was prescribed to all persons in public trust (e). There was passed the usual act
of revocation, of acts done or rights granted during the king s minority (/) ;
and there was passed an act of pardon and oblivion, with very few excep-
tions, considering the multitude of the guilty and the enormity of the crimes.
But such laws were enacted in vain, when so many persons in Scotland denied
the authority of the temporal legislature, and professed obedience only to their
spiritual superiors.

In this state of men's minds the votaries of the late covenant carried their dis-
contents into insurrection. They disarmed some of the king's troops in Dumfries.
They now marched under such leaders as they could find to Lanark, and
thence proceeded towards Edinburgh. The city was now put into a posture of
defence. The gates were barricaded ; no one was allowed to go out without
a passport ; the neighbouring gentlemen were called in for its protection ; and
the College of Justice armed its members, in su)3port of the law against insur-
gency. The privy council sent General Dalziel to suppress the insurgents.
They were at length encountered by the king's troops at Rullion-Green,
among the Pentland hills, on the 28th of November 1666. Fifty of them were
killed, a hundred and thirty were made prisoners, and the remaining fanatics
were dispersed. On the 7th of December, ten of the rebellious enthusiasts
were executed at Edinburgh, avowing their disobedience to the king and the
laws, and glorying in their fanaticism and fate. Their avowed motive was
adherence to the covenant, in opposition to law, according to tlie maxims which
had come down to them from their fathers, who had been instructed by Knox
in the Genevan principles and practice.

Under such maxims, quiet could not exist within the land, where the law
and the populace stood opposed to each other. As the practice of assassination
had also come down from their fathers to the fanatics, one Mitchel, in attempt-
ing to murder the archbishop in Edinburgh streets, wounded the bishop of
Orkney. After a while he was irregularly tried, and corruptly condemned,
though of bis enormous guilt there could be no doubt. On the day of his
execution, the women of Edinburgh assembled to rescue this odious assassin ;
but he was too powerfully guarded to admit of female deliverance (A).

Throughout this guilty reign, the law and the lower orders constantly opposed
each other. The covenanted ministers and their wretched disciples avowed

(«) Act, No. 5. (/) lb. No. 8. (</) lb. No. 10.

(h) Arnofs- Edin. 148-50; and see the Bnvillac Redivivus of the celebrated Doctor Hickes.

696 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Edinburghshire.

the most dangerous doctrines, and practised the basest actions (i). The rulers
of those infatuated people could find no other measures for restraining
enthusiasm and inducing acquiescence, than the threats of death and the
violences of coercion. The government was thus violent and severe, while the
populace were disobedient and obstinate. A standing army left the metropolis,
in the meantime, no other measures than pliability and subservience (k).

Those anarchical proceedings were not altogether confined to the church.
A schism existed within the College of Justice. During an age when so much
of the law was either unknown or uncertain, It was a litigated point whether
an appeal lay from the Court of Session, which seems to have come In the
place of the judicial power of the parliament, to the king and his estates (l).
The king, upon reviewing the whole matter, and wishing to preserve the
authority of the court, directed the advocates to acquiesce, or to be debarred
from their functions. The advocates refused to acquiesce, and they were
joined by forty other advocates, who deserted the bar, avowing the same
opinions. The contumacious counsellors were now ordered by the privy

(i) In 1681, the government published an impartial account of the confessions of the conspirators,
in order to expose to the world the wild opinions, both as to religion and law, which were avowed and
practised by the deluded followers of the covenanted ministers. On the 5th of May 1684, there was
published a proclamation, with a list of Fugitives, which has been transcribed into Wodrow's App.
No. xciv. It shows, with satisfactory evidence, that the persons who defied the laws and pretended to
dictate to the church, were servants, low tenants, weavers, shoemakers, tailors and other tradesmen ;
but there were among them scarcely any landlords or any persons of the learned professions, and only
a few vagrant preachers, with the women, who were fugitives for receiving the guilty. Men and
^omen of somewhat higher ranks of life may have approved of the covenanted practices, though they
did not think fit to appear openly in the same cause.

(k) The town council gave large sums of money to the profuse and profligate Lauderdale for his
good offices. Mait. Edin., 99. And the king was induced to restore to the citizens the right of choos-
ing their own magistrates, as well as to give them, by charter, additional privileges. Id.

(l) The king's proclamation, dated the 12th of December 1674, flings some light on this obscure
subject, which has been misunderstood by ill-formed history. It recites, that having learned that the
Earl of Aboyne had appealed from the lords of our council and session to Us and our Estates oj parlia-
ment ; and this being a strange and unaccustomed practice, the lords did require the advocates, in this
appeal, to give their oaths whether they had advised such an appeal. But this request the advocates
refused; and instead of justifying that appeal, gave in a paper stating another kind of appeal, having
only the effect of a protestation for remeid of law without sitting process. The court and the advo-
cates wrote to the king justifying their several proceedings. The king decided in favour of the court,
and declined to receive any appeal to him and his Estates ; and he quoted the statute of James II.,
which seems to preclude such appeals ; and he instanced the refusal of the parliament of October 1663,
who refused to review a decision of the court of session. The above proceedings were censured by the
Convention of 1689.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OpNORTH- BRITAIN. 697

council, acting under the king's command, not to remain within twelve miles
of Edinburgh, while they refused obedience to the Court of Session. This
juridical schism would alone show the high passion of the times, if so many
rebellions upon the avowed principle of disregarding the authority of the
king and the laws did not evince the complete anarchy of those terrible times.
The youth adopted some of the principles of the old. At Christmas 1680, the
students of the College resolved to burn the effigy of the pope, in contempt
perhaps of the Duke of York's religion. The magistrates of Edinburgh
interposed, and a timiult ensued. The College was now shut up, and the
students were required to depart twelve miles from this tumultuous city. The
College, however, was soon opened, and the students were again admitted.
Yet is there reason to believe that some of those students set fire to the lord
provost's house of Priestfield (a), and by such an action evinced more malignity
than usually actuates youthful minds.

In the midst of those events, the Duke of York came to Edinburgh during
the year 1679, as a sort of banishment from court. The magistrates entertained
him magnificently. He tried, by eveiy agreeable art, to please and to be
pleased (b). He introduced the drama and other elegant amusements, which,
had they been steadily 2;)ractised, might have been attended with salutary con-
sequences. They would have gradually corrected the sour and sullen temper
of the populace, which positive statute can never correct, and acrimonious edicts
can only increase. But he did not remain at Edinburgh long enough for the
application of such correctives, or to show how much could be efiected by
popular attentions (c).

(a) Arnot's Edin. 392. (*) Mait. Edin., 286-9.

(c) The following dates will exhibit more distinctly than any history, the Duke of York's scanty
intercourse with Edinburgh. On the 27th of October 1679, the duke set out for Scotland. On the
28th of January 1680, the king declared in council that he would send for the duke, finding no good
effects from his absence. On the 24th of February, the duke and duchess came to court. On the 20th
of October 1680, they set out for Scotland. On the 22d of June 1681, the king sent a deputation to
the duke to be his commissioner to the parliament of Scotland. On the 11th of March 1683, the duke
met the king at Newmarket. On the 3d of May 1683, the duke embarked on board the Gloucester
frigate for Scotland ; on the 5 th of May she struck on the sand called the Lemon and Oar ; on the
7th, however, he arrived at Edinburgh ; he changed the ofBcers of state ; and he returned to London
on the 27th of the same month. The privy council, on the 2d of November 1680, thanked the
king for the favour of sending the duke to Scotland. In February of the subsequent year,
amid frost and snow, the duke made an excursion from Edinburgh to Linlithgow, Fal-
kirk, and Stirling ; and he was every where received with welcome, entertainments, and
applause.

698 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

On tlie 28th of August 1681, he held a parliament, in person, at Edinburgh.
The statutes of this session seem to have been dictated by the sad state of the
country. All former laws for the security of the protestant religion were
confirmed. The rig-ht of the succession to the crown was asserted in such
terms as to comprehend the duke, notwithstanding any difference in his
i-eligion. A new supply was voluntarily oftered. An act for securing the
peace of the country was passed, with a view to those unhappy people who
carried up their zeal for the covenant to positive frenzy. This was followed by
an act against assassinations, which were practised and avowed by the same
zealots. But the statute which was attended by the greatest consequences
was the test act, and which imposed an oath so complicated as to be unin-
telligible without much study. Such were the laws enforcing protestantism,
which were now enacted under the papisticcd commissioner. With the excep-
tion of some laws of domestic economy, the statutes of this session show the
statesmen to have been full as fanatical, though in a diHerent extreme, as the
wildest of the populace. It is not to be lamented that the Estates, while
actuated by such a spirit, did not again sit during the present reign.

Of the infelicities of those times, Edinburgh felt its full share. As the seat
of a severe government, and the garrison of a standing army, it was not much
disturbed by tumult ; but it witnessed assassinations, which were openly
committed in its streets ; it beheld a thousand punishments inflicted in its
public places ; and it saw the mangled limbs of the guilty exhibited daily on its
bloody gates (d). At length the town council tried to ingratiate themselves
with the Duke of York, by every mode of adulation, and by every species of
service (e).

Charles II. unexpectedly demised on the 7th of February 1685, the news
whereof reached Edinburgh on the 10th of the same month ; and thereupon
a theatre was erected at the cross of Edinburgh, when the militia were drawn
out ; and at ten o'clock the chancellor, treasurer, and whole officers of state,
with the nobility and privy council, the lords of session, and the magistrates
of Edinburgh, came to the cross with the lion king at arms and his heralds :
the chancellor carried his own purse, and weeping, proclaimed James Duke of
Albany the only undoubted and lawful king of this realm, the clerk register
reading the words of the act, and all of them swore fealty and allegiance to

(d) See Lord Fountainhall's Dec. Index, aiticle, Edinburgh.

(«) See their letters in Maitl. Edin., 104 ; and tliey even voluntarily offered a supply of seven
months assessment for supporting the duke's succession. lb. 105.

Sect. YL— Its Civil History.} OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 699

the new king, whose title was thus pronounced to be undoubted (/). All officers
were continued by the king's proclamation. The castle shot a round of guns,
and a sermon was preached, wherein Mr. John Robert, the preacher, did regret
their loss ; but desired them to dry up their tears, when they looked upon so
brave and excellent a successor (g). The magistrates of Edinburgh transmitted
an address of felicitation, which was graciously received, and obligingly
acknowledged. At that epoch they erected in the Parliament Square the
equestrian statue of Charles II., which still attracts popular admiration (h).

A new parliament was convened at Edinburgh on the 23d of April 1685.
The first act of James's first parliament was a confirmation of all former laws
for the security of the protestant religion as professed in Scotland. The
Estates passed an act of absurd adulation, with an offer of the excise to the
king (i). There were passed also, in that session, some useful laws of domestic
economy, while the recent attainders of various persons were confirmed, in a
rigid tone of vindictive legislation (k).

(/) The Act of Parliament wLich was then read by the clerk register was that of the 3rd Pari.
Cha. II., No. 2, asserting the right of succession to the imperial crown of Scotland, passed on the 1 3th
of August 1681. The above ceremonial of the proclamation of James VII. is transcribed from Lord
Fountainhall, i., 336-9, who was present. His lordship was studious to quote the Institute of Wesem-
becius, who says, coronatio 2'>rincipis non est necessaria. He might have also quoted Sir George
Mackenzie's Observations on the Statutes, 174-5, who insists, that neither a coronation, nor a coronation
oath, are necessary to the king's title. A late writer of history says : " The coronation oath for Scot-
land was declined by James, as repugnant to the religion which he proposed to introduce." But there
was no declinature of what was unnecessary in law, which was correlative with the coronation, that
was itself only a mere ceremony. In his letter, dated the 18th of March 1685, to the Scottish parlia-
ment, the kings says : " We were fully resolved, in person, to have proposed the needful remedies to
you ; but things having so fallen out as render this impossible for us, we have thought fit to send our
cousin and counsellor, William Duke of Queensberry, to be our commissioner among you."
Wodrow, ii., 145.

{g) Fountainhall, i., 339. There was also published soon after an Act oj Indemnity, with some
exceptions. Wodrow, ii., App. No. ciii.

{b) Maitl. Edin., 105. What was of still more importance, the magistrates, at the same time,
directed lights to be hung out for illuminating their inconvenient streets, which were not yet half
paved. The revenues of Edinburgh were exhausted in gratuities to statesmen during an age that had
been corrupted by civil wars.

(i) Stat. Ch. 11, of that session. The parliament passed also an Act of Supply. The religious
state of the country called for several acts against the covenant and conventicles. There was also
passed an Act for the Clergij, in which the king declares his firm resolution to maintain the church in its
present government by archbishops and bishops, and not to endure, or connive at, any derogation from
its rights. In the same spirit the test was enforced by a new law.

(i-) See the unprinted Acts of that session. There was an Act, ' ' ratifying and approving the Earl

TOO An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Edinburghshire.

The statutes of such a pai-liament are the best proofs of the sentiments of the
people. Unhappily, too many of the populace had for years stood opposed to
the legislature and the laws, according to the absurd maxims which had come
down from their fathers to them. Hence, the imprudent invasion by Argyle,
which involved the country in so many troubles, and stained the capital with so
much blood (/).

The epoch of the king's purpose to change the religion of the state in
Scotland by the introduction of popery, notwithstanding so many laws for
supporting protestantism, seems to have been October 1685. His measures of
conversion were at first secret ; but in the progress of proselytism his conduct
became more open. Edinburgh was the cliief scene of his religious follies (in).

of Ai-gyle's forfeiture." When Argyle, on tlie 20tli of June 1685, was paraded through the streets of
Edinburgh to the castle, with his hands bound, his head bare, and with the hangman walking before
him, he was treated as a person attainted by parliament. Historians, who are carried away by their
commiseration, do not advert to that essential circumstance. It throws additional light on the obscure
story of Argyle's conduct, to state that he was indebted to Heriot's Hospital £58,403 10s. Scots money,
which the corporation of Edinburgh was obliged to pay to the hospital. This seems to show that
Argyle was in ruined circumstances. On the 21st of the preceding May, the Countess of Argyle. with
her family, had been committed to Edinburgh Castle ; and several of the burgesses of Edinburgh
were also secured. About the same time, the magistrates of Edinburgh enjoined the citizens to give
in the names of strangers lodging with them, as many disloyal persons were supposed to be harboured
in the town.

(P) They had resolved, saith Lord Fountainhall, to have regimented and armed the College of
Justice, when news came to Edinburgh, on the 9th of June, that Argyle was taken. Dec. i., 364.
The Duke of Monmouth, on the 9th of June 1685, was cited by proclamation at the Cross of Edin-
laurgh, to appear at the criminal court to answer a charge of treason. It must have been for crimes,
saith Fountainhall, posterior to the last king's remission, in December 1683. The fee of Buccleuch,
it was thought, he adds, could not be forfeited for his fault ; as his lady and children had the right,
while he had only his life, in the estate. The invasion of Monmouth was not then known at Edin-
burgh. At Michaelmas 1685, the king nominated Bailie Kennedy to be the provost ; and he was
accordingly admitted. By this we see, saith Fountainhall, i., 370, the king intends to assume the
nomination of the Provost of Edinburgh into his own hands in future, as also of the other considerable
towns in Scotland. Wodrow, ii., 575.

()«) On the 28th of October 1685, a letter came to the bishop of Edinburgh, which was signed by
Secretary Murray, signifying that the king was informed of seditious speeches which had been uttered
in the pulpits of Edinburgh, tending to stir up the people to a dislike of the king or the Popish
religion ; and ordaining the bishop to advert thereto on his peril. The bishop convened his ministers,
and intimated this to them. Fountainhall, i., 371. The fact is, however, that the Duke of Queens-
berry, when he was appointed the king's commissioner to the parliament of April 1685, was instructed
" to suffer nothing to pass to the prejudice of the Roman Catholics, more than was already." lb.,
374. This carries back the king's intentions, with regard to his religion, to a much earlier period, at
least with regard to defensive measures.

Sect. Yl.— Its Civil History.^ OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 701

On the first of the subsequent November, the king's letter was read at the privy
council, dispensing with the test, in favour of some papists who had been named
in the supply act of April 1685. It was pretended that those papists had been
inserted by mistake ; and they were therefore exempted from the test, that
they might act without it. " This seemed a downright derogation from the
act of parliament 1685, and not within the king's power {n)." The dis-
pensing power was thus plainly avowed ; and his pui-pose, not only to protect
the papists from persecution, but to give them power and to encourage
proselytism was apparent. The whole conduct of James VII. on this head, as
he was not defective in understanding, is one of the most singular instances of
absurd delusion which is recorded in any history. The experience of five-and-
twenty years had shown that protestant episcopacy, with every support of law
and government, could scarcely be maintained in Scotland against the pre-
judice of the populace and the practices of fanaticism, which, at that period,
had produced so many odious crimes and so many popular ebulitions. How
hopeless then the endeavour to introduce and support popery in such a
country against law, and in the face of such firm conviction in the wisest
minds. We may thus perceive, also, that religion was the king's great object,
and the dispensing power only a secondary means.

With the opening of the year 1686, the king's design became more apparent.
All order was made by the privy council, directing the stationers of Edinburgh
neither to sell nor print any books reflecting on popery (o). A tumult soon
after ensued in Edinburgh, when to such an order was added the saying of
mass in an open manner, however contraiy to law. The privy council, actuated
by the heat of the new converted chancellor, the Earl of Perth, directed a young
baker, who had acted riotously, to be whipped by the common executioner ;
but he was rescued from the' officer, who was himself insulted by the populace.
The king's guards were now ordered to disperse the rioters, who were tried

(74) Lord Fountainhall's Decisions, i., 374. There was another clause, he adds, " without prejudice
to the king, to dispense with any others he pleased." Id. This letter, he goes on. alarmed some
people, as an evidence that the king intended by degrees to put Papists in the government ;
and which seemed to them clear from his speech to the English parliament on the 9th of November
1685. Id.

(o) Fountainhall, ii., 398. A copy of that order was delivered to every bookseller in Edinburgh.
When it was intimated to James Glen, he informed the messenger of the privy council that he had one
book in his shop which condemned Popery much ; and being asked what book, he said the Bible.
Glen seems to have been a resolute as well as a witty man ; for in such times his tongue ran some risk
of being castrated for such a sarcasm. Id.

4 , 40

702 AnACCOUNT [Ch. V .—Edinburyhshire.

and convicted by the privy council, and were yet afraid to proceed to ex-
tremities. The king said publicly, when all those matters were communicated
to him, that he would support his chancellor ; yet privately blamed the privy
councillors for bringing the practices of his religion too openly before a zealous
people (p). At the criminal court, on the 15th of February 1686, the king's
advocate insisted on the forfeiture of the Duke of Monmouth, who was found
guilty of three points of treason ; for the invasion, for the assumption of the
crown, and for touching persons who were afflicted with the scrofula,
jure coroncB (q).

The king's intentions became every day more apparent (r). The Duke of
Hamilton, the Lord President Lockhart, and General Drummond, were called
to London on the 23rd of March, in order to sound them before the meeting
of parliament, when it was to be proposed to rescind the laws against popery {s).
The chancellor, Perth, had suggested this measure, as Hamilton and Lockhart
had shown some symptoms of disapprobation. The archbishop of St. Andrews
and the bishop of Edinburgh, were also called to London, with the same pur-
pose of securing previous votes by private intrigue (t). The burghs, also,
whose representatives in parliament formed a numerous body, were flattered
with the promise of a free trade to England (u). The proposed measure was
now discussed in printed papers and by public preaching (x). The parliament

(p) Fountainhall, ii., 399-403. In order to prevent such tumults in Edinburgh, an Act was passed
making masters answerable for the misconduct of their servants ; and because a landlady distrained the
press and other goods of one Watson, a papist printer, for his rent, this distress was made a combina-
tion; and his goods were violently taken, and brought to the abbey of Holyrood, where he was
protected. He was made the king's printer in Holyroodhouse, and was the father of James Watson,
the king's printer, during the reign of Anne. Id.

(5) Fountainhall, ii.. p. 403. The counsel for the injured duchess declined to act, but protested
that the doom against her husband should not prejudice her just right to her own estate. Id. This
respectable lady, who, with all the virtues of her sex, possessed the fortitude of her fathers, lived long
and acted prudently. She acquired for her children many lands : Musselburgh on the east, and Lang-
holm on the west.

(r) On the 11th of March 1686, the king appointed the Duke of Gordon, who was a Papist, the
governor of Edinburgh Castle, in the room of the Duke of Queensberry ; and the test which was
required by law was dispensed with in the duke's favour. In return, the Duke of Gordon discharged
this trust honourably.

(s) Id. (t) lb., 412. (tt) lb., 412.

(x) George Shiel, the minister of Prestonhaugh, having preached vehemently in the abbey church
against Popery, was sharply reproved ; but he said he had obeyed the bishop's old instructions.

^eci.m.— Its Civil History.] Op NORTH-BRITAIN. 703

at length convened at Edinburgh, on the 29th of April 1686. After the usual
protests for precedence, the king's advocate objected to the sitting of Lord
Forrester of Corstorphine, as he had not a right of peerage, the last lord's patent
being but temporary. So he was desired to withdraw till he had cleared his
title {y). This intimation is important, as it shows the usual mode of objecting
to disputable peerages. The king's letter to the parliament was now read,
proposing indulgence to the Roman Catholics ; and the king's commissioner
recited his speech, enforcing the king's topics of legislation [z). This was a
session of unusual length and discussion, and the people's minds were now
enlightened and their apprehensions awakened. The king's desire in favour
of his religion was finally disappointed [a) ; yet the king and his ministers
did not learn any moderation from recent experience. Any man of common
abilities might have perceived, from the intrigue and management and agita-
tion at Edinburgh during that session, how impossible it was to obtain a repeal
of the tests, or to make much progress in proselytism. The profoundest
lawyers, the soundest divines, the ablest men of Scotland, had all settled their
belief and taken their several stands, so that promises and threats wei'e

allowing the ministers to preach against Popery, sparing persons ; and he added that a ridiculous
religion might be treated with ridicule. Thereupon the bishop, by a new Act, directed the ministers
to discontinue such preaching in the pulpits of Edinburgh and its suburbs without his licence.
lb., 413.

(y) Fountainhall, ii., 413.

(^) The king's letter, the commissioner's speech, and the answer of the parliament are transcribed
in Wodrow's App., ii., 158-GO. The pai-liament say, in answer to the king's desire of toleration to
the Roman Catholics : " We shall take the same into our serious consideration, and go as great lengths
therein as our conscience will allow ; not doubting that your majesty will be careful to secure the
Protestant religion, as estabUshed by law." Id.

(a) Wodrow, ii., App. 160, has preserved the proposed bill respecting the penal statutes, which
shows that private worship in their private houses would have been allowed to Roman Catholics, yet
on condition that the Test Acts should be still more enforced. Nor was such a law accepted by the
king's ministers. There is a good account of the parliamentary debates during this intei-estiug session
in Fountainhall, i., 413. His lordship states that two of his servants had been anested during the
sitting, though the servants of the English members of parliament were free ; but he did not com-
plain to parliament of a breach of privilege. These circumstances show how little the privileges of the
Scottish parliament were then understood. The lord chancellor, Perth, sat in that parliament though
he was a Papist, and had not taken the test as required by law. There were hints thrown out that
he had no right to sit ; but there was no formal motion made upon this important point. It is curious
to remark that in the Harlem Gazette there was published, from time to time, a good account of what
passed in that parhament.

704 , AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

equally unavailing. In a few months this parliament was dissolved, without
any design, perhaps, of ever calling another during James VII.'s reign (6).

The parliament had hardly risen when the king and his ministers began
the unhallowed work of persecuting the members for their several votes, from
the highest to the lowest, from the Duke of Queensbeiry to Provost Miln of
Linlithgow (c). Rewards were given on the other side. The whole conduct
of James VII. exhibits such a delusion as the world had never witnessed before.
In opposition to the spirit of the country and the declarations of law, he con-
tinued to fill the privy council and the offices of government with papists, in
contempt of the test act. He now went the length of doing that for the papists
which the parliament had refused to do for them. By his own authority he took
the Roman Catholics under his laws and protection, giving them the private
exercise of their religion, with a chapel in the abbey of Holyrood ; and he
commanded the privv council and the magistrates to maintain the Roman
Catholics in their rights and privileges (d). Watson, the popish printer, was

(b) Lord Fountainhall remarks of that session : " One said of this parliament, what the Irish tagiie
" said of the Earl of Feversham, when the king was making him a knight of the garter, for defeating
" Monmouth, that God only deserved the garter ; so the finger of God was seen in the stedfastness of this
" parliament, who had not one great man in public to own them ; and it behoved to be from some
" higher principle that noblemen, gentlemen, bishops, and others cheerfully laid down their
"places rather than violate their consciences." Decisions, ii., 419. His lordship also mentions,
among other providences which occurred at that time, " to defeat this project of toleration," Doctor
Sibbald's turning Protestant, and Lord Doune, the commissioner, Earl of Murray's son, turning
Papist. Poor Sir Robert Sibbald, the physician, the antiquary, the topographer, whose books show
him to have been one of the weakest of men, was bred a Protestant, became a Papist, and now, from
trouble of conscience, after his return from London, called upon the bishop of Edinburgh,
declared he could find no security in the Popish religion, and desired to be readmitted into
the Protestant faith, offering to make a public recantation. But the bishop of Edinburgh
refused it as unseasonable ; while others called it a dispensation of Providence for strengthening
Protestants.

(c) Fountainhall, i., 420. Provost Miln, indeed, had been trusted to lead the burghs in favour
of the court ; but deserted the ministers in parliament.

(rf) The king's letter, which was read in council on the 4th September 1686. Lord Fountain-
hall, i., 424, says, some asked what those rights and privileges were 'i This unwarrantable
epistle was accompanied with panegyric on the Papists and censures on the Protestants, and par-
ticularly on some of the late members of parliament. We do not learn, however, from that
intelligent writer that the secretary or other officer, countersigning such illegal and offensive
rescripts, were called to an account, as responsible for their conduct. The useful principle of
responsibility seems not to have been known, at least practised, in the Scottish jurisprudence. This
observation is justified by what passed in the Scottish privy council, when an answer was drawn

Sect. YL—Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 705

made printer to the king's family, though Anderson's heirs had a grant to be
the king's printer ; and the privy council gave Watson the right to print all
the 'prognostications in Edinburgh. To that source may be traced up the various
books which bear in their title pages to have been printed at that period in
Holyroodhouse. The printing and circulating of such books was made one of
the charges against King James VII., when his right to govern was declared by
the convention to be forfeited (a). The king soon after assumed the power
of appointing the provosts of the several burghs (6). In May 1688, the king
exlpained his grant of toleration, in the face of the law, in such a manner as
to dissolve all judicatories till they should obtain new commissions renouncing
the legal test (c),

James VII. had now run his race of religious folly, and had shown his people
a thousand examples of his violent passion for governing against law when in

up to that rescript. The Duke of Hamilton, objecting to the prerogative of the king as a legal security
for this favour to the papists, the chancellor asked briskly who would question the king's power to
relax the laws. So the duke, retiring, said he was not doubting the king's prerogative, but what
needed the privy council declare it to be law. Sir George Lockhart, the president, sat mute the whole
time ; but whispered, he would quit his head before he would sign it so. Thus was the word letjal
put out and the word sufficient put in. In this manner, says Lord Fountainhall, they granted what the
parliament had refused. Decisions, i. 424.

(a) lb. 424, of the date the 16th of September 1686. The printers and booksellers of Edinburgh
were required by the privy council to declare what books they had imported in the last year ; the
chancellor observing that they had sold sundry scandalous and seditious pamphlets. lb. 472.

(b) lb. 425. The king immediately nominated the magistrates of Edinburgh. On the 23d of
November 1686, the king's yacht arrived from London at Leith, with the altar, vestments, images,
priests, and their appurtenants, for the popish chapel in the abbey of Holyrood. lb. 430. On St.
Andrew's day the abbey chapel was consecrated by holy water, and a sermon by Wederington. lb.
432. On the 8th of February 1688, Ogstoun, the bookseller in Edinburgh, was threatened for selling
Archbishop Usher's Sermons against the Papists, and the History of the French Persecutions, and all
the copies were taken from him, though popish books were printed and sold. lb. 496. On the
22d of March 1688, the Rules of the Popish College in the Abbey of Holyrood were published,
inviting children to be educated gratis. lb. 602. See those rules in Wodrow, ii. App. No.
cxlii.

(c) Fountainhall, i. 503. It was even supposed by some that the same exposition had
dissolved the Court of Session. But the lords continued to sit. Id. On the 24th of July 1688,
the chancellor ordered the king's advocate to summon the masters of the university of Aberdeen
for presuming to take an oath of the students, when graduated, that they would profess the
protestant religion. The masters defended themselves by saying that their statutes and their
oaths obliged them to do it. lb. 513. This seemed to be the plea of Magdalen College in
Oxford.

706 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edmburghshire.

pursuit of his object (d). Throughout the months of September and October
1688, his oflBcers of state at Edinburgh acted as if they expected an invasion
from Holland (e). Throughout August and November 1688, the Court of
Session almost ceased to act, considering its functions to have ceased, from the
apparent dissolvition of the established government at Edinburgh (/"). As
early as the 3d of December 1688, the students of Edinburgh university
burned the pope, and clamoured for a free parliament. The students were
on that occasion obviously made use of as instruments. The magistrates
endeavoured to preserve tranquility. But the chancellor. Earl of Perth, in
whose person rested the whole government of Scotland, retired from the capital
to the Highlands, being persuaded by some of the privy council to shelter
himself from the coming storm. The king withdrew from London about the
same time that the chancellor retired from Edinburgh (g). The remaining
members of the privy council assumed the provisional government (h). Yet
the populace and the students repaired to the abbey, to burn the chapel in
Holyroodhouse. They were repulsed by the guard, who fired upon them
under the direction of Captain Wallace. He was now directed by the privy
councillors to withdraw his guards ; but hesitating to obey what he thought
incompetent authority, the citizens overpowered him. The city being thus
master of the abbey, the populace, without further opposition, forced the doors
of the chapel, and carried the furniture to the cross, where it was burned in
zealous triumph. After this sacrifice, guards were placed throughout the town
and its suburbs, to repress any further tumults. Nor did Edinburgh castle

(d) See Wodrow's App. ii. p. 187-99.

(e) Mackay and Blackadder, who h.ad recently come from Holland as intriguers, were imprisoned in
Edinburgh castle. A proclamation was made for raising the militia and for setting up beacons. Soon
after another proclamation called out the Heritors. Wodrow's App. ii. 20] -3. On the 10th of
November, a third proclamation threatened the spreaders of false news. lb. 205. The Prince of
Orange had landed in Torbay on the 5th of the same month. Sir John Dalrymple's Mem., i. 223.
There was an address to the king from the Scottish bishops, dated on 3d of November 1688, on the
birth of a prince, on the threatened invasion from Holland, full of adulation, yet trusting to his
royal protection to their church and religion, as the laws had established them. Wodrow, App. ii.
204. It was in this address that the bishops prayed God to give the king the hearts of his subjects
and the necks of his enemies.

(/) Fountainhall, i. 516.

(g) The chancellor, who had been the great instrument of James's misgovernment in Scotland,
attempting to flee into France, was brought back by the seamen of the Forth.

(h) On the 14th of December 1G88. there was a proclamation against the papists, and requiring all
persons to disarm them. On the 24th of the same month, another proclamation called out the militia
to resist papists.

Sect. Yl.—Jts Civil History.] OfNOETH-BKITAIN. 707

fire upon the city, owing to the discretion of the Duke of Gordon, the governor,
who yet refused to resign his command. On the 25 th of December, the
students paraded with the college mace before them, and music playing, to
the cross of Edinburgh, where they again burnt the pope, while the privy
councillors and town council beheld the triumph with approving eyes. But
the country was now universally in arms, and the papists, who made no
resistance, were generally seized. In this manner, then, was the government
of James VII. dissolved in Scotland, where he seems to have had no party to
support his measures, which were as absurd as they were illegal.

It is a more pleasing task to show how a very different government was
established on the ruins of an administration which was wholly corrupt. On
the 27th of December 1688, the privy council transmitted an address to the
Prince of Orange. On the following day the lord provost and the common
council of Edinburgh addressed the prince, expressing their satisfaction that
his endeavours had been attended with success without bloodshed. They
offered him their services, tliey begged for his protection to their persons, city,
and privileges, and they assured him of their cheerful concurrence in pre-
serving their religion, their laws, and their liberties. They declared for a free
pai'liament, as the students had done before them, for securing their ancient
monarchy and royal succession (i). The archiepiscopal city of Glasgow pro-
claimed the Prince of Orange as the protestant protector. Such, then, were
the proofs which the prince received of the general wishes of the Scottish
people.

Encouraged by those attentions, the prince, on the 7th of January 1689,
called together, at Whitehall, the nobility and gentry of Scotland, who were
then in London. He briefly asked their advice in what manner to secure the
protestant religion, and to restore their laws and liberties, according to his
declaration. After a slight debate, thirty peers and eighty commoners, after
thanking the prince for his generous undertaking, desired him to assume the
government of Scotland for the preservation of peace, until a general meeting
of the Estates might be called at Edinburgh, by the prince's proclamation,
according to the custom of the kingdom. The prince had now the authority of a
convention of nobles and gentry, sitting without the kingdom, for taking upon
him the administration of the Scottish affairs ; and he was obeyed with fuU as
much conviction of his title as the power of those kings who had governed
Scotland for two centuries of anarchical misrule.

(i) Maitl. Edin. 108.

708 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y. —Edinburghshire.

The Estates of Scotland assembled at Edinburgh, in obedience to the prince's
lettei-s. They met in one apartment, according to the custom of the country.
The bishop of Edinburgh read prayers to them, in which he prayed God to have
compassion on King James, and to restore him to his government. Whether the
king or the bishop had acted most indiscreetly, needs not be strenuously debated.
The Estates chose the Duke of Hamilton for their president, by a majority of
forty voices, in opposition to the Marquis of Athole ; and they first provided
for their own safety, as the city of Edinburgh was altogether under the cannon
of the castle, which was commanded by the Duke of Gordon, a Roman
Catholic. As the duke had no very determinate purpose, the castle sustained
a sort of siege, throughout many months, in the midst of frequent treaties. In
the meantime, the city of Edinburgh was crowded with armed men, who had
come from all parts of the kingdom, from motives either of zeal or curiosity.
The Estates commanded all persons, who did not belong to the city or the con-
vention, to withdraw from the town, and they appointed a committee to take
care of the public peace. By admitting the son of the late Earl of Argyle to
sit as one of the convention, notwithstanding a pi'otest, while his father's
attainder remained unreversed, the members showed to those who reasoned
accurately, more zeal than knowledge [k).

The prince's letter to the Estates was now read, recommending the speedy
settlement of their government on lasting foundations, and desiring them to
consider of an union of the two kingdoms. After some debate, and a resolute
protest, the Estates also read a letter from the king, which was written at sea,
on his voyage to France. Such a letter, consisting of promises and threats,
at such a crisis, could only be injurious to the writer, who did not recollect,
amidst his disasters, how much he had himself done to animate the Scottish
people with desire of change, and to promote the quick progress of decisive
revolution. The Estates of course proceeded to declare themselves a free
and lawful meeting, which was regularly convened for the equal settlement
of their regular government. Nor did they proceed hastily to this difficult
work. They provided for the public revenue (l) ; they endeavoured to draw
together the scattered forces of the state (to) ; and they now answered the

(i) The attainder of the Earl of Argyle was afterwards reversed by parliament.

(A The merchants of Edinburgh offered to advance the money immediately upon the security of the
convention.

(m) On the 30th of March 1689, the forces that came from the west to Edinburgh, being
above 6,000 men, were ordered one week's pay, and the public thanks of the house for their

QQci.Yl.— Its Civil Historn.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 709

prince's letter to the Estates, in a manner that must have been very agreeable
to him, whUe they declined to give any other answer to the king than a
passport to his messenger {n). On the 26th of March, the magistrates of
Edinburgh gave their oaths of fidelity to the Estates (o) ; and on the 2d of April
1689, the Estates came to the memorable vote, that James VII. had, by the
violation of the laws, forfaulted his right to the crown, and that the throne was
thereby vacant. This vote, and the various reasons which were detailed in its
support, were approved by the whole estates except twelve, and of these,
seven were bishops (p). This vote was followed by another, which was equally
important, for settling the crown upon William and Mary, the king and
queen of England. On the 11th of April, William and Mary were accord-
ingly proclaimed, at the cross of Edinburgh, king and queen of Scotland, and
the longer liver of them, but the regal power was appropriated to the king
alone {q). And a claim of right, or instrument of government, was directed
to be presented to the king and queen with the ofter of the crown (r). AH
those measures were followed by a long list of grievances which had arisen
out of the legal anarchy of late times, and undoubtedly improved a very imper-
fect constitution (s). All those documents were presented to the king and
queen at Whitehall, on the 11th of May 1689. They both on that occasion
took the coronation oath, with an explanatory avowal that they did not consider
themselves thereby obliged to persecute. The commissioners, Argyle, Mont-
gomery, and Dalrymple, were not instructed by the Estates to represent to
the king and queen, "that persecution was neither intended by the oath nor
required by law," whatever the words might import. William and Mary
were now, both in law and fact, the king and queen of Scotland. It was

good service in blocking up the castle. Convention Proceedings, No. 3. The above forces were
popularly called the Cameronians. They refused any gratification when they were sent home, saying,
that they came to save and serve their country. They had on their colours a Bible with some other
devices, with this motto, "For reformation according to the word of God." Id.

(n) lb. No. 3-4.

(o) lb. No. 6. Several of the magistrates refusing to take that oath to the Estates were ordered to
be turned out and new ones chosen in their room. Id.

(p) When the business of the day was over one of the bishops offered to say prayers as the custom
was ; upon which it was ordered that King James be no more prayed for, and the bishop discreetly
said The Lord's Prayer.

(q) lb. No. 11. ()■) Id.

(s) lb. No. 12 ; and the Acts of the Estates, ch. xiii. Yet on that occasion there was no
declaration making the servants of the crown responsible for the act of the king, which would
have been far more useful in practice than any recital of abstract rights or of experienced wrongs.
4 4 W

710 AnAOCOUNT [Ch. Y .—Edinhur<jhshire.

also desired by the Estates, that for the further securing the Protestant religion
and the national liberties, the king would "turn this meeting into a parha-
ment (()." The Revolution was now accomplished at Edinburgh by the
several acts of the Estates, who declared the forfeiture of James VII., and by
the nomination of William and Mary as king and queen, under a claim of rights
and a representation of grievances [u).

Under the reigns of Charles II. and James, some of the covenanted clergy
and the lowest populace refused obedience to the laws and acknowledgment
of the king. After this revolution, some of the episcopal clergy and laity
refused to acknowledge King William and to conform to the declared law.
We may thus perceive that those dissimilar parties acted upon a sunilar
principle ; but the Episcopalians now changed places with the Presbyterians.
One of the first acts of the Estates was to admit the son of the attainted Earl of
Argyle to sit among them as a peer, having the rights of the peerage ; and
they also admitted Sir Patrick Hume to sit as a legal representative of Berwick-
shire, though he had also been attainted. The Estates perhaps acted upon
the principle that the government of the late kings, and the proceedings of
the recent parliaments, were equally unconstitutional. James VII. had intro-
duced unchartered irregularities into the magistracy of the royal burghs. In
order to restore those chartered bodies to their legal rights, the Estates directed
that new magistrates should be chosen by the inhabitants of those towns. A
different mode was adopted when the Estates were to be converted into a Parlia-
ment. The Estates met, according to their adjournment ; and the king and
queen, with their consent, declared the Estates to be a Parliament ; and it was,
by the same act, declared to be treason for any one to impugn the authority of
the parliament as thus constituted (x). In the unconstitutional government of
James VII. there was nothing more absurd and illegal than the present mode
of converting a revolutionary convention into a legal parliament. When the
king and queen had accepted the government, there were now rulers, properly

(t) The Convention Proceedings, No. 22.

(ii) King William, on the 17th of May 1689, wrote a letter to the Estates, declaring his acceptance
of the crown, with the claim of right and the representation of grievances. On the 22d of the same
month the Estates adjourned themselves to the 5th of June then next. The functions of the Estates
■which had accomplished that great and salutary measure ought now to have ceased, as there was now
a king in possession.

(x) Stat. 1st. Pari. William and Mary, ch. i. This act was confirmed by the more legal parliament
of Queen Anne. But this act of recognition seems to imply that the only parliament of King William
was liable to some objection. Pari. Anne, May 170.3, ch. 3.

Sect. YI.— Its Civil History.^ OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 711

constituted both in law and fact. When the Estates had thereupon adjourned,
the Revolution was accomplished ; and the revolutionary government ought at
this period to have closed. The king had by law no right to declare the conven-
tion to be a 'parliament. All he could do legally as the Scottish king, was to issue
writs in the accustomed manner to the constituted authorities, directing them
to cause the electors to choose their representatives for the proposed parha-
ment according to their several privileges. The king, then, in forming his
first parliament, did not act according to law. The objection to this first,
and indeed only parliament of this reign, therefore, was that the people did
not choose the representative part of it ; and King William, with all his
renown for prudence, chose to put his legislative government of Scotland upon
the footing of jDOwer rather than of law [y). Revolutions in government
can only be justified by necessity ; but no considerate statesman who may be
occupied in such transactions will carry revolutionary practice a single step
beyond the warrant of necessity. Every measure which runs beyond that
warrant amounts to positive illegality (s).

Throughout the reign of William, there was only one parhament without
any election of the people, and eight sessions of violent legislation. Edinburgh
was the scene of the Revolution, as we have seen, and the place of so many
sittings of a parliament whose authority was questionable, and whose policy was
doubtful. The city of Edinbui'gh existed in a state of hostility with its castle
from the beginning of the Revolution till the 13th of June 1690, when it
capitulated. In such a town, we may suppose that it contained many persons

{y) The second act of this first parliament thus illegally constituted, was "an act recognizing
their majesty's royal authority.'' But as they had not the people's assent, constitutionally
expressed, they did not gain one iota of additional legaUzation. The second act of this ill-omened
parliament, was an act abolishing prelacy. The fourth act was that for rescindiiuj the forfeiture of
the late Earl of Argyle. By another act the first session was adjourned to the 8th of October then
nest.

(z) On the 24th of May 1689, a new commission was issued by King William nominating a privy
council. It was resolved that this new privy council should act before appending the Great Seal to the
commission. But why should the privy council act without their appointment ? A thousand facts
evince that the statesmen who then figured on the stage at Edinburgh had no notion of acting accord-
ing to law accurately understood. When the convention of Estates adjourned to the 5th of June, a
proclamation was ordered to be issued, requiring the several members to attend on that day, and the
proclamation stated that it was issued by warrant from his majesty ; yet this did not legalize the
members, as the parliamentary electors had not chosen them. The king had no right, by his waiTant,
so to constitute a parliament. In the Convention Proceedings, No. 26, there are some reasons to justify
this ; but they are egregious sophistry.

712 An ACCOUNT [Ch-V.— Edinburghshire.

who did not quite approve of the revolutionary proceedings which they wit-
nessed within its walls. There were, of course, several plots which were dis-
concerted as soon as discovered (a). The city, however, concurred in the Revo-
lution, though perhaps without much zeal. In July 1690, the magistrates were
empowered to raise a revenue on the inhabitants for maintaining the guard of the
town (b). Another act was soon after passed for enabling the corporation to pay
its debts, though not without opposition (c). An act was also passed in favour of
the four incorporated trades of the Canongate, which was opposed by the protest
of the city (d). Edinburgh was stained in 1689 by the murder of the Lord
President Lockhart ; and it was disgraced during the reign of William by
the practice of torture. It saw also its university reformed under a statute
which was made in 1690, by legislators who are more memorable for their
zeal than knowledge (e). Their buildings were moreover reformed (/).
A destructive conflagration which happened in February 1700, gave rise to
an act of the town council in 1703 for quenching fire. Throughout this reign
we hear of no hilarity in Edinburgh. There were frequent fasts and some
thanksgivings ; but the gloominess of the citizens was never, as far as appears,
tempered by such little incitements to mirth as are apt to disperse melancholy.
The birthdays of the king and queen were, indeed, kept, though without
any great display {g). There seems to be nothing in the whole conduct of
King William with regard to Scotland which much merits commemoration.
The massacre of Glencoe, the disregard of the Scottish privileges at the treaty
of Ryswick, the failure of the Darien expedition — all those causes of discon-
tent carried the popular discontent into violent indignation ; and in 1700,

la) On the 21st of June 1690, a proclamation was issued " for securing the peace within the city of
Edinburgh and the suburbs thereof," requiring the citizens to deliver to the magistrates the names of
their lodgers.

(b) Pari. Proceedings, No. 128. (c) Unprinted Acts, Sess. 1690. (rf) Id.

(e) One of the professors was charged with the crime of having taken down out of the college hall
the pictures of the first reformers, with the abuse of making some alteration in the oath which was
wont to be taken by the students who were about to obtain their master of arts degree, and with the
real offence of not taking the oath of allegiance and signing the confession of faith. Pari. Proceed-
ings, No. 143.

( /') In 1698, an act passed, regulating the manner of building within the town of Edinburgh.
Stat. chap. viii.

(a) On such occasions the cannons of the castle were fired, a dinner was given, the magistrates came
to the cross in their formalities to drink their majesties' healths, while the conduits ran wine, and the
solemnity ended with numerous bonfires and ringing of bells. Bnt we hear nothing of concerts, balls
or plays.

Sect. \l.—Its Civil History.'] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 713

a tumult ensued at Edinburgh, whicli obliged the king's commissioner and
other officers to retire from popular fury (o). Whether, indeed, we review
King William's policy or his legislation, nothing appears that ought to revive
in the minds of those who are descended from his Scottish subjects but con-
tempt for a coronation oath, which, to be taken, required to be explained away;
abhorrence of that monstrous anomaly, a free parliament, without the people's
choice ; and disdain for forms of faith which precluded freedom of thought.

King William demised at Kensington on the 8th of March 1702. On the
same day the accession of Queen Anne was proclaimed. She took the corona-
tion oath that was required by the Scottish statute legalizing the claim of right ;
and she immediately transmitted a letter to the privy council of Scotland,
authorizing them to act, and assuring them that she would maintain the
government both in church and state. She was accordingly proclaimed at
the cross of Edinburgh with the usual ceremonies. On the same occasion a
proclamation was issued to continue the officers of state till the queen's dii-ec-
tions should be further signified. In this manner, then, was the Scottish
government fully constituted in the person of Queen Anne, and in the power
of her ministers of state.

The parliament was holden at Edinburgh on the 9th of June 1702, under
the Duke of Queensberry as the queen's commissioner. By the first act the
Estates recognized her majesty's royal authority. Their second statute was
merely an act of adjournment till the 1st of July then next. Their third act
was another law for securing the true protestant religion and the presbyterian
government. Their fourth statute going far beyond all these, declared the
present meeting of parliament to be lawful, and that it should be treason to
impugn the authority of the current parliament on any pretence whatsoever.
But this declaration, continuing the same meeting which had sat as the con-
vention in 1689, did not pass without opposition. The Duke of Hamilton,
with seventy-nine members, withdrew from the assembly, protesting against
its illegality. The faculty of advocates forming the great body of the Scottish
law, supported that pi-otest by declaring the sitting parliament to be positively
unconstitutional (6). The lawyers were reprimanded by the parliament, but
the nation was not convinced of the rectitude of this measure, and much less
of the legality of the sitting legislators. A national fast did not remove the

(a) Arnot's Edin., 185.

{b) In 1696 the Estates had, by their act, ch. 17, declared that the parliament, notwithstanding
the demise of the crown, should continue to sit during six months after such an event.

714 ' AnACCOUNT [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

well-grounded dissatisfaction ^^•hich pervaded the capital and the kingdom.
After voting a supply, the parliament proceeded to pass an act appointing
commissioners for treating of an union between Scotland and England, which
the queen had recommended to their consideration as of the greatest impor-
tance to both.

The queen appointed commissioners to treat concerning that great object
on behalf of England. But another parliament, consisting of new members,
assembhng at Edinburgh on the 3rd of May 1703, the most violent debates
ensued, which ended in rescinding the commission that had already appointed
negotiators on behalf of Scotland. Under the baleful influence of party spirit,
this parliament again recognized the queen's authority, again secured the
true protestant religion and presbyterian government, and ratified the act which
turned the meeting of the Estates in 1689 into a parliament. These attempts
to conceal the anarchical temper which then prevailed only revealed it. But
the act with regard to peace and war, sufficiently revealed that spirit, by
changing the nature of the constitution. That temper was still more distinctly
avowed by the bill, which, pretending to secure the government, would have
more essentially changed its nature; and which, when the queen's representative
refused his assent, induced the promoters of it to question the queen's power of
legislative dissent. Some laws of domestic economy were passed amidst this
violence, while the usual supply was withheld. From the temper and tenor of
those proceedings, it became apparent to considerate men that the two British
kingdoms must either separate or unite (c).

The several acts of the parhament which assembled at Edinburgh on the
6th of July 1704, under the Marquis of Tweeddale as the queen's commissioner,
are so many proofs of that melancholy truth. As early, however, as the 11th
of January 1705, a bill was brought into the parliament of England enabling
the queen to appoint commissioners to treat of an union with Scotland. The
Scottish parliament, which assembled at Edinburgh under the Duke of Argyle,
as the queen's commissioner, on the 28th of June 1705, followed that example
of conciliation. In the meantime, the populace of Edinburgh continuing in a
state of irritation, broke out into tumult, which threatened the life of the
chancellor {d). It was not till the 16th of April 1706 that the negotiators of

(c) On the 6th of August 1704, the Scottish parliament passed an Act oj Security, which amounted
nearly to a declaration of war against England. On the 21st of December thereafter, the House of
Lords addressed the queen to fortify Newcastle, with the other towns on the borders ; and to march
her army that way.

((Z) Arnot's Edin., 186.

Sect. VI — Its Civil History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 715

the two kingdoms assembled for treating of an union. On the 22nd of July
the articles of that union, by which the two kingdoms were incorporated into
one state, were finally signed by the several commissioners. But the articles,
which were purposely withheld from the public, were still to be ratified by the
two parliaments. The city of Edinburgh was particularly interested in the
event. It was foi'eseen that the withdrawing the semblance of royalty and the
national councils, would be as mortifying to her pride as those circumstances
were supposed to be injuriovis to her interests ; and it was not then surprising
that a measure which was unpopular throughout the kingdom should have
incited the most dangerous ferments in the capital. On the 23rd of October
1706, the populace attacked the house of the late provost. Sir Patrick John-
stone, who had promoted the Union, and who was now obliged to save himself
from popular fury by timeful flight. The insui-gents, from their numbers and
violence, became for a while masters of the city. A party of soldiers were
sent to take possession of the Netherbow port ; the guai'ds secured the avenues
to the parliament house ; a little army was encamped in the vicinity of the
metropolis during the sitting of parliament, in order, by all those means, to
preserve the doubtful tranquility of the Scottish capital {d). In the midst of
those disturbances and this security, the parliament, which assembled at Edin-
burgh on the 3rd of October 1706, ratified the articles of the Union on the
16th of the subsequent January (e). This great measure being thus carried, it
met with no difficulties in the parliament of England. Thus, then, was
accomplished this efficient act of wise policy which had been often attempted,
yet till now had always failed. The epoch of the Union is the 1st of May 1707.
While the capital was somewhat depressed during several years, the country-
did not derive all the benefits which had been foretold, as the people were not
prepared, either with capital or skill or enterprise, to derive all the commercial
advantages which ought naturally to have been the result. It is only by com-
paring the state of Edinburgh and of Scotland in 1706 and in 1806, that the
wonderful eflects which were foreseen, and have resulted from an union of
afiections and interests, of industry and enterprises, of policy and legislation,
at length clearly appear and are generally felt.

This progress of melioration was, however, obstructed a while by the
rebelhon of 1715. This unwox'thy enterprise began, owing to the relaxation of

(fZ) Arnot's Edin., 189. There were several proclamations, which show the state of the public
mind on that occasion, forbidding tumultuous meetings ; and several writings were directed to be
burnt by the hangman at the Cross of Edinburgh. Unprinted Acts.

(e) Acts, 4th Sess. 1st Pari. Anne, ch. vi., ch. vii., and ch. viii.

716 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Edinburghshire.

the established government, with an attempt to surprise the castle of Edinburgh.
One of its first effects was to cause an extraordinary demand on the Bank of
Scotland, which obliged its directors to stop the temporary currency of their
notes. Fifteen hundred insurgents passed the Forth from Fife into East-
Lothian, and marching forwards towards Edinbui-gh, found it so well prepared
that they declined to assault it ; but they diverged to Leith, which they held
for some days, though the Duke of Argyle tried, with inefficient force, to over-
power them. They did not think fit, however, to provoke his perseverance ;
and marching southward, they were more vigorously attacked and finally
overpowered. Meantime six thousand Dutch troops an-ived at Edinburgh
in aid of the king's measures ; and rebellion languished, and tranquility was
restored to a hai'assed capital and a misgovei'ned country {/).

Scotland was again alai'med, and Edinburgh once more prepared for defence,
against the Spanish invasion of 1718, a hundred and thirty years after the
grand armada had alarmed their fathers. The conspiracy of 1722 called upon
the citizens to avow their loyalty and to offer their attachments. The malt-tax
of 1725 made them fear for their property, incited tumults which disturbed
their quiet, and in the end introduced among them new establishments that
promoted their industry and augmented their wealth. Yet experience of the
past did not prevent the lower ordei's from assassinating Porteous, who had
been pardoned by the government, and this outrage brought them before
the parliament, endangered their privileges, and obliged them to adopt
measures for preventing similar tumults. In 1744 the citizens of Edinburgh
were roused by information of the approach of a pretender to the crown. He
actually landed in the subsequent year. He pressed southward to their capital,
whatever force could be opposed to his progress. On the 17th of September
1745, he entered Edinburgh, which could not be defended, and he took
possession of the palace of Holyrood house, the residence of his progenitors ;
but he did not gain Edinburgh Castle, which was defended by the governor,
Guest, with vigour, and retained with success against the feeble attacks of "the
new-entrusted sceptre." Yet the rebels went out to defeat the royal army
under Cope, and to retui-n with triumph. They marched off to the south-
ward, on the 31st of October, to try their fortunes in England; but they
found themselves obliged to retreat along the western road before the vigorous
pursuit of the king's armies. From the 17th of September to the 3 1st of
October 1745, the rebels, amounting nearly to 8,000 men, domineered at

(/) Arnot's Edin., 171.

Sect. VI.— 7/5 Civil History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 717

Edinburgh, which was obliged to furnish contributions of shoes, tents, and
targets (g). The castle, indeed, disturbed their enjoyments ; yet during that
period, within the Scottish metropolis, there was no municipal government (h).
In the meantime, the son of the pretender resided in the joalace of Holyrood at
perfect ease, seeing and being seen by every one without any hesitation or
restraint (i).

After the tumults on account of the malt-tax had been suppressed in 1725,
various useful establishments were formed at Edinburgh for giving employ-
ment to a restless people. From the suppression of this rebellion, in 1746, the
spirit of the peojjle was again turned to useful labours, and improvements soon
after commenced, which contributed to energize the country throughout many
years, to confer on a more industrious land the agreeable advantages of industry
and the important benefits of wealth. The magistrates of Edinburgh began in
1749 to think seriously of meliorations, and to propose establishments, to
coiu't commerce by an exchange, to acquire useful knowledge by a select
society, and to promote general gaiety by public amusements. But the
commencement of the present reign is the true epoch of the progressive im-

(g) They were described by an intelligent person who was sent from York to Edinburgh on
purpose to report the state of the insurgents ; and the following is submitted to the reader from
a MS. copy of his Eeport in my library: "They consist, said he, of an odd medley of greybeards
" and nobeards : old men fit to drop into the grave, and young boys whose swords are near equal
'• to their weight, and I really believe more than their length. Four or five thousand may be very
" good, determined men ; but the rest are mean, dirty, villainous looking rascals, who seem more
" anxious about plunder than their prince, and would be better pleased with four shillings than
" a crown.''

(A) Maitl. Edin., 124-31. On the 30th of October 1746, the king issued an order in council,
directing a choice of new magistrates by a, poll election. Id.

({) The above-mentioned "person got to Edinburgh on the 15th of October 1745, at night,
" without let or molestation ; and on the 17th was introduced to him whom they call their prince,
" who asked him several questions as to the number of troops and afi'ections of the people in
" England, which he answered truly as far as he knew. He was in the room \vith the prince, and two
" more, a quarter of an hour. The young chevalier is about five feet eleven inches high, very pro-
"portionably made, wears his own hair, has a full forehead, a small but lively eye, a round, brown-
" complexioned face, nose and mouth pretty small ; full under the chin, not a long neck, about his
" under jaw a pretty many pimples. He is always in a Highland habit, as are all about him. Then
" he had a short Highland plaid waistcoat, breeches of the same, a blue garter on, and a St. Andrew's
" cross hanging by a green ribbon at his button-hole, but no star ; he had his boots on. as he
" has always. He dines every day in public ; all sorts of people are admitted to see him then ;
" and he constantly practises all the arts of condescension and popularity ; talks familiarly to his
" meanest Highlanders, and makes them very fair promises." The above description corresponds
very exactly with the bust which was made by Le Moin, of Charles Stewart, after his return
to Paris.

4 4X

718 An ACCOUNT [CKY.— Edinburghshire.

provements of Edinburgh, of the activity of her enterpi'ize, of the augmenta-
tion of inhabitants, the increase of her buildings, and the splendour of their
opulence.

In the meantime, the rents and profits of the lands within the shire of
Edinburgh, and the two constabularies of Haddington and Linlithgow, amounted,
according to the ancient extent, to £4,029 ; but according to the true value
of the year 1367, to £3,030 12s. 9d. (k), such being the sad effects of the
succession wars throughout the hostile reigns of Robert Bruce and Da\nd II.,
his less fortunate son. At the recent epoch of the Restoration, there were
accounted for in the Exchequer, as the amount of the king's rental in the
shires of Edinburgh and Bathgate, and in the regality of Musselburgh,
£2,197 12s. Id. Scots money ; from which, however, there were deductions
amounting to £1,411 13s. 4d., that arose from the rapacity and fraudulence of
many years, both of penury and misgovernment (/), so disastrous had those
long wars been to the domestic affairs of a wretched land.

When the competition for the crown began, and the numerous parliament of
Brigham sat in March 1290, we may easily discover who were then the con-
siderable men of Edinbui-ghshire, by ascertaining who were its representatives
in that assembly. The abbots of Hol^a-ood and Newbotle represented the
ecclesiastical estate, and William de la Hay of Locherwart, and WiUiam de
Saintclair of Rosliu, were the only barons from Edinburghshire (m) ; but at
the accession of Robert Bruce, there were not any peers or greater barons,
who had a residence in this county, or a title from any of its localities. There
was not a noble in this shire, even at the epoch of the tardy return of James I,
from his long captivity. During his reign, indeed, there were two lords of
parliament created out of the gentry of Edinbvirghshire (n). James II. only

(k) The old MS. Rental in the Paper Office.

(/) Mr. Solicitor Purvis' Exchequer MS. in my library. The difference between the Scots and
English money was, according to the Exchequer Account, as ten to one.

(?«) Eym., ii., 471-2.

(n) Sir William Borthwick was made Lord Borthwick in 1433. Bower, ii., 542. He is supposed
to have been descended from Wilham de Borthwick, who flourished in 1378 under Eobert II.
Dougl. Peer., 76. William de Borthwick, the son of William, obtained a licence from James I., in
1430, to build a castle in that place, which is called the mote of Lochwarret. lb., 77. A castle
was accordingly built, which is said to have been called Borthwick Castle. Stat. Acco., xiii., 533-4.
At the baptism of the twin sons of James I. appeared the son and heir of William, the lord of
Borthwick. The other lord of parliament who was created by James I. was Sir James Douglas of
Dalkeith, whose progenitor, Andrew Douglas, a younger son of Archibald, the third in descent
from the original settler, branched off from the principal stock at the middle of the 13th
century.

Sect. Yl— Its Civil Histm-y.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 719

added one lord of parliament to the list which had come down from his
father. Sir William Crichton, the chancellor, the ablest and most vigorous
character in Scotland, was created Lord Crichton ; but this title, which he
had acquired by his talents and defended by his vigour, was forfeited by his
grandson in 1484. In 1458, James, Lord Dalkeith, was created Earl of
Morton, and from this enumeration it appears, satisfactorily, that when
James VI. became king of England in 1603, there were only three peers in
Edinburghshire ; William, Earl of Morton ; John, Lord Borthwick ; and
Mark, Lord Newbotle. James VI., after his accession, merely added three to
the peerage of Edinburghshire. He, indeed, raised Lord Newbotle to the earl-
dom of Lothian in 160G. He created, in 1607, John Bothwell to be Lord Holy-
roodhouse, a lordship which ceased in 1635 ; his ancestors had been provosts
of Edinburgh and senators of the College of Justice. Sir William Cranston
was created Lord Cranston in 1611 (o); and Sir George Ramsay, who could
boast of very gallant ancestors, was made a lord of parliament in 1618, and
created Earl of Dalhousie in 1633. Charles I., amidst his constant choice of
many difficulties, elevated one peer, as we have just seen, and added three
new ones within this shire (p). Charles II. only added to the list of peerages two
peers within this shire, who, however, did not long embarrass the peerage (q).
James VII., amid his religious delusions, seems to have been very penurious of
peerages. King William was frugal of his creations in this country (r). At
the great epoch of the Union, on the 1st of May 1707, there remained of
peers within this shire only eleven to oppose or approve that important
measure of conciliation and interest (s). In July 1726, Prince Frederick, the
eldest son of George, Prince of Wales, was created, in his twentieth year, Duke

(o) His progenitor had been provost of Edinburgh under James II.

{j>) (1), Sir Archibald Napier was created in 1627 Lord Napier of Merchiston. (2), Dame
Elizabeth Beaumont was created Baroness Crammond in 1627, and her son Sir Thomas Richardson
succeeded to the same title in 1628. But this peerage soon became extinct. (3), In 1633, George
Forrester was made Lord Forrester.

(5) In 1651, Sir James Macgill was made Viscount of Oxeuford, a title wliich failed by extinction
in 1706. In 1681, Charles Cheyne was created Viscount Newhaven, whose title became extinguished
in 1728.

(r) In 1700, he created Archibald Primrose Viscount of Primrose, who in 1703 was elevated to be
Earl of Eosebery. In 1703, Sir James Primrose was raised to the peerage by the title of Viscount
Primrose ; and in 1701, King WiUiam raised the Earl of Lothian to be a Marquis by the same
title.

(s) Above all was Anne, the Duchess of Buccleuch, whose heir-apparent was Francis, Earl of
Dalkeith. The ten other peers were James Earl of Morton, who was one of the commissioners

720 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

of Edinburgh (<). He died on the 20th of March 1751 ; and on the 14th
of November 1764, his third son, Prince WilHam Henry, was created Duke of
Gloucester and Edinburgh. When he died in August 1805 he was succeeded
by his only son as Duke of Edinburgh.

In addition to those distmguished persons, the localities of Mid-Lothian have
given titles to several senators of the College of Justice. In May 1532, John
Dingwall, the provost of Trinity College, William Gibson, the dean of
Restalrig, and James Fowlis of Collinton, were all appointed original members
of the new establishment («). John Sinclair, the dean of Restalrig, who was
afterwards the bishop of Brechin and president of the court, was made a
senator of the College of Justice on the 19th of November 1540 (x). James
Scott, the provost of Corstorphine, and Thomas Marjoribanks of Ratho, were
appointed to the same trust on the 13th of November 1554 (</). Thomas
Maccalyean of CliftonhaU, who died in 1581, was raised to that honour on
the 20th of October 1570, in the room of Henry Balnaves of Hallhill, a noted
intriguer during intriguing times (z). On the 20th of October 1575, Robert
Pont, the provost of Trinity College, and the first protestant minister of the
West Kirk, was elevated to that station (a). Richard Cockburn of Clerkington
was appointed to that trust in the room of Sir Lewis Bellenden of Auchinoul, in

for settling the Union ; Heury Lord Bortliwick, WiUiam Marquis of Lotkian, William Lord Cranston,
William the Earl of Dalhousie, Francis Lord Napier, George Lord Forrester, William Viscount New-
haven, Archibald Earl of Eosebery, who was one of the commissioners for settling that interesting
measure, and Archibald Viscount of Primrose.

{t) On that event there were great rejoicings at Edinburgh. Caledonian Mercury of the 25th of
July 1726.

(») Lord Hailes's Catalogue of the Lords of Session. James Foulis was appointed the king's advo-
cate in 1528, the clerk register in 1531, a senator, of that college in 1543 ; and he was employed with
other commissioners to negotiate the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots with Edward the Prince of
Wales. Dougl. Baronage, 87.

(.r) Lord Hailes's Catalogue, p. 3, with the note. {y) Id. (c) lb. 5.

(a) lb. 5. He was the father of Timothy Pont, the celebrated ehorographer of Scotland. The Rules
for understanding the Calendare that are prefixed to Bassendyne's Bible, which was the first printed
in Scotland during 1576, were written by Robert Pont. He wrote a tract on chronology. Under the
name of Pontanus he published De Unione insiilcs Britannim, Edin. 1604, 8°. "At the convention of
"the kirk, halden in the kirk of Leith, on the 12th of January 157^, Maisler Robert Pont obtenit
" advyse of this convention to be senator of the College of Justice, provdding always that this their
" license to the said Mr. Robert be na preparative to na other minister to procure sic promotion, without
" the kirk's advyse had of before, and license obtained thereto." MS. Proceedings of the Kirk from
1560 to 1605, by Ja. Mellvil, in my library. Robert Pont died on the 8th of May 1608, aged 81.
Mait. Hist. Edin. 17'J.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 721

November 1591 (a). John Bothwell, the commendator of Holyroodhouse,
was appointed a judge in July 1593, in the room of the bishop of Orkney (b).
In November 1594, John Skene of Curriehill, who is still remembered for his
several publications of the old laws of Scotland, was appointed a senator in the
room of Alexander Hay of Easter Kennet (c). David Macgill of Cranston-
Eiddel succeeded the commendator of Culross in May 1597, at a period
which is noted for juridical corruption (d). Sir Lewis Craig of Wright's Houses
was appointed to this trust in 1604. Sir John Hamilton of Magdalen was
raised to the same bench in 1622; and Sir Archibald Napier of Merchiston,
the son of him who is celebrated for his discovery of the Logarithms, was
elevated to that trust in 1623. Sir Alexander Napier of Laurieston and James
Bannatyne of Newhall were both appointed to the same chai-ge in 1626 (e).
Sir James Macgill of Cranston-Riddel, which has been fruitful of lawyers, was
placed on the bench in 1629 (/). Sir John Hope of Craigiehall, Sir William
Scot of Clerkington, George Winram, and Sir Archibald Johnston of Warriston,
were all appointed senators during the long rebellion (g).

The reign of Charles II., like the reign of James I. in England, produced
in Scotland several lawyers of great knowledge and eloquence. Of these, the
foremost was Sir John Gilmour of Craigmillar, who was appointed in June
1661 the Lord President of a learned court (h). Sir Archibald Primi'ose of
Carrington, Sir James Macgill of Cranston, Sir James Foulis of CoUinton, were
all placed at the same time on the same honourable seat ({). Sir James

(n) Lord Hailes's Catalogue, p. 6. (b) lb., 7.

(o) lb., 7. It were to be wished, says the late Lord Hailes, that his knowledge of the Scottish
antiquities had been equal to his industry. He was keeper of the Scottish Eecords under the
name of Clerk Kegister. Melvil told King James, " that I would take with me on an embassy
" to Denmark, for a lawyer, Mr. John Skene. His majesty said he judged there were many
" better lawyers. I said he was best acquainted with the German customs, and could make
" them long harangues in Latin, and he was a good true stout man, like a Dutchman." lb., 12.
His son. Sir James Skene of Curriehill, was appointed a judge in June 1612, and rose to be president
in 1626.

(d) lb., 7-12. (e) lb., 8. (/) lb., 9.

(g) lb., 9-11. Sir Archibald Johnston of Warriston is one of those infamous men who stained
their country during that calamitous period by their fanaticism and treason. This man expiated
his crimes on the scaffold after the Eestoration had raised the sword of justice. lb., 19, and
Lord Hailes's note.

(/() The Catalogue, p. 12-21. The stand which he made (as an advocate) on behalf of the Marquis
of Argyle, says Lord Hailes, will ever be remembered to his honour.

722 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. V .—Edinburghshire.

Dundas of Arniston, who is the first of a series of illustrious lawyers who have
issued from that place, was appointed a judge in June 1662 ; and he resigned
in November 1665, as he could not take the test of a scrupulous age {h). Sir
James Foulis of Reidfurd was appointed to the same trust in 1674, in the room
of Sir Robert Preston, deceased. Sir John Maitland of Ravelrig and Sir
Robert Sinclair of Stevenstou were two of the judges whom Scotland owed to
the Revolution (/). Roderick Mackenzie of Prestonhall was appointed in
1703, Sir WilHam Calderwood of Polton m 1711, and Sir Walter Pringle of
Newhall in 17 IS (m). In the place of the last judge was nominated on the
10th of June 1737, Robert Dundas of Arniston, who was raised to the President's
chair in September 1748, and died on the 26th of August 1753 {n). Robert
Dundas of Arniston, who inherited the genius of his family and chose the
profession of his father, was called to the bar in 1738 ; appointed the King's
Solicitor in 1742 ; the Lord Advocate in 1755 ; and was elevated to the
President's chair on the 14th of June 1760 (o). The foregoing list is sufficient
to show how many eminent lawyers have been produced by Edinburghshire, for
the public advantage, of preventing wrong and distributing right.

But Edinburgh county and city have given rise to distinguished men in
literature, in science, and in the arts. They have supplied an enterprizing

(Ic) The Catalogue, 12. His son was placed in the same honourable list on the 1st of Noyember
1689. lb., 14.

(Z) lb., 14. ()«) lb.. 15-16.

(n) lb., 16-17. Of this eminent judge Lord Hailes remarks : The president Dalrymple said,
" I knew the great lawyers of the last age, Mackenzie, Lockhart, and my own father, Stair :
Dundas excels them all." lb., 26. I have seen, in the Paper OfiBce, Lord Arniston's Letter
to the Duke of Newcastle asking for the chair ; it is written in a very bad hand, but with all
the modesty of real merit. Charles Erskine, Lord Tinwald, was his competitor. On the 12th of
May 1748, the Duke of Newcastle wrote to General Bland, the commander of the troops in Scotland,
of his majesty's intention to promote Mr. Dundas of Arniston to be president of the session, in the
room of the late Mr. Forbes, to appoint Mr. Fletcher to be keeper of the signet for life, and Mr.
Ereskine of Tinwald to be lord justice clerk, upon the resignation of Mr. Fletcher. These promotions
were said to be made " for convincing every one that the king was determined to reward merit and
zeal for his service."

(o) lb., 17-35. He died on the 13th of December 1787 ; he was followed to his grave by
the whole magistrates and lawyers. When the Lord Advocate, Grant, asked for a seat upon
the bench on account of his health, the Duke of Newcastle was informed "that Mr. Craigie
" was the fittest to succeed him, that the next in fitness was Mr. Dundas, the late solicitor, a
" gentleman of great honour and abilities, and that the only other lawyer of any degree of fitness,
" who can be called a whig, is Mr. Henry Home," [the celebrated Lord Kaimes]. Documents in the
Paper OflBce.

Sect. Yl.—Tts Civil History.'] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 723

nation with statesmen and soldiers. Yet is it impossible in the limited space
which is here allowed to such inquiries to specify the various characters who
have dignified those districts by their birth, adorned them by their genius,
and widely diffused their literary fame by their ingenious labours.

In the meantime, the lower orders of men within Edinburghshire lived
amidst the wretchedness of slavery. The wars of rude ages which considered
captivity and servitude as the same, multiplied a wretched race {p). Such
bondmen were very common in this shire during the reign of David I., under
the name of Cumerlach, which, in the Northumbrian language of that age
conveyed the idea of misery (q). This state of villeinage certainly continued
in Scotland at the sad demise of Robert Bruce (r). This calamitous condition
of the lower orders existed particularly in Edinburghshire at that epoch (s).
The same state of society continued throughout every district of Scotland
during the whole reign of David II. (t). The same policy and its attendant
of misery remained in full vigour throughout the reign of Robert II. The
villeinage which we have thus seen existing at a recent period of the Scottish
history cannot be easily traced to its abolition. All vassalage and servitude
were abolished by a rough ordinance of Cromwell's legislative usurpation, (w).

§ VII. Of its Agriculture, Manufacture and Trade.'] Mid-Lothian, as we
have seen, is rather a mountainous country, interspersed, indeed, with fruitful
vales, and washed by a mighty river. Two thirds, however, of its ample area,
are supposed to be dedicated to tillage, or pasture, or wood. The successive
settlers here did not find it much cultivated at the various epochs of their
colonizations or conquests. Nor was the diversified surface much meliorated,
while it was frequently fought for by those dissimilar people.

Whensoever the operations of the plough may have begun in Mid-Lothian
during periods of warfare and of rudeness, agriculture had here made some
progress before the commencement, in 1097 of the Scoto-Saxon period. At
this epoch and for ages afterward, this great district was covered with

(^)) Hoveden, fol. 4.52, M. Paris Ed. Watts, p. 950 ; addit. p. 198.

(5) See the charters of David I., in the Frag. Scots Hist. App. No. i., ii.

(r) Tb., No. iii., which is a judicial declaration of the manumission of certain bondmen.

(.s) There is a charter of David de Crawford to the abbot and convent of Newbottle, granting, in
1327 all the escheats and amercements of certain lands, "et hominibus habitantibus in eisdem." Chart.
Newbottle, No. 158.

(f) See the charters of David II., in Robertson's Index to the Eecords.

(h) Scobell's Acts, 1654, ch. 9.

724 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

woods (?/). Near Edinburgh was the forest of Drumselgh, the Drumseugh of
modern times, wherein David I. encountered the stag ; the circumstance which,
if we may credit the legend, gave rise to the rehgious house of Holyrood (z).
Drumseilg, indeed, signifies in the GaeHc, the ridge of venison or of hunting.
From his demesne of Liberton, David conferred, among a thousand privileges,
on the monks of Holyrood, thirty cart-loads of brush-wood (or). Alexander II,
gave his forest of Gledehouse to the monks of Newbotle (6). Those woods
and forests supplied abundant shelter, pasturage, and mast, for numerous
brood-mares, cattle, sheep, and swine ; and pannage became an object of profit
and of care. Thei-e were vast pasturages on the Gala water (c). While the
feeding of flocks was pursued by the opulent, husbandry was followed by the
pool'. But David I. was the greatest farmer in Mid-Lothian. This admirable
prince had many agricultural establishments in this shire (d). Yet was
husbandry practised in that age without adequate knowledge and full effect.
Even David I. talked without emotion of the numbers of his sheep, which, in

(y) The maps of Lothian evince how many names of places were derived from the woodiness of the
soil ; and show how much woods abounded in Mid-Lothian during the Scoto-Sason period.

(z) Maitland's Edin., 143. The extensive common near Edinburgh, which was long known by the
name of the Burugh-moor, was covered with oaks as late as the demise of James IV. Drummond,
in mentioning the muster of his army, which he led to their fate on Flodden-field, says the Burugh-
moor, whereon they collected, was a spacious field, that was delightful from the shades of many aged
oaks. Hist. James's, 218.

(a) lb., 146. David I. granted to the monks of Newbottle some lands in Mid-Lothian, with a salt-
work, at Blackeland, and pannage, through all his forests, and wood from the same to construct their
buildings. Chart. Newbot., No. 28. This grant was confirmed by his son Henry and his grandson
William. lb.. No. 29-176.

(b) Chart. Newbottle, No. 127. In 1239 the same king granted to those monks the lands of
Morth-wait, and Glede-house, in Uberam forestam. lb., No. 32 and 128. Both those places lay on the
sources of the South Esk. in Temple parish. Alexander II. granted to the monks of Dunfenuline a
free ivarren throughout their lands of Musselburgh, prohibiting every one from hunting or trespassing
within the warren, on the penalty of £10. MS. Monast. Scotias. We may trace in the Chartularies
several other grants of free ivarren in Mid-Lothian during the 13th century.

(c) " Gala water even now," says Robertson, " abounds in sheep-walks, which are scarcely inferior
to the hills of Teviotdale." Agricult. Survey, 159.

{d) Charter of Holyrood, in Maitland's Edinburgh. From the reign of David I. to the days of
King' James VI., the agricultural changes in the royal possessions were numerous. The park of
Holyroodhouse paid of old 600 mutton bulks ; which park was replenished and reserved for keeping
his majesty's house ; with 600 stone of hay, which was accounted for in 1663 at 40s. for each mutton
bulk, and 23. for each stone of h.ty, amounting in all to £1,000. But the same is now disponed to Sir
James Hamilton as keeper thereof, who pays nothing for the same, though the former keeper paid
£1,000, as before mentioned. MS. Rental.

Sect. \ll.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 725

every year, died naturally from want (e). If so beneficent a prince did not
provide winter food for his herds, we may easily suppose how many of the
flocks of his subjects perished every spring from the diseases which penury
produces. The people were too often exposed during those rude times, to
the inconvenience of plenty and to the miseries of famine. The next greatest
farmers to the king were the abbots, who possessed vast herds and cultivated
many granges by their villeyns. The barons, in their several degrees of rank
and of opulence, were the next greatest farmers to the abbots. As every church
had its hamlet, so every baronial house had its villagers, who followed the
plough during peace, and drew their swords in support of the baron in war.
Thus every hamlet was inhabited by husbandmen, who tilled the adjacent fields,
and pastured their flocks on the extensive commons, which to every district
belonged (/) ; and from this circumstance it became, in those times, an
established right for every person to enjoy common of pasturage throughout his
own parish.

During ages of rudeness, however, when the track of warfare was constantly
marked by devastation, agriculture could not, uninl^eiTuptedly, follow her
laborious course. The lower orders of men, as they were the bondmen rather
than the tenants of the landowners, laboured vmwillingly for others, rather
than freely for themselves. Under such a state of society, while coins were
few and circulation was unknown, it was impossible that the tillers of the
earth could possess sufficient capital for enabling them to follow their ploughs
with advantage to the nation or profit to themselves. Under those inabilities
of means, the landlords, copying the example of the freeholders of England,
found it necessary to furnish the tenant with stock, which he rented as well as
the land, and which the tenant was obliged to restore when he delivered up
the farm to the owner of both. The stock, which thus accommodated both
parties, was called, in the law of Scotland, steelbow-goods. The practice of
steelhow, indeed, is still known in this shire, though the origin of the term
seems to be forgotten [g). It required a long progression of quiet industry, as
well as attentive economy, to carry up the value of agricultural capital from
nothing, in the wretched age of steelhow, to the flourishing period of 1795,

(«) Charter of Holyrood.

(f) Adam of Swanyston granted various parcels of land to tLe hospital of Soltre with common of
pasture, with a reservation, however, to his own men of the right of common in all the commons and
ot'ier easements belonging to Swanyston. Chart. Soltre, 19-20-31.

{(/) Wood's Hist, of Cramond, 98 ; Eobertson's View of Mid-Lothian Agriculture, 59.
4 4 Y

726 AnACCOUNT [Ch. V Edinburghshire.

when there were employed in the agriculture of Edinburghshire, £508,750
Sterling {h).

When, with new men, a very different policy began at the Scoto-Saxon
period, eveiy manor had its mill as we have already seen. David I., the
greatest farmer of his kingdom, possessed many a mill (i). The nobles and
ecclesiastics, who followed his agi'icultural example, had also many mills, as
we may learn from the chartularies {k), and from the increase of the number of
mills, through every age, we may infer the progress of agriculture. During the
same ages there also were, in every manor, a malt-kiln and a brewery, as we
know from the chartularies.

There is reason to infer, from the facts that are recorded in the chartularies,
that the practice of horticulture began as early as the pursuits of agriculture.
David I., who gave so many salutary lessons to his people, also showed them
an example of gardening. He speaks, in his charter of Holyrood, of his garden
under the castle. The royal gardens of Edinburgh were objects of care during
the disastrous reign of David II. (I), and horticulture was generally practised
in Mid-Lothian during the Scoto-Saxon period. The monks of Newbottle
received tithes from the gardens as early as the reign of Alexander 11. (wi).
As early as the year 1202, there was a garden at Locherwart, on the Upper

(A) Robertson's View, 213.

{{) David I. speaks of his new mill of Edinburgh, and of his mills of Dene and Liberton, in
his charter of Holyrood ; and he gave the monks of that house a right to erect a mill on their
lands, a privilege which could not be enjoyed without a grant. See his charter in Maitland's
Edinburgh.

(Jc) Alan of Swintun took to farm of the Abbot of Dunfermline within his manor of Musselburgh,
the site of a mill on the Water of Esk, on the west part opposite to the abbot's mill of Wythenoc, with
common of pasture for the horses which might bring the corn to the mill, paying yearly one mark of
money at the two terms, and stipulating that he should not injure the abbot's mill, but uphold the
same in case of injury. Chart. Dunferm.

(/) David II. appointed Malcolm Pagainson the keeper of his gardens at Edinburgh. Roberts,
Index, 39. The royal garden was in 1680 converted into a physic garden, vrith a proper salary
to a skilful botanist. Maitl. Edin., 154. James Sutherland, who published in 1683 a learned
catalogue of "the plants in the physic garden at Edinburgh," was probably the first intemlayit of
the said garden. When this able man ceased to cultivate botany is uncertain ; but he was
succeeded in 1710 by George Preston, as superintendent of the physic garden; and Preston was
followed in 1716 by the late Dr. Alston, as professor of botany and as superintendent of the
physic garden at Edinburgh. The lectures on botany generally began in the physic garden at
the end of May and continued till the end of the season. See the advertisement in the Edinburgh
Courant.

(m) Chart. Newbot., 250 ; Lord Hailes's Canons.

Sect. VII.— /te Agriculture, etc.'] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 727

Tyne [n). During the reign of James III., even the poorest tenants of the
moorlands in Mid-Lothian had their gardens, which supplied them with kail.
In March 1479, the tenants of Crosswood pursued in parliament Sir John
Sandilands of Calder, for a trespass on their possessions, when the lords
adjudged him to pay to each eight shillings for the kail which he had destroyed
in their kail-yards (o). Before the accession of King James, gardens were
universal in Mid-Lothian {p). During his reign it became the practice to
pillage the gardens of Mid-Lothian [q).

In addition to all those agricultural pui'suits during those early ages, there
were other objects of rural profits. Petaries for fuel, became, as early as the
reign of David I., the frequent objects of request and of grant (r). The
collieries and quarries of Inveresk and Tranent were worked perhaps as
early as the reign of William the Lion. The monks of Newbottle, as we have
already seen, had the merit of discovering and working coal at Preston in
East-Lothian, before the accession of Alexander II. (s). This useful practice
must have soon been introduced into the adjacent shire, which abounds with

(«.) Chart. Scone, No. 43. There was an old orchard at Gilmerton before the year 1607. Inquis.
Special Edin., 226. In 1603 the tenements in the Cowgate of Edinburgh had gardens belonging to
them. lb., 107. The tenements in Leith had also their gardens in 1609. lb., 271.

(o) Pari. Eec, 248.

{p) Chart. Newbot., 292-4 ; Inquis. Spec. Edin. On the 25th of May 1338, Henry de Brad
granted to the monks of Newbottle the meadow called iiiediespeth, and the well in it, and the
garden called Stotfauld, and the common use of his moor, with his peatary for fuel. Chart.
Newbot., 65.

(5) In 1625, John Rait and Alexander Dean were hanged for stealing from the gardens of Barnton,
Pilton, and other places various herbs and bee-hives. Arnot's Grim. Trials, 305. At Edinburgh, in
1683, John Eeid published his Scots Gard'ner. We may learn, from the advertisements in the
Caledonian Mercury, that soon after the seedsmen of Edinburgh began to import garden seeds from
abroad of the freshest and choicest kind.

(r) Chart. Newbot., 27. Towards the end of the 12th century, David de Lyne gi-anted to the
monastery of Newbottle the petary of Locherwart, which was called Ulnestruther, with a sufficient
space on his land of Locherwart to dry the fuel, and free passage through his ground to carry the
petes. lb., 23. A similar grant was made to the same monastery by David de Lisurs, the Lord of
Goverton. lb., 43. Herbert, the abbot of Kelso, granted to Reginald de Bosco his whole land of
Estir-Dodinestum "cum medietatem /)e<ane de Oamerun ; '' yielding for the same yearly ten marks of
silver, and performing to the king the usual services. Chart. Kelso, 453-4.

(.9) See before, p. 486 ; Chart. Newbot., 72. At the accession of King James, there were collieries
at Duddingston, at Gilmerton, in the barony of Newbottle, in the barony of Broughton, at Woolmet,
and at other places. See the Inquisit. Special Edin. In December 1764, the coalpits at Woobnet
were supernatiirally dried up. Scots Mag., 686.

728 An ACCOUNT ICh.Y.— Edinburghshire.

coal ; and in after times, collieries were everywhere opened, and worked to the
advantage of the country and the profit of the owners.

William and his immediate successors tried, by salutary regulations, to
promote the practice of a better husbandry (s). The reign of Alexander III. is
celebrated, after the factions of his minority had ceased, for its quiet and its
plenty : " swd wes corne in his land enwche, with sons of ale and brede (<)."

But sad scenes of domestic strife and foreign hostilities ensued " when
Alyxandyr cure kyng wes dede." A war of seventy years began in 1296,
and ended with 1366, during which hostility and destruction were the same.
The waste of that course of conflicts cannot be easily calculated ; yet may we
estimate the loss, with some degree of accuracy, from a consideration of the
amount of the old and new extents within this shire, which we have already
seen (u). The war of the competition for the crown was succeeded by domestic
feuds, by the hostilities of the Reformation, by the conflicts of the fanatics,
which ended with the war of the Revolution. England long felt the enmities
of the Roses : Scotland scarcely recovered from the devastation and the penury
which were the necessary efiects of those successive wars, even to our own times.

Of the various accommodations of agi'iculture, easy communications are
deemed of the greatest consequence. The earliest roads in Mid-Lothian were
undoubtedly made by Roman hands. During the Scoto-Saxon period, the king's
high-ways are often mentioned in the chartularies as local boundaries («),

(s) See their statutes in Skene's old laws. Pail. Eec, 5.

(t) Wyntownis Chron., i., 400-1. Wyntoun states the price, at that epoch, of a boUe of atis, at
pennys foure of Seottis mone ; a bolle of bere at awcht or ten ; a boUe of whete at sextene, as at
twenty pennys the derth was grete. But it may be doubted if those prices can be strictly applied to
the reign of Alexander III. There was no Scutiis mane in that age ; all was sterling, of the same
value as the coins of England.

(«) In the chartularv of Newbottle there are various documents, granting the monks several abate-
ments of the rents which they paid for lands and salt-works, on account of the devastations of the
direful war. of the oppressive wars. We might hence infer that the value of lands must have been
very low during the 14th century : Edward de Lestalrig granted to the nuns of North-Berwick a toft
in Leith and three acres of land at Greenside, which they leased for ever to the monks of Newbottle
for the yearly rent of half a mark of legal money, Chart. Newbot., 57-8. The same property was
granted by the monks in fee to Symon de Daynotre for eleven shillings sterling yearly, during the
reign of James IV. lb., 285.

{x) Under Alexander III., a charter of Sir Hugh Eiddel mentions the regiam viam, which led from
the village called Ford to the monastery of Newbottle. Chart. Newbot., 22. The king's highway,
which leads from that monastery to Edinburgh, is mentioned in another of the year 1253. lb., 16.
Gervaise, the abbot, mentions in his charter a certain road which was called Derstrette, near Colden, in
the district of Inveresk. lb., 1G3.

Sect. YU.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 729

David I. recognizes several roads in the charter of Holyrood ; yet for ages
afterward, county, parish and cross roads, were but few and founderous (a).
The first statutes with regard to highways, are said to have been made under
David II. The year 1714 is supposed to be the epoch of turnpike-roads in
this shire, when improvements are asserted to have begun (b). The true epoch
of the first road act for Scotland is 1555. The year 1750 is the era of the first
turnpike act, which was made by the united parliament for Haddingtonshire.
This law probably led on to the passing of an act in the subsequent year, "for
repairing the high roads in the county of Edinburgh, to and from the city of
Edinburgh (c)," and it is from the year 1751 that we may date the commod-
iousness and the extent of the roads in Mid-Lothian, at whatever expense to
the public or the traveller.

Connected with roads are wheel-carriages. These useful vehicles are said
not to have been used for the purposes of husbandry in Mid-Lothian till the
recent accession of George I. (d). Yet are carts mentioned by David I. in

(fl) The monks of Newbottle had several lands in Clydesdale, and in order to have easy access
to those distant granges they obtained from various proprietors in Mid and West Lothian,
special grants of free passage through their estates between Newbottle and Clydesdale. Chart.
Newbot., 218 to 227 and 240. Those grants evince that the communications between Lothian
and Clydesdale were difficult. In 1214 Thomas de Lestalrig granted a confirmation to the monks
of Inchcolm of some lands in villa de Leiik, which he describes as lying on the south " altce stratce
inter Edinburgum et Leith." Chart. Inchcolm, 16. Yet it is supposed that there were no
wheel-carriages at Leith in 1602. In 1612 causeways were ordered to be made about Edinburgh.
Maitland, 58.

(6) Robertson's Agricult. Survey, 178. The act which is alluded to above is 12 An. ch. 10,
private. This was followed by the Act of 5 Geo. I., ch. 30, for confirming all the laws made in Scot-
land, before the Union, concerning the repairing of highways, bridges, and ferries.

(c) 24 Geo. II., ch. 35. During the disturbed reign of Charles II. there had been made
several statutes for the making or mending of roads, which, at least, evince the general con-
viction of the importance of road-making to domestic economy. In 1688 there were no footways
in the city of Edinburgh, which the magistrates endeavoured to remedy by directing the citizens
to lay before their tenements large flat stones. Maitl. Edin., 108. Even during the reign of King
James, the legislature paid some attention to the comity bridges. In 1587 an act was passed for
repairing Cramond brig. Unprinted Act. This was followed by another for the same object in 1607.
Id. In 1594 there was an act passed concerning the brig of Dalkeith. Unprinted Act. There
was another for supporting this brig in 1663. Id. In 1670 there was an act imposing a duty
for upholding the brig of Dalkeith. Unprinted Act. In 1597 there was an act passed for repairing
the brig of Musselburgh. Unprinted Act. And in 1661 there was passed another law "for an
imposition at the bridge of Musselburgh." Unprinted Act. Such were the endeavours of the legis-
lature to repair the several bridges of Edinburghshire.

(d) Robertson's Survey, 178.

730 AnACCOUNT [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

his charter of Holyrood, and the chartularles are crowded with notices of the
villeyn-services which were performed by the husbandmen to the monks in
wheel-camages, upwards of five centuries and a half before the epoch which
has thus been mistakingly assigned them (e). The most common wheel-
carriages during the 13th and the 12th centuries, were the waggon, or wayne,
which was drawn by oxen, that were then commonly used for every agricultural
purpose (y). The epoch of the first public coach which was proposed to run
between Edinburgh and Leith was the year 1610 (g). The second project
for the same purpose was adopted in 1660 by the town council of Edinburgh,
who licensed Woodcock to set up a coach to run between Edinburgh and
Leith (/i). In 1684 the town council ordered two coaches to be bought at
London for the use of the magistrates, considering how much expense the
town had paid in coach-hire for the use of their bailies (i) ; so slow is the
progress of introducing efiectually the most obvious accommodations into general
practice (k).

Neither the wastefid wars nor the many changes in the ownership of the soil
during the reign of Robert Bruce admitted of a flourishing husbandry. The
hostilities, the distractions, and the debility of the age of his feeble successor,
admitted of no favourable alteration ua this respect (l). ' Some other acts of the

(e) Yet is it certain that David II. granted to John Tennand the lands of Laureston in Cramond,
with forty creils of peits. Eoberta. Index, 60. Cartwheels were an article of import from Flanders
during the reign of James I., who was assassinated in 1437. Hakluyt's Voyages.

(/) Their was a suit decided by the lords auditors in parliament on the 22nd of March 1503-4,
by Dame Elspeth, the widow of Sir Thomas Tod, burgess of Edinburgh, against James Farley of
Braid, for detaining 42 marks Scots money, 12 oxen, a wayne, a horse, a plough, two hai'rows, 6 bolls
of meal, 3i ells of russet at 46s. 8d., two ells of welvous of the value of £5, and 5 ells of lawn of the
value of 50s. Pari. Rec, 499.

In) The king granted a licence to Henry Anderson of Tralsound, in Pomerania, to bring from thence
to Scotland a number of coaches and waggons with horses, for the purpose of transporting persons
between Edinburgh and Leith ; taking for each person the fare of two shillings Scots money. Privy
Seal Record, Ixxix. This project was not probably carried into effect. Queen Anne brought with
her from Denmark, in 1590, the first coach.

{h) Maitl. Edin., 97. The whole fare of the coach was settled at Is., and of each person at 4d.

(i) lb., 105. From 1721 to 1726 it was the common practice to advertise a coach returning
to London from Edinburgh for the conveyance of passengers. See the Edin. Courant of
those times.

Uc) The Edinburgh Almanack shows how many coaches now run from Edinburgh in all directions
every day.

(/) The low prices of every thing which was connected with agriculture evince the wretched
condition of the husbandmen. The following are the prices, from the chamberlain's accounts of

Sect. VII.— 7;s Agriculture, etc.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 731

parliament of James I. cast additional light on agricultural affairs during his
reign {h). The statutes of the parliaments of James II. evince a knowledge of
legislation and an ambition to promote the agriculture of the kingdom, which
are very remarkable (i). During the mild reign of James III., the quiet removal
of tenants at the usual terms was provided for (Jc). In April 1481, it was
enacted, with great attention to the poor commons as well as to the gentry, that
no one coming to the king's host should waste the meadows or destroy the
corns ; nor should make spoil of any manner of goods (I). During the traitor-
ous year 1482, the insidious war with England created great waste of corn and
cattle, and famine thereupon ensued, which caused many deaths (m). Those

1329 ; A horse, 13s. 4d. ; an ox, 10s. ; a sheep, 14d. to 2s. ; a swine, 6s. 8d. ; a stone of cheese, Is. ;
a boll of meal. Is. 7d. ; a boll of barley, 2s. 5d. ; a boll of oats, lid. ; a boll of white pease, 2s. 4d.
Such were the articles and the prices in 1329. Compare with them the articles and prices of the
year 1424, at the distance of almost a century, from Ruddiman's Diplomata : A boll of wheat, 2s. ; a
boll of rye, barley, or pease. Is. 4d.; aboil of oats, 6d, ; an ox, 6s. 8d. ; a horse, 13s. 4d. The parlia-
ment of May 1424 ordained taxes to be raised upon cattle and corn, for paying the king's ransom.
The several articles were then valued as follows, as we may learn from the Parliamentary Record, 9 :
The boll of wheat, 2s. ; the boll of rye, bear, and pease. Is. 4d. ; the boll of oats, 6d. ; a cow, and her
follower of two years, 6s. 8d. ; a draught ox, of three years old, 63. 8d. ; the wedder, and the ewe,
12d. ; gimmers, dimmounts, and goats, 12d. ; the wild mare, with her follower of three years old,
10s.; colts of three years, 13s. 4d. The same parliament of May 1424 passed an act against
rooks breeding in the trees of church-yards and orchards, as they consumed the corn. Pari.
Rec, 10.

(hi) The export of horses under three years old was prohibited. Pari. Rec, 12. The sellers of
haij and fodder within the burghs were prohibited from going into the Aay-house with a candle
without a lantern. lb., 17. In May 1426, it was enacted that every husbandman tilling with a plough
of eight oxen be required to sow at least a firlot of wheat and half a firlot of pease, with a proportion
of beans. Every baron was required to sow the same quantities of grain, under a large for-
feiture to the king. lb., 18. In 1439 was the dear summer, for the boll of meal was 24s, the boll
of malt 26s. 8d., and the boll of wheat 30s. ; and many died for hunger. Chron. at the end of
Wyntoun.

(i) In January 1449-50, an act was passed, " for protecting the poor commons that till the ground. "^
Their possessions and their leases were declared to remain, though the landlord might sell the soil.
Pari. Rec., 31. The scarcity induced, and the parliament ordained, that all manner of corn should be
threshed before the last of May. No one was allowed to hoard. Pari. Rec, 35. In July 1454, the
importation of victual was encouraged. Id. In March 1458, the parliament required all landholders
to let their lands in fee-farm. It was then ordained that all the tenants should be obliged to plant
woods, hedges, and broom ; and that hedges should be made with living wood ; that every one having
a plough of eight oxen should sow certain quantities of corn ; and that rooks and crmrs building in
orchards and other places should be destroyed. lb., 43.

(h) lb., 177. on the 20th of November, 1469. (/) lb., 268.

(m) The old Chron. at the end of Wyntoun ; Pari. Rec, 358.

i^fi AnACCOUNT [Ch. y.— Edinburghshire.

various measures of those several reigns, wretched as they were, may seem to
mark a progress of improvement. But what useful husbandry could exist
when the neighbouring barons might oppress with impunity the king's tenants,
when the weak might be oppressed by the strong (n). The parliament enforced
in 1504, the act for the encouragement of letting to lease the lands In fee-farm (o).
As far as this measure had a tendency to give permanence to possession it laid
a strong ground for real improvement. The practice of enclosing was at the
same time enforced (p), and punishments were provided for those who stole
fish, pigeons, bee-hives, or other articles from orchards, parks, or other
privileged places {q). The frequent returns of scarcity and of famine seem
to show the bad state of the agriculture after all those legislative measures of
encouragement or at least px-otection. But those various means were ob-
structed by the still more terrible times which ensued. The minority of James
Y., the reign of Mai-y Stewart, the infancy of her son, and the civil wars of
her grandson, Charles I., were all periods of lasting waste (r).

MeUoration of the means of conveyance is undoubtedly a great object. In
tracing the improvements of agriculture we mtist always advert to the condition
of the people whether happy or adverse. The emancipation of the villeyns
during the progress of the 15th century, was certainly a great step in genuine
melioration. Yet what could this change avail during wretched times, arising
from foreign and domestic wars ; from the propensity of the strong to oppress
the weak ; from the want of protection to persons ; from the insecurity of
property, owing to the prevalence of wrong rather than the administration of
right. In this view of the subject, the establishment of the College of Justice
in 1532 was an important measure for making both persons and property

(re) An act was passed in February 1489-90, during the first year of James IV., " for protecting
the king's tenants from oppression." Pari. Rec, 866. During the preceding reign we have seen the
tenants of Crosswood apply to parliment for redi-ess against the violence and spoliation of Sir James
Sandilands. lb., 247-8.

(o) lb., 493. {p) Id-

(o) lb., 492. James IV. was active to introduce horses and mares from Spain, and also from
Poland. Epist. Reg. Soot., i., 98-9. James V. was equally active to introduce horses for the stud
from Denmark and Sweden. lb., ii., 36-7 ; and Pitscottie tells, 279, that James V. brought home
from Denmark great horses and mares, and put them in parks, that their ofifspring might be ready to
sustain wars in time of need.

(r) The very laws which were made dui-ing successive reigns for protecting the tillers of the soil
from spoil, are the best proofs of the deplorable state of the husbandmen. How could
agriculture flourish if the farmers were occupied with domestic war throughout a period of
twenty years !

SeetYlI.— Its Agriculture, etc.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 733

more safe. What availed the making of the best laws, if the people were not
prepared to derive any advantage from them ; if the rulers were not in a con-
dition to enforce them ; and if, at the end of many a year of misery, the insur-
rections of the Reformation and the rebellion of the Covenant left the nobles
and people in a miserable state of complete exhaustion, without property
or the means of acquiring it, without habits of application or desire of
settlement.

Such was the disastrous state of Scotland at the epocli of the Restoration.
In vain did the parliament meet to make the most salutary laws, while the
government was severe from a sense of weakness, and the populace were
mutinous from their ignorance of what they owed to themselves and the state.
The first parliament of Charles II., which assembled at Edinburgh m January
1661, enacted many laws upon the narrow principles of the mercantile system,
which ought to have made the people industrious and rich, if positive statute
could obtain such desireable objects. An act was now passed " for planting
and inclosing ground," yet there seems to have been no provision made
for carrying that salutary measure into real effect. A ruined people demanded
a law " for protecting debtors," and another " for reducing the interest of
money." These laws may have given the debtors some respite, but it did not
give them capital. As it was designed to make the people manufactui-ers, a law
was passed " against the import of ready made ivares," and another for erecting
manufactories. These were immediately followed by various acts for pre-
venting the export of linen yarn, woollen yarn, and of skins, for making linen
and stuffs and soap. Add to all those which were also passed, a navigation act
and an act for fishings. The pai'liament plainly meant well, but the populace
did not concur in those useful objects. They were not "dull sublunary lovers."
They had set their heart on the Covenant, on Conventicles, on everything
except their temporal advantage; and the preachers having an interest to
delude them, left the legislators alone to devise prudential measures of
political economy (s).

Subsequent parliaments were not discouraged, though the populace and
their preachers became more frantic. In the session of June 1663, the Estates
endeavoured to promote the rebuilding of ruinous houses in burghs, to
incite the practice of agriculture, by passing an act for encouraging tillage and
pasturage, by making a law to allow the export of com and to prevent the
import of strong loaters ; and they enacted another law for imposing a duty on

(s) See the several statutes of the first parliament of Charles II.
4 4 Z

734 AnACCOUNT [Oh. V .—Edinburghshire.

the impoi-t of Irish co^-n, which was afterwards prohibited. Domestic manufac-
tures were again encouraged, by discouraging the introduction of EngHsh com-
modities, and by exempting from duty the materials of manufacture. Foreign
commerce was promoted by appointing a council of trade, by empowering the
king to regulate traffic with foreign states ; and in order that every one
might have the means of engaging advantageously in agriculture, in manufac-
tures, and in commerce, the export of money was 'prokihited. Beggars and
vagabonds were at the same time denounced as enemies to the industry which
was so much desired, and was so hard to obtain. In addition to all those
legislative measures, which are so plausible in theory, markets on the Mondays
and Saturdays were prohibited, as they might possibly interfere with the
practice of piety. Other parhaments passed other statutes of a similar
tendency, before the religious delusions of James VII. brought on the Revolution.
The legislative regulations of King William's parliament did not balance the
effects of his wars, foreign and domestic, on the political economy of a harassed
people. The progi-ess of melioration from all those measures of encouragement,
can scarcely be traced in the long period extending from the Reformation to
the Revolution, either on the surface of the soil or in the practices of the
people (t).

The true epoch of improvement in Edinburghshire, and indeed, in Scotland,
may be marked by the year 1723, when the Society of Improvers was formed
at Edinburgh, who gave instructions and examples to the people (w). The
nobihty and gentry, when they had no longer religion or politics to occupy

(t) In vain did projectors propose their discoveries for the benefit of the dispirited husband-
men. On the 23rd of October 1598, the laird of Makerstoun advertised that he could make land
more fruitful b>/ sowing it with salt. Birrel's Diary, 47. On the 12th of April 1725, Higgins
and his copartners began to sell their manure, for improving of ground, at one shilling sterling
a bushel. See the Caledonian Mercury, No. 787. In 1723 was published another edition of
Lord Belhaven's Advice to the farmers, which contains some useful hints. The spirit of improve-
ment was now roused and active. In 1718 the irhite wheat of Cleaveland was introduced into Lothian.
Edin. Conrant, No. 99. In 1723 a new ingredient for preparing the seed was frequently advertised
by John Dickson. He appears to have had rivals, who were called upstarts. Caledonian Mercury, No.
526. 549, 553.

(u) The Society of Improvers held many meetings. They resolved, in 1725, to discourage the use
of foreign spirits, to obtain skilful distillers, and to erect manufactories of corn in proper places.
Caled. Mercury, No. G94 ; Courant, No. 899. We here see the original introduction of distilleries
upon a large scale. The society published, for the benefit of the farmers, a Treatise on fallowing,
on raising grass, on training lint and hemp. Caled. Mercury, No. 722. They promoted the linen
manufacture ; and in May 1729, an ox, six feet four inches high, was sold in the Canongate market.
Courant, No. 644.

Sect. Yn.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 735

them, found an amusement in cultivating their domains and in teaching the
tenantry to improve their farms (x). The great defects of that age were the
want of proper tenures and adequate capital. It was reserved for other im-
provers in more recent times to supply both, and the result has been, after
various efforts, to carry up the agricultural practice of this well-tilled shire to
possible perfection (y).

It is, however, of importance to trace some of those means which enabled
the husbandmen to carry forward their agricultural affairs from inconsiderable
beginnings, in a regular progress to great perfection. The first class of men
in modern times who distinguished themselves as active improvers, were the
nobility and gentry as we have just seen. The next classes of men were the
learned professions ; the lawyers and physicians of Edinburgh, and the country
clergy, who turned their talents and attention from their proper business to
agricultural pursuits (z). The first person who is recorded as the earliest im-
prover in this shire was Sir John Dick of Prestonfield, who being provost of
Edinburgh at the Revolution, transferred the sweepings of the streets to his own
fields (a). But this was said without consideration, as early as 1630, Sir James
Macgill had shown the benefit of manure and the practice of obtaining it
from Edinburgh (b). Sir John Dalrymple of Cousland, the grandfather of the
present baronet, was the first improver who introduced the sowing of
turnips and the planting of cabbages in the fields. He was among the
first who sowed clover and rye grass, and he also greatly improved the
breed of horses and cattle (c). Hamilton of Fala set the example of enclosing
his estate by hedge and ditch, and by sheltering his fields with clumps of

(i) Lord Belhaven, in his very erudite dedication of his Address, in 1723, to the young nobility
and gentry, says, I must confess I am very well satisfied to see so much industry of late about the
dwelling-houses of most of the nobility and gentry within Scotland. His lordship added a sentiment,
which it would be injurious to suppress : " Husbandry enlarges a country, and makes it as if you had
conquered another country adjacent ; and, I am sure, a conquest by the spade and the plough is both
more just and of longer continuance than what is got by sword and bow."

(y) Robertson's Gen. View of the Agriculture of Mid-Lothian.

(i) Wight's Survey of Edinburghshire, 1778.

(a) Stat. Acco. of Duddingston. The fact is. however, that John Eeid, the Scots gardener, said in
1683, "there is no way under the sun so probable for improving our land as enclosing and planting
the same ; therefore, I wish it were effectually put in practice." This ingenious improver was born at
Niddrie, in this shire.

(b) He entertained daily ten horses for carrying muck to Wester-Drylaw, in Cramond parish, from
Edinburgh, for the goading of his land, besides procuring lime at a great expense. Wood's
Cramond, 97.

736 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y— Edinburghshire.

planting, and this intelligent improver incited a similar spirit of rational
improvement among the neighbouring gentlemen {d). Thomas Hope of
Rankeillor, who had learned the art of farming in England and Flanders, and
was the father of the society of improvers, distinguished himself during its
existence, as a very intelligent and active improver (e). But, above all, the
several members of that society residing about Edinburgh, by their example
as well as their precepts, began to give a more advantageous form to agricul-
tural affairs {/). One of the first measures recommended and enforced by
that society to the attention of farmers, was summer fallowing, with a rotation
of barley, wheat and pease (g). There is reason to believe that tlie practice
of fallowing had been understood two centuries before, though it had not been
skilfully employed. The benefit of manure had been shown by the practice of
Sir John Dick, but it was reserved for that society to recommend marie. Yet
few had adopted this manure, owing to the expense and to the shortness of
the leases ; and they proposed this last disadvantage to the consideration of the
landlords. The society next recommended the sowing of turnips. At the
epoch of the Union, the cultivation of that useful root was confined to the
gardens for kitchen use (h) ; but from the recommendation of the society
and the fitness of the measure, the turnip husbandry was soon transferred to
the fields, as it was generally approved. There was, however, nothing said by
the society's treatise about potatoes. The first cultivation of this very important
root to the sustenance of life, is said to have been transferred from the gardens to
the fields about the year 1744 {i). But improvers strenuously recommended

(d) Stat. Acco., s., 602. (e) Transac. Soc. Improvers, Ded. vii.

(/) See their Transac. by Maxwell, 5. Among those eminent improvers ought to be men-
tioned, with just praise, James Small of Ford, in this shire, who has improved and brought
to perfection the plough, the great instrument of the best husbandry. Stat. Acco., xiii. 626 ;
lb., is. 283.

((/) Their Treatise of fallowing, 1724.

(/() Sutherland's Catalogue ; the Buccleuch Household Book.

(i) Robertson's General View, 67, wherein the potato is said not to have been long before
cultivated in gardens. Yet the Virginia potatoes were in Sutherland's Catalogue. In the Scots
Gardener of John Eeid, 1683, there are directions for planting potatoes. It is a fact that potatoes
were not planted in the fields when the society published their Treatise on fallowing, in 1724 ;
for Wilson, the quaker, in writing to Thomas Hope of Rankeillor on this subject, says, " if you
had in Scotland the method of planting potatoes with the plough, you need not lose that
year's crop." Transactions of the Society, 1.54. As early as December 1720, the largest and
firmest potatoes were brought to Scotland from Stoughton, in England. They were sold at
29. 8d. per bushel. Advertisements in the Caledonian 3ferc«ry, No. 616, etc. The cultivation of

Sect. VII.— fc Agriculture, etc.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 737

what was of equal importance to the animal world, the sowing of grass-seeds,
a practice which had recently been begun, and successfully adopted ; yet was
it declined by some farmers, who were of opinion that every new practice
brought with it great charge and much labour, attended with some disappoint-
ments. Such objections the improvers answered by remarking what shows the
agricultural state of those times. The farmers in Scotland being in use to
labour their grounds at a much smaller expense and with less industry than
they do in England, were content with a very small return ; so that they con-
tinued to labour their grounds for corn till it was reduced to absolute sterility,
which may be said of soil when it does not render three fold ; but in England,
grounds are regarded as unfit for tillage when they render less than Jive fold (a).
Such, then, are the instructive intimations which show at once the misery of
the old modes, and the importance of what is called the rotation of crops, which
relieve the soil and enrich the husbandman. We may easily suppose that the
advantage of a rotation being once acknowledged, every one adopted such
a sequence of sowing the species of corn or vegetable as was most suitable to
the soU or convenient to his circumstances. While the spirit of the farmers
was thus roused at the epoch of that society in 1723, and their efforts directed
to the most advantageous methods and profitable crops, we hear little of the
means by which additional expenses were to be defrayed. The society, instead
of proposing how capital was to be provided for so many projects, only intimate
to the landlords that the tenants ought to be considered in the length of their
leases and the moderation of their terras. The Bank of Scotland had, how-
ever, existed since the year 1695. It had been in operation during eight-and-
twenty years of difficult times, and the result had hitherto been that the bank
stock had not been very profitable to the proprietors nor beneficial to the people,
owing to the inability of both to profit from each other (b).

potatoes by the plough in the fields was soon after introduced, as we may learn from Maxwell's
observations on the quaker's letter. Transactions of the Society, 171-2. Yet in a Treatise by
John Fraser, published at Edinburgh in 1757, containing directions how to raise potatoes, he
says, " the farmers have of late got into the method of raising the red potato by the plough in
" the richest of their grounds ; whence people have taken occasion (among the many assigned
" causes of dearth) to say, that since potatoes became so plenty, there has never been a cheap
"peck of meal." When Wight surveyed this shire in 177S, he found the potato husbandry com-
pletely established, and the universal conviction of its great utility to the grower and consumer
fully settled.

(a) The society's Treatise on fallowing, 35-6.

(4) On the 5th of April 1722, the adventurers of the bank, at a general meeting, resolved that a
dividend of profits for the year byegone should be 2^ per cent, upon the company's capital stock.

738 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

While the improvers of Edinburghshire had not yet learned to provide capital
for every exigency, it was important to abridge labour and improve machinery.
It is not exactly ascertained what improver it was who first tilled with two horse
ploughs instead of four. Two clergymen, Doctor Carlyle of Inveresk, and
Doctor Grieve of Dalkeith, claim the merit of this practice about the year
1768. Reflecting on the practice of the ancients, and " having observed the
wheel plough with two horses driven by one man, successfully used for some
years ivithin the park of Dalkeith," resolved to make trial of that method on
their own farms though of a strong clay soil (c). They were laughed at by
the fai-mers for doing that with little expense which they did themselves with
great. But this laughter did not last long. When it was generally perceived
that better crops were raised by fewer means, the practice of two horse ploughs
was gradually adopted in all the Lothians ; while the instrument itself was
amended and supplied at a lower price by Small, the plough-maker of Dal-
keith (d). We may thus perceive, however, that this useful practice began
within the park of Dalkeith, where it may have been often seen by the farmers
without desire of imitation. It is impossible to quit Dalkeith without concur-
ring in the general applause which is willingly paid to the present Duke of
Buccleuch, for his protection of the arts, for his practices of husbandry, for his
improvements of agriculture, which are permanently useful in themselves as
they are beneficial to the public.

The city of Edinburgh partook of the general spirit. The town council
endeavoured to obtain the improvement of the Burgh-loch, or Common-myre,
forming a part of the Burgh-moor, lying southward of the city for a gi'eat
extent. In 1658 the Burgh-loch with its marshes were let to John Stratton
for nineteen years. The city, in September 1722, let the same waste to
Thomas Hope of Rankeillor on an improving lease of 57 years, paying yearly
£66 13s. 4d. (e). The Frigget waste, lying along the shore of the Forth, between

Caledonian Mercury, No. 313. On the 8th of April 1723, the same dividend of 2^ per cent, was voted
the proprietors. lb., 470. We thus see that the profits of the bank on its actual stock were only 2-^
per cent.

(c) We may remember that in the parliamentary practice, during the reigns of the Jameses, a plough
with eight oxen was deemed the standard of a man's means. This plough of eight oxen had come down
from the agricultural days of David I.

(d) See the Rev. Doctor Carlyle's Stat. Acco. of Inveresk, svi. 12.

(e) Maitl. Edin., 173; MS. Contract. During recent times an act of parliament was passed to
enable the town council of Edinburgh to drain this Common-mjrre, or Hope Park, which from an
ornament had become, owing to neglect, a nuisance.

Sect. YIL—Its Agriculture, etc.'] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 739

Leith and Musselburgh, has been converted by very different management
into a busy village (/). There is scarcely a parish within Mid-Lothian that
has not shared in the various meliorations which the active energy that was
roused in 1723 has universally produced {g), and the general result has been,
in the active progress of seventy years, to employ many people, to lay out much
capital, to acquire great profit, and to yield vast advantage to this energetic
district Qi). [In 1887, there were under cultivation in Edinburghshire, 35,554
acres of corn crops ; 19,019 acres of green crops ; 36,16G acres of clover and
grasses under rotation ; 48,132 acres of permanent pasture ; 1 acre of flax ; and
165 acres fallow land. In the same year there were in the county, 4,187 horses,
18,776 cattle, 160,200 sheep, and 5389 pigs.]

From the agriculture it is natural to advert to the manufactures of Mid-
Lothian, which promote and support each other. During the earliest reigns
of the Scoto-Saxon kings, their people must have enjoyed the benefit of those
domestic fabrics without which society can scarcely exist. During those times,
we may perceive in the chartularies, that this shire enjoyed handicrafts but
not manufactories ; and the earliest were those which were connected with
agriculture ; the manufacturing of corn into meal ; and malt into ale, for ages

{/) Stat. Acco., xviii. 361.

{g) See the Stat. Accounts of this shire, under the head of improvements.

(h) The intelligent writer of the General View of the Agriculture of Mid-Lothian, in 1795, states
the general result in this manner. The whole operations of agriculture were in this shire conducted
by 675 families of farmers, under whom were 2,346 families of hinds, who were in constant employ-
ment ; 1,014 families of mechanics, who depended chiefly on husbandry ; and 270 domestic servants.
There, moreover, were 460 families of hinds and mechanics, who were employed by the land owners,
exclusive of casual labourers during the busy seasons.

He stated the whole capital which was employed in this shire for every agricultural purpose
at, -......--- £435,000

The annual value of the whole crop, . - . . - £488,100

Of this, was paid yearly, for the rent, . . - - £134,575

for seed, .... 65,000

for tillage, .... 65,000

for carriage, .... 65,000

for other charges, - - - 103,903

The whole charges, - - - £433,478

The profit, .... 54,722

488,100

In the same year, 1795, this agriculturalist gives a different view of the domestic profits of this
shire, thus : —

the rent, £145,750, at 30 yrs. purch. ; worth. £4,372,500

20,000, at 8 160,000

3,33.3, at 10 33,333

156,000, at 10 1,560,000

The gross produce of the land, £516,925
of the coal, 60,000
of the quarries, 10,000
of the houses, 156,000

£742,925 £325,083 £6,125,833

740 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

before the practice of distilling grain into spirits was known. The making of
salt was very early of great importance to a people who lived much on salted
provisions (i). Snch was the inconsiderable state of domestic manufactures at
the demise of Alexander III., which was also fatal to husbandry itself. Yet
in those ages the catching of fish in the rivers and lakes, as well as the sea,
was an object of active pursuit and considerable profit, though the fishery was
in those times carried on rather for domestic use than foreign traffic. Nor
beyond the limit of domestic use has fishery ever been carried in Mid-
Lothian.

At that epoch, ages of warfare and wretchedness began, which did not admit
of manufactures or meliorations. During the 14th and 15th centuries, an in-
dependent but ruined nation scarcely enjoyed the most common handicrafts.
The industrious Flaudrikins supplied the Scottish people with almost every
necessary as late as the reign of James I. (k). Two centuries of subsequent
distractions could not give much energy to the manufactures of Mid-Lothian,
and legislation interposed her encouragements in vain to engage men in
those useful labours, while the people possessed neither skill, nor connection, nor
capital.

How many efforts were made by parliament soon after the Restoration to
introduce eflSciently various manufactures, active fishery and numerous ship-
ping, we have already seen. The populace turned away from temporal pursuits
in quest of spiritual objects, and the popular energies evaporated in polemical
contest and fanatical ebullition. During such a period, a progress in the
efforts of domestic economy can scarcely be traced. A difterent spirit was
introduced at the Revolution, and some laws were then made which still
continue to produce their beneficial effects. But the energies of the Scottish
people were turned away to distant plantation from domestic effort ; and dis-

(t) A salt-pan was granted by the ctarter of David I. to the monks of Holyrood. Maitl. Edin.,
146. There were some salt-works on the shores of Mid-Lothian during the 13th and 12th centuries,
as we may learn from the Chartulary of Newbottle. Mary Stewart introduced some foreigners here,
who brought in an improved manner of making salt, and who obtained an exclusive privilege by act of
parhament for carrying on this work. 9th Pari, of Q. Mary, ch. 71. There are many salt-works on
the same shore at present.

(k) The wools of Scotland were in those times draped in Flanders. The |Scots were supplied
out of the low countries with mercerie and haberdasherie. and half of the Scottish ships were
laden with cart-wheels and barrows ; so that the traffic of Scotland in that reign consisted of
the i-ndest rvares. See the Commercial Poem, which has been transcribed into Hakluyt's
Voyages, i. 192.

Sect. YIL—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 741

appointment, depression, and tumult followed in necessary succession. The
year 1695 saw, however, established at Edinburgh, the Bank of Scotland, with
a nominal stock of £100,000 sterling, with a real capital of £20,000 of the
same money. Yet for this sum, small as it seems to be, it was not easy to find
em2:)loyment in the business of banking at Edinburgh, at Glasgow, and at
other towns in Scotland, such was the want of skill, and circulation of industry
and of opulence during that uncommercial age. Yet the African Company at
Edinburgh attempted, at the same time, to act as bankers by the circulation
of notes, though without success. The bank endeavoured to deal in exchange,
but this jaractice was soon discontinued as unprofitable, and its whole
business was now restricted to " the lending of money, which seemed to be
the proper dealings of a bank (l)." January 1699 is the epoch of bank notes
of £1, which were found to be convenient in Edinburgh as well as the country.
Yet in the public markets they were scarcely circulated, "as nothing answered
there among the common people but silvei' money, gold being scarcely
known (m)." Such then was the commercial state of Edinburgh and of
Lothian at the end of the 17th century. The period which elapsed from the
Revolution to the Union was a time of more bustle than business at Edinburgh,
and of more projects than execution.

The Union was a great commercial concern as well as a speculation of politics.
As the two nations were thereby incorporated, there was also to be a community
of agriculture, manufacture, and trade. One of the most immediate benefits
of the Union was the recoinage of the specie upon the English principle, so
as to obtain uniformity of circulation. New ports were after a while established ;
new custom-houses were soon settled ; and the entrances and clearances of
shipping were at length made according to the English modes ; and the
Scottish people were fully admittted into a participation of all the advantages

(/) Hist. Acco. of tlie Bank, 5. They tlien discounted some bills, which was much more congenial
to a bank, as well as advantageous to trade and manufacture and husbandry. Before the year 1699
there had been issued five kinds of notes — of £100, of £50, of £20, of £10, and of £5.

(?k) lb., 6. The circulation of England during that age consisted also in silver coins, without much
respect to gold. The whole circulation of Scotland at that period appears, from the recoinage at
Edinburgh in consequence of the Union, to have been of silver coins, as follows :

Of foreign silver coins - . . . . £132,080 17 Sterling.

Of mz'WecZ Scottish coins ... - - 96,856 13

Of /iam?;ie)'«ci Scottish coins - - . _ . 142,180 0

Of English milled coins . - . - . 40,000 0

The whole circulation - - - -£411,11710

5 A

742 AnACCOUNT [Ch. N .—Edinburghshire.

of the Engllsli commerce and colonies. But it was not so easy to introduce
habits of business, spirit of enterprise, the conveniences of correspondence,
and the benefits of circulation ; and the Union, the bank, and the recoinage,
did not produce any perceivable effect on the general system of commercial
affairs, much less on the manufactures of Mid-Lothian, as the people were not
yet prepared to receive and communicate benefits. When the Society of Im-
provers arose in 1723, they endeavoured to draw the attention of cultivators
to the sowing of lint and hemp, which they deemed so self-evidently for the
advantages both of the farmers and the manufacturers (n). It was found more
easy to recommend than to attract or enforce, as the indi^^dual is always
moved by what he thinks his immediate interest. The greatest stock which
the bank had theretofore employed during the pressing exigencies of the most
difficult times was £30,000 (o) ; and the usual dividend of profit, as we have
seen, was only two pounds ten shillings on every hundred pounds. These facts
evince that Scotland was in those tunes without opulence and circulation, and
Mid-Lothian without manufacture and traffic. At length commotion induced
policy to establish at Edinburgh, in 1727, a board of trustees with a small
fund, under parliamentary encouragement, to promote the manufactures and
fisheries of Scotland. The effects of this establishment were not immediately
perceived, but they have at length been felt by their magnitude {p). They

{j\) The Improvers' Treatise on the Training of Lint and Hemp, 1724. They annexed an appendix
of the several statutes, Scottish and English, for encouraging the manufacture of linen cloth. The
linen manufacture in Mid-Lothian was at this epoch scarcely in existence, for in 1728 tliere were
made within this shire only 747 yards, of the value of £198 17s. sterling. On the 9th of December
1726, there were public resolutions at Edinburgh, by the nobility and gentry, in favour of the linen
manufacture. Caled. Mercury, No. 1,038.

(o) The Hist. Account. The bank sent out branches to Glasgow and Berwick, to Dundee and
Aberdeen, but they were all removed before the year 1733, as they were found to be unprofit-
able. The discreet directors of the bank held as maxims : "It is a vain thought to imagine that
" a bank in any nation can supply all borrowers, so as to engross the whole business of lending ;
" 2nd, It is impossible to extend their credit so as to make their notes circulate in the remoter
" parts of the nation.'' They might have said, in other words, that banking cannot be can-ied
beyond the circulation of any country. Yet, John Law, having more splendid notions, some
years before insisted that paper money could be circulated to the amount of the value of the
whole lands.

{p) On the 3rd of October 1728, the trustees advertised for persons who would undertake to
erect bleachfields. Courant, No. 547. On the 14th of November 1728, a curious machine for
dressing hemp and flax was finished and much employed. lb., 559. On the 4th of June 1729,
arrived from Holland Mr. John Lind with some Dutch bleachers, who are to be employed by

Sect. Vll.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 743

raised the linen manufacture of Scotland from two millions of yards to twenty-
five millions ; and the same manufacture within Mid-Lothian, from the yearly
value of =£199 to £35,883. The intelligent mind must supply the intermediate
progress, from little to something great. In the twenty years which elapsed from
the establishment of that board, the extent and value of the linen manufacture
experienced more than a three-fold augmentation. The Royal Bank was also
established at Edinburgh in 1727, with an invidious eye to the Bank of Scotland,
which had struggled thr-ough difficult times and supported the weakness of an
uncommercial people. The contest and competition which ensued between
those rival banks brought forth an impeded circulation, one of the greatest evils
which can afflict an industrious nation. But this obstruction did not last long.
The British Lineal Company was established at Edinburgh in 1747, which, by
bringing more capital and enterprise into the intercourses of manufacture, sup-
ported the weak and energized the strong. There were now banks established
at Aberdeen and at Glasgow, and yet the Bank of Scotland, in March 1753,
divided among its proprietors to the full amount of five on the hundred of their
real stock (q). Such then were the beneficial effects of some competition, of
greater industiy, of more wealth, and wider circulation.

As the great want during the infancy of traffic is the deficiency of capital,
the lending of money to the tradesmen is the best encouragement. This want
was now supplied, as we have seen. The incitements of the Society of Improvers,
who were succeeded in their principle and usefulness by the Society of Arts ;
the assiduities of the Board of Trustees ; the rivalities of all those banks ; the
efforts of the British Linen Company, all tended greatly to prepare the people

him in a bleaclierie, newly created at Gorgie near Edinburgh. lb., 641. On the 17th of the same
month notice was given that the bleachers who had been brought by Mr. John Lind from Haarlem
were pleased with the water at Gorgie, where he has begun to bleach in the manner of Holland.
Notice was given that, at the same place of Gorgie, linens were printed and stamped all colours. lb.,
646. This is ihejirst notice of printing and stamjiing linen. On the 15th of July 1729, notice was
given that Mr. Spalden had finished his mills on the water of Leith for beating and switching flax, the
first that were ever set up in this country ; and great quantities of flax were already brought thither.
lb., No. 677. On the 1st of September, in the same year, the trustees issued notices of prizes to be
given for the shire of Edinburgh, and to be contended for on the 12th, in the Burgh-room. lb.,
696. In 1728 and 1729, there were premiums given by the trustees for cultivating hemp and flax.
Id. There are now in Mid-Lothian several mills for dressing flax, and there are extensive bleachfields
in Lasswade, Glencorse, in Borthwick, and in other parishes. See the Stat. Accounts of those
parishes.

{q) Scots Mag., 1753, 157. This dividend, we may remember, in 1723 was only 2^ per cent, on the
stock.

744 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

of North Britain before tlie commencement of the present reign, how to
make a proper use of the commercial estahhshments of their country ; and
tlie commencement of the reign of George III. may be deemed more
than any other epoch, the true beginning of the effectual improvements in
Edinburghshire.

Whatever there may have been in Mid-Lothian formerly, there is now a
very considerable capital employed within it in various commercial establish-
ments, though this cannot be properly called a manufacturing shire ; yet those
manufactures which chiefly relate to agriculture and to life, have always
abounded in Edinburghshire. Milling and Malting have always been here
carried on to a great extent from the days of David I. to the present (r). Every
manor formerly had its malt-kiln and its brewery. Maltsters formerly abounded
in Edinburgh and Leith. The maltsters of both, of the circumjacent country,
and indeed the whole kingdom, were brought under the consideration of par-
liament in March 1503-4. They were all required to bring their malt to open
market on market days at particular hours ; and they wei'e requii-ed, under
penalties, for the making of a chalder of malt, to take no more that one boll

(?•) David I. granted a mill at Inveresk, with tlie manor and the fishings, to the monks of
Dunfermline. MS. Monast. Scotiae. The same king, who carried rural economy of every kind to
the greatest extent, gave to the monks of Holyrood one of the mills of Dene, with the tenth of
the multure of his other mill of Dene and of Libertun, and of the new mill of Edinsburg. Maitl.
Edin., 145. Eobert I., in May 1325, granted to the preaching friare of Edinburgh five marks
sterling yearly out of the firms of his mill of Libertun. MS. Monast. Scotise. Sir William
Livingston gave the monks of Newbottle, on the 3rd of March 1338-9, the privilege, by them-
selves or their men, inhabiting their lands of Easter Gorgie, of grinding their corn cultivated
there at his mill of Gorgie, paying as multure only one firlot in the chalder. Chart. New-
bottle, 80. This being only a 64th pai-t, was a great abatement of the usual multure in favour
of those monks, who having discovered coal and improved agriculture, well deserved to be
favoured. Many similar grants might be found in the chartularies as to Mid-Lothian mills. In
March 1482, there was a contest before the auditors in parliament about the Powmill of Dal-
keith. Pari. Eec, 275. The thirlage of the country mills only applied to the grana crescentia, or
growing corns on the lands, within the servitude of the particular mill ; but the thirlage of the
burgh mills was extended to all com which was brought within the limits of the servitude for
the support of the inhabitants. At Leith mills this practice was even carried still further' by
taking multure for the great quantities of flour which were brought into that port for the use of
Edinburgh. This extortion was remedied in 1491 by 4 Pari. Ja. VI., ch. 44. The mills of Leith
were destroyed during the siege in 1560. Li 1572 the mills about Edinburgh were destroyed
by the king's party. Bannatyae's Journal, 333. The water of Leith is remarkable for its
many mills.

Sect. \ll.—Its Agriculure, etc.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 745

of bear (s). Such then were the enmities between the sellers and buyers
of what were deemed the necessaries of life, which the parliament was obliged
to pacify or to paliate for preventing the mischiefs of tumult.

In addition to those objects of profit, to the linen trade, which has never
been of great value, after every effort of incitement, there now exists more
than ever a woollen manufacture {t). During the reign of James III. there
was a domestic manufacture of blankets, which covered the beds of the farmers
of Edinburghshire {u), and there was even then some export of woollen
cloth {x). Such was the woollen manufacture which has existed here from
the earliest times to the present. Even in the reign of James VI. there were
Flemings at Edinburgh who were engaged as manufacturers {y). In 1601
some Flemings were brought to Edinburgh for carrying on the woollen manufac-
ture (2). The same manufacture exists even now, though to no gTeat importance,

(s) Pari. Eec, 494. In November 1526, the parliament took into consideration the complaint
of the oppression which was committed by the malt-makers of Leith by raising the prices of
grain to an exorbitant rate. The provost of Edinburgh, the justice clerk, and others, were
appointed to call the maltmen before them, to bring them before an assize of the country, and if
convicted to punish them according to law. lb., 571. We thus see that the maltsters of that
age gave as much suspicion and offence as the distillers of the present. In June 1535, the
maltsters of Leith were again accused of extortion for selling their malt at eshorbitant prices.
They were again regulated, and they were now treated as oppressors of the king's people. lb., 603.
A similar statute was also then made for correcting the extortion of cordwainers, smiths, baksters,
brewsters, and all other craftsmen who sold victual and salt. lb., 606. In December 1567, the
parliament prohibited the maltsters from choosing a deacon, or acting as a craft or corporation. 1 Pari.
Ja. VI., act 29. In 1593, a duty of 20s. a-ton to the king was imposed on beer imported. Pari. 13
Ja. VI., oh. 179.

{t) As far back as March 1458, the fabric of woollen was regulated by parhament, and it
ordered that no dyer should be a draper, nor buy cloth and sell it again. Pari. Eec, 41. To
remedy the evil experienced by the matting of woollen cloth, it was directed in November 1469,
that woollen cloth should be measured by the rig and not the selwich. lb., 155. The importation
of English cloth was prohibited. lb., 176. In 1477 the town council of Edinburgh appointed the
market-place for the linen and woollen cloth. Maitl. Edin., 14. In January 1476, the websters of
Edinburgh were erected into a corporate body by a charter from the town council. lb., 307. In
February 1521, that charter was confirmed, with this additional privilege, of receiving from every
country weaver who wrought for the people of Edinburgh, one penny a-week for the support of their
altar of St. Soverane in St. Giles's kirk. lb., 308.

(a) Pari. Eec, 248.

(x) Maitl. Edin., 9 : Major, 1. i., c. vi., takes notice of a woollen manufacture near Leith, whence
the best clothes in Scotland had their name.

(y) Unprinted Act, 11th Pari. Ja. VI., a ratification to the craftsmem Flemings.
(:) Maitl, Edin., 55.

746 A N- A C C 0 U N T [Ch. W.— Edinburghshire.

in Edinburgh, at Inveresk, and at Stow (a). There are iron works in the
vicinity of Edinburgh and at Cramond, which are carried to a great and useful
extent (b). Leather in great abundance is manufactured at Edinburgh (c).
The making of glass at Leith has long been there made, and is carried on
to great perfection and profit (d). Here also are made soap, candles, and
sugar, with abundant profit to the tradesmen and benefit to the pubUc (e).
Cotton mills have been erected in this shire {/). Near Edinburgh, cottons,
shawls, cassimers, have been introduced with good success (</). Paper-
making, which was introduced here in pretty early times, has been carried up
in this shire to great value (h) ; and the printing of books is now executed
at Edinburgh with accuracy and elegance, at charges sufficiently cheap {i).
Coach-making, which was first introduced here in 1699, has been cultivated
into elegance, and has been carried the length of exportation for the use of
other countries (k). Some other manvifactures, both laborious and scientific,
are on at Edinburgh and at Leith, with benefit to the undertakers and
advantage to the public (?). Breweries, which are so ancient, and dis-
tilleries, that are so modern, are equally conducted here, with great emolument
to the parties and benefit to the people {m). There is a very busy scene of
various manufacture at Inveresk, of cloth, of soap, of starch, of pottery, of
malt, and ale and spirits, and of salt, which was probably made here in early
times (n). In Colinton parish, also, there are various manufactories, which
have augmented the wealth and increased the people of this district (o). The
proprietors of salt-works and the salters have undergone many regulations (p).
Along the coast of Musselburgh there are great quantities of salt manu-
factured (q). In Duddingston parish there are six pans, which make annually

(a) Stat. Acco., vii. 138 ; xvi. 13 ; and Arnot's Edin., 590-1.

(i) Roberts. Survey, 189 ; Wood's Cramond, 89. (c) Amot's Edin., 595.

(d) Robertson's Survey, 185. (e) Id.

(/) lb., X., 422. (y) Stat. Acco., vi. 593-4-6,

(A) lb., V. 223 ; xiv. 359 ; vi. 595 ; x. 279 ; Inquis. Special. Edin., 117 ; Courant, No. 738.

(t) Arnot's Edin., 599. (k) Id. (I) lb., 600-1. (m) Id.

(») lb., xvi. 13-15. (o) lb., xix. 580.

(/») 5th Pari. Ja. VI., ch. 56. No person could hire a Salter without a testimonial from their
last master; and the proprietors of salt-pans were empowered to seize vagabonds and other
beggars and to oblige them to work. 18th Pari. Ja. VI., ch. 2. During the zealous years 1640 and
1641, the assembly and parliament concurred to reprobate and restrain the working of salt-
pans on a Sunday. Salt-works were declared to be free, and to be deemed public manufactures.
Pari., i., Car. II., ch. 27.

(q) Stat. Acco., xvi. 15.

Sect. Yll.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 747

18,000 bushels (r). The profit of those establishments is considerable, and
employ many people. Above all, there are at Leith manufactures of iron,
which is very old here, and of shipping to a great extent, -with sail-cloth and
cordage in abundance (s). In every kirk-town within this shire, there are
domestic manufactories of greater or less accommodation to the people and
benefit to the workmen ; yet is not Mid-Lothian considered as a manufacturing
shire, because it has neither a gi'eat woollen, nor linen, nor cotton manufacture,
whatever it may have of iron in all its varieties. There is another kind of
business at Edinburgh, which, though it does not employ many hands, is yet
the cause of many hands being employed. It is banking, of which Edinburgh is
the great scene, and which, when prudently managed, facilitates circulation
and supplies capital, the mighty means of rousing to many enterprises, and
putting in motion so much labour.

Mid-Lothian, whether we regard its agriculture, its manufactures, or its
commerce, must be deemed in a very prosperous state. It had some trade
and some shipping in very early times. It had the kings and abbots for its
traders (t). The port of Inverleith was granted by David I. to the abbey of
Holyrood. This confluence of Leith water, which contributes so much to the
use and ornament of the city and the shire, continued during the middle ages
dependant and inconsiderable. Edinburgh, as we may infer from its charters,
acquired, during those ages, a monopoly of the traflic within the compass of
Mid-Lotliian, according to the narrow maxims of uninformed times. The magis-
trates of the city were ambitious of domination over Leith, and after many
a struggle obtained it. The whole trade of import, comprehending groceries and

(»•) Stat. Acco., xviii. 368. From those works is the city of Edinburgh supplied by women, who
bring it on their backs from the makers to the consumers. About 50 of these salt- women reside ia
Inveresk parish, and 40 of them in Duddingston parish. lb., xvi. 23 ; lb., xviii. 368.

(s) lb., Ti. 570 ; Arnot's Edin. ; Roberts. Survey, 187-9.

(t) We may trace in the chartularies the kings, and nobles, and bishops, and abbots carrying on
trade, for their domestic supply perhaps. In April 1457, George de Fawlaw, the king's merchant,
was appointed by James 11. one of his commissioners to treat with the English. Eym., xi. 398,
In 1459 there were several grants to John Dalrymple, the king's merchant, for his services at home
and abroad. Scotstarvit's Calendar. In April 1448, John de Dalrymple, bailie of the burgh
of Edinburgh, was one of the Scottish ambassadors for whom passports were granted. Eym., xi,
213. James III. had his ship, which was taken by a vessel belonging to the Duke of Gloucester ; and
in April 1475, the English ambassador. Doctor Leigh, was instructed to give complete satisfaction to
the Scottish admiral for that ship. He was also directed to give satisfaction for a ship belonging to
the laird of Luf, which had been captured by Lord Gray. Those instruoions remain in Vesp.,
c. xvi., fo. 118.

748 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y. —Edinburghshire.

merceries, and of exports, consistiug of the rude produce of the soil, were now
conducted through Leith, according to the mean motives of monopoly and the
interested legislation of the burghs. The merchants of Edinburgh, how-
ever, upon some memorable occasions, merit the praise of liberality. When
the state was in danger, under James III., they interposed their credit ; and
when the Revolution was to be accomplished, they offered to furnish the means
upon slight security. In more modern and opulent and refined times, the
import trade of this shire consists of all that is necessary and luxurious ; and
its exports comprehend all the produce of the soU, and all the manufactures of
skill and diligence (u). When Berwick ceased to belong to Scotland, owing
to the treacheries of Angus and Albany, Leith became, perhaps, the chief
port, while Edinburgh equally assumed the consequence of the metropolis (x).
During the mild tyranny of Oliver Cromwell, Leith was allowed to be the
principal port of North-Britain {y), as the chief custom-house was then estab-
lished in its neighbourhood. The Restoration and the Revolution did not
add many shipping to the port of Leith, though the progressive gains of a
century added a great number (s). The augmentation of the numbers of ship-
ping may, perhaps, be thought satisfactory proof of a progressive increase of
trade. In 1717 the limits of this port were again set forth, according to those
of 1656 (a). The traffic of this port employed, of shipping to carry it on,

(«) See the Custom-house details in Arnot's Edinburgh.

(m) When the English came into the Forth with a hostile fleet, in 1544, they perceived Leith to be
a rich town, comparing it with the rich towns of England. In September 1547, after the battle of
Pinkie, the English found 13 ships in Leith harbour, and such a quantity of wines, wqinscot, and salt
ware as could not be carried away. Patten, 78. In 1540 Leith was regarded by Beague, 65, as the
emporium of commerce in Scotland. In that age, Leith was certainly deemed of great importance.
See its lawsuit with Edinburgh in 1697. Fountainhall, i. 742-59-65.

(i/) Tucker's MS. Eeport. In 1656, Leith, however, only owned 3 vessels of 250 tons, 11 of 20;
being in all 14 vessels, bearing 970 tons.

(z) Gent. Mag., 1752, 477 ; and Register of shipping. Of vessels, there belonged to Leith —
In 1692, ...--.-- 1,702 tons.

In 1744, 2,285

In 1752, ..----.. 5,703
In 1787, - 132 ships ..... 14,150

In 1792, - 168 ..... 18,468

In 1802, - 157 ..... 18,241

In 1808, - 160 ..... 20,022

(a) The date of that re-establishment is the 25th of July 1717; and its limits were again
assigned, from the Frigget burn on the east, and Cramond water on the west ; and its extent is

Sect. Yn..—Its Agricultuie, etc.] OrNOETH-BEITAIN. 749

during the year 1800, 110 vessels bearing 11,585 tons; and the value of
the cargoes which were transported by those shipping are estimated at up-
wards of half a million. The confluence of the Esk was probably au earlier
port than even Inverleith (b). David I. gave the port of Inveresk, which com-
prehended Musselburgh, to the monks of Dunfermline (c). Robert I. confirmed
to those monks their ancient privileges within this port and added more {d).
But Musselburgh and Inveresk, with the Frigget burn, are now included
within the inconsiderable port of Prestonpans, and the shipping and busi-
ness of this district are now absorbed by the carrying trade of Leith, which
is every year acquiring more activity and greater extent, from the augmented
numbers of its traders and the vast increase of their capitals. The whole
Forth, in one sense, may be considered as the port of Edinburgh, though this
estuary be divided into many districts for the convenience of admitting the
ships to their entrance at the custom house (e). The intelligent mind mast fill
up the intervenient progress from the reign of David I. to the present, through-
out so many ages of warfare and debility, to our own times of vigour and
prosperity (/).

six miles along ihe Forth, comprehending as creeks, Craigentinnie, Newhaven, Eoyston, Muirhouse,
and Cramond. A Custom-house Report.

(b) David I. granted to the monks of Dunfermline "omnes rectitudines de omnibus naves, que in
portu de Inveresk applicuerint.' MS. Charters.

(c) Monast. Scotiee. Pope Gregoiy confirmed in 1234 to the monks of Dunfermline, " hurgum et
portum de Musselburgh, cum omnibus libertatibus suis ; et Inveresk." Id.

(d) Roberts. Index, 20. Robert III. confiimed to the same monks " totam novam magnam
custumam nostram,'' within their lands of Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy, Musselburgh, and the Queen's
Passage.

(e) It may gratify a reasonable curiosity to be informed that in 1808 there were 6,617 ships which
navigated in the Forth, caiTying 462,681 tons.

(/) See the Commercial Tables in this volume, ch, i. The whole excise, according to the three
years average ending with 1802, which was paid by the city of Edinburgh, with a part of
Edinburghshire, was £308,635. The same excise which during the same period was collected
from the city of Glasgow, with a part of Lanarkshire and all Dumbartonshire, was £125,412.
These statements show the relative consumption of each of those cities and districts. We shall
have a different view of the several means of the same cities and districts from the following facts :
The commercial assessment on Glasgow in 1800 was £30,735 18s. 6d. ; the commercial assess-
ment on Edinbui'gh in the same year was £7,263. 15s. 6|d ; and these commercial assessments
evince how much more capital is employed in commercial enterprises at Glasgow than at Edin-
burgh, and it is the contrast of both which supplies the instruction of those curious facts. In
4 5B

750 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V.— Edinburghshire.

§ VIII. Of its Ecclesiastical History]. The Roman legionaries, who deUghted
to dwell along the salubrious shores of Mid-Lothian, as well as the Romanized
Britons, probably enjoyed the religious benefits of the Christian dispensation.
The successive settlers in the same land, the Pagan Saxons, and the Christianized
Scots, witnessed many changes in the ecclesiastical polity of this pleasant
country.

The Saxon colonists of Mid-Lothian derived much rehgious instruction as
well from the pious efforts of the worthy Baldred, as from the wider excursions
of the excellent Cuthbert {g). Yet legend itself does not pretend that the
people of Edinburgh or its vicinage received any of the comforts of instruction
from the peregrinations or the mii-acles of St. Giles.

The epoch of the bishopric of Lindisfarne is 635 a.d. It undoubtedly com-
prehended Edinburgh, and we know that the Northumberland Ceolwulf
annexed to the same bishopric the monastery of Abercorn, and other places
lying westward of that ancient burgh {h) ; but the abdication of the Northum-
brian authority over Lothian equally put an end to the episcopal jurisdiction of
the Northumbrian bishops.

When the Scottish kings obtained undisputed authority over the utmost
bounds of Lothian, the bishop of St. Andrews naturally assumed the ecclesiastical

the year whicli ended with July 1802 the whole public money, which was remitted through Edinburgh
to London, was

For the excise, --..... £833,000 0 0 Sterling.

For the customs, ..-.-.. 1 <J0,000 0 0

For the stamps, ....... 157,078 18 8

For the post office, ..--.-. 520,289 2 7

£1,790,185 13 4
Exclusive of what were paid for bounties on corn imported. - - 170,000 0 0

£1,960,185 13 4

And it is again, by contrasting this great sum with the small amount of the Scottish ;revenue8, on
whicli the estimates of the Union were made in 1706, that we clearly discern how much every district
of Scotland had increased during the interveiiient period, in agriculture, in manufacture, in commerce,
and in opulence.

((/) The district of Baldred extended, as we have seen, to Eshnuthe, and the diocese of Cuthbert
comprehended within its ample bounds the whole of Lothian during the Saxon times ; and we may
determine, with regard to the influence of Cuthbert, from the number of churches which were
dedicated to his respected name, as St. Cuthbert's at Edinburgh, and other parishes throughout the
southern shires.

Qi) Lei. Col., xiii. 181 ; Ang. Sacra, i. 698'703 ; and witli those authorities concur Simeon of
Durham and Bromton.

Sect. Yill.—Its Etdesiastical History.] 0 p N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N . 751

jurisdiction, throughout its whole extent, which seems to have been relinquished
to him without a rival, and we may see Robert, the bishop of St. Andrews,
exercising ejjiscopal authority over the whole churches " in Lothonie," as early
as 1127 A.D., when John, the recent bishop of Glasgow, witnessed that exercise
of his undisputed power (i). Under the superintendence of the bishop of
St. Andrews, the Lothians continued till the religious zeal of recent times
introduced unstable innovations. In 1633, a period unpropitious to prelacy,
that part of the episcopate of St. Andrews lying southward of the Forth, and
comprehending Stirlingshire, Linlithgowshire, Edinburghshire, the constabulary
of Haddington, Berwickshire, and Lauderdale, was erected in an evil hour into
the See of Edinburgh (k).

Wlien the Scottish establishment was reformed by the liberal spirit of
David L, the churches of Mid-Lothian were probably placed under the
subordinate authorities of the deans of Lothian and Linlithgow. Under them,
the various churches of this shire were severally placed, as we may learn from
tlie ancient Taxatio {!). Of old, the archdeacons and dea^is of Lothian were
persons of great authority, as we may indeed learn from the chartularies,
wherein we distinctly see them acting in the scene very conspicuous parts (m).

(i) Smith's Bede, 769. (k) The charter of erection is in Keith's Bishops, 20.

(I) There were in decanatu de Linlithgoio : In decanatu Laudonie :

Mercas.

Ecclesia de Penicok - - - 20

Ecclesia de Pentland - - - 12

Ecclesia de Lessewade - - - 90

Ecclesia de Mallavill - - - 20

Ecclesia de Wyniet - - - 20

Ecclesia de Dodingston - - 25

Eccles. S" iEgidii de Edin. - - 26

Eccles. S" Cuthberti sub castro - 160

Ecclesia de Gogyr - - - 12

Ecclesia de Halis - - - 60

Ecclesia de Ratheu - - - 70

Ecclesia de Kelleleth - - - 50

Ecclesia de Newton - - - 15

Ecclesia de Kaledour cler. - - 30

Ecclesia de Kaledour com. - - 40

(in) Chart. Kelso, 27-285. John of Leicester, the cousin of William the Lion, was arch-
deacon of Lothian in 1203. lb., 142. He was elected Bishop of Dunkeld in 1211. Keith's
Bishops, 48 : and dying at Cramond in 1214, he was buried in Inchcolm. Fordun. William
de Bosco, who was chancellor to Alexander IL, was archdeacon of Lothian. Keith's Bishops, 141.

Mercas.

Ecclesia de Muskilburg

- 70

Ecclesia de Cranstoun

- 60

Ecclesia de Creichtoun

- 30

Ecclesia de Fauelaw

- 6

Ecclesia de Locherwer

- 40

Ecclesia de Kerynton

- 18

Ecclesia de Kocpen

- 20

Ecclesia de Klerkyngtor

I -

- 8

Ecclesia de Maisterton

- 4

Ecclesia de Heriet

- 30

Ecclesia de Monte Laudonie

- 12

In decanatu

de Met

•ske :

Ecclesia de Waedale

- 70

752 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

This dignitary seems to have gradually given way to an official, or deputy, for
executing the archdeacon's jurisdiction, or as the delegate to whom the bishop
generally committed the charge of his spiritual authority. After the reign of
James III. the archdeacon of Lothian seldom was seen, and John Cameron,
who rose to be bishop of Glasgow, appeared as early as 1422 in the character
of official of Lothian. Nicolas Otterburn, a canon of Glasgow, acted as the
same official under James II., from whom he was a frequent envoy («). John
Otterburn, who is said to have divorced the Duke of Albany from his first wife,
in his character of official of Lothian, certainly acted in that office from 1467 to
1473 (o). He was no doubt succeeded by the celebrated William Elphinston,
in 1474, as official of Lothian (p), who rose from this situation to be bishop of
Aberdeen. The official of Lotkian was present on the 19th of September 1513,
in the general convention at Stirling, when he was chosen one of the council
which was to assist the queen {q). The officials of Lothian, as they generally
resided at Edinburgh, became extremely useful in the public conventions.
Under all those influences the ecclesiastical aftairs of Mid-Lothian continued to
be fitly managed, till the Reformation placed them under the popular regimen
of presbyteries and synods.

The age of David I. was a period of piety, when the founding of religious
houses was deemed a munificent act. The worthy David had seen this spirit
and that practice, during his residence at the splendid court of Henry I., and
when he ascended the Scottish throne, he perceived how much the same policy
mio-ht benefit such subjects as his, who were ruder from ancient habit, and
more various from recent colonisation. Near his castle and town of Edin-
burgh he dedicated, for canons regular whom he brought from St. Andrews,
a religious house to Mary and to All Saints (r). To that noble endowment,

Walter Wardlaw, who was secretary to David II., and employed in his confidential negotiations, was
archdeacon of Lothian in 1361, he was consecrated bishop of Glasgow in 1368, and he died a cardinal
in 1389. Keith, 145-6. That eminent ecclesiastic was followed, as archdeacon of Lothian, by some
considerable men who rose high in the Scottish church, and state.

(n) Eym., xi. 213.

(o) Pari. Eec, 152-61-74 ; and see before, 268-9.

Ip) Pari. Eec. 211 ; and before, 269. The officials of Lothian seem to have sat in parliament
in virtue of their office, and were generally chosen on the committee of causes. See the Pari. Eec.
throughout.

(g) lb., 525.

(r) The foundation charter of David I. has been transcribed, though not very accurately, into
Maitland's Edinburgh. This ample charter was confirmed by Robert 1. and by David IL in

Sect. Vin Its Ecclesiastical History.] OrNORTH-BRITAIN. 7SS

many additions were made of lands and churches in several shires during
the long progress of the religious spirit, and in the ancient Taxatio the
whole lands of this abbey, which was called Holycross, or Holyrood, were
assessed at £88. The abbot and canons were invested with as large a juris-
diction B& the bishop of St. Andrews, or the abbots of Dunfermline or Kelso.
They were endowed with the privilege of sanctuary, which remains to this day
annexed to the palace of Holyrood (p). They were empowered to build a
burgh adjoining to Edinburgh, which now forms the well-known suburb
called the Canongate {q). They were enabled to trade in any town, or to send
their ships to any country (r).

The abbey of Holyrood, connected as it was with the capital, with the
parliament, and with the king, has been always a place of note. Fergus the
lord of Galloway, one of its earliest benefactors, retired in 1160 from the
infelicities of life to this abbey, where he died in the subsequent year. His
son Uchtred was also a benefactor to the same canons. In 1206 John the
bishop of Candida Casa found refuge here from a censorious world, as we

1343, when he added a donation of the king's chapel, and declared the abbot of Holyrood to be his
principal chaplain. The foundation charter was further confii-med by Robert III. in 1391. Hay's
Vindication of Elizabeth More, 125.

( p) Birrel, in his Diary, often mentions the Girth-cross at the foot of the Canongate, near the abbey.
This cross was the limit of the sanctuary. Maitl. Edin., 154. The precinct of the palace forms still
a sanctuary for debtors, the limits whereof are described in Maitland, 153.

(q) Abbot Robert, who flourished under Alexander III,, granted a charter of privileges to the people
of the Canongate. Maitl. Edin., 147.

(r) "An° 1128, cepit fundari ecclesia Sanctae Crucis de Edenesburch." Chron. St. Crucis ; Chron.
Melrose. Alwin was the first abbot who resigned his charge in 1150, and died in 1155, when
he must have been aged. The seven-and-twentieth, and last abbot, was Robert Stewart, the natui-al
son of James V. by Euphemia, the frail daughter of Lord Elphinston. In this charge he appears
to have been placed very young ; and in that age the king's bastards, as the last corruption of a
corrupt age, were introduced into the greatest bishoprics and the richest abbeys. This abbot
of Holyrood, who was known in the coui-t of Queen Mary by the name of Lord Robert, be-
came in 1559 a Protestant, and one of the reformers ; and in 1561 he married Lady Jane
Kennedy, of the house of Cassilis. In November 1563 the queen settled a considerable revenue
on him, out of her thirds of the revenues of his abbey, for the education of his three lawful
children and two natural sons. This grant was ratified by the parliament of April 1563, in which he
sat as abbot of Holyrood. Pari. Rec, 751-5. In 1569 he exchanged his abbey for the temporal
estates of the bishopric of Orkney, with Adam Bothwell, the bishop, who was empowered
to grant them. Adam and his son were commendators of Holyrood, the estates whereof
were converted, by the impolicy of James VI., into a temporal lordship, by the title of Holyroodhouse.
Crawfurd's Peer., 185.

754 A N A C C 0 U N T [Cb. Y.—Edinburghskire.

may learn from Forduu. Adam, the abbot of Holyrood, had his full share
both of the honours and wretchedness of the succession wars (s). The
monastery was plundered by Edward II.'s ai'my, when it retired from Lothian,
in August 1332 (t). Edward Baliol held his pai'liament in the church of
Holyrood, in February 1333-4 («). When the Duke of Lancaster sought
refuge in Scotland during the year 1381, he found hospitable entertainment
in Holyrood Abbey (x). During the furious inroad of Richard II. in 1385, he
burnt the monastery of Holyrood (y). When Henry IV. advanced to Leith in
1400, he assured the monks of Holyrood that he would not injure the house
wherein his father had found refuge (2). Robert III., when he came to Edin-
bui-gh, resided sometimes in the castle, and at other whiles in the abbey (a).
James I. with his queen, while at Edinburgh, resided in Holyrood abbey (b) ;
and herein was she delivered of male twins, on the 16th of October 1430.
James II., one of those twins, upon succeeding his father, was crowned in this
abbey on the 25th of March 1437 (e). He was married therein to -Mary of
Guelder, in June 1449, and he was buried in the same abbey, in August
1460 ; so that James II. was born, crowned, mari'ied, and buried in the abbey
of Holyrood. He seems to have had a house in Edinburgh, wherein he gene-
rally dwelt while he sojourned in the metropolis. James III. resided in Holy-
rood abbey while he gladdened Edinburgh with his presence (d).

But James IV. seems to have been the first of the Scottish kings who here
built a palace, which was near, but distinct from the abbey ; and in this
palace he certainly received Margaret of England, on his marriage in August

(s) There is a writ of Edward 11., dated the 8th of April 1310, directing his chamberlain in
Scotland to settle accounts with the abbot and canons of Holyrood. He was to estimate what com,
cattle, victual, and other goods had been taken from the canons b)' the constables of the castles
of Edinburgh and Stirling, and the keeper of the Pele of Linlithgow ; and to allow them the value,
which was to be deducted from 148 marks that were due the king from the abbot and canons for the
fee-fiiTJi of the lands of Carse. Rot. Scotise, 81. They rented the Carse of Stirlingshire for a fee-firm
rent of £60 sterling a year.

(t) Fordun, xiii. c. 4. («) Rym., iv. 592. (x) Fordun, xiv. 46.

(y) Bower, xiv. 50. (z) Bower, xv. 2.

(a) It was in the abbey that he granted the remission to Albany and Douglas for his son. Rothsay's
death. Pari. Rec, 137.

(6) Pari. Rec, 29-73. (c) Pari. Rec, 29-73.

(d) He was married to Margaret of Denmark in the abbey, on the 13th of July 1469. MS. Chron.
at the end of Wyntoun.

Qsci.yill.— Its Ecclesiastical Hidory.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 755

1503 (e). In April 1506, the palace seems to have been damaged by fire (/).
During the inroad of the Earl of Hertford in May 1544, the abbey of Holy-
rood and the adjoining palace were burnt by the English army {g). After
the battle of Pinkie, in September 1547, the protector Somerset sent two com-
missioners, Boham and Chamberlayne, to suppress the monastery of Holy-
rood (/i). In the abbey church there were, before the Reformation, various
altars at which chaplains performed, according to their several endowments (?).
The reformers, on the 29th of June 1559, spoiled the abbey and damaged the
palace of Holyrood {h). Queen Mary on her return took possession of the palace
on the 19th of April 1561 ; in the abbey church she was married to Lord
Darnley on the 29th of July 1566 ; and on the 15th of May 1567, the same
queen married James, Earl of Bothwell, in the hall of the i^alace (0 ; but on
the 18th of June 1567, two days after the queen's unprisonment, the Earl of
Glencairn spoiled the chapel of Holyroodhouse (m), as we have seen. At the
suppression of this abbey, it enjoyed the greatest revenue which any of the
religious houses in the southern shires possessed («).

(e) Lei. Col., iv. 290-6. On the 16th of Febi-uary 1505-6, the king in parliament ratified his gift
of 20 marks from the gresit customs of Edinburgh for the maintenance of a chaplain, to sing in the
chapel within his palace of Holyrood, and for his fee in keeping the palace. Pari. Rec, 523 ; and
MS. Donations.

(/) On the 17th of April 1506, James IV. granted a charter to the Earl of Huntly, in which he
recited that the earl's title-deeds had been lately consumed by fire in his lodging within the royal
palace. Gordon's Hist. Gordons, i. 408. James V. built an addition to the palace, and is said to
have enclosed the King's Park.

{g) Expedition, 7-11. Both are said to have been soon repaired. Amot's Edin., 253.

(/i) They found that the monks had fled ; but the church and a great part of the house were well
covered with lead. They pulled ofif the lead, and tooh down the two bells ; and, according to the
statute, did hereby somewhat disgrace the house ; and the monks, as they had fled, were put to their
pensions at large. Patten's Expedition, 82. Thus did the protector execute the English law upon the
unoffending abbey I

{i) Two of those altars were consecrated to St. Andrew and St. Catharine. Maitl. Edin., 154.
Another was dedicated to St. Anne by the tailors of Edinburgh. A fourth altar was founded by the
cordwainers to St. Crispin and Crispinian, whose statues were placed on it. Dalzell's Cursory
Remarks, 17.

(/,) Lesley, 551. (/) BiiTcl, 9. (»*) Keith, 407.

(n) The revenue of the abbey of Holyrood, which was returned at the Reformation, was £2,926
8s. 6d. in money; in victual. 26 chalders 10 bolls of wheat, 40 chalders 9 bolls of bear, 34 chalders
15 bolls 3 flrlots 3i pecks of oats, and 4 chalders of meal. There were, moreover, belonging to it
501 capons, 24 hens, 24 salmon, 3 swine, and 12 loads of salt, which were due as services. Books of
Assumption, and Books of Assignation. The revenues of two only of its cells are mentioned : St.
Mary's isle, at £307 lis. 4d., without any statement of victual; Blantyre, at £131 6s. 7id. in money,,
without any return of victual.

756 An ACCOUNT [Ch. V Edinhirghskire.

In after times the abbey church was fitted up and used as the parish church
of the Canongate, In 1617, James VI. ordered this chapel to be repaired; and
for this useful end he sent some carpenters from London, with directions to
set up in it the portraits of the apostles. Rumour was now busy to inform the
populace that graven images were to be set up and worshipped. A ferment
ensued, and the bishop of Galloway, as dean of the chapel, wrote the king
that the discontinuance of his purpose would allay the fermentation. The
king, in an angry mood, lamented that prejudice could not distinguish between
ornament and image ; between the incitement to devotion and the adoration
of an idol {q). After this ferment had been merged in much greater ferments,
Charles II. ordained the abbey church to be set apart in future as a chapel
royal, and directed that it should no more be used as the Canongate church.
It was now elegantly fitted up, and appropriated as a chapel for the sovereign
and the knights of the order of the thistle, with the useful decoration of an
organ (/■)• But this attempt at splendour in the chapel royal, was I'uined at
the Revolution by the zeal of insurgency (s). The palace, which had been
dilapidated during the grand rebellion, was ordered to be rebuilt by Charles II.,
under the architectural genius of Sir William Bruce (0- By the Act of Union,
the palace of Holyrood was especially appointed as the appropriate place for
the meeting of the Scottish peers, to choose their representatives in the united
parliament.

David I., actuated by similar motives, also founded on the Esk, in 1140,
a monastery at Newbattle, for Cistercian monks who were brought from
Melrose(iO- Tlae place dei'ived its name from the Saxon hotle, villa, domicilium;

{q) Spottiswoode, 530. On the 28tli of June 1633 there passed an act concerning the dissolution
[dis-annexation] of the abbey of Holyrood. Unprinted Act.

(r) On the 12th of July 1687 the key of the chapel of Holyroodhouse was ordered to be given to
the knights of the order of the thistle. Fountainhall, i., 466.

(s) Arnot's Edin., 254. Maitland, in his Hist, of Edin., 156-60, has transcribed the monumental
inscriptions in the abbey church. By unskilfully attempting to put a stone roof on this chapel,
of a weight heavier than the walls could bear, was " crushed down, with a heavy fall,'' the ancient
fabric.

it) See delineations of this palace in Slezer and Maitland, and a description in Amot, 305. In the
Edinburgh Courant, No. 639, there is a notice of Alexander Hamilton, writer to the signet, as bailie of
the royal palace and privileges of Holyrood, who succeeded his father, Lord Pencaithland, in 1729, in
this singular ofiSce.

(u) Chron. Mail.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 757

and it was probably called Newbotle by some Saxon settler here, in contra-
distinction to Eld-botle, or Old-botle, in East-Lothian {x).

The endowment of this house was less abundant than that of Holyrood.
David I. granted to the monks the whole manor of Newbotle, except the lands
which were held of him by Robert Ferrers {y). He gave them the district of
Mor-thwaite, which, by various mutations, is now called Moor-foot, on the
South Esk. He gave them the lands of Buchalch, on the Esk (c). He con-
ferred on them a salt-work at Blackeland, in Lothian, and the right of pannage
and the privilege of cutting wood in his forests (a). The munificent David also
assigned them the patronage of several churches, and the benefit of some
revenues. The example of so good a prince was followed by his grandson,
Malcolm, by the Countess Ada, the widow of Earl Heniy, and by William
the Lion, who granted them the lands of Mount-Lothian ; and, with some
special services, he confirmed the grants of David I. and of Malcolm IV. The
first abbot of Holyrood, the bountiful Alwin, relinquished to the monks of
Newbotle the lands of Pettendriech, on the Esk. His example was followed by
various other persons of equal piety, in giving lands in the country, tofts in the
towns, and churches in several shires. Alexander 1\., who delighted to dwell
at Newbotle, gave them various donations ; and the monks, in return, gave
Mary, his wife, a grave (6). Pope Innocent, in 1203, by a bull, confirmed
all their possessions and privileges ; and by another bull he prohibited all
persons from extorting teinds from their lands, which they held or cultivated (c).
In 1293 William de Lindsay gave the monks an annuity of £20 sterling, which
he received from Symonstoun, in Kyle, and which he directed to be distributed
in specified modes, that exhibit the manners of a rude age {d) ; and David 11.
gave the monks a charter, enabling them to hold their lands within the valley

(x) Several places in England are named Newbotle. There are two in Northampton, one in Durham,
one in Rutland, exclusive of several on the tvall, near Newcastle.

(y) Chart. Newbot., 12. (--) lb., 27-28-11.

(a) lb., 28. He gave them another salt-work in the Carse of Callander, in Stirlingshire, with some
lands and easements of pasturage and of wood-cutting. lb., 182.

(6) lb., 129. He gave them all those rights for the salvation of his predecessors, for his own, and
for the salvation of Mary, his spouse, " que corpus suum apud Newbotle sepeliendum reliquit.'' Id. ;
and they acquired much property and many privileges by purchase.

(d) The grant directed that, on St. Andrew's day, 104 shillings sterling should be given yearly to
the monks "ad pitancias," a small portion of meat and drink extra on some festival; and that two
bhillings should be distributed every Sunday among the monks to amend their usual diet, for their
.solace ; and that the abbot should be bound under a penalty to bestow certain charities on the poor of
Haddington and Ormiston on stated days. Chart. Newbotle, 195.

4 5 0

758 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edinburffhshire.

of Lothian, in a free forest, with the various privileges which belonged to a

forestry (e).

The first abbot of Newbotle was Kadulph, who came, with the monks,
from Melrose in 1140. The eighteenth abbot was John, who had to sustain
the difficult transactions of the disputed succession to Alexander III. He sat in
the great parliament of Brigham, in March 1290 (/). In Jul}^ 1291, he swore
fealty to Edward I., in the chapel of the Maiden castle (g). John again swore
fealty, with his monks, to Edward in 1296 ; and thereupon obtained writs
to several sheriffs for the return of his property (h). In January 1296-7,
Edward directed his treasurer, Cressingham, to settle with the abbot for the
/irm. due by the abbey of Newbotle for the lands of Bothkennar (i). Whether
Abbot John witnessed the accession of Robert Bruce, is uncertain. In 1385,
the monastery of Newbotle was burnt during the furious inroad of Richard
11. (k) ; and the monks were employed during forty years in re-edifying
their house (Z). Patrick Madour, who was abbot in April 1462, had the
merit of collecting the documents which form at present the Chartulary of
Newbotle; and he had the spirit, in October 1466, to institute a suit in
parliament against James, Lord Hamilton, "for the spoliation of a stone of
lead ore," taken from the abbot's lands of Fremure, in Clydesdale ; and the
lords' auditors found in the abbot's favour (m). Andrew, the abbot, in May
1499, gi-anted his lands of Kinnaird, in Stirlingshire, to Edward Brus, his
well-deserving armiger, rendering for the same sixteen marks yearly (n) ;
and in December 1500, he gave to Robei-t Brus of Binning, and Mary Preston,
his spouse, the monastery's lands, called the abbot's lands of West-Binning, in
Linlithgowshire, rendering for the same four shillings yearly (o). James
Hasmall was probably the last abbot, in' whose time the monastery was
burnt during the Earl of Hertfoi-d's invasion (p). Mark Ker, the second son
of Su' Andrew Ker of Cessford, becoming a protestant in 1560, obtained the
vicarage of Linton; and in 1564 was made the first commendator of New-
botle (q). He was succeeded by his son Mark, who had a reversion of the

(e) Eegist. David II., 1. i., 178. (/) Rym. ii., 471. (g) lb., 572.

(h) Prynne, iii., 653 ; Eym. ii., 723. (i) Rot. Scotiae, 38. {k) Bower, 1. xiv., 50.

(l) In September 141t), there was a transaction with Edward de Crichton, in which the rebuilding of
the monastery is mentioned. Chart. Newbotle. 5.

(to) Pari. Rec. 143. (») Chart. Newbotle, 307 -§-9 . (o) lb., 310.

(p) Printed account of that expedition, p. 11. The abbot was present in the parliament of
November, 1 558. Pari. Rec, 279.

(7) Keith, X. ; Hist., 305. In 1581 he obtained a ratification of parliament for the abbey of
NewSotle. Unprinted Act. He gave in the following statement of the revenues of the abbey : In

Sect. Will.— Its Ecdesictstkal lliatury.'] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 759

commendatorship, which was confirmed to him. In 1587, he obtained from
the faciUty of James VI., a grant of the whole estates of the monastery as a
temporal barony ; and this was ratified in the parliament of 1587 (r). In
October 1591, the barony was converted for him into a temporal lordship, by
the title of Lord Newbotle, which was ratified by the parliament of 1592 (s).
In this manner, then, were the pious donations of ancient times converted into
private property. The abbey was changed into a commendatory, which was
again transformed into a barony, and this was erected into a lordship, that was
elevated to an earldom by the grants of the king and the ratifications of parlia-
ment {t).

In Edinburgh city and shire, there were other pious donations which met
a similar fate, when piety assumed a different fashion, and when zealots were
more active to destroy than to save. In 1230, Alexander II. founded in
Edinburgh, a convent of Black Friars of the order of St. Dominic, and were
called in ancient charters, the Fratres Fredicatores, the preaching friars. This
house, which stood on the site of the present High School, is called in their
foundation charters, Mansio Regis, which intimates that the king had dwelled
in this royal mansion when he occasionally resided at Edinburgh. Alex-
ander II. granted those monks 10 marbs " de fii-mis burgalibus de Edin-
burgh (m)." Robert I gave them an annual rent of five marks from his mill

money, £1,334 Scots ; in victual, 12 bolls of wheat, 15 bolls of bear, 5 chalders 10 bolls of oats.
Col. Books of the Thirds ; and Books of Assumption. There was a more accurate specification given
in, as follows : In money, £1,413 Is. 2d. Scots ; in victual, 99 bolls of wheat, 53 bolls 2 pecks of
bear, 250 bolls 2 firlots of white oats. From this, several disbursements are claimed ; particularly,
£240 Scots paid to six aged, decrepid, and recanted monks. Books of Assumption. Mark Ker died in
1584, an extraordinary lord of the Court of Session.

(r) Unprinted Act.

(.<) Unprinted Act. He was created Earl of Lothian in 1606, and died in 1G09. Orawfurd's
Peer., 269.

(t) The monastery of Newbotle was sunounded by a wall, which remained entire to our own times,
and which is usually called Monkland Wall ; but the buildings of the abbey have been long obliterated
by the erection on their site of the modern mansion of the Marquis of Lothian, that is called Newbattle
Abbey. This stands on a level lawn of 30 acres, which is washed by the South Esk, and is adorned by
ancient trees. Stat. Acco., x., 216.

(u) MS. Book of Donations : And he granted to them the lane, which from their name has been
caWeiiXiQ Blackfriars Wynd. The English have preserved from the Saxon the verb, to wind, "to
move round, " to, " proceed in flexures ; ' and Milton speaks of " a rock winding with one ascent ; '
but they have not, like the Scots, a wind, for a lane or alley. We also learn, from Spottiswoode, 487,

760 AnACCOUNT [Oh. Y.—Edinburr/hshire.

of Libeiton (.t). They obtained from James III. an annual rent of twenty-
four marks from the lands of Gosford in East-Lothian {y). From a variety of
pious persons, the Black friars obtained many donations, which were confirmed
by James III. in 1473 (z). It was in the house of those Black friars that
Bagimont, in 1275, assembled the Scottish clergy (a). The house of the Black
friars was burnt in 1528. It was almost rebuilt when the reforming insurgents
demolished it in 1559. The magistrates of Edinburgh asked, and received,
from Queen Mary, a grant of this monastery, with its revenues and pertinents,
for the pretended purpose of erecting on its site an hospital for the aged
poor, which was never built ; and which was dispensed with by the regent
Murray (b).

The Gray friars were introduced by James I., who built for them a convent
in Edinburgh ; and it is said to have been so magiiificent that the foreign
leader of the Observantines could scarcely be prevailed on to settle them in their
appropriate house. But they were at length fully settled here in 1446. The
Gray friars continued a distinguished seminary of useful learning till it was
reformed by the insurrection of 1559 (c).

The Carmelites, or White friars, who were introduced into Scotland in 1260,
acquired an establishment at Edinburgh under James V. John Malcolm, the
provincial of the order, obtained from the magistrates the lands of Gree7iside,
at the foot of the Calton, with the church of the Holyrood at this place, for
the purpose of establishing a convent ; and that grant was confirmed on the

that the Vennel, crossing the BlacMriars Wynd, was also granted by the same king to the Black friars.
The palace, belonging to the see of St. Andrews, stood at the south-east corner of the Blackfriars
Wynd. Maitl. Edin., 169.

(x) MS. Monast. Scotiae.

(y) MS. Donations. In 1473, John Laing, the king's treasurer, and bishop elect of Glasgow, grant-ed
them the annual rent of certain tenements in Edinburgh, " pro sustentatione lampadis in Choro." Id.
Spottiswoode, 487.

(^) MS. Donations.

(a) See Caledonia, i., 688-9 ; and Lesley, 3.56, by a strange hallucination, placed the same event in
l.')12. Yet the 4th Pari. Ja. IV., ch. 39, directed benefices to be rated, according to "the auld
taxation of Bagimont."

(b) Maitl. Edin., 182, speaks indignantly of such deceptive pretences. The magistrates were, by the
regent, allowed to lease the site of the Black friars on ground-rent. The revenues of the Black friars
house became considerable. The rental contains 234 articles of their rents. The grants which were
given to them, and the anniversaiy obits which were made in return, for lands and benefactions, were
no fewer than 97. Maitl. Edin., 182.

(c) Spottiswoode, 499. That convent stood on the south side of the grass market, with fine
gardens annexed. The magistrates of Edinburgh in 1562, with the queen's consent, converted those
gardens into a spacious cemetery. Maitl. Edin., 23-4.

Sect. YUL— Its Ecclesiastical Histor;/.] OrNOETH-BRITAIN. 761

13tli of April (e). Here a colony of Carmelites was settled. After the Refor-
mation had exploded such establishments, John Robertson, a beneficent merchant,
settled on the same site a hos])ital for leprous persons (/).

There seem to have never been many nunneries in Edinburgh. There was
a convent of Cistercian nuns established in St. Mary's Wynd by the uncertain
piety of the 12th century (g). On the south side of Edinburgh, near the city
wall, a convent of nuns was dedicated to St. Mary of Placentia ; and the place
of its foundation was called from it, by corruption, the Pleasance (h). On the
bui'gh-moor, there was a convent of Dominican nuns, which was founded
by Lady Saint Clair of Roslin, the Countess of Caithness, in the 15th century;
and dedicated to Saint Catherine of Sienna, the reformer of such nuns. They
obtained some lands in the vicinity, and some tenements in Edinburgh (/).
There was a priest who was attached to this convent {k). The place where this
convent stood was called Siennes, and by corruption Sheens. The poet Lyndsay,
in his Satire of the Three Estates, alludes to the honest and industrious lives
of those nuns ; and he sends Chastity to their convent as a proper asylum.
After the Reformation had involved such establishments in discredit, the magis-
trates of Edinburgh seized the revenues of the worthy nuns ; and Dame
Christian Ballenden, the prioress, was thereby induced to apply to the queen,
in order to oblige them to pay Beatrice Blackadder, an aged sister, the small
portion of victual which had been allotted for her subsistence, being the rent
of a tenement which her father had granted to the convent, and was now
appropriated by the magistrates (l).

Collegiate churches in the proper sense are but modern. In 1466 the
magistrates of Edinburgh procured a charter from James III. for erecting their
ancient church of St. Giles into a collegiate form ; and its establishment con-
sisted of a provost, a curate, sixteen prebendaries, a sacrist, a bedel, a minister
of the choir and four choristers, which was the largest collegiate establish-
ment in Scotland, except the chapel royal at Stirling. For the support of

(e) MS. Donations. (/) Maitl. Edin., 214.

(g) Spottiswoode, 516. The lane, where the convent stood, was from it called St. Mary's Wynd,
being consecrated to the Virgin.

(fi) Maitl. Edin., 176. (i) MS. Donations. (k) Id.

(l) Arnot's Edin., 2.51, and Maitl. 24, vent their indignation at that specimen of uncharitable-
ness. The revenues of this convent, which were given in at the suppression, were, in money,
£129 63. 8d. Scots ; in victual, 8 bolls of wheat, 6 bolls of beer, and one ban-el of salmon. Books
of the Collectors of the Thirds. In the roll and rental of small benefices, the prionj of the Scheynes
is stated at 800 marks.

762 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

those officers were allotted the whole revenues of the numerous altars and
chapelries, that pious people had founded withm this church through several
ages. To the king was reserved the nomination of the dean or provost of this
collegiate establishment, who was to enjoy the tithes and other revenues of
St. Giles's church, with the adjacent manse, and the provost had the right of
choosing a curate, who was to be allowed yearly 25 marks, with a house
adjoining (m). William Forbes, the provost of this college, was obliged in
1482 to institute a suit in pai'liament against the magistrates for recovering
his salary of 220 marks. The lords auditors, on seeing the obligation of the
magistrates with the king's confirmation, ordained them to pay the provost's
salary on pain of imprisonment in Blackness castle (n). Gawin Douglas, the
celebrated translator of Virgil, enjoyed this rich endowment under James IV.
and James V. before he was raised to the bishopric of Dunkeld. In 1546
Robert Crichton, the provost of St. Giles's, was prosecuted in parhament
for purchasing of the pope the bishopric of Dunkeld (o). Maiy of Guelder,
the widowed queen of James II., founded near Edinburgh in 1462, on the
north, a collegiate church for a provost, eight chaplains, two choristers or
singing boys, and an hospital adjoining for thirteen poor persons. For the
support of this collegiate establishment she assigned by apostolic authority
the various churches and revenues of the house of Soltre. Her foundation
was confirmed in the same year by James, bishop of St. Andi-ews Qj). Mary,
the foundress, died on the 16th of November 1463, and was buried in her
own foundation (q). Sir Edward Boncle was the first provost of the Trinity
College, and he was soon obliged to apply to parliament for enforcing the
payment of his rents in Teviotdale (»-). James IV. in 1502 gi-anted to the
provost and prebendaries of this collegiate church, the lands of Powis
and Camestoun, with a icalk-mill in Stirlingshire (s). The provost of the
Trinity College sat in the parliament of June 1526, and was appointed one of
the auditors of causes (t). In 1567 the whole of this establishment was granted
by the regent Murray to Sir Simon Preston, the provost of Edinburgh, and
was by him given to the magistrates, and they were diligent to purchase of

(ill) Maitl. Edin., 271, where the stipends of the several members of the collegiate church are
specified for the illustration of manners.

(n) Pari. Rec, 285.

(o) lb., 693. The simoniacal offence of Crichton was a breach of an act of parliament against such
purchases of the pope.

(/)) Maitl. Edin., 207-10. (q) Lesley, 314. (r) Pari. Rec, 174-256-7.

(s) MS. Donations. , (<) Pari. Rec, 557.

Sect. Vni.—It<: Ecclismsltcal Ilistoi-//.] OfNOETH-BEITAIX. 763

Robert Pont, the last provost, his rights in the collegiate establishment, which
were confirmed by King James in 1587 (u). On the site of the university of
Edinburgh stood of old a collegiate church, which was consecrated to the
Virgin, and called the church of St. Mary in the field. The age of this founda-
tion and the piety of the founder are equally forgotten. It had a provost, eight
chaplains, and two choristers. Two additional chaplainries were endowed under
James V. ; one by James Laing, a burgess of Edinburgh, and the other by
Janet Kennedy, the Lady Bothwell (x). In 1562 the magistrates applied to
the queen for the place, kirk, chambers, and houses of the kirk in the field, to
build a school. The queen assented ; and they purchased in 1563 the right of
the provost, Penycuick, and in 1581 they acquired other rights, when they
obtained a charter for erecting the college {y). In the meantime, at Kirk of
field, was acted one of the most extraordinaiy tragedies that any age or any
country has Avitnessed. In a lone house, standing at the Kirk in the field, in
the night, between the 9th and 10th of February, 1567, was Darnley, the
husband of Queen Maiy, assassinated by Earl Bothwell, who was encouraged
to perpeti'ate so odious a deed by the unscrupulous faction who then domineered
in Scotland (c).

In this shire, without the contaminated walls of Edinburgh, there were
other collegiate establishments. At Corstorphine, Sir John Forrester, who was
appointed master of the household to James I. in 1424, and chamberlain of
Scotland in 1425, founded, near the parish church of Corstorphine, a chapel
which he dedicated to Saint John, with three chaplains, whom he endowed,
for performing divine service in it. This establishment he enlarged in 1429
to a collegiate church, for a prior, six prebendaries, and two singing boys.
For their support he assigned various rents, tithes, and churches. This founda-
tion was confirmed by a bull of Eugene, by a charter of Bishop Wardlaw
of St. Andrews in 1429, and by a charter of Bishop Kennedy in 1440 («).
Sir John Forrester died in 1440, and was buried in the choir of his collegiate
church ib). In 1384 Sir James Douglas of Dalkeith founded near his castle
a chapel, which he endowed with the lands of Lochurd and forty shillings out

(w) Maitl. Edin., 211. Pont had, for tlie assignment of his piovostry, 300 marks and au annuity of
£160 Scots. The revenues, which were reported at the suppression, were £362 6s. 8d. Scots. Ib.,
210.

(a-) MS. Donations, and Spottiswoode, 525. {ij) Maith Edin., 23-356.

{z) Birrel's Diary, 7. (a) Sir Lewis Stewart's Collections.

(i) Crawfurd's Officers of State, 311. The revenue of this establishment, which was given in after
the Eefoi-mation, was onlv £122 13s. 4d. Scots. Books of the Col. of the Thirds.

764 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y .—Eclinhirghshire.

of the lands of Kirkurd, in Peebleshire (6). In 1406 Sir James Douglas,
with the consent of Bishop Wardlaw of St. Andrews, enlarged this establish-
ment into a collegiate church, for a provost and several prebendaries, on whom
he settled a competent endowment (c). Alexander Giflbrd, the parson of New-
lands, founded two chaplamries in the church of Dalkeith. These foundations
were confirmed by the king's charter in 1504 (d). At Roslin, in 1446, was
founded a collegiate church by William Saint Clair, the Earl of Orkney
and Lord of Roslin, for a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers or
singing boys ; and he endowed it with various lands and revenues. It was
consecrated to Saint Matthew the apostle. He here erected a splendid chapel,
which is still admired b}' every eye for its elegant design and excellent work-
manship (e). After all his efforts and a vast expense, he left Rosliu chapel
unfinished. It was founded on a height, which was called from it College hill,
and which forms the northern bank of the Esk. Some additions were made to
the endowment by the succeeding barons of Roslin. In 1523 Sir Wilham
Saint Clair granted some lands in the vicinity of the chapel for dwelling-
houses and gardens, and other accommodations, to the provost and preben-
daries. In his charter he mentions four altars in this chapel ; one dedicated
to Saint Matthew, another to the Virgin, a third to Saint Andrew, and a
fourth to Saint Peter (/). The commencement of the Reformation by tumult
w-as the signal for violence and spoliation. The provost and prebendaries of
Roslin felt the eflects of this spirit. They were despoiled of their appropriate
revenues ; and in 1572 they were obliged to relinquish their whole property,

(J) Dougl. Peer., 490.

(c) Sir Lewis Stewart's Collections. In May 1453, James Douglas, '• prepositus de Dalkeitli," had
a safe conduct to go into England with Earl Douglas. Eym., xi., 326.

(d) MS. Donations. After the Eeformation the revenues of this collegiate church was given in at
only £36 133. 4d. Books of the Col. of the King's Thirds.

(e) The founder succeeded his father Henry Saint Clair. Earl of Orkney, in 1420. As
admiral of the fleet, he conveyed the Princess Margaret to France in 1436. He was chancellor
of Scotland from 1454 to 1458, and he was made Earl of Caithness in 1455. In 1470 he
resigned the earldom of Orkney to the king, and obtained in return various lands in Fife.
Having in 1459 settled the barony of Newburgh in Aberdeenshire, on William, his only son
by his first wife. Lady Margaret Douglas, he, in 1476, settled the barony of Eoslin and his
other estates in Lothian, on Oliver Saint Clair, his eldest son by his second maniage, and he trans-
feiTed the earldom of Caithness, to William, the second son of his second marriage. The eminent
founder of Roslin chapel died soon after this settlement, which deranged his estates and degraded his
family. Robertson's Index, 151.

(/) Hay's MS. Mem., ii., 350.

Sect YllL—Jts Ecclesiastical Histonj.'] OpNOETH-BEIAIN. 7fi5

which, indeed, had been withheld from them during many revolutionary
years [g). Beneath this chapel was the burial place of the barons of Roslin,
a spacious vault, said Slezer, in 1693, so dry that the bodies have been found
in it entire at the end of eighty years. Ten barons of the family of Roslin had
been here buried before the Revolution. They were of old, says Hay, buried in
theu' armour without any coffin ; the late baron being the first that was buried
in a coffin, against the opinion of the Duke of York, who was then in Scotland,
and of several antiquaries ; but his widow would not hearken to such a pro-
posal, thinking it beggarly to be buried after that manner {h). There were
other eminent personages who were collaterally connected with this respectable
family buried in that silent vault. This chapel, of which a nation may boast,
was defaced by the same ungoverned mob that pillaged the castle of Roslin
on the night of the 11th of December 1688 {i). Roslin chapel, howevei", is fre-
quently visited ; and has been often delineated {k). The ingenious cuiiosity,
perhaps, the piety, of the Countess of Sutherland and Marchioness of Stafford,
led her lately to visit this celebrated chapel, of which she has given several very
picturesque sketches (Z).

The chancellor of Scotland, Wilham Lord Crichton, in December 1449,
with the consent of his son, converted the church of Crichton into a collegiate
form, for a provost, eight prebendaries, and two singing boys ; and with the
assent of the bishop of St. Andrews, the founder assigned to this establishment
the whole revenues of the churches of Crichton and Locherwart, a competent
provision being made for the perpetual vicars, who were to serve in those
churches. Sir Peter Crichton, the parson of Locherwart, gave his consent ;
and the foundation was confirmed by James, bishop of St. Andrews (m).

(<jr) Hay's MS. Mem., ii., 350. The collegiate officers who signed that deed of resignation were
Dom. Johannes Kobeson, Praepositus de Roslin, Johannes How, Vicarius Pensionarius de Pentland,
Henricns Sinclair Prebendarius, and William Sinclair Prebendarius, and William Sinclair of Roslin,
knight. Id. (h) Hay's MS. Mem., ii., 548-50.

(i) lb., 477. The castle, after standing the several shocks of the Reformation and the Revolution,
was at length resigned to time and chance. The chapel was, in the last century, repaired by General
Saint Clair, and has since been renovated by his successors.

(i) In Hay's MS. Memoirs there are some views of it which were drawn with the pen, and are said
to be more descriptive than those of Slezer in his Theatrum Scotice, 1693. In Grose's Antiq. of Scot.,
i., 43-47, there is a good view but his historical account is en-oneous.

(Z) Views etc. taken in 1805 and etched in 1807, which her ladyship had the condescension to pre-
sent her friends.

(m) Sir Lewis Stewart's GoL, 2; Miscel. Col. of Charters, 215-24. In 1597, Gideon
Murray of Elibank, the provost of Crichton, applied to the lords of Council and Session, requiring
4 5 D

766 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

The provost of Crichton was chosen in October 1213, one of the council, who
was to assist the queen dowager in the government (n). The parliament of
April 1567, ratified to David Chalmers, the provost of Crichton, a grant of
several lands in Ross-shire (o). The parliament of August 1568, attainted the
same provost of Crichton and others for supporting the queen's rights ( p).

The parish church of Restalrig was, by James III., erected into a collegiate
church for a dean and canons ; it was consecrated to the Trinity and the
Virgin ; and he annexed to his foundation the parish church of Lasswade, with
all its revenues and pertinents. This foundation was confirmed by a bull of
Innocent in 1487 (q). John Fi-aser, master of arts, the first dean and canon
of Glasgow, was clerk of the rolls and registers in 1492 and 1497.
James IV. in October 1511, confirmed a grant to Thomas Dibson, the dean
of Restalrig, of two acres of land lying adjacent to the south side of the church
of Restalrig, paying to John Logan of Restalrig thirty-six shillings yearly (»•).

John Arthur, advocate, to produce the Register of St. Andrews in order to obtain from it a
copy of the foundation charter of Crichton. The lords granted a warrant, as prayed, for what-
ever pei'son might have the Register of St. Andrews to bring it into court, and they ordained
Sir Walter Scot of Branksholm, the patron of the provostry of Crichton, and the parishioners,
to appear for their several interests. Upon the appearance of these several parties, and the pro-
duction of the Register, the Lords declared it to be an authentic Register Book of the bishopric of
Saint Andrews, and directed the said foundation charter and confirmation thereof to be transumed.
Miscel. Col. of Charters, 215. There was a ratification, in the parliament of June 1617, to Sir Gideon
Mun-ay, of the provostry of Crichton. Unprinted Act.

(ft) Pari. Bee, 529. After the Reformation the revenue of the collegiate church of Crichton was
given in at £133 6s. 8d. Books of the Col. of the Thirds.

(o) Pari. Rec, 753.

(p) lb., 807-8. On the 26th of January 1564, David Chalmers of Ormond was appointed a
senator of the College of Justice, in the room of the bishop of Ross. He was obliged to flee to
France from the fury of triumphant faction. He published several books of no great value on
Scottish antiquities. Lord Hailes's Notes on his Cat. of the Lords of Session, p. 6. On the 21st
of June 1.^86. David Chalmers was restored to his seat on the bench in consequence of the act of paci-
fication. Id.

(7) MS. Monast. Scotise.

(r) MS. Donations. In October 1512, James IV. confirmed an annual rent of £20 from the
king's new works in Leith for an additional prebendary, and he empowered the abbots of
Holyrood and Newbotle to erect into a new prebendary the chapelry of St. Tiidnan's isle,
founded in the collegiate church of Restalrig by James Ross, the bishop of Ross ; and the
king further granted the parsonage of Bute, with all its revenues, to be equally divided into six
free prebendaries. In this manner then was this collegiate establishment raised to a dean and
eight prebendaries. .Tames V., in October 1515, added to this college two singing boys ; and
the endowment was enlarged by the grant of the £10 land in the parish of Strabrock, which was

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] Op NOETH-BEITAIN. 7G7

There were respectable men connected with this collegiate establishment.
Patrick Covyntre, the dean of Restalrig, was one of the Scottish ambassadors
who went to England in February 1516 (s). In June 1526, the dean of Restahig
was present in parliament, and chosen one of the auditors of causes {t). Thus
useful to the state were the able men who thus appear at the head of the col-
legiate church of Restalrig.

Such, then, were the collegiate churches of Mid-Lothian. The templars had
their principal establishment in this shire. The knights of the temple were
introduced into Scotland by David I., the munificent founder of so many fanes.
He gave those knights, with other possessions, Balantrodach, on the South-
Esk, where they made their chief seat ; and it was called, " domus templi de
Balantrodach {u)." From David I. and his successors, those famous

called Kirkhill, and by the addition of some rents and tenements in the Canongate. This
charter in 1.515 specifies the functions of the several members of this establishments with the
pi-ovision allotted to them. The dean was to have the parsonage of Lasswade, with the ten pound
land of Kirkhill for a glebe and a manse, and also a yard lying adjacent to the college, and
for all those provisions, he was bound to slate the college, and to provide windows, lights,
chalices, and other ornaments, with books, and maintain two singing boys in the church of
Lasswade. The first prebendary was required to make a descant and play on the organ, and
was to have his salary, £20 yearly, from the king's work in Leith. with a chamber, a yard
and a sinying school ; and he was also required to sustain two boys daily in the choir, who
should sing, light the candles, and sweep the church, and to those the dean was required to pay
£8 yearly. The second prebendary or sacrist was to enjoy the one sixth of the parsonage of
St. Mary of Eothesay, in Bute, with £4 from the dean, a chamber and a yard, and he was required
to attend daily on the church, and to keep the jewels, ornaments, books, chalices, and keys,
and four times a-year to give an account thereof to the dean and chapter, to wash the orna-
ments of the altar at his own charge, and to keep two boys for ringing the bells, lighting the
candles, sweeping the church, and also for singing. And so of the functions and salaries for the
other prebendaries. MS. Monast. Scotise, and MS. Donations. It is very seldom, indeed, that we
have such a detail of the establishment of a collegiate church, of the several officers with their duties
and provisions.

(s) Eym., xiii., 532.

(i) Pari. Eec, 558. The revenue of this establishment was given in, after the Eeformation, in
money, £93 Gs. 8d. Scots. ; in victual, 53 bolls 2 firlots, H peck of wheat, 108 bolls of beer, 373 bolls
3 firlots 3 pecks of oats, and 12 bolls 3 firlots 1^ peck of rye. Books of the Col. of the Thirds. In
1592 there was a disannexation of the deanery of Eestalrig. Unprinted Act.

(m) Chart. Aberdon, 43. The place has been long distinguished by the name of Temple, which
has supplanted the ancient appellation of Balantrodach. The knight who presided over this establish-
ment was stilod "magister domus Templi in Scotia." lb., 46. And he was also called " magister
militii Templi in Scotia.'' Eym., ii., 724.

768 AnACCOUNT [Ch. V —Edinburghshire.

knights obtained many lands, various revenues, and important privileges (x).
In consequence of these grants, they formed in various parts of Scotland,
establishments which were all subordinate to the chief one at Balantrodach [y).
'' Bi'ianus, preceptor templi, in Scotise," swore fealty to Edward I. in Edin-
burgh castle in July 1291 (z). "John de Sautre, maister de la chivalerie de
templi, en Eccosse," swore fealty to Edward in August 1296 (a). Edward
immediately issued writs to the sherifts of almost every shire in Scotland, com-
manding them to restore the Templars' property (b) ; and the universality of
those precepts evinces the wide extent of their establishments throughout every
disti'ict (c).

But the period of the existence of the Templars soon after arrived. In 1312,
a general council was held by Pope Clement V., at Vienne in France, wherein
this order, for whatever crimes, was suppressed ; and their estates and pro-

(.c) In 1236. Alexander 11. granted a charter to the knights of the Temple confirming the
donations of his predecessors and by private subjects of lands, men, revenues, churches, and other
property, to be held with ample jurisdiction ; and he granted that they should be free
" de miseracordis '' [arbitrary amercements] and " ab omni Scotto et Gildo et omnibus auxihis regum
•' et vicecomitum et omnium ministrorum eorum, et wapenthak et exercitibus, placitis, et querilis,
'•' warda, et relevis, et de omnibus operibus castellorum, portuum, clausurum, et omne carriagio,
" finagio, et navigio, et domum regalium edificatione, et omnimode operatione." The king prohibited
any of their woods from being taken for the said works, or any of their arms, men, or other things,
for furnishing castles. He gave them the liberty to cultivate the woodlands which they had within
his forests. He exempted them from all toll, in fairs, at the passage of bridges, roads, and seas,
throughout his whole kingdom ; and he gave to them and their men various other privileges,
exemptions, and special protections, for themselves, their lands, and goods. This instructive charter
of Alexander II. is transcribed into the Chartulary of Aberdon, 29-34. During the 12th and 13th
centuries the popes gave the Templars several bulls of protection, and exemption from ecclesiastical
dues and rights. lb., 24-26.

(?/) They had an establishment at St. Germains in East-Lothian. They had another at Ogerstoun
in Stirlingshire, which they had obtained from the favour of David I. They had one at Inchinnan
in Renfrewshire. They had one at Culter on the Dee in Kincardineshire. They had another at
Abo3'ne in Aberdeenshire, the church whereof they obtained from Radulph. the bishop of Aberdeen,
from 1232-1248. Chart. Aberdon, 305. They had another at Tulloch in Aberdeenshire ; and they
enjoyed several others in almost every shire within Scotland.

(z) Rym., ii., 572. (a) Prynne. 656. (b) Eym., ii., 724.

(e) In addition to their chief seat at Balantrodach, the Templars had a small establishment in
this shire at Mount-Hooly on the burgh-moor of Edinburgh. In digging the cemetery of
this establishment several skeletons were found lying cross-legged with their swords by their
sides, in the manner of the Templars. Maitl. Edin.. 176; Arnot, 251. The Templars had a
number of houses in Edinburgh and in Leith, on which they placed conspicuously the cross of their
order.

Sect. YUL— Its Eeclesimtical History.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 769

perty, were transferred to the rival order of St. John of Jerusalem (s). On
that striking event, the knights of St. John took possession of their estates,
which they long possessed. The knights of St. John of Jerusalem had their
principal establishment at Torphichen in West-Lothian. These knights also in
their turn were suppressed, when their whole lands were converted into a
temporal lordship, which was granted by Queen Mary, in Januaiy 1563, to
Sir James Sandilands, the preceptor of the same knights (e).

The Precejptory of St. Anthony of Leith was founded in 1435 by Robert
Logan of Restalrig, and was confirmed by Wardlaw, bishop of St. Andrews (/ ).
The canons of St. Anthony were introduced during the reign of James I., and
they were brought from St. Anthony of Vienne in France, the seat of the
order. They followed the rule of St. Augustine. In Scotland they had only
one establishment at Leith {cj). In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood in the
reign of James V., the preceptory of St. Anthony at Leith was taxed at
£6 13s. 4d. The same preceptory appears in a tax-roll of the archbishopric
in 1547 (/i). The canons of St. Anthony had a church, a cemetery, a

(d) Spottiswoode, in his Accouut of the Religious Houses, 480, informs us that he had seen a folio
MS., containing an enumeration of all the lands and revenues which belonged to this order. That
MS. belonged to Patrick Murray of Deuchar.

(«) From the similarity of those orders and the union of their establishments, the knights of the
Temple have been generally confounded with the knights of St. John. The patroness of the former
was the Virgin Mary ; the patron of the latter was St. John. The two orders and their several chiefs
in Scotland are clearly distinguished in the several submissions which they made to Edward I. in 1291
and in 1296. Eym., ii., 572 ; Prynne, iii., 724-5.

(/) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., No. 6. The church of Hailes, in East-Lothian, which belonged
to the monks of Holyrood, was given to the canons of St. Anthony, at Leith, and confirmed to
them by a charter of Kennedy, the bishop of St. Andrews, in 1445. The bishop's charter
mentions that the churcli of St. Anthony, at Leith, edificari cepit per Jacobum primum Scotiae regni."
lb., No. 5.

((/) Spottiswoode, 425. By a charter of Humbert, the chief of the order, in 1446, it appears
that the canons of St. Anthony, at Leith, did not live very peaceably together. lb., 426. They
seem to have been a sort of religious knights, but not Templars. The only document in which they
are called Knights Templars is the charter of James VI., in 1614, giving away their establishment
and revenues. And this idle mistake of an ignorant clerk is wildly repeated in Arnot's
Edin., 255.

(/i) The seal of the convent is preserved in the Advocates' Library, whence it appears to have borne
Saint Anthony, in a hermit's mantle, with a book in one hand and a staff in the other, and at his
foot is a sow, with a bell about her neck. Over his head there is a T, which the brothers wore on
their black gowns. The legend is : S. Commune PEECEPTORiiE Sancti Anthonh Prope Leicht. Arnot's
Edin., 255. Lyndsaj', the satirist, laughs at St. Anthony and his sow. One of the relics of his
Pardoner is, " The gruntil of Sanct Anthony's sow — quilk bare his haly bell." See Lyndsay's
Works, 1806.

770 An ACCOUNT \Ch. V .—Edinburyhshire.

monastery and gardens, at Leith, on the south-west corner of the alley which
was named from them Saint Anthony s Wynd. Besides various lands, tene-
ments, and rents about Edinburgh and in Leith, they were entitled to a
Scottish quart from every tun of wine which was imported into Leith and
Edinburgh {i). In 1482, Sir Alexander Halliday, the preceptor, was heard be-
fore the auditors in parliament, with regard to the teinds, the rents, and other
rights of the church of Hailes {k). In 1488, Thomas Turing, a burgess of Edin-
burgh, founded a chaplainry in the church of St. Anthony, for the maintenance
whereof he gave certain i-ents in Leith, amounting to £10 yearly {J). At the
Reformation this preceptory was suppressed ; and in 1614 it was granted, with
all its rights, to the kirk-session of South Leith, for endowing King James hos-
jntal at Leith (ni).

In the King's [Queen's] Park, on the declivity of Arthur's Seat, there was a
beautiful chapel of Gothic architecture, consecrated to St. Anthony, and there
was a hermitage adjoining to it, wherein a succession of anchorites, who here
rested their weary age, lived remote from all the pleasures of a guilty world (w).

The charity of elder times, in addition to all those religious houses, founded
various hospitals in this shire, which mark the people's piety, and exhibit the
religious manners of successive times. At the west end of the Greyfriars in
Edinburgh, there was of old a inaison dieu, which, having fallen into decay, was
refounded under James V,, when the hospital and its chapel were dedicated to
Mai-y Magdalene (o). At the head of Bell's Wynd, in Edinburgh, there
was, anciently, a hospital with its chapel ; but the piety of the founder is
forgotten, while his property has been appropriated. This maison dieu, still
remains, and is known by the unmeaning name of the Clamshell turnpike {p).

(i) The provost of the city and the pieceptov of the canons had their rights to care for, and their
wrongs to settle, with regard to the duty on wine. Maitl. Edin., 12. After the Reformation, the
magistrates obtained a grant of that duty, and farmed it.

(k) P:irl. Rec., 288.

(/) MS. Donations. James IV. confirmed this liberality of Taring on the 17th of January,
1448-9. Id.

(;«) Maitl. Edin., 489-95. (n) Maitl. Edin., 152 ; Arnot, 255.

(«) Michael Macquean, a citizen of Edinburgh, contributed much to the restoration of this charity,
and his widow also gave £2,000 Scots for this worthy end. She fuither granted for its support the
rents of some tenements, amounting to 138 marks Scots : and by her will, in 1547, she bequeathed her
donations to the corporation of hammermen in Edinburgh. Maitl. Edin., 189. Hugh Lord Somer-
ville gave to this hospital a rent of £40, and another of £20, by two several charters, in 1541, from
his barony of Carnwath. MS. Donations.

(^) Spottiswoode, 531 ; Ainot, 246.

Sect. VITI. —fts EccJemiMical History.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 771

Near the head of St. Mary's Wynd there was of old a hospital, with its chapel,
which was consecrated to the Virgin, but when, or by whose piety it was
founded, is unknown. Its revenues failed, owing to mismanagement, before
the end of the fifteenth century (g). In 1479, Thomas Spence, the bishop of
Aberdeen, founded in Leith, a hospital for the reception of twelve poor men ;
and it was dedicated to the Virgin, and was from this circumstance called
the hospital of our lady. At the Reformation, the magistrates of Edin-
burgh acquired this hospital, with its revenues, from Mary Stewart, under
her general grant of Mai'ch 1567 ; and in 1619, they converted this hospital
into a workhouse, which they called Paul's work, a name that it still retains (r).
In the Canongate, near the abbey of Holyrood, was founded, in 1541, St.
Thomas's hospital, by George Crichton, the bishop of Dunkeld, who had been
abbot of Holyrood. His foundation was intended for the maintenance of
seven poor old men, and he established two chaplains to perform service at
the altars of St. Andrew and St. Catherine within the Abbey Church. For
the support of those establishments, the worthy bishop granted the lands of
Lochflat in Edinburghshire, with their pertinents, from which were yearly to
be paid £8, as a ground rent to the abbot and canons of Holyrood, and vari-
ous other sums, amounting to £8 Is. 8d., for expenses and for alms to thirty
poor persons, at the celebration of the founder's anniversary. The patronage
he settled on himself and a series of heirs of the name of Crichton (s). In 1617
the patron and headmen disposed of this hospital, with its pertinents, to the
magistrates of the Canongate, who converted it into an hospital for their poor,
by the same name of St. Thomas ; yet have its revenues been completely em-
bezzled (t). On the site of the Citadel, at North Leith, there was of old a

(q) In 1499, the cLaplaiu's salary was only 16s. 8d. sterling; and the paupers were chiefly sup-
ported by voluntary contribution, Arnot, 247.

(r) lb., 247. (.?) Maitland, 154.

(t) lb., 155. The detail of the constitutions of the hospital of St. Thomas' may illustrate the
manners of the age preceding the Reformation. The headmen were required to rise about eight of
the clock, and say fifteen paternosters, the same number of ave marias, and three credos in deum
patrem, in honour of God, the Viigin, of St. Andrew, and St. Catharine. They were also required to
sit, and pray before the altars, for the soul of the founder and the other persons who were specified in
the foundation. On Sundays and festivals it was required of the headmen, as often as they entered
the church for divine service, to put on their red goivns ; and at high mass sit before the altar of the
chapel, and there repeat fifty ave marias, five jiaternosters, and one credo ; ahd in time of Vespers it
was expected of them that they should say two rnsarys. They were required to walk in their red
gowns at all public processions, and it was expected that they should leave their gowns to their suc-
cessors, and not beg under pain of ejection.

772 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Kdinburghs/ure.

hospital and a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas ; and from this foundation St.
Nicholas's Wynd in this town derived its name (u). There was an hospital and
chapel dedicated to St. Paul in Edinburgh, and there was in the chapel an
altar and chaplainry consecrated to the Virgin, of which Sir William Knolls,
the preceptor of Torphichen, claimed the patronage before the privy council
in 1495 (x). In 1396, Sir James Douglas founded, near the chapel of Dal-
keith, a hospital of six paupers ; and for the support of the whole, he
granted, with the king's consent, £6 13s. 4d. sterling from the lands of
Easterhope-Kaillie, £4 sterling from the lands of Newby in Peeblesshire, and
£3 6s. 8d. sterling from Morton in the barony of Dalkeith (y). Various hos-
pitals of a less religious, but perhaps of a more useful sort, and charity houses,
have been more recently established in Edinburgh and Leith ; but as they
belong not to the religious establishments, they fall not within the plan of this
inquiry (z).

The ancient regimen of a hisliopric, and archdeaconry, and a deanry, gave
way at the Reformation to a synod, a presbytery, and even a superintendency.
John Spottiswoode, of the house of Spottiswoode, the minister of Calder, was
the first superintendent of Lothian (a) ; yet it was not till May 1581, that
some fifteen or sixteen ministers of the circumjacent kirks, with a lay elder from
each congregation, were constituted the presbytery of Edinburgh. Before the
year 1593, the churches of Lothian had been formed into five presbyteries, con-
sisting of Edinburgh, Dalkeith, Linlithgow, Haddington, and Dunbar ; and
these five, with the presbyteries of Peebles and Biggar, formed the synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale (&).

At the dawn of record, the appropriate church of Edinburgh is obscure. In
David I.'s charter to Holy rood, we see the church of the Holy Cross, on the
east of the burgh or castellum, St. Cuthbert's on the west, and the chapel of
the castle. The town certainly existed, however, and it even then had a kirk

(u) Maitland, 498. (x) Pari. Eec, 472.

(y) Foundation charter belonging to the Earl of Morton, in Macfarlane's MS. Collections.
Iz) They may be seen, however, in Maitland's Edin., and Amot, and more recent accounts of that
■metropolis.

(a) He seems to have been appointed to this charge in July 1560. He sustained the burden of this
•charge during twenty years without satisfaction or profit. He died on the .5th of December 1585,
aged 76, and was the father of the worthy archbishop. Spots. Hist., 344.

(b) The presbytery of Edinburgh now contains two-and-twenty parishes, including the ten of
Edinburgh.

Sect. \lll.— Its Ecclesiastical Historij.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B E I T A I X. 773

which, in elder times, was dedicated to St. Giles (2) ; but the burgh of Edwin
had not the honour, like Linlithgow and Haddington, of being the seat of the
archdeacon or dean, and in the ancient Taxatio, we may see " Ecclesia de
" Sancti ^gidii de Edenburgh, in decanatu de Linlithgow." The reason of
such neglect or degradation may have been that the abbot of Holyrood
was too near to admit of the easy residence of an archdeacon or dean in
Edinburgh.

The burgh of Edwin, according to its narrow limits of ancient times, formed
only one parish, even as low down as King James's reign. Tlie church of
this urban district was originally consecrated to St. Giles, who flourished,
according to the Benedictine chronologists, in the sixth century {d). Why
the founders of Edinburgh church chose St. Giles for a tutelary guardian, it is
idle to ask and vain to inquire. In the Analecta of Mabillon, wherein there is
an English calendar of the seventh century, St. Giles does not appear. Under
James II., an arm of St. Giles was brought to Edinburgh, by Preston of Gor-
ton, which was thankfully received, and honourably requited (e). In the
twelfth century, there was, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, a farm which
was called *S'^. Giles's grange, and which David I. conferred on the monks of
Holmcultram {/). This had probably been the appropriate grange of the
parson of St. Giles's chuixh. As the parish church of the town of Edinburgh,
St. Giles's church is often mentioned, from the twelfth to the sixteenth century;
and as the parish did not extend into the country beyond the walls, it appears
in those times to have been of little value {g). In 1384, the Scottish barons

(c) The town and its parish were then co-extensive, and their circumscribed limits consisted of the
Nor-loch, the Castle-hill, the Cowgate, and St. Mary's Wynd.

(rf) L'Art de Verifier les Dates. His festival was the 1st of September. His constant companion
was a hind. In the Lives of the Saints, published at Leyden, 1519, there is a print of St. Giles
sitting with his hind. The hind of Giles is one of the heraldic supporters of the Edinburgh arms, to
the present times ; yet is the city motto, "Nisi dominus frustra."

(e) Arnot's Edin., 268. On the 1st of September 1558, the festival of St. Giles, a protestant mob
raised a tumult, in the midst of which the sanctity of St. Giles was violated, and his images broken,
and his arm derided. In June 1562, the magistrates directed the portraiture of St. Giles to be cut out
of the city standard, as an idol, and the thistle, as more emblematical of rude reform, to be inserted.
Maitl. Edin., 23.

(/) Fordun, 1. xi. c. 21. In 1512, Sir John Crawford, one of the prebendaries of St. Giles's
college, granted 33 acres of land in the burgh moor to a chapel which he had built at
Saint Geilie grange. MS. Donations. This is the place that is called in modern maps
Giliegranr/e.

(.'/) In the ancient Taxatio it was rated at only 26 marks.
4 '5 E

774 An ACCOUNT Ch. Y.—EiUnburghshire.

met in St. Giles's churcli, and resolved on war with England (h). In 1385,
St. Giles's church and the town were burnt bj Eichard II. (i). It was pro-
bably damaged rather than destroyed, and it was soon repaired {d). The ad-
vowson of St. Giles church appears to have been always in the king ; and in
December 1393, Robert III. granted to the monks of Scone the right of pa-
tronage in the chui'ch of St. Giles, and every other right which he or his pre-
decessors had in the same church ((/). During the fourteenth, the fifteenth, and
the sixteenth centuries, it was the practice at Edinburgh, as in other cousider-
erable towns, to appropriate the penalties which were imposed for faults, to the
use of St. Giles's church. The domestic companies or crafts used to impose
fines for the breaches of their bye-laws, which were made payable to the use of
St. Giles's church ; and thus a fund was gradually established for the useful
objects of repairing the church and its chapels, and supporting the vicar.

Before the reign of James III. many altars and chaplainries were founded
by persons and corporations, and were consecrated to their favourite saints (m).
Besides the endowments of the founders, for those altars and chaplains, many
persons gave private donations, which were occasionally granted by well-meaning

(/() Lord Berners, fo. .317. St. Giles's churcli became tlie frequent place for the solemn meetings of
the general councils and the Three Estates.

(t) Bower, 1. xiv. c, 50.

(k) In November 1387, there was an indenture between the provost of Edinburgh and several
masons, for building and vaulting five chapels, with altars, on the south side of the parish church
of Edinburgh. Maitl. Edin., 270. This is one of the very earliest specimens of the Scoto-Saxon
lanoTiage : " Alsua it is accordyt, yat ye foresayde communitie shall gyf to ye foresayde masounys,
for the forsayde work, as it is before spokyn, sex hundreth mark of sterUng, of the payment of
Scotlande."

(/) Chart. Scone, 95. This grant of Robert III. was confirmed, in 1395, by Walter, the bishop of
St. Andrews. lb., 98. In the same year both these grants were confirmed by a bull of Benedict.
lb., 99-124. From this epoch of degradation St. Giles's church was served by a vicar, while the
monks of Scone drew the parsonage dues. In 1451 John Methven, a doctor of laws, was i-icar of
Edinburgh and clerk of the rolls and registers. Eym., xi., 287. From 1454 to 1459 Nicolas
Otterbum, the vicar of Edinburgh, was a frequent ambassador, and clerk of the rolls and registers,
lb., 349, 404, 423. There is a remarkable charter of James IL, in 1452, entailing the lands of
Barntoun on George Earl of Cathness, and his heirs and assirjiis, and his natural daughter ; with this
proviso, that he, or his assigns, should cause to be paid to his bastard daughter Janet, on a particular
day, between the rising and setting of the sun, in the parish church of St. Giles, in his burgh of
Edinburgh, upon the high altar of the same, three hundred marks usual money. Hay's Vindicatiuu of
Eliz. More, 6.

(m) Maitl. Edin., 271, has transcribed a long list of a thousand altare and <:hapels, which piety had
fannded in St. Giles's church, and fanaticism demolished. In 1213 Walter Chepman, the early
printer, endowed a chaplainry with 20 marks, which he dedicated to St. John.

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histori].'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 775

individuals [n). When St. Giles's church was made collegiate in 1466, the re-
venues of those altars and chaplainries were allotted for the new establishment.
Besides all those chaplainries in St. Giles's, there were in Edinburgh various
other chapels and oratories (o). In 1559, all those altars were demolished,
and the chaplainries were disused [p). After this ancient church had been thus
despoiled, it was mechanically divided into various departments, which were
set aside for different purposes ; either for preaching ; for the administration of
justice ; for teaching ; for a prison ; for a work-house ; for the town clerk's
office ; and for other purposes of less importance and dignity. The principal
division, which had been formed out of the choir, was fitted up in 1663, and
called the New Church. In it were erected the seats for the king, for the
magistrates, for the judges; and from such appropriations it was denominated
afterv/ard the High CJiurch.

On the first distribution of the protestant preachers in July 1650, one only
was allowed to Edinburgh, which, in fact, was at that epoch merely one parish;
and Knox himself was the appropriate minister. He soon obtained a colleague
in so populous a charge, and after experience had shown that these were too
few for so many people and so much duty, two more were added ; and four
continued to be the number who administered to the good people of Edinburgh
throughout the 16th century ; and they preached in two of the divisions of
St. Giles's church, which were called, the New Church and St. Giles's Church.
It was the policy of King James, while he continued in Scotland, to have
Edinburgh divided into four parishes, but without accomplishing his object,
as he seems not to have known how to obtain his end. The town council in
October 1853, ordered Edinburgh to be divided into four quarters, correspond-
ing to four parishes {q). The ancient rights of the parish had been abolished,
and it seems not to have then occurred, amidst the anarchy of the times, that
an act of parliament was the legal mode of establishing new parishes with new
privileges. The order of the town council remained unexecuted, and when
the guilty magistrates obtained the king's pardon for the treasonous riot of
1506, it was stipulated as one of the articles of reconcilement, that the four
ministers who had hitherto lodged togetlier in St. Giles's church-yard should

(?i) MS. Donations ; Roberts. Index ; and Maitland.

(o) Muitl. Edin., 185, 189, lOG ; Ainot's Edin., 145-7—248.

{p) The magistrates of the town on that occasion appropriated the jewels and other valuables.
Maitl., 272-3. They took down St. Mary's bell and the brazen pillars of St. Giles's church, which
■were converted into money. Id.

{q) Maitl., 42.

77G AnACCOUNT [Ch. V Edinburghshire.

live separately in their several divisions (r). The year 1598 may be deemed
the epoch of the division of Edinburgh into four parishes, though they were not
formally established for some years (s). In 1620, four new ministers, who had
been often promised, were added to the four old ones, that were supposed to be
insufficient (t). The town council was either unable or unwilling to provide
stipends for so many ministers (u) ; and it was not till 1625, after the accession
of Charles I., that the reiterated wishes of James VI. were carried into effect
by the pious solicitude of his son. In September 1625, the city council passed
an ordinance, dividing Edinburgh, with the West Port, the Cowgate, and the
head of the Canongate, as annexed by a late act of parliament, into four par-
ishes, with two ministers to each district, so that the town should have eight
ministers, exclusive of the principal of the college (x). Here, then, was a great
object well effected ; and thenceforth the magistrates of the town became
patrons of its ministers.

(r) Maitl. Edin., 53. The four ministers' houses in St. Giles's church-yard, which now forms the
Parliament Square, were given to the king ; but for what purpose is not obvious.

(s) Birrel's Diary. On the 20th November 1598, the Lord's supper was administered in all the
four several parish kirks of Edinburgh. Id. The four churches were St. Giles, New Church, Trinity
College Church, and the Tolbooth Church. Maitl., 24.

(<) Spottiswoode's Hist., 541. In the parliament of 1621, an act passed, ratifying diverse
infeftments to the town of Edinburgh, for sustentation of the college, ministers, and hospitals ; and
another passed, disjoining the parts lying within the ports of Edinburgh, from St. Cuthherfs and
Hobjroodhouse. Unprinted Acts, 1621, Nos. 48-49. Here, then, is business. Revenues are provided,
and the urban parishes are enlarged, by disjoining certain parts of the circumjacent parishes
of St. Cuthbert and Holyrood. But nothing was said of the right of patronage, which remained in
the king.

(u) Calderwood, 815, breaks out into indignation on that occasion at the magistrates' ambition, and
avarice, and malice, which prevented them from providing stipends for honest men and godly professors.
He might have said, in few words, that the magistrates continually dissipated their revenues on the
frivolity of feasting or the baseness of corruption.

(,r) Maitl. Edin., 277. In that ordinance there was an express proviso, that the magistrates should
resort to the High Church, called St. Giles; and further regulations were made for effecting
that desirable measure, in presence of the ministers and the archbishop of St. Andrews. The
king directed his privy council to ratify that ordinance, giving the right of patronage to the
magistrates ; and in November 1625, the privy council passed an act, ratifying the whole
measure. lb., 279. The historians of Edinburgh do not inform us what churches were then
assigned to those four parishes ; but they pretty plainly appear to have been : 1-2, Two of the
divisions of St. Giles's church ; 3, The Trinity Church, which had been fitted up some time before ;
and 4, The Old Gray Friars Church, which the magistrates had built, in 1612, in the midst of
the cemetery, which had been laid out, in 1562, on the site of the Gray friars convent and
gardens.

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histovii.'] OrNOETH-BEITAIN. 777

When the ill-fated episcopate of Edinburgh was established in 1633, St.
Giles's kii-k was erected into the cathedral church of this see with the usual
privileges. The principal minister of St. Giles's church was constituted the
dean of the diocese of Edinburgh, and the chief ministers of the other three
churches were to be three of the twelve prebendaries {y). This establishment
was torn down in 1638; was re-established in 1662 by parliament ; and in
1689, was finally abolished by the Revolution {z).

When zeal in its progress made every

" One speak mucli of right and wrong,
Of justice, of religion, truth, and peace,
And judgment from above; ''

the four parish churches were found insufficient to accommodate the people of
Edinburo-h, and the common council in 1641, resolved to divide the town
into six parishes (a). Yet, amidst a thousand distractions and infinite waste,
it required more than twenty years to carry that necessary measure into full
effect (h).

The zeal of 1699 discovered that those six churches were insufficient to
accommodate the augmented numbers of the religious people of Edinburgh, and
a seventh parish was laid out by the name of the Neio North Church parish (c).

(y) Charter of Erection, in Keith. In pursuance of this establishment, Charles I., in October
1633, wrote the magistrates, to remove the partition walls within the church, and to make it
altogether fit for a cathedral ; but there is reason to think that they did not comply. Maitl.
Edin., 281.

{z) Laohlan Shaw's MS. Hist, of the Scot. Church. (a) Maitl. Edin., 141, 281.

{h) The building of the Tron Church was begun in 1641 : divine service was performed in it in
1647 ; but it was not quite finished till 1663. The proper name was Christ's Kirk ; but the ancient
tron standing near the site, as we may see in the old maps of Edinburgh, the popular voice over-ruled
the consecration to God. Maitl. Edin., 110. The building of this church, which has since been new-
modelled, to accommodate the transverse street, by the North and South Bridges, cost £36,000. In
1641, the magistrates began to build another church on the Castle hill; but, finding other emplo)^-
ment for their revenues, they pulled down what they had built. Dame Margaret Ker, Lady Yester,
now came to their aid. She bequeathed the magistrates £15,000 for building a new church, which
was finished in 165.5 ; and she gave £5,000 for supporting the minister of it. Maitl. Edin., 181, who
describes the limits of Lady Tester's parish ; and in this manner were the magistrates enabled, in
1662, to complete the establishment of six churches, which they had projected in 1641. In 1663,
such had been the changes of revolutionary times, the magistrates enlarged and new-modelled the
stipends of their twelve ministers. Maitl., 141.

(c) Maitl., 180, describes it as containing "all the LvclLeti-hoo\\\ Eow, and other closes,
wyuds, and streets ; " and he, in order to show his antiquarian learning, informs his reader

778 An ACCOUNT \Ch.\.— Edinburghshire.

The north-west compartment of St. Giles's church, which had been a prison,
was now fitted up as a church, by the name of Haddo's Hole ; as one Haddo
had been herein long confined for whatever crime of treason against the
covenant or the king. The historian of Edinburgh gives vent to his indigna-
tion at the irreverent names which were appropriately given to its churches {d).
There is certainly nothing very promotive of devotion in the names of the
Tolhooth kirk, Haddo's Hole, or the Tron. Sarcasm has said that under the
ancient regimen, ignorance supposed the paternoster to be a saint. It may be
suspected of the fanaticism of 1641, without much uncharitableness, that the
folly which could substitute the name of the Tron for Christ Church, might
suppose some saint to be couched under the consecration to Jesus Christ. When
the increased population of the JVeiv Town required an additional place of
worship, the magistrates, with great propriety, dedicated this church to St.
Andreiv ; their city being the domicile of all Scotsmen in foreign parts. In what-
ever quarter of the globe Scotsmen reside, the name of Saint Andreiv collects
them into a society, promotes their sociability, incites their charity, and inspires
their patriotism.

Edinburgh has always been the pious seat of many chapels. Though the
Revolution abolished the temporal rights of episcopacy, it did not take away its
spirituality ; and in 1709, James Greenshields, clerk, opened a chapel in
Edinburgh, wherein he administered to several persons who were of the English
church. The presbytery of Edinburgh, the magistrates of Edinburgh, and the
Court of Session, concurred in thinking his conduct punishable as illegal.
He appealed to the supreme judicatory of the Peers in parliament, who reversed

that the Flemings, who usually brought woollen cloth, which they called Laden, gave this name to
the row of shops where the Lachen was sold ; and yet Lucken, in the Saxou, means shut ; covered
booths, in contradistinction to the open booths, of the street.

(d) Maitl. Edin., 179-80, describes the new parish of Haddo's Hole. There was a new parish laid
out in 1722, with an additional church, which was called the Neiu Gray Friars Church ; and in
the subsequent year Edinburgh was divided into nine parishes. lb., 188. And St. Giles's church
was now formed into four places of worship : 1st, The High Church, or New Church ; 2nd, The
Old Church ; 3rd, The Tolbooth Church ; and 4th, Haddo's Hole, or the Little Church. In
addition to all those services, the aisle of St. Giles's church, which is venerable for its antiquity
and dignified by its retrospections, is fitted up for the annual meetings of the General Assembly
of the Scottish church, with a throne for the royal representative. When St. Andrew's church was
erected in the New Town, the ten parishes of the present time were established, though without
precluding the new arrangements, which an augmented population and sound piety might thereafter
dictate.

Sect. VIII.— /i!s Ecclesiastical History.] Op NORTH-BEITAIN.

779

the sentence of the magistrates and the decree of the College of Justice (e).
It is not easy to express how much true charity was now extended by this
reversal. In 1722, the chief baron Smith endowed a chapel at the foot of
the Gray Friars Wynd, for those holding communion with the church of
England {/). In 1771 was founded in the Cowgate a capacious chapel for
the English communion, which was properly ornamented and even painted by
Runciman. Arnot delights to describe this elegant chapel, with its altar, its
organ, and its spire, which is accommodated by the bell which had belonged
to the chapel royal of Holyroodhouse (g). Before the year 1802, a great
variety of other chapels were erected in this metropolis, which shows the pro-
gress of its population, of its opulence, and its freedom of thought, as well as
its universal charity (h).

(e) Eobertson's Oases, 15. This adjudication was immediately followed by the 10th Aune, ch. 7,
to pi-event disturbing the episcopal communion in Scotland.

(/) Arnot's Edin., 287. An intolerant populace did not regard this chapel with a favourable eye,
and they demolished several of its windows. Caledonian Mercury, No. 347. In December 1723, the
episcopal ministers of several meeting-houses were brought before the magistrates, for not being
qualified according to law, and not praying for the king. lb., 577. Two other episcopal chapels
were built in 1747. Arnot, 284 ; and before 1750 there were settled five other chapels ; a Eoman
Catholic chapel, a French chapel, and several meeting-houses of Independents and Quakers. Maitl.
Edin., 215.

(g) Arnot, 284-6.

(h) The subjoined detail not only shows the number of churches and chapels in Edinburgh, but the
comparative wealth of their several congregations ; being an extraordinary collection which was made
on the Srd of January 1802, for the Charity Work-house, in the following

Churches

Chapels:

In St. Andrew's Church -

- £63

New Episcopal Chapel

- £37

The High Church

- 29

Charlotte Chapel -

- 27

Lady Tester's Church

- 28

Belief Meeting

- 24

The Tron Church

- 23

The Tabernacle -

- 15

The Tolbooth Church -

- 23

Lady Glenorchy's Chapel -

- 14

The New North Church -

- 19

Peddie's Congregation

- 12

The New Gray Friars Church

- 14

Nicholson's Street Meeting -

- 12

The Old Gray Fiiars Church

- 14

Hall's Meeting

. 10

The Old Church -

Bapti-st Congregation

- 10

The College Church

Drummond's Chapel

Independent Meeting

JE228

Universalists' Society

177

£177

£405

780 AnACCOUNT [Ch. V .—Edinburghshire.

In the castle of Edinburgh, even before the accession of David I., there was
an appropriate chapel which was probably built by Margaret, the pious queen
of Malcolm Canmore {i). In 1291, many persons swore fealty to Edward I.
" in capella castri puellarum {k)." Robert II. granted to St. Margaret's chapel
in the castle, an annuity of £8 out of the customs of Edinburgh {I). The
chapel of the castle formed a conspicuous object in the ancient maps of Edin-
burgh. In August 1704, Walter Smith, clei'k, the minister of the castle,
petitioned the parliament, " craving payment of £75 sterling, owing to him
for his stipend, free of poundage and invalid money ; " but he was remitted to
the committee of public accounts for his debts, and to the treasury for what
might become due (hi). This chapel seems to be extra- parochial, having its
own district with j^eculiar privileges (?i).

The church of St. Cuthbert is unquestionably ancient, perhaps as old as
the age which followed the demise of the worthy Cuthbert, towards the end
of the seventh century. It is older than record in Scotland. It had several
grants before the charter of Holyrood (o). St. Cuthbert's church, with its
parish and its kirk-town and all its rights were granted, as we have seen,
by David I. to the monks of Holyrood. He also granted to them the two
chapels which belonged to St. Cuthbert's church, Corstorphine, w^ith two
bovates and six acres of land, and the chapel of Liberton, with two bovates
of land and all its rights ; and he moreover conferred on those monks the
tithes of all the fishings which belonged to St. Cuthbert's church on the Forth,

There was a Gaelic chapel founded on the south side of the Castle-hill in 1767, and finished in
1779. Arnot, 283. A Eoman Catholic chapel was built in 1778, and burnt in 1779. lb., 288 ;
Edin. Guide, 32-3.

(?) David I. granted to the monks of Holyrood, as we know from his charter, ecclesiam castelli, witt
all its rights.

{k) Eym., ii., 569-71.

(/) Kobert III., on his accession in 1390, confirmed this grant. Eegist. Bob. III. Rot., s. 9.

(in) Minutes of the 25tb August 1704 ; and the unprinted acts of that date.

(«) Maitl. Edin., 142-65.

(o) Macbeth of Liberton, who flourished early in David's reign, granted to the church of St. Cuth-
"bert the tithes and oblations of Legbemard, a church which cannot now be traced. Chart. St. Crucis.
David I., soon after his accession, gi-anted to St. Cuthbert's church, " justa castellum," the whole
land, under the same castle, viz., " a fonte qui oritur juxta angulum gardini reg. per viain,'' which
■went to the same church ; on the other side, from the castle, to another way, which is under the
castle, towards the east. MS. Col. of Charters from the Autograph. This description seems to be
imperfect ; yet the limits of St. Cuthbert's parish surrounded almost the whole town, and included the
burgh-moor.

Sect. YllL—Its Ecclesiastical History.'] OfNORTH-BBITAIN. 781

including Newhaven ( p). At that epoch, St. Cuthbert's, as it was the oldest,
was the most extensive parish in the lowlands of Mid-Lothian. At that period
St. Cuthbert's was the most valuable church in Scotland except Dunbar. In
the ancient Taxatio, the church of St. Cuthbert " sub castro," in the deanery
of Linlithgow was rated at 160 marks. Yet from that epoch, St. Cuthbert's,
from being a mother church, with subordinate chapels and other rights, became
a vicarage (q). Besides the high altar there were in St. Cuthbert's chui'ch
several other altars which had been consecrated to various saints by pious
votaries, with appropriate chaplains {)•). St. Cuthbert's church had of old other
chapels belonging to it. It had St. Mary's chapel at the foot of Chapel Wynd.
On the burgh-moor it had St. John's chapel and St. Rogue's chapel. This last
had a cemetery, to which leprous persons were sent fi'om Edinburgh during the
prevalence of the plague ; and in 1532, the magistrates granted to Sir John
Young, the chaplain, four acres in the burgh-moor, for keeping in repair the
chapel and praying for the souls of those who were buried in its cemetery. St.
Rogue's chapel and its pertinents were converted after the Reformation into
private property, by those men who could deride the piety of their fathers, and
had little other pretensions to religion than grimace and zeal (s). At Newhaven
there was a chapel which also belonged to St. Cuthbert's, and served for the
worship of the fishers, while the monks of Holyrood enjoyed the tithes. In
1606, Newhaven and North-Leith were formed into a separate parish by
dilapidating St. Cuthbert's. In 1633, this very ancient church and its patron-
age were conferred on the bishopric of Edinburgh (t) ; but when this episcopate
ceased at tlie Revolution, the patronage returned to the crown. *

(p) Chart, of Holyrood in Maitl. Edin. That grant of David I. was confirmed by several charters
of the bishops of St. Andrews.

(q) In Bagimont's Eoll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of St. Cuthbert's, in the deanery
of Linlithgow, was taxed at £6 6s. 8d. The same vicarage appears ir\ the Tax Eoll of the arch-
bishop of St. Andrews, 1547.

(?■) MS. Donations. In October 1487, William Towers of Inverleith, granted an annuity of 14
marks for supporting a chaplain to officiate at St. Anne's altar in St. Cuthbert's church. Id. In
January 1489, Alexander Cumer, vicar of Haddington, granted various rents from tenements in
Edinburgh, to support a chaplain to officiate at the Trinity altar in the same altar. Id.

(s) Amot, 250, expresses his indignation at the imprcvidence and impiety of allowing the private
appropriation of a burial ground, which might have been made so commodious to the city, for the
same necessary purpose.

(<) Charter of Erection.

[* See "Church and Parish of St. Cuthbert," 1829].
4 5F

782 An A 0 C 0 U N T [Ch. N .—EdmhurghMre.

The Canongate parish is of very recent establishment. This suburb did not
exist at the foundation of Holyrood Abbey, The canons were empowered to
settle here a village, and from them the street of this settlement was called
the C&nongate, from the Saxon gaet, a way or street, according to the practice
of the 12th and 13th centuries in Scotland and in England. The immunities
which the canons and their villagers enjoyed from David's grant soon raised
up a town, which extended from the abbey to the Nether- Port of Edinburgh ;
and the townsmen performed their usual devotions in the church of the abbey
till the Reformation reversed all this regimen. In the room of the abbot was
now introduced by the king's grant a commendator, who enjoyed some of his
privileges, and held as a trustee all his property. The temporal superiority
of the Canongate was now transferi-ed by the facility of James VI. to the Earl
of Roxburgh, who sold it in 1636 to the magistrates of Edinburgh, and
this bargain was confirmed by the charter of Charles I. in 1639 {u). In this
manner then did the Canongate, as it was already a suburb, like Leith
and other districts, become the dependency of Edinburgh, having resident
magistrates, who were annually appointed by the town council of Edinburgh.
Amidst this scramble for patronage, the abbey church of Holyrood continued
to be used as the parish church of the Canongate with appropriate ministers (a;).
In 1672, however, the privy council, in pursuance of the king's order, dii-ected
the abbey church to be used in future as the chapel royal (y) ; yet was it stiU
enjoyed by the parishioners for divine service, and it was not till 1687 that
James VII. directed them to be excluded, and this chapel be appropriated to
the Order of the Thistle (z). Owing to a pious bequest of Thomas Moodie,
a merchant in Edinburgh, a fund had existed almost forty years for building
a parish church, but amidst the public distractions and private mismauage-

(m) Maitl. Edin., 148. In 1633 the bishop of Edinburgh was invested with the patronage of the
abbey church ; and the parson of Holyrood was created, by the act of erection, one of the prebendaries
of the new episcopate. When this establishment was cast down in 1638, the magistrates of Edin-
burgh acquired the patronage of the abbey church, and obtained an act of confirmation from the
rescinded parliament of 1640.

(x) In 1640, the magistrates obtained a parliamentary ratification of the patronage of the abbey
church. In 1663, the parliament passed an act concerning the stipends of the Cancngate ministers.
TJnprinted Act.

(y) AiTiot, 253.

{z) Fountainhall gives an account of that appropriation, i. 466. The inhabitants of the Canon-
gate, whose church this was not of old, were ordained to go to Lady Tester's church, and the
French minister and his congregation were sent to the High School. " So this," he adds, " is the
first j)rotestant church taken away from us." If James VII. had done nothing worse than this I

Sect. Vni.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] OrNOETH-BEITAIN. 7^5

ment, that trust had remained unexecuted (o). The Canongate parish has two
ministers. The patronage of the first belongs to the king, and of the second
to the magistrates, the kirk-session, the heritors, and deacons of the eight in-
corporated crafts of the Canongate (b).* [In 1887, there were in the city of
Edinburgh 37 churches in communion with the Church of Scotland; 42 in com-
munion with the Free Church ; 27 United Presbyterian Churches ; 22 Scottish
Episcopal Churches and Missions ; 4 Koman Catholic Churches ; 7 Congrega-
tional Churches ; 3 Evangelical Union Churches ; 4 Baptist Churches ; 1
United Original Seceders Church ; and 1 Wesleyan Methodist Church.]

The influx of Leith water into the Forth was called of old Jnwer-leith, which
has been abridged to Leith, like other towns in Scotland having similar
names ; and a consideration of the Gaelic name carries the mind back to
Celtic times, before the consecutive accessions to the throne of Malcolm Can-
more's children. The inver, or issue of Leith, was a port and had a fishery,
even before David I. became king. At that epoch, the port and one half of
the fishery of Inverleith, with the village of Newhaven and the adjacent fields,
which were all included in St. Cuthbert's parish, were conveyed by David I. to
the canons of Holyrood (c). Noi-th-Leith with the Castle-hill lying on the
southern side of the river were parochially attached to the abbey church,
where the inhabitants long performed their devotions. Under James IV.,
Robert Ballenden, the abbot of Holyrood, endowed a chapel in North-Leith,
which he dedicated to St. Ninian, for the convenient worship of the people ;
and he gave them an additional convenience by building a bridge of three
arches, that connected the northern and southern sides of the port. This
endowment, which comprehended some benefactions to the poor, was con-
firmed by James IV. in January 1494 (</). This chapel was subordinate to the
abbey church of Holyrood, till it was converted into a parish church in 1606.
The patronage of old belonged to the abbots, and afterwards to the commen-

(a) In 1649, Moodie bequeathed to the magistrates of Edinburgh 20,000 marks for building a
church. In 1672, the people of the Canongate foreseeing their want of a church, informed the king
of iloodie's legacy and of its fitness for building them a church. Maitl. Edin., 142. la 1681, that
sum and its accumulations of inteiest were placed by parliament at the king's disposal. Unprinted
Act ; and the whole was now assigned by James VII. to the original purpose of the pious Moodie,
by building a church in the Canongate, wherein the old rights of individuals should be preserved.
In pursuance of that direction, ground was purchased, and a church was built in 1688-9 at the
expense of 43,000 marks Scots. It was built in form of a cross, and on the front were placed,
in obvious allusion to the ancient legend, the figures of the head and horns of a stag, with a cross
erect. Maitl. Edin., 142-60. We may easily suppose that these emblems were set up before the
Eevolution, since " they figured the nature of the times deceased."

(6) The gi'eater part of the area and lofts of the Canongate church belongs either to the incorpor-
ated trades, or to various noble families who were formerly connected with the king's household.
Stat. Acco.. vi., .566. [♦ See also Mackay's "Burgh of Canongate,'' 1879].

784 AnACCOUNT [Oh. \ .—Edinburghshire.

dators of Holyrood. From John Bothwell, the comtnendator of Holyrood,
the people of North -Leith purchased St. Ninian's chapel, with the chaplain's
house, the tithes, and other pertinents belonging to it. They now rebuilt
the chapel and the chaplain's house, and they obtained from the parliament
of 1606 an act, erecting the district belonging to it into an appropriate
parish (e), and investing in the kirk-session the revenues for the minister's
stipend, which was then settled at 800 marks Scots, and which was afterward
augmented to double the amount {f). In 1630, Newhaven, with the adjacent
lands and the chapel, were annexed to the parish of North-Leith, which since
1606, comprehended little more than the town [g). In 1633, the parish of
Noi"th-Leith thus enlarged was annexed to the episcopate of Edinburgh.
George Wishart was minister of North-Leith at the epoch of the Covenant,
and refusing to adopt what he could not approve, was imprisoned as a felon
and deprived of his charge. He retired into countries of more charity, where
he became chaplain, first to the great Montrose, and afterwards to the queen of
Bohemia, and returning to England at the Restoration, he obtained the
rectory of Newcastle, and soon after the bishopric of Edinburgh {h). The
magistrates of Edinburgh, who were studious to purchase every right within
their reach, bought from the Earl of Roxburgh the superiority of North-Leith
with its dependencies [i), and they wrested from the people the patronage
of the church, which was theirs by purchase and possession {k). When the
bishopric of Edinburgh was restored in 1662, the magistrates of Edinburgh
were deprived of what they had usurped, and in 1689, when episcopacy was
abolished, the parishioners were restored to their right of patronage, which they
still enjoy (^). [In 1888 there wei-e in Leith 7 Established Churches; 6 Free
Churches ; 7 United Presbyterian Churches ; 1 Scottish Episcopal Church ; 1

(e) Unprinted Act. (/) Maitl., 498 ; Unprinted Act, 1640.

(g) The place was called Neichaven, in contradistinction to tlie old haven of Leith, when James IV.
established a dock-yard here for building ships. In April 1508, Sir James Cowie formally resigned
the chaplainry of Newhaven to the king, and the magistrates of Edinburgh, fearful of some evil from
that establishment, purchased it from the king. Maitl., 500.

(6) Keith, 39. He was consecrated bishop in 1662, and died in 1671. Id.

(t) Maitl., 148.

(/,:) The violence of the magistrates was ratified in the reprobated parliament of 1640, whose con-
duct was congenial with their own. Unprinted Act, 1640.

(I) When Cromwell built the Citadel at North-Leith he deprived the parishioners of their
burying-ground. John Eay, when he came to Leith in 1661, saw the Citadel which Cromwell
built on the site of the cemetery at the expense of £100,000. There were three forts advanced
above the rest, and two platforms. The works round about were faced with free-stone towards
the ditch, and were almost as high as the highest buildings within. Ray's Itinerary, 195. Upon
its demolition the Duke of Lauderdale, knowing the passion of the magistrates of Edinburgh for

Sect. Ylll.—Ifs Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 785

Roman Catholic Church ; 1 Congregational Church ; 1 Evangelical Union
Church ; 1 Baptist Church ; and 1 Wesleyan Methodist Church.]

The parish of Restalrig, which is merely a corruption of Lestalric, is not so
ancient as the former; at least, it does not appear in the ancient Taxatio. The
meaning of the name, which seems to be Saxon, is as obscure as the origin of
the parish. At the demise of William the Lion, this district of Lestalric was
possessed by a family of the same name (m). There was undoubtedly a church
and parish of Restalrig, lying between Duddingston and Leith, at the demise
of Alexander III. (n). During the reign of Robert I., a family of the name of
Logan obtained a right to Restalrig with its pertinents (o), and the Logans
continued to be the barons of Restalrig till the year 1604, before they became
forfeited for their participation in Cowrie's conspiracy {p). Tlie patronage of

pre-eminence, procured a grant of the site of the Citadel with the privileges of a burgh of barony.
The magistrates, perceiving the danger of such a neighbour, purchased his right at an exorbitant
price. Maitl., 499.

(wi) In 1214, Thomas de Lestalric granted some tenements in Leith, which he describes as lying
southward of the Iliijh Street between Edinburgh and Leith. Chart. Inohcolm, 16. This street seems
to be the same as the road which is now called Leith Walk.

(n) In 1291, Adam of St. Edmunds was parson of Lestalric, and he had a right to the sheriff
of Edinburgh to deliver him his lands and rights. Eot. Scotise, 6. The same Adam, the parson
of the church of Lestalric, swore fealty to Edward in 1296. Prynne, iii., 656 ; and he had a
precept for delivery of all his rights. Eot. Scotiffi, 29. John de Lestalric was then baron of Lestal-
ric. Prynne, iii., 654.

(o) In 1398, Sir Eobert Logan of Eestalrig, knight, sold to the magistrates of Edinburgh
some ground, lying between the river and the houses of South-Leith, for the convenience of lading
and unlading their ships, and the use of a passage or road between Edinburgh and Leith
through his barony of Eestalrig, and he gave them also the right of erectincr granaries for corn,
and of keeping shops for the sale of commodities in the town of Leith. Such is the origin of
the rights of Edinburgh in South-Leith. In 1555 the queen regent purchased from Eobert
Logan of Lestalrig, the superiority of the town and links of South-Leith ; and the inhabitants
of the town of South-Leith advanced £3,000 Scots of the price, on an engagement, however, that
she would erect South-Leith into a royal burgh, and this the regent queen in some mea-
sure carried into effect. Maitl. Edin., 486. She even erected a house for her residence at Leith,
and she thus attracted several nobles to follow hei' example. lb., 496. But the Eeformation
darkened all their prospects, and the siege of Leith in 1560 ruined all. In 1566, Queen
Mary, amidst her distresses, borrowed 10,000 marks of Edinburgh, and mortgaged the superiority
of Leith for the repayment. lb., 27. When the queen was dethroned in 1567, the town
council of Edinburgh, taking advantage of the existing anarchy, took possession of Leith by an
armed force. lb., .31. After a thousand oppressions the magistrates of Edinburgh, by watching
occasions, at length obtained a complete title to the superiority of Leith. See Maitland
throughout.

{p) Arnot's Grim. Trials, 46-60 ; Unprinted Act, 20th Pari. Ja. VI.

786 ;AnACCOUNT [Cli. \. —Edinburghshire.

the church of Restalrig was confirmed to Thomas Logan in 1435, by William,
bishop of St. Andrews (q). A collegiate establishment was made in this parish
of Restalrig by James III., improved by James IV., and completed by James V.,
But this collegiate erection seems not to have interfered with the parsonage,
which remained entire till the Reformation (r). The first general assembly of
the reformed church, which met, without authority, at Edinburgh, in December
1560, ordained the kirk of Restalrig to be utterly destroyed as a monument of
idolatry ; and the parishioners were ordered to perform their future devotions
in Leith chapel (s). It was the chapel of the Virgin in Leith to which the
parishioners of Restalrig wei'e thus transferred by that violent decree of a
fanatical assembly (t). The revenues of the chaplainries were now appropriated
as a stipend for the ofiiciating ministers of Restalrig parish (u). Robert
Logan, the profligate baron of Restalrig, sold this barony in 1604, to the first
Lord Balmerino, the secretary of state (x). In 1609, the parliament divested
the church and parish of Restalrig of their legal rights, which were conferred on
Mary's chapel in Leith, with the whole revenues and pertinents ; and South-
Leith was now made a separate parish, and the patronage of the new chui'ch
was declared to belong to the patron of the old (y). The church-yard which

(q) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Collections.

(r) In Bagimont's Eoll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Restalrig, in the deanery of Lin-
lithgow, was taxed at £20 Scots. The rectory of Eestalrig also appears in the Tax KoU of the
archbishop of St. Andrews, 1547.

(s) Keith's Hist., 499.

(t) This chapel had been founded a century and a half before, and it had been enriched by
many donations. MS. Col. of Donations. lu 1490 Peter Falconer of Leith granted an annuity
of 13 marks for supporting a chaplain at St. Peter's altar in the Virgin Mary's Kirk. Id. In
1499, Gilbert Edmiston of Leith granted a rent of 12 marks to St. Barbara's altar in the same kirk.
Id. The choir of this chapel was destroyed by the English invaders, under the Earl of Hertford, in
1544.

(?/) Maitl., 487. In 1593 the people of Leith added another minister at their own expense.
Id.

(x) Dougl. Peer., 65. Eobert Logan of Lestalrig, who was concerned in Gowinc's conspiracy.
1600, seems to have died a bankrupt about the year 1607. He sold, in 1596, his estate of
Nether-Gogar to Andrew Logan of Coatfield. In 1602 he sold his lands of Fastcastle to
Archibald Douglas. His barony of Eestalrig he sold to Lord Balmerino in 1604, and his
lands of Quarrel-holes he disposed of in 1605. Douglas Peer., 65, who quotes charters in the Pub.
Archives.

(y) Unprinted Act, 1609, No. 5 ; Maitl., 488. The patronage of this parish was acquired
in 1604 by Lord Balmerino, and his descendant forfeited it in 1746. The patronage of the first
minister now belongs to the king after so many forfeitures, and the patronage of the second

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 787

surrounds the ancient church of Restalrig continues to be the cemetery of the
parish ; and many pious christians, who do not concur in thinking the ancient
fabric to have been an idolatrous fane, continue to bury their dead among their
respected progenitors (2).

The ancient parishes of Corstorphine and Gogar form tlie present parish.
CORSTORPHINE is a mere corruption of Crostorphin, as appears from the original
orthography of the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries. The change of Cros for
Cors is very common in the vulgar practice of Scottish topography. It obtained,
doubtless, that name from a cross which may have been erected in memory
of some person having the dignified name of Torfin. But it is not easy to
connect it by historical retrospection with Torfin, the grandson of Malcolm II.,
the son of Sigurd, one of the reguli of Caithness, who fell at the battle of
Clontarf, near Dublin, in 1014 A.D. In the 12th century, the manor of
Corstorphine had a chapel which was subordinate to the Church of St. Cuthbert.
This chapel had then a glebe of two oxgates, and six acres of land ; and it
was granted by David I., with St. Cuthbert's church, to tlie canons of Holy-
rood (a). Corstorphine remained a chapelry during the reign of Alexander II. (6).
It was disjoined from St. Cuthbert's, and erected into a separate parish by the
bishop of St. Andrews. The parish church of Corstorphine, with its lands and
tithes, continued to belong to the canons of Holyrood till the Reformation
altered the old regimen. Under James I., Sir John Forester founded a chapel
to St. John iu the church-yard of Corstorphine, and this he formed into a
collegiate church in 1429, which became the parish church after the Reforma-

belongs to the kirk-session and incorporated trades. In 1750 there was, in South Leith, a chapel of
the church of England, wherein those performed their devotions who prefer a service book to extem-
porary pra3-ers. Maitl., 495.

(z) Maitl., 503. In 1720 Alexander Eose, the last bishop of Edinburgh, who witnessed the
suppression of his church in 1G89, was interred amid the ruins of the church of Eestalrig.
Keith, 41.

(a) Chart, of Holyrood.

(b) In that reign David, the king's marshal, granted to the canons of that house the meadow called
Ilardmedive, which lay within the limits of Salchtun, in exchange for two acres of land belonging to
the chapel of Corstorphine, which were between his corn-land. Macfarlane's MS. Colleoticms. The
Marshals continued to hold the lands of Corstorphine at the end of the 13th centuiy. Thomas
le Marshal of Corstorfin swore fealty to Edward I. in August 1296. Prynne, iii.. 660. Sir
David Marshal forfeited those lands under David II., who granted them to Malcolm de Eamsay.
From him Corstorphine passed to Sir William More of Abercorn, who sold the same property, in
the reign of Eobert II., to Adam Forrester, whose descendants held Corstorphine till the recent reign of
Charles II.

788 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

tion (c). The church of Gogar is older than that of Corstorphine. It was,
however, of less extent and of little value. In the ancient Taxatio, the church
of Gogar, in the deanery of Linlithgow, was rated at 12 marks. The canons of
Holyrood early acquired the church of Gogar, which was confirmed to them by
David, bishop of St. Andrews, in 1240 (d). In 1269, Andrew, the parson of
Gogar, swore fealty to Edward I. ; and, by a writ to the sheriff of Edinburgh,
was restored to his revenues (e). Gogar seems, however, to have been detached
afterward from Holyrood abbey. For in Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under
James V., the rectory of Gogar was taxed at £5 6s. 8d., and none of the mon-
astic churches were taxed in that Boll. In 1429, the tithes of Upper-Gogar
were granted by Sir John Forrester to the collegiate church which he founded at
that time at Corstorphine, and Gogar was one of the prebends of his collegiate
establishments (/'). After the Reformation had thrown such erections, the
parishes of Corstorphine and Gogar were united, and the college church of
Corstorphine became the parish church ((/). In 1633, an act was passed uniting
certain lands to the kirk of Corstorphine, and another for disuniting the prebends
from the collegiate church (h). At that ill omened epoch, the church of Corstor-
phine and its pertinents were annexed to the bishopric of Edinburgh ; but upon
its final abolition in 1689, the patronage was granted to Sir James Dick, whose
descendants enjoy it. [In 1888 the Parish Church had 520 commmunicants,
stipend £350. A Free Church of 1884 has 236 members.]

The name of the parish of Libertox, which was anciently written Lihertun, is
obviously of Saxon original, though its real etymology be somewhat doubtful.
It is, probably, a corruption of Leper-tun, which, perhaps, may derive some
support from the consideration that of old a hospital existed at Upper-Liberton
where the church stands, whence the place may have been called Sintal-toum (i).
At the epoch of record, Liberton was a chapelry subordinate to the church of

(c) In 1477 William Chalmer, the vicar of Kiikurd, granted some lands in tlie manor of Corstorphine,,
and various annual-rents, for supporting a chaplain to oiBciate at St. Xinian's altar, in Corstoi-phine
church. This endowment was confirmed, in 1477, by James III. MS. Donations.

(d) Register of St. Andrews. («) Eym., ii., 724.
(/) Charter in Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Collections.

(</) It is still the parish church, and it is a respectable building of Gothic architecture, in the form
of a Jerusalem cross. The arms of the founder are exhibited on various parts of the church, and
several monuments of this family are placed in niches within the church. The figures sculptured in
stone are as large as life, and are executed with skill. The male figures are represented in ai-mour,
and the female figures in the costume of the age. The roof of this church is formed of large flag-
stones, which are supported by strong arches. Stat. Acco., xiv., 448-50.

(h) Unprinted Act, of that session.

(i) Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 293.

Sect. VIII.— /te Ecclesiastical History.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 789

St. Cuthbert ; and there belonged to the chapel a glebe of two oxgates of land,
and this chapel was probably dedicated to the Virgin, as there is a spring in
the vicinity which is called our Lady's well. The earliest notice of this chapel
has been mistakingly carried back to the age of the renowned MacBeth, by
confounding Macbeth of Liberton, who flourished under David I., with MacBeth
who fell at Lumphanan, in December 1056, by mistaking a grant of MacBeth
of Liberton to the church of St. Cuthbert for a grant of his to the chapel of
Liberton {k). With St. Cuthbert's church, David I. granted the chapel of
Liberton to the canons of Holyrood. He gave them also thirty cart-loads of
brushwood from his woodlands of Liberton, and to these grants he added the
tenth of the multure of his mill of Liberton (I). At that epoch Upper-Liber-
ton, where stood the chapel, belonged to MacBeth, while Nether-Liberton, the
mill, and other demises, were held by the king (m). At the request of the
abbot of Holyrood, the chapelry of Liberton was disjoined from St. Cuthbert's
church by the bishop of St. Andrews some time after the year 1240 (n). The
church of Liberton, thus constituted, continued with the canons of Holyrood
till the Pteformation. As the rectory belonged to those canons before that
epoch, the cure was served by a vicar (o). There were in this parish
of old two chapels which were subordinate to the church. The most
ancient was St. Catherine's chapel, near which there is a remarkable
spring, called the Oily Well, and dedicated to St. Catherine. In former times

(k) Arnot's Edin., 5, fell into those mistakes ; and lie was followed by tlie Eev. Thomas Whyte
in his account of this parish for the Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 298. MacBeth held a considerable
pai-t of the lands of Liberton during David I's reign, and he had the honour of witnessino- some
of David's Charters. Diplom. Scotiae, fol. xvi. ; Chart. Newbotle, No. 11; Dalrym. Cal., 429-
Chart. Holyrood. Those charters leave no doubt whether MacBeth of Liberton flourished under
David L

{I) Chart, of Holyrood. The mill of Liberton came down from David I. to Eobert L, who
granted from it five marks sterling yearly to the preaching friars of Edinburgh. MS. Monast. Scotiee
68.

(rn) In August 1296, Alan de Libertoun and David de Libertoun, the tenants of the king in Edin-
burghshire, swore fealty to Edward 1. Prynne, iii., 656. This notice, with others of a similar kind,
evince the import of the terms " tenants of the king " in this roll. They were tenants of the kino- in
his demesne and not his tenants in chief ; and we have just seen that the king's demesnes in Libertoun
descended to Eobert Bruce.

{n) There are several notices of the parson of Libertoun in the long reign of William the Lion, in
the Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 299, by the Rev. Thomas Whyte ; but these and other intimations un-
happily ajiply to Libertoun in Lanarkshire.

(o) There belonged to the vicarage of Liberton a husband-land in the manor of Gilmerton.
Iiiquisit. Special, 1607, iv., 93.

4 5G

790 An account [Oh. \.— Edinburghshire.

St. Catherine's Well was resorted to by persons having cutaneous complaints,
with some salutary effects {p). Around the chapel was a consecrated burying-
ground. After the Reformation, St. Catherine's chapel became a ruin, and was
completely demolished, early in the last century, by some sacrilegious person,
who was remarked by the neighbouring people not to have afterward pros-
pered [q). Near that holy site there is a mansion, which continues to bear the
name of St. Catherines. The other chapel in this parish was dedicated to the
Vii'gin by Wauchope of Nidderie, the lord of the manor, in 1389. The descen-
dant of the founder re-endowed this chapel with a manse and glebe for the
chaplain, reserving the patronage to his family, and James IV, confirmed this
endowment (r). At the Reformation this chapelry and its revenues were
annexed to Liberton church. Nidderie chapel was demolished at the Revolu-
tion by the same zealots who defaced the chapel of Holyrood (s). After the
Reformation, the patronage of the church of Liberton was enjoyed incidentally
by the commendators of Holyrood, and was granted in 1607 to John Bothwell,
the last of the commendators, as a pertinent of his temporal barony {t). The
church of Liberton in 1633 was constituted a prebend of the bishopric of
Edinburgh. But upon the ultimate abolition of episcopac}', the patronage of
the church of Liberton devolved on the king, who conceded a share of the
forfeiture to the descendants of the original founders of Nidderie chapel {u).
[The present Parish Church, erected in 1815 on the site of an ancient church, has
801 communicants ; stipend £550. A Free Church of 1870 has 245 membei's.]
The name of Duddingston parish was wnritten in the charters of the I'ith
and 1 3th centuries Dodinestun. It appears to have obtained its designation,
like other district, from the name of Dodin, whose tun it was, during the

{p) Of the supposed miracles of St. Catherine's well Boece delighted to tell. The nuns of the
Sheens, on the burgh-moor, made an annual procession to St. Catherine's chapel and well. When
King James returned to Scotland in 1617, he visited the Balm Well of St. Catherine, and caused it to
enclosed with a stone wall, with a door and steps for the accommodation of the afflicted patients, but
in 1C50 this charitable building was demolished and the well choked up by Cromwell's soldiers, who
did not regard its medicinal use.

(q) Trans. Antiq. Soc, 324. (r) lb., 368 ; MS. Donations.

(e) Of the chapel there remains now only the burial-place of the family of Nidderie Marishal,
Trans. Ant. Soc, 345.

(t) Crawfurd's Peer., 185.

(») Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., where may be seen an elaborate account of this parish with some
mistakes. Under the insidious toleration of Jaines VII. a dissenting meeting-house was established at
Craigmillar, but it was crushed by the Eevolution. On the 22nd of May 1685, Little of Liberton 's
lady was imprisoned for harbouring conventiclclers, but on his entering into prison for her she was
liberated. Fountainhall, i.. SG;!.

Seot.\in.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OpNORTH-BKITAIN. 791

reigns of David I. and Malcolm IV. (x). This parish had been settled in pi'ior
times, though its more ancient name cannot now be known. During the reign
of William the Lion, the monks of Kelso acquired tlie church and lands of
Dodinston, but from whose bounty cannot accurately be told, since the
chartulary is silent. As those lands lay at some distance from Kelso, the abbots
let them on the most advantageous terms (y). Within the barony of Dudding-
ton, the abbots appointed their baron-bailies, who executed their jurisdiction
within their proper limits (2). The church of Duddingston appears to have been
of moderate value, and in the ancient Taxatio, it is rated at 25 marks.
During the reign of Robert Bruce, the monks valued the rectory according to
the established use, at £20 a-year («). The rectory continued to belong to the
monks of Kelso till the Reformation, and the cure was served by a vicar (^9).
After the Reformation, the patronage of Duddingston church, with the manor
passed through successive proprietors to James, Earl of Abercorn, who pur-
chased it in 1745 from the Duke of Argyle, and formed here an elegant
seat. In 1630, the estate of Prestonfield was disjoined from the parish of

(x) In those early times ttere lived several persons of tlie name of Dodin. Chart. Kelso, 37, 272 ;
Diplom. Scotiae, pi. 24. Dodin gave to the monks of Kelso the church of Linton-Eoderick, in the
presence of Herbert, the bishop of Glasgow. Chart. Kelso, 433. Dodin, who gave his name to
Dodingston parish, cannot be exactly ascertained ; yet, " Hugo fllius Dodiui de Dodines-tun " appears
in a charter of William de Vetereponte to the canons of Holyrood during the reign of William the
Lion. Dalrymp. Col. Pref., Ixvii. ; and Dodin of Dodinestun lived under Malcolm IV., as we see
him a witness in a charter of Simprin. Chart. Kelso, No. 272.

{ij) Abbot Henry, from 1208 to 1218, at the end of the long reign of William, granted to Eegenald
de Bosco the lands of Easter-Dodineston, with the half of the peatery of Camberun, rendering for the
same 10 marks yearly. Chart. Kelso, 453. Abbot Herbert confirmed to Thomas, the soir of
Eeginald, the same lands and peatery for the same annual-rent ; he performing to the king
" forinsecum servitium.'' lb., 241-454. Abbot Hugh granted to Emma, the widow of Thomas, the
custody of her son and heir, till he should arrive at lawful age, for which she paid twenty
pounds of silver, " quas nobis paccavit unacum maritagio sui ipsius libere." lb., 455. During the
reign of Robert I., Abbot William granted to Sir William de Tushelaw the half of the manor of
Wester-Dodinston, for which he was bound to pay 12 marks of yearly rent. lb., 547. From this
manor, in that reign, the monks were paid 24 marks of silver. lb., 20. In 14G6, Abbot Allan
granted to Cuthbert Knighston a part of the lands of Dodinston, in fee, for the yearly rent of four
marks. lb., 491.

{z) In the Chart. Kelso, 544, there is a deputation to Sir Simon Preston, knight, by Abbot Patrick,
as baron-bailie.

(a) lb., 31.

(b) In August 1296, John Comhale, the vicar of Dodinestun. swore fealty to Edward I., and
received, in return, a restitution of his revenues from the sheriff of Edinburgh. Eym., ii., 724.

792 An ACCOUNT [Oh. Y.— Edinburghshire.

St. Cutlibert and annexed to Duddingston (c). The parish church stands at
West-Duddiiigston, at the south-east base of Arthur's seat. It is a very ancient
fabric, and its arches and ornaments, when examined with antiquarian eyes,
may seem to be as antique as the days of Dodin. [In 1883 it had 287 com-
municants.]

The name of the parish of Ckamond is merely a corruption of the British
Caer-amon, the fort on the Almond {d) ; and the site of the Roman station
and the place of the modern town, which are both the same, are on the eastern
bank of the Almond river, at its influx into the Forth. David I., when he was
studious to introduce English barons into Scotland, granted one half of the
manor of Cramond with the church, to Robert Avenel, and among his other
liberalities, Avenel transferred both to the bishop of Dunkeld (e). Nether-
Cramond, whereon stood the church, at the mouth of the Almond, was from
that transfer called Bishop's Cramond, while the other half of this manor,
which long remained in the crown, was known by the name of King's Cramond.
The bishops of Dunkeld had a residence at Cramond, and in 1210, Richard
de Prebenda, the bishop, died here, and was buried in the neighbouring
monastery of Inchcolm, to which he had granted 20 shillings a-year, from the
chuich of Cramond (/). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Cramond does
not appear among the churches in the deanery of Linlithgow, as it was i-ated
with the churches within the bishopric of Dunkeld. It continued a mensal
church of the bishops of that diocese, till the Reformation dissolved such con-
nections. The cure was served by a vicar, and he was appointed by the
bishops, who drew the parsonage tithes, while the vicar enjoyed the small tithes.
In Bagimont's Roll as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Cramond was
taxed at £4 among the extra-benefices of the bishopiic of Dunkeld. In the
church of Cramond there were of old two altars. The one was consecrated to

(c) In 1631 the presbytery of Edinburgh ordained an aisle to be added to the church of Dudding-
ston, at the expense of the proprietor of Prestonfield, for the use of himself and his tenants. Stat.
Acco., sviii., 366.

(rf) In the charters of the 12th and 13th centuries, that name is written Caramond. Chart. Inch-
colm ; Dalrymp. Col.

(e) Dalrymple's Col., 397. Eobert Avenel died in 1185. Chron. Melros.

(/) Chart. Inchcolm, No. 3; Fordun, 1. viii. c, 75. In 1256, the dean and chapter of Dunkeld
confirmed the pious donation of bishop Eiehard. Chart. Inchcolm, No. 17. In 1357, John,
the bishop of Dunkeld issued a precept to Thomas, the perpetual vicar of Cramond, directing
him to pay the monks of Inchcolm 40 shillings sterling from the revenues of his church. lb. 4.
In addition, the monks of Inchcolm had a rent of 23s. 4d., from the mills of Cramond. Inquisit.
Speciales. xvii., 94. The abbey of Inchcolm became thus the convenient burial-place of the bishops
of Dunkeld.

Sect. ym.—Its Ecclesiastical History.-] OfNOBTH-BRITAIN. 7 93

Columba, the patron saint of Dunkeld ; and the other was dedicated to the
Virgin, and both were endowed with lands and rents for the support of an ap-
propriate chaplain {g). After the Reformation had exploded such chaplainries,
Sir Thomas Hamilton, the first Earl of Haddington, acquired a right to the lands
which had thus been conferred, and which descended to his heirs {h). At the
Reformation, the bishop of Dimkeld received from the church and demesnes of
Cramond, 58 chalders of victual (^). At the Revolution, the bishops of Dunkeld
received only £100 Scots from the same church and lands (k). Such had been
the dilapidations of the intermediate period (/) ! Alexander Douglas of Edin-
burgh appears to have acquired the bishop's manor of Nether-Cramond during
James VI. 's reign. He sold it in 1624 to James Inglis, who, upon Douglas's
resignation, obtained it from the superior. Bishop Lindsay, with the consent of
liis chapter. [The parish church has 496 communicants, stipend £566. Granton
Chapel of Ease has 269 members. A Free Church at Cramond has 165 members.]
CoLiNTON parish was of old called Hales, or in modern form Hailes, which
is still the name of an estate in this parish. The mansion of Hailes, where the
ancient church stood, is about half a mile north-west from the village of Col-
inton. The name of this district as well as the appellation of Hailes in East-
Lothian is derived from the Celtic Hales, a moor or hillock, and Hale in
this sense is still retained in the Cornish [n). The plural form of the word
arose from there having been two places, East-Hale, and West-Hale, in this

(g) In 1478 Alexander CuiTour, the viair of Dunsyre, mmle various donations of lands and
rents to the chaplain of Columba, for his support and his dwelling. James III. confirmed his
grants in 1478. The patronage of both those altars was acquired by the Moubrays of Barnbougle.
Wood's Cramond, 73.

(/() Inquisit. Speciales, xv., 140 ; xvi., 1 ; xviii., 202.

(J) MS. Rental of that See. {k) MS. Rental.

(/) In 1589 Sir James Elphinston. a lord of session, secretary of state, and the first Lord Balmerino,
procured from Bishop Rollock a lease of the tithes of Cramond, for two terms of 19 years each,
for payment of 260 marks Scots yearly. The folly and fraudulence of such a contract need not
be mentioned. This Lord Balmerino was tried and convicted of a treasonous breach of trust
as secretary of state in 1609. Spottiswoode's Hist., 507-11. In 1631 Bishop Lindsay of Dunkeld
made an ineffectual attempt to reduce by law that improvident lease. Durie's Decisions, 585. This
fact explains the cause of the second Lord Balmerino's enmity to the bishops, which induced him to
raise sedition against the king, for which he was tried and convicted, pardoned and rebelled. Nalson,
i., 4. The last Lord Balmerino, following the example of his fathers, fell under the axe of the law,
on Towei-hill, in 1746.

(in) Dougl. Baronage, 264. Inglis then obtained the lands of Nether-Cramond, the manor-place,
the harbour, with the privileges thereunto belonging. For other particulars of this parish see Wood's
Cramond.

()i) There is in Cornwall a village named Hale ; and see Borlase's Cornwall, and Pryce's
Archaiologia.

794 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. N.— Edinburghshire.

parish, and South-Hale and North-Hale in East-Lothian. The lands and
cliurcli of Hale in Mid-Lothian were granted by Ethelred, one of the sons of
Malcolm Canmore, to the monks of Dumfermline ; and his grant was con-
firmed by his younger brother David I, (e) The church of Hailes seems to
have been withdrawn from the monks of Dunfermline and given to the canons
of Holyrood, who obtained a confirmation from David, the bishop of St. An-
drews (p). The church uf Hailes was afterward given to the canons of St.
Anthony in Leith ; and this gift was confirmed to them by Bishop Kennedy
in 1445 {q). In December 1482, the preceptor of St. Anthony, at Leith, had a
suit in parliament against John, Lord Carlyle, for the tithes and rents which
appertained to the kirk of Hailes (r). It continued, probabl}^ with the canons
of St. Anthony till the Ileformation. The church of Hailes appears to have
been always of great value, and it was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 60 marks.
As the rectory was monastic property, the cure was of old served by a vicar.
Though the church of Hailes ceased to belong to the monks of Dunfermline,
they continued superiors of the lands of East-Hailes till the Reformation.
The family of Cricliton held those lands of the monks of Dunfermline, for pay-
ment of a certain feu-duty. On the forfeiture of William, Lord Ci-ichton,
in 1484, the lands of Hailes reverted to the abbot, as superior, who held them
three-and-thirty years (r). In 1506, Abbot James granted the estate of Hailes
to Thomas Forester (s). The name of this parish has been changed in modern
times to Colinton, as the parish church stands at the village of this name, on
a flat, round which the water of Leith winds its circular course ; and the town
of Colinton obviously obtained its modern appellation from some person called
Colin, whose tun it was {t). The present parish church was built in 1773, and
its manse in 1784. [The church was enlarged in 1837 ; communicants 765. A
Free Church at Juniper Green has 339 members; and a U. P. Church at Slate-
ford has 87 members.]

(o) MS. Monast. Scotiae. The grant of David was confirmed by the bishop of St. Andrews.
Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., and it was confirmed by a bull of Gregory in 1234. MS. Monast.
Scotiae.

{p) Eeg. of St. Andrews, 33. We are assured by Fordun, 1. viii., c. 62, William, the bishop
■of St. Andrews, withdrew from the monks of Dunfermline, the presentation of the vicarage of Hales ;
•" qui a quadam vice dum pernoctaret ibi, deficit sibi potus vini ad coUationem suam in camera
sua.

(fy) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., No. 5. (;•) Pari. Eec, 288.

(r) Pari. Eec, 307. {f) Chart. Dunfermline, 37.

(t) The name was formerly written Colintoun. In 1609 Sir James Foulis of Colintoun was served
heir to his father, Sir James, in the barony of Colintoun, comprehending the brew-lands of Colintoun,
with the corn and fuUimj mills, the lands of Swanstoun, Dreghorn, Bonalay, Baddis, Pilmure, and
■Oxengangs. luquisit. Speciales, iv., 282.

Sect. YUL— lis Ecclesiastical History.] OrNOETH-BRITAIN. 795

The parish of Currie was of old called Killeith or Killeleith, as it was
variously written. It plainly obtained this Celtic name from the Gaelic cill,
signifying a church or chapel, which was prefixed to the name of the water of
Leith, on which stood the ancient church (m). There is still a hamlet that is
named Killeith on the eastern side of Leith water near Currie. The church of
Killeith was early of considerable value ; as in the ancient Taxatio it was rated
at 50 marks. The parsonage of Killeith was of old the appropriate benefice of
the archdeacon of Lothian, and thus continued to the Reformation. In 1296,
William, archdeacon of Lothian, and parson of the church of Killeith, swore
fealty to Edward I., who commanded the sherili of Edinburghshire to restore
him to his property {x). Currie appears to have become the name of this
parish during the 15th century; yet, was the old name occasionally used, as
we have seen, till recent times. Archibald Whitlaw, the archdeacon of Lothian,
and Secretary of state to James III., and his successor, granted an annual rent
of 1 2 marks from a tenement in Edinburgh, for supporting a chaplain to per-
form divine service in the parish church of Currie ; and this endowment was
confirmed by James IV. in 1493 {y). As archdeacon of Lothian, Whitlaw was
more than two-and-twenty years rector of the church of Currie. In 1584,
James VI. granted to the newly founded college of Edinburgh, the parsonage
and the vicarage of Currie, with the tithes, church-lands, glebe, and their
pertinents, anciently called the archdeaconry of Lothian ; and this grant he
confirmed to the city of Edinburgh in March 1603 {£). The town council of
Edinburgh, owing to those grants, still enjoy the patronage of the church of
Currie. The village of Currie, wliere church has stood for ages, is situated on
both the sides of the river Leith, which here runs in a deep channel between
steep banks. The name is merely the Gaelic dure, signifying a deep hollow,
which, in fact, is here formed by the river. The Gaelic Cuii-e and Coire thus
signifying a hollow, are found in many local names, which, in the vulgar
use, have acquired the corrupted forms of Currie and Corrie. Those considera-

(m) In 1609, Sir James Foulis of Colintoun was served heir to his father in the barony of Colin-
toun, particularly in the church lands and glebe of the parish church of Currie, alias Kelkleith, with
common of pasture in the lands and moor of Killeleith within the parish of Currie, and diocese of St.
Andrews. Inquisit. Speciales, iv., 282.

(x) Rym., ii., 724. {,j) MS. Donations.

{z) Maitl. Edin., 244-54. The annexation of the parsonage of Currie to the college of Edinburgh
was ratified by the parliament of 1592. Act, No. 159. In 1636, Charles I. confirmed the
whole archdeaconry of Lothian to the city of Edinburgh for the use of the college. Maitl Ediu
261.

796 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edinbnry/,Mre.

tions with regard to the names of Kil-leith and Currie, cai-ry the mind back to
the Gaehc times which succeeded the epoch of 1020, when the Scottish people
acquired the predominancy here. The parish church, which stands upon a
height above the village of Currie, is a modern edifice, which contributes to give
picturesque beauty to the site. [In 1888 there were 575 communicants. A
U.P. Church at Balerno has 162 members.]

The parish of Ratho, from the name of the baronial residence of old, has
the honour of a British name. The British Rhath, of which the plural is
Rath-au, signifying a cleared spot, a bare place, a plain ; and in ancient
charters the name is written Rathew and Ratheu (a). The ancient church of
Ratho was consecrated to the Virgin, and near it there is a copious spring
called our lady's well (b). This church was early of considerable value, and
in the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 70 marks. Ratho was a rectory, of which
the patronage appears to have belonged to the lord of the manor of Ratho,
which was of considerable extent (c). The baron of Ratho during the Scoto-
Saxon pei'iod cannot be easily ascertained. He probably forfeited his estate
during the succession war, which made so many changes of property. In 1315,
the barony of Ratho and other estates were granted by Robert I. to the
Stewart of Scotland, in marriage with the king's daughter Marjory, who
brought the Stewart's family the Scottish crown {d). On the accession of
Robert II. to the throne in 1371, the barony of Ratho, with its pei'tinents,
and the other estates of the Stewarts, were settled on the king's eldest son and
heir, as the prince and Stewart of Scotland (e) ; and the whole estates of the
Stewarts were formed, on the 10th of December 1404, into a principality, with
regal jurisdiction {/). Charles II., as prince and Stewart of Scotland, granted
several charters to his vassals in the barony of Ratho and Ratho-mi/^'e {g).
Ratho remained an independent parsonage, of which the prince was patron,

(a) See Owen's Diet, in vo. Eath. In the Gaelic and Irish, Rath has originally the same meaning,
and secondarily, denotes a fenced dwelling, a village, a place of security, a fort.

(6) Stat. Acco.. vii., 260.

(c) In 129G, Richard, the parson of BatUeu, swore fealty to Edward I. Prynue, iii., 661. In
i;549, Richard Small, the rector of Ratliau, witnessed a charter of Sir William Douglas. Hay's
Vindication, 59. In 1351, Richard Small, the Rector of Ratheu, witnessed another charter at Dal-
keith. Regist., Dav. H., No. 156.

{d) Roberts. Index, 9. The original charter is in the Register House.

(e) Chart, in the Pub. Archives ; published in Robertson's Lule.x, and in Hay's Vindication.

(/) There is a copy of this charter in Carmiohael's Tracts, and in the MS. Monast. Scotise ; as,
indeed, there was once a copy in the Regi-^ter and among Haddington's Collections.

{g) Regist., Cha. II., No. 108, 245, etc.

Sect. YIll.—Its Ecclesiastical Ilistori/.} OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 797

even down to the reign of James II. (g). In 1429, on the estabhshment of the
collegiate church of Corstorphine, the tithes of Ratho parisli were granted for
supporting its prebendaries [h). In this manner, then, did Ratho church become
a parsonage under the provostry of Corstorphine (i). The Reformation un-
doubtedly introduced a very different regimen. The church is ancient. It stands
a little north of the kirk-town, and west of Ratho house, more than half a mile.
[In 1888 there were 487 communicants, stipend £422. A Free Church has 170
members. St. Mary's Episcopal Church of Dalmahoy has 64 members. There
is also a Roman Catholic chapel.]

The present parish of Kirknewton consists of the parishes of Kirknewton and
East-Calder, which were united about the middle of the eighteenth century.
Kirknewton obviously derived its name from the hamlet of Newton, where the
church was built, on pui-pose to distinguish the kirk-town from the neighbour-
ing village of East-Newton. This parish did not exist, at least under this name,
at the epoch of the ancient Taxatio. During the reign of James IV., the par-
sonage of Kirknewton was of some value. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood
under James V., the rectory of Kirknewton was taxed at £5 6s. 8d. [k). Kirk-
newton continued a separate parish till the year 1750 The two villages of
East and West-Calder derived their names from the stream of the Calder
which divides them, and a little below mixes its waters with the Almond. There
are many riverets of this name both in North and South -Britain, and
they all, probably, derived their British name from the shrubberies on their
banks. The church of East-Calder was dedicated to St. Cuthbert. The manor
of Calder was by Malcolm IV. granted to Rudulph de Clei'e, and from him
it became known by the name of Calder -Cle7-e, to distinguish it from Calder-
Comitis, the adjoining manor. At the accession of William the Lion, Rudulph
granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Caledour and its rights, upon
condition that they allowed him to have, within his court, a private chapel,
without detriment to their mother church. This intimation seems to show that
the patronage of the rectory was then in the monks {I). He granted afterward
to the monks, and to St. Cuthbert's Church of Calder, the tenth of the multure
of his mill of Calder (m), and those grants of the liberal Rudulph were con-

{rj) Alexander Lauder, a son of Sir Alan Lauder of Halton, was rector of Ratho during the reigns
of James I. and James IL, and was consecrated the bishop of Dunkeld in May, 1440, but died on the
11th of October in the some year. Bower, 1. xvi., 2G.

{h) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., 24. (i) Keith, 285.

{k) The same rectory appears in the Tax Roll of the archbishop of St. Andrews, 1547.

(Z) Chart. Kelso, 345. (,«) lb., 34G.

4 5H

798 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

firmed by William the Lion, and Richard the Bishop (n). In the ancient
Taxatio the church of Calder-Clere was only rated at 30 marks. In the rental
of Kelso, during Robert I.'s reign, the monks considered the church of Calder,
which they held "in rectoria," to be worth yearly ^26 13s. 4d., according
to ancient use (o). The church of Calder-Clere continued with the monks
of Kelso, and was served by a vicar till the Reformation exploded such estab-
lishments. The barony of Calder-Clere became forfeited during the succession
war, and was granted in 1306, by Robert I., to James Douglas of Lothian,
the progenitor of the Earls of Morton {p). After the Reformation, the Earl of
Morton, who was now baron of Calder-Clere, acquired the advowson of the
church, and with it the right of the monks to the tenth of the multure of the
mill of Calder {q). At the epoch of presbyteries the parish of Calder-Clere
was attached to the presbytery of Linlithgow. It continued thus annexed till
about the year 1750, when the parishes of Kirknewton and Calder-Clere were
imited, and when both were annexed to the presbytery of Edinburgh. The
patronage of the united parish was now declared to belong, by turns, to the
Duke of Buccleuch and the Earl of Morton, the two patrons of the separate
parishes. A new church and manse were built for the united church in a central
situation, and to this new church was given the name of Kirknewton, as the
appi'opriate name of the united parish. Thus much, then, with regard to the
parishes and churches within the presbytery of Edinburgh.

Let us now proceed to an investigation of the same objects within the
presbytery of Dalkeith, which comprehends fifteen parishes. Dalkeith is also
the name of a parish as well as the seat of a presbyteiy, and this dis-
tinguished name is, no doubt, dei'ived from its confined location by the con-
fluence of the North and South -Esk. Ded-caeth, in the Celtic, literally

(ii) Chait. Kelso, 13-450 : and the same grants were confirmed by successive bishops and priors of
St. Andrews, as we see in the same chartulary.

(o) Chart. Kelso, 31.

(p) Roberts. Index, 7. Robert I. confirmed this manor to William Douglas, the heir of James of
Lothian. lb., 43.

(q) In 1541 the barony of Calder-Clere was confii-med by James V. to James Earl of Morton, who
died in 1553 without the advowson of the church. In 15C4, James, his successor, the well-known
Moi-ton, who fell vmder the axe of the law after committing a thousand crimes, obtained from the
queen, whom he dethroned, a confirmation of all his lands, with the barony of Calder-Clere and the
advowson of the churches and chapels. Pari. Eec, 763. In 160G, William, Earl of Morton, was
served heir to his grandfather in his various estates, including the barony of Calder-Clere with the
advowson of the churches. Inquisit. Speciales, iv., 308.

Sect. YlU.—Its EcclesiaMical History.] 0 f N 0 B. T H - B R I T A I N. 799

signifies the confined dale (r). The parish of Dalkeith appears not in the ancient
Taxatio, as it did not then exist. Its origin is obscure and modern. As the
manor of Dalkeith had, from the grant of David I., belonged to the opulent
family of the Grahames, we may easily suppose that they had a chapel belong-
ing to their court. In 1377, Robert II. confirmed a charter of Sir James
Douglas of Dalkeith, granting the lands of Quylt and Fethan, in Peebles-shire,
for the support of a chaplain in the chapel of Dalkeith. In 1406, Sir James
Douglas enlarged the chapel of Dalkeith into a collegiate church, as we have
seen ; and we perceive, in Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the
Prepositura de Dalkeith, in the deanery of Haddington, is taxed only at
£3 6s. 8d. (s). We are thus led to recollect its collegiate form, and to perceive
that there was no parish church of Dalkeith till after the Reformation, that
introduced a different regimen (t). The advowson of the chapel must have
been always annexed to the manor. Throughout the Scoto-Saxon period
the Grahames enjoyed the manor of Dalkeith with the advowson of the chapel.
John Grahame of Dalkeith resigned the whole manor with its pertinents to
William Douglas, the heir of Sir James Douglas of Lothian, in marriage with
his daughter Margaret, during the reign of David II. (u). Such, then, was the
nature and the epoch of the transfer of Dalkeith from the Grahames to a
very different family. The Douglasses of Lothian sprung from the original
stock in Douglasdale, in the person of Archibald de Douglas, who died in
1238, the grandson of Theobald, the Fleming {pc). Such, then, were the

(»•) For its location see the map of Lotliian, and for the meaning of the name see Eichard and
Owen's diet, in vo. Caeth, which, in the form of Keith, everj'where in North-Britain, conveys the idea
of contraction or narrowness. There is a Dalkaeth in Perthshire, on the Doven, which, below the
Rumbling Brig, runs amid rocks, narrow and confined. Stobie's map. In a charter of Robert I., it is
written Dalkeith. Roberts. Index, 24. On a rivulet, which falls into the Irvine, in Kyle, there is a
place which was formerly called Dalkeith. Font's Survey of Kyle ; but it has been since corrupted
into Daii-keith. Armstrong's map of Ayr.

(.*) The Prepositura of Dalkeith is also mentioned in the archbishop's Tax Roll of 1547.

{t) When the chancellor Morton obtained from Queen Mary in 1564 a confirmation of his estates,
it included the advowson of the college, and prebendaries of the collegiate church of Dalkeith with its
pertinents. Pari. Rec, 763. The specification of such matters to such a man shows clearly that
there was then no parish of Dalkeith.

{u) Roberts. Index, 40-44, and Dougl. Peer., 489.

(.1-) William, the son of Andrew of Linlithgowshire, the son of Archibald, swore fealty to
Edward I. in 1296. Prynne, iii. 660. This William was then called Fitz andretc, to distinguish
him from William de Douglas of Douglas, the chief. William, the son of Andrew, left James
his heir, who flourished under Robert I., and obtained from him, as we have seen, Calder-Clere,

800 AnACCOUNT [Cb. \\— Edinburghshire.

origin and descent of the Douglasses of Lothian and Dalkeith. William
Douglas of Dalkeith was succeeded by James Douglas, his nephew, who died
in 1420, after a long life, and after giving some lands and rents, in 1384, to
the chapel of Dalkeith [y). His son James was made a lord of pax'liament by
the title of Lord Dalkeith under James L, and his grandson, James, the third
Lord Dalkeith, was, in March 1457-8, created Earl of Morton by James II.
The earldom, and the estates and patronages belonging to it, were forfeited

and other lands. Crawfurd's Peerage, 350. Before the demise of Eobert I., died Sir James
Douglas of Lothian, leaving William, his heir, and two other sons. It was this WilUam who
obtained Dalkeith in marriage with Margaret Graham, as we have just seen. During the dis-
tracted reign of David II., history and record are perplexed by the number of Douglases of the
same name of William. Whether William Douglas, who married Margaret Grahame, or William
Douglas of Polbothy, who married Elizabeth, were the knight of Liddesdale. has occasioned mighty
differences among the genealogists ; but I have settled those differences by the decisive inferences
of facts in favour of William of Polbothy, the bastard son of good Sir James Douglas of Douglas.
See the note before, in p. 117-18. It seems equally certain that William Douglas of Lothian
and Dalkeith, obtained from David II. grants of Liddesdale, Eske, and Ewys, in December 1342.
Dougl. Peer. 489, who quotes a charter in the Archives of Morton ; Robertson's Index, 39-40,
confirms that intimation ; and there is an inspesimus charter of the same William Douglas, who
calls himself doniinvs de Liddesdale, dated at Dalkeith the 7th of April 1351. Eegist. David II.
lib. i., 156. This ascertains the grants of 1342 not to have been made to William Douglas of
Douglas, as supposed by some. See before in this vol. 119. We may now perceive that
William Douglas of Lothian and Dalkeith, was laird of Liddesdale ; while William Douglas of
Polbothy, was knight of Liddesdale. There is another proof of the same point, which is quite
decisive as to this litigated question. William Douglas of Lothian and Dalkeith, calling himself
domimis de Liddesdale, dated his charter just mentioned at Dalkeith, where he was then present,
on the 7th of April 1351. Now William Douglas of Polbothy, the knight of Liddesdale, was then
a close prisoner in England ; and the indenture, which was made by Edward III. with William
Douglas, '• son prisoner," upon his freedom, " super liberatione, et retentione in servitio regis,"
was dated at London the 17th of July 1352. Eym. v., 738-40. We now see clearly the true
causes which induced so many writers to confound those two persons of the same name : and we
may also perceive the cause which moved William Douglas of Douglas, to direct William Douglas,
the knight of Liddesdale, to be assassinated in 1353 ; the same knight being retained by Edward lU.,
of whom he had obtained a grant of Liddesdale, to which Douglas of Douglas had his pretensions.
William Douglas, the laird of Dalkeith and Liddesdale, was alive in 1351, but was dead before
1369, when charters speak of him as quondam William Douglas, and when his only child, Mary, was
also dead.

{y) Douglas Peer. 490, quotes the charter of endowment. He founded a hospital also, near the
chapel of Dalkeith in 1396. lb., 491. Eobert IIL, in 1403, granted to James Douglas of Dalkeith,
who had married the king's daughter, Elizabeth, a pension out of the customs of Edinburgh.
Roberts. Index. 140 : and the same king, in 1391, confirmed the grant of James Douglas of Dalkeith,
to James Douglas, his heir, of the castle and town of Dalkeith, and of other lands, to the extent of
600 marks. lb., 153.

Sect. VIII.— 7?.^ Ecclesiastical HisU-ri).] Of NOETH-BEITAIN.

801

when the well-known Eegent Morton expiated his many crimes on the appro-
priate scaffold in 1581. At the accession of James VI., the palace of Dalkeith
was said "to be reserved for the use of the prince, with the orchard, gardens,
banks, and wood adjacent (a)." In 1606, however, William, Earl of Morton,
was served heir to his grandfather in the barony and burgh of Dalkeith,
with the advowson of the church of Dalkeith {h). In 1642, this estate, with
the patronage of the church, was purchased of the Earl of Morton by Francis,
Earl of Buccleuch (c). But it was the amiable Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch
and Monmouth, who was the first of the Scotts who resided here, and made it
fit for the residence of so dignified a family. Dalkeith was one of the four
presbyteries which were given in to the assembly of 1593 {d). Yet the parish
of Dalkeith consisted only of the ancient barony. In 1633, the adjacent barony
of Lugton was taken from the old parish of Melville and annexed to Dal-
keith (e). The church of Dalkeith is old. The mause of the minister was built
in 1681, Dalkeith, like other free and populous towns, abounds with dissenters,
with Burghers and Antiburghers, with Belief-men, and Methodists (/). The
Duke of Buccleuch, as he is lord both of Lugton and Dalkeith, is superior of
the whole parish, and proprietor of three-fourths of it {g). [The old or East
Church was restored in 1852 ; communicants 1017 ; stipend £550. The West
Church (1840) has 353 communicants. A Free Church has 438 members.
Three U. P. Churches have 962 members. There are also Episcopal, lioman
Catholic, Congregational, Evangelical Union, Baptist and Methodist Churches.]
The neighbouring parish of Inveresk, plainly derived its interesting name
from the Gaelic Inver, the confluence of the Esk with the Forth, the Esk-muthe
of the Northumbrian Saxons. At the epoch of record there existed two
manors of this name, Great-Inveresk and Little-Inveresk. The manor of
Little-Inveresk was granted by Malcolm Canmore and Margaret, his queen,
to the monks of Dunfermline ; and their grant was confirmed by a charter of
David I., who added a donation of Great-Inveresk, with the mill, the fishing,
and the church of Inveresk, its tithes and other pertinents (/i). The gift of

(a) Certain Matters of Scotland, 1603. Yet was it restored to tlie Earl of Morton.

[b) Inquisit. Speciales.

((•) Stat. Acco., xii., 26 ; and yet during the reigns of James VI., Charles I., and the usurpation of
Cromwell, the palace of Dalkeith seems to have been used as the king's house.
{(1) Oalderwood, 286.

(e) Unprinted Act, 1633. The samo parliament made an act concerning '■ the parsonage of Dal-
keith and the payment of the taxation thereof.'' Id. In 1633 the parson of Dalkeith was constituted
one of the prebendaries of the bishopric of Edinburgh. Chart, of Erection.

(f) Stat. Acco., sii., 22-5. {g) lb., 22.

[h) Chart. Dunfermline ; MS. Monast. Scotiae. Those grants were confirmed by David's successors
and by a bull of Gregory IX. in 123-1. Id,

802 AnACCOUNT [Ch. N.—Edinhimjhshire.

Great-Inveresk included the burgh and port of Musselburgh at Esh-muhe ;
and this town derived its name from an extensive mussel bank lying in the
Forth, at no great distance from the confluence of the Esk. Alexander II.
established a free warren within the manors of Inveresk and Musselburgh, in
favour of the monks of Dunfermline {i). From the grants of David I., the
monks enjoyed a baronial jurisdiction over all those lands, and they afterward
obtained their baronial jurisdiction to be enlarged into a regality. The church
of Inveresk was dedicated to St. Michael, the archangel. It was in early times,
from its location and populous parish, of great value, and it was rated in the
ancient Taxatio by the name of Muscilburg, at 70 marks. The monks enjoyed
the revenues of the parsonage, while the cure was served by a vicar. Even the
vicai's of Musselburgh appear as witnesses to many charters among men of
consequence {k). Early in the 13th century a dispute arose between the monks
and the vicar, which was settled by the diocesan bishop, who directed that the
vicar should enjoy the small tithes and the offerings at the altars of Musselburgh,
excepting the fish of every sort, and the tithes of the mills belonging to the
monks, for which the vicar was directed to pay yearly 10 marks (/). In the
church of Inveresk there were several altars, with their chaplains, who were
endowed for performing at them their appropriate worship {m). In this
parish there were of old various chapels which were subordinate to the mother
church. Here was the celebrated chapel of our Lady of Loretto, at the east end
of Musselburgh, with the Hermit's cell adjoining (n). During the Earl of
Hertford's ravages, in May 1544, he destroyed the chapel of our Lady of
Loretto, with a part of the town (o). It was soon repaired, but it was finally
abolished at the Keformation, and in 1590 the materials of the chapel,
Avhicli had once so many votaries, were converted by unhallowed hands to the

(t) Chart. Dunfermline. {k) Id.

(l) lb., fo. 26. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of JIusselburgli was
taxed at £5 Gs. 8d. This vicarage is also recorded in the archbishop's Tax Roll, 1.547.

(ni) MS. Donations. In 1 475, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar gave an annuRl rent of ten marks
out of the lands of Cameron to a chaplain in Musselburgh church for such appropriate worship.
James III. confirmed this grant. Id.

(fi) To this chapel of Loretto many pilgrimages were performed, where miracles were supposed
to be wrought. In August 1530, as we learn from Lesley, 442, James V. performed a pilgrimage
on foot to this chapel from Stirling, before his voyage in quest of a suitable wife among the
daughters of France. During that age, Lindsay, the satirist, exclaimed against such pilgrimages
to our Lady uf Loretto, to the Ilennit, and against the effects of such meetings of young men and
women.

(<i) Old Acco. of the Expedit., 11.

Sect. VIII.— At Ecclesiastical History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 803

building of the tolbooth of Musselbui-gh. The site of this chapel and hermi-
tage is now occupied as the villa of a gentleman who knows how to value
both the location and the name of Loretto ( p). At no great distance west-
ward, there was of old a chapel, which was dedicated to Mary Magdalene, with
appropriate endowments, within the grounds of New-Hales (5). In the town
of Musselburgh there were two other chapels, though of less note {>•). The
lordship and regality of Musselburgh, with the patronage of the church of
Inveresk, and of the various chaplainries which were subordinate to it, were
granted by James VI. to his chancellor. Lord Thirlestane, the worthy progeni-
tor of the Earls of Lauderdale (s). Much of this estate, notwithstanding the
profusion of the noted Duke of Lauderdale, and the dangers of forfeiture, came
down to Earl John, who died in 1710. From him, in 1709, Anne, the Duchess
of Buccleuch and Monmouth, purchased what remained of that great property.
There were some smaller rights which were not, perhaps, purchased (t). The
church of Inveresk is old and ruinous. It is still remembered that Oliver Crom-
well used this ancient fane as a cavalry stable (u) ; but it does not require this
additional fact to prove how many men, in that age, made use of religious pre-
tences to gain temporal ends. The minister's manse was built in 1681. Such
has been the increase of parishioners that an assistant minister has been long
found necessary. An episcopal meeting has existed here from the abolition of
episcopacy by the Revolution, under the toleration of Queen Anne. In this

(p) Stat., xvi., 5.

(q) From that chapel the village of Magdalene-Pans on the Forth, and of Magdalene-Bridge on
Niddery-burn, derived their names.

(r) Stat., svi., 6.

(s) In September 1G49, John Earl of Lauderdale was served heir to his father in the lordship and
regality of Musselburgh, with the patronage of the church of Inveresk and of its subordinate chapels.
Inquisit. Speciales, xs.. 1.50. This record evinces that James VI. granted to Lord Thirlestane the
whole lands, manors, regalities, jurisdictions, advowsons of churches and chapels, with every species of
property and right which the monks of Dunfermline had amassed on this pleasant site during so many
centuries. Lord Thirlestane, we see, from the Retour, transmitted the whole to his heirs, notwith-
standing some unpleasant contests with Queen Anne, who had right of dower over the estates which
belonged to the monastery of Dunfermline.

(t) In June 1636, Thomas Smith was served heir to his father, a burgess of Musselburgh, in two
osgates of the lands of Inveresk, 2i acres in the moor of Inveresk, and a tenement in Inveresk, to-
gether with the office of hereditary miller of the mill called the shire mill, within the limits of
Inveresk, with the mill acre ; also to the 6th part of the four corn mill of Musselbnrgh-sckyre, and to
the 6th part of the haugh near the said shire mill. Inquisit. Speciales, xv., 69. Such were the milk
of the monks with the hereditary miller wlio had appropriate rights.

(«) Stat. Acco., xvi.

804 - An ACCOUNT ' Ch. Y.—Edmburghshire.

opulent parish there are also a Burgher meetmg since 1770, and a KeUef meet-
ing since 1783 (x). In 1201, the Magnates ScoticB swore fealty to Alexander,
the infant son of William the Lion, at Muchselburg, whether in the chapel of
Loretto appears not {ij). On the 20th of July 1332, died at Musselburgh, the
illustrious Randolph, Earl of Murray, the guardian of David II., an event which
entailed on Scotland so many miseries. [The Parish Church, erected in 1805,
had in 1888 1100 communicants ; stipend, £631.]

Newton parish comprehends the old parishes of Newton and Wymet. The
name of Newton is obvious, and seems to show that there was, in this neigh-
bourhood, some old town. This parish lay on the western side of the Esk, be-
low Dalkeith. In the ancient Taxatio its church was i-ated at only 18 marks.
The church of Newton and its pertinents were granted, during the twelfth
century, to the monks of Dunfermline, to whom it was confirmed by Bishop
Richard and Pope Gregory (2). Till the Reformation exploded such establish-
ments, the monks enjoyed the patronage, and the cure was performed by a
vicar. The lands of Newton, also, were acquired by those monks, and also in-
cluded in their lordship and regality of Musselburgh. Wymet parish lay west-
ward of Newton, towards Liberton. In ancient charters the name is uniformly
written Wymet. The word is probably Gaelic, though of very doubtful ety-
mology. It has been corrupted into Wowmet, Wolmet, and Woolmet.
David I. granted this church with all its i-ights to the monks of Dunfermline,
and his grant was confirmed by the diocesan, and by the pope. Thus did they
enjoy the parsonage, while the cure was performed by a vicar. This parish was
somewhat larger than Newton, and its church was rated in the ancient Taxatio
at 20 marks. These two parishes were united at the Reformation, and the
lands and churches were included in James VI. 's grant to Loi'd Thirlstane.
The patronage has since been acquired by Wauchope of Edmonston. A new
church was built for the united parish in 1742, and a new manse was erected in
1749 (o). [In 1888 the church had 261 communicants; stipend £384.]

The parish of Lasswade consisted, anciently, of the old parish of this name,
of some part of Melville, and of a considerable share of Pentland parishes.
The church and village of Lasswade stand on a fruitful mead, thi'ough which
murmurs the North-Esk, having the church on its western side, and the
village on both its banks. This pleonastic name of Anglo-Saxon origin,
signifies what the nature of the thing was, a well-watered pasture of common

(x) Stat. Acco., 23-4. {y) Chron. Mail. 181.

(j) Chart. Dunferai. ; MS. Monast. Scotise : Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Collections,
(a) Stat. Acco., xi., 533. The manor of Wymet bounded with that of Lugton on the south-east.
Chart. Newbotle, 46.

Sect. YJll.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'] OF NOETH-BEITAIN.

805

use (6). From the fruitfulness of the district, perhaps, this church was early
of great value. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 90 marks, which exhibit a
higher rate than any church in Mid-Lothian except St. Cuthbert's. The church
and lands of Lasswade were granted to the bishop of St. Andrews as early as
the 12th centin-y ; and it thus became a mensal church of the bishopric. The
parsonage belonged to the bishop, and the cure was served by a vicar (c). The
church of Lasswade constituted one of the prebends of St. Salvator's College,
St. Andrews. In the reign of James III., the church of Lasswade was, by the
pope's authority, detached from St. Salvator's church, and was annexed to the
collegiate church of Restalrig (cZ). This annexation was further confirmed by
James V. in 1515, completing the coUegiate establishment (e). From the epoch
of that transfer, the dean of the collegiate church of Restalrig enjoyed the
rectory of Lasswade, with all its revenues, while the cure continued to be served
by a vicar {f). In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of
Lasswade was taxed at £20, and the vicarage at £2 13s. 4d. ; which evince the
great value of the church at the eve of the Reformation. When the parish of
Pentland was suppressed after Reformation, the barony of Roslin, the lands of
Pentland, and other districts of that parish, were annexed to Lasswade. These
districts form the western division of this parish {g). A new church was built
for the parish of Lasswade, thus enlarged and populous in 1793, and a commodi-
ous manse for the minister was built in 1789 (Ji). [The parish church of Lass-
wade has 709 communicants ; stipend £371. The quoad sacra parish church of
Roslin has 320 communicants, and that of Rosewell 288 communicants. The
Free Churches of Loanhead and Roslin have 278 and 231 members respectively.
A U. P. Church has 302 members. There is an Episcopal Church at Roslin.
and a Reformed Presbyterian Church at Loanhead.]

(5) Lffiswe, in the A.-S., signifies pascum, a common. Somner. And see Leswe, a pasture, in
Kelham's Domesday, 549. And, hence, the old English Les.«e, a pasture ground. The A.-S. Weaht,
and the old English Weyde, signify a meadow. Somner and Bailey.

(c) In August 129fi, Nicolas, the vicar of Leswaid, swore fealty to Edward I., and was, by a precept
to the sheriff of Edinburgh, restored to his property. Prynne, iii., 661 ; Eot. Scotiae, 25.

(d) The transfer was negotiated by John Frisel, a presbyter of the diocese of St. Andrews, who was
appointed the first dean of the college church of Eestalrig. He procured the consent of William
Scheves, the archbishop, and obtained, by a journey to Eome, a bull from Innocent VIII., confirming
this transfer. The bull is in the MS. Monast. Scotiaj. (e) Id.

(/) Yet the archbishop of St. Andrews remained in the superiority of the lands of Lasswade in
1630, and perhaps even down to 1689, when the archbishopric was abolished. Eeliq. Divi.
Andre», 120.

(g) In 1633, the barony of Melville, which had formed the greatest part of the old parish of
Melville, was upon the suppression of Melville parish annexed to Lasswade. Unprinted Act
°f 1633. (b) Stat. Acoo., x., 283. Sir George Clerk of Penycuik is the present patron.

4 5F

806 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \.— Edinburghshire.

The parish of jMelville derived its name from the man, rather than the
person from the parish. Male, an EngUsh baron, came from England into
Scotland during the reign of David I. (6). Here he settled under Mal-
colm IV. and gave his manor the name of Male-vUle («'). The founder of
this church, who was vicecomes of Edinburgh castle under Malcolm IV.,
granted it, in the presence of the bishop of St. Andrews, as we have just seen,
to the monks of Dunfermline. This grant was confirmed by Gregory IX, in
1234; and it was ratified, in 1251, b}^ Gregory de Male-\alle, who enjoyed
this manor at the middle of the 13th century (Jc). This family acquired other
lands in Mid-Lothian during the 1 3th century ; and the Male-villes remained
in possession of their ancient manors, under Robert I., David II., and Robei-t II.
when the original stock ended in a female heir, Agnes, who gave her posses-
sions, with her person, to Sir John Ross of Halkhead. The descendants of
this marriage acquired the peerage of Lord Ross from James IV. ; and the
barony of Melville remained with William, Lord Ross in 1705 (/). The
church of Melville appears to have been of moderate value, and it was rated
in the ancient Taxatio at 20 marks (m). It continued with the monks of Dun-
fermline till the Reformation; yet by an unusual custom the benefice was
enjoyed by a rector, who was presented by the monks, even down to Queen

(h) Caledonia, i., 525.

(i) Galfrid de Male-ville, who lived under David I. and Malcolm IV., and was justiciary under
William tlie Lion, gave to the monks of Dunfermline, in perpetual alms, the church of Male-ville,
with its pertinents, and especially the land, which he had assigned to this church on its dedication.
Chart. Dunfermline ; MS. Monast. Scotiae. This grant was made for the salvation of the souls of
David, and Malcolm, junior, and for the souls of the grantor, and his ancestors, and he stipulated that
the monks should uphold a perpetual light before the sepulchre of the said kings. This is the only
place where I have seen Malcolm IV. called junior, in contradistinction to Malcolm Canmore, his
great-grandfather.

(Jc) Id. Gregory de Male-ville, knight, granted to the monks of Newbotle a stone of wax yearly
from the rents of his lands of Leth-Bernard. Chart. Newbotle, 215. In 1264, he granted them,
what was of more importance, free passage through his lands of Eetrevyn, to and from their lands in
Clydesdale, and this grant of passage was confirmed, in 1329, by" his grandson John de Male-ville.
lb., 223. The same chartulary contains several other confirmations, which show the successions of
this munificent family, down to John de Male-ville, the father of Agnes, who transferred these ancient
possessions to Ross of Halkhead.

(I) Dalrymp. Col., 428. It was purchased, in the last century, by David Eennie, whose daughter
earned it, by marriage, to Henry Dundas, who was created Viscount Melville, in 1802, after executing
the highest offices in the state amidst great men.

(m) In Bagimont's Roll, the rectorg of Melville, in the deanery of Linlithgow, was taxed at £4.
The same rectory is contained in the archbishop's Tax Roll, 1547.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 807

Mary's days [n). After the Reformation had broken such connections, Lord
Ross acquired the patronage of the church of Melville, with the church-lands,
tithes, and glebe (o). In 1633, the parish of Melville was suppressed, and the
barony of Melville, forming the greater part of it, was united to the parish of
Lasswade ; while the barony of Lugton. forming the smaller portion, was
annexed to Dalkeith (p).

The old parish o{ Pentland comprehended the manors of Pentland and Fulford,
with the northern portion of the Pentland hills, which are drained by the Logan
water, that is now better known by the name of Glencorse water. The church
stood at the village of Pentland, in the north-eastern part of the parish, where
its ruins may still be seen by the antiquarian eye ; and from it, half a mile
south-west, stood the mansion, which is now known by the familiar appellation
of Pentland Mains (q). The name of Pentland is obscure in its origin. In the
12th century, it was written in charters exactly as it is at present, Pentland.
From the 12th to the present century the name is uniformly written, in record,
Pentland, but not Pictland or Penthland. The name of Pentland has also
obtained a double application in Mid-Lothian. It is not only the name of the
village and parish of Pentland, but also of an extensive range of hiUs that
stretch southward to the limits of Peebles (r). It is evident that the Pentland
hills borrowed this name from the parish, and not the parish from the hills.
In the 14th and 13th centuries, the northern division of that range was called
the Moo7- of Pentland (s). Pent, in old English, signified inclosed, from the

(ji) In 1546, Magister Archibald Hay, the rector of Melville church, with consent of the abbot and
monks, conveyed all his church lands and glebe, "cum decimis garbalibus earundem, que a dictis
terns et gleba, nunquam sepai'ari solebant." Chart. Dunferm., 23.

(o) On the 18th of September 1634, James Lord Ross of Halkliead and Melville was served heir to
his father James, in the barony of Melville, with the advowson of the churches. Inquisit. Speciales,
xiii., 174. On the same day he was served heir to his mother Jean Hamilton, in the same church,
and tithes, with the pasture in the district of West-Melville. lb., 179. There are other services of
other heirs, in the same record, to the same property.

(^)) On the 31st January 1507, David Crichton of Lugton ^vjs served heir to his father, Patrick, in
the church lands of Lugton, which belonged to the church of Melville, extending to 3^ acres, and to
the tithes within the barony of Lugton. lb., iii., 261.

{q) See the map of Lothian.

(r) In Blaeu's map of Lothian and Linlithgow that range is called Penthlant-hill. Scarcely any of
the Lothian hills have retained their original British names.

(.s) Eobert I. granted to Sir Henry Saint Clair, knight, all the lands, " in mora de Pentlaml,'' with
the pertinents as they used to be held under his predecessor Alexander III. ; and he granted that the
same should be held as a free warren. Regist. Rob. I. ; Rot. c, 07. In the reign of Robert III.,

808 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

Anglo-Saxon, Pindan, to enclose (<); so Pent-land would signify the inclosed
land, the imiosure upon the moor. Pen-llan in the British, would signify the
chief church ; but Pentland church seems to have been always rather incon-
siderable than chief; Pen-llan in the British, would signify also the chief
yard, or inclosure, or the end of the yard, or inclosure. The first derivation,
from the old English, is the most natural and obvious. The ecclesia de
Pentland, in decanatu de Linlithgow, was rated at only 12 marks in the ancient
Taxatio. It appears to have been granted to the monks of Holyrood, and it
was confirmed to them by Bishop David, in 1240 [u). Before the demise of
Alexander III., it appears to have been detached from this monastery, and was
then an independent rectory (a;). In the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries, the pat-
ronage of this church belonged to the Earls of Orkney and Barons of Roslin {y).
In 1476, William Saint Clair, Earl of Orkney, settled on Sir Oliver Saint Clair,
the eldest son of his second marriage, the barony of Roslin, with the lands of
Pentland, the moor of Pentland, and the patronage of the church of Pentland ;
and this settlement was confirmed by James III. In 1491, George, the heir
of Sir Olivei-, obtained, on his father's resignation, a charter from James IV. of
the barony of Pentland, with the advowson of the church (z). In Bagimont's
Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Pentland was taxed at
£5 6s. 8d., which shows that the church had somewhat increased in its com-
parative value, with the other churches in Mid-Lothian (a). Some time after
the Reformation the parish of Pentland was suppressed, and the northern part
was annexed to Lasswade ; and in 1616, the southern portion, comprehending
the barony of Fulford, was united to the new formed parish of St. Catherine's,
which was afterward popularly called Glencorse. The ruin of the ancient
church may still be seen by antiquarian eyes at the old village of Pentland,
the enclosure on the moor.

Henry Saint Clair. Earl of Orkney, granted to Sir John Nudrie the lands, forming the east quarter of
the moor of Pentland, with the half of Enici-aig, in the manor of Pentland, in exchange for the
place and yards of King's Cramond. Robert. Index, 148. In 1410, Henry de Saint Clair, the Earl
of Orkney, granted to his brother, John, the lands of Sunellishope and Loganhouse, in the moor of
Pentland, in Edinburghshire. lb., 166. Maitl. Edin., 506, also evinces that ridge to have been
called the moor of Pentland.

(«) Bailey. (m) Eegist. of St. Andrews, 133.

(x) In 1296, Stephen de Kyngorn, parson of the church of Pentland, swore fealty to Edward I., and
had a precept to the sheriff of Edinburghshire to restore his property. Eot. Scotiae, 24.

(y) When the Earl of Orkney founded the collegiate church of Roslin, in 1446, he granted to it
the church-lands of Pentland.

[z) Dougl. Baron., 247.

(a) The rectory of Pentland appeared in the archbishop's Tax Roll of 1547.

Sect. YlU.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 809

The parish of Glencorse was formed, in 1616, from the old parishes of Pent-
land and Penicuik, and it comprehends the valley of Glencoi-se, with some
extent of country both on the north and south. The northern division was
taken from the parish of Pentland, and the southern from the parish of
Penicuik. In the vale of Glencorse, upon the northern side of Logan water,
there was of old a chapel which was dedicated to St. Catherine, the virgin ;
and which was called St. Catherine of the Hopes, in contradistinction to
St. Catherine's of the Kaims, in Liberton parish. The chapel of St. Catherine's
of the Hopes belonged to the monks of Holyrood, and its ruiii may still be
seen by those eyes which delight to dwell on what is old (h). This church,
and its revenues, and glebe, were annexed, in 1633, to tlie bishopric of Edin-
burgh (c). It was disannexed in 1638, when the jjarish was called Glencross,
from a dislike to saints, at a zealous moment. This glen or vale, was so
called, from a remarkable cross, which had been here erected by pious hands,
and which also gave a name to Cross-houses. The prefix in this name, is the
British Glyn, or the Gaelic Glean, signifying a valley. When episcopacy was
abolished in 1689, the patronage of the parish fell to the king, who seems to
have relinquished it to the proprietor of Fulford, whose name was changed, in
the last century, to Woodhouselee, which is more known to fame by the resi-
dence of distinguished men. [The Parish Church, erected in 1665, has 381
communicants ; stipend £255.]

Penicuik parish comprehends the greatest part of the ancient parish, and
the whole of the old parish of Mont-Lothian. The learned minister of this
parish informs the inquisitive reader, that the Gaelic name means the Cuckoo's
hill (d) : Bein-na-cuack, in the Gaelic, and Pen-y-cog, or Pen-y-coc, in the
British, do signify the Cuckoo's hill or summit. In the records of the 1 2th,
13th, and 14th centuries, the name is spelt Penicok (e), which agrees with the
British form of the word in that signification. The parish and barony of
old were co-extensive ; they comprehended the country which is drained by
the upper branches of the North-Esk (/). The church of Penicuik was dedi-

{b) The intelligent reader will remember that Hojje, in the southern shires, signified a vale, without
a thoroughfare ; and St. Catherine's in the Hopes must mean St. Catherine's in such valleys, or
dingles. (c) Charter of Erection. {d) Stat. Acco., x., 419.

(e) In the ancient Taxatio it is recorded as Penicok. There is a village in Cornwall named
Penkiike.

(/) Robert III. granted to Laurence Crichton the lands of New-Hall, in the barony of Peny-
cok. The estate of New-Hall is on the borders of llid-Lothian, and forms the south-west
extremity of Penicuik parish. On the north the barony of Penicuik comprehended the lands of
Newbigging.

810 An account [Ch.\. ^Edinburghshire.

cated to the British St. Kentigern, who was popularly called St. Mungo (g). In
the ancient Taxatio, the church of Penicuik was rated at 20 marks. From the
r2th century to the Reformation it continued an independent parsonage, the
advowson of which belonged to the lord of the manor (/i). In Bagimont's Roll,
as it stood under James V., the rectory of Penicuik was taxed at £8 (i). In the
Scoto-Saxon period, the manor of Penicuik was possessed by a family, who
assumed their surname from the place, and were the patrons of the church (A).
This ancient family continued patrons of the church of Penicuik till the 17th
century (/). At that unhappy period, the barony and patronage of Penicuik
were purchased from the old family by John Clerk, a son of William Clerk, a
merchant of Montrose, who had acquired a fortune in France by commerce (m).
The church of Penicuik was built in 1771. It is a handsome building, with
a portico, supported by four Doric pillars. The portico is surmounted by a
stone cross ; and on the front of the portico is cut the word Bethel, in Hebrew
characters. The parishioners were not pleased with that mystical finery, saith

(g) The parisli church of Penicuik bore the name of St. Kentigern as late as 1733, and there is
near it a spring, which was called St. Mango's Well, and which is now enclosed in the minister's garden,
free from superstitious use or zealous abuse. Stat. Acco., x., 419. The parish church of Locherwert,
in Mid-Lothian, was also dedicated to St. Kentigern, a coincidence which carries the mind back to
British times.

(/i) lu 1296, Walter Edgar, the parson of Penicuik, swore fealty to Edward I., who therefore
gave him a precept to the sheriff of Edinburghshire for the restoration of his rights. Eot.
Scotite, 24.

(i) That rectory was also comprehended in the archbishop's Tax Roll, 1 547.

(i-) In 1296, Hugh de Penicok of Edinburghshire swore fealty to Edward I. Prynne, iii., 654.
Margaret, the widow of the late Nigel de Penicok, submitted to Edward, and obtained livery of
her lands. lb., G60 ; Eot. Scoti«, 25. On the 15th of March 1306, Sir Hugh de Penicok again
sworeg fealty to Edward, aud obtained another protection for his lands. Eym., ii., 1015. In
January 1507-8, John Penycuik, apparent heir of Sir John Penycuik of the same, obtained a
charter from James IV., on the resignation of his father, of the lands of Penycuik, with the
pertinents and the patronage of the church, rendering to the king yearly, •' tres flatus in cornu
flatus super communem moram de Edinburg, olim forestarii de Drumselch nuncupat ad vena-
tionem regis capitalem super dictam moram nomine albae flrmse si petatur tantum.'' Eegist. Ja. IV.,
lib, xiv., c. 442.

(I) In 1603, Alexander Penycok was served heir to his brother Andrew Penycok of the same, in the
barony of Penycok, with the right of patronage of the church. Inquisit. Speciales, iii., 36. At a
century afterward there remained, in those countries, Penicuik, a physician, aud Penicuik, a poet, who
both distinguished themselves In their several faculties.

(in) The Clerks of Penicnik obtained a baronetcy in 1679. Dougl. Baron., 422.

Sect. Vni.—Its Eeclesiastkal Histon/.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 811

the minister ; suspecting something mysterious in this Hebrew, and dreading
some superstition in the cross (m). [In 1888 there were 1476 communicants in
the Parish Church ; stipend, £200. A Free Church has 409 members ; and
a U.P. has 341 members. There are also Episcopal and Roman Catholic
churches here.]

Mount-Lothian parish lay on the south border of Mid-Lothian, and on the
western side of the upper branch of the Sonth-Esk. The church stood, at a
hamlet, which still retains the name, under the vulgar form of Mount-Louden («.).
As the country was thinly peopled, the church was but of little value, and
in the ancient Taxatio, it is rated at 12 marks. The church of old was granted
to the monks of Holyrood, though by whom cannot now be known. In 1240,
indeed, Bishop David confirmed to those monks the church of Mount-Lothian,
which they had for some years enjoyed (o). It contintxed to belong to the same
monks, till the Reformation swept away such connections ; and the cure was,
meantime, served by a vicar. In 1633, the church of Mount-Lothian, with
all its rights, and revenues, were transferred to the episcopate of Edinburgh,
and this establishment being set aside, in 1638, the pai'ish of Mount-Lothian
was afterward annexed to the adjoining district of Penicuik. Thus, owing to
this union, did Penicuik gain as much on the east as it had lost on the north-
west by the establishment, in 1616, of the parish of Glencorse.

Temple parish comprehends the ancient parish of Clerkington, and the
chapelries of Morthwait [Moorfoot] and Balantrodach. During the 12th century,
the name of Clerkington, in Mid-Lothian, as well as Clerkington, in East-Lothian,
was written Clerchetun, which is obviously the Anglo-Saxon Clerc, Clerce, Cleric,
a clerk, a churchman, with the annex tun, a habitation. As the district of
Clerkington was of old but thinly peopled, its church was of very small value,
and in the ancient Taxatio, it is only rated at 8 mai'ks. The patronage of
this church belonged to the lord of the manor, during the Scoto-Saxon period,
though it seems to have been as obscure, as the rectory was meagre. They
were probably both forfeited, during the succession war. David 11. granted
the manor of Clerkington to Walter Bisset ; and he transferred the church,
with its tithes, and pertinents, to the monks of Newbotle ; granting them, at
the same time, an annual rent of five marks, from the manor (p). The monks

(m) Stat. Acco., x. 423.

()j) The ruin of the church may still be seen at this hamlet. The name, in the chartulary, is
" Monte Laodoniae ; " and in the ancient Taxatio there is the Ecclesia de Monte- Laudonie. A part of
the lands of Mount-Lothian was granted to the monks of Newbotle in the 12th century, and this grant
was confirmed to them by William the Lion. Chart. Newbotle, 176. And from those circumstances
the place has been sometimes culled Monk-Loivden. (o) Regist. St. Andrews, 33.

(p) Roberts. Index, 30 ; Chart. Newbotle, 7. In 1369 Walter Bisset resigned the manor of

812 An ACCOUNT [Ch.\.— Edinburghshire.

enjoyed the parsonage, while the cure was served by a vicar, and this regimen
continued till the Reformation annulled it. At that event, the patronage of the
church, with the annual rent of five marks from the mill of Clerkingtou, were
enjoyed, by Mark Ker, the commendator of Newbotle, who transmitted the
whole to his descendants ; and acquiring the temporal estate, they changed
the name of Clerkington to Xew-Ancrum. The chapelry of Moorfoot com-
prehended the lands of Moorfoot, and the forest of Gledewys, being the upper
half of the valley of Gladehouse water. The village of Moorfoot stands on the
western side of the stream, below the Moorfoot hills, and three miles above
Clerkington. This corrupted name is plainly derived from the Anglo-Saxon
Mor, a moor or heath, and Thu'ctit, signifying a spot, cleared from brush-
wood, and inclosed ; and a plain piece of land freed from bushes and
inclosed is still in Yorkshire called a thwait {q). As the Pentland hills derived
their name from Pentland parish so the Moorfoot hills derived their name,
in the same manner, from the parish of Morthwait, which has been corrupted
into Moorfoot. The lands of Moorfoot were granted by David I. to the
monks of Newbotle (r), and they obtained from Alexander II. the forest of
Gladeivys, upon the Gladewj'^s water (s). After the grant of David I., the
monks established at Moorfoot a chapel, which served their men, and the
abbot enjoyed the patronage of it till the Reformation. After that great
change, the commendator coming in his place, enjoyed his rights, till the
extensive estates of the abbey were converted into a temporal lordship, which
descended to the heirs of the commendator, Earls of Ancrum, and Marquises
of Lothian. The chapelry and manor of Balantrodach, lay at the foot of the
Gladehouse water, on the western side of the South-Esk. The Gaelic word,
Bal-an-trodach, literally signifies the dwelling of the turbulent person ; as
Bal-an-treadach , would equally' denote the habitation of herds, or flocks. This

Clerkington to Archibald de Douglas, knight, who obtained from David II. a charter of confirmation
in 1369. Eegist. David II., 2.30. During the reign of Robert III., Archibald, Earl of Angus, sold
the barony of Cleikington to Adam Forrester of Corstorphine, who acquired, from Robert, a charter of
confirmation ; and he also obtained from him a release of the castle wards, issuing from this barony to
the king. Roberts. Index, 14fl-r)0.

{(]) Thoresbj''s Leeds, 223. This word appears in a number of places in Westmorland and in
Cumberland, and also in Dumfries-shire, where it has been corrupted into what and that : and Murray-
thw:iit in this shire was originally the same as Morthwait, but corrupted into More-thwait, and Mory-
thwait, and Murray-thwait, from the name of the proprietor.

(r) Chart. Newbot., 27.

(.e) lb., 127. In 1239 he erected the whole territory of Morthwait and Gladewys into a free forest,
in favour of the monks of Newbotle. lb., 128.

Sect. VIII.— /te Ecclesiastical History.'] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 813

manor was granted by David I. to the knights of the Temple, who, as we have
seen, formed their principal seat in Scotland at Balantrodach, and who
naturally built here a chapel for themselves and people. On the suppression
of those knights in 1312, their establishment at Balantrodach, with the manor
and chapel, passed to the knights of St. John, who enjoyed the whole, till the
Reformation exploded such establishments. As interest mingled much in that
reform, the estate of the knights was converted into a temporal lordship for
Sir James Sandilands, the preceptor, who was created Lord Torphichen (t).
After the Reformation, the parish of Clerkington, and the chapelries of
Moorfoot and Balantrodach, were united into one parish, with the Templars
chapel for the church ; and from it the united parish obtained the name of
Temple {ii). The patronage of this parish was divided into three shares,
in conformity of the three ancient establishments ; and each of the three patrons
was to enjoy the right by turns. The third share of Lord Torphichen was
acquired, with the barony of Balantrodach, by Dundas of Arniston, to which
Temple is adjacent. The two shares which belonged to the Earls of Ancrum,
were acquired in the last century, with the manor of Clerkington, by Hepburn,
who restored the ancient name of Clerkington ; and whose descendants worthily
enjoy Clerkington, with two-thirds of the patronage of Temple church, to the
present times. [The present Parish Church, erected 1832, has 219 communi-
cants ; stipend, £218. A Free Church has 53 members.]

Carrington is the ancient name of the parish, which is sometimes called
Primrose. In ancient documents, the old name was variously written Kerin-
toun and Cairntoun, and was popularly called Cairnton ; and we may pretty
certainly conclude that the name was derived from some cairn which existed
here, when the Saxons settled their tim. The same name has been given to

(t) In December 1618, James, Lord Torpicben, was served heir to his father, in the barony of
Balantrodach, within the barony of Torpichen. Inquisit. Speciales, vii., 108.

(u) After the establishment of the knights of the Temple at Balantrodach, the place became known
by the name of Temple. The old name predominated, however, till the reign of James VT. In July
1616, James Maleson was served heir to his mother, in the husband-land of Outherstoun, within the
barony of Balantredo, alias Teinpil. Inquisit. Speciales, iii. 212. The Gaelic name has given way to
Temple. After the parliament had attainted Liddel of Halkerston, in 1484, for his treasons, his lands
of Halkerston, which adjoined to Balantrodach, were given by James III. to Sir William Knolls, the
preceptor of Torpichen, who procured an act of parliament for suppi-essing the name of Halk-erstnn,
and substituting in its place Temple ; and he obtained another act, ordaining the barony of Balantro-
dach and the house of Halkerston to be called in future the barony and castle of St. John. Pari. Rec,
307-71. Yet the people retain the old names, and the parliament conformed in their practice, to the
popular voice. lb., 454-5.

4 5K

814 An ACCOUNT ICh. Y.— Edinburghshire.

several other places in Scotland, from the existence of such a cairn (x). The
church of Carrington, and its tithes and pertinents, were granted by David I.
to the monks of Scone ; and his grant was confirmed by William the Lion,
and Robert I. (y), and also by the popes, Alexander and Honorius (z).
This church was rated only at 18 marks in the ancient Taxatio. After all
those confirmations of kings and popes, the monks seem not to have enjoyed
the church of Carrington till the Reformation. Patrick Hume, who is celebrated
for his science, and was archdeacon of Teviotdale, was also rector of Carrington,
in 1464 (a). At this time the cure was served by a vicar ; and an endow-
ment of a perpetual vicarage appears to have continued, till the Reformation
put an end to such establishments. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under
James V., the vicarage of Carrington was taxed at £5 8s. 6d. (6). At the
Reformation, Carrington was an independent rectory, which did not belong to
any monastery (c). The lord of the manor of Carrington, during the Scoto-
Saxon period, cannot now be ascertained. The celebrated warrior, Sir Alex-
ander Ramsay of Dalhousie, appears to have acquired it from David II. In
this family, which did many services to the state, it remained three hundred
years. In 1633, William Lord Ramsay was created Earl of Dalhousie and
Lord Carrington ; but during the subsequent distractions, he found it necessary
to sell this barony, with the pati'onage of the church of Carrington, to Sir
Archibald Primrose, the clerk of the privy council ; and when he was made
a senator of the Collecje of Justice, he assumed the title of Lord Carrinofton.
James, the first Viscount of Primrose, upon his creation in 1703, changed the
name of this district from Carrington to Primrose ; but this new name has been
confined to writings, while the old one, by its common pronunciation of
Cairnton, continues to be used in colloquial intercourse {d). [The parish church
has 182 communicants.]

CoCKPEN parish derived its British name from the site of the church, Cock-pen
signifying, in that descriptive speech, the red summit ; and the kirk-town

{x) The Gaelic name for a tumulus is cairn, which is very frequent in the topography of North-
Britain. There are three Caim-towns in Forfarshire, two in Kincardineshire, one in Aberdeen, and one
in Banffshire.

(y) Chart, of Scone.

(z) Id. Honorius, indeed, declared that the monks should enjoy the church and its revenues to
their proper use. Id.

(a) Chart. Newbotle.

(b) Carrington appears as a rector// in the archbishop's Tax Boll of 1.547.

(<Z) The present church was built in 1711, and the manse in 1756.

Sect. YIIL— Its Ecclesiastical History.^ OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 815

stands on the top of a height upon the east bank of the South-Esk, which
height, whenever the surface is broken, exhibits a red colour. There is, more-
over, very near the church, a place called Red-heugli, which is synonymous
with Coekpen, a red height. The parish of Cockpen, which lies along the river
South-Esk, between Newbotle and Carrington, has consisted from the 12th
century to the present of the barony of Dalhousie, a coiTuption of DalwoJsie,
which comprehended the lands of Cockpen, and indeed the whole parish (e).
The church was of middling value, and in the ancient Taxatio it is rated at
only 20 marks. During the Scoto-Saxon period Cockpen was a rectory, the
patronage of which belonged to the Ramsays of Dalwolsie, one of the oldest
and most respectable families ot Mid-Lothian. In 1296, Malcolm de Ramsay,
the parson of Cockpen, swore fealty to Edward I., who commanded the sheriff
of Edinburgh to restore him to his rights ( /). The church of Cockpen seems
to have afterward been granted to some religious establishment, who enjoyed
it till the Reformation broke asunder snch connections ((/). The church of
Cockpen does not appear in Bagimont's Roll, nor is it in the archbishop's Tax
Roll of 1547, as the church belonged to Cistercian monks. After the Re-
formation the patronage of the church returned to the Earls of Dalhousie, with
whom it still continues. [The Parish Church, erected in 1820, has 356 communi-
cants ; stipend, £347. A Free Church at Bonnyrigg has 381 members.]

Newbattle parish consists of the ancient parish of Maisterton and the Abbey
parish of Newbattle. Maisterton derives its name from the Anglo-Saxon
Maester-tun, signifying the habitation of the master (h). The parish of
Maisterton adjoined Cockpen on the west, and on the north, east, and
south it was surrounded by the Abbey parish of Newbattle. As it was
small, its church was of little value. In the ancient Taxatio the church
of Maisterton is rated at only four marks. During the Scoto-Saxon period

(e) Chart. Newbotle; Roberts. Index, 150 ; Inquisit. Speoiales, iv., 299.

(/) Kot. Scotise, 25. The parson was probably a younger son of this family, who were the patrons.
Robert de Ramsay was at the same time parson of the church of Foulden, in Berwickshire, whereof
the Ramsays were also patrons, as well as the proprietors of the barony.

(g) The lands of Cockpen were certainly given by the^Ramsays of Dalhousie to the monks of New-
battle. After the Reformation, the lands of Cockpen were granted, with the other estates of
Newbattle abbey, to Mark Ker, Lord Newbattle. In May 1609, his son, Robert, the second Earl of
Lothian, was served heir to him in the lands and collieries of Cockpen, within the barony of
Dalhousie. Inquisit. Speoiales, iv. 299. These lands were afterward sold to Cockburn of Cockpen,
and about twenty years ago the same lands were, by purchase, re-annexed to the barony of
Dalhousie.

(A) There is in Fife a place named Masterton, which was granted by Malcolm IV. to the monks of
Dunfermline.

816 AnAC COUNT [Ch. \ .—Edinburghshire.

the patronage of this church belonged to the lord of the manor. Towards the
conclusion of the 13th century, this manor belonged to Robert de Rossine,
knight, and upon his death it descended to his three daughters. Before the
year 1300, Mariot married Neil Carrick, and Ada married Gilbert de
Ay ton ; but the name of the third parcener does not appear. In April 1320,
Mariot and Ada, with the consent of their husbands, resigned to the monks of
Newbotle their two third parts of their manor and the patronage of the church ;
and their heirs severally ratified those resignations. This transfer was per-
formed in the church of Liston, upon Friday after St. Ambrose day, 1320 {i),
and the same transfer was confirmed by Robert I. in May 1320 {k). In
1350, the monks obtained from Bishop Landels a confirmation of the church
of Maisterton, with all its rights and pertinents, to their 'proper use (l). Such
were the securities which the monks cast above their property, though without
absolute success. They acquired, first, a solemn transfer of the heirs and their
heirs ; they next obtained tlie king's confirmation ; and they finally gained the
assent of the diocesan. They appear to have also acquired the other third of
the lands of Maisterton and entirety of the church, which they retained till the
Reformation. The abbey church of Newbattle arose out of the establishment
of the monastery, which we have seen founded in 1140. The manor of New-
battle, which David I. granted to the monks, and various other lands which they
acquired in that vicinity, were attached to the church, and continued with it
till the Reformation disconnected all. The lands which formed the Abbey
parish lay chiefly on the east and south-east of the monastery, and the parish
extended eastward to Fordel and southwai-d to the Newbyres, where they pos-
sessed a grange, as the name implies (m). After the Reformation, the small
parish of Maisterton was united to the Abbey parish, in the western bosom of
which it lay, and the abbey church now became the parish church. The
patronage of the united church, the manor of Newbattle, the lands of Maister-
ton, and other property, were possessed by Mark Ker, the commendator of the
abbej (n). His descendant, the Marquis of Lothian, enjoys the patronage of
the church, with the site of the abbey (o). [The Parish Churcli has 670
communicants ; stipend. £364. A Free Church has 166 members.]

(!) Chart. Newbotle, 59, 60-3. (k) Regist. Eobeit I., Rot., c. 70.

(Z) Chart. Newbotle, 8. (m) Chart. Newbotle.

(n) He died in 1584. His son, Mark the second, obtained from the facility of James IV., the whole
estates of the monks of Newbotle to be erected into a barony in 1587, a lordship in 1591, and an earl-
dom in 1606 ; and he died in 1609. Inquisit. Speciales, iv., 299.

(o) A new church was built in 1727, at the village of Newbotle, which becomes less populous, as
the proprietor enlarges his pleasure ground, saith the minister. Stat. Acco., x. 214.

Sect. YLll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histonj.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 817

The name of the parish of Cranston, in the charters of the 12th century, was
written Cranestun, the Anglo-Saxon Cranestun, signifying the crane's district
or resort, and the river Tyne, where it ghdes past Cranston, is even now
frequented by cranes, who find shelter in the woods and fish in the water (a).
Several places in North and South-Britain have derived their appropriate
appellations from similar circumstances (6). The district of Cranston was in
the 1 2th century divided into two manors, Upper-Cranston and Nether-
Cranston, which were afterward distinguished as New-Cranston and Cran-
ston-Ridel. Early in William's reign, Upper-Cranston was possessed by Elfric
de Cranestun, who derived his local surname from the name of the manor.
His descendants, even down to the reign of Charles II., remained proprietors
of the manor, which William the third Lord Cranston sold to Sir John
Fletcher, the king's advocate (c). The church stood at Nether-Cranston,
which was the largest of the two manors. This district was granted by Earl
Henry to Hugh Ridel, and from him the district obtained the name of
Cranston-Ridel, which distinguished it till recent times. Hugh Ridel granted
to the monks of Kelso the church of Cranston, with its tithes and other per-
tinents, for the soul of David I., and for that of Earl Henry, his lord {d).
This grant was confirmed by Richard, the son of Hugh, by William the Lion,
and by the bishops of St. Andrews, Hugh and Roger [e). The same monks
acquired from the Ridels the lands of Preston or Pi-estoun, for which they
obtained successive charters of confirmation (/). The church of Cranston was
early of great value, and in the ancieiit Taxatio it was rated at 60 marks.
It continued with the monks till 1317 ; and they enjoyed during that long
period the i-evenues of the rectory, while the vicar served the cure and
received the vicarage-tithes. Adam de Malcarvestun was vicar of Cranston
during the reign of William the Lion {g). In 1296, Hugh, the vicar of
Cranston, swore fealty to Edward I. (6). The monks valued Cranston church
/

(a) Sir John Dalrymple's MS. Description.

(i) Such as Crans-by, Cranshill, Cransford, Cranshaw, Cran-ley, Cran-fleld.

(e) Chart. Kelso, 13, 62-3, 315,

(/) lb., 242-3, 316. This is the estate of Preston, and the mansion-house of Prestonhall lies on
the east of Cranston.

(rj) Chart. Kelso, 316. In the same record there is a charter of David, the diocesan, dated on
St. Andrew's day. 1240, respecting the vicarage-tithes of the churches of Cranstoun and
Langton.

(A) Prynne, iii., 660.

818 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y —Edinburghshire.

at the accustomed amount of £10 yearly {i). From the date of that exchange
till the Reformation, the bishops of St. Andrews enjoyed the revenues of the
rectory while the cure was served by a vicai". In Baglmont's Roll, as it stood
under James V., the vicarage of Cranston was taxed at £2 13s. 4d. The
vicarage also appears in the bishop's Tax Roll, 1547. Meantime, the barony
of Cranston-Riddel continued with the Riddels till the reign of David II., when
it passed successively, by various transmissions, through the Murrays to the
Macgills, who acquired the chui-ch of Cranston (k). Sir James Macgill, in
1651, was created Viscount Oxenford and Lord Macgill of Cousland, who
dying in 1663, left the whole estates and patronage to his son Robert, who
died -without male issue, in 1706. By another series of heirs, those estates
and patronages came to Lady Dalrymple-Hamilton-Macgill, the spouse of Sir
John Dalrymple, baronet. There was of old a chapel at Cranston, which
served the lord and the tenants of the manor. In the 12th century, the
advowson of this chapel was granted to the monks of Dunfermline, and the
grant was confirmed by the diocesan. Bishop Richard, soon after 1163 (/).
This chapel the monks probably retained, tUl the Reformation dissolved such
connections. The manor and chapelry of Cousland were now annexed to
the parish of Cranston. The chapel stood on the south side of the village of
Cousland, where its remains may still be ti'aced, with its almost forgotten
cemetery, and it was probably dedicated to St. Bartholomew, as some lands
near it retain the name of Bartholomew's Firlot (m). [The Parish Church has
338 communicants, stipend, £334. A U.P. Church at Ford has 174 members.]
The name of Ceichton parish, in the records of the 12th and 13th centuries,
is written Crechtun, and Creichtoun, and in the charter of David I., it appears
in the form of Crectun. There is nothing in the Saxon speech that would make
a rational prefix to the Anglo-Saxon tun, except we can suppose that some
man, called Crec, Creich, or Crech, may have settled here, whereof there is
not any intimation in record or in bistory. In the British speech, Crech-ton,
and Crych-ton, signify the rough or rugged surface ; and sufficiently describe

(i) Chart. Kelso, 31. In 1317, William de Alncrom, the abbot of Kelso, gave to Bishop Lam-
berton the church of Cranston, with all its tithes and pertinents, in exchange for Naythanthirn
and the chapel of Newton ; and in consideration of the superior value of the church of Cranston,
the bishop obliged himself to pay the abbot 25 marks sterling duiing 10 years. Chart. Kelso,
309-10.

(^•) Koberts. Index, 45-124 ; Eolls of David 11., Rob. 11., and of Albany. Inquisit. Speciales,
viii. 146.

(/) Chart. Dunferm.; Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., 45.

(m) Stat. Acco., ix. 281,

Sect. YllL— If. « Krdesia.-^tical Hisfor>j.;\ OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 819

the counti-y about Crichton. This name might also be derived from the British
Crech, signifying, without addition, rough or rugged ; and the Saxon tun may
have been applied to the previous name of the place by some Saxon settler,
whose tun it became. The castle of Crichton stands on a rock, projecting over
a deep glen, through which runs the Tyne. The church and manse stand a
little below, on the eastern bank of the same glen, and various other places
bearing the name of Crichton are included in the ancient manor and parish of
Crichton, which seem to have been co-extensive. In the ancient Taxatio, the
church was rated at 30 marks. From the epoch of record to the era of the
erection of the collegiate church, the parish was a rectory (n), and the
patronage belonged to the lords of the manor, who were the Ci'ichtons ; and
from the early part of the reign of David I. till 1484, they continued pro-
prietors of this ancient domain. Of those barons was Sir William Crichton,
the ablest man of his time, who was master of the household to James I.,
chancellor to James II., and died in 1454. It was he who cast the church of
Crichton into a collegiate form, and he and his heirs were the patrons both
of the college and the vicai'age. The lordship of Crichton, and those patron-
ages, were forfeited by William, the third lord, the chancellor's grandson, in
1484 (o). The forfeitures of Crichton were now given by James III. to his
favourite. Sir John Ramsay, who was created Lord Bothwell ; and was in his
turn forfeited by the parliament of October 1488 {p). These forfeitures were
immediately, by James IV., given to Patrick Loi^d Hailes,who obtained the ratifica-
tion of the same parliament (q), and he was instantly created Earl of Bothwell
and Lord Hailes and Crichton. The barony of Crichton, and the patronages of
the college and vicarage, remained with his posterity almost eighty years, and
were at length forfeited by his great-grandson, James Earl of Bothwell, in
December 1567. The barony and the patronages, as they were conferred by
the folly of James VI. on Francis, the nephew of the expatriated Bothwell, and
as he too committed a thousand treasons, were by him forfeited in 1594. The
barony of Crichton and the patronages, as its pertinents, were soon after
granted to Sir VV alter Scott of Branxholm (r). Sir Walter was created Lord
Buccleuch in 1606, and died in 1611, leaving Walter, his son, to inherit

(?») In May 1338, William de Creiohton, the rector of the church of Crichton, and heir of William
de Creichton, burgess of Berwick, granted to the monks of Newbattle 16 oxgates and eight acres of
arable land, in the tenement of New-Cranston. Chart. Newbotle, 227.

(o) He was convicted by parliament of being concerned in the treasons of the Duke of Albany.
Pari. Eec, 309.

{p) lb., 322. (7) lb., 336 (r) MS. Col. of Charters.

820 An account [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

his great estates. He was, in IGiy, elevated to the yet higher title of Earl of
Buccleuch, but died in 1633, leaving, with other estates, the barony of
Crichton to his son Francis (s). After the Reformation, the church-lands
of Crichton and the parsonage-tithes, which belonged of old to the rectory of
Crichton, were acquired by Sir Gideon Murray, the last provost of the collegiate
church, who obtained a grant, converting those collegiate lands into temporal
estates. Sir Gideon was treasurer-depute to James VI., and died in 1621,
leaving those estates to his son, Patrick, who was created Lord Elibank in
1643, and died in 1650 (t). The present church is an ancient building, in the
form of a cross ; the western end whereof was left unfinished, a sad monument
of the wretched times wherein the founder flourished. [In 1888 there were
276 communicants; stipend, £340.]

BoRTHWiCK parish was anciently called Locherworth, a singular name, of
mixed formation, which continued till the reign of James VI. It appears
under its genuine form in the records of the 12th and 13th centuries. In the
corrupted pronunciation of the country people, it is vulgarly called Loch-
uurret (ti). The manor of Locherworth lies upon the Gore water, which is
foi'med of two streams, that are now called the burns of North and South
Middleton. The church stands on the bank of the last, a short distance above
its junction with the Gore. Below the church, on the west bank of the Gore,
at the confluence of the two streams, stands the castle of Borthwick, which was
built on the ancient site of Locherworth moat. On the east from this position,
at some distance, stood the hamlet of Little-Locherworth, where there is still

(s) Francis, Earl of Buccleuch, on the 27th February 1634, was served heir to his father in the
baronies of Hailes and Crichton, with the advowsons of the provostry of Crichton, and its
prebends, and chaplainries, and other lands, witliin the lordship of Hailes. Inquisit. Speciales,
xii., 184. How long the descendants of Earl Francis retained possession of Crichton cannot now
be told. In 1614, Francis, the eldest son of the last Earl of Bothwell, obtained, by another act
of King James's folly, a grant of rehabilitation, which was confirmed by the parliament of 1633,
and which freed him from the effects of his father's forfeiture. He now claimed the estates of bis
fathei', including Liddesdale, Hailes, and Crichton, the property of the Earls of Buccleuch. This
claim was submitted, by the contending parties, to the award of Charles I., who pronounced a decree,
which was confirmed by the parliament of 164.0. Unprinted Act, No. 153. Liddesdale certainly
remained with the Earl of Buccleuch ; but Hailes and Crichton were probably given up under this
ward.

(t) In May 1650, Patrick, Lord Elibank, was served heir to his father Patrick, in the church-lands
of the collegiate church of Crichton with the tithes, in the lordship of Crichton. Inquisit, Speciales,
XX. 202. Sir John Calleuder of Crichton now enjoys that lordship,

(m) It is curious to observe that the essential part of the name is preserved entire under " Locher-
wer," in the ancient Taxatio, the prefix Locker being the real name of the stream. The annex wer is
the coiTuption of weortb.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOBTH-BRITAIN. 821

a village that bears the old name in the corrupted form of Lochivharret. The
name of Locher worth was originally formed by adding the Saxon ivorth,
weorth, signifying a farm-stead, a hamlet, to Locher, the Celtic appellation of
the rivulet on which the worth, or village, was formed. In the same manner
were composed the names of Pol-worth in the Merse, Jed-worth on the Jed
water, and the English Tam-worth on the Tame. The name of the riveret is
derived from the British Llwcher, or Lloucher, the Scottish form whereof is
Locher, signifying a stream which forms pools. There are several streams of
this name, as they have such a quality both in North and South-Britain ; and
it is curious to observe that such streams in Scotland have their names in the
Scottish form of Locher (x), while those in Wales have the British name of
Lloucher (y). Such, then, is the analogy of the British and Scoto-Irish
languages, and such are the traces of the ancient residents on the Gore
water (2). Locherworth church was consecrated to St. Kentigern. Robert,
the bishop of St. Andrews, about the year 1150, conceded to Bishop Herbert of
Glasgow the church of Locherworth in Lothian, with the consent of David I.,
and Earl Henry, his son, in the presence of bishops, abbots, barons, and other
important persons (a). The church of Locherworth was probably transferred
with its patronage and pertinents. Yet was the church of Locherworth conveyed
by David I. to the monks of Scone, and confirmed by his successors and
the pope (b). The monks of Scone seem not, however, to have enjoyed this
church till the demise of Alexander III. It was then an independent i-ectory,
and enjoyed by its appropriate parson (c). The church of Locherworth was

(x) Such as the Locher water, in Dumfries-shire ; the Locher rivulet, in Renfrewshire ; and another
of the same name in Lanarkshire.

((/) As the Lloucher, in the shires of Glamorgan and Caermarthen.

{z) David I. granted a piece of land to the church of St. Kentigern, at Locherworth, for the accom-
modation of the parson. David de Lyn, the lord of the manor, granted to the same church an acre
and a perticate, or fourth of land, "juxta aquam currentem sub pomerio ejusdem ecclesice,'' in
exchange for the piece of land which David pave for his messuage, where his house stood. This
transaction was confirmed by the diocesan. Chart. Scone, 43.

{a) Chart. Glasgow, .57. In the bulls of Alexander III. and Lucius, Locherwart, among other
churches, is confirmed to the bishop of Glasgow. In a bull of Urban, 1186, confirming some churches,
Locherworth is omitted. Chart. Glasg., 81-91-103-4.

(b) Chart. Scone, 21 ; and there is herein a precept of William the Lion respecting the tithes of
this parish. lb., 39.

(c) In 1296, Patrick de Gurleye, the parson of Locherworth, swore fealty to Edward I., and
received restitution of his rights, Prynne, iii. ; Rot. Scotise, 25.

4 5 L

822 A N A C C 0 U N T Oh. Y.—Edinburghs/iire.

early of some value. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 40 marks. In
1449, Peter Crichton, the parson of Locherworth, consented to the dissolution
of his rectory, and to the assignment of many of the revenues to the collegiate
church of Crichton (d). During the 12th century, the manor of Locherworth
belonged to the family of Lyne, who enjoyed it till the reign of Alexander II.,
when it went with Margaret de Lyne, a co-heiress, to Sir John de Hay (e).
The Hays retained possession of the whole manor of Locherworth till the reign
of James I. Sir William Hay, having changed his residence from Locher-
worth to Yester, sold the gi-eater part of his ancient manor, with the mansion,
to Sir William de Borthwick, retaining Little-Locherworth with its pertinents.
Sir William now resolved to build a castle on the ancient site of Locherworth {J")
He accordingly built a castellated house, which he called Borthwick castle,
from the family name which his progenitors had assumed from Borthwick in
Selkirkshire (g). The founder of that house was called Lord Borthwick in
1433, and the castle of Borthwick became now the seat of his barony. Yet
Locherworth continued to be long used in the corrupted form of Lochwarret,
which in formal proceedings was coupled with the adventitious name of Borth-
wick (h). The name of Borthwick was now applied to the chv;rch and parish
till the Reformation. In 1596, James VI. withdrew from the collegiate church
of Crichton those prebends with their revenues, and restored them to the
parsonage of Borthwick, whence they had been taken. The king's charter for

(d) MS. Col. of Charters ; Sir Lewis Stewart's CoL, No. 2 ; and the foundation charter in the Eeg.
of St. Andrews.

(e) Under William the Lion, David de Lyne, the son of Robert, granted a peatery in Locherworth
to the monks of Newbotle. Chart. Newbot., 23. Robert, the son of David, confirmed that grant ;
and Maister Stephen, the parson of Locherworth, was a witness. lb., 24.

(/) In 1430, James I. granted Sir William Borthwick a licence " ad construendum areem in illo
loco, que vulgariter dicitur le mote de Locker warret."

(g) In 1410, William de Borthwick obtained a charter from the regent Albany of Borthwick, and
Thoftcots, in Selkirkshire, on the resignation of Robert Scot. Roberts. Index, 166.

{h) In October 1573, James Borthwick was served heir to his brother, the master of Borthwick, in
the barony of Borthwick, containing the lands of Moat_of Locherword, and the castle of the same,
" castrum de Borthwick inde appellatum.'' luquisit. Speciales, ii., 165. In 1609, it was described in
a similar manner. lb., iv. 229. In September 1643. Robert Hay. advocate, was served heir to
Walter Hay, advocate, his father, •' in the lands of Mote of Lochquharret, et castrum ejusdem, nunc
castrum de Borthwick ; and also the church-lands of Lochquharret, with other lands united, in the
barony of Heriot-mure." lb., xvii. 245.

Sect. VIII.— /te Ecclesiastical History.'] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 823

those ends was confirmed by the parliament of July 1606 {i). The patronage
of this church has been acquired by Dundas of Arniston, who is the principal
proprietor of the parish {h). The old church was built in the form of a cross ;
but it was accidentally burnt, in May 1775. A more commodious church was
built in 1778, and to the credit of the proprietors, saith the minister, is
superior to any other church in the neighbourhood (I). [A new Parish Church
was erected in 1850. Communicants, 408 ; stipend, £306.]

Heriot church stands on the south side of Heriot water, a little distance
northward is Heriot town, and somewhat farther north is Heriot house ; and
there is also Heriot moor, which has become the name of the manor. Heriot
water rises at the west end of the parish, flows eastward through the middle of
this moorish district, and loses itself at length in the Gala. The origin of
the singular name of this parish is uncertain. Heriot, probably, is neither the
original name of the water, nor a descriptive appellation of the place ; but it
certainly originated in some adventitious circumstances, which both history and
tradition have forgotten (m). The church of Heriot was early of considerable
value. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 30 mai-ks. The patronage of the
church appears to have belonged, during the 12th and some part of the 13th
centuries, to the lord of the manor. The manor of Heriot belonged to Roger
de Quincey, the constable of Scotland, who probably derived it from the Lords
of Galloway, who themselves may have enjoyed it from the Morvilles. In the
division of de Quincey 's great estates, among his three daughters, Heriot fell to
Elena, the youngest, who married Alan la Zouche, an English baron. The
liberality of Elena granted to the monks of Newbattle the church of Heryeth,
with the tithes, and its other rights. This grant was confirmed by a bull of

(j) Unprinted Act ; and the king's charter was also confirmed by the diocesan bishop. Stat. Acco.,
xiii. G23.

(k) In October 1612, there was a ratification by Parliament to Sir James Dundas of a burial-place
in the reveatrie of the kirk of Borthwic. Unprinted Act.

(l) Stat. Acco., xiii'. 627.

(«t) Heryeath, in the Anglo-Saxon, signifies deprsedatio, vastatio, an invasion, a spoliation. Somner.
Hergeath would be pronounced Heryeth ; the Saxon fj, in the middle or end of words, being generally
changed to the English ?/ ,• as, waeg, to way ; haeg, to hay ; hag, to ley. Now, Herijeth exactly agrees
with the old and proper spelling of Heryeth. From the Anglo-Saxon Hergeath, we may thus see the
derivation of the old English and Scoto-Saxon verb, to han-y, which is so well known in the border
history of plundering and wasteful inioads ; and some feat of this sort, at this place, gave rise to the
name of this parish, which was of old Hergeth, contrary to the intimation of the learned minister.
Stat. Acco., xvi. 60. Heriot is, indeed, the old English form of the Anglo-Saxon Heregild,
signifying the fine paid to the lord, at the death of a tenant. Heriet [h] is the spelhng in the
ancient Taxatio.

824 A N A U 0 0 U N T [Ch. Y.—E<linburghshire.

Nicholas (n), and both were confirmed by Fraser, the bishop of St. Andrews,
and by his chapter, the prior and canons (o). In 1309, William Blair, the
vicar of Heriot, resigned his vicarage to Laniberton, the bishop of St. An-
drews (p), and the diocesan immediately conferred on the monks of Newbattle
the whole vicarage revenues; and he issued a mandate to the dean of Haddington,
commanding him to put the monks in possession of the vicarage of Heriot (q).
The monks of Newbattle appear to have also acquired the lands of Heriot ; but,
whether from the liberal Elena, or her son, la Zouche, who lost his estates in the
succession war, appears not. It is, however, certain, that both the church and the
lands of Hei'iot belonged to the monks of Newbattle at the Reformation.
The lands and the patronage of the church came now to Mark Ker, the com-
mendator, to whose heirs they descended ()•). The barony of Heriot is now
divided among several proprietors ; but Sir John Dalrymple enjoys the patron-
age of the church. The church was old and insufficient in 1795. The manse
was built in 1704 (s). [In 1835 a new Parish Church was erected. Communi-
cants in 1888, 176; stipend, £217.]

Fala pai'ish is old, but its union with Soutra is modern. The church and
a part of the village of Fala, stand on one of those small conical hiUs, which, in
the south of Scotland, are called laws, from the Anglo-Saxon Hleaiv. Fah,
means a Joe, an enemy ; so Fah-laiu may signify the speckled law, or the
hostile law (t). As the old parish was but thinly inhabited, the church was of
little value. In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at 6 marks. In Bagimont's Roll, as
it stood under James V., the rectory of Fala was taxed £7 13s. 4d., which taxation
evinces that it had increased in value between the 12th and the 16th century (it),

(n) Chart. Newbotle, 270. (o) lb., 66. {p) lb., 67.

(9) lb., 67-8-70. All those transfers were confirmed by the prior and canons, as the dean and
chapter. lb., 69.

(r) In 1609, Robert, the second Earl of Lothian, was served heir to his father Mark, in the hinds of
Heriot and Heriot-Moor. Inquisit. Speciales, iv. 299. Robert. Earl of Lothian, seems to have sold
this property to Walter Hay, to whose son they descended in 1643. lb., svii. 2-45.

(s) Stat. Acco., xvi. 53. Nearly one-half of the parishioners are of the seceders from the
establishment, called Burghers. Id.

(<) It is a curious coincidence that Phala, in the Teutonic, signifies castellum ligneum, as
we know from Schiltei's Glos. in vo. Pal. There are several places in Scotland called Fala,
and Fala-hill, and Fala-knoll : the final la, or rather law, we thus see, plainly represents a knoll, or
hillock.

(«) The rectory of Fawlaw also appears in the archbishop's Tax Roll, 1547. Before the Reforma-
tion, there was a chapel on the southern side of Heriot water, at a place which is now called the Chapel,
and Haltrees Chapel, as it stood on the estate of Haltrees.

Sect. VIII.— /<s Ecclesiastical History.-] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 825

The patronage of the rectory of Fala appears to have continued with the lord of
the manor, from the 12th to the present century. Of old, this manor belonged
to a family, who took its name from the estate. " Dominus Bartholomew de
Falaw," appears in some charters, with Roger de Quincey (a). It afterward
passed to successive proprietors, who cannot be distinctly traced. It came at
length to Thomas Hamilton of Preston, whose sou Thomas enjoyed the estate
of Fala, with the patronage of the church ; and his daughter Elizabeth, the
representative of several families, brought the estates of Fala and Oxenford,
with the patronage of the church of Fala, to her husband. Sir John Dalrymple
of Cousland. About the year 1600, the parish of Soutra in Haddingtonshire,
was annexed to Fala parish in Edinburghshire, and the church of Fala
became the church of the united parish, the patronage being by turns enjoyed
by Sir John Dalrymple, baronet, and the city of Edinburgh, as patrons of the
separate parishes. [The Parish Church has 138 communicants; stipend, £213.
A U.P. Church has 106 members.] This much, then, with regard to the fifteen
parishes in the presbytery of Dalkeith.

Stow parish, in Lauderdale presbytery, was anciently named Wedale, the
vale of woe, from the Anglo-Saxon Wa or Wcb, and Dal, which is usually
softened into Dale (b). The parish of Wedale was formerly of great extent ;
comprehending a tract which is drained by the Gala water, of ten miles long
and four broad, being the south-east corner of Edinburghshire, and compre-
hending also the district that is drained by the Caden water in Selkirkshire,
more than seven miles long and three broad. Wedale appears to have early
enjoyed the privilege of sanctuary, in the same manner as Tyninghame (c). Both

(a) Chart. Soltre.

(b) See Somnei-. In Nennius, ch. 63, it is thus explained : " Wedal, Anglice ; vallis doloiis,
Latine." A fragment of the real cross, which was brought to this vale from the Holy Land by King
Arthur himself, is said to have been preserve!, with great veneration, in the Virgin Mary's church at
Wedale.' Gale, iii. 114 ; and see this legend in Lelaud's Col., iii. 49. While the district and parish
were called Wedale, the kirk-town was called Stow, in Wedale ; and Stoiv is literally the Anglo-
Saxon name for locus. Statin, and is the well-known name of many places in England. John
Harding, Chron., fo. ccxxxvii., when he was instructing the English king how to ruin Scotland, advises
him,

" To send an hoste of footmen in,

At Lammesse nexte, through all Lauderdale,

And Laniermore woodes, and mossis over-rin,

And eke therewith, the Stow of Wedale."
The celebrated seat of the Marquis of Buckingham might fitly, from its pre-eminence, be called the
Stow of Buctcinijhain.

(c) This is mentioned in a charter of Malcolm IV.. granting the same privilege of sanctuary to the
church of Inverleithen. Chart. Kelso, 20. The black priest of Wedale was one of the three persons
who enjoyed the privilege of the law of the clau Macduff. Wyntoun, i. 242.

826 An ACCOUNT [Ch.V.— Edinburghshire.

the territoiy and the church of Wedale belonged of old to the bishops of
St. Andrews, though it is not easy to ascertain from whom, or on what occa-
sion, they were obtained. It was from the bishop's palace here that the kirk-
town acquired the appropriate name of Stow. There was anciently an extensive
forest between Wedale and Lauderdale, in which the lords of the adjoining
manors had common rights ; the inhabitants of Wedale on the west, the
monks of Melrose on the south, and the Earls of Dunbar and the Morvilles
on the east. Among the men of such lords many disputes naturally arose,
and in 1184 a contest between the monks of Meh-ose and the men of Wedale
about the pasturages of this forest was settled by William the Lion and his
barons (d). The bishops of St. Andrews often resided at the Stow of Wedale,
whence they dated many of their charters (e). In 1233, Clement, the elect of
Dunblane, was consecrated by William, the bishop of St. Andrews, at
Wedale {/). The border laws, which were settled in 1249, stipulated that
the presbyter of Wedcde should swear for the king of Scotland and the bishop
of St. Andrews {g). In June 1313, William, bishop of St. Andrews, issued a
precept to his steward in Lothian, directing him to give the monks seisin of
the church of Nenthorn, and the stewart issued his precept to the haillie of
Wedale, commanding him to give the monks seisin of the church (Ji). The
church of Wedale was in early times of great value. In the ancient Taxation
the church of Wedcde, in the deanery of the Merse, is rated at 70 marks. The
bishops of St. Andrews enjoyed it as a ineascd church, and the cure was served
by a vicar who was appointed by them (i). In March 1472, the auditors, in
parliament, heard the complaint of Andrew Pringle, chaplain, and John Spottis-
woode, against William, for spoliation of 4 sacks of wool, 320 lambs, 60 stone

(d) Chart. Mailros. It was settled by a jury of the country, with Morville, the constable, as their
foreman, that the king's forest extended to the way which went to the west part of the church
of 'Mary of Wedale, and is the pasture of the monks of Melrose, as far as the limits of Wedale,
and as far as the rivulet which was called Fasseburn. Id. This settlement was confirmed,
according to the practice, by a charter of William. lb., 89. Among such parties quiet could not
long remain. In 1269, the abbot and monks of Melrose were excommunicated by a council of
the Scotican church, for infringing the peace of Wedale and for assaulting the houses of the
bishop of St. Andrews, and for killing one ecclesiastic and wounding others. Ford., x. 25 ; and Lord
Hailes's Councils. King William issued a precept to the " ministris ecclesise de Wedale, et illis qui
pacem ibidem custodiunt ; '' commanding them not to detain the men of the monks of Kelso. Chart.
Kelso, 407.

(e) Chart. Cambuskeneth. (/) Chron. Mail. (g) Border Laws, 4.

(A) Chart. Mailros, 312-13. The bishops of St. Andrews had a regal jurisdiction over the whole
district of Wedale.

(i) In August 1296, Edward, vicar of the church of Wedale, swore fealty to Edward I., and had in
return restitution of Lis rights. Prynne, iii. 661 ; Eot. Scotise, 25.

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 827

of cheese, and 5 corsepresents of the tithes of the kirk of Stoiv of Wedale,
which pertained to the complainants, under a lease. The lords ordered William
to restore those tithes, to pay 40 shillings as an amercement, and to be
distrained till he obeyed the judgment (k). In 1630, the lands of the territory
of Stow were held of the archbishop of St. Andrews (l). In a roll of the kirks
within the diocese of St. Andrews, in 1683, which was made up by Martin,
there is a Stoiv in the presbytery of Dunfermline (m). After the abolition
of episcopacy, the parish of Stoiv was attached to the presbytery of Lauder.
In addition to his glebe of five acres, the minister of Stow enjoyed the ancient
right of pasturage in Stow common till its division in 1756, when nineteen
acres were allotted to him for his common right. The old kirk of Stow was
repaired in 1780, and a new manse was built for the minister in 1782 (/i).
After the Reformation, the patronage of Stow seems to have returned to the
king. Such, then, are the notices which carry back the inquisitive mind to
the times that are past, when the kings with their nobles were employed
in settling the disputes of herdsmen, and the Scotlcan church found it necessary
to excommunicate an abbot and his monks for murder and sacrilege. [A new
Parish Church of 1876 has 496 communicants ; stipend, £384. A Free Churcb
has 112, and a U.P. Church 197 members]

The present parishes of Mid-Calder and West-Calder, lying within the
presbytery of Linlithgow, were of old comprehended in one parish and barony
of CsAder-Comitis, and this is the only parish of Edinburghshire which is within
the presbytery of Linlithgow, except a part of Kirkliston parish, containing
about five hundred people. West-Calder received this name, as lying westward
of the Calder river, and of Eastern-Calder ; and it was distinguished by the
name of Calder-Comitis as early as the 12th century, from the Earl of Fife,
who held it ; while East-Calder was called Calder-Clere, from Randulph de
Clere, who enjoyed this district, as we Iiave already seen. This extensive
manor of Calder-Comitis was possessed by the Eai'ls of Fife as early as the
reign of Malcolm IV. ; and by them it was enjoyed as low down as the reign
of David II. (o). It now passed to Sir William Douglas of Douglas, who gave it

(k) Pari. Rec, 173-4.

(/) Eeliq. Divi And., 120. In 1543 the archbishop granted to Lord Borthwick and his heirs male,
" that tract of country known by the name of Gala water." Borthwick on the Feud. Dignities of
Scot., 29 ; but he does not quote his authority.

(m) Eeliq. Divi And., .59. (u) Stat. Aeco., vii. 134.

(o) After the assassination of Duncan, the Earl of Fife, in 1288, the custody of his son, with
this manor, was assigned to William Bisset, and this appointment was confirmed by Edward I.
in 1292. Eot. Scotiae. 11. In 1294. Edward, however, took this manor into his own hands,
and gave Bisset a compensation. lb., 20. But in October of the same year he gave to

828 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y .—Edinburghshire.

in free marriage with Eleanor, his sister, to Sir James de Sandilands, in 1349.
This grant was confirmed by Duncan, the Earl of Fife, and by David II. (p).
From that marriage sprung the family of Sandilands, who acquired the estates
of the knights of St. John at the Reformation, with the peerage of Torphichen ;
and who stUl retain the barony of West-Calder, with the advowson of the
church. West-Calder was a rectory of more value than the church of East-
Calder, as the parish was more extensive ; and it was valued in the ancient
Taxatio at 40 marks. The patronage belonged of old to the lord of the manor ;
but it seems to have been granted to the monks of Dunfermline, and was con-
firmed to them by Richard, bishop of St. Andrews {q). Yet did it become
an independent parsonage in the 13th century, though the manner does not
appear. In 1296, Nicholas de Balmyle, the parson of Calder-Comitis, swore
fealty to Edward I., who thereupon commanded the sheriff of Edinbui-ghshire to
restore him to his propei'ty (r). In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V.,
the rectory of Calder-Comitis was taxed at £10 13s. 4d., whence we may infer
its value at that period (s). Before the Reformation, there was a chapel in
the upper part of this extensive district which gave a name to Chapeltown,
about a mile from West-Calder. This chapel remained till the revolutionary
reign of Charles I. (<). John Spottiswoode, the son of William Spottiswoode
of Spottiswoode, who fell at Floddon-field, was presented by the patron to this
church in 1548. In 1560, he was appointed under the new regimen, super-
intendent of the cluirches of Lothian, which he continued to direct durmg
twenty years, though the parishioners complained to the assembly in vain that
they were deprived of their pastor (w) ; and dying in 1585, he was succeeded
by his son, John, at the age of twenty -one, who held it till 1603, when he was
nominated archbishop of Glasgow, and became archbisliop of St. Andrews,
and chancellor of Scotland (^x). In 1637, John, Lord Torphichen, was served
heir to his father in the barony of Calder, and to the patronage of the church [y).

Robert, bishop of Glasgow, the custody of Calder-Comitis, with its pertinents. lb., 21. The
Earl of Fife, while still under age, was killed in the battle of Falkirk in 1298, leaving an
infant son, whom Robert Bruce afterward restored to his rights within the barony of Calder-
Comitis. lb., 16. {j}) Hay's Vindication, 58-9. ((/) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., No. 45.

(»•) Rot. Scotiae, 25.

{s) The rectory of Calder-Comitis appears also in the Tax-Roll of the archbishop, 1547.

{t) Font's map of Lothian. It has since been demolished ; but the proprietor has preserved the
stone foot. Stat. Acco., sviii. 195. («) Keith, 514, 530.

(.1-) This worthy prelate died in 1639, at the eve of a long civil war, aged 74, leaving a history of
the Church of Scotland, which has been castrated, and perhaps interpolated.

{y) Inquis. Speciales, xiv. 174. In 1649, Walter Lord Torpichen was served heir to his brother
John, in the same barony and advowson. lb., xx., 93.

Sect. VUl.—Its Establishment as a Shire.'] OpNOETH-BBITAIN. 829

In 1646, this large parish was divided into two districts, which were named
Mid-Calder and West-Calder. The old church was now appropriated to Mid-
Calder (z) ; while the new church was erected in the upper district, which
had given rise to the kirk-town of West-Calder ; and Lord Torphichen con-
tinued to be the patron of the two parishes till he transferred his advowson of
West-Calder to the Earl of Lauderdale (a). [The Parish Church of Mid-Calder
has 587 communicants; stipend, £246. A U.P. Church has 142 members. The
Parish Church of West-Calder (1880) has 657 communicants; stipend, £209;
and a mission church at Addiewell has 307 communicants. A Free Church has
197 members; and a mission at Addiewell has 76 membei'S. A U.P. Church
has 291 members. There is also a Roman Catholic Church.]

Thus much, then, with regard to the historical notices of the several parishes
in the populous shire of Edinburgh or Mid-Lothian. As a useful supplement,
there is immediately added a Tabular State of the same districts under different
views, and this compi-ehensive document admits of some supplemental ex-
planations. The parish of Soutra, which has been annexed to Fala, lies in
Haddingtonshire, and a considerable part of the parish of Stow is within Sel-
kirkshire (6). On the returns of the population of Edinburgh town in 1801, it
was remarked by those who made the enumerations, that, from conceal-
ments and omissions, the total numbers were somewhat under the real amount
of the whole people, particularly in St. Cuthbert's, over which the suburbs
spread with rapid progress. Those omissions, by subsequent inquiries, are
now supplied. The same observations may be made with regard to the popu-
lation of Dalkeith in 1801. In estimating the income of the minister's
stipends, the value of their glebes were included, but not their manses. The
valuable part of the stipends, which arises from victual, was estimated accord-
ing to a nine years average of the fiar prices of Edinburghshire, ending with
1794, and taking the medium of the best and second sorts of grain (c). For
other districts the more inquisitive reader is referred to the Tabular State which
immediately follows :

(z) Stat. Ac, xiv. 370 («) lb., xviii. 185.

(b) The whole parish of Fala and Soutra contained of people in 1755, 312. in 1791, 372, and in
1801, 354. Their stipends in 1755 were £68 23., and in 1798, £77 13s. The parish of Stow con-
tained of people in 1755, 1,294, in 1791, 1,756, and in 1801, 1,876. The minister's stipend of Stow
in 1755 was £78 3s. Id., and in 1798. £135 4s. 7d.

(c) The wheat was valued at 21s. S^d. per boll; the barley at 16s. 4|d.; the oats at 12s. lO^d.;
and the oat-meal at 15s. Id. per boll. In Edinburghshire the boll of wheat is 4 bushels, 10 pints,
6-7 cubic inches English standard measure; the boll of barley and oats is 6 bushels, 3 pints, 25-5
cubic inches English standard measure. The stipends of the ministers of Canongate, Corstorphine,
Liberton, Colinton, Currie, Kirknewton, Dalkeith, Inveresk, and Heriot parishes, comprehend the
augmentations which were made to them before the year 1798. A process was depending for
augmenting the minister of Stow's stipend. In March 1804, the stipends of the 16 ministers of Edin-
burgh were raised to £260 each a-year, with a prospective eye to £300 each.

4 5 M

830

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Sect l— Its Name.] Of N OETH - BEI T A IN . 831

CHAP. VI.
Of Linlithgowshire.

§ I. Of its Name.'] The appellation of this shii-e is plainly derived from
the name of the county-town, which itself obtained its descriptive title from
the singular site of its loch or linn. The location of this lake may properly be
called a broad concavity, and thus the lake, the concavity, and the eximnse, are
the three principal qualities which entered into the ingenious minds of the
British people when they imposed this descriptive name on this agreeable site.
The line eminence which runs out into the loch below ; the church and palace
that stand upon its ridge ; and the town skirting the eminence on the opposite
side ; as they are all modern, do not contribute any quality to the formation
of the name (a). We may learn from the chartularies that Lin-lith-cu is the
most ancient appellation which, in the language of the British settlers here,
in the earliest times of colonization, signifies the concavity of the expansive
lin or loch. Linlitcu is the name of this place in David I.'s charter to
Holyrood, which is the earliest notice (6). In the same prince's grants to
the Abbey of Dunfermline, the name is Linlithcu (c). In his charter to the
monks of Cambuskenneth, the town bears the same name of Linlithcu (d). In
the ancient Taxatio the name is Linlyfhku. We thus perceive the appellation
of this burgh and shire spelt with little or no variety throughout the whole
extent of the Scoto-Saxon period. During the subsequent century, in the char-
ters of the Bruces and Stewarts, the word is variously spelt, according to the hu-
mour of the several scribes (e), Lynlithgow, Linlythku, Linlithqu,Linliscoth, Lin-

(a) See the site of the palace and loch in Slezer's pi., No. 9 and 10, wherein the town, without any
analogy or meaning, is called Limnueh and Limmichensis.

(b) Maitland's Edin., 145. (c) Sir Ja. Dalrymple's Col., 384.

(d) Chart. Cambusk., No. 61.

(e) See Eobertson's Index. Llynn, Lin, Lyn, in the ancient British, signify a loch, a lake, a pond
or pool. Eichard's Welch Diet. ; Lluyd's Archaiol. Pryce's Archaiol. Lied, or Leth, signifies in the
same speech, breadth, width, latitude. Eichard's W. Diet. Cau, or Ca, means, in that language, a
hollow, a cavity. See Owen's Welsh Dictionary, under the several constituent words, Lli/n, Llyth, and
Cw. All such etymologies rest upon the historical fact, which cannot be denied, that the British
tribes were the earliest settlers here.

832 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—LMithf/otcshire.

lisco, Llthgow, Lithcow, are some of the names of this town and shire, as
they have been vai'iously written by different clerks. Legend has, indeed,
connected the story of a dog with the origin of this shire-town, which tradition,
with heraldic help, has emblazoned as the armorial bearings of the corpora-
tion, which the magistrates have been studious to engi-ave on their common
seal {/). Ingenuity has also stepped out to give some descriptive sense to two
syllables of the word, without attending to the most significant prefix, which
is undoubtedly British, and without adverting to the orthography of the name,
that is uniform, from the epoch of record, to the accession of Robert Bruce;
and ingenuity, after all these inadvertencies, instructs us that lith signifies,
in the Saxon, snug or close, and goiv, a vale or hollow ; but Lye does
not recognize lith in this sense, though in the Scoto-Saxon lyth, by a
slight deviation from the original meaning, does signify sheltered or warm ;
and goto he knows not at all, though gau and gou in the ancient German
signify pagus, regio (g). Yet this derivation applies merely to Lyth-gow, the
vulgarized form of the name, which, by excluding the loch, or lake, or lyn,
leaves the name without any local meaning.

Such, then, are the several appellations of the shire-town which have been
given in succession by the British, the Scots, and the Scoto-Saxons. The
popular name of the shire is still more modern. After the name of Lothian
had been given, from the nature of the thing, by the Saxon settlers on the fine
shore from the Tweed to the Avon ; after the name of Lothian had been
restricted to the country between the Lammermuir and the Avon ; after the
Lothians, in the subsequent reigns of the Alexanders, came to be subdivided
into three divisions, Linlithgowshire was denominated West Lothian (h). We
are thus, by Sibbald's investigations, carried back into the regions of fiction !
Boece was, perhaps, the first who said that Lothian of old was called
Pithland {i). Bellenden, his enlarger, adds, " the first part of this isle (because

(f) Stat. Acco., xiv. 548, and see an impression of the seal on the map of the Lothians. A Celtic
etymologist might easily, from those traditional circumstances, discover the origin of the name in the
Gaelic Lin-liath-cu, the lake of the grey dog.

(g) Wachter in vo. goio.

(/i) Sir Robert Sibbald, indeed, has dedicated the second chapter of his History of Linlithgoicslnre
to the investigation " of the names of this shire, ancient and modern." The result of this whole
chapter is, that the monks say it obtained the name of Lothian from Lothus, a king of the Picts : but
the learned David Buchanan gave it as his deliberate opinion that the whole Lothians may have
derived their name from the water of Leitk, which runs through the middle of them. lb. 5.

(i) '• Laudonia PithlamUa olim appellata." The first edition by Badius, 1526.

Sect. YL— Its Civil Ilistvni.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B E I T A I N. 833

" it was inhabited by Brutus and his posterity) was named Britane. The
" second and mid part (because it was inhabited by Pichtis), was named
" Penthlane (k)" ; and Camden, from the intimations of both, was the first
who said distinctly that Lauden was of old, from the Picts, called Pictlandia (f).
In Innes's chronicles, which are as authentic and curious as they are ancient,
Lothian, from the long residence of the Saxons, is more than once called
Saxonia, but never Pictland, Penthland, or Pentland {in) ; while the proper
country of the Picts was called, from them, Pictavia and Pictinia. But the
high grounds which is denominated the Pentland hills, according to Sir Robert
Sibbald, ought to be called jBen-land hills, that is, the mountainous country ;
for Ben, in the Gaelic language, signifies a mountain, and the Pentland liills
seem the highest in Mid-Lothian {n). Conjecture, however, is but an indif-
ferent substitute for fable, and modern misappehension needs not to be adopted
in the place of ancient legend. It was probably the cession, in 1020, of the
country lying along the Forth, from the Tweed to the Avon, by the Earl of
Northumberland to the Scottish king, which gave an ultimate triumph to the
name of Lothian over Saxonia, without the idle aids of fictitious fame.

§ 11. Of its Situation and Extent.] Linlithgowshire has the Firth of Forth
on the north, Edinburghshire on the east and south-east, Lanarkshire on the
south-west, and Stirlingshire on the west. On the east, it is separated from
Edinburghshire, first by the Breich water, from its source till it joins the
Almond ; and after this junction, the Almond forms the more remarkable boundary
throughout its course to the Forth, except at Mid-Calder, where Edinburgh-

(/■) Bellenden's Boece, 1541, b. ii. He afterwards coiTects himself a little, by saying that
Forth is an arm of the sea dividing Pentland from Fife. Doctor Jamieson considers this as an
undoubted corruption of Pichtland or Petland, in the same manner as the designation of the
Pichtland firth has been changed to Pentland; yet a charter of Eobert II.. in October 1372, writes
the name of that frith Pentland freth. Eegist. Eob., ii. y. i. This elaboration about egregious
fictions brings to one's recollection the erudite work of the learned Wise, to settle the chronology of
events that never happened. So the Picts never inhabited Lothian, whatever learning may say or
ignorance misconceive, as we might indeed learn from the ancient Chronicles in Innes's Appendix.

(J) Laudonia, quae et Lauden, et olim a Pictis Pictlandia dicta. The first edition, 1586, 477.

{m) See Saxonia applied to Lot/dan in Innes, 782-788 ; and proper Scotland, lying northward of the
Forth, is frequently called Pictavia from the Picts, and once titled Pictinia. l^ut never Pictland or
Pentland. lb., 768-772-782-801).

(re) Maitl. Edin., 506. Maitland was perfectly awaie that this district was called 'ifie moor, where
the corporation of Edinburgh held markets and levied toll at the house of the moor. Id.

834 AnACCOUNT [Ch. \L— Linlithgowshire.

shire intrudes somewhat more than a mile into Linlithgowshire. On the west,
this country is separated from Stirlingshire, first by the Linn burn, from its rise
till its junction with the Avon, which now forms the separation between them,
till it falls into the Forth (n). The length of the east side, from the foot of
Almond on the north-east, to the top of Breich water on the south-east, is
nearly twenty-one miles. The breadth is twelve miles (o). The superficial
contents of the whole appear, from very minute calculations, to be 121 [126] square
miles, or 77,440 [8 1,113^] statute acres (p). This estimate is somewhat above the
computation in the Agricultural View. Now the population of Linlithgowshire
being 17,844 souls in 1801, this enumeration shows that there are somewhat
more than 147 persons to every square mile. This shire has been several times
surveyed. It was first examined with a scientific eye by Timothy Pont, who
has left us, in Blaeu's Atlas Scotice, a map of Lothian and Linlithquo. Adair
made a map of Linlithgowshire, which was engraved by Richard Cooper ; and
this county was afterward included by Armstrong in his map of the three
Lotliians. It is to be lamented, perhaps, that whatever may be gained in
accuracy by new surveys, is generally lost by excluding all that is curious in
local objects.

§ III. Of its Natural Objects.^ In this shire there are many objects which
are worthy of the attention of the inquisitive naturalist. None of the protu-
berances of this district rise into lofty eminences ; neither is its surface by any
means flat. It is diversified by a number of small hills, which do not rise to
any inconvenient elevation. The most remarkable of them forms a range, which
runs from Bowden, across the middle of the county, in an oblique direction,
from north-west to south-east. Cairn-naple, the most prominent centre of this

(n) On Armstrong's map of tlie Lothians, Linlithgowshire lies between 55° 50' and 56° 1' of north
latitude, and between 3° 7' and 3° 38' of longitude west from London. Armstrong places Linlithgow
town in 55° 59' north latitude, and 3° 25' longitude west from London. According to Arrowsmith's
map, from the Engineer's survey, this shire lies between 55i> 49' and 56° 1' north latitude, and between
3° 18' 40" and 3° 51' 30" longitude west of Greenwich. The shire-town stands in 55° 58' 35" north
latitude, and 3° 35' 50" west longitude from Greenwich.

(o) The greatest extent is on the east side, which measures nearly 21 miles, from the influx of the
Almond into the Forth to the south-east extremity of the county on Breich water. The length of the
west side is nearly 15 miles. The breadth of the northern end of this shire, along the shore of the
Forth, is 12 miles, but the greatest part of this shire is only about 7 miles broad.

(^j) The superfices of this county on Armstrong's map of the Lothians is only 112 square miles, or
71,680 statute acres ; but on Arrowsmith's map of Scotland, it is 121 square miles, or 77,440 statute
acres.

Sect. llL—hs Natural Objects.-} OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 835

range rises to the height of 1,498 feet above the level of the sea (q), and Cock-
lerne, on the western part of this range, rises to the height of 200 feet (?•).
The Kipps hills, Knock hills, and Drumcross hills, all foi-m conspicuous pai'ts
of this range. Ricardton edge and Binny craig may also be deemed a part
of this range, and rise to a considerable elevation. The second class of hills,
which are more worthy of notice, is variously distributed throughout the north-
ern parts of the county along the Forth. Of those, the most conspicuous are
Mons hill, Craigie hill, and Dundas hill in Dalmeny parish ; Craigton hill and
Binns hill in Abercorn parish ; and Irongarth in Linlithgow parish (s). The
middle and western districts of the county are the most hilly ; the east and
north are the most plain. The southern divisions of this shire consist mostly
of moor, moss, and morass, with few heights of any elevation. In general, the
hills in this shire are both useful and ornamental, nearly the whole of them af-
fording ample pasturage from a grassy surface, many of them being ornamented
with woods, and some of them containing valuable minerals.

In Linlithgowshire there are not any waters of great extent. The only lakes
are the loch at Linlithgow town, and Lochcoat in Torphichen parish. The
lake at Linlithgow occupies about 154 English acres, and contains pike, perch
and eels (u). Lochcoat, as it is somewhat more than one furlong long and
one broad, occupies about twenty-two English acres (x), and it also contains
pike, perch and eels (u). Lochcoat empties its superfluous water by a stream
from its north-west end, which falls into what is appropriately called the
Eel Ark ; and from thence runs underground more than two hundred paces,
when it breaks out by a spring, which forms a streamlet that flows into
the Avon (z). Of large rivers this county cannot boast ; yet is it well
watered by several streams for every domestic purpose, while the Almond on
tlie east, and the Avon on the west, are the only considerable riverets. The
Almond is chiefly formed by three small streamlets which rise within the
eastern border of Lanarkshire, and being joined by the Breich, the united
stream flows, in an easy course, between Linlithgowshire and Edinburghshire,

(q) Stat. Acco. iv. 465. (j-) lb. xiv. 5,50.

(s) Stat. Accounts ; Agricult. Survey ; Armstrong's map of the Lothians.

(t) Binns hill in Abercorn is arable to the summit, the soil being rather richer than the
adjacent plain, and every species of fjrain is cultivated on it with advantage. Stat. Acco. xx.
385.

(«) The map of Lothian ; Stat. Acco. xiv. 5()0.

{x) According to a measurement on the map.

(y) Agricult. View, 6 ; Stat. Acco. iv. 46G. (z) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 28.

836 AnACCOUNT [Ch. W.—Linliihgowshire.

till it falls into the Forth at Cramond, after a course of four-and-twenty miles,
that forms the drain of Edinburgh on the west, and Linlithgow on the east.
The Almond receives also Brox burn, with several smaller streams, which
drain the eastern districts of this country.

The Avon, which more properly belongs to Stirlingshii-e, wherein it inses,
and traversing that shire for six or seven miles, enters Linlithgow at West-
Straith. It now separates the two conterminous shires throughout a course
of a dozen miles, when it falls into the Forth. The Avon as it flows receives
some supplies from the Logie water, which drains much of the western divisions
of Linlithgow, and from the Linn burn, that forms the boundary of the two
counties throughout four miles before it mixes with the Avon. With other
rivulets, Midhope burn and Dolphinston burn drain the northern parts of this
shire. The Avon and the Almond are more useful for the driving of mills than
beneficial for fish, which have been forced from their haunts by the operations
of agriculture and manufacture {a).

The Avon has long had the honour of being the western limit of Lothian ;
but the Forth, either as an object of ornament, or as a contributer of profit, is
of the greatest importance to Linlithgowshire. It washes sixteen miles of the
■ northern shores of this county. This estuary supplies sites for salt-pans, fish
for food, and harbours for its traffic. The banks of the Forth are generally
high, except towards the west, where a tract of two thousand acres are left dry
at every reflux of the tide, nearly opposite to the parish of Borrowstouness (b).

Neither does this shire want mineral waters. Near Torphichen, there is a
spring which is strongly impregnated with iron, and which was formerly used
much as a tonic (c). Upon the estate of Kipps, within Torphichen parish, at
the foot of the west bank, there is a vitriolic spring (d). Near Carriberhouse,
there is a mineral spring which, as it resembled the Moftat waters, was for-
merly much resorted to, however much it is now neglected (e). Near the church
of Ecclesmachan there is a mineral spring, which is called the Bullion Well,
which also resembles the Moffat waters, and which has lately lost its visitors,

(a) Agiicult. View, 6 ; Wood's Cramond, 93.

(6) Sibbald says this tract is called the Lady's Half. Some Dutolimen formerly oflFered, in
consideration of a long lease, to bank out the tide, and thereby to convert this alluviated tract to the
various uses of life ; but their proposals were rejected by a weak-sighted proprietor. Sibbald's Lin-
lithgow, 18 ; Stat. Acco., xviii. 443.

{d) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 22. (e) lb. 17 ; Stat. Acco, xiv. 575.

Sect. JU.—Its Natural Objects.] OFNOETH-BRITAIN. 837

while it has retained its virtues (/). In the vicinity of the salt-works, on the
west of Borrowstouness, there is a mineral spring, the waters whereof, as they
flow, deposit a good deal of yellow ochre, and exhibit a mixture of sulphur
and of salts (g).

This small county abounds with minerals of the most useful kind. Pit-coal
is said to have been dug in .the parish of Borrowstouness upwards of five
hundred years ago. Coals were well known and generally worked during
the reign of Alexander III. They have continued to be raised in great
quantities. The average quantity which is yearly dug amounts to 44,000
tons, much whereof are exported at the price of seven shillings and nine pence
per ton. The neighbouring country consumes the remainder. The chew coals
are carried to London ; the small coals are chiefly consumed by the salt-pans (/;).
The parish of Carriden abounds with coals of a finer quality, which yield a
higher price. They are sent to London, to Holland, to Germany, and to the
Baltic (i). In Dalmeny parish, coal is also found {k). In Ecclesmachan
parish, coal appears on every farm ; yet is it not converted to much profit {!).
In the parishes of Uphall, Whitburn, Torphlchen, and Binnie, there are also
abundance of coal (m) ; and we thus see that coals usefully exist In almost
every district of Linlithgowshire. Limestone also every where aboimds In this
county ; Is manufactured to great profit ; and is distributed to general advan-
tage (n). The whole shire seems to stand on a bed of freestone, which is of
the finest quality, and is distributed largely for domestic supply and for
foreign use (o). There are several other sorts of stone, such as whinstone,
granite, slatestone, and basalts, which are every where found in Linlithgow-
shire (p). On Dundas hill there Is a basaltic rock 250 yards long, and about
60 feet high, with an almost perpendicular front, the whole consisting of a
bluish granite of a very fine texture {q). In Borrowstouness, in Torphlchen,

(fj Sibbald's Linlithgow, 14 ; Stat. Acco., ii. 3fi7 (-7) lb. 18.

(/() Stat. Acco., xviii. 436-7. This colliery employs about two hundred and fifty persons.
Sibbald, who published during the reign of Anne, mentions in his Linlithgow, 17, that there
were then several well-peopled villages in this vicinity which were maintained by the many coal
pits.

(t) Sibbald, 19 ; Stat. Acco., i. 98. (k) lb. i. 236. (/) lb. ii. 368.

(m) lb. i. 349 ; xvii. 299-304 ; iv. 466 ; xiv. .060 ; Sibbald's Linlithgow ; and Transactions Antiq.
Soc. Edin., 147.

(ii) Id. (n) Id.

(p) Id. Sibbald speaks oi figured stones which are found in Bathgate hills. Linlithgow, 27 ; and
Sibbald's Prodromus,

{(l) Stat. Acco., i. 237.
4 5N

838 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Yl.— Linlithgowshire.

in Bathgate, in Abercorn, and perhaps in other pnrishes, ironstone is found
in great abundance (?-). Silver and lead mines have been formerly wrought
in Linlithgow parish to some account (s). A vein of silver was discovered in
a limestone rock within Bathgate parish, but the produce did not pay the
expense of raising the ore {t). In the rivulets within Torphichen parish
mundic has been found («). This shii'e is rich in mai'l. Shell marl was
dragged from Linlithgow loch in considerable quantities, till the benefits of
lime as a manure superseded the use of it (x). In Dalmeny parish, there is
a morass of nine acres of shell marl [y). In the parish of Abei'corn, shell marl
is also found. In Uphall parish, both shell and stone marl exist, though not
in gi-eat quantities. Here too are found fuller's earth, potter's clay, brick
clay,, and i-ed chalk {z). Such is the copious catalogue of the useful minerals
of Linlithgowshire. Its plants may vie with its minerals in variety, though
not in value (a).

§ IV. Of its Antiquities. '\ At the Christian epoch, the British tribe of the
Gadeni, who were probably the descendants of the original settlei's, were the
rude inhabitants of the area of Linlithgowshire (6). Of this people, the topo-
graphical language is the earliest antiquities. The names of the waters gener-
ally, and the appellation of Linlithcu, the shire town, particularly, are British in
their origin and descriptive in their applications. The Forth is plainly the
British Forth, which changes to Forth, an estuary. The Avon, in the British,
means a river ; and of Avon, Ainon is a variety, the (m) being sometimes
convertible. The Cornie, a rivulet, as well as Aber, which, when prefixed to
it, forms the well-known name of Aber-corn, the influx of the Cornie. The
Linhnvn is a pleonastic appellation for a rivulet, the British Lin, and the Saxon
burn, signifying equally a streamlet. Caei'loury, Carriber, Caermenden, in
Livingstone parish, the Cannondean of modern maps, Dumanin, the Dalmeny
of the present day, are all British in their origins. Bangour is the same as the
Bangour of Wales, and is from the same source. Ochiltree, which was
formerly Ucheltre, derived its name from the British tichel, high, and tre, a

(r) Stat. Acco. xviii. 441 ; iv. 466 ; i. 349 ; xx. 309 ; Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 147.

(s) Stat. Acco., xiv. 562. («) lb., i. 349.

((/) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 23. (a:) Stat. Acco. xiv. 551. (y) lb. i. 237.

(z) Trans. Autiq. Soc. Edin., 147.

(a) There is a scientific list of the plants of this country, at the commencement of the 18th century,
in Sibbald's Hist, of Linlithgowshire.

(b) Caledonia, i. 59.

Sect. lY.—Its A ntiquities.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 839

dwelling. The house of Ochiltree stands on the summit of a hill. Inch-cors
was formed by jarefixing the Scoto-Irish inch to the British C07's, a /en. The
ca7'7i and craig which appear in the names of several places are common both to
the British and Gaelic tongues ; as Eglwys and Eccles are equally common to
both. The Peel of Linlithgow and the Peel of Livingston derive their
api^ropriate names from the British Pill, which signifies a, fort, and was after-
ward adopted into the Scoto-Saxon. The prefix in Caer-iden is merely the
British caer, a fort, which was applied allusively by the Gadeni people to the
Roman station.

To the language of the living, the burial of the dead forms the next class
of the earliest antiques. In Torphichen parish, and upon Lochcoat hills, there
is a large cairn of stones, which denotes the interment of ancient warriors (c).
On a high bank of the Forth, about a mile west of Barnbougle castle, there is
a sepulchral cairn, 500 feet in circumference and 24 feet high (d). Near Kirk-
liston there is a circular tumulus of great antiquity, which is composed of
earth, and is surrounded with large rough stones that are placed at some
distance from each other (c). On the south bank of the Almond, and opposite to
Livingstonhouse, there are four sepulchral tumuli, which appear to have been
formed from excavations of the earth, which still appear around them. The
country people uniformly ascribe those ancient works to the Picts {/). To
the cairns and barrows may be added stones of memorial. In the wood of
Abercorn there is a coarse grey stone, standing on end, which tradition intimates
to have been the appropriate site of ancient meetings [g). Near Bathgate there

(d) It is composed of small stones, granite, quartz, ironstone and limestone, which had been col-
lected from the neighbouring grounds. It is called, by the country people, the Earl Cairnie. Stat.
Acoo., i. 238.

(e) lb., X. 68-75. Along the banks of the Almond, stone coffins and human bones have been fre-
quently dug up, and evince that here have been the bloody scenes of ancient conflicts. Id. On the
way to Queensferry, a little northward of Cramond bridge, there were found, when enlarging the road,
some stone cases, which were composed of six square stones, about a foot long and one broad, and
which contained ashes. Sibbald's Rom. Antiq., 51.

( /') Stat. Acco., XX. 15. In two of these barrows which have been opened, there were found, near
the surface, a great number of stone coffins containing the remains of human skeletons, which, on
being exposed to the air, crumbled into dust. These coffins were foimed of rough flagstones ; were
in general not more than five feet long, without any covering. Several other stone coffins of the same
kind and dimensions have been dug up in the same neighbourhood. Id.

(a) lb. 339.

840 An account [Ch. \ .—Linlithgoivshire.

is a remarkable standing stone upon a farm, which is named from it Stonerig (h).
There are also memorial remains of the Druid worship. In Torphichen parish,
near Kipp's house, there is a cromlech, whereon, says tradition, sacrifices were
anciently performed (/). Near this cromlech there is a Druid circle of stones,
which are set upright, having one or two placed in the centre. On a small
eminence in this vicinity there is a single stone of a conical shape, which
stands on end (k). To objects of woi'ship may be subjoined places of strength.
Near Linlithgow, on Cocklerne hill, the Gadeni had a fort, the vestiges whereof
may still be seen ; and at the bottom of this hill there is the appearance of an
entrenchment (/). In Torphichen, on Bowden hill, there was a similar fort.
The summit of the hill was surrounded by double ramparts and entrench-
ments in a cii'cular form, which may still be traced (m). In this parish, on
Cairnpaple hill, which rises to the height of 149 feet above the sea-level, there
are similar remains of an ancient strength (n). There also appears to have
been a fort of the same people on the top of Binn's hill (o). Near Linlithgow,
on an eminence above Ochiltree mill, may yet be seen the remains of a similar
fortlet (^j). Such are the antiquities of the Gadeni people, the earliest inha-
bitants of this district.

Yet the strengths of the Gadeni did not prevent the invasion of their
country by a foreign intruder, who knew how to conquer and to civilize. The
epoch of that invasion is 81 a.d., when the Romans, under Agricola, seized the
peninsula between the Forth and Clyde, which he secured by a chain of forts,
and garrisoned by soldiers of a different lineage ; and thus were the Gadeni,
the ancient possessors of the land, subdued to a foreign power. The year 83
may be considered as the epoch of the first arrival in the Forth of a Roman
fleet. Agricola, during the same year, passed from this peninsula, near Carri-
den, to the opposite shore of the Forth, in quest of the Horestii. The valour
of the tribes beyond the estuaiy did not prevent the disadvantageous conclusion
of the war, and the Gadeni country remained within the jurisdiction of the
Roman conquerors (q).

(h) Armstrong's Map.

(t) This cromlech is of a large size, and is composed of four great whin-stones in their rude state.
three whereof are supporters, and the fourth is placed upon them in an inclined position to the south.
Sibbald's Linlithgow, 26.

(k) Id. ; Gough's Camden, iii. 318 ; Stat. Acco., iv. 470.

(/) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 26 ; Stat. Acco., xiv. 567.

(w) Sibbald, 26 ; Stat Acco., xiv. 470 ; Armstrong's map.

(;j) Armstrong's Map. (o) Id. (p) Stat. Acco., xiv. 470.

(q) See Caledonia, i. bk. i. ch. iii.

Sect. IV.— /^' .4 ntiquitie!'.'] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 841

It was five-and-fifty years afterwards, and during the reign of the Antonines,
that a wall was built, under Lollius Urbicus, from the Clyde, near Old Kil-
patrick, to the Forth, at Carriden. It entered this shire when it crossed the
Avon at Bank-End, whence it proceeded to Inver-Avon, where was placed a
station upon the wall (s). From this position the wall proceeded eastward to
Kinneil (<). The track of the rampart may be faintly traced to the house of
Grange, beyond which it may be seen further eastward, pointing to the high
bank of the Forth at Carriden, where probability and remains equally evince
that it must have ended {u). This celebrated fence thus traversed this shire the
extent of 7,450 yards, from its entrance at the Avon till its end at Carriden {x),
the Penuahel of the PIcts, the Penueltun of the Saxons {y).

The Romans were probably the first makers of roads in this shire. A mili-
tary way accompanied the wall of Antonine throughout its whole extent, for
the accommodation of the troops who defended it (z). From the Roman station
at Cramond, a Roman road proceeded westward along the shore of the Forth to
Carriden. Crossing the Almond, it entered Linlithgowshire, and passing thence
by Barnbougle hill, it crossed Ecklin moor, where its remains plainly appear,
and proceeded forward to the end of the wall (a). The Romans appear to have
had several small posts along the shore of the Forth, from Carriden to Cramond,
as Gildas and Bede, our oldest antiquaries, clearly intimate {h). One of these

(s) Gordon, Hoislej', and Eoy, agree in stating that no vestages of this station remained.
Itiii. Sept. 60 ; Brit. Rom., 173 ; Mil. Antiq., 162. Sibbald, however, says " at Inveravon there
is yet standing part of a Roman turris speculatoriuin, and the track of the other buildings may yet be
seen." Sibbalds Linlithgow, 17, which those writers seem not to have examined. Yet the
minister of Borrowstouness, who surveyed those objects in 1796, says, '•the Roman wall is still
distinctly visible on the ecist bank of the Avon. At Inveravon the ruins of a Roman tower still remain.
It was built of common free-stone, and stands in a very conspicuous place." Stat. Acco., xviii.
441.

(/) Between Inveravon and Kinneil, which are distant 3,400 yards, there are yet some faint traces
of the ditch. Roy imagines there may have been a station at Kinneil. Milit. Antiq., 162.

(/() Sibbald's Linlithgow, 19-20 ; Gordon's Itin., 60 ; Horsley's Rom., 173, Roy's llil. Antiq., 163;
Stat. Acco., xviii. 441 ; and see Gildas, who speaks of Kair-Eden as an ancient city, and Bede, 1. i.,
c. xii. The minister of Carriden adds in 1791, "about fifty years ago, in digging stones to build a
park dyke, axes, pots, and vases, which were evidently of Roman workmanship, were here found, and
sent to the Advocates' Library." Stat. Acco., i. 100 ; and see Sib. Linlithgow, 19 ; and Gordon's
Itin., 60-1.

{x) Roy's Mil. Antiq., 1 63. (//) Bede, c. xii. {z) Eoy.

{a) Maitland's Hist. Scot,, i. 203 ; Roy's Mil. Ant., 103.

842 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Yl.—Lm/Myowshire.

is supposed to have occupied the site of the old castle of Abercorn (c). At
some distance eastward from Abercorn, there are the vestiges of a small Roman
camp at a wind-mill which belonged to Dundas of Manor (d). Thus remains
seem to confirm the intimations of those early antiquaries who speak of the
Roman towers along the bank of the Forth. There is even some reason to sup-
pose that the Romans may have had a villa on the distinguished site of the
shire town, wliere the Gadeni had a hamlet before them (e). Here the Romans
remained till their late departure, after a residence of more than three hundred
and fifty years within this shire.

The descendants of the subdued and civilized Gadeni retained the lands
which the}' occupied, and resumed such a government as pleased themselves.
But neither the Picts, who had no right to their lands and no pretension to
their government, nor the Scots, who did not then inhabit North-Britain,
interrupted their enjoyments. During an early period of their independence the
Romanized Britons of this shire were invaded by a new people from the neigh-
bouring continent {/). But there is better evidence of the fact than the
obscure notices of half-informed writers. The language which those German
people left in the names of places evinces sufiiciently that they settled in this
shire, though perhaps not in great numbers, during the fifth and sixth cen-
turies (g). Yet such names are not numerous, nor do they exhibit much

(J) " In littore quoque oceani ad meridiem quo naves eorum habebantur, quia et inde barbaroruni
irruptio timebatur, turres per intervalla ad prospectum maris coUocant." Smith's Bede, 50.

(e) lb. 15. An urn full of Eoman coins was in 1781 turned up by the plough in the burgh
moor, close to the town of Linlithgow. Of these three hundred coins, which were about the size of a
sixpence, five of the emperors, Vespasian, Domitian, Trajan, Antoninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, two of
Hadrian, and two of the empress Faustina, were presented by Robert Clerk, the provost of Linlithgow,
to the Antiquary Society of Edinburgh. Transactions, 60. Yet I cannot concur with Camden and his
followers, in considering Linlithgow as the Lindum of Ptolomy, which has been placed at Ardoch on
much better principles. Gough's Camden, iii. 305 ; Sibbald's Linlithgow, 14 ; but Pennant states the
same point merely as a supposition. Scot. Tour, ii. 231.

(J) Nennius, xxxvii,

(y) West-Lothian exhibits in its map fewer Saxon words than Mid and East Lothians, and fewer
still than Berwickshire. The Saxon words which chiefly appear within Linlithgowshire in the names
of places, are Hleaw, or Law, a hill, in twelve names ; Lee, or Leag. a field or pasture, in two names ;
Shaw, a wood, in two names ; Holm, a flat field, in one name ; By, a habitation, in one name ; Ham,
a dsvelliug, in one name ; Hope, a hollow or recess, in two names ; Dene, a valley, in three names ;
Shiel, a shieling, in three names ; /?!>/, a lilge, in six or eight names ; Chester, a fortification, in one
name.

Sect. IV.— Its A jitujuittes.] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 843

Gothicism, in their general cast (h). The Anglo-Saxon names, in the topo-
graphy of this shire, are in nuinher to the Scoto-Irish as only one to three.
Neither is there in it any appearance which could induce a fair inquirer to
suppose that the Northumbrian Danes ever settled in Linlithgowshire (»).
The outline of the history of West-Lothian, as it is intimated by Bede, is con-
firmed by those tojjographical notices. Man}- years elapsed, after the settle-
ment of the Angles in Lothian, before a regular government was settled within
this extensive region. Edwin, who assumed the Northumbrian sceptre in
617 A.D., stretched his jurisdiction from the Humber to the Avon {k). But
neither the episcopate of York nor the bishopric of Lindisfarne existed at
that epoch. When this bishopric was established in 635 A.D., during the
second year of Oswald, the potent Northumbrian king, the episcopate of Aidan
was made co-extensive with the kingdom of Oswald, in Lothian. A monastery
was established as early perhaps at Abercorn. Here, in 684 A.D., was
settled the seat of the bishopric of the Picts, with Trunwin for their bishop.
But this establishment .did not last long; and the defeat and death of
Egfrid in 685 gave a fatal shock to the Northumbrian kingdom in Lothian.
Yet the power of the Northumbrian king, and the jurisdiction of the bishop of
Lindisfarne over every part of Lothian continued for ages, however they
may have been impaired (/). At a later period, when Kenneth the son of
Alpin conducted his Scots from Argyle to the land of the Picts, the Lothians
were at that epoch called Saxonia (m), from the continued prevalence of the
Saxon people.

The Gaelic Scots now gained the ascendency. Saxonia was frequently over-
run by Kenneth (n). It was feebly defended by the Northumbrian powers,
who were themselves weakened by distraction. This shire became the conten-
tious scene, whereon those several people contended for superiority. The
Saxons of Northumberland withdrew from the struggle; and in 1020 the
Lothians were resigned, as we have seen, to the Scottish kings for ever.
From the scantiness, however, of the Saxon names of places, we may easily

(h) None of the names of places in this shire exhibit the Saxon words, Dod, Cleugh, Threap, or
Thwait, which appear in the more southern counties.

(i) There is no instance of the Fell here, nor is there any other appearances which seem to point to
a Danish or Norwegian people.

(Jc) Smith's Bede, App. No. ii., with the map annexed.

(/) When Bede finished his history in 732 A.D.. he described Northumberland as extending along
the Forth to the Avon. Smith's edition, 650. The Picts lived beyond the Forth.

(h() See the Colbertine Chron. No, iii. in lunes's Essay. (») Id.

844 AnACCOUNT [Ch. lN.—Liniith,jowshire.

suppose, that the Saxon settlers never peopled this shire to any great extent.
Tlie Gaelic colonists planted it with greater numbers, or were more busy, in
giving their own names to the places of their residence (o). Those Gaelic
names prevail, and perhaps the Scottish settlements were most numerous in the
west and south-western parts of this shire. The Scottish people, from an
analogy in their nature and their tongues, grafted their own speech on British
names, as in Inver-Avon, Inch-cors, and so in others. The Scoto-Saxon
people followed the same practice, by making pleonastic additions to the pre-
vious names of the prior people, as in Barbauch-Zaiw, Briech-iwtier, Gvsag-hills,
Dupol-6?»7i, and so in others. Such are the topographical notices which
supply the most authentic history of those various jieople, with the languages
which they spoke and the settlements that they made. The inhabitants of
this shire, during every period, lived under such a polity as was analogous to
the genius of the successive people who predominated, whether British or
Roman, Scottish or Scoto-Saxon. Such, then, are the real antiquities of Lin-
litligowshii'e ! There are some other objects, which some writers consider as
the only antiquities which are worthy of their antiquarian attention. In Kii-k-
liston parish, indeed, is the Cat-stane, which we have formerly seen is merely
the hattle-stone, and is certainly a memorial stone of some conflict and of
some person. By other disquisitors, ruinous religious houses and disparted
castles are regai'ded as notable antiques ; but without chronology, what
instruction can they give, or what curiosity can they gratify ? {h)

(o) The following are the most remarkable Gaelic names in this shire. Achin-heaA, Balncrief,
Balnbairdie, Balgreen, Barnbougle, Bearhard, Binns, Binnie, Bagornie, Bedlormie, Barbauch-\a,w,
Buchans, Briech water, Cairnie, Cairnpaple hill, Craiy hills, Craigs, CV<«(/sraarie, Craigie, Carlowrie,
Carruber, Cult, Dalmeny, Dundas, Duntarvie, Drum, Drumbeg, Drumduff, Drumlyon, Drummelzie,
Dnimtassie, Dnimbonie, Dnimshags, Drumforth, Drumcross, Dipple, or Dupol-hnm, Deichmont,
Eckliue, Flass, Glendevon, Inch in several names, Kinneil, Kinglas, Kincavel, Kilpunt, Killieautj',
Kipps, Logie water, Minifie, Polkemmet, Powflat, Strath. Tannach, Toi-phichen, Torbane hill, Tar-
travan ; and from the Gaelic, also, are the names of the two ancient churches of Ald-Cathie, and
Strathbroc.

(y>) We may see. indeed, in Slezer's Theati-um Scotice, 1693, pi. 10, a delineation of the palace of
Linlithgow. When John Bay, the botanist, visited Linlithgow in August 1661, lie saw the king's
palace, " built in the manner of a castle, a very good house as houses go in Scotland." Itinerary,
199. On the other hand, Grose speaks of its viaynificence, even after it had become a ruin; and Arthur
Johnstone in his Carmen de Ltmnucho cries out :

" Nobile Limnuchum est, Pario de Marmore teniplum
Hie nitet, impensae non mediocris opus. '

It consisted, says tlie engineer Slezer, oi faiir towers, between which the court, the chapel, and the rest

Sect, v.— Its Establishment as a Shire.] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 845

§ V. Oj' its Establishment as a Shire.^ The iJolicy of a sheriffdom was pro-
bably introduced into West-Lothian as eai'ly as the reign of David I. The
earliest notice which research has discovered of a sheriff' in LinHthgowshire,
is during the reign of Malcolm IV. (q) This office continued throughout the
long reign of William the Lion, though the successive sheriffs cannot be easily
ascertained (r). It seems, however, to be certain, that the sheriffdom remained
till the accession of Robert Bruce, though the sheriffs passed away (s), and
when the overpowering Edward I. settled the government of Scotland in Sep-
tember 1305, he appointed Ive de Adeburgh the sheriff of Linlithgow, Edin-
burgh and Haddington (t).

With the accession of Robert I. some change seems to have taken place,
which supposes that Linlithgow had become a constabulary (u). Linlithgow
equally continued a constabulaiy throughout the reigns of David II., Robert II.,
and Robert III. (x). Linlithgow remained under this form of a constabulaiy

of the buildings were extended. Grose has a view of the palace of Linlithgow, which was sketched in
1790 ; and Oardonnel has two delineations of this palace, which were taken in 1789. Ou the 1st of
February 1746, ''the ancient palace of Linlithgow was accidentally burnt to the ground. Soldiers
were quartered in it the night before, and it was suspected that they had not been careful enough of
their fires." Scots Mag. 48.

(q) After mentioning "Baldwin vicecomes meus de Lanaro, and Galfrid vicecomes mous de Castello
Puellarum.'' he speaks of Uti-edus vicecomes de fJthni/u. This chaiter of Malcolm IV. is dated " apud
Castellum Puellarum me postquam arma suscepi." Chart. Newbotle, No. 175. Malcolm IV. was
made a knight in 1159, if that were the meaning of his taking arms. Chron. Mei. 168 ; Chron. of
Holyrood. Utred is also mentioned as the perambulator of the lands of Bathgate in another charter of
Malcolm IV. lb. No. 159.

(r) Sir James Dalrymple's Ool, 425 ; Sibbald's Hist. Linlithgow, 4.

(.«) In July and August 1296, the various persons living in West-Lothian who swore fealty to
Edward I., are described as being in the sheriffdom of Linlithijoiv. Prynne, iii. On the 2nd of
September 1296, Edward I., on the submission of those several persons, issued separate writs
to the sheriff of Edinburghshire and to the sheriff of Linlithgow, for restoring their estates.
Rym. ii. 723-7. On the 5tli of October in the same year, he committed the three several sJteriff'doms
of Haddington, Edinburgh, and Linlithgow, to the charge of Walter de Huntercomb. lb. 7;il.

{t) Eyiey's Placita, 504.

((() In the Chartulary of Cambuskenneth, 178, there is a precept of Robert I., which was addressed
to the sheriff of Edinburgh and the baillie of Linlithgow, directing that the lands of Kettliston should
not be obliged thereafter to yield suit and service at the town of Linlithgow. On the IGtli of January
132C-7, the same king granted to the monks of Culross the barony of Philipston, lying " in ricecoiuitatii
de Edinburph, et infra constabulariuin de Linlithgow.'' MS. Monast. Scotise.

(.(■) In June 1334, Edward Baliol, the pretender to the Scottish crown, transfen-ed to the English
4 5 0

846 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Yl.— Linlithgowshire.

throughout the regency of Albany {y). In this subordinate state, it continued,
probably, dui'ing the reigns of James I. and James II. In the subsequent reign
of James III., Linlithgow was undoubtedly a sheriftUom, though the manner
and the time of the change are obscure (2). On the 18th of March 1481-2,
the sheriffs of Lithgu, of Edinburgh, of Ayr, and of Lanark, sat in parliament
among the smaller barons, as we know from the Parliamentary Record.
After the violent accession of James IV., Linlithgow continued a distinct
shire (a) ; and it continued a separate sheriffdom throughout the reign of
James IV. (6). From this epoch till the final abolition of the heritable jurisdic-

king the county of Edinburgh, and the conetabularies of Haddington and Linlithgow. Kym. iv. 615.
In November 1361, a charter of David, the son of Walter, the Lord of Kinnele, declared the barony of
Kiiinele to be within the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, in the constabulary of Linlithgow. Chart. Glasg.
3.')9. In a charter of confii'mation of David II., dated the 6th of April 1362, Kinnele is said to be in
the constabulary of Linlithgow. lb. 363. In the Tcuratio of 1369, Linlithgow is also declared to be
a constabulary. Pari. Eec. 107. We thus see, then, that throughout the whole reign of David 11.
Linlithgow was considered as a constabulary. In the two subsequent reigns of Robert II. and
Eobert ILL, the constabulary of Linlithgow continued within the sheriffwick of Edinburghshire,
lb. 139-144-8-50-1.

(y) In a charter of the regent duke, [1406-1409] the lands of Bathcat are declared to be in the
constabulary of Linlithgow and sheriffdom of Edinburgh. Eoberts. Index, 164. In another charter
of the same repent, the barony of Abercorn is also declared to be within the constabulary of Linlithgow.
lb. 159.

(z) On the 12th of Januarj' 1467-8, John Stewart of Craigie and William of Crawford, were the
persons who were appointed in parliament to take the amount of every man's rent in the Sherijfdom of
IJthipi. Par. Eec. 151. A cause was heard in parliament on the 19th of July 1476, at the instance
of James, Lord Hamilton, against Sir John Colquhoun and James Shaw, the sheriffs of Linlithgow,
for error in serving a writ from chancery in favour of Marion, the widow of the late James, Lord
Livingstone, claiming one third of his lands and rents within the .sheriffdom of Linlithgow. One of
the ei'ror.s assigned was that the writ was executed ivithont tlie said shire and within the shire of
Edinburgh ; and the Lords found that they had done wrong, and set aside the retour as to the lands
of Lethbert and Bromeinch. lb. 213. In June 1478. there was a similar cause heard in parliament,
wherein it equally appeared that Linlithgow was then a sheriffdom. lb. 220. There are other
notices during the reign of James III., which equally evince that, in the contemplation of parliament,
Linlithgow was then a sheriffdom. lb. 227-259.

(a) In the arrangements which were made in the parliament of Februar}' 1489-90, for collecting
the king s rents and dues in every shire, the treasurer. Sir William Knolls, the preceptor of Tur-
phichen, was appointed to collect those of Linlithquoshire. lb. 364.

(b) Chart. Newbottle, 310. In 1503, Patrick Hamilton of Kincavel was sheriff of Linhthgowshire.
Balfour's Practiks, 16. On the 14th of July 1525, James Hamilton of Kincavel rendered his accounts
at Edinburgh. Chart. Cambuskeneth, 177. He was the brother of Patrick Hamilton, who suffered

Sect, v.— Its Establishment as a Slare.'] OfNOKTH-BBITAIN. 847

tions, Linlithgow continued a sheriffdom. In the progress of a century of
weakness and distraction, this office became liereditary. On the 8th of May
1568, Sir Andrew Ker, tlie sheriff of Linliihgoio, had the honour to sign tlie
association, at Hamilton, in defence of Mary Stewart (c). In 1600, James VI.
granted the office of sheriff 'pnncipal of Linlithgowshire to James Hamilton, the
eldest son of Claud, Lord Paisley, and to his heirs male {d). James Cochran
of Barbachlaw was appointed, in 1622, the sheriff of Linlithgowshire (e).
Several persons followed him in the same office during the terrible times
which succeeded. Soon after the Restoration, the office was granted here-
ditarily to John Hope of Hopetoun, who perished on the 7th of May 1682,
in the same shipwreck that had like to have proved fatal to the Duke of
York {/). Upon the deprivation of John Hope, George Earl of Linlithgow
was appointed sheriff during pleasure (g). On the 20th of June 1682, how-
ever, Sir William Hope of Grantoun was appointed sheriff of Linlithgow during
the minority of Charles Hope, the heritahle shenff (h), who was born in 1681 ;
and Charles Hope, coming of age in 1702, became in his own right the
sheriff of Linlithgow. He was created Earl of Hopetoun in 1703 ; he was
appointed Lord Lieutenant of Linlithgowshire in 1715; and dying on the
26th of February 1742, aged 61, left his earldom and office to his son

foi- his tenets in 1528. Keith, 8. James Hamilton, the sheriff of Linlithgow, was summoned for
heresy, and, upon his non-appearance at Holj'roodhouse, on the 26th of August 1534, the bishop
of Boss, as commissioner for the archbishop of St. Andrews, pronounced the doom of heres}-.
Keith, 525. In 1539, he was permitted to return for a few months to arrange his private affairs,
when he revealed to James V. the treason of Sir James Hamilton of Finai-d. lb. 11 : Drummond,
332. The sentence of the bishop of Eoss was reversed by the General Assembly of 15G3. Keith,
524-5.

(d) Doug. Peer. 2, quotes the charter in the Pub. Archives. In 1601, the king granted him the
manor of Abercorn, and in 1606, the same Sir James Hamilton was created Earl of Abercorn, and he
died before his father in 1618. This family afterward disposed of the barony of Abercorn, and pro-
bably conveyed with it the heieditary sheriffship of Linlithgow. In 1678, Sir Walter Seton sold the
barony of Abercorn to John Hope of Hopeton.

(e) Nisbet's Heraldry, i. 327.

(/) Crawfurd's Peer. 219. On the 6th of October 1681, at the privy council, the Lords took
occasion to call upon the laird of Hopetoun to take the test as sheriff' of Liiilith(joiv ; and upon
his tergiversation and refusal, the privy council declared that he had lost his right during his life
(it being heritable), and that the supplyujg of the vacancy beknged to the king. Fountainhall, i.
159.

{y) Warrant Book in the Paper Office, vi. 471. (It) lb. vii. 170.

848 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. V.— /. inlithgoivshire.

John (^). His son lived to be compensated for all his hereditary jurisdictions
in 1747 {k). Under the new regimen, John Gillon of Wellhouse, advocate,
was appointed sheriff- depute of Linlithgow and Bathgate, at a salary of £150
a-year.

The power of the sheriff, and the extent of his authority, seems to have been
always limited by local jurisdictions, either ecclesiastical or temporal. Kirk-
liston and other lands were formed into a regality for the archbishop of
St. Andrews, to which a bailliery belonged, and for which the Earl of Hopeton
was compensated, as we have just seen {I). Bathgate was long a barony before
it became a separate sheriffwick {vi). Torphichen was of old a regality, which
belonged to the knights of Jerusalem ; and which, as it was transferred, with
the rights of the order, to Lord Torphichen, in January 1563-4, was claimed
by a descendant as an hereditary jurisdiction, and compensation granted to him,
in 1747 («). Kinneil was a regality which belonged to the Duke of Hamil-
ton (o). Brighouse and Ogleface formed a regality which belonged to the

(i) Doug. Peer. 350, states his death, mistaking!}-, in 1741 ; the Scots Mag. 94, and the Geut. Mag.
163, concur in recording his death on the 26th February 1742, as above.

{k) We know, from tlie List of Claims and Compensations, that he claimed.

For the sheriffdom of Linlithgow, redeemable ------ £3.000

For the Sheriffdom of Bathgate -------- 2,000

For the regality of St. Andrews, south of the Forth . - . - - 1,500

For the baillieri/ of Crawfordmuir ------- 500

For the rei/ality of Kiikheugh -------- 500

£7,600
For which he was paid --.-..--- 4,569

(/) Beliq. Divse Andreas, 67 ; Sibbald's Linlithgow, 12.

(m) Robert I. granted the barony of Bathgate and many lands to Walter the Stewart, with his
daughter Marjory. Koberts. Index, 9. The Stewart lived in a moated castle near Bathgate, where he
died in 1318. Stat. Acco.. i. 354. Robert, Duke of Albany, confirmed the grant of Janet de Keith of
Bathgate to her son Sir William Hamilton. lb. 164. On the 4th of June 1663. Charles II. granted
to Thoma.s Hamilton of Bathgate, the barony, with the office of sheriff of Bathgate. Chart. Pub.
Records. On the 23rd of May 1683, a warrant issued for restoring Alexander Cochran of Barbachlaw
to the office of sheriff of Bathgate. War. Book, Pap. Office; and see Sibbald's Linlithgow, 21. Lord
Livingston had been appointed sheriff of Bathgate, during pleasure, on the 19th of January 1681-2, as
well as sheriff of Linlithgow. War. Book, vi. 588.

(«) Id. ; Sibbald's Lithgow, 22-25 ; and Douglas's Peerage, 670. See Inquisit. Speciales, vii. 10<S.
James Lord Torphichen w;vs paid for the regality of Torphichen, £134 12s. Od.

(o) Robert I. granted to Walter, the son of Gilbert, the first of the family of Hamilton, the barony
of Kinneil. Robertson's Index, 11 : and Robert III. granted the same barony to James Hamilton. lb.
139; Sibbald's Lithgow, 17.

Sect. Y.—n.s E.'<t(iMishment as a Shire.'] 0 P N 0 B T II - B R I T A 1 N. 840

Earl of Linlithgow while his family was free from forfeiture {p), and there
was a royal bailliery at Linlithgow, whereof the same Earls of Linlithgow were
the hereditary baillies (q). The monks of Culross enjoyed of old a regal juris-
diction over the barony of Philipstoun. The Earl of Stair claimed for this
jurisdiction £100 at the epoch of the abolition; and he also claimed i;iOO
for the regality of Brest mill ; but for all his claims, amounting to £3,200,
he was allowed, on that occasion, only £450. In addition to those sever.d
regalities, there wei'e various baronies which possessed peculiar jurisdictions.
The oldest barony whereof any evidence remains, is that of Dundas, which is
certainly as ancient as the reign of William I. (r). Abercorn, which was honoured
by the notice of Bede, was the barony of the celebrated Sir John Graham, who
died for his country on the field of Falkirk, in 1298. By Robert I., it was
granted as a barony to John Graham ; and after various transmissions, Aber-
corn passed into the family of Hopetoun, in 1678 (s). Livingston was also a
barony of early creation. Carriden became the property of William de Vetere-
ponte, by a grant from William the Lion, with baronial rights. It was con-
firmed, with those privileges, to William de Vetereponte by Robert Bruce (t).
Carribber, in Linlithgow parish, was also of old a barony (ii). Dalmen}^,
which was anciently called Dnraany, was a barony before the accession of
Robert Bruce, in the possession of Roger Moubray ; and on account of his
forfeiture, it was granted by that great prince to Murdoch Moiiteith (.r).
Bainbougle was also the barony of Roger Moubray, which he forfeited, and
which was granted by R.obert Bruce to the same Murdoch Monteith (y). In

(ji) lb. 16-25 : Dougl. Peer., 413 ; Roberts. Index, 155. Robert III. granted to the canons of
Holyrood a regal jurisdiction over their barony of Ogilface. Regist. Rob. III., Rot. x. Alexander,
the second Earl of Linlithgow, obtained in 1608, a grant of the hereditary office of justiciar)' and
baillie of the barony of Ogilface, with the village and lands of Bedlormie and Wester-Craigs. Dougl.
Peer., 413, quotes the charter in the Records.

(</) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 11-16.

(r) The charter of Dundas was printed by Sir James Dalrymple in his Col., 382, and was engraved
for the Diplomata Scotise. The rights of a barony were granted by a reference to the privileges of
similar tenures.

(.«) Robertson'.:! Index, 11-40-129-150-9 ; Douglas Peer., 2 ; and Stat. Acco., xx. 394-7.

(0 Robertson's Index, 79. The former grants were confirmed by David IL Id.; but David
conveyed this barony to Alexander de Cockburn, because John de Vetereponte had alienated his rights
without the king's licence first obtained.

(//) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 17. (x) Robertson's Index, 11.

(.(/) Robertson's Index, 21. This barony, which comprehended the lands of Easter-Craigie at the
mouth of the Avon, seems to have been restored to the forfeited family in the person of Philippa
Moubray. lb. 60-4.

850 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Yl.—LinlithgowsJm-e.

the beginning of the 14th century, Strathbrock was a barony in the possession
of Sir Reginald le Chene (2). Such were tlie various jurisdictions which were
solicited by the ambition, and granted by the impolicy of former times. They
once confounded, rather than promoted the justice of Linlithgowshire ; and long
were they prostituted to the interests of individuals, rather than dedicated to
general convenience.

§ VI. Of its Civil History.] Under this head of narration, Linlithgow, the
shire town, demands the first notice. During the reign of David I., he had
here a castle and a grange ; and it was this grange and that castle which
formed, on this agreeable site, a town that was an inconsiderable part of the
royal demesne (a). The villages in the royal demesne were all in those times
called the king's burghs, while the term, royal burghs was yet unknown in
Scotland. Linlithgow continued to be the occasional residence of David L and
his successors, as they moved from one of their manors to another, for the con-
sumption of their stock (b). At the sad demise of Alexander III., before it had
yet obtained a charter, Linlithgow was governed by two bailies, John Babuck
and John de Mar, who were obliged, on the 28th of August 1296, to submit to
a' predominant power (c).

(z) Chart. Newbotle, No. 222 ; and Eobertson'a Index, 79.

(a) Charter of Holyrood, which expressly speaks of Ms castle at Linlithcu, and of the sheep that
belonged to it. Maitland's Edin., 145. If the minister who wrote the account of this parish had
only cast his learned eyes on this charter, he would scarcely have allowed his intelligent mind to doubt
whether David I. had a residence at Linlithgow. Stat. Acco., xvi. 5fi6-7. To the abbeys of Dunferm-
line and Cambuskeneth, the beneficent David I. granted by several charters mansions in his town of
Linlithcu. Sir James Dalrymple's Col., 384 ; Chart, of Cambus., No. 1. These facts evince that
Linlithgow was then only the king's town in demenne ; but that it was made a royal burgh by an act of
parliament under that king, is too wild an absurdity to be easily allowed. It may have been an act
of David II.

(t) Several charters of the Scottish kings, which were dated at Linlithgow during that period,
prove that those kings resided there.

(c) Prynne, iii. 6.54. At the same time swore fealty to Edward I. Andrew le Serjeant, William
Othihull, John le Porter, Matbew de Kinglas, Henry del Wro, Philip de Aberaethy. Gilbert do Hilde-
clive, William le Fitz Eni:ind, Michael le Lardiner, Nicol le Serjeant, Burgesses, '• e tote la cnmiine de
mesme le burg." Id. There was a writ of Edward I., dated the 28th December 1292, addressed
" prepositis de Linlithgow.'' requiring the payment of £59 2s. Id., the arrears of the ^firm of the town
which were due to the king of Norway. Kotuli Scotiae. 15. There was another writ, dated the 5th
of July, which was addressed to the burgesses of Linlithgow, commanding them to pa\' to the same
king £7 4s. lOd.. as arrears of their firms. lb. 16. Linlithgow was then the king's town in demesne ;
the rents and profits, or firms, were let by the Scottish king to the community or corporation whatever

Sect. yj.—Its Civil m.-<tov:i.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 85 1

The most eminent man in Linlithgowshire during that age, was Sir Nicol de
Graham of Abercorn, who was the only person from Linlithgowshire that
sat in the great parliament of Brigham, on the 17th of March 1290 {d). Of
this shire, who swore fealty to Edward L, in 1296, were Freskin de Douglas
and William Fitz Andrew de Douglas (e). There were several tenants of the
king's lands lying about Linlithgow town, who swore fealty on that occasion (/).
Only one tenant there was of the bishop of St. Andrews in West-Lothian, Simon
de Liston, who also was required to acknowledge his allegiance to the Lord
Paramount {g). It seems very obvious, from the envimerations in the Record,
that there lived but few considerable landholders in West-Lothian during
those troublous times.

The assumptions of the Lord Paramount ended in the war of 1296. Edward L
in July 1298, encamped on the Almond, and fixed his quarters at Temple-
liston, where his army mutinied (6). On the 21st of July, the night before
the battle of Falkirk, Edward encamped on the heath, lying eastward of Lin-
lithgow {i). Edward I. is said by Fordun, to have built a Pele at Linlithgow,
in 1300 [h). He certainly spent his Christmas of the year 1301 at Linlithgow,
as we know from Hemingford (Z). At the settlement of Scotland, in September
1305, it was ordered that Peter Luband should remain the keeper of Linlith-
gow castle {m). At length, during the autumn of 1313, the castle of Linlithgow

it were; the firms were mortgaged by Alexander III. to tlie King of Norway; after Alexander's demise,
the firms ran into arrear, which the Lord Paramount now commanded, by those writs, to be paid to
the king of Norwa}'.

(rf) Eym. ii. 471 ; and he swore fealty to Edward I. in 1296. Prynne, iii G(i2.

(«) lb. 658, 662. Those Douglases were the progenitors of Douglas of Lothian, who was himself
the ancestor of the Douglases. Earls of Morton. Archibald de Duglas of Duglas, who flourished under
Alexander II., left two sons, William and Andrew. William supported the principal house of Douglas
in Clydesdale, and Andrew was the root of a flourishing branch which sprung up in West-Lothian,
and at Lugton in Mid-Lothian. Andrew left two sons. William and Freskin, who swore fealty to
Edward I. in 1296, as above. Dougl. Peer., 488.

(/) Prynne, iii. 656. There were other tenants of the king, among whom was Serle de Dundas,
and Saer de Dundas, who also swore fealty. Id.

{g) lb. 658. {h) W. Hemingford, i. 161 ; Lord Hailes's An., i. 257.

(i) W. Hemingford, i. 162. (/,) L. xii. c. 1. (/) V. i. 196.

(m) Eyley's PI., 505. He appears to have remained in charge of Linlithgow castle, for the Edwards,
till it was taken by the Scots in 1313, as we know from the Rotuli Scotia; 66-111. It should seem
that the fortlet of Linlithgow was promiscuously called in the record, the Castle, and the Peic of Lin-
Hthgow. Eot. Scotiae, 105-<)-ll. The last order for victualling it is dated the 4th of Februaiy
1312-13. Id. This order evinces that the Scottish historians are mistaken in assei-ting that it was
taken in 1311. Lord Hailes's An., ii. 32. From the Scala Cronica, we know that Piers Luband was
a Gaseoyne knight who suffered for his tergiversation.

852 . An A C C 0 U N T [Cb. \1.— Linlithgowshire.

was takeu by the stratagem of William Biniioch, an enterprising peasant, who,
in cai-rying into it a load of hay, introduced eight resolute men, who over-
powered the guard (/i) ; and Robert Bruce, with his usual policy, ordered
this castle or pele to be dismantled (o).

Linlithgowshire continued to partake of the fortunes of those eventful times.
It enjoyed the quiet which the treaty of Northampton ensured it ; and it was
involved m the distractions of David II. 's infancy. The pretender, Edward
Baliol, on the 12th of June 1334, transferred the constabuhuy, the town, and
the castle of Linlithgow, to Edward III. (jt). He did not enjoy it without a
contest. In 1336, Lord Berkeley, commanding for Edwai'd III., was defeated
by the Scots at Blackburn, in West-Lothian (q). At length was David II.
i-estored to his own again; and in March 1360-9, by his ordinance, " De
quatuor Burgis," he declared that Lanark and Linlithgow should be two of those
burghs, while Berwick and Roxburgh were detained by his adversaries, the
English, for holding commercial courts (r).

Robert II. was the first of the Scottish kings who granted a charter to the
burgesses and community of Linlithgow, the fii-m of their town, and the
harbour of Blackness, paying yearly £5 sterling (s). Under the regent Albany,

(n) Such is Barboui's story, which history has adopted and tradition repeated. The family of
Binnimj in Linlithgowshire,, are studious to trace up their pedigree to the peasant Binnoch, the William
Tell of Scotland.

(o) The monks of Newbotle had a burgage in Linlithgow, near the Augustines. which, before the
taking of the town by the English, was worth yearly 46s. 8d. ; but was dilapidated and ruined by the
war so as to yield nothing. Chart. Newbotle, No. 1 Such were the devastations of that terrible war,
which, according to the significant expression of the monks, did not leave of their houses one stone
upon another.

(p) Eym., iv. 615. There is a grant by 'Edward III. in 1336, to John Swanland, of the keeping of
the hospital of Lynlithkou. Ayloffe's Cal , 162.

(9) Lord Hailes's An., ii, 193.

(r) MS. Col. in the Paper office, tian^-cribed into Robertson's Pari. Record. David II. gr;iiiied to
John Cairns the Peil of Linlithgow, he being obliged to build it for the king's coming. Roberts.
Index, 50. Thf ca-stle must have been small that could have been rebuilt, or indeed repaired, by such
a person for the king's I'esidence.

(«) Roberts. Index, 133, What is said by the interpolator of Fordun, 1. xiv. c. 36, that the States
met at Linlithi/oic, after the demiser of David II., and declared the Steu-art heir to the crown, is an
egregious fiction. For the crown had been entailed upon him by parliament, and under that entail
he was crowned on the 26th of March 1371, at Scone, MS. Col. Paper OflSce, transcribed into
Robertson's Index, In 1386, Robert II, granted to Sir William Douglas, who had married his
daughter Egidia, £300 sterling out of the great customs of Linlithg<nr, Edinburgh, Dundee, and
Aberdeen Hay's Vindication of Elizabeth More, 55, He granted pensions to a variety of persons

Sect. YL— Its Civil. History. '\ 0 p N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. S j:J

and James I., Linlithgow seems to have been unfortunate. The town was burnt
in 1411 ; and in 1424, the town, the palctce, and the nave of the church were
consumed by fire (t). James I. appears, however, never to have resided here,
though we are assured that some of his coins were minted in LinHthgow (»).
During the contests between the Earl of Douglas and Crichton, the chan-
cellor, the two Lothians were often wasted, as the several parties prevailed. In
1445, Crichton, halving assembled his followers, marched into West- Lothian,
when he carried fire and sword through the baronies of Abercorn, Blackness,
and Strathbrock, and drove away the horses, cattle, and sheep. When James IL
was married, in April 1449, he settled on Mary of Guelder, as her dower, amount-
ing to 10,000 crowns, the lordship of Linlithgow, with other lands (a"). During
this reign, this shire witnessed less agreeable scenes. In 1454. James II. sent
six thousand men, under the Earls of Orkney and Angus, to besiege Douglas's
Castle of Abercoi'n, which was at length taken by storm after every effort of
the Douglases to relieve it had failed {>/). Linlithgowshire was now for a while
quiet. When James III. married Margaret of Denmark, in September 1468,
he settled on her the palace of Linlithgow, with its territory, as her dower, in
case of his demise (z). The English fleet, which came into the Forth in 1481,
burnt the castle of Blackness, with a ship which lay under its protection (a).
Several of the rebellious acts of the nobles who dethroned James III. were
done within Linlithgowshire. In April 1488, they met him at Blackness,

out of the bunow-uiiuls or great customs of Linlithgow. Roberts. Index, 137-40, .'j-t-oS. Those
grants of Robert II. seem to show that Linlithgow had some trade during that uncommercial
age.

(t) Bower, 1. XV., c. 'I'd ; xvi., c. !(.

(ii) Cardonnel's Numis., 6. On the coins which were here minted there were engraved "Villa
de Liidtt/iu.' lb. 68 ; and, he adds, that this is the only time Linlithgow appears upon a
coin.

(x) Pink. Hist., i. 206, from the Treaty, MS. Harl. 4637.

(y) lb. 228-31., App. 486. The castle which had been already shaken by the warlike machines
during the siege, was levelled to the groimd. Its principal defenders were hanged for their treason in
defending the castle against the king ; the inferior warriors were dismissed. Id.

{:) lb. 95-197. The king with the Estates in parliament ratified the marriage-settlements of the
queen, comprehending the lordship of Linlithgow, with the palace, the lake, and park of Linlithgow,
with the great and small customs and firms of the burgh, with the fines and escheats of the several
courts of the jasticiary, the chamberlain, the sheriff, and baillies. the wards, and reliefs, and marriages
within the lordship of Linlithgow, with the patronages of the churches, with other estates. , Pari.
Eec, 227. Margaret died in February 1486-7. Those specifications show what were the several
sources of the local revenue of such a lordship,

(a) Leslie, 321.

4 5 p

854 AnACCOUNT [Oh. Xl.—Linlithjowshire.

where a skirmish took place, and he tried to conciliate them by the pacification
of Blackness (6). But this reconcilement did not continue long, as the insur-
gents did not so much wish for quiet as for pre-eminence. They placed the
infant son of the king at their head, proceeded with him to Linlithgow, and
marched thence to Stirling-field, where the mildest of kings was slain, on the
11th of June 1488.

The insurgents had now gained their object. They had dethroned the king,
and they placed the prince on his bloody throne. On the 8th of October 1488,
Linlithgowshire was delivered to the rule of Lord Hailes and Alexander Home,
two of the principal chiefs of tliat successful revolt (c). When James IV.
married the Lady Margaret, In 1503, he gave her in dower the whole lord-
hip of Linlithgow, with the palace, its jurisdiction, and privileges {d). In
1517, the peel of Linlithgow, which was probably but slightly kept, was
seized by Stirling and his followers, who had attempted to assassinate Mel-
drum on the road to Leith ; but they were speedily pursued by De la Bastie,
the regent's lieutenant, who assaulted the palace and seized the assassins (e).
Such were the savage mannei-s of a wretched age. The battle of Linlithgow
was struck, on the 4th of September 1526, with design to rescue James V. from
the domination of the Earl of Angus. The Earl of Lennox, the friend of James,
was slain, after quarter given, by James Hamilton. The place of that odious
deed was marked by a cairn, to which piety added many a stone, but which
improvement has removed (f). HamUtoa was rewarded by Angus with the
captaincy of the palace of Linlithgow {g).

But very diffeient scenes were soon acted here. After the festivities of the
king's marriage with Mary of Guise had been celebrated in Fife and Stirling,
he conducted her to Linlithgow. The queen, with the courteousness of her

(Zi) It is transcribed iuto tlie Pari. Eec, 339.

(c) Pari. Eec, 337. Sir William Knolls, the preceptor of Torpliichen. was then appointed in parlia-
ment to collect the king's casual revenues in Linlithgowshire. lb. 364.

(d) Eym., xiii. 63. On the 31st of May 1503, Patrick Hamilton, the sheriff of Linlithgow, gave her
seisin of the whole, and John Eamsay, the captain of the castle, was one of the witnesses of the act of
possession delivered. lb. 71-2

(«) Pitscottie, 235 ; and see Lyndsay's Poetical Works, 1806, ii. 262.

(/) Stat. Acco., xiv. 572.

((/) The parliament which Angus held in November 1526, confirmed to Hamilton the captaincy of
the palace, with many lands lying in Linlithgowshire. Pari. llec. 572. This Sir James Hamilton,
who became the favourite of James V., was afterwards convicted in parliament for attempting to
assassinate the king, both at the palace of Linlithgow and at Ilolyroodhouse. lb. 624. That guilty
person was immediately executed.

Sect. VI.— A*.' Civil Ilistonj.] Of N 0 R T H - B R I T A I N. 8.5.5

country, said she Juul never seen a more imncely palace (6). In this princely
palace she seems to have delighted to dwell. At Epiphany 1540, Sir David
Lindsay's Satire of the Three Estates was represented here before the king and
queen, the ladies of the court, and the lasses of Linlithgow, with the constituent
members of the several states (i). They were all no doubt delighted, accord-
ing to their several tastes. In this palace was Mary Stewart born, on the 7th
of December 1542 (k). Here she remained with her mother for many
months, where she was seen by Sadler, the English ambassador, and said by
him to have been a fine infant (/). During the i-esidence of both, the palace
of Linlithgow became the frequent place of political management (m). In the
subsequent year, the queen mother, fearing for the safety of her child, who
was of so much importance to herself and the state, collected an army, which
convoyed them from Linlithgow palace to Stirling castle, while the English
angels had filled every place with intrigue and treason (n). Under such
influences, a pai'liament assembled at Linlithgow, on the 1st of October 1545 ;
and again met here, after adjournments, on the 1st and I'Jth of December (o).
After the battle of Pinkie, in September 1547, the English admiral sailed with
his smaller ships to Blackness, where he took three, and burnt seven vessels,
which had hoped for safety from the castle (p). In 1552, a provincial council
of the clergy was held at Linlithgow, who attempted to reform themselves, as
well as others, though without much success ((/). A very difl'erent reformation
was eftected here in June 1559. The Earl of Argyle, Lord James Stewart,
and John Knox, came to Linlithgow, in their progress of reform, and demolished
the religious houses. In December 1559, they spoiled the Duke of Chatel-
herault's house of Kineil on the Fortli (r) ; and in February 1559-60, they
burnt the same house, in order to reform the duke, that he might reform
others (s). On the 23d of January, the same Lord James, who had risen by

(h) Pitscottie. 295 ; but tWs place must have been much improved by James V. before her
arri val.

(i) Sir W. Eure's Letter ; Bibl. Reg. 7, c. xvi. It was James V. who. in 1540, by a charter,
empowered the town of Linlithgow to choose a provost. (/!■) Lesley, 459.

(l) Pari. Rec, 649, contains the sense of parliament as to the residence of the two queens, either at
Linlithgow or Stirling castle.

(hj) Sir Ralph Sadler's Letters thioughout.

(«) Id. Keith, 40, shows that those English coins were very freely distributed.

(«) Pari. Rec, 683-89-90. In 1558, D'Oysel, the French general, is said to have been appointed
keeper of the palace of Linlithgow. Pitscottie, 364.

(^)) Patten, 80. (y) Lord Hailes's Hist. Memoiials, 37.

(r) The late Ed. of Sadler's Letters, i. 667. (s) lb. 701.

856 AnACCOUNT. [Ch. Yl.—Lintithgotcshire.

such reform to be llegent Murray, fell a sacrifice, on the streets of Linlithgow,
to the vengeance of Hamilton, who could not forgive the regent's insult of his
distracted wife. Elizabeth revenged the regent's fall ; and the English army
who invaded Scotland in 1570, on its return from destroying Hamilton, burnt
the Duke of Chatelherault's house in Linlithgow, his palace of Kineil, the
houses of Pardovan, and Byniiie, and Kincavel, with the chapel of Livingston.
'J'he parliament, during that distracted year, was proposed to be held in Lin-
lithgow ; but the Regent Lennox, marching thither in October 1570, pre-
vented the intended meeting. During those disastrous times the rents, both
of money and victual, of the lordship of Linlithgow, were appropriated, in
1584, for supporting Blackness castle, to which more importance than its
worth was annexed {t). In 1585, a doubtful parliament met in Linlitli-
gow (u). In 1587, Sir Lewis Bellenden, the Justice Clerk, obtained, from the
feebleness of James VI., a grant of the park and woods and keeping of
Linlithgow palace (x). In 1592, the parliament settled the barony and lands
of Linlithgow, with the palace, on Anne of Denmark, the wife of James VI. (y).
In December 15y6, the king found refuge in Linlithgow from the tumults of
Edinburgh (z). Both those towns, as they were equally dignified by royal
palaces, felt the degradation, and partook of the grief, resulting from the king's
accession to the English throne. In 1618, Linlithgow was entrusted by the
parliament with the keeping of the standard.s of dry measure, which, if we may

(t) Act of Pari.. .T:i. VI.. cli. 9. («) Binels Diary.

(x) Dougl. Baron., 63. from a charter in the Pub. Archives. Bellenden seems to have obtained a
confirmation of his title in 1.590.

(»/) Murray's Acts, 330. In a curious Report of the officers in the exchequer to King James, dated
the 7th December 1591, it is said, "the park and peel and loch of Linlithgow, we find disponit in fee
to the late Justice Clerk since the year 1581, for yearly payment of an hundred marks, to be
employed by him in repairing your highness's palace there, whereof he has likewise the heritable
keeping. We find the park and peel of Linlithgow to be both the Justice Clerk's heritage and her
majesty's conjoint fee." MS. Report in the Advocates Library. In 1597, an act of parliament
passed, declaring all grants and leases of the king's palaces, parks, meadows, etc., such as
the palace, the park, and coal of Linlithgow, to be of no avail. Pari, sv., Ja. VI., ch. 235. In
1600, that act was followed by a somewhat contradictory one, allowing the king's property and
castles to be let in fee-farm, with a declaration in favour of Lord Livingstone's right to the coals of
Bonnytouu, near Linlithgow, and the castle of Blackness. Pari. xvi.. Ja. V., ch. 8. We thus see that
the king had no one whose duty it w;ia to take care of his rights, and that even the queen s jointure
was unsafe.

(z) In 16-46, the parliament and the university sought refuge in Linlithgow from the plague. The
parliament sat in the palace.

Sect, yi.—lu Clml Hixtor;!.] 0 F N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N. 857

believe the late Lord Svvinton, are not accurately kept (a). Charles L, in 1633,
when he made his excursion from Edinburgh, visited Linlithgow. In June
1640, the parliament passed an act of ratification in favour of the burgh
of Linlithgow {h). Both those towns were equally involved in the miseries of
the grand rebellion and the scandal o? the Covenant; but Linlithgow alone has
tlie honour or the shame of having burnt, in 1662, tiie Solemn League and
Covenant, that wretched tissue of fanaticism and faction.

The first parliament of Charles IL, in January 1661, passed an act of ratifica-
tion in favour of the burgh of Linlithgow (c). This shire town ranks as
the sixth among the royal burghs of Scotland. Under the Union, it was
associated with the towns of Lanark, Selkirk, and Peebles, in the privilege of
sending a representative to the united parliament (t^). The sciiool of Linlithgow
has been taught by distinguished scholars. At the Refonnation, it was super-
intended by Ninian Winzet, the polemical antagonist of John Knox (e) ; at

(a) Lord Swinton's Treatise, 100, on the weights and measures of Scotland. In 1621. there was a
reference to the secret council concerning the taxation of the sheriffdom of Linlithgow. Unprinted
Act, 23d Pari. Ja. VI.

(b) Unprinted Acts, 2d Pari, of Charles I. The Marquis of Hamilton entered a protest against
this ratification, and the Earl of Dunfermline protested against the same ratification for Queen's
Feri'ii

(c) Unprinted Act. Another ratification passed in the subsequent year. In 1(JC9, the town of
Linlithgow entered a protest in parliament against the Duke and Duchess of Hamilton's ratifica-
tion. Act, 1st Sess. 2d Pari. Cha. II. We may see the relative value and extent of the three
Lot/nans, in the grant to the king of the convention of Estates, in lfi78 ; the several proportions being
as under :

The whole shires of Scotland were assessed - . . .

Edinburghshire -------.

Haddingtonshire ---..-.

Linlithgowshire -------.

Edinburgh town ----...

Haddington town ---.-.,

Linlithgow town - - - - -• .

(d) Act of Union; Stat. Ace, xiv. .548. Linlithgow, as a corporation, has a yearly revenue of
about £400 sterling. In 1722, it obtain-d a grant of parliament of a duty of two pennies Scots, that
is, one sixth of a penny sterling on every Scots pint of ale and beer which should be brewed for sale
within the liberties of the town, for paying its debts and promoting its improvements. Pub. Acts. 9th
Geo. 1. 20. The duty commenced on the 1st July 1723, and was to continue eleven years. Linlith-
gow has a weekly market on Friday, and six yearly fairs.

(e) In Keith's Appendix may be seen Winzet's Tractnt to the queen, pastors, and nobility ; his
second Tractot ; his third Tractat ; and also Winzet's Bo.ik of Ixxxiii. Questions. This learned scholar

4 5R

£60,133

3,183

2,782

1,169

4,000

216

204

858 A N A C C 0 U N T [Cb. \l.— Linlithgowshire.

the Revolution, the same school was instructed by James Kirkwood, who had
not the good fortune to please the town council of this corporate body, who
were not sufficiently aware that, " to teach a teacher ill beseemed them" (/).

In this shire there are other towns, though of less populousness and dignity.
The royal burgh of The Queen-tferry is of recent date, while its name is
old {g). As early at least as 1164, it was known by its present appellation.
The parish of this burgh was formed out of the ancient district of Dalmeny, in
1616. Queensferry, though it had long been a port, was not a burgh
in 1556, when a general tax was levied on the royal burghs. Its erection as
such was strenuously opposed by the jealousy of Linlithgow, which could only
be mollified by degrading concessions (li). The present revenue of this petty
corporation is only £40 ; but it has never been inhabited by many people,

was reformed, according to the fashion of Scotland, by sending some armed enthusiasts to seize him ;
but he found shelter and pi'ovision in Germany.

( /') The baiilies were dull and the scholar was petulant, so he was formally expelled ; and
a long law-suit ensued before the Court of Session. He published The Historij of the Twenty-seven
Gods of Linlithijow, which contains some curious anecdotes. He was sent for by the parliamentary
commissioners for colleges at the Revolution, on the motion of the Lord President Stair, and his
advice was taken about the best grammar for the Scottish schools. The Lord President asked
him what he thought of Despauter ? He answered, a very unfit grammar ; but, by some pains, it
might be made an excellent one. The Lord Crosrig desiring him to be more plain on that point,
Kirkwood said : My Lord Preses, if its superfuities were rescinded, the defects supplied, the
intrivavies cleared, the errors rectified, and the method amended, it might well pass for an excellent
grammar. The Lord President sent for him, and told him that it was the desire of the commissioners
that he should immediately reform Despauter as he had proposed, as they knew none fitter for
the task. He was thus induced to put hand to pen, and not without much labour, published Despauter,
as now revised. As Kirkwood's Grammar, this continued in the schools till it was superseded b)'
Euddiman's. The celebrated John Earl of Stair, the soldier and statesman, was taught at Kirkwood's
school in Linlithgow, and " tabled in his house."

(g) David I. granted to the abbey of Dunfermline, " passagium et navem de Inverkeithen.''
MS. Monast. Scotiae. The passage seems not to have been then denominated the (Queen's Fern/. It
was called Portuiu Regiiuv in a charter of Malcolm IV. He granted iu 1164, to the monks of
Scone, free passage portuiu Reginm for the abbot, the monks, and their men. Chart. Scone,
No. .5. In 1234, Pope Gregory confiimi'd to the abbey of Dunfermline, " Dimidium passagiae
Sanctse Maryarette Eeginse. ' MS. Monast. Scotiae. It was again granted to the abbey of
Dunfermline by Robert I. ; re^nanted bj' Robert III. ; and confirmed by .Tames II.. in 1450. Id. ;
Robertson's Index, 146. This passa^'e has since become private property, but not to tha public advan-
tage. An Act "for the improve, uent of the passage across the Foith, called the Queens Ferry,'' was
passed in the 49th Geo. III. ch. 83,

(/i) Stat. Acco., xiv. r).')8.

Sect Vl.—Its Civil J/istor;/.] 0 f N 0 R T H- B R I T A I N. 859

enriched by much commerce, or dignified by great events (i). Under the
Union, it has the privilege of choosing a representative, with the other burghs
of Stirling, Inverkeithing, Dunfermline and Culross. Borrowstouness is a
burgh of regality, and as a sea-port, contains industrious people, who employ
many ships ih). Bathgate is a burgh of barony, from early times, which
has seven yearly fairs, and has some internal traffic {I). Whitburn is a burgh
of barony ; and Broxbui'n and Blackburn are market towns, which have arisen
in recent times from the efforts of industry (m).

There are few memorials of hostile conflicts within this shire, subsequent to
E-oman times. It was the theatre no doubt, whereon the successive setttlers,
the Saxons, the British, and the Scots, established by warfare their various
pretensions {n). The sepnlclires which liave been discovered along the Almond,
may contain the remains of the warriors, who contended among those people, for
superiority or for settlement (o). Edward I. rested at Linlithgow, as he marched
to the battle of Falkirk. In 1443, the town of Broxburn was burnt by
James II., when he wasted the jiossessions of the rebel Douglas (p). In 1526, the
Earl of Angus defeated the Earl of Lennox at Linlithgow bridge, where Lennox's
cairn long distinguished the disastrous scene of his fall (q). The castles in
this shire, are connected with the men, and the manners of those warlike and
wretched times. The i^eel of Linlithgow is one of the oldest castles, as we
have seen ; the Eavis of Linlithgow were the hereditary keepers of the place
and the park (?■). Blackness castle which stands on a projecting promontory
into the Forth, in the parish of Carriden, was long a royal fortress ; it was one
of the king's castles during the reign of Charles II., whereof the Earl of Living-
ston was hereditary constable ; and it has remained one of the king's garrisons
even to the present times is). Dundas, as the family is old, must have

(i) Stat. Acco., xvii. 489.

(/i) lb., xviii. 428. In 1680, it was controverted whether this could be a port of entr}', in opposi-
tion to Bhickness, the port of Linlithgow. After a long discussion, Borrowstounness was declared to be
a port for shipping. Fountainhall, i., 81.

(/) Stat. Acco.. i. y.51-4. (m) lb., xvii. 300 ; vi. 545 : xx. 3.

(?i) Tradition states that towards the end of the Pictish kingdom, a battle was fought between the
Picts and Scots, near Bathcat, as perhaps the name seems to imply. Stat. Acco., xx., 16.

(o) A battle is siiid to have been fought on the Almond, between the Scots and Britons, in 993.
Macpherson's Illustrations, in vo. Anion.

(p) Antiq. Trans. Edin., 1 46.

{q) Dunlop's MS. Account of Battles ; Stat. Acco., xiv. 571.

(r) Sibbald's Lithgow, 16 ; Douglas Peer., 414.

(«) Sibbald's Lithgow, 16-21 ; Stat. Ace, i. 100.

860 A X A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Yl.—Unlithr/owMre.

had a castle of equal antiquity (<)• Barnbougle castle is also old, and is yet
inhabitable (u). Kinneil castle owes its origin and its enlargement to the
Hamiltons, who formerly lived here in baronial state, till the reformers ruined
their house (x). The peel of Livingston derived its distant rise from Living, who
lived under David L (y). At Newyearfield, in Livingston parish, is a square
tower, which seems to have been a baronial residence in the days of turmoil.
Some traces of the castle, which once secured the great family of Walter, the
Stewai-d of Scotland, who married Marjory Bruce, " the lass who brought
the sceptre to the Steward's house," may still be seen in the middle of a
morass near Bathgate (z). A.bercorn castle was built by the Earl of Douglas
on the site of the ancient monastery,neither of which can now be traced, amidst
ancient warfare and modern improvements (a). Niddrie castle, which once
stood in the parish of Kirkliston, is now in ruins. The baron of this castle was
of old the hereditary baillie of the ecclesiastical regality of Kirkliston (b). Meid-
hope was formerly "a fine tower-house," belonging to the Earl of Hopetoun (c).
Tartreven castle, in Linlithgow parish, has long been in ruins (d). Castlelyon,
which stood of old on the shore of the Forth, below Kinneil castle, is now over-
flowed by the Firth (e). Torphichen tower owes its rise to the knights of
St. John, during martial days, and its preservation in other times, to the
barons of Torphichen ( /). In Torphichen parish, near Lochcoat, there is the
I'uin of a castle, which still shows its baronial gloom and grandeur (g). The
ruins of West- Binny still evince that they have been the residence of a baron {h).
Mannerston castle also shows its former importance in its ruins (i). Bridge-
house castle was the ancient seat of the Earl of Linlithgow, and the baronial
mansion of the regality of Ogleface (k). Such are the mouldering memorials
of the personages who once domineered in Linlithgowshire : Such has lieen the
change of manners, that farmers reside where barons reigned.

Peers once predominated in this little shire (Z). The descendants of Living,
who flourished under David L, and acquired the name of Livingston, became

(0 Stat. Ace, i. 238 ; Sibbald's Litligow. 12. (h) lb.. 12. (.») Ilx. 18.

((/) G-ougli's Camclen, iii. 318 ; Dalrymple's Ool., 421.
{:) Stat. Acco., i. 354. (c) Gougli's Camden, iii. 318,

(i) Id. During David II.'s reign, Alexander Seton granted to Ade Forest two ploughs of land in
the town of Niddrie, in Linlitligow-iliire. Eobertson's Index, 57.

(g) Armstrong's map. (A) Li. (i) Id.

(k) Sibbald's Lithgow, 25.

(/) See the list of the principal lieiitors in Silibald's Lithgow.

Sect. VI.— /^« Civil History.'] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 861

peers in the eleventh transmission. It was Alexander, the seventh barun, who
was created Earl of Linlithgow in IGOO ; and it was James, the fourth Earl,
who, engaging in the rebellion of 1715, lost his estate and honours by attain-
der {m). Sir James Livingston, the second son of Alexander the Earl of Lin
lithgow, was created Lord Almon in 1633, and Earl of Callander in 1641 ;
but after a few descents, these titles, by failure of issue, became merged, in
1695, with the elder title of Linlithgow (n). Abercorn, which is noted for
the antiquity of its name and the earliness of its history, is also remarkable
for having given, in 1600, the title of earl to James Hamilton, the heir of
Claud, Lord Paisley ; and the earldom, after various fortunes and trans-
missions, has recently been expanded into the marquisate of Abercorn (o). At
the Reformation, Torphichen gave the title of baron to Sir James Sandilands,
Lord St. John of Jerusalem, in Scotland (p) ; and the vast estates of that
opvilent oi'der were, by the usual management of that period, converted into
temporal property. The Earl of Hopetoun is the most wealthy peer who has
now much connection with Linlithgowshire. Both the estates and the peerage
of this family may be traced up to Sir Thomas Hope, a lawyer, whose artifice
was equalled by his abilities ; who flourished under James VL and Charles I.,
and died in 1646. Charles Hope, his great-grandson, the hereditary sheriff
and parliamentary representative of Linlithgow, was created Earl of Hopetoun
in 1703 ((/).

This shire has not given many senators to the College of Justice. Sir James
Hope, the eldest son of Sir Thomas Hope, was appointed a senator by the
title of Craighall, in 1632 and 1641. Sir Thomas Hope, the second son of
the same great lawyer, was elevated to the same seat in 1641, by the title of
Lord Kerse ; and Sir James Hope, the fourth son of the same eminent father,
was appointed a senator in 1649, by the designation of Lord Hopetoun, who
was the ancestor of the earls of the same title (r). Sir Thomas Stirling of

(TO)Dougl. Peer., 409-14. («) lb., 11.5. (o) lb., 2.

(;0 lb., 670. {q) lb., 350.

(r) Douglas remarks, that while Sir Thomas Hope was Lord Advocate, tliree of his sons were
Lords of Session ; and as it was thought indecent that he should plead uncovered before them, he
was allowed the privilege, which every Lord Advocate has since enjoyed, of pleading with his hat
on. Dougl. Peerage, 349. The peerage-malser is, however, mistaken in supposing that Sir
Thomas Hope pleaded before three of his sons, for his fourth son, Lord Hopetoun, did not sit till
his father had been two years dead. It was rather tlie great talents, and still more the great weight,
of Sir Thomas Hope, which procured for him and his successors the privilege of pleading with their
hats on.

4 5Q

862 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Y.— Linlithgowshire.

Camden was appointed a senator of this College in 1661, by the name of Lord
Carriden, and sat till 1668 (s).

This shire produced, in 1704, that elegant man and ingenious poet, Wil-
liam Hamilton of Bangour, who died in 1754 (t). Wilkie, the ingenious
author of the Epigoniad, was born at Echlin in 1721 ; was educated at Dalmeny ;
and died at St. Andrews in 1772 {u). That eminent soldier and statesman,
John the Earl of Stair, dignified this shire by his residence, improved it by
his example, and in 1747, was buried in the kirk of New-Liston without
a memorial {x).

Connected with feudal times and barons brave, is the account which the
sherifts severally settled in the exchecjuer for the royal dues. In 1633, the
whole charge for Linlithgowshire against the sheriff was £2,392 13s. 2d.,
the discharge was £2,179 8s. Id. ; so the free money which was yearly paid
in was £213 5s. Id. Scots {y). In 1590, the whole revenue which King
James derived from Linlithgowshire was £184 15s. 6d. Scots [z). It is im-
possible to trace the history of the j^^opeiiy in this shire ; and it would not be
very exhilarating if it were possible. During the earliest times, the tribe
rather than the individual claimed the right to the district. In this polity, the
Romans, perhaps, did not make much change. Tho Saxons, who intruded
into this country after their departure, divided the lands among their chiefs
in commodious divisions. Under the Scots, a kind of mixed policy predomi-
nated ; the chief enjoyed the district during his life, with divisions and
subdivisions under him to his followers ; yet, after his death or forfeiture,
his district reverted to the clan, who could not be deprived of their property
in the soil. The Scoto-Saxon period brought with it a great change, which
was as new as it proved lasting. The king, in notion of law, was the owner
of all property, and the distributor of all jurisdiction. We see this theory in

(«) Lord Hailes's List of the Lords of Session.

(t) He died at Lyons, on the 25th of March 1754. Scots Mapr. of that year, 155.

(») Scots Mag., 582. (.t) Dougl. Peer., 640 ; Stat. Ace, x. 73.

((/) Of the whole rental which the sheriff accounted for, the lordship of Linlithgow was charged
jt2,179 8s. Id., the town of Linlithgow paid £52, the town of Queensferry £3, and other lordships
and lands £158 5s. Id. : but during several years the lordship of Linlithgow had not been accounted
for, as the whole sum was assigned to the earl for keeping the palace. Sir William Purvis's MS.
Account.

(r) There were, moreover, paid the king from Linlithgowshire, of wheat, 6 chalders, 5 bolls, 2 fir-
lots, 2 pecks; of bear, 6 cl' alders, 7 bolls, 1 firlot ; of oats, 6 chalders. 14 bolls, 1 firlot ; of capons,
16 ; and of poultry, fi dozen. MS. Account of King James's wliole Revenui", which was presented to
his consort on her ariival. and which is preserved in the Advocates Library.

Sect. VII.— /te Agriculture, etc.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 863

its practice reflected to us from the satisfactory evidence of the earUest charters.
In the grants of David I., we perceive him exercising ownership over 2)roperty,
and jurisdiction over persons, within this shire. Waldeve, the son of Cospatrick,
who granted the charter of Dundas, is the most ancient private proprietor
within Linhthgowshire of whom any record appears («). If we except Dundas
of Dundas, it may be doubted whether any of the present proprietors in this
shire can be traced back, through so many revokitions and forfeitures, to that
early age. From the commencement of the 18th century to the present there
have been many alterations of property, and still more changes of family, a
consideration whereof leaves the mind to muse on tlie vicissitudes of life (h).

§ vir. Of its Agriculture, Manufactures, and Trade.'\ It may be easily sup-
posed that the area of this shire has all the varieties of soil, from bad to good,
which can depress or invigorate the husbandry of any country. The subjoined
table will exhibit to the inquisitive inquirer more specific information, with regard
to all those intermixtures of surface, than the most elaborate description (c). The
coldest soil is chiefly in the south and south-western parts of this shire, which
have also the worst climate. In the same parish there are specimens of every
sort of soil. Within Dalmeny parish, in the north-eastern part of this shire,
there is what long experience has called perpetucd soil, which, without renova-
tion, continues through ages productive (d). Much of this shire, from its
northerly latitude, may be supposed to be chill ; yet, from the flatness of its
surface, its nearness to the Forth, and the prevalence of the south-west winds,
it is generally temperate, being neither very cold nor very sultry, and being
blessed with gentle showers, rather than deluged with violent rains. Owing to

(a) Charter of Dundas ; Diplom. Scotias, pi. 73 ; Dalrymple's Col., 381-2.
(i) See Sibbald's Linlithgow.

Of clay of a good quality, there are - - - - - - - 20,000

Clay on a cold bottom, - - - - .- . . 24,500

Loam, --.-...... 10,000

Light gravel and sand, ........ 10.000

Moors and high rocky land, - - - -- - - - 15,220

Mosses, ---.-.-... 1,700

Lakes, rivers, and waters, ........ 500

81,920

(d) Stat. Ace. i. 230.

864 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. VI.— Linlithgowshire.

all those causes, two thirds of this shire may be said to enjoy the second rate
climate within this part of our island (e).

The area of this shire, even during the Scoto-Saxon period of its history, was
covered with woods, which were extremely congenial to the state of husbandry
in that age ; consisting as much of pasturage as of cultivation [f). Near
Kinneil house, on the Forth, there is still a natural wood of seventy acres [g).
During many years the landowners have paid great attention to planting. On
every estate may be seen many acres of young plantations, and they are busy
in carrj'ing forward that most useful improvement, the planting of the moor-
lands upon the heights (/;). About one third part of the whole country is either
in woodlands, old pastures, or in artificial grasses, and there are rather more
than four fifths of the shire enclosed, by almost all the variety of fences which
ingenuity has contrived in a country abounding with stone (i).

David I. was the greatest farmer in Linlithgowshire. He had a grange at
Linlithgow towil, as we know from the charter of Hol3'rood, and here he
practised husbandry by his own proper men, though, perhaps, not with the
greatest knowledge of the theory of agriculture (^). Neither the skill nor the
success of the barons during that age could be much greater than the king's.
But agriculture could not be carried on during such times with much
amelioration. The cultivators were mostly all villeyns, who did not labour for
their own profit, but for the benefit of others. The great facility of every
agricultural operation, communications were in those times either wanting

(e) Agiicult. Survey, 7 ; and Wight's Present State of Husbandry in Scotland [1778], vol. iv., 474,
who, however, says, " that the climate of Linlithgow is not the most favourable for corn, by the quan-
tity of rain that frequently falls."

(/) The topography of this shire evinces that woodlands formerly existed in every part of this
county. Blaeu's Atlas Scotioe, No. 9-29 ; and Armstrong's Map of the Lothiaus. In the south-west
end of this shire large pieces of oak trees are often found in the mosses. Agricult. View, 33.

{g) Stat. Acco., xviii. 42.5. {h) Agricult. View, 30.

(i) Agricult. View, 14. Wight reported to the Ti-ustees of forfeited estates, in 1778, •• that much
had been done during the last twenty years, yet that a great part of this county remains in a
state of nature." Present State, 1778, iv., 474. To reconcile those apparent contradictions, we
must suppose what, indeed, is inferable from the Agricultural View of 1794. that there had been
much inclosure and other improvements during the twenty years which elapsed subsequent to the
Survey of Wight, who saw every one busy in acts of melioration : " All are alive," he adds, " and
struggling to excel."

(k) Them is still a farm at Linlithgow which Wight inspected, and is called the King's Field.
Report, iv. .t15. The King's Park at Linlithgow is also converted into a farm. Id. The charter of
Holyrood speaks of the number of sheep which died naturally, n circumstance this which supposes
that many were kept with less provision of winter food than the occasion required.

Sect. Yll.—Its Agriculture, etc.'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 865

or defective. Without the advantages of public roads, individuals who pos-
sessed property in distant districts were obliged to ask freedom of passage through
the neighbouring manors (Z). The monks of Newbotle, as we have just seen, in
communicating with Monkland, were obliged to travel along the natural opening
of the country, through the valley of Broxburn, by Bathgate, and this ancient
passage is the present site of the Bathgate road from Edinburgh to Glasgow,
through Linlithgowshire, which is the boast of Scotland, for the levelness of its
track and the firmness of its surface. The epoch of the first road law of Scotland
is 1555 (m). The epoch of the first turnpike road, which traversed Mid and
West Lothian, from Edinburgh to the Queensferry is 1751 {n). In the
subsequent year, a law was obtained for repairing the principal post road
through Linlithgowshire (o). Meantime, the i-eign of CJharles IL was the period,
in which the county roads and highways to market towns were placed, by
the Scottish parliament, under the sheriffs and justices (p). By all those means,
Linlithgowshire is at length accommodated with complete communications in
eveiy direction (5), and owing to the same means, agriculture was promoted by
the facility of conveyance and travel.

(I) The monks of Newbotle who had lands in Lanark, found it difBcult, owing to the want of
public roads, to pass and repass to and from their several granges, and they were obliged to obtain
from individuals permission to travel through their lands. In 12.53 Archibald, the master of the house
of Torphichen, granted to the monks of Newbotle, that they should pass freely through tlie lands of
Toiphichen " per illas vias quibns hactenus usi sunt." Chart. Newbotle, No. 220. In 1320 Thomas
de Bosco, the Lord of Ogilface, confirmed a charter of his father to the monks of Newbotle, giving
them " liberum transitum per terram meam de Ogilface per seipsos vel cum plaustris vecturis, et
animalibus, etc. in eundo et redeundo de terram suam de Dunpeldre apud Newbotle et retro qnoties-
cunque voluerint, etc." lb.. No. 221. Sir Reginald de Chen granted to the same monks '' liberum
transitum vie competentis et suflQcientis ad aysiamentum earundum per terram meam et baroniam de
Strathbrock extra seyctes et prata in divertendo de Newbotle ad terram eorum in valle de Clud, et
retro." lb., 222. In 1333 Walter, the Stewart of Scotland, granted to the same monks that they
might freely pass through his whole barony of Bathket with their carriages from their monastery of
Newbotle to their land, which is called Monkland. lb.. No. 224.

{m) Stair's Inst., 287.

(«) By 24 Geo. II., ch. 3.5, amended by 28 Geo. IL, eh. 3'J.

(o) 25 Geo. n., ch. 28, which was amended by 32 Geo. IL, ch. 55, and in 1753 the 26 Geo. IL,
ch. 81, empowered the repairing of the road by Livingston to Glasgow. Add to those the act 49 Geo.
III., oh. 38, for repairing the roads of this shire.

(7?) See the Statute Book of that reign. In 1681 the laird of Hopetoun was empowered to change
a highway at Winchburgh in West-Lothian. Unprinted Act. In 1696 an act passed for building a
bridge over the rivei- Avon, against which the town of Linlithgow entered a protest. Unprinted Act,
6 Sess., 1 Pari. William.

{q) Ainslie"s map of Scot. ; Agricult. View ; Stat. Acco., iv. 467.

866 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.— Linlithgowshire.

Throughout the Scoto-Saxon period, and for ages aftervvai'd, every manor
had its village ; and the tenants of both had common of pasturage, which
obstructed meUoration, while a general right could not be of much private
benefit (r). Lying under so many disadvantages, farms could not rent for
much, while lands were plenty and money was scarce (s). Every agricultural
practice which we have seen in actual existence, in the shires of Berwick,
Haddington, and Edinburgh, equally existed, during those times, in Linlith-
gowshire. Every manor had its mill, its kiln, its malthouse, and its brewery,
for the use of the village. The husbandmen used oxen in their ploughs and
waggons (t). The}' cultivated the same grain, they pastured the same beasts,
and they aimed at the same profits. The people of those times had their
fisheries and their salt-pans, and for fuel they used wood and peats and
coals (u). Yet was there a slow progress of melioration throughout the Scoto-
Saxon period, particularly in the i-eign of Alexander III., when peace existed,
improvements prevailed, and plenty abounded (v).

(r) Jolin de Strivelin confirmed to the hospital of Soltre, a toft and a croft in his manor of Ochil-
tree, with common of pasture for four cows, twelve ewes, with their lambs of one year old ; and also
one thrave of corn from every carucate of his lands, and of his men, wherever they might be on the
southern side of the Forth. Chart. Soltre, No. 27. John of Strivelin probably lived under Alexander
III. To that grant Galfred 2)repositus de Ochiltre was a witness.

(s) In 1306 the hospital of Soltre granted a lease to Matthew of Kinglass, in Carriden parish, of its
whole lands in Kinglass and in Philipstoun, within Abercorn parish, rendering for the same yearl)' toi
s/iil!ings. lb., No. 45.

(?) Even as low down as January 1549, when a fort was to be erected at luveresk, the privy council
ordained that every plough of eiyht oxen, between Linlithgow and Haddington, should furnish one
man, provided with pick, mattock, shule, and spade, to work thereat for six days ; and that each potch
plough should furnish two men. Keith's App., 57.

(^it) During the reign of William the Lion, William de Vetereponte granted to the monks of
Holyrood " totam decimam de carhonario meo de Carriden," Ln perpetual alms. Crawfurd's MS.
Extract from the Autograph. William de Vetereponte acquired from that king early in his reign the
manor of Carriden in West-Lotbian. Caledonia, i. 552. That grant, then, to the monks of Holyrood,
must have been made before the end of the 12th centur}', and of course, precedes the similar grant
of de Quincey to the monks of Newbotle, of the Colliery of Tranent, in the period from 1202 to 1218.
Coal was early worked in the king's manor of Linlithgow. In 1597 an act was passed by
parliament to protect the king's palace, park, and coals. Lord Livingston obtained a grant
of the coal of Bonnytoun, in the lordship of Linlithgow, before November 1600. Act, 8 Pari,
xii., Ja. VI.

(r) During the reign of Alexander III. the king's rents and profits within Linlithgowshire were
assigned to the Norwegian king, who had married his daughter Margaret, as we know, from the Eotiili
Scotice. This had no salutary effect on the pursuits of the people.

Sect. VII.— /<6' Agriculture, etc.] OfNOBTH-BEITAIN. 867

During the twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, the com-
mon division of lands in this shire were carucates, bovates, or oxgates (x).
In the charters of Charles II., the possessions in Linlithgowshire are described
by the ancient terms of pound-lands, mark, shilling, and penny-lands (y) ;
yet is the carucate or ploughgate the division which is still in use within this
shire, and it is by the ploughgate that the whole lands are assessed for the
making of the roads (2).

Whatever may have been the happy state of domestic afi'airs at the demise of
Alexander III., the rancorous war of seventy years which succeeded that sad
event plunged the whole country into an abyss of ruin (a). From the destruc-
tion of war and the depression of misrule, Linlithgowshire did not recover
even down to our own times. Domestic feuds were full as destructive as
foreign inroads (b). The whole intercourses of life were oppressive ; the strong
constantly overpowering the weak (c). Even the levying of rent, or the remov-
ing of tenants, was attended with prodigious waste ; as we might learn, indeed,

(x) The Ohartularies and Eobertson's Index. (y) MS. Col. of Charters.

(c) Agricult. View, 28 ; Stat. Acco., iv. 4fi7. There are G3 ploughgates in Torphichen parish.
Id. ; and there are 68 ploughgates in the parish of Bathgate. lb., i. 350. Each ploughgate contains
not less than 70 acres of land. The Tax Roll of the lands in every shire was, however, made up
according to parliamentary practice, the lands being valued in pounds shillings and pence. The T(uc
Hull of 1G13, upon which the assessments were laid, was thus made, and returned to the parliamentary
commissioners ; and it may gratify a reasonable curiosity to see from the Record the several totals of
the Tax Rolls of the three Lothians :

Linlithgowshire was leturned at _ . . . . £41)4 13 4

Edinburghshire - - . . . (521 0 0

Haddingtonshire - - - - -567114

(a) The charters which were written in those disastrous times are crowded with outcries of
devastation. The Chartulary of Newbotle speaks of the wars not having left one stone standing upon
another. In 1327 William, bishop of St. Andrews, granted to the monastery of Newbotle, "per
guerram oppress!," the church of Bathgate. Chart. Newbotle, 179. But the comparison of the
ancient extent of those good old times, with the new extent of David II. 's days, is the best proof of the
deterioration of the country in respect to its agriculture. Roberts. Index.

(V) In 1445, during i\ie feud between Orichton the chancellor and Earl Douglas, Crichton ravaged
the manor of Abercorn, belonging to Douglas, and among other waste he drove away a race
of mares that the Earl had brought from Flanders, and were fostered in the park of Abercorn.
Godscroft, 167. What improvements of stock could be made during such times and such
manners !

(c) June 1493 the tenants of Wester. Whitburn complained in parliament against Sir James
Livingston, for taking from them their cattle. Tlie Lords ordained Sir James to restore the oxen and
cows as good as they were, or pay the value. The value is specified, a cow and an ox, four marks,
three oxen, six marks. Pari. Rec, 377.

868 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. yi.—Ltnlithgoieshire.

from the Parliamentary Record. During the ancient regimen, the tenants of
churchmen Hved under indulgent landlords, who even afforded them personal
protection. The transfer of so many lands, at the Reformation, from the
spiritual to temporal lords, brought with it a terrible change "to the poor
connnons {d)." That transfer was grievously felt by the husbandmen during a
wasteful century of civil wars, as that ti'ansfer was not a small ingredient of the
moving causes which incited the grand rebellion. The Union and the abolition
of the heritable jurisdictions, are the two happiest events in the history of those
changes, which were either adverse or fortunate for agriculture.

It is not, indeed, easy to fix the real epoch of actual improvements in Lin-
lithgowshire. The year 1723, when the Society of Improvers was established,
may perhaps be deen)ed the true era. From this period a sort of enterprise
may be traced in every shire (e). In 1728, John Earl of Stair, now a states-
man out of place, came from the turmoils of public life to the quiet pursuits
of agriculture, at New-Liston in this shire. This able man at length intro-
duced new maxims of husbandry and novel modes of cultivation. It was he,
who first practised the horse-hoeing husbandry. It was he, who, in addition to
the improvements of Lucerne and Saint-foin, which were then uncommon
grasses in that country, cultivated turnips, cabbages, and carrots by the
plough, that answered all the ends of sunnner fallow, says Maxwell, the
agriculturalist {/). Charles, the first Earl of Hopetoun, followed the encourag-
ing example of that illustrious statesman, and even going beyond him, he

(rf) Old Sir Eichard Maitland, wlio witnessed that change, bestows a whole poem, " aganis
oppressioun of the commouns : "

'■ Sum commouns that hes bene weill stakit
•■ Underkirkmeii are now all urakit ;
" Sen that the teynd and the kirk-landis,
" Cam in grit temporale men's handis.

" Sic estortioun and taxatioun,

" Wes never sene into this natioun."
Such, then, were the terrible eflfects on the unprotected husbandmen, by that transfer of the lands and
their labourers from the indulgent clergy to the lay-impropriators !

(e) On the 8th of April 1725, one Higgens and his copartners, began to sell at Cuffabout,
near Borrowstounness, their manure, for improving ground, at one shilling a-bnshel. Caledonian
Mercury, No. 787. Though this project probably failed, yet is it an evidence of returning
enterprise.

(/) Select Transact, of the Society of Improvers. After John, Earl of Stair, left Kirkwood's
school at Linlithgow, he went to Leyden and spent much of his youth in the Low Countries.

Sect. Yll.—Its Agriculture, etc.;\ OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 869

released to his tenants, a thousand pounds of his rents, " in consideration of the
bad crop in 1740 ((/)." By this act of generosity he gave to the fanners
on his estates a thousand pounds of additional capital for the improvement of
husbandry. But they both died too soon to do all the good which they
intended (h). Neither the country nor the husbandmen were sufficiently pre-
pared to profit from their agricultural examples. Thirty years after those
two noble agriculturalists had ceased to instruct by their practice and to
encourage by their generosity, a race of projectors arose who went beyond
them in usefulness. Some practical farmers with clear heads, enterprising
hearts, and sufficient capital, undertook as a profession to rent farms and estates
with design to improve them, and then to relinquish them to other farmers for
an adequate profit (i). Such speculative farmers do more for the improvement
of a country that many nobles, who, as they farm for amusement, are too high
for the imitation of common husbandmen.

Meantime there was introduced into the Lothians " the practice of draining,
" inclosing, summer-fallowing, sowing flax, hemp, rape, turnip, and grass
" seeds ; of jjlanting cabbages and potatoes with the plougli in fields of great
" extent ; and there was adopted other such commendable husbandry (k)."
All this was said to have been done before the year 1743 ; and we may thus
perceive who were the earliest improvers in this shire, and to what extent
their improvements had been carried by rational management in the busy period
which succeeded the epoch of 1723.

The forming of turnpike roads by tolls, as we have seen, and the iinproving
of the cross roads by assessments, have enabled diligent husbandmen to carry
those beginnings of " commendable husbandry " to great perfection. Since the
days of Stair and Hopetoun this shire has been mostly all enclosed (/). The
implements of farming have been rendered more commodious, and the
threshing mills, which are said to have been lately invented, are allowed to be of
great advantage (»i). The number of draught cattle for the plough has been
lessened one-half Farm steadings are generally much improved during late

{(/) Select Transactions, Dedication,

(/() The Earl of Hopetoun died in 1742 ; and the Earl of Stair in 1747.

(i) Wight speaks of the practice of several such improvers in Linlithgowshire. Report, iv.

{k) Maxwell's Select Transactions, which were published in 1743.

(/) Agricultural View, 14.

(m) lb. 19. Yet it appears, from the Select Transactions of the Society of Improvers, 276. that Mr.
Michael Menzies, an advocate at Edinburgh, had invented a threshmj machine which was driven by
water, and which that society recommended to general use. So seldom is it that any thing new can
be found.

4- 5 R

870 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Yl.— Linlithgowshire.

times (u). This shire is possessed by thirty or forty landholders, whose yearly
incomes are from £200 to £6,000, besides some inferior holders of lands, who
enjoy small heritages, near Linlithgow and Borrowstounness. The extent of the
farms are from 50 to 300 acres ; the greater number whereof being from
70 acres to 200, and the leases are commonly for the space of 19 years;
though there are some instances of leases being extended to 57 years (x). The
town of Linlithgow has long enjoyed mills, which are profitable to the
burgh and advantageous to agriculture (y). This shire-town has a weekly
market for corn. Bathgate has also seven fairs a-year, which are also helpful
to husbandr}^ (2). [In 1887, there were under cultivation in Linlithgowshire
15,435 aci-es of corn crops; 6,255 acres of green crops; 19,130 acres of clover
and grasses under rotation ; 18,298 acres of permanent pasture ; 2 acres of flax,
and 249 acres fallow land. In the same year there were in the county 2,148
horses ; 10,705 cattle ; 19,336 sheep, and 1,527 pigs.]

Horticulture was probably introduced into this shire in early times. As
David I. had a castle here he must necessarily have had a garden, and where
the royal family resided a garden must always have been. Early in the reigu
of James VI., the practice of gardening became general in Linlithgowshire. In
1623, John Reit and Alexander Dean were convicted and executed, for
stealing herbs and roots and bee-hives, from the gardens of Barnbougle,
CraigiehaU, and Carlowrie (a). When John Ray came a botanizing to Linlithgow
in August 1661, he found " Bailie Stewart had nourished in his garden divers
exotic plants, more than one would have hoped to find in so northerly and cold
a country {h)."

Linlithgowshire seems never to have enjoyed the benefit of manufacture,
except domestic fabrics for family use. The linen which was once made
here is no more manufactured (c). The town of Linlithgow has, indeed, some
manufacture of white leather, which is, however, sent off" for further improve-
ment {(l). The shire town formerly enjoyed the exclusive traffic throughout
the whole country, from Cramond to the mouth of the Avon, when Blackness

(n) Agricult. View, 18-28. • (x) lb. 11-12.

(y) Stat. Aceo. xiv. 457-9. Jane Livingstone, the prioress of the nuns of Manuel, conveyed, in
1556, their mills upon the Avon, to the Corporation of Linlithgow. Keith's Eel. Houses, 282.

(?) As far back as 1594 there was an act of parliament in favour of the fair at Bathgate. Unprinted
Act. (a) Arnot's Crim. Trials, 305.

(b) Bay's Itinerary, 200 ; and he particularized " some such as he had not before seen.''

(c) In 1728, it appears to have manufactured for sak 6,.3o3 yaids, and 29,128 in 1729 ; in 1792,
it still manufactured 9,040 yards. But in 1801 and 1802, this shire had completely lost the manu-
facture of linen. Ofiicial Account.

{(l) Pennant, ii. 233 ; and a detail of the number of skins and hides tanned and tawed. Stat.
Acco. xiv. 552.

Sect. Yll.—rts A<jriculture, etc.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 871

was its port, and like other corporate bodies, struggled a while to preserve
its monopoly; but, in 1672, the parliament considering that many hands
and many purses make a rich trade and a wealthy people, declared that
burghs of regality and of baronjy^ were entitled to the same freedom of
trade as royal burghs (e). But whether Linlithgow was formerly a place
of considerable trade, opidence, and splendour, as we are told may well be
doubted though it must be allowed that considerable admits of degrees of
comparison (/). Salt is one of the earliest of the manufactures of this shire,
and is still one of the greatest [g). Lime is manufactured to a great extent for
domestic use, and formerly for foreign export (/i). Freestone is also wrought
to a considerable amount for both those purposes (?'). The traffic of coal, per-
haps, employs the greatest number of hands, except agriculture {h). There are
considerable distilleries and breweries, which enrich various parts of this shire,
as they are so intimately connected with its husbandry {I). The spinning of
cotton has reared a new village at Blackburn, in Livingston parish [m). The
Queen's Ferry has found the art of making the manufacture of soap and the
catching of herrings profitable to its enterprizing people {n). At Whitburn,
the influence of Glasgow is felt ; the industrious inhabitants being employed by
it ill flowering muslins in weaving, and in working cottons (o). Sucli, then, are
the various branches of manufacture which begin to spring up in this shire, while
it cannot boast of its trade or its shipping {p).

After the persevering struggles of many years, the custom-house district of
Borrowstounness was settled, in December 1713, in opposition to Blackness,
which was the earliest port, and the shipping place of the shire town (^q). The

(«) Fountainliall's Decisions, i. 81 ; and Sir Geo. Mackenzie's Pleadings, 134.

(/) Linlithgow town, however, enjoys the benefit of large breweries and distilleries : of tambour
factories, of bleaching and printing cottons, of shoes for export, and of snuff for domestic use. Stat.
Aoco., xiv. 552-56.

(y) Sibbald, 18-19. In 1498, Sir Patrick Hamilton was appointed the governor of the castle of
Blackness, with leave to build mlt-pans. Scotstarvit's Calendar.

(h) Stat. Acco., XX. 390. (i) lb., i. 237. (/.) lb., i. 98 ; xviii. 436.

(/) lb., iv 467, 556 ; xviii. 431 (m) lb., xx. 3. (n) lb., xvii. 489. (o) Id., 301.

(p) On the 6th of October, 1724, being the next day after the annual election of the magistrates of
Linlithgow, came on the election of a preses, for the society called " The neighbourhood of this Burgh,
for the Propagation of Trade; '' when John Bell, writer, was unanimously elected for the ensuing year.
Caledonian Mercury, No. 707.

(5') During the reign of William the Lion, William de Vetereponte granted to the monks of Holy-
rood, " decimum denarium de omnibus itavibus et batellis, in terra mea de Blackenes.'' Crawfurd's
MS. Note, from the Autograph. The shipping here have been often burnt by the English, as we
have seen.

872 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Yl.—LinHthgoti-shire.

poi't of BoiTOwstounness extends along the Forth, and upon the shore of Linlith-
gowshire, from Cramond to Higgen's-Nook, twenty miles ; and it comprehends
sixteen miles of the opposite coast (?•). Queensferry was undoubtedly
a port, as early as the i-eign of Alexander IV. (s). In 1656, Queensferry
possessed one vessel of eighteen tons. Before 1692, this creek had acquired
seven vessels, carrying in all 770 tons. They continued to increase ; and
Sibbald talks, magnificently, during the reign of Anne, that Queensferry
and Borrowstounness had six-and-thirty ships; when Glasgow, Stirling, and
Linlithgow carried on from thence, a gi-eat trade to Holland, Hamburg, and
the Baltic (i). There appear to have been registered in 1789, within the several
creeks of the port of Borrowstounness, 139 vessels bearing 11,910 tons (u). They
seem to have increased to 165 vessels in 1792. But the shipping of this j^oii;
appears to have somewhat decreased, before the year 1802, when Leith upon
the east, and Carron on the west of Borrowstounness, begam to gain an
obvious ascendency. We may form an accurate judgment, with regard as well
to the employment of those shipping as to the trade of this port, from the sub-
joined detail, as it appears in the Custom-house Registers :

Tears.

Foreign Trade. Coast Trade. Fishery. The Total.

Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons. Ships. Tons.

1,111

1,910

522

3.543

2,000

4,135

451

117

6,536

2.710

116

6,255

—

140

8,965

4,885

133

8,284

719

178

13,888

2,330

111

6,415

—

134

8,745

In 1760 -

1770 -

1780 -

1790 -

1800 -

Yet, whatever may have been the melioration of the agriculture of this shire,
the increase of its manufactories, the extension of its trade, and the progress of

(?•) A MS. Custom-house Detail. On the south side of the Forth, this port comprelieiids the creeks
of South Queensferry, Blackness, Avon water, Grangemouth, being the eastern entrance into the Forth,
and Clyde Canal, and Carronshore. On the north side of the Frith, this port comprehends the creeks
of Culross, Torry-burn, Crombie-point, Limekilns, Inverkeithing, North Queensferry, and St. David's
oswtle. Id.

(s) Chart. Scone, No. 5. Robert I. granted to the abbey of Dunfermline, Cocketam, cu7n nova magna
custuma, turn de burgis de Dunfermline, Kirckaldye, Musselburgh, et Passagio reginm. MS. Monast.
Scotiae.

(<) Sibbald's Linlithgcnv, 17. (u) MS. Eegist. of Shipping.

Sect. Vin.— /<s Ecclesiastical History.'] OFNOBTH-BRITAIN. 873

its shipping, its population seems not to have been much affected. In the whole
shire there were scarcely fifteen hundred more people during the year 1801,
than it contained in 1755. It is, however, consoling to consider that they are
more employed, more opulent, and more comfortable in their several situations,
whatever may be the vicissitudes of the world.

§ VIII. Of its Ecclesiastical History.'] Little has been transmitted with regard
to ecclesiastical notices in this shire. At the epoch of the union of the Picts
and Scots in 843, the bishopric of Lindisfarne extended to the Avon, perhaps
beyond it ; comprehending within its ample range the whole area of West-
Lothian (a). The monastery of Abercorn, within this county, had been settled
in a prior age as the venerable seat of the Pictish episcopate, with Trumwin for
its bishop (&).

The extinction of the Northumbrian monai'chy and the fall of its bishopric
seem to have left whatever churches existed under the authority of the bishop
of St. Andrews, whose authority appears to have been co-extensive with the
Scottish territories. At the era of record, we see him exercising his functions
over every district of the Lothians (c), and the Decanatus of Linlithgow con-
tained not only the churches of this shire, but even several parishes in Edinburgh
and Stirling shires {d). At Kirkliston, which was a town of regality, and the
seat of its coiurt, the bishop of St. Andrews had a sort of sovereignty under
the king's grant ; extending to the whole lands of the bishopric on the south
of the Forth. The Earl of Wintoun was long the heritable baillie of this
extensive i-eality. The Earl of Hopetoun, who succeeded him in this oflBce,
by purchase, was compensated for the loss of it when heritable jurisdictions
were happily abolished (e). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was erected

(rt) Smith's Bede, 1. iv. c. 26 ; App. ii. ; Angliii Sacra, i, 698.

(b) Simeon of Durham, 62 — 139 ; Hoveden, 418. (c) Smith's Bede, App. xx.

(d) Sibbald's Lithgow, 3-4 ; MS. Chart, of Arbroath for a detail of the churches in the
deanery of Linlithgow. The archdeaconry of Lothian as we know from the ancient Taratio, was of
old subdivided into three deaneries: 1st, The deanery of Linlithgow; 2d, The deanery of Lothian; and
3d, The deanery of the Merse. The archdeaconry extended at the epoch of that Taxatio, from the
Forth at Stirling on the north-west, to the Tweed as high as the influx of the Gala on the
south-east, and it comprehended within its ample bounds, the east half of Stirlingshire, the
whole of Linlithgowshire, Edinburgh, Haddington, and Bei-wickshire, and those parts of Eox-
burghshire which lay on the northern side of the Tweed. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under
James V., the archdeaconry of Lothian was rated at £20. Currie was the mansto, or seat of the arch-
deacon of Lothian.

(e) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 12-13 ; List of Claims and Compensations.

874 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Yl.—Lvilitkyou-shire.

in 1633, the churches of LiuHthgowshire were placed under his authority, with
a reservation, however, of the archbishop's regaUty and other temporal
rights {/). But his authority, after successive struggles, was in 1690
abolished for ever. In the town of Linlithgow there were a monastery of
Carmelites, and cue of Dominicans. The first was founded by the burgesses
in 1290, and consecrated to the Virgin (g). The origin of the Dominican con-
vent is more obscure, though the vestiges of their house may still be traced in
the eastern division of the town (h). In the vicinity of this town there was of
old an establishment of the Lazarif.es (i). This house seems to have fallen into
decay ; and was restored ;mder James I., as an hospitum for the entertainment
of pilgrims ; which was dedicated to Mary Magdalene, and was governed by a
23receptor Qc). There were several chaplainries and altarages about this town,
which had been founded by pious persons in pious times ; and which were all
dilapidated by interested men in a fanatical age (Z). There was another con-
vent of Carmelites near Queensferry, which Avas founded in 1130 by the
laird of Dundas, and consecrated to the Virgin. The remains of their house
may still be seen by antiquarian eyes, and their church, which is almost entire
may still be examined by those who delight to trace Gothic architecture (m).
In this shire, however, there were not many religious houses, though it contained
the seat of the Templars. The knights of St. John had their principal seat
at Torphichen. This order came into Scotland during the reigh of David I.,

(/) See the Charter of Erection in Keith's Bishops, 29.

{g) Spottiswoode, 505. The rising ground on the southern side of the town, whereon their convent
stood, is still called The Friars Brae ; and an adjacent spring is called The Friars Well. Stat.
Acco. xiv. 569.

(A) Id.

(i) Under Alexander II., John White, the son of John the grandson of Gilbert, gave to Liulph the
son of Liulph de Preston, a pertlcate of land, with a croft and part of a toft which he held " de
fratribus de Sancto Lazaro," in Linlithgow town, in burgage. Chart. Newbotle, 205.

(L-) Keith, 291 ; This hospitiiini stood on the eastern side of the town, on the base of an
eminence that is still called Pilgrim's Hill. One of the ancient fairs of Linlithgow is still named
Mary ifagdalens Fair. In 1426, James I. on his queen's recommendation, appointed Robert de
Lynton the preceptor of Mary Magdalen's hospital. Spottiswoode, 534. In 1528, James Knolls,
canon of Eoss, and preceptor of this house, granted with the consent of the archbishop of St. Andrews,
the whole lands which belonged to this establishment, to Sir James Hamilton of Finard, and this
grant was confirmed by James V. This favourite having plotted against the life of his sovereign, was
convicted and executed as we have seen.

(/) MS. Rec. of Donations.

(»i) It stands within Dalmeny paiish, though it be close to the burgh of Queensferry. Stat.
Acco. i. 238.

Sect. yill.—Its Ecclesiastical Uistoii/.} OpNORTH-BRITAIN. S7J

who endowed it with many lands, uncommon privileges, and valuable exemp--
tions (o), and these were all confirmed and enlarged by successive kings ;
and allowed by several popes. In July 1291, Alexaiidei', "prior hospitalis
Sancti Johannis Jerusalemitani, in Scotise," swore fealty to Edward I. in
the chapel of Edinburgh castle (p). In August 1296, Alexander de Wells,
" gardeyn de hospital de Saint John de Jerusalem, en Escose," swore fealty to
the same king (</). The gallant Wells was probably succeeded by Randulph
de Lindsay, who was preceptor vnder Robert I, (r). Sir Henry Livingston
was preceptor under James II. ; and died in 1463 : He was succeeded by
Sir Henry Knolls, who governed this order in Scotland during half a cen-
tury ; and was commonly called Lord St. John. He was appointed treasurer
by James III. in 1468 ; and was removed in 1470. He now joined the rebel-
lious faction, who pursued that unfortunate king to his unhappy end. He was
restored by the influence of the same faction, in 1488, to whom, there is
reason to believe, he lent money for accomplishing their treasonous purpose.
Knolls was amply repaid by the new rulers (s). After being much employed
by James IV., Knolls fell fighting by his side on Floddon-field. He was suc-
ceeded by Sir George Dundas in 1513, who was the school-fellow of Hector
Boece at Paris; and is praised for his learning. Under James V., Sir George
was succeeded as preceptor by Sir Walter Lindsay (t). Soon after his death,
he was sncceeded by Sir James Sandilands. In 1560 he joined the reformers ;

(o) MS. Monast. Scotise ; Chart. Newbotle, 242 ; and Chart. Aberdon, 21-27-34.

(p) Eym., ii. 572.

(q) Prynne, 656. This prior was slain in the battle of Falkirk, on the 22nd July 1298. Lord
Hailes' An., i. 261. Me;uitime, Edward I. had issued precepts to almost every sheriff in Scotland, to
restore the property of the knights of St. John. Eot. Scotise, 25, They seem to have had no estates
in Argyle, Bute, and Orkney.

()•) Eoberts Index, 11.

(s) He was appointed, in February 1489-90, to collect the king's revenues in Linlithgowshire. Pari.
Eec. 364. He also received many grants of much property. lb., 367. In October 1488, the rights
of this order were considered by the parliament. lb. 340.

(/) In February 1533-4, Sir Walter Lindsay, as the head of this order, granted to James
Dundas of Craigton, and Elizabeth Hamilton his wife, the lands of Nether-New-Liston. He
rose to be Justice-General of Scotland. He was remembered in Lindsay's Testament uf Sqwyer
Meldrum :

" The wise Sir Walter Lindsay they him call.
Lord of St. Johne, and knight of Torphichane,
By sea and land, a valliant capitane. "
Sir Walter died in 1538, as we may learn from the inscription on his tomb. Sibbald's Linlithgow, 25;
and Monteith's Theatre of Morality.

876 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.—LMithgoicshire.

forseeing that he might thereby obtain the remaining estates of his order as a
temporal barony ; and he obtained this desirable end by a grant from Queen
Mary in January 1563-4, on paying 10,000 crowns and yielding a rent of
500 marks for ever. Much was dilapidated, yet much remained of the
knights estates, when Sir James died as Lord Torphichen in 1618 (w). The
hospital of St. John at Torphichen, stood at a Uttle distance from the village
on the north-east. There only remain a square tower and the choir of the
ancient church, which still has gothic remains sufficient to gratify antiquarian
eyes (x).

The Reformation by casting down all those establishments, left the religious
house and the ecclesiastical districts in this shire, under the regimen of a
presbytery consisting of nineteen parishes, whereof Linlithgow is the seat ;
and this presbytery, with those of Edinburgh, Dalkeith, Haddington, Dunbar,
Peebles, and Biggar, form the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale (v).

Fable and Slbbald trace up the origin of Linlithgow town to King Achaius,
who is said to have erected a ci'oss here, which vulgar antiquaries have called
King Cay's Cross. On the promontory which projects into the middle of the
lake, there appears to have been erected, indeed, a chapel, even before the
accession of David I. Of old, every royal castle had its peculiar chapel. The
castle and the royal residence gave rise to a village in the royal demesne,
which required a church. The present parish of Linlithgow comprehends the
ancient parishes of Linlithgow and Binning, which were united after the
Reformation ; and upon the height near the royal palace, stands St. Michael's
church, whose statue yet remains upon the Steeple, which is very high and is
of excellent structure in the judgment of Sibbald (z). David I. granted to the

(w) In December 1618, James, Lord Torphichen, was sei-ved heir to James, his f;ither, in many
lands, with the privilege of a free chapel and chancery, with the advowsou of churches. Inquisit.
Speciales, vii. 108.

(x) Stat. Acco., iv. 469.

(y)' Duiing oue-and-twenty years, indeed, the churches of Linlithgowshire were placed under the rule
of a superintendent. This presbytery was not formed till some years afterward ; and it contains nine-
teen parishes, of which two are in Mid-Lothian, four in Stirlingshire, and the remaining thirteen in
Linlithgowshire. The ancient seal of this presbytery has been lately found, with the year 1583 en-
graved upon it. This curious and long-lost seal was made of brass, of a size somewhat larger than a
crown piece. Bound the edge is this inscription : " Sigillum Presbyterii Linlithcu.'' And in the
midst of some decorations it has these words of instruction : " Verbum autem Dei nostri stabit in
aeternum."' Stat. Acco., xiv. 570.

(^) Linlithgow, 15. One of the wells in the town bears the name of St. Michael ; and the

Sect. yill.—Its Ecdesiastical Histonj.'] 0 f N 0 R T H - B R I T A IN . 877

prior of St. Andrews the church of LinUthgow, with the chapel, and with their
lands both within and without the burgh (a). In the ancient Taxatio, there
is the ecdesia de Lynlythku, which was assessed at 120 marks. In Bagimont's
Roll, there is the vicaria de Lynlythgu, which is valued at £5 ; the rectory
being in the prior of St. Andrews. In the days of David II., there appears to
have been, in Linlithgow, a perpeiwttZ vicar, who was incidentally the king's
chaplain (h). There were several chaplainries erected within St. Michael's
church (c). There was, in ancient times, a chapel dedicated to St. Ninian at
the West Port of Linlithgow. In 1606, there was a general synod of the church
held at Linlithgow, and there was a conventus ecclesiasticus at the same
town, in July 1608 (d). [The Parish Church has 932 communicants : stipend,
£400. A Free Church (1873-4) has 253 members. Two U.P. Churches have 494
members. There are also II.C. and Congregational and Evangelical Union
Churches.]

Of old Binning parish laj'' eastward of Linlithgow, having its appropriate
church. In the ancient Taxatio, there is the ecdesia de Bynyn, in decanatti de
Linlithcu, which was assessed at ten marks. From those intimations we may
infer that this district formed, in those times, a distinct parish, which was
subsequently annexed to the parish of Linlithgow. The town had formerly
two ministers to perform this double duty ; but one of them was dismissed by
the magisti'ates, when it was foi'gotten that there were two parishes to be
served (e). Binning derived its name from the Gaelic Binn, or Bein, a hill,
and this appellation was no doubt applied to a neighbouring hillock ; and the

arms of Linlithgow exliibit liim with this inscription : " Vis Michaelis collocet nos in coelo.'' Stat.
Acco., xiv. 567. James V. erected a throne and twelve stalls in this church for himself and the kniyhts
of the Thistle. lb. 568.

(a) Reg. of St. Andrews, and Crawfurd's MS. Collections, 437. In 1477, there was an agi-ee-
ment between John, the prior of St. Andrews, and the corporation of Linlithgow, about the
building and upholding the quire of the church of Linlithgow. MS. Chart, in the Adv.
Library.

(A) In 1363, David II. granted to Ade, the perpetual vicar of Lynlithcn, the king's chaplain,
£10 Sterling yearly, out of the i-oyal customs of that burgh during the life of the vicar. Regist,
David II. lib. 72. In a charter of David the bishop of St. Andrews, 1240 a.d.. he reserved the
dues of the vicar of Linlithcu, who performed the service, according to the taxation of William his
predecessor. Charters in Harl. Library. John Laing the vicar of Linlithgow rose in 1474
to be bishop of Glasgow. George Crichton the vicar of Linlithgow became abbot of Holyrood in
1500, and bishop of Dunkeld in 1522. His .attachment to his old vicarage induced him to erect on
the chancel a durable roof, which is adorned with the arms of the see of Dunkeld, and with the initials
of his name. He died in January 1543-4. (c) MS. Donations ; Wight on Elections, 465.

{d) Spottiswoode's Church Hist., 500-5.

(e) There are now two seceding churches in Linlithgow ; a Burger and an Antiburger. Stat. Acco.,
six. 576.

4 5 S

878 An A C C 0 U N T [Cb. W.—Linlithrjowshire.

diminutive oi Bein is Bein-an, a little hill. In October 1495, the lords auditors
in parliament heard the suit of the executor of the parson of Bennin, claiming
the tithes and other dues of the church of Bennin {/). In the 12th and
13th century, the manor of Bynyn belonged to the family of Lindsay.
Before the year 1195, William de Lindsay granted to the monks of Cambus-
kenneth a carucate of land in the manor of Bynyn (g). In the reign of
James VI., the barony of Binning was acquired by Sir Thomas Hamilton, who
was created Lord Binning and Earl of Haddington (b). After the Reformation,
the parish of Binning was annexed to that of Linlithgow. In 1633, the minister
of Linlithgow was constituted one of the prebendaries of Edinburgh diocese.
In 1635, the advowson of the church of Linlithgow, which had belonged to the
priors of St. Andrews, with the other churches and lands of that priory, were
conferred on the archbishop of St. Andrews, as a compensation for the loss of
that part of his diocese that formed the bishopric of Edinburgh '{{). On the
abolition of episcopacy, in 1690, the patronage of the church of Linlithgow,
whose British name has been already explained, fell to the king (k).

Of the name of the parisli of Abercorn, nothing more than probable conjecture
can now be stated, saith the learned minister, with respect to its etymolog}'.
The church and village of Abercorn are situated upon an angular point,
which is sixty or eighty feet above the level of the Firth. About a hundred
yards below the church, the Cornie and Midhope burns unite, and after
running a hundred yards further, fall into the Forth. The minister thus
describes the location of the thing signified, without being able to etymologize
the name, which denotes the place ; but neither the history of the various settlers
here, nor the dictionaries of their several languages, were at hand. Aber cornie
is merely the confluence of the Cornie, in the British speech of the first settlers,
near the two confluences, which have been mentioned of the Cornie with the
Midhope, and both with tlie Forth {I). Daring the middle ages this place was

(/) Pari. Eec, 469. (g) Chart. Cambusken., 29.

(A) .In June 1637, Thomas, Earl of Haddington, and Lord Binning, was served heir to his father in
the barony of Binning, with the mills and ohurch-lands of Easter and Wester Binning, with the
pertinents. Inquisit. Speciales, xv. 140.

(i) Eeliq. Divi. AndreiE, 181.

(k) The church is ancient, and forms a specimen of Gothic architecture. Many of its ornaments were
destroyed at the Reformation. The statue of St. Michael escaped ; as on the top of the steeple it could
not be reached. For other particulars see the Statistical Account, xiv.

(I) Aber is the well-knowu British term which is so familiar in the topography of Wales and
of North-Britain for a coitjluence of waters, the junction of streams, the fall of a lesser river into a

Qsat.Nlll.^lt.'i Ecclesiastical Histoi-ij.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 879

called Abercui^nig, or rather Abercornie, as we may learn from Bede and
Ussher (m). In the successive charters of Ptobert I., David II., Robert II., and
other kings, this district is called the barony of Abercorn and of Abercorne (n).
Of the monastery vi^hich is mentioned by Bede, there is not a vestige, saith
Sibbald. This ancient monastery, the seat of the bishop of the Picts, seems to
have been early transferred to the bishopric of Dunkeld. In Bagimont's
Roll, among the churches idthout the bishopric, the vicaria de Abercorn was
valued at fifty-three shillings and four-pence. The churcli-lands of Abercorn,
which belonged to the bishops of Dunkeld, were, with the other lands which
they held on the south of the Forth, included in their barony of Aberlady.
The manor of Abercorn belonged as early as the reign of David I. to Robert
Avenel. His descendant, John Avenel, contended for the patronage of the
church of Abercorn with the bishop of Dunkeld, who prevailed. During the
reign of Alexander III., the heiress of Avenel carried the manor to Nicolas de
Graham of Dalkeith, whom she married ; and their descendant. Sir John
Graham, conveyed it to Sir William More ; and, in the reign Robert III., the
manor passed from David More to Archibald Earl of Douglas, and it was for-
feited by his descendant. Earl Douglas, in 1455 (o). In 1601, James VI. granted
this barony to James Hamilton, the eldest son of Claud, Lord Paisley. In
1603, he acquired a charter from the same king erecting Abercorn and other
lands into a free barony, and in 1606 he was created Earl of Abercorn,
and died in 1618 (p). This barony afterward passed from this family; and
in 1678 it was sold by Sir William Seton to John Hope, from whom it de-
scended to his son Charles, the Earl of Hopetoun, who acquired the patronage
of the church after the abolition of episcopacy, in 1690 [q). [The Parish Church
has 283 Communicants ; Stipend, £392. A Free Church has 99 members].

The name of the parish of Carriden, which is vulgarl}' pronounced Camn, is
certainly of Celtic origin, saith the learned minister (r). The site of the ancient

greater, or the confluence of a river into tlie sea. Owen's Diet. ; as Camden and UssLer had said
before him. The Cornie takes its rise about a mile above its junction, from a marsh}' piece of ground,
and runs through Lord Hopetoun's park ; but it is so narrow and feeble that you can scarcely perceive
it to be a burn. Its course is circular or bending, as we may see in the map of the Lothians. Now,
Cor-an signifies the bending water.

(m) Primordia, 602. (n) Robertson's Index.

(o) Robertson's Index, i. ; Chart. Inchcolm ; Regist. Dav. II., lib., i. 74 ; and Regist. Rob. II., Rot.
F., 16. (p) Dougl. Peer., 2.

(q) The church is ancient, and stands at the village of Abercorn, on the angle formed by the union
of the Cornie with the ilidhope burn. Stat. Acco., xx. 383-395.

(r) lb., i. 97.

figO An account [Ch. Vl.— Linlithgowshire.

church formed the eastei'n extremity of the Roman wall. Caer-Adin or Eden
signified, in the British language of Roman times, the fort on the wing, or
projection like a wing (s). Carriden house, near which stood the ancient
church, stands on the biTnk of a high and perpendicular bank of the Forth,
and at Caereden there are vestiges of a fort, saith Horsley (t). This place
was mentioned by Gildas, and it was called Caer-Eden during the middle
ages, as we know from Ussher (m). In the ancient Taxatio there is the
ecclesia de Karedyn, in decanatu de Linlithgow, which was rated at 25 marks (x).
The church of Carriden was bestowed by William de Vetereponte on the
monks of Holyrood in the twelfth century. It was confirmed to them by
successive bishops of St. Andrews, and pai'ticularly by David, the bishop of
the same see in 1240 (y). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was erected this
church was transferred to it with the other churches which belonged to that
monastery, and was disannexed from it when that episcopate was abolished (z).
[The Parish Church, erected in 1766, has 270 communicants; stipend £415].

The parish and the name of Borrowstounness [or Bo'ness] are both very
modern (a), and were of old known by the name of Kinneil. It has been
supposed by some that Kinneil was the Penuahel and Penueltun of Bede, and
Nennius, the head or end of the Roman wall. But the fact does not warrant the
supposition. Bede's Penuahel is only two miles from Abercorn, and Kinneil is
nearly seven miles from the same place. The ancient spelling of this kirk-
town was Kynell. In the charters of the 14th century the name is written
KeneUl and Kineill. There are other places in Scotland of the same name (6),
Those names are obviously Gaelic, though the etymon cannot be decisively
settled. Cm-aill, in the Gaelic, signifies the head or end of the steep bank.
Kineil-hou&e, in this parish, stands on the top of a bank fifty feet above the

(«) See Owen's Diet., in vo. Aden. The etymology above may be supported by the ancient form of
the name.

(«) Brit. Rom. 159. («) Primordia, 602.

(r) It is often mentioned as a barony, in the charters of David II., by the name of Cuniilcii and
Caredyn. Robertson's Index.

(y) Eeg. of St. Andrews.

(z) Keith, 33. After that abolition, the patronage of the church was acquired by the family of
Hamilton.

(o) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 17.

(b) Kinneil is the name of a parish in Forfarshire; and tliere is in Perthshire a place named Kinneil,
which in a charter of Robert I. is written Kinneill. Robert's. Index, 16.

Sect v.— Its Establishment as a Shire.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 881

level of the Forth (c). These coincidences seem to establish the real origin of
the name ot Kinneil. In the ancient Taxatio the chui'ch of Kvnell is rated at
25 marks. It was granted in the 12th century to the canons of Holyrood,
and it was confirmed to them by the successive diocesans, particularly by
David, the bishop of St. Andrews, in 1240 {d). It continued with them till
the Reformation dissolved such connections. The canons enjoyed the revenues
of the rectory, and the cure was served by the vicar. This barony was pro-
bably forfeited during the succession war. It was gi'anted by Robert I. to
Walter, the son of Gilbert, with the lands of Lethberd and Alcathie {e).
Robert III. granted the barony of Kinneil to James Hamilton (/) ; and with the
family of Hamilton it still continues. In 1623 this parish and church formed a
part of the episcopate of Edinburgh and followed it fate. The site of Borrow-
stounness upon a promontory or ness, which projects into the Forth in the
vicinity of the ancient burgh of Linlithgow, gave a name to a flourishing port.
In 1634, the inhabitants of Borrowstounness built a church for themselves ; and
they petitioned the pai'liament in 1649 to declai'e it a parish church. This
rising town during an active age, was, with a determinate district, erected into
a separate parish. In 1669, the Duke of Hamilton obtained an act of parlia-
ment for uniting this with the old parish of Kinneil, and declaring the church
of Borrowstounness to be the parish kirk of both the parishes as well as the
barony of Kinneil {g). Such are the changes which society in its progress is con-
stantly making, and which confound the weakness of ignorance and embarrass
the researches of learning. [The Parish Church, 900 members ; stipend £400.
A Free Church has 259 members, and a U. P. Church 283 members.]

The present parish of Dalmeny compi-ehends the ancient parishes of Dumame
and Aldcathie. Dalmenie is merely a corruption oi' Durnanie. In charters from
the 12th to the 17th century the name is written in the Latin form, Dumanyn,

(c) Stat. Acco., xviii. 425. The church of Kinneil in Forfarshire, stands on the end of a height,
which forms the bank of the Lunan water, and is about forty feet high. The Kinneil in Perthshire,
stands on the bank of the river Dochart, where it joins the Lochy.

(rf) Eeg. of St. Andrews. In 1512, John Stirlins; granted £10 sterling, yearly, from his lands of
Easter-Craikey, to a chaplain for performing divine services at one of the altars of Kinneil church.
MS. Donations. (e) Roberts. Index., 11. (f) lb., 139.

{g) Unprinted Act, 1669 ; Sibbald, 17 ; Stat. Ace. xviii. 423-437. The ruins of the old church of
Kinneil with its burying-ground are still to be seen, a little westward from Kinneil house, which was once
dignified by the residence of the Duke of Hamilton, and was ruined by the reformers, as we have seen.
The two parishes, with the old and new stipends, were now merged in one parish. In 1672, an act of
parliament was made for repairing the kirk of Borrowstounness. For other notices, see the Stat.
Ace. xviii.

882 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ .—Linlithgoivshire.

which changes in the vulgar speech to Dumanie. The Scottish termination of
(ie) or (y), was uniformly converted into (in) or (yii) by the Latin scribes of the
cliancery. Dumanie, in the Gaelic, is said to mean a hlach heath, of which,
probably, a great portion of its higher grounds once consisted (A). In the
ancient Taxatio there is the ecclesia de Dumanyn, in decanatu de Linlithcu,
which was valued at 50 marks (/). The name is Celtic, but not Gaelic {k),
and it is British, the original appellation which was imposed by the first
settlers a thousand years perhaps before the Scottish people advanced to
the Forth. The pristine name was Du-manan, signifying iu that descriptive
language the black or gloomy places or spots (/). The church of Dumanin
was very early granted to the monks of Jedburgh ; and this grant was con-
firmed by David, who was the bishop of St. Andrews from 1233 to 1253 (m).
In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood under James V., there is the vicaria de Dumany,
which is assessed at £2 13s. 4d. Dalmeny was a parsonage during the 12th
century (n). It continued to belong to the monks of Jedburgh till the Refor-
mation dissolved the ancient connection. The monks meantime enjoyed the
revenues of the rectory, while the cure was served by a vicar (o). Before that
epoch there were several altars in the church of Dalmeny, with appropriate
revenues {p). During that period the parsonage tithes were often by the
monks leased to the neighbouring country gentlemen, according to the frequent
practice of that penurious age {q).

(h) Stat. Acco., i. 227.

(i) In a cliarter of Robert I. it is called the barony of Dummanyn. Eobertson's Index ; and in
Macpherson's Illustrations the name is Duman3'n.

(k) In the Gaelic, Du-Monah signifies the black heath or moor.

(/) The change of the name appears not to have taken place till the 17th century. In an act of
parliament, 1597, it is written Duiimivj. In Font's Map of the Lothians it is Dunmemj.

(nt) Eeg. of St. Andrews,

(h) There is a charter of Waldeve, the Earl of Dunbar, from 1166 to 1182, to the monks of Dun-
fermline, which was witnessed by Helia de Dundas and Robert Avenel, the parson of Dumanie. MS.
Monast. Scotiae, 103. During the reign of William or Alexander 11., the church of this parish
was granted to the monks of Jedworth, and was confirmed by the diocesan, Reg. of St.
Andrews.

(o) William, the vicar of Dumany, swore fealty to Edward I., in August 1296, and received back his
estates in return for his submission. Prjmne, iii. 661 ; Rot. Scotiae, 25.

(;>) There was an altar dedicated in that church to St. Cuthbert, and another to St. Brigid. MS.
Roll of Small Benefices, at the Reformation,

(q) In May 1471, the lords auditors in parliament, assigned a day to the lairds of Dundas,
Barnbougle and Craigie, to prove that Robert, late Lord Boyd, had a sufiBcient lease from the

Sect. Yill.—Its Ecclesiastical Histoiy.] 0 f N 0 R T H- B R I T A I N. 883

The church and hamlet of Aldcathie appear to have borrowed their names
from the rivulet on which they stood ; Alcathie, in the Gaelic, signifying
tlie rivulet of the breach or defile. The church was but of little value of old.
In the ancient Taxatio it is rated at only four marks. It appears not to have
been taxed in Bagimont's Roll, as it seems to have belonged to some religious
house. After the Reformation, this parish, which was of small extent, was
annexed to Dalmeny ; and the church of Aldcathie was suffered to fall into
ruins. The antiquarian eyes of Sibbald saw it in a very ruinous state (r). The
ancient lords of the manor of Aldcathie seem to have forfeited their estate
during the succession war, and it was granted by Robert I. to Walter, the
son of Gilbert, as we have seen (s). The manor of Dahiieny appears to have
belonged to the Moubrays during the 13th century. It was forfeited, early in
the succession war. by Rodger Moubray, and Robert I. granted the manor to
Murdoch Menteith {t). It was, after various transmissions, acquired, dvu'ing
the reign of Charles II. by Archibald Primrose, who was created Viscount
Primrose in 1700, and Earl of Rosebery and Lord Dalmeny in 1703.
His descendant, the Earl of Rosebery, is now the proprietor of the parish
and patron of the church, which is very ancient, and is interesting to those
who delight in the study of architectural antiquities (u). [The Parish Church
has 337 communicants ; stipend, £380].

The parish of Queensferry is co-extensive with the limits of the burgh.
It was comprehended in the parish of Dalmeny, as we have seen, till the year
1636, when it was erected into a separate parish (x). There was, indeed, in
ancient times, saith Sibbald, a chapel of ease at this place, which had been
built by Dundas of Dundas, and which might still be traced from its ruins
by antiquarian search (y). The name is modern as well as the district. This
place was first distinguished, as we have perceived, in the charters of Mal-

abbot of Jedworth of the tithea of Dumany church. In August 1473, the lords auditors adjudged
that the lairds of Craigie and Dundas should pay to the abbot of Jedburgh 100 marks for the tithes of
Dumany during the bygone year. Pari. Eec, 162-180.

(r) Hist. Linlithgow, 20. But he mistakingly placed the ancient church in Abercorn parish, which
does interpose between them. The parliament of December 1597 passed an act with respect to
Dumany kirk. Unprinted Act.

(s) Roberts. Index, 11. After various transmissions, it passed, before the reign of Charles II., into
the hands of a gentleman named Monteith, and from him it passed to the Hopes ; and the Earl of
Hopetoun now claims a portion of the patronage as proprietor of Aldcathie ; but he has not yet made
good his claim. Stat. Aooo., i. 236. (t) Roberts. Index, 11.

(») Stat. Acoo., i. 235-6, for more particular details.

(.r) Stat. Acco., xvii. 489. (y) Sibbald's Lithgow, 11.

884 An ACCOUNT [Ch. VI.— Lin/ithgowshire.

colin IV., by the designation of Passagium Regince, from the frequent use of this
ferry by his great-grandmother, Margaret, tlie celebrated queen of Malcohu
Canmore. The opposite landing-place on the Forth was also called Queen's-
ferry, North Queensferry, and North Ferry (2), which must always be dis-
tinguished from this burgh and parish on the southern side of the Firth.
[The Parisli Church has 357 communicants'; stipend, £355. A U.P. Chuixh has
328 members].

The ancient name of the parish of Kirkliston was Temple-Liston, says the
minister, who adds, that Lio.ston, in the Gaelic, signifies an enclosure on the side
of a river (a). The ancient name of the district was Liston, and it was pro-
bably a mere compound of the British Llys, signifying a court, a hall, a manor-
place, to which some Saxon settler added tun, the notation of his dwelling. The
word kirk was prefixed to Liston during the 16th century, to distinguish the
kirk-town from other places within the parish of the same appellation of
Liston (6). The manor of Liston was granted, during the 12th century, to the
knights of the Tenple, from whom it acquired the name of Temple-Linton. Their
successors, the knights of St. John, enjoyed this manor till the Reformation,
though not without dilapidations (c). Sir James Sandilands, the chief of the
order of St. John, now acquired their whole estates, as a temporal lordship, as
we have seen. The church of Liston was early of great value, and in the
ancient Taxatio was rated at 70 marks. The church, with the village, the
mill, and much of the adjacent lands, -called the mains, or demesne, and kirk-
lands of Kirkliston, wei-e granted to the bishop of St. Andrews, though at what
time is uncertain ; but Liston was formed into the seat of the i-egal jurisdic-
tion, which the bishop and his successors acquired over their estates on the
southern side of the Forth (r/). Liston was of old a rectory (c). A perpetual

[z) Stat. Acco., xvii. 489 ; lb., x. y06 : Blaeii's Atlas, No. 9-10 ; Map of the Lothians.

(a) Stat. Acco., x. 68.

(4) Such as, Hall-Liston, Old-Liston, New-Liston, and Iliston, or Higk-Liston.

(c) Dundas of Craigton obtained New-Liston in 1543, whose descendants enjoyed it till the Revolu-
tion, when it was carried into the family of Dalr3-n:ple by Elizabeth, the daughter of Sir John
Dundas, who married the second Viscount of Stair. In 1703 he was created Earl of Stair, and, with
other titles, Lord New-Liston. And it was to New-Liston that the field marshal, Earl of Stair, like
another Cincinnatus, retired from wars alarms to agricultural pursuits and local improvements, which
ended only with his life, in 1747.

((/) Sibbald's Linlithgow, 12. The hall wherein the baillie of this jurisdiction held his courts was
standing when Sibbald wrote.

(e) In July ]29(), William de Kinghorn, the rector of Liston, swore fealty to Edward I., and
thereupon obtained a return of his property. Prynne, 650-62 ; Rot. Scotiae, 24. In 1358 and
1365, W. Houbert, or Hundebit, the rector of Liston, travelled into England, attended by six
horsemen. Rym., v. 105-463. In 1406 and 1409, Andrew de Hawick, a canon of Dunkeld,
was lector of Liston, secretary to the regent Albany, whose charters he witnessed. Roberts.
Index, 160.

Sect. Ylll—/ts Ecclesiastical Histori/.] Of N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. 885

vicarage appears to have been established for the cure of the church, while the
parsonage was enjoyed by the archbishops of St Andrew as a niensal benefice.
In 1593, the parliament passed an act for dissolving the parsonage and the
vicarage of Kirkliston (/). During the reign of James VI., Kirkliston, as be-
longing to the archbishop of St. Andrews, Avas attached to the presbytery of
Dunfermline, with which it continued till episcopacy was abolished in 1690 (g).
At that epoch, the patronage of the church of Kirkliston fell to the king. The
church, which is a very ancient building, stands at the kirk-town, upon a rising
ground, on the northern bank of the Almond river (h). [The Parish Church has
755 communicants; stipend, £473. A Free Church has 198 members.]

Whether the church of Ecclesmachan was dedicated to a saint of that name
is uncertain, saith the learned minister (i). Yet, as the name implies, the
church was certainly dedicated to St. Machan (k). The church of Ecclesmachan
appears to have been of old only of middling value, and in the ancient Taxatio
it is rated at 24 marks. It continued a rectory till the Reformation. In Bagi-
mont's Roll, as it stood under James V., the rectory of Inchmacham was taxed
at £6 13s. 4d. ; and the same rectory appears in the archbishop's Tax Roll
of 1547. Sir James Sandilands, the last jjreceptor of the knights of St. John,
claimed the patronage of this parish, though without absolute right, as we see
the church taxed in Bagimont's Roll. Whatever there may be in this, the lands
of Ecclesmachan, and the patronage of the church, were afterwards acquired by
the Hopes, who are now represented by the Earl of Hopetoun, who is proprietor
of one half of the parish. [The Parish Church has 1012 communicants ; stipend,
£399].

The parish of Uphall was formerly called Strathbroc, which is a Celtic word,
signifying the valley of brocks or badgers. The parish consists of a strath or
vale, through which runs Brox-burn (/). The old parish church was dedi-

(/) Unprinted Act.

(g) In a Roll of the Churches, within the diocese of St. Andrews, 1683, Kirkliston is mentioned as
being in the presbytery of Dunfermline. Reliq. Divi Andreae, 59.

(/i) The hamlet of Old Liston, and about a fourth of the parish, lie on the south-east of the Almond,
in Edinburghshire. (i) Stat. Acco., ii. 307.

(k) Dempster's Menologia ; Keith, 233. He flourished duriug the 9th century, and finished
his useful career on the 28th of September. Id. Eglwys, in the British, signifies a church, and
Eglais, in the Gaelic, equally signifies the same ; and both those Celtic terms have been corrupted,
by popular use, into Ecvles. There are several other churches in Scotland dedicated to St.
Machan, whence we may infer his popularity, arising from his usefulness. By some strange per-
version, the name of this parish was converted into Iiichinachan ; and so it is called in Font's Map of
the Lothians.

(/) Brox-burn, says Sibbald, Linlithgow, 14, runs through much of the valley of this name before
it falls into Almond water. There are other Bru.cbuvns in Scotland.
4 5 T

886 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Xl.—Linlithf/oivM-e.

cated to St. Nicholas (m). It stood on the northern side of the village of
Strathbroc, 700 yards north-east from the mansion-house of Kirk-hill. It
seems of old to have been of considerable value, and in the ancient Taxatio,
it is rated at 40 marks. The church was a rectory in early times (n). The
rectory of Strathbroc was annexed to the provostiy of Kirkheugh, and formed
one of the prebends of that establishment (o). When this pi-ovostry was an-
nexed by parhament to the archbishopric, the parsonage of Strathbroc was
reserved (p). The patronage of the rectory, after the dissolution of the pro-
vostry, appears to have been conferred on the proprietor of the lands. The
manor of Strathbroc was granted by David I. to Freshjn the Fleming, as we
know from an inspeximus charter of William the Lion (<y). Strathbroc was
inherited by the descendants of Freskyn till the reign of Alexander III., when
Mary the eldest daughter of Freskyn de Moray, carried the manor of Strath-
broc to her husband Reginald le Chene of Inverugie. It descended to their son
and grandson, and Reginald le Chene, the grandson, dying in 1350, left
two daughters, Mariot and Mary, who enjoyed his estates. Strathbroc was
inherited by Mariot, who in 13G6 settled the half of the barony of Strathbroc
on her son by her late husband John de Douglas, and in 1390, she resigned
the other half of the same barony to Andrew de Keith, one of her sons by her
second husband. After various transmissions, that part of the barony of
Strathbroc which comprehends the kirk-town, was acquired by that eminent
lawyer. Sir Lewis Stewart, who flourished under Charles I. ; and who trans-
mitted his estate to his son Sir James, whose daughter Catherine carried it
to her husband Henry, Lord Cardross. The great-grandson of this marriage,
the Eai'l of Buchan, now enjoys from them this estate with the patronage of
the church. During the I7th century, a new parish church was built a mile
higher up the vale, at a place called Uphall, whence the parish obtained its
present name (r). There appears to have been a chapel of old at Bangoui-, in

(m) The inscription upon the bell of the old church is, " Campanum Sancti Nicholai de Strath-
broke, 1441." This bell, which was removed from its ancient steeple to the new church at Uphall,
proves the dedication of the church to St. Nicholas. Trans. Antiq. Soe. Edin., 150-5.

{ii) In 1296, Ferchard, the parson of the church of Strathbroc. swore fealty to Edward I., and
obtained thereupon restitution of his rights. Eot. Scotise, 24. In Bagimont's Roll, it was taxed at
£10. And the same rectory appears in the archbishop's Tax Roll of 1547.

(o) In March 1594-5, the parson of Strathbroc signed a deed, as one of the prebendaries of Kirk-
heugh, with the provost. Reliq. Divi Andreas, 217.

(p) Unprinted Act, 1621.

{q) Fieskyn afterward acquired, from David I., various lands in Moray, and he thus became the un-
questionable progenitor of the Morays and Sutherlands, who both trace their pedigrees to the same source.

()•) In 1524, Archdeacon Dingwall granted to the church of Strathbroc a mansion and yard, called
the principal mansion of Strathbroc-Wester, with four acres of land, and six acres, called Seiterland,

Sect. VIIL— fc Ecclesiastical History.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B B I T A I N . S87

this parish. This estate was long the inheritance of the Hamiltons, and it was
dignified, at length, by the birth of the elegant poet Hamilton of Bangour. [The
Parish Church has 535 communicants ; stipend, £453. A Chapel of Ease at
Broxburn has 235 commnnicants. A Free Church at Broxburn has 435 mem-
bers, and a U.P. Church at the same place has 262 members. There is also a
B.C. Church at Broxburn.]

The name of the parish of Torphichen is said to signify ten hills. A range of
hills, having so many particular tops, lie in the vicinity of the village of Tor-
phichen (s) ; but there is a mount having a fine prospect, called ToriMchen
hill, in the southern parts of Edinburghshire (0. The old form of the name is
Torfechin and Torjjchen. The Celtic word seems to be most naturally derived
from the Gaelic Torfeachan, signifying the mount having a good view, or
prosyect hill. The village and church stand on an elevated terrace, which
commands a beautiful view ; and they are at the base of several small tors or
hills, which command extensive prospects of the Forth, and of the countries
on either side of that firth. Torphichen was the great seat of the knights of
St. John in Scotland ; and it furnished their last preceptor, Sir James Sandi-
lands, with the title of Lord Torphichen, to whom it was granted as a temjjoral
lordship in 1563-4. The chapel appeareth to be old, says Sibbald (w) ; and
the church of Torphichen does not exist in the ancient Taxatio, being
exempted from assessments, us the peculiar of those knights of Jerusalem, whose
last preceptor has long enjoyed their estates, and is now the patron of the
church. [The Parish Church, erected in 1756, has 241 communicants; stipend,
£204. A Free Church has 157 members, and a Free Church mission at Black-
ridge has 71 members].

The parish of Bathgate had once the honour of being a sherifidom, and has
been long dignified by the location of many gentlemen's seats within it. In the
charters of the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, the name of this place is
written Bathhet, Bathet, Bathkat, and Bathcat. The name Is obviously
Celtic, but the etymology Is difficult. Bad-cad In the Gaelic, would signify
the high bush or clump of wood ; Bad-caid would mean the bush or clump
on the summit ; and Bad-coed, Bad-cat, would convey the idea of a bush of
wood. It seems Impossible to fix the meaning of the name which has been
corrupted, on any satisfactoiy principle. The church of old appears to have
been of middling value. In the ancient Taxatio of the churches in decanatu de
LInllthcu, there is the ecclesia de Bathket, which was assessed at 30 marks (aj).
Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Holyrood the church of Batket, with the
land, which was set out by Galfrid de Malleville and Uchtred, the sheriff" of

and also an acre, called the Tenand-land, lying in the barony of Strathbroc. This donation was con-
firmed by a charter of James V. MS. Donations.

(s) Stat. Acco., iv. 465. (t) Map of the Lothians. (") Linlithgou-, 24.

(a) Bath is a very frequent prefix to the names of places in Scotland.

888 AnACCOUNT [Ch. VL—LMithgows/nre.

Linlithcn (y). Kobert, the diocesan, who died about 1159, confirmed to those
monks the church of Bathgate, with a carucate of land, and the tithes and
pertinents (2). During Robert I.'s reign, the church of Bathgate and its titlies
lands, and pertinents, were transferred by the abbot and monks of Holyrood,
to the abbot and monks of Newbotle, in satisfaction of a long arrear of rent
which was then due, for some salt-works and estates in the Carse of Callander ;
and this interested ti'ansfer of difficult times was confirmed by the diocesan bishop
Landels in 1327 (a). The monks of Newbotle now enjoyed the church of Bath-
gate till the lieformation, the cure being served by a vicar. Since the Befor-
mation, the patronage of the church has been enjoyed generally by the pro-
prietor of the estate. The church was built in 1739, within the ancient town of
Bathgate, and here also have the seceding Burghers a meeting-house, though
they are not veiy numerous. [The Parish Church, rebuilt in 1882, has 954
communicants ; stipend, £346. A quoad sacra church at Armadale has 332 com-
municants. There are also two Free Churches, (590 members), U.P. (176
members), Evangelical Union, Wesleyan Methodist, and B.C. churches].

As to the name of the pai'ish of Livingston, the learned minister says he will
not offer a conjecture (6). The name was originally Levings-tun, the ton or
dwelling-place of Leving, who lived here as early perhaps as the age of
Alexander I. In a charter of Bobert the bishop of St. Andrews, confirming
David I.'s grant to the monks of Holyrood, Thurstanus filius Levingi is a wit-
ness (t). The jjecl of Livingston still remains the undoubted memorial of a
baronial strength ; having high ramparts, with deep ditches which are full of
water (d). The church is a little way to the west of it ; and half a mile further
west is the town of Livingston (e). Livingston parish was formerly of greut
extent. It comprehended the present parishes of Livingston and Whitburn ;
the last, containing nearly two-thirds of the ancient parish, was disjoined and
made a separate parish in 1730. The church of Livingston appears to have
been of old only of middling value, and in the ancient Taxatio it was rated
at 25 marks (/). The monks of Holyrood enjoyed the church of Livingston
till the Beformation dissolved such connections ; and the cure was served by a
vicar [g). After the Beformation, the patronage of the church appears to have

(jl) Chart. Newbotle, 150. The laud thus laid off was merely a carucate, or plough of land.

(z) lb., 160. (o) lb., 179. {h) Stat. Acco., xs. 12.

(c) Sir J. Dahymple's Col., 421. Sir James says, the original charter Thurstanii filii Leviiigt is
yet to be seen, whereby he granted to the monks of Holyrood " ecclesiam de I/evingestune '' [Living-
stun]. And he adds that Thurstan and Living were the predecessors of the Livingstons, and gave
their name to the land, and to the surname of Livingston of that ilk. lb., 421. Dougl. Peerage.
409-10. (</) Sibbald's Lithgow, 21. (e) Id.

(/) In Bagimoni's Eoll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Livingston was taxed £2 13s 4d.

(</) In 1488, Alexander Curror, the vicar of Livingston, granted a perpetual annuity of
20 marks Scots to the Trinity altar in St. Andrews church, near the castle of Edinburgh. Maitl.
Edin., 206.

Sect. VIII. — Its Ecclesiastical Histoiij.'] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 889

been transferred to Dundas of Dundas, who obtained a parliamentary ratifica-
tion of it in 1G12 {h). The jJarish church and manse, which stand on a dry
mount in a curve of the river Ahiiond, are modern and convenient (i). [The
Church was repaired in 1837, and has 264 communicants ; stipend, £232. A
Free Church has 87 members.]

Whitburn, as we have seen, was of old a large portion of the parish of Living-
ston, till it was separated in 1730, and formed into a new parish, the most mo-
dern of any in Linlithgowshire {Ic). The learned minister supposes that it took
its name of Whitburn, from the settlement here of many families of the name of
White (I) ; yet was it obviously named Whiteburn, in contradistinction to Black-
burn, which, on the eastward', runs at no great distance. For the purpose of
erecting the church of Whitburn, money was raised by subscription throughout
Scotland. So much more was thus raised, as to buy land, which rents for £lOO
sterling yearly, and which forms much of the stipend. To this was added
£28 6s. 8d. from the teinds of the parish, by a decree of the commissioners for
plantation of kirks. A contest immediately ensued for the patronage of the
church thus newly erected, the patron of the old claiming the patronage of
the new, and on an appeal, the House of Lords decided in favour of the old
patron of Livingston parish. This decision, however consonant to law, gave
such disgust to the parishioners of Whitburn, that two-thirds of them seceded
from the Established Church ; and there are now in Whitburn two seced-
ing congregations ; the one of Bui'ghers, and the other of Antiburghers (vi).
[Established Churches at Whitburn and Fauldhouse, have 710 communicants,
a Free Church has 128, and a U.P. Church 415 members.]

To the foregoing notices of ecclesiastical history, there is here subjoined, as
an useful supplement, a Tabular State of the several parishes in Linlithgow-
shire ; yet it may be proper to remember that a fourth part of Kirkliston
parish, lying on the eastern side of Almond river, is in Edinburghshire. The
stipends of all the pai-ishes in this shire, except Torphichen, Queensferry,
and Whitburn, have been lately augmented. Li 1755, Linlithgow had two
m.inisters, whose stipends were, for the first, £84 7s. lid. ; and for the second,
£55 Us. Id. In forming the estimate of all those stipends, the value of the
glebes are included, but not the value of the manses ; and the victual, which
forms so much of the stipends, was valued, according to an average of the fier
prices of the middling sorts of victual in this shire, during the seven years
ending with 1795 («).

{h) Unprinted Act. [i) Stat. Acco., xx. 13. {k) lb., xvii. 302.

{I) Stat. Acco., xvii. 298. (m) lb., xviii. 302-3.

{n) The Linlithgow boll of wheat contains 4 bushels 10 pints, and 6,7 cubic inches ; of barley and
oats, 6 bushels 3 pints. 25.5 cubic inches, English standard measure ; and the boll of meal is 8 stone,
or ] 28 pounds Peots Troy. The wheat was valued at 25s., the barley at 18s. O^d.. the oats at 14.s. 2d.,
and the oatmeal at ICs. 2d., all per boll.

890

A N A C C 0 U N T

[Ch . VI. — Liiiltlht/oivshire.

The Tabular State.

Extent Inhabitants.

Parishes. in

Acres. 1755. 1801. 1881.

Churches.

S (^ o &
fa ti e4 H

Stipends.

1755.

1798.

Patrons.

Valuation.

1887

■88.

34,081

19,491

21,441

9,402

2 10

44,968

9 10

27,370

11,887

23, .322 14

10,619

11,989

49,772

6,068 16

271,183 17

Linlithgow,

Dahneny,

Kirkliston,

Carriden,

Bathgate,

Queensferry, -

Borrowstounness,

Abercom,

Whitbnm,

Torphichem, •

Livingston,

Uphall, -

Ecclesmachan,

11,603

6,797
7,716i
3, 309 J

10,887i

4,277J

5,265

9,807S

9,956i

5,391

4,5611

2,647A

3,296

1,103

1,070

1,164

1,594

451

2,668

1,037

1,121

1,295

598

690

351

3,596

765

1,206

1,504

2,513

454

2,790

814

1,537

1,028

551

786

303

5,G19

1,643
2,580
1,985
9,450
1,966
6,080

865
6,326
1,526
1,484
4,812

278

1 1

_ _ _ 88 16 0

_ _ _ 75 15 0

1 1 1 73 8 11

- — — 60 16 3

- — — 85 13 4

- — — 74 17 11
49 14 7
64 11 9
68 17 9
67 19 7
64 U 1

1 — —

1 1 —

^ j^ ^} j 193 10 5 The King.

73 4 2 149 12 7 The Earl of Rosebery.

162 4 3 The King.

160 6 8 The Duke of Hamilton.
141 4 1 The Earl of Hopetoun.
108 3 5 The Magistrates.

161 1 10 The Duke of Hamilton.
178 6 8 The Earl of Hopetoun.
133 6 8 Thomas Gordon.

93 13 3 Lord Torphichen.

143 18 0 Cuningham of Livingstou.

128 12 8 TUe Earl of Buohan.

123 1 4 The Earl of Hopetoun.

Totals,

16 11 7 3 2 1 985 15 4 1,877 1 10

Beet I.— Its Name.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN 891

CHAP. VII.

Of Peebles-shire.

^ I. Of its Name.l The appellation of this county is obviously derived from
the Celtic name of the shire-town. In ancient records, the old word is written
Peblis or Pebles (o). The first British settlers here no doubt imposed this
name, which, in the British Pebyll, is the same in sense as the Saxon
Sliiels, signifying moveable habitations, being merely the plural of Pabell ;
and Pebyllias means a place where tents or movable habitations are
placed (6). It is, however, probable that the (s) final in this name is the
English plural termination, which has been added by colloquial corrup-
tion to the British word Pebyll (c). The learned minister of Peebles
however, derives the obscure name of his parish from a more obvious origin,
the pebbles under his feet, though we are not told, indeed, that pebbles are
very plentiful in this ancient town of the British tribes. We thus sometimes
see antiquaries " collecting toys, as children gath'ring ^pebbles on the shore."
When the British Gadeni pitched their tents on this commodious site, the Eng-
lish speech had never been heard on " smooth-meand'ring Tweed." The ancient

(a) We first see it in the Inquisitio of Earl David, 1116 a.d., which found that there had belonged
to the episcopate of Glasgow, "in le Peblis," one carucate of land and a church.

(b) Davis, Owen, and Lhuyd's Arch., 287. In the sister dialect of the Irish, Pabal has the same
signification as the British Pabell'. O'Brien and Shaw.

(c) Several other places, both in North-Britain and in Wales, derive their names from the same
source. Peebles is the name of an estate, a mansion-house, and a hamlet, in St. Vigean's parish,
Forfarshire ; a hamlet in Kirkmabreck, in Kirkcudbright, is named Pebble or Pebbil ; and a hamlet in
Fortingal parish, Perthshire, is named, according to the Irish idiom, Pabal. Such are the similar
names in North-Britain ! In Wales the place near Bala, on Lynn Tegid, where the British bard,
Lywarch hen, long lamented his misfortunes, is called Pabell Lywarch hen, signifying the tent, or
dwelling of Lywarch, the aged. Another place, in Wales, is called Cll-y-Pebill, the recess or retreat,
where stood the tents or movable dwellings. Owen. The reader, to feel the full force of this
investigation, must constantly recollect that the site of Peebles was originally settled by British tribes,
who imposed this descriptive name in their significant language ; for without this recollection such
disquisitions were made in vain.

892 A N A C C 0 U N T. [Ch. YL— Peebles-shire.

town or shielings stood upon the northern side of the Tweed, and on the
western side of Peebles water, which here " pours its sweetness in its genial
bosom." A new town afterward arose on the opposite side of the Peebles
water, northward from the Tweed to some distance. The two towns are
connected by two bridges over Peebles water ; and at the south-west corner
of the new town, there is an old but well built bridge of five arches over the
Tweed (d). The colloquial name of this shire is Tiveeddale ; signifying in the
Saxon tongue and Norman idiom, the dale or valley of the Tweed. This river,
which is the fourth of Scotland in size, rises from a spring fifteen hundred feet
above the sea level, on Tweed-moor, on the western verge of this shire {e),
and raeandring through its centre while it receives many tributary streams, the
Tweed drains the ridgy country, " where stray the muses in what lawn and
grove." The earliest recorded notice of this celebrated river, the favourite of
the lyric muse, is the charter of Selkirk by Earl David, before he became
king by the Latin name of Tweda, the British Tued. The most ancient men-
tion of Tweeddale is in the charter of Kelso, 1126, by the name of Tueddal,
before the district had yet been placed under the useful regimen of a sheriff-
wick (/). It was probably the Anglo-Norman people, who came in here soon
after the Norman invasion of England, who imposed upon the countiy which
was washed by the Upper Tweed, the appropriate name of Tweddal, which was
soon softened to Tweeddale.

§ II. Of its Situation and ExteiH.'\ The county of Peebles has Dumfries-
shire on the south ; Lanarkshire on the west ; Edinburghshire on the north
and north-east ; and Selkirkshire on the east (g). Peebles-shire lies between

(d) Stat. Acco. xii. i. ; and the plan of Peebles oq Armstrong's Map of this shire.

{e) " The Twede aforesaid, saith Camden, runneth through the midst of a dale, taking name of it ;
a very goodly river, which springing more inwardly westward, runneth by Drummellier castle to
Peblis, a market town. "

(/) David I. granted to the monks of Kelso the tenth of the cheeses, yearly made, in Tueddal.
Chart. Kelso, No. 1. This is a high authority for the popular pronunciation of Tuaddal, for the
name of the marquisate. Before the year 1159, the most ancient name of Tueddal had been softened
to Twede-dale, as we may learn from a charter of Malcolm IV., in the Diplomata Scotiae. In several
Bulls, during the reign of William the Lion, the name is softened still more into Twedcde, as we may
see in the Chartulary of Glasgow. In the charters of more recent time*, Tweeddale is called " Vatle
de Twede."

(g) Armstrong, the surveyor of this shire, has mistaken in his map the briundaiy between Peebles
and Selkirkshire, on the northern side of the Tweed. The real boundary between these shires, on this
quarter, is Gaithorpe burn, from its influx into the Tweed along its whole course to Windlestraw law.

Sect. II.— Its Situation and Extent.'] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 8U3

55° 25' and 55° 50' north latitude, according to Ainslie and Armstrong, and it is
placed in Armstrong's map of this shire, 0° 14' east to 0° 22' west of Edinburgh,
or from 2° 58' to 3° 34' west from Greenwich (h).

By an average mensuration of Armstrong's map of Peebles-shire, and of Ainslie's
map of Scotland, the full length of this county extends from north to south
about twenty-eight [29] miles, the mean length being twenty-seven miles. The
north end of it is twelve miles broad, the middle is eighteen miles, and the southern
end is rather more than ten miles ; so that the mean breadth is thirteen one-
half miles, and of consequence, the superficies of this shire ought to be
364 square miles, and its contents 232,960 English acres. But from a minute
calculation made, by dividing the surface on Arrowsmith's map of Scotland
into several parts, and by ascertaining the contents of each, it appears that the
superficies of the whole shire is 338 [354] square miles, containing 216,320
statute acres (?'). The number of people in Peebles-shire being 8,735, according
to the enumeration of the year 1801, gives 25.84 for each square mile of its real
population, and the recent returns evince, that 5.;^ persons to each house is the
average rate of the inhabitation, within this pastoral shire.

§ III. Of its Natural Objects.'] The outline of the surface of Peebles-shire,
consisting of alternations of hill and dale, is the most striking of its natural
features. From the dale of the Tweed, which forms the centre of the county,
the surface rises on both its sides to the south and to the north. The lofty
hills towards the extremities of the shire, mount to the greatest heights, and
the mountains which separate Tweeddale from Annandale, are the highest of the
hills in Southern Scotland (k). On the boundary with Selkirkshire, Blackhouse

(A) According to Armstrong, the meridian of Edinburgh runs through the shire town of Peebles,
which, therefore, is 3° 6' west from Loudon. This metropolis of Tweeddale is situated iu 55° 38' 40"
north latitude. Armstrong's Map.

(i) From those calculations upon the Engineer's Survey, the general result, both of the superficies
and contents, is somewhat different from those of Armstrong's Map, the Agricultural View, and the
Agricultural Survej'.

(/t) Hartfell rises 2918 [2651] feet above the level of the German sea. The conical top of White-
comb edge is supposed to be somewhat higher, though its cloud-capped summit can seldom be seen
through its surrounding mists. Broad Law raises its flat and circular top 2850 [275-1] feet above the
sea level. Of Broad Law, Armstrong remarks, that its summit would admit a horse course of two
miles circuit without the smallest inequality of surface. Companion to the Map of Peebles-shire,
107-10-11. Near the utmost acclivity of Broad Law, there is an excellent spring, which is known,
popularly, as Geddes's Well. Dollar Law rises 2,840 [2680] feet above the sea level. Id. Stat.
Acco., iii. 388. Scrape hill also rises nearly to the same height.
4 5 U

894 An account [Oh. Nil.— Peeblesshire.

heieiits rise 2,360 feet above the level of" the German Ocean. About two miles
northward from those eminences, Scawd law mounts to 2,120 [2,249] feet above
the same level {Ic). On the south-east of Peebles-shire, where it marches with
Selkirkshire, the wide-spreading mountain of Minchmoor rises 2,285 [1,856] feet
above the sea (/). On the north-east of Peebles-shire, the huge mountain called
Windlestraw law x-ears its mossy summit 2,295 [2161] feet above the same
level (in), and Dundroich rises to the height of 2,100 feet above the sea {n).
On the north and north-west of Peebles-shire, the hills are not so high as those
upon the south and south-west. Cairn hill, at the springs of Lyne water, rises
1,800 feet above the sea level (o). On the west, the Pykitstane rises 2,100
feet above the same level (2^). Broughton heights rear their head 1,483 feet
above the level of the sea. From these mountains, south-south-west, Candon
hill mounts to an elevation of 1,400 feet above the level of the Tweed, and
upwards of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, and this is the highest moun-
tain on the western side of Peebles-shii-e (g). This country, saith Doctor Penne-
cuick, is almost everywhere swelled with hills, which, for the most part are
green, grassy, and pleasant, except a ridge betwixt Minchmoor and Hender-
land, which is black, craggy, and of a melancholy aspect, with deep and
horrid precipices {r). This range of hills lie along the south- eastei-n border of

(k) Armstrong's Companion. 92 ; Stat. Acco., xii. 370 ; and eastward from those, Gumscleugh, and
several other bills in Traquair parish, are still higher. Id.

(/) Companion to the Map, 100. On the north side of Minchmoor, near the road from Peebles to
Selkirk, there is a fine spring, called, from whatever cause, the Cheese Well. In travelling from
Tweeddale to Selkirk, from the summit of Minchmoor, are first seen Newark castle ; the water of
Yarrow, and the forest lying on either side of it.

(m) This mountain has a deep mossy surface to the very summit. Companion, 48.

()() Dun-droich. in the Gaelic, signifies the Druid's-hill. This name intimates that the Druids must
have left here some memorial of their worship. In fact, there is, on the summit of this huge hill,
which is also called Brown Dod, a large collection of stones that now marks the conjunction of three
contiguous estates. In this vicinity, and within the parish of Inverleithen. there are several other
mountains, which are also remarkable for their elevations, such as, Dunslair, Sole, Whitehope law,
Blackhope Scars, and Bowbeat. Companion, 49.

(o) In the north-east part of Linton paiish, upon the Black burn, there is a natural curiosity called
the Harbour Craig. lb., .58.

{]i) lb., 30. On the summit of this mountain, there is a rude collection of stones, which now marks
the contiguous marches of three estates. We ma}' easily suppose that the rude stones existed here
man}' an age before those estates existed,

{q) Stat. Acco., iv. 325,

()■) Description of Tweeddale, 3. One of those terrible chasms is called Giimfi-cleugh, upon the head
of Quair water. The cliffs tliat foi-m this chasm aie called Glendenns hanks, and are more than half a
mile in length, and from 200 to 300 feet high. Stat. Acco., xii, 378.

Sect. III.— fc Natural Objects.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 8'J5

this shire, along the marches of Ettrick forest, and is the mo.st inhospitable
part of Peebles-shire. Most of the hills of this shire, says the surveyor of its
mountains and vales, wear an agreeable aspect, are easy of ascent, and are
abundant in herbage. Nor are they so often deformed by hideous mosses,
nor so frequently interrupted by horrid precipices, as many of the Scottish
mountains (s).

From the hills of this shire to the valleys below, the transition is easy. The
dale of the Tweed forms, indeed, the great body of Peebles-shire. From it
many vales branch off along the channels of the streams, which hasten to mingle
their kindred waters with "the Tweed's silver flood. " These vales must neces-
sarily be of various extent and different fertility. The most considerable and
the most fruitful are the valleys on the Lyne and Eddlestone waters. In general,
the dales and the dingles are most fertile, and the hills the most pleasant in
the north and west of this shire, while in the south and east, the vales are
more barren, and the mountains are more bleak.

In the midst of all those inequalities of surface, Peebles-shire cannot boast of
her lakes. Neither can the topographers of this county be allowed to assume
the St. Mar}' Loch of Selkirkshire as their own, though its western margin, for
more than a mile, forms the boundary of Peebles-shire. The most consider-
able lake in this county is the Water-loch in Eddlestone parish {t). This
beautiful lake is nearly three quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad,
and abounds in pike and eels, while it is the periodical resort of wild-fowl
which dip the wing in water {u). On the estate of Slijjperfield, in Linton
parish, there is a lake of nearly a mile and a half in circumference, which bi-eeds
pike and perch, but not eels, as the water is impregnated with moss {x). The
only other lake which diversifies this shire, is Gameshope loch, within the
bosom of an uninhabited glen, in Tweedsmuir parish, and which is emptied by
Gameshope burn, one of the sources of Talla water («/).

Yet is Peebles-shire well watered by many streams. The Tiueed, however,
is the great channel which collects and carries off the whole moisture of
" this misty mountain ground." This celebrated river rises on the mountainous
ridge that separates Tweeddale from Annandale ; and that sends the Tweed to the

(s) Armstrong's Companion to his Map, 26.

(t) This absurd name of Water loch it may have obtained, during ignorant times, from its being
the source of the Esk, which in the Celtic literally signifies the water.

(«) Ai-mstrong's Companion, 40 ; Stat. Acco., xvii. 182. (c) lb., i. 127.

0/) lb., 111.

89fi An account [Ch. YU.— Peeblesshire.

east sea, and the Annan to the west (:). In a rapid course of ten miles
through the mountainous tract of Tweedsmuir the rivulet Tweed becomes a
considerable riveret by receiving the sister streams of the Fruid, the Cor, and
the Tala (a). From Tweedsmuir the Tweed now takes a northern course to
Drummelzier, where this riveret receives the united streams of Holms, Kil-
bucho, and Biggar (b). The Tweed turns eastward from Drummelzier, and
runs in an east-north-east direction, till this common channel receives the Ljne
river at the south-east extremity of the Sheriff moor. From this junction the
Tweed continues a winding course to Peebles town, receiving in its run the
water of Manor from the south, and having also received at the shire town,
Eddlestone water, the Tweed courses eastward in a winding direction ; and receiv-
ing in its flow the Quair, the Leithen, among smaller streams, this augmented
river leaves Peebles-shire and enters Selkirkshire at the influx of Gaithope

(z) The stone monument called Tweeds Cross stands 1632 feet above the sea level. Armstrong,
who is a better surveyor than an antiquary, supposes this stone to have been an object of Dmidical
worship ; but as it stands on the roadside, where the way passes the summit of this ridge, it was pro-
bably placed here as a direction-post, and afterwards converted into a land-boundary.

(a) Fruid is a large stream which falls down the Hart-fell mountain, and is merely, in the origin of
its name, the British Freivd, signifpng a stream, a torrent. Davis and Owen. The Cor hastens, in
many a turn, to join the Tweed, and derived its significant name from the British Cor, which in
this, as well as in the congenerous speech of the Irish, means a round or turn. The Talla, coming
down from the northern face of the mountainous ridge which sends the Moffat to the south, is
remarkable, in both its sources, for its many cataracts, which are here called linns, from the British
linn, that is commonly applied, in Scotland, to the cataract rather than to the pool below. The
Talla may have taken its British name from the lofty precipices under which it tumbles ; Tal, in the
British speech, signifying what is over, or tops, what towers ; or from the kindred Gaelic Talla,
murmuring. The eagle, called the em, finds among those precipices a secure place for her frequent
incubation.

{b) After draining the whole parish of Glenholm, the Holm water, at the lower end of it, joins
Biggar water. Both the parish and the stream take their analogous names from the hobns, or
meadows, along the water side. The Biggar derives its name from the town of Biggar, by which
it glides ; and coming soon upon the north-west corner of Kilbucho parish, it courses along the whole
northern boundary of this district, when it receives the Kilbucho water ; and falling into the Holms
water, they all find repose in the Tweed. The Kilbucho water derives its name from the parish which
it drains. The Clyde, which has its sources in the same ridge with the spring of the Tweed, by aeon-
generous curvature, comes within a mile of Kilbucho parish ; and. if it were expedient, the Clyde
might be easily conducted, as Armstrong observes, through the channel of Biggar water to the Tweed.
In high floods, indeed, some of the waters of the Clyde overflow into the Biggar water, and are carried
with it to the Tweed. Agricult. Survey, 4.

Sect. III.— /As Natural Objects.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. »07

burn (f). Tlie Tweed, from its source to the sea, descends from a height of
1,550 feet, one half of which it falls before it has coursed twenty miles. It
has only one cataract, within eight miles of the spring, before it has been
swelled by so many streamlets {d). The Tweed is the longest river in the
south of Scotland, but not the largest within that country, as Armstrong
supposes, and as we have seen from mensuration. Tweed formerly abounded
with salmon, which have been nearly destroyed by artifice, at the call of in-
tei-est ; yet Tweed and all its streams abound with trout. Tweed turns few
mills, nor has its waters been contaminated much by noxious manufactui'es (c).
Of the numeroiis streams which bestow their waters on the Tweed within
this shire, the most considerable are the Lyne, the Eddlestone, and the Leithen,
which fall into this common reservoir on the north, and the Manor and
Quair on the south. The Lyne rises in the southern declivity of Cairn hill,
on the north-western limits of Peebles-shii-e ; and collecting in a coui'se of ono-
and-twenty miles the streamlets that drain the parishes of Linton, Newlands,
Kirkurd, and Lyne, it consigns all their cognate waters to the Tweed. The
Lyne has retained through many a change, its British appellation, which is
nothing more than the British Llynn, signifying what flows, a fluid (/').

((■) The whole course of the Tweed through Peebles-shire is about
Through Selkirkshire --.-..-.
Along Roxburprhshire nearly .-.-...
Along Berwickshire something more than - . . . .

miles.

102

miles.

102

miles,

108

102

The whole course of the Tweed --....

Thus, the Tweed, in the south, nins - - -

The Tay, in the centre of Scotland, runs - . . . .

The Spey, in the north, runs --.....

And those large rivers fnll into the east sea.

(d) The cataract, which is near Tweedsmoor bridge, is called Carlow's linn.

(e) Tweed was called Vueda, by Ptolomy, and Tueda by Richard ; Tuid by Bede ; and Tued by
the British people, in whose speech the word signifies what is on a side, border, or region. Davis,
Lhuyd, and Owen. All the blandishments of poetry have been bestowed on the Tweed. Drayton
speaks of "Tweed's fair flood;" Ramsay delights to sing of •■ smooth-meand'ring Tweed;" Burns
laments the " the Tweed's silver flood ; " Hamilton of Bangour chants of •' the flow'r-blushing banks
of the Tweed:" and Crawford, the Scottish Shenstone, carols of ■■ the sweet-winding Tay, and the
pleasanter banks of the Tweed.''

(/) Davis and Owen. Upon Lyne water, there were, in Dr. Pennecuick's time, four bridges and
two com mills. Descript. of Tweeddale, 10. Of the streamlets which the Lyne receives, the principal
are the Tarth and the West water. The Tarth is chiefly formed by the eastern branch of the Medwin,

898 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Yll.-^Peeb/c^-Mre.

Eddlestone water rises from Kings-seat hill, in Eddlestone parish, and forms the
great drain of this district, bj running thi-ough its centre from north to south ;
and entering Peebles parish, falls into the Tweed at Peebles town, after a course
of tliirteen miles ((/). This stream has long lost its Celtic appellation, and takes
the unmeaning name of the village through which it glides. Lower down, in
its course to the Tweed, it assumes the name of the shire-town. Leithen water
rises from a spring called the Water-head, in the north-west exti-emity of Inver-
leithen parish, throughout the extent of which it runs a rapid course of twelve
miles ; collecting in its descent the streamlets that drain that mountainous
country, and falling into the Tweed a mile below Inverleithen church, which
derives its Celtic! name from that influx or Inver. The ancient British name,
which the Leithen still retains, denotes its qualities of overflow ; LJidd or Lith,
according to the English pronunciation, signifying an effusion, a gush, a flood.
In fact, this mountain torrent frequently floods the adjacent grounds, and often
threatens the village on its bank (h). Manor water rises at Foulbrig, m the
southern extremity of Manor parish, through which it runs a course of twelve
miles, and which it drains as it courses with other streamlets to the Tweed.
The Quair rises at Glendean Banks, in the south-west of Traquair parish ; and

wliicb. rising at tlie base of Hinchy hill, courses four miles between the contiguous shires of Lanark
and Peebles, till, at the Salmon Leap, it separates into two streams ; the western falling into the
Clyde, and the eastern into the Lyne and Tweed. This remarkable separation may explain the fact,
which has puzzled naturalists who caught salmon above the impassible cataracts of the Clyde at Oor-
house, Stonebyres, and Bonington. The British name of the Tarth seems to allude to that well-known
separation of it from the Medwin ; for Tardd, which is pronounced as Tarih in English, signifies a
breaking through, an issuing from. Davis and Owen. The Tarth is also famous for its trouts, owing
perhaps to its slow motion and commodious pools. The West water, which joins the L3'ne in Linton
parish, retained, in Pennecuick's time, its Celtic name of Pol-an-tarbh, which, in the Scoto-Iiish,
signifies the bull's rivulet, with an allusion, perhaps, to the ancient superstition that supposed the
existence of a u-ater bull, or Tarhli msqiie, that possessed the power of working good or ill to those wlio
feared him ; and hence, too, the Gaelic Tarhh, which is pronounced as Tarw, or Tarf. appears in the
names of many waters ; as, Tarf water and Tarf loch, in Inverness-shire ; Tarf water, in Perthshire ;
Tarf water in Kirkcudbright ; and Tarf water in Wigton ; so, Loch-an-tarf in Moray and Loch-an-tarf
in Sutherland.

(a) One of the branches of this stream forms a cataract of thirty-five feet fall, which is called
Coicie's Linn. Companion to the Map, 40; Stat. Acco., xvii. 18.'i.

(/() The Companion, 46 ; and the Rev. Charles Findlater's MS. Description. This torrent is men-
tioned by the same name in several charters of Alexander IL Chart. Newbotle, No. 129-30. Leitkan
is either the diminutive or the plural of IJit/i. Owen. The Leith water of Mid-Lothian derives its
British name from the same source, and is remarkable for the same qualities.

Sect. III.— ^.s Nutiiral Objects.'] 0 F NO E T H - B R I T A I N. 899

receiving many rivulets in its course, falls into the Tweed below Traquair
house. The Qair derived its Celtic name from its curvatures ; Qwijr in the
British, and Cuar in the Irish, signifying crooked or bending (i).

The only stream in Peebles-shire which does not convey its waters to the
Tweed, as the common receiver of the moisture of this country, is the Megget.
Originating in two sources, the one rivulet from the declivities of Cairn law,
and the other rill from the moss of Winterhope, the Megget drains the dreary
parish of Megget, and pours its collected waters into St. Mary's loch, whence
they pass on to the Yarrow and the Ettrick, while botli join the Tweed, as we
have seen. The Megget derives its name from the Celtic Meag, intimating the
whey colour of its waters ; and the sister Megget in Dumfries-shire, the
kindred Meag and the congenerous Maig in Limerick county, all derive their
Celtic appellations from the same source owing to similar circumstances (k).
The two Esks of Lothian have, indeed, a slight connection with Peebles-shire.
The South-Esk, as we have seen, springs from the water loch in Eddlestone
parish, and after running a course of nearly four miles, enters Mid-Lothian
and finds its influx in the Forth. It joins in its career the North-E.sk, which
also rises within Peebles-shire from two sources, from the eastern base
of Cairn hill and from Weather law ; and after meandering for six or seven
miles along the northern border of this county it enters Mid-Lothian, joins
South-Esk, and is absorbed in the Forth. Every water in streamy Tweed-dale
produces trout, some of them par and some of them salmon ; and each gives
its usefulness and each contributes its oi-nament (I).

Peebles-shire abounds as much in minerals as Selkirkshire is deficient. New-
lands and Linton parishes supply the whole county with coals, except the
eastern districts, which derive their coal and lime from the Lothians. The
coal of Tweed-dale is only an extension of that vast seam of seventy or eighty

(t) Davis and Owen, O'Brien and Sliaw.

{k) The two Meggets, as they are streamlet.s, probably acquired the diminutive form from th.at
circumstance. See O'Brien and Shaw, in vo. Meadhg. and Owen, in vo. Maiz. A zealous Briton
might perhaps derive the name of Maig, from the British Maig, signifying a sudden turn or
curvature ; but this circumstance does not apply to the whole class of those names. In fact, the
Eoss-shire Meag is remarkably free from turns or curves. Of the various streamlets that fall into the
Megget of Peebles-shire, two are remarkable for having retained their Celtic names. Cram-alt,
signifying a crooked rill, which is descriptive of its course; and Glean-gabhar, meaning the goats
valley. A third streamlet that joins the Megget, forms, near Henderland, a cataract called the Dow-
linn, signifying the blacJ: puvl, both in the British and Irish languages, which is descriptive of the pool
formed below by the water-fall above.

(I.) Stat. Accounts ; Agricult. Survey ; and Companion to the Map of Tweeddale.

900 AnACCOUNT [Ch. VII.— Peebles-shire.

miles broad which runs from the Forth along the North-Esk, throughout an
extent of fifteen miles. The abundance of the supply has produced the general
use of coal, since the days of Pennecuick, when the gentry and the town of
Peebles only used this coaly fuel (m).

Limestone also abounds in Peebles-shire. It happily abounds the most
where there is the most coal. Much lime was manufactured for manure even
in the days of Pennecuick. The farmers, however, of the eastern districts of
this county, bring their lime for all the uses of agriculture from the many
lime-works of Mid-Lothian (?i). Marl also is found where the lime-stone
exists. In Linton and Newlands are various beds of marl of the white or
shelly, and also of the blue kind ; yet marl was here known and used when
Pennecuick perambulated Tweeddale (o). In Newlands parish, on the estate of
La Mancha, there is an endless variety of clays. It has, particularly, a very
thick bed o^Jire clay like that of Stourbridge. It has alum slate in abundance ;
and there are also in Newlands parish, both red and yellow ochres with veins
of Manganesia {p). In Linton parish a small seam o^ f idlers earth has been
discovered on Lyne water, near Bridge house (</). Newlands and Linton
parishes also abound with freestone. Between both those parishes, on the
hilly ridge of Broomylees, there are several quarries of red freestone, which
is of a firmer texture than the white (r). These are the only freestone quarries,
which are worked for public sale and general use. But whinstone is the
prevailing rock throughout Peebles -shire, though, being very plenty, it is not
much demanded (s). The slate quarries in this shire have long been famous.
In Tramore hill, within Stobo parish, there are two seams of blue slate, which
have been manufactured for many uses, during several years. They are sent
far beyond the limits of this shire ; and, indeed, Pennecuick informs us how
far the slate of Stobo was carried, in his time, for covering the houses of the
nobles and gentry {t). Marble, too, white marble, has been found at White-

(;») Pennecuick's Description, 4; Companion to the Map, 43 ; Agricult. Sui-vey, "21 ; and the Stat.
Acco., i. 131-149.

(n) Agricult. Survey, 21. (o) Description, 5 ; Stat. Acco., i. 131 ; lb., xxi. 52.

{p) Stat. Acco., xxi. 52-53; i. 149. {q) Stat. Acco., i. 131.

()•) Id. ; Agricult. Survey, 20. (s) Id.

(i) Description, 29. A blue skte .quairy, in Glenliolm parisb, was long worked with great
advantage ; but it gave way at length to the competition of the Stobo slates. Companion, 44. At
Grieston, in Traquair parish, another slate quarry, which was once in repute, also feels the com-
petition of the Stobo quarries, which, perhaps, have some local advantages. Pennecuick, 5 ; Stat.
Acco., sii. 370.

Sect. III. — fc Natural Objects.'] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 901

field, in Linton parish, which is rich in minerals («). Newlands parish abounds
in iron ore and iron stone ; but experience has shown that it is not metallic
enough to bear the carriage to distant foundries (x) ; and Pennecuick, who
was a mineralogist, as minei-alogy was in his day understood, assures us that
there are both ironstone and copper in Linton parish {y). But the hills of
La Mancha are superior to every other district in the variety and richness of its
iron ores (s). And in one of those hills, thus fruitful in minerals, there is a
vein of stone which is supposed to be a native loadstone, that is to be found in
most places where iron ore abounds (a).

In Lead Law, a hill above Linton, several lead mines were formerly wrought ;
and some silver was extracted from the ore. The sinks or pits, which were
wrought on Lead laio, are still apparent ; and even now bear the appropriate
name of Silverholes. About sixty years ago these mines were again tried ; but
the attempt was soon discontinued as unprofitable (b). They were, probably,
unable to withstand the competition of the richer mines of Lead hills and Wan-
lock-head upon the Clyde. In Traquair parish, several attempts have been
made to discover lead mines ; and some ore has been found, though not
sufficiently rich to pay the expense of working. A specimen of Galena ore was
found not long since in one of the streams that fall into the Quair. In this
parish a feeble attempt was made, in 1775, to sink a lead mine above the
village of Bold (c).

If we may believe our ancient historians, Boece and Buchanan, gold has been
formei'ly found in Glen-Gaber water, which traverses Megget parish, the pooi"est
district, with all its gold, in Tweeddale {d).

Mineral springs may be expected in a country which is thus fertile in minerals.
Chalybeate waters, having a blue scum, an irony taste, and an ochry sediment,
abound every where in the parishes of Linton and Newlands. One of these,
called Heaven aqua Well, near Linton, on the north, resembles the waters of

(m) Penneouick's Description, 5. (x) Agricult. Survey, 22. (y) Description, 5.

(z) Stat. Acco., sxi 52. (a) Id.

(h) Pennecuick's Description, 5 ; Agricult. Survey, 22-3.

(d) We must remember that there is another stream of the same name in Traquair parish. Stat.
Acco., xii. 564. Dr. Penneouick, who seems willing to enlarge the list of minerals in Tweeddale, says
that sixty years before he wrote [1700] there was found in the Mount hill of Skirling, within a mossy
turf, a parcel of //old, which Mi-. Mossman, a merchant in Edinburgh, caused to be polished and made
into rings. App. prefixed to his Description.

4 5 W

yo-' An ACCOUNT [Oh. YU.—Peebles-.'</nre.

Tunbridge, and it is said to be equally strong (e). At La Mancha, in Newlands
parish, there is a chalybeate spring called the Vertiie Well, which contains a
large quantity of fixed air that holds the iron in solution (/). Within tliese
fifteen years, there has been discovered at the base of Lee-Pen, near the village
of Inverleithen, a mineral spring which is impregnated with salt and sulphur ;
and is of a similar nature with the Harrogate watei's. This spring gives out
about a quart in a minute in dry weather. Before its properties were known,
tlie place where its waters oozed through the surface was much frequented by
pigeons; and it was hence called the Pigeons' Well. Since the salubrious waters
have produced many cures, the Pigeons' Well has become a place of resort where
accommodations have been built for the patients (g). In the vicinity of Kirkurd
house there is a copious spring which is impregnated with sulphur, and of
which Black the chemist made a chemical analysis, and found it to be
stronger than the Moffat waters, but weaker than the Harrogate (h). More
knowledge and more capital may produce more profit to Peebles-shire from its
abundant minerals.

§ IV. Oj' its Antiquities.^ At the epoch of the Roman invasion in 80 a.d.,
the British Gadeni who possessed the interior country from the Northumbrian
Tyne to " besouth Forth, that principal river of right fair waie {i)." During
the Roman period, that Celtic tribe remained within Antonine's rampart.
After the abdication of the Roman government, the Gadeni naturally associated
themselves with the kindred Britons of Strathclyde, which easily commimicated
through several openings of the strong and secluded country on the Upper
Tweed. The descendants of the ancient settlers continued here, though perhaps
not withovit molestation throughout the Pictish period. After the overthrow of
the Pictish government in 843 a.b., the posterity of the Romanized Gadeni
enjoyed on the Tweed theu* own government, till the fortune of the Scottish kings
prevailed in 947 a.d., in suppressing the peculiar government of the ancient
Britons of Strathclyde. Yet, though their government was undone for ever,
the British people remained long within their fastnesses and mixed with tlieir
congenerous invaders. The forest of Ettrick, which then consisted of woody
ravines and steep hills, formed a strong barrier against the intruding Saxons
on the south-east. Throughout the middle of this impervious forest was

(e) Stat. Acco., i. 1.32. (/) lb., xxi. 52. (g) Id.

(b) lb., XX. 185. The Kirkurd spring has been since used with success in several distempers,
(i) Wyntown.

Sect. IV.— Its Antiquities.] 0 p N 0 R T II - B E I T A I N . 903

carried the Catrail, which formed a strong dividing fence, between the Saxons
on tlie Teviot and the Britons on the Tweed. The vast and dismal mountains
which on east and north-east send their waters to the Forth, formed also an
impassable barrier against the Saxons of Lothian ; and the only natural open-
ings through the mountain barricades, to the country on the Upper Tweed,
were from Strathclyde.

Of the British people, there are many remains in Peebles-shire ; and their
antiquities consist of their language, of their places of worship, of their
sepulchral monuments, of their memorial stones, and of their hill-forts.

The people and their speech are the earliest antiquities of evei-y country.
As the Britons remained longer unmixed in Peebles-shire than in any other
district, they left more traces of their language. Peebles, the name of the
shire-town and the county, is a British word, as we have seen. The whole
topography of this country is full of denominations, from their significant speech.
Pen, we may see, frequently applied to the summits of several hills, as it signifies
a head, or crest, or end (i). The British Caer, signifying a fort, or strength,
or fortified place, may still be traced in several names, however disguised (k).
The British Pil, signifying a fort, is still applied to several towns under the
form of Peel. Craig, in the British as well as in the Irish, signifies rocks, a
rocky height, or cliff; and enters into the formation of many names of places
in Peebles-shire (l). Cam, in the British as well as in the Irish, signifies a
prominence, a heap, a pile ; and Cairn is the common appellative for many
piles of stones which were raised by the earliest people of this district (m). Bre,
in the British as well as in the Irish, signifies a hill, a Brae, a brow ; and
Bre or Brae, are very commonly applied to hills and to acclivities in this
shire in). Tor, in the British as in the Irish, signifies a swell, a bulge, a
prominence and Tor is here applied to various hills or ])rotuberances (o),
and enters into the formation of many names of places in this county [p).
The British Lhjnn, signifying what flows, a i:>ool, a lake, is the common
name for the numerous cataracts in this shire, and for the pools which are

(i) There is Lee-Pe», a very high conical hill in luverleithen parish ; and there are three hills in
Stobo parish, which are named Pe«-ain, /^en-valla, and PeH-uenny. Amistrong's Companion to his
map of this shire, 49.

(Jc) There ar Car-lavin hill in Tweedsmuir parish ; Car-dan and Car-don in Glenholm : Car-pet in
Linton, and Car-drona in Traquair.

(/) Companion to the Map, throughout. («;) lb. 49. (/() Id. (o) Id.

(/)) As Tor in Peebles parish ; Tor-y-kneis hill, 7'or-pedy hill in Drammelzier parish: JVr-tie hill,
Tor-ereish hill, and Tor-heune hill in Stobo parish. Font's Map in Blaeu's Atlas.

904 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ll.— Peebles-shire.

formed from the water-fall {q). Nearly all the waters in this county have
i-etained their British names, through the successions of people and the revolu-
tions of ages ; as the Tweed, the Lyne, the Leithen, the Co7', the Talla, the
Megijet, the Logan, and others, as the majj evinces. Several other names of
places in this district remain intelligible in the British speech (r). Many
names have, however, been so corrupted by time and chance, in the course of
ages, as to be unintelligible ; and many more have been obviously superseded
by Scoto-Irish and Scoto-Saxon names. Several appellations are of a mixed
nature, — Scots and Saxon syllables superinduced upon Celtic words ; as Lin-
ton, Linfoot, Kirkitrc^; and there are frequently pleonasms, — as Knoc hill,
Cairn hill, Qlen-dean ; and so of other pleonastic forms, by superinducing more
recent names on ancient placed, as the original language was not understood by
a different people (s). Of the names of sixteen parishes in Peebles-shire, eight
are wholly British; one was changed from the British Penti-achob to Eddlestone;
four are half British, that is, Scoto-Irish and Scoto-Saxon grafted on British ;
one is half British and half Irish ; two are Scoto-Irish ; and three are Scoto-
Saxon or English. So prevalent are the remains of the British people in
Tweeddale even at the pi-esent day !

The British people have left here many Druid remains which the Saxons
destroyed in Lothian. At Hairstanes, in Ku'kurd parish, there are the remains
of a Druid temple or oratory, consisting of a number of large stones standing
in a circular form. Tradition still speaks of the Hairstanes as a place of
worship rather than the scene of conflict {t). On the remarkable peninsula,
which is now called the Sheriffmuir, and which is formed by the Tweed and
Lyne, there are the remarkable remains of a Druid temple. From each of two
standing stones, there run out to the east, in a curvature, two rows of smaller
stones, which also stand upright. The tradition of the country states this curious
remain to have been a Druid temple ; yet the surveyor of this county speaks of

{q) Such as Carlows lin on the Tweed, Cowies lin on the Leithen, Dow liii on the Megget ; several
water-falls and pools on the Fala water are called Fall-/i'».«, and a similar series of cataracts and pools
on Gameshope burn, are called Gameshope lins.

()•) As Traquuir, Trahenna, Tramore in Stobo parish ; Finglan in Newlands, Finglan in Traquair,
and Finglan in Tweedsmuir; Cademuir in Peebles, Posso, which was of old Possa, and Carers in Manor
parish.

(«) Pentejacob, or Penjacob, was changed to Gillemoreston before the year 1170. Windy law was
substituted, in the 13tli century, for the Celtic tor, signifying a hill, the same as the Saxon
law.

(?) In the same parish, a small ring, which was supposed to be a di-uidical amulet, was found in a
British sepulchre. Com j anion to the Map, 53 ; Stat. Acco., x. 168.

S ect. lY.—Jts A n tiquities. ] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 9 05

it idiotically as the site of a grave («). Near Tweedsmuir church there is
the remain of a Druid oratory, consisting of several large stones which are
placed upright in a circular form. The tradition of the country states that
the small eminence which is called the Quarter-knowe, and on which stands
Tweedsmuir church, was anciently a place of Druid worship (x). Near Gaithope
on the border between Peebles and Selkirk, there are the remains of a Druid
oratory consisting of a circle of standing stones, whereof only five now con-
tinue in upright positions {y). Such are the only remains of Druid oi-atories
which this Celtic district can show, after so many successions of people, revo-
lutions of power, and changes of property. But they undoubtedly exhibit the
mode of worship which the pagan inhabitants practised in the earliest times, as
the Scoto-Irish and the Scoto-Saxons who came in successively on the ancient
Britons had already adopted the Christian discipline.

From the mode of worship to the manner of burial, the distance is not far.
In Linton parish, between Garvvald foot and Kingseat, there are three sepulchral
tumuli, in one whereof was found an earthen urn containing human relics (2).
In the same parish, at the base of Mundick hill, there were found about the
year 1775 several skeletons of a gigantic size (a). In Linton parish have been
often discovered stone coffins with human bones, particularly in Chajielhill park:
and above Spital-h-dugh, several stone coffins having human bones have also
been found (b). Below Linton half a mile, where the Lyne washes away a
piece of ground called Temple-]a,nd, many coffins consisting of flag-stones
and containing human bones have been disclosed (c). In the parks of Kirkurd
thei'e are two small mounts called the Castle and Law, which are surrounded
by a little raised enclosure of an irregular form. Gordon, who inspected them,
thought the small mounts to be artificial (d), and must of course be sepulchral
barrows of ancient construction, though they were afterwards converted to mote
hills for administering justice to a coarse people. In the same parish, at Mount

(?() Companion to the map, 96 ; and the minister of the parish was so idle as to adopt his mis-
conception. Stat. Acco., iii. 326.

(.r) Companion to the map, 104.

(y) Companion to the Map, 48. Armstrong says of this remain, that tradition stales it to have
been a burial place for those who died of the plague. He must misrepresent the tradition, which states
thus, " the common chat of gossips when they meet."

(4:) Companion to the map, 01. (a) lb., 59. (b) Stat. Acco., i. 147.

(c) Description of Tweeddale, 11. No church, or chapel, or cemetery, appear about this ground,
which, however, is called Temple-land.

{(I) Itin. Septent. ; Stat. Acco., xs. 185.

90G A N A C 0 0 U N T [Ch. \ll.—Feebles-skire.

hill, there was found about the year 1754, a stone chest enclosing a large clay
urn containing human bones. More recently, there have been discovered at the
same hill a stone coffin i^ feet long, 2^ feet wide, and 2^ feet deep which
contained the bones of a human body that seemed to have been about six feet
high (e). In Glenholm parish, on a plain by Tweedside there are several
sepulchral tumuli. When one of these was opened by order of the propi-ietor,
there was discovered a stone coffin enclosing a human skeleton with hvacelets
on the arms ; and near the coffin was found an urn. In another of these
barrows, there were found the remains of a human body which was much
consumed (/'). In a cairn upon King's muir, in Peebles parish, there has been
discovered an inverted urn, containing the ashes of some ancient warrior with
the blade of his dagger {g) In Eddlestoue parish, near the Ship-law, there is a
barrow called the Ship-horns ; as it resembles the inverted hull of a ship {h).
Near Easter place of Hartree in Kilbucho parish, there is a sepulchral barrow
of a circular form {i). In the vale of the Tweed between Bield and Tweedhope-
brae foot, there are four or five sepulchral cairns {h). On that remarkable
peninsula, which is called the Sheriffinuir, being a flat, but uncultivated heath,
on the junction of the Lyne with Tweed, there are two sepulchral cairns; the
one considerably larger than the other ; and there are several other tumuli of a
small size and round shape [1). We have now seen the modes of sepulture of
the ancient Britons, with their weapons, their ornaments, and their amulets.

But, what are the barrows of the warriors to the grave of Merlin ! Near
the influx of Powsail with the Tweed, a thorn tree marks the sacred spot, where
lies inhumed the prophet Merlin. Tradition has preserved his tale ; superstition

(e) Among those bones were found three flint stones, one resembling a halbevt, another of a
circular form, and a third of a cylindiical form with a small ring, which was supposed to be a
Druid amulet. lb. 186. Such were the weapon, the ornaments, and preservative of this ancient
■warrior !

(/) Stat. Acco., iv. 435. (g) lb., xii. 15. (h) Companion. 40.

(i) Companion, 51. (k) lb., i. 10 ; Stat. Acco., viii. 8'.t.

(/) Stat. Acco., iii. 32C-7. Near the largest cairn there is a circular cavity of about 150 paces in
circumference, which is obviously artificial ; and on the same moor there is a similar cavity called
Pinkie's-hole, which is about 90 paces in circumference, and at the centre, the excavation is
between six and seven feet below the level of the circumjacent plain. Id. It is uncertain, in
what age, or for what purpose all those remains were formed, or whether they be all connected with
the same object. It is probable that this moor may have been once the scene of civil conflict, and
it exhibits also several stones of memorial, which seem to show, in rude silence, that the Sheriffmoor
had been a field of battle, before that minister of peace administered justice on this singular
peninsula.

Sect. IV.— 7^*- Antiqmties.] Of N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. 007

has repeated his saws ; and the finger of age points to the eye of curiosity the
very grave of MerHn (m). Our pi'ophet is the cause of prophecy in othei-s ;
and daring King James's time, some seer foretold that,

" When Tweed, and Powsail, meet at Merlin's grave,
Scotland and England shall one monarch have."

Doctor Pennecuick has recorded the fulfihnent of this prophecy. On the same
day, says the doctor, that our King James was crowned king of England, the
river Tweed so far overflowed its banks, that it met with Powsall at the said
grave, by such a extraordinary flood as had never been observed before, nor
since that time (n). Yet has the doctor left it undecided whether the prophecy
begat the flood, or the flood the prophecy. The vaticination of Merlin was
known and respected even before the age of Edward III., as we know from
Minot, the chief poet of his lengthened reign. Even the popular voice conferred
extraordinary powers of prophecy and song on Merlin the Caledonian. Much
of the poetry of this Pictish-Briton has come down to the present times (o). At
the epoch of printing, indeed, which was also the era of popular ]n-ophecy, every
absurd saw was attributed to noted men who still lived in the popular voice ;
to Merlin of the sixth century, to Bede of the eighth, and to Waldeve of the
twelfth. During ages of ignorance and times of superstition, the prophecies
of traditional characters, in the vulgar tongue, became extremely grateful to the
popular taste. It is to this source that we must trace up the vaticinal couplet
of the Tweed and Powsail, and the grave of Merlin. It is, indeed, curious
to remark, that the Merddin of the Cambro-British, the Merlin of the Scoto-
Saxons, who was undoubtedly a Strathclyde Briton of the sixth century, should

(»i) Dr. Pennecuick has outdone himself, when speaking of Merlin, while the prophecies of this ob-
scure rhymer had their political effect. The doctor says his grave is on the side of the Powsail, a
little below the church-yard of Drumnielzier. " The particular place, he adds, at the root of a Thorn-
tree, was shewn me many years ago by the old and reverend minister of this parish, Mr. Richard
Brown." Description of Tweeddale, '26.

(m) Descript. of Tweeddale, 27. King James was crowned on Monday the 2oth of July 1603 ; being
the festival of St. James the apostle. How's Chron. 1011, 43G. This ascertains the day of this un-
common flood of the Tweed.

(o) Mr. Lewis Morris, a very intelligent Cambro-Britain, says, he had seen many MSS. containing
some of Myrddin's [Merlin] poetry, which, though it was written by a Pictish-Briton so long ago as
the sixth century, is intelligible to a person only tolerably versed in the Welsh. [MS. Celtic Remains.]
Myrddin's poetry in the ancient British language, may be seen in the Welsh Archaeology, lately
published b}' Owen. i. 154.

908 An ACCOUNT ICh. Yll.— Peeblesshire.

have been buried, according to the popular tradition, in the remotest part of
the Strathclyde kingdom, at the junction of the Tweed and Powsail (^j).

From monuments of the dead to stones of memorial, the transition is easy.
In Traquair parish there is a remarkable standing stone which is called the
Cross (</). Westward from this, on the southern side of the Tweed, there is
another upright stone near a hamlet which from it is named the Standing
Stone (r). In Manor parish, on Bollanrig, there is a large rude monument
which is known by the name of the Standing Stone, and which may have been
placed on Ballanrig as a memorial of some ancient conflict (s). On the
Sheriffmuir, the isthmus between the Lyne and Tweed, there are several
memorial stones as well as tumuli, which evince with still greater certainty
that a battle had here been fought during some age before inscriptions were
deemed necessary for transmitting the event (t). On Cade-mu'ir, in Peebles
pai'ish, there are several standing stones in the vicinity of some British
strengtlis (»). Yet in tr-eating of stones of memorial, we must always re-
member that in the good old times when the kings with their bishops and
barons went out personally to perambulate disputed boundaries, large stones
were often erected to ascertain the true limits, as we know from the chartu-
laries which speak of those stones as grandes lapides (x).

The strengths of the Britons are better preserved than the memorials of
their conflicts. In Peebles-shire there are many hill-forts. They ai'e gene-
rally placed in this district on the summits of the smaller and middling
hills, but not on the higher mountains. Their form generally approxi-
mates the circle, but is often made to suit the summit or the ground
whereon they are placed. Some of those strengths were surrounded with

(p) MS. Celtic Remains ; Owen's Cambrian Biography, and Leyden's Complaynt of Scotland, Intro.,
193-9.

{q) Companion to the map, 100. ()•) Ih., 102.

(>v) lb., 69. Armstrong had this so strongly in his head that he has called this place Bellon or
War-rig. (t) Stat. Acco., iii. 326.

(;() lb., xii. 10. The name of Cademmir pretty clearly intimates that the standing stones were
erected here to preserve the remembrance of some battle. Caclemiiir is merely a corruption of the
British Cad-maiir, signifying the great battle. Davis and Owen.

(a-) Such stones were sometimes called Cruces, which were probably the appropriate boundaries of
the church-lands. An agreement between the abbot of Kelso and the abbot of Melrose, about the
boundaries of Bolden, Eildon, and Darnwick, repeatedly mentions the Cruces, " que posita est,'' etc.,
and ■' que sita est." Chart. Melrose, No. 59. During the reign of Alexander IL, a charter of Alfric,
the daughter of Edgar, in desciibing the limits of some lands in Nithsdale, mentions le Criice, " que
dicitur Cruss gariauch, que est meta inter terram Canonicarum de Dercongal, et Derrangoram,' etc.
There is also mention of a cumiilum lapiJenm. lb., No. 103.

Sect. IV.— Its A ntiqtiilies.'] 0 r N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N. 909

only one rampart and fosse, while others of them have two, and some
have three. Their ramparts vs^ere mostly formed of the materials which were
thrown from the ditch, a mixture of earth and stones ; and where the stone
abounded, the ramparts were formed of stones without cement. On the hill
of Cademuir, in Peebles parish, there are four British strengths, which are all
of a circular form ; and one of them, that seems to have been intended to be
the strongest, is surrounded by a rampart of stones without cement. This
rampart, in part of its circumference, is double ; but where it is single, it is
of a prodigious thickness (//). In Peebles parish, on a round hill called Janet's
brae, there are two British strengths of a circular form, which are each sur-
rounded by a rampart and fosse (z). In the same parish, on the summit of
Meldun, a pretty large hill, there are the remains of a British strength in a
round form, and of considerable circumference. In the same parish, there are
the remains of several strengths of the same kind (a) ; particularly, one on the
hill above Hutchin-field, another near Hayston-craig, a third on the hill above
Wham, and a fourth on the hill called Ew-hill-rig (b). In Manor parish, there
are the remains of several British hill-forts, which are of a circular form ;
particularly two on Hound hill, one on Caver hill, one near Hudleshope, and
one on a small hill named the liiug knowe, the entrenchments whereof are called
the Rings (c). In Traquair parish, there are the remains of several British
forts, which are of a round form and are called Chesters (d). On a height
adjoining the village of Inverleithen, there are the remains of a British strength,
which appears to have been surrounded by three ramparts and fosses, that
secure an area of more than an English acre (e). In Eddlestone parish there are
the remains of several British forts. One of these, called Milkingstou Rings,
stands on a hill above Milkingston ; is of a circular form and is surrounded
l)y ramparts and fosses that are very entire. From Milkingston Rings, about
two and a half miles on the north, there is another British fort, called North-
shield Rings, on the summit of a hill at Northshield ; and there is another
hill-fort on the most northerly summit of Kings-seat-Edge (/). In Newlands

{y) Stat. Acco., xii. 9 ; and Companion, 92.

{z) Id. In the Stat. Acco., tlie name of Janets hill is blundered into Frineti.

(a) Stat. Acco., xii. 11. (6) Companion to the map, 92. (c) Companion, 69.

(cZ) Stat. Acco., xii. 378. Chester is applied to many British forts in the south of Scotland. The
Caer of the Britons was by the Romans called Castrum, and by the Anglo-Saxons Ceaster, which was
■softened to Chester. Verstegan's Antiq., 213 ; and Somner in to. The old English, says Lhuyd,
turned every Caer of ours into Ceaster, Chester, etc. Adversaria.

ye) Stat. Acco.. xix. 603. (/) Companion to the map. 40.

4 5X

910 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Yll.— Peeblesshire.

parish, there are the remains of several British torts on the tops of several hills.
One of these is on the summit of the Terrace hill, above the church (g) ; there
is another on Whiteside hills ; there are two other forts above Drochill which
are pretty entire (h) ; there is one of those forts on Hunderland hill ; and there
is another on Broad hill (t). On a rising ground above Linton there is the
remain of a British fort of a circular form ; and there was formerly the
remain of another such fort on the top of Lead law (k). In Kirkurd parish
there are the remains of several British strengths ; there is one of a circular
form called the Jlings, on an eminence near Ladyurd, and about two and a
half miles north-west from the Roman camp at Lyne ; and there is another
British strength called the Chesters, on the farm of Lochurd, to the west-
ward (Z) ; and there is another named the Green Castle,, on the hill above
Blyth {m). On a small hill called the Gallow law, near Skirling, there are the
remains of a British fort of a round form ; and there are the i-emains of another
such fort on a hill near Muirburn, in this parish {n).

Armstrong the surveyor was induced by his folly to laugh at the country
people who believe those British hill-forts to be Roman, because most of them
are called Chesters; and he is prompted l)y his ignorance to talk confidently
of those hill-forts being constructed " not only to secure cattle," but as ex-
ploratory camps to the lower forts. By the loioer forts he absurdly alludes to
the old towers of recent times, which were built during the anarchy which
succeeded the sad demise of Robert Bruce. The map-maker thus confounds
the open hill-forts of the earliest people with the close fortlets of the latest
proprietors. With the same absurdity he talks of the Druid temples being

(</) The hill is so called from having on its acclivities those singular works called Terraces. Penne-
cuick mentions this British strength as surrounded 113' a miupart of eurtli and stones, with its ac-
companying ditch ; as if, he adds, it had been some Roman garrison. Description, 16.

(h) These are the Chesters which are mentioned by Gordon in his Itinerary, as at Dorchill and
at Cowthrople. They are three statute miles north-north-west from the Roman camp at Lyne.
Armstrong mistakiugly asserts. '■ that Gordon imagines them to have been Eoman exploratory
castles." Companion, 76. On the contrary, Gordon refutes the notion of these and other British
forts in that part of the country being Roman, because they are of a round or oval form and
not rectangular, and have not the elegancy of workmanship which characterize the Roman
labours.

(i) Gordon's Itin. Septent., 11.5 ; Companion to the map, 74-6.

(k) Companion, 57. (/) Stat. Acco., x. 183.

{in) Gordon's Itinerary, 115. Gordon also mentions two circular forts on the Broomy-Law, west-
ward from Kirkurd parish, which seems to have been defaced before Armstrong's Survey in 1775.
Id. ; Companion, 53.

(») Companion, 94.

Sect. TV.— Its Antiquities.] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 911

constructed for the worship of Woden ; and with an extraordinarv stretch
of stupidity, he supposes some of the sepulchral tumuli of the ancient Britons
to have been erected " to direct travellers from one place to another (o)." The
popular tradition of the country, however, assigns those hill-forts, as well as all
the British works, to the Picts, who were ancient Britons, as we have seen.
Some of the less intelligent of the local antiquaries ascribe those very primitive
works to the Boman legionaries.

(Jonnected with the strengths of the Britons, are their wecqions for war.
Near to Lour, in Drummelzier parish, was found, a short while before the j-ear
1775, a stone axe, or British Celt (p). We have already seen that there was
discovered, in a British sepulchre, three flint stones, one whereof was formed
like a halbert (q). This was, no doubt, a large Celt, which resembles the head
of a halbert with its point broken off. About the year 1775, was found, near
some sepulchral tumuli in Linton parish, a short sword or poinard of brass.
In the King's muir, within a barrow, was discovered, as we have seen, an
inverted urn, containing, with the ashes of the warrior, the blade of his
dagger (r).

The Romans were undoubtedly the first people who came in upon the
British aborigines in this district. Neither of the great roads which that
enterprising people carried northward, with their Caledonian conquests, pass
through any part of Peebles-shire. The Watling-street, which courses from
Cumberland into Clydesdale, traverses the country within half a mile of the
western extremity of Peebles-shire, where there is a natural passage from the
Clyde to the Tweed. It was, probably, through this opening that the Romans
found their way, and kept up the connection, between their posts in Clydesdale
and their camps in Tweeddale.

There is a very strong Roman post on the eastern side of the Lyne, near to
Lyne kirk, and about ten miles eastward from the WatUng- street, as it traverses
Clydesdale. This camp was first noticed by Pennecuick, who says, the country
people call it Bandal's ivalls {^). It was next mentioned by Gordon, who idly
supposes it to have been one of the works of Severus. It was afterward sur-
veyed by Roy, who has left us an elaborate plan of Lyne camp (t). It next fell
under the inspection of Armstrong the surveyor, who has added some new

(o) Companion, 20-70. A sepulchral tumulus near East-Hartree, he says, " is probably Banish,''
and seems to have been either a burial mount or an object of direction through this luart^h// vale.
lb., 51.

(/;) Companion to the map, 34. (ry) Stat. Acoo., x. 186 (r) lb., xii. 15.

(.«.) Description of Tweeddale. it) Milit. Antiq., pi. xsviii.

912 An ACCOUNT [Oh. VII Peeblesshire.

notices to the intimations of Gordon (u). Ai-mstrong concurs with Pennecuick
in saying that this Eoman camp is called by the country people Randal's wall,
as Randolph, the Earl of Murray, is supposed to have built Lyne kirk and to
have had a house withm the camp. This camp, the surveyor says, is 495 feet
square, and contains six acres and two roods. The minister says the ground
within this camp has been often ploughed, and Roman coins are said to have
been frequently found within its area (x). In the count ly for several miles
round this Roman post there are various British hill-forts, which this camp was
probably designed to bridle on some hostile occasion which cannot now
be traced,

Fi-om the post at Lyne, about nine miles north-north-west, there are the
remains of a Roman camp on the northern side of Upper-Whitefield, in Linton
parish. This camp is in the form of a paralellogram, and is surrounded by a
single fosse and rampart, which are now nearly obliterated. Its dimensions,
says Gordon, are much the same with the Roman fort at Ardoch (y). From
the eagerness of this antiquarian tourist to connect Roman works with Romanno,
he states this Roman camp to be only one mile north-west from that place, but
it is, in fact, three and a half statute miles north of Romanno ; and there is not
the least vestige of any Roman remains at Romanno (z).

The minister of ]\Ianor informs us that there is in his parish a Roman camp
which is pretty entire, and in the neighbourhood of which were found on
digging some ground, a Roman urn and some ancient coins (a). It were to be

(h) Armstrong speaks particularly of the Frcetorium in the centre, and of the redoubt and the cause-
wa}- to the eastward. Companion, G4. In p. 22, however, he says. ■• we find no visible track to or
from Lyne camp." But the minister of Lyne says, positively, " that the road leading to it is still
visible, and runs through the present glebe." Stat. Acco., ii. 5G4.

(./•) Id. The last person who inspected this camp with an accurate eye was the late Mungo Park.
the African traveller, who kindly sent me his observations with some sketches, in October 1802.
Lyne camp, he says, is situated on a rising ground five miles west of Peebles, a little to the north of
the road to Glasgow, and about 600 yards west of Lyne kirk. It is in tolerable preservation, except
on the north side, where 112 yards of the trench have been filled up and ploughed, but the hollow is
still visible. This camp, considered as a military post, must have possessed considerable advantages.
From its elevation it must have been always dry and healthful; and being situated farther to the west-
ward than the places where the Lyne, the Manor, and Edlestane waters join the Tweed, it is evident
that the communication could be seldom inteiTupted by floods, even during the winter months, as the
troops could ford each of those streams, separately, with much more ease than after their junction.
Such is the solid sense of Mungo Park !

()/) Itinerary. 114; Companion to the map, 59. (j) Companion to the map, 74.

(a) Stat. Acco.. iii. Yet. no s^uch camp is intimated by Armstrong, who made his Survey
before the minister wrote his Account. The minister says it is at a small distance from a tower

Sect. lY.—Its Antiquities.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 913

wished that the minister had been more particular in the description of the
size, the form, and the situation of his camp, that we might have determined
from the circumstances whether it had been formed by Roman hands (b).

During the ninth century, the Britons of Strathclyde and of Tweeddale
appear to have been pressed upon by the Scoto-Irish on the west, and the
Scoto-Saxons on the east. Those several pressures were so much felt, that a
considerable emigration of Britons from both those countries to Wales took
place in 890 a.d. (c). By this emigration of the most enterprising Britons,
the kingdom of Strathclyde must have been greatly weakened ; and its govern-
ment was overpowered by the Scottish king in 974 a.J). (d). From this
epoch, the Scoto-Irish intermingled with the remaining Britons on the Upper
Tweed, not so much as hostile intruders, as fellow subjects of a congenerous
people (e). The Scoto-Irish people have, indeed, left many indications of their
settlements upon the Upper Tweed, by the number of their words that may
be now traced in its topography. There is, indeed, so great an analogy
between the sister dialects of the British and Irish speech, and so much of the
topographical language of Peebles-shire is common to both those languages, that
it is often diflficult to determine whether some names were originally applied
by the Britons, or, subsequently, by the Scoto-Irish. To that analogy may be
traced the cause why so many of the British words have remained within this
district in their first forms. The Scoto-Irish, knowing the significance of tlie
words, and seeing the fitness of their application to the sevei^al objects, allo\^ ed
them to remain, or new-modelled them to their purpose. The glen of the Irish

raised upon an eminence, commanding the best view in the parish. This tower is probably the lofty
ruin which stands on a steep knoll called Castle hill, three aud a half statute miles south-east from
Lyne camp.

(l>) An octangular vase of brass, nine inches in height, was dug up near Traquair, and was presented
by the Earl of Traquair to the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh. Acoo. of the Society, oo. But
the antiquaries have not settled to what people this curious vase belonged.

(o) See before, bk. iii., ch 5. (rf) Id.

(e) That the Scoto-L-isli interminged with the Britons here is apparent, from the tojwgraphy of
Peebles-sbire. In it we see Irish vocables grafted on British names. Inver-leithen was formed by
prefixing the Irish Inbher, which signifies an influx, on the British name of the river Leithen. This
formation, then, evinces that the Britons must have preceded the Irish ; as, indeed, we know was the
fact, from the tenor of the history of both those people. In the same topogi-aphy we may find the
Saxon dene pleonastically superinduced upon the Irish ;ilen, both signifying a deep narrow valley ; and
this indicates sufficiently that the Irish preceded the Saxons in this shire. The Saxon law, a hill, h.as
also been superinduced upon some of the Scoto-Irish names ; such as, Duill-a?'rf law, Sy-ard law, and
so of others.

914 An ACCOUNT [Ch. ML— Peebles-shire.

signiiying, as we have seen, a deep narrow vale, is merely the glyn of the
British, which may be seen very often on the map of this shire (f). The many
names which we thus perceive in every part of Peebles-shire with the prefix
glen, were all undoubtedly imposed by the Scoto-Irish people, with some
reference to the British glyn, which may have here existed before. The Irish
cnoc, signifying a hill, is merely the British cmvc, signifying a swelling, a knob,
and metaphorically, a hill, and is applied to many hills in Peebles-shire (g). The
Scottish people, who imposed their name knoc on so many hills in this district,
recognized the cnwc of the British, which signified the same thing ; but when
the Scoto-Saxon people formed so many pleonasms, by affixing hill to cnoc, they
did not understand the meaning of the word cnoc. The Irish druim, signifying
a ridge, is applied to several heights in Peebles-shire, and is still retained in
some names of places, as Z^rummelzier, Z>?'wmmaw. The Celtic dun, signifying
a hill, is retained in the names of several hills, as Z)«?idroich, the Druid's hiU,
Dunslair, Hannl-dun, Drider-t/(f/i of Pont, which is corrupted into the Dritet^ou
of Armstrong. Several of the smaller streams in Peebles-shire i-etaiu the name
of alt, which had been given them by the Scoto-Irish settlers, as Cvam-alt, the
winding rill, Garw-alt, the rivulet in Linton, and Gsxrw-alt in Inverleithen ;
and we may even now recognise the Irish poll, signifying a rivulet, in Poll-
mood, within Drummelzier, Po«'-sail, the vulgar pronunciation of Pol-sail, the
willow rill of Merlin's prophecy, Pol-a,n-taif, the bull's rivulet. Many other
names, which were applied by the Scoto-Irish settlers in Peebles-shire, still
remain, though some of them have been corrupted (A). A very long list of
Gaelic names of places in Peebles-shire might be given as the best evidence

(_/") Davis, and Owen. We may here see Glen-iaco, Glen-hreck, Gleii-vrhaip, which has been
changed to G/eji-whappen, G/e;i-uinfra, G/en-muick, G/en-keirie, Glen-achan. Glen-cotho, Glen-h-dvyey,
Gleii-\\ide, Glen-holra, Gteii-rnih, Gten-gaher. Glen, Gleii-hide, Glen-glaher, in Traquair, G/en-tress,
Glen-sax.

(g) The Welsh Diet. There are Knock hill, in Linton ; Knock hill, in Skirling ; Knock hill, in
Tweedsmuir; Knock knows, in Kirkurd. The word kiioiv, that is every where applied in Scotland
to a little hill, is merely the vulgar pronunciation of knoll, which is itself the British cno/l,
a hillock. Johnson gives the word kiwll, from Ainsworth ; but he did not know that the word is pure
British, and had been simply adopted into their speech by the Saxons, with many other British
■words.

[h) DmWard hill, in Pont, is corrupted by Armstrong into Dollar law ; Tarf water, in Pout, is
called Polintarf by Pennecuick ; Blairhog. in Pennecuik, has, by an absurd perversion, been called the
Whim, though the Scottish name was very descriptive of the soft mossj' field. Such whimsical men
as change the descriptive name of their places for La Manchu, and such like, do not reflect that they
are destroying the best evidences of their obscure history.

Sect. IV.— //..' . I ntiqnith-s.-] 0 F N 0 R T H - B K I T A I N. 915

how far the Scoto-Irish people had spread over this country, and how long they
had remained {i).

The Scoto-Saxons, as we have seen, may have pressed upon the Britons of
the Tweed from Selkirk, from Roxburgh, and from Lothian, during early times ;
but it is apparent, from the foregoing intimations, that the Scoto-Saxons came
in upon the Upper Tweed after the settlement of tlie Scoto-Irish there, as they
came in themselves upon the aboriginal Britons many an age after the Gadeni
had bravely fought for Tweedside with the Boman legionaries. The year 945
is the epoch when Malcolm I. became sovereign " of all Cumberland [k)." The
year 974 marks the period when the Britons of Upper-Tweed, as well as
in Strathclyde, ceased to govern themselves, as their government was then
suppressed by the superior power of Kenneth III., the son of Malcolm I.
The year 1020 is the era when Malcolm II. became sovereign of Lothian {I).
If the Scoto-Saxons came in upon the Upper Tweed subsequent to those dates,
tliey must have settled there gradually, by some right, as subjects, and not
forcibly, by conquest, as enemies. When, or by whatever title they came in,
the Scoto-Saxons ultimately prevailed in this district, and finally established a
permanent settlement among the Scoto-Irish and the descendants of the original
Britons (m). In Peebles-shire, the Celtic names, both British and Irish, bear a
mucli greater proportion to the Scoto-Saxon than in the more eastern counties
of Selkirk, Roxburgh, and Berwick. This superiority of Celtic to Teutonic
names undoubtedly proceeded from the long and late possession of the Britons
here, and from the thorough mixture of the Scoto-Irish among them, not
as enemies, but as friends, many a day before the Scoto-Saxons intermingled
with both, as fellow subjects of the Scottish kings. The Scoto-Saxon names of
places in this disti-ict are the same as those of Selkirk and Roxburgh (n), a

(j) Such as, GInck, in Manor parish ; Cloch. and Cloch hills, Crinyletie, Kilriihie, Calavairn. in
Eddlestone ; Inverleithen and Colquhar, in Inverleithen ; Kailzie, Fetheim, and Teniel, in Traquair ;
Clochmore, Craigdilly, and Syart, in Meorget ; Lour and Pateruan, in Drummelzier ; Gail-let, Ballaman,
Badlean. Badenhay, Badentry, Blairsheep. and Crai<jiii((d, in Twe.?dsiuuir ; Glcwk and Rathan, in
Glenholm ; Kiihucho and Blenewin;/. in Kilbucho ; Datjiadow, in Linton ; and Wham, in Peebles
parish.

{k) Saxon Chronicle. (/) Sim. of Durham.

[m) There are charters of Malcolm IV. and his brother William specially addressed to the Welsh
people of Strathclyde and Upper-Tweed. Caledonia, i., 353. Those charters evince, then, how low
down the descendants of the orij;inal Britains remained, as a known people, in some districts of
Peebles.

(//) Such as. law, a hill ; cleugh, a ravine ; dene, a valley ; skid, a pastoral habitation ; shaw. a
copse-wood : dod. which is applied to half a dozen hills, and is probably the same as the old English

916 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Yll.—Peebles-s/iire.

coincidence this, which evinces that the Scoto-Saxons came iu tVom the east,
and not through Dumfries-shire, where the Scoto-Saxon names of places are of
a somewhat different cast. Many of the Scoto-Saxon appellations iu Peebles-
shire are obviously grafted on the previous Scoto-Irish, and British names, in
pleonastic forms, by a people, who being of a different lineage, were luiac-
quainted with the prior names. This fact, then, evinces decisively that the
settlements of the Scoto-Saxons here were made in much more recent times
than the establishments of the original Britons, and the later colonization of the
Scottish people of Gaelic descent.

We have now traced four lineagjes of men into the well-watered vale of
Upper Tweed, — the Britons, the Romans, the Scoto-Irish and tlie Scoto-Saxons
• — yet it is very difficult to assign to each of them their appropriate antiquities,
particularly the terraces, which abound in this district. Of such works, the
most considerable are those on a beautiful green mount called Terrace hill
above Newlands. Along the whole face of this hill there are eleven or twelve
ten-aces, from fifteen to twenty feet broad, which rise by a regular gradation to
the top (o). Somewhat more than half a mile northward from Terrace hill,
there is a smaller mount called the Moot hill, which has sevei-al tiers of teri'aces
on it, and which, from its name, appears to have been appropriated in more
modern times for the administration of justice to a rustic people (p). At Kir-
kurd and at Skirling, the former three miles, and the latter seven and a half
miles from Terrace hill, there are the appearances of similar rows of terraces (q).
At Smithfield in the ^^cinity of Peebles there are also terraces (r) ; and
Pennecuick, after describing the terraces at Newlands, says, that there are
like terraces to be seen upon several other hills in Tweeddale (.s). When or by
whom those terraces were formed, it is not easy to ascertain. The tradition
among the inhabitants is that they were made by the Picts, to whom, like the
giants of other lands, the country people attribute all the more ancient works
that were formed by the Britons, who, as we have seen, were the proper

tod. a busli, or tuft ; lee, a field, a pasture-field ; ham, a dwelling ; and by, u habitation. Hope, a
little vale witliout a thorouglifare, is an old Nonnan-French word, as we may learn from Bullet, and
as we have seen ; and the word /wpe could not of course have existed here long before the arrival of
so many Anglo-Norman families under David I. It was in the same age that the Upper-Tweed
obtained the name of Tweedffa/?, and perhaps from the same people.

(o) Penneeuick's Description, IG. Gordon speaks, in his Itinerary, more Tnagnificently ; for a whole
mile, says he, it appears like a large amphitheatre, and may be seen at four or five miles distance.
And see the Companion to the map, 73.

(p) The Rev. Charles Findlater intimates as much in his MS. Note on the Companion, 73.

(q) Gordon's Itinerary, 115. ()•) Companion, 93. (s) Description, IC.

Sect. lY.—Its Antiquities.^ 0 f XO E T H - B R I T A I N. 917

Picts (t). From the example of the Catrail, we know that the Romanized
Britons were capable of undertaking and executing much larger works. But
whatever people did construct those terraces, they were evidently intended for
the accommodation of spectators to enjoy some sport of whatever kind,
though some of them were afterward appropriated to the administration of
justice (u).

From the terraces, we may naturally turn to the castles, which seem, indeed,
to have been built by the Scoto-Saxons. At Traquaii", the Scottish kings had
a castle in the twelfth century, where they occasionally resided for the pur-
pose of hunting in Traquair forest (x). It is not quite certain whether this
ancient castle stood on the site of Traquair house, which Pennecuick calls a
palace, and praises as stately. This building, which stands on the junction of
the Quair and Tweed, was obviously constructed in different ages. The oldest
part, as it is of great antiquity, and seems to have been a strong tower, was
doubtless the king's castle (i/). The modern part was built during the reign of
Charles I., by the great Earl of Traquair, the Lord Treasurer of Scotland, who
is pi'aised by Clarendon for his knowledge of affairs and skill in the manage-
ment of them. At Peebles there appears to have been an ancient castle on the
eminence which has been called the castle hill, on the point of land that is
formed by the junction of the Peebles water with the Tweed. There is no
notice of any existing ruin on this pleasant height, and the summit of the hill,
where once stood the castle, has been converted into a bowling-green (z).

On Wood hill in Manor parish, there are some remains of an ancient building,
which bears the name of Macheth's castle (a). There is a ruin in Broughton
parish which is also called MachetKs castle, and which tradition tells was the
well-known Macbeth {h). There were, however, considerable persons of this

(<) Gordon's Itinerary, 115. Armstrong considers the British hill-fort, on the summit of the
Temice hill, as an indication that the terraces were made by the Britons. The surveyor, we see, does
sometimes write with sense. Companion. 74.

(m) The plain below the terrace on the height at Markinch, in Fife, retains at this day the appro-
priate name of Playfiehl. Stat. Acco., xii., 552.

(x) From this castle several of the charters of William the Lion were dated.

{y) Description of Tweeddale, 39 ; Stat. Acco., 378 ; Companion to the map, 99. This castle, and
the forest about it, remained in the crown probably till the reign of Robert Bruce, who granted both
to his zealous suppoiter. Sir James Douglas. Robertson's Index. This forest came from the
Douglases to the Murrays. It returned to the crown by the forfeiture of William de Moravia, '•' the
outlaw Murray : '' and in 1478 was granted by James III., to James, Earl of Buchan, who transmitted
it in patrimony to James Stewart, his son. Crawfurd's Peerage, 480.

(--) Description of Tweeddale ; Stat. Account of Peebles ; and Companion to the map.

{a) Companion to the map, 70. {b) Stat. Acco., vii., 159.

4 5 Y

918 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Yll.—Peeblesshire.

name in Mid-Lothian under David I., particulai'ly Macbeth of Liberton (c) ; and
this pereonage may have had lands and a castle in Peebles-shire (d). Of Oliver
castle, the early residence of the Frasers in Peebles-shire, there exists only a
small remain to mark its site in Tweedsmuir parish. Oliver castle was pro-
bably erected here towards the end of the twelfth century, and was long the
residence of an influential family (e). On Fruid water in Tweedsmuir, there
are the remains of Fruid castle, where the Frasers also resided of old (/").
Drummelzier castle, which stood on the east bank of the Tweed, and which
Armstrong supposes to have been very ill to assail or defend, was also built
by the Frasers, probably in the twelfth century, from whom, by marriage, it
came to the Tweedies ((/). A mile north-north-east from Drummelzier castle
stands the ruins of Tinnis castle upon a pointed rock, which rendered it a more
safe retreat than the former ; and Tinnis castle was the residence of the
Tweedies, who domineered here through ages of anarchy (h). Neidpath castle,
which is also said to have been a residence of the Fi'asers and Tweedies, stantls
upon a projecting rock on the northern bank of the Tweed above Peebles (i).
This castle, as it has been inhabited in more recent times, is one of the com-
pletest specimens of such buildings, both as to its architecture and strength (A^).
The ruins of Shielgreen castle stand on an eminence in Peebles parish (Z).

(f) Chart. HoljTood. 11-28.

(d) In fact, Simon, the son of MacBeth, was sherifif of Traquair in 1184 A.D. Chart. Newbotle,
No. 30. A late proprietor caused this ruin to be searched for treasure and antiquities : but there was
only found by the search some pieces of old armour, and some coins of no great consequence, saith the
minister. Stat. Acco., vii. 159.

(e) Oliver, the son of Kylvert, granted to the monks of Newbotle a carucate of land and common
of pasture, within the manor of Hale. Chart. Newbotle, No. 81. To this grant, Jocelin, the bishop
Glasgow, from 1175 to 1199 a.d. is a witness. And this grant was confirmed by the nephew of
Oliver, Adam, the son of Udard Fraser ; and it is witnessed by Dominus Bernard Fraser. lb., 82.
Oliver, then, was a Fraser.

(f) Stat. Acco., viii. 89.

((/) Description by Pennecuick, 26 ; Companion by Armstrong, 32.

(A) Description, 26. Tweedie, saith Pennecuick. obliged all passengers " to strike sail, salute, and
pay homage to his hautiness." Armstrong, indeed, relates, from the tradition of the country people,
who delight in such tales, that King James V., who was not of a temper to bend to border chiefs,
passing this way, was challenged, and detained, by Tweedie, who easily obtained forgiveness on making
an apology. The king was perhaps pleased with the humour of this stout fellow, who domineered
over smaller men in a wild recess.

(i) lb., 30 ; Companion, 87 ; and there is a view of Neidpath castle in Grose's Antiq., ii. 222-3.

(k) The walls of this castle were formed of whin-stones, which were cemented by run lime, being
twelve feet thick. Companion, 87.

(I) lb., 92.

Sect.lV.— Its Antiquities.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 919

Horsburgh castle is also a strong tower, which is pleasantly situated on a
height in Inverleithen parish, on the northern bank of the Tweed. Such were
the principal strengths which the Scoto-Saxons built of " stane and lyme,"
within Peebles-shire in ancient times {m). Those ancient towers were all
extremely like each other, in situation, in construction, and in use. They were
generally placed on an eminence of difficult access. They were commonly three
or four stories high, the lower floor being vaulted with walls eleven or twelve
feet thick of stone cemented by lime, which are now as firm as a rock. The
entrance into the lower storey was secured by a strong wooden door, which was
strengthened by an iron gate within. The invention of gun-powder and artillery
rendered such towers as useless as fortlets, as they had always been incon-
venient as dwellings. Some antiquaries suppose that a continued series of
those towers was built upon a systematic plan along the Tweed, from its source
to its issue. It is, however, sufficiently obvious that those several towers were
all built at successive times by distinct proprietors, for their residence and
safe-guard, during a long period of tumultuous times {n). Drochil castle,
indeed, which was begun on the Lyne water in Newlands parish in 1578, was
left by the Regent Morton, who fell under the axe in June 1581 ; but this
large edifice was designed, saith Pennecuick, more for a palace than a castle,
and now exhibits in its mighty ruins the disgrace of its ambitious founder (o).

§ V. Of its Establishment as a Shire.] The thirteenth century had almost
expired before the several districts on the Upper Tweed were formed into
one shire, or constituted a sheriffdom. The earliest charter of David I. in

(m) There were, indeed, in this country a number of other strong towers, which are of more recent
erection during anarchical ages. In Inverleithen parish, there are the tower of Nether-Horsburgh
and the Peel-house of Ormiston ; and there were castellated houses at Caverstone, at Purvis hill, and
Inverleithen. In Traquair parish there are several ruins of strong towers. There is one at Cardrona,
which is almost entire ; and there are others at Bold, and at Grieston. There was a tower at Lyne.
There were such castellated strengths at East-Happrea, at East-Dawik, and at Drevah, in Stobo.
There was a tower in Manor parish, on a lofty knoll called the Castle hill. There was a Peel-house at
Lour, in Drummelzier. There are still the remains of ten towers in Broughton. The mansion-house
of Hartree, in Kilbuko, is merely an old tower repaired. In Glenholm there are no fewer
than six old castles. In Tweedsmuir, there are the remains of a strong tower at Hawkshaw,
which was the residence of an old family of the name of Porteous. In Megget parish, there were
two towers, one at Cramalt, and the other at Henderson, the residence of Cockburn, the king of the
thieves.

(7i) Companion to the map, 21 ; Stat. Acco., x. 12.

(o) Description, 16 ; Companion to the map of Peebles, 75-6.

920 Ax A C C 0 U N T [Oh. \ll.~Peebtes-skire.

1118 A.D., describes this country by the name of Tueddal (p). Malcohn IV.,
who died in 1165, speaks ol the same country by the name of luededale {q).
We perceive, then, that neither of those kings, when thinking and writing of
Tweeddale, had within their contemplation a shire (/■).

We know, however, that thei'e were two sheriffs in Tweeddale during the
subsequent reign — one at Traquair, and another sheriff at Peebles, owing to
the co-existence of two royal castles in Tweeddale at Traquair and at Peebles,
having each an appropriate jurisdiction. The first sheriff in Tweeddale whom
my researches have discovered, is Symon, the son of Macbeth, who was
rict'comes de Travequeyr in 1184 (s). The first sheriff of Peebles whom I have
found in the chartularies, was John, vicecomes de Pehhlis in November 1227 {i).
The second sheriff' of Traquair, whom I have seen in the chartularies, is Gilbert
Fraser, who held a court for deciding a contest about some lands in Stobo,
between William, the bishop of Glasgow, and Mariota, the daughter of Samuel.
This law-suit was carried by the king's precept before Gilbert Fraser, " tunc
vicecomes de Travquer ; " and Mariota resigned her claim to the lands in
contest, "in curia vicecomitatu de Travequer (?<)." There is a very curious
precept of Alexander II., which is addressed to his sheriff and bailies of
Traquair, commanding them to imprison all excommunicated persons within
their jurisdictions [x). The second sheriff' of Peebles, whom I have perceived

{p) Chart. Kelso, No. 1. {q) Diplom. Scotise, pi. xxiv.

(»•) In Dugdale's Monast., i. 399, there is a charter of Alexander de Trevaquer, which is witnessed,
among other iuh;ibitants of Traquair, " Roberto Vicecomite," and which seems to be of the age of
David I. This Eobert, then, was no doubt the kings sheriff of Traquair.

(«) Chart. Newbotle, 30. Nisbet, indeed, talks of the Erasers being great proprietors here, and
sheriffs of Traquair, during the reign of Malcolm IV. : but he does not produce any authority for such
assertions, except the interested fictions of the decapitated Lord Lovat. Heraldr}-, ii. App., 114:
Shaw's Moray, 133.

(t) He was one of the witnesses who were present in the church of Peebles, at the determination of
a controversy between Walter, the Bishop of Glasgow, and William, the abbot of Paisley. Chart.
Glasgow, 181.

(») lb.. 275. We are to remember, for settling the epoch of this contest, that William was bishop
of Glasgow from 1233 to 1258. Gilbert Fraser, the sheriff of Traquair, was a witness to a charter of
Eugine, the son of Amabill, resigning his right to the same William, bishop of Glasgow, in the manor
of Stobo. lb., 279. As sheriff of Traquair, Gilbert was again a witness iu a charter of Christian;),
granting lands to the church of St. Mary during the reign of Alexander III., and the prevalence of the
Comyns. lb.. 445.

(,(■) This precept, which the king commanded to be published in all his bailiewick of Traquair. was
dated the 15th July, 1242. lb., 235. There remains another precept of Alexander II., whinh was
dated somewhat earlier perhaps, addressed to John de Yallibus, the sheriff of Edinburgh, Gilbert Fraser,

Sect, v.— /<« Establishment as a Shire.] OrNOETH-BEITAIN. 921

in the chartularies was Simon Fraser, who was sheriff of Peebles before the
year 1263 {y). He witnessed a deed in favour of the monks of Kelso in
1266 (z). This Simon Fraser, who is called the father in the records of that
period, was a peison of great property and power in Peebles-shire, was one
of the Magnates Scotice at the demise of Alexander III. ; and, by the name of
Simon Fraser, was the only Fraser who sat in the parliament which met at
Brigham on the 12th of March 1289-90, being the only Fraser, probably,
who then held lands in chief of the crown («). On the 12th of June 1291, he
swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick (b) ; and he died soon after, retaining
undoubtedly till his decease the office of sheriff of Peebles (c). Simon
Fraser's lands, and perhaps his sheriffship, and certainly his consequence,
descended to his son Simon, who was equal to the father as a statesman, and
superior to him as a soldier. When so many of the Scottish chiefs were in the
power of Edward I., Simon Fraser was his prisoner in 1296; and in 1297,
among greater men of his country, Simon Fraser engaged to serve the English
king in his foreign wars (d). He probably never executed his involuntary
engagement. He fought strenuously against Edwai'd in 1302. The English
king would no longer hear of pardon for this enterprising warrior, and again
getting him in his power, at the battle of Methven, he ordered him to be put to

the shei'iff of Trauequwjr, N. de Heiis, forestar, and W. de Penn3-cok, commanding them with the
honest men of the country to ascertain the extent of the pasture of Lethanhop, with the pertinents,
and to return the same, with the yearly value thei'eof, to him, by their writ, signed and sealed.
Chart. Newbotle. 130.

(y) Simon Fraser was a witness to a charter of Alexander III., which was dated at Ti-aquair on the
12th of December 1264. Diplom, Scotiae, pi. 36. There is a precept of Alexander III., addressed to
Simon Fraser on the 25th of July 1263, directing him to pay yearly to the hospital of Soltre, half a
chalder of oat-meal out of the mill of Peebles. Chart. Soltre, 8.

{z) Chart. Kelso, 189. (n) Rym. Foed., ii. 471.

{h) Rym. Feed., ii. uflT. Simon Fresthell, probably Simon Fraser, the son, swore fealty to Edward
at Lindores, on the 22d of July 1291. lb., 570.

(f) On the loth of January 1291-2, Edward I. granted to WilUam, the son of John Comyn, durincr
pleasure, the keeping of the forests of Trequer and Selechirche, with the pertinents, in the same
manner as Simon Fraser, lately deceased, had the keeping of the same. Eot. Scotiae, 7. On the 18th
of June 1292, Edward appointed William de Peret to be sheriff of Trequeyr. lb., 8. These notices,
from the Record, prove the death of Simon Fraser, the Father, in 1291, and convey the latest intima-
tion of a sheriff of Traquair.

(d) Eym. ii., 769 ; and for his faithful performance, he pledged his wife and his children and all
that was his. His cousin, Eichard Fraser, entered into the same engagement. Id.

922 An account [Cb. YU.— Peebles-shire.

death in 1306 (e). The two sheriifs of Tweeddale probably continued through-
out the disastrous times which succeeded the sad demise of Alexander III. In
1304 Edward I. undoubtedly appointed Ademar de Valence, the Earl of Pem-
broke, and his heirs to be sherifi of Peebles ( /).

Yet when Edwai'd I., by his well-known ordinance, settled the government
of Scotland in 1305, he considered Peebles as a sheriHwic, and appointed for
his sheriflf Robert de Hasting (g). The sheriftwic of Traquair had before that
memorable epoch become merged in the sheriffdom of Peebles. The forest,
castle, and bailliewick of Traquair, were granted by Robert Bruce to Sir James
Douglas, but it does not clearly appear to whom that great prince gave the
office of sheriff" of Peebles (/i). In 1334 Edward Baliol conveyed to Edward
III., " Villam, et castrum, et comitatuni de Pebles " (i).

The Hays of Locherworth certainly became sheriffs of Peebles before the
beginning of the fifteenth century (k). This family appears to have enjoyed
this office hereditarily beyond the accession of King James to the English
throne. Sir William Hay, the slienff of Peebles, married Johanna, the eldest
daughter of Hugh Gifford, with whom he obtained the barony of Yester. His
grandson John, Lord Hay of Yester, continued sheriff of Peebles from 1462

(e) That eminent man, who was probably sheriff of Peebles, at his death, did not leave a son to
avenge his fall ; but he left two daughters, the one of whom manied Sir Patrick Fleming, and the
other Sir Gilbert Hay of Locherworth, the progenitor of the Marquis of Tweeddale ; and both Fleming
and Hay quartered in their armorial bearings the cinque foils of the Frasers. Officers of State, 272 ;
Nisbet's Essay on Armories, 98, pi. iii.

(/) Abbrev. Kot. Origin., 151. (</) Ryley's Placita, 505.

(A) Douglas says, indeed, that it was granted by him to Sir Patrick Fleming, who had married one
of the daughters of Simon Fraser, quoting for this intimation a charter in the archives of the Marquis
of Tweeddale. Peerage, 695 ; but the Record, at least Robertson's Index, is silent as to such a
charter.

(t) Rym. iv., 615. Of that great concession, Edward III. immediately received seisin, and he, at
the same time, appointed Gilbert de Bourghdon sheriff of Peebles. Tb., 6 1 7.

(/.) Sir William Hay, who was appointed one of the Scottish commissioners in 1409, to treat
of peace with England, was called " Vicecomes de Peeblis." Rym. viii., 548. The office became
hereditary in this family. In May 1491, Christian Hay the widow and executrix of Thomas
Hay, the late sheriff-depute of Peebles, pursued in parliament Thomas Tweedie and others,
for debts severally owing by them to her husband. Pari. Rec, 406-7, 420. In 1503 Lord
ZestiT was sheriff of Peebles. Balfour's Practicks, 16 ; and Camden, at a later period, in speaking a
few words of this shire, subjoins that •• it hath for the sheriff thereof Barou Zeister." Holland's
Camden, 10.

^eci.N.—Tts EstaMisJivfMt as a Shire.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 923

till 1509, when he died (/). The Hays of Yester thus enjoyed the office of
sheriff of Peebles throughout three centuries, till John, the second Earl of
Tweeddale, sold it, in 1686, with his whole estates in Tweeddale, to William,
Duke of Queensberry, who settled the office and estates on his second son, the
Earl of March {m). In 1724, the Earl of March was hereditary sheriff of
Peebles (n); and this office he held till 1747, when all heritable jurisdictions
were abolished by a wise policy (o).

There does not seem to have been, in early times, any regalities in this
sheriffdom, to diminish the power or restrict the jurisdiction of the sheriff.
There appears to have been only one at the epoch of the suppressing of such
unfit authorities. David II. granted to William Douglas the lands of Kllbothock
and Newlands, on the resignation of John Graham of Dalkeith (p). Robert II.
granted to James Douglas of Dalkeith, on the resignation of his father, the
barony of Kilhothock and Newlands, with the barony of Linton-Rotherick, in
Peebles-shire [q). Pennecuick asserts, without quoting his authority, that
Kilbucho was erected into a regality for Lord Haltree, one of the senators of
the College of Justice, the granduncle of Dickson of Kilbucho (?•). But, when
the lawyer's descendant claimed £1000 for the regality of Kilbucho, his claim
seems not to have been allowed by the proper judges (s). Linton is said by
Pennecuick to have been a burgh of regality. The Earl of March, he adds, is
now lord of this regality, and distributes justice by his sheriff-depute. The
Earl of March claimed nothing for the regality of Linton, but was allowed a
compensation for the regality of Newlands {t). James Montgomeiy, of tlie
family of Magbiehill, who rose to be Chief Baron of the Excliequer, was
appointed the first sheriff of Peebles-shire, after the abolition of the heritable
sheriffiioms, at a salary of a hundred and fifty pounds a year [u). Such, then,

(/) He was created Lord Hay of Yester, on the 29tli of January 1487-8. Pari. Rec, 32.5. In
June 1493, the lords auditors of parliament ordained John, Lord Hay of Yester, the sheriff' of Peebles,
to put in execution the letters directed to him, to distrain Thomas Middlemast for 27i marks owing
to Sir James Criohton of Cairns, and to cause the same to be paid to Sir James, as he undertook, in
presence of the lords, and if he should fail in doing this, the lords ordered letters to be issued to
distrain the sheriff's own goods for the same. Pari. Rec, 381.

{m) Douglas Peer., 682. (n) MS. Paper OflBce.

(y) For the sheriffship of Peebles be claimed £4,000 ; for the regality of Newlands, £1.500, and
he was allowed for both, £3,418 4s. 3d. List of Claims, 8.

{p) Robertson's Index, 54. {q) lb., 121 ; Hay's 'Vindication, 24.

(j-) Description, 28. («) List of Claims, 12. {t) lb., 8.

(«) Scots Mag.. 1748, 155.

924 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \U.— Peebles-shire.

are the notices which, by carrying the mind back to the times that are long
passed, show the origin of the office, the rise of the abuse of an hereditary
officer, and the final establishment of a regimen, having the common good for
its salutaiy end.

§ YI. Of its Civil History.'] From the survey of the antiquities of Tweed-
dale, we have seen how many remarkable events must have happened here
during very early times. From the notices with regard to the establishment of
the sheriftHom over Tweeddale, we have perceived some of the most noted of
its civil transactions. From the many towers and fortlets which have been
erected through this country during the Scoto-Saxon period, we may easily
conceive what feuds must have existed among irascible barons, and how much
kindred blood may have been spilt in Tweeddale, though such " bloody facts "
did not rise to the dignity of civil war. Tweeddale was too distant from the
scene, and too well defended by defiles and forests, to have been much
involved in border conflicts ; and even during the succession war, Tweeddale
sutiered little from the contests between Bruce and Baliol, and little more
from the inveterate and long-continued collisions between the sister kingdoms,
for Scotland's independence. Owing to the midland position of Peebles-shire,
it lay out of the ti'ack of the invading or retreating armies, either on the east or
on the west.

The only representative whom Tweeddale can be said to have had in the
great pai'liament of Brigham, whose resolutions involved so many interests, was
Simon Fraser, the sherift'. The Frasers, who influenced Peebles-shire, were all
connected with Baliol, and supported his claims («). When John Baliol was
obliged to submit to a power which he could not resist, Tweeddale submitted to
Edward I., in August 1296 (y). Nor did the people of Peebles-shire partake
much in the gallant struggles of Simon Fraser, the younger, for his country's
rights. They shared in the fortune of Kobert Bruce. They were involved in

(r) John Baliol appointed the Frasers as his nominees for supporting his pretensions against Eobert
Bruce. Rym. ii., 553.

{y) lb., 654. In 1292 Edward I. had already confided the keeping of the forests of Treqiier ^ndi
Selechirclie to the charge of William, the son of John Comyn. Aylofife's Calendar, 107. In 1304
Edward I. granted to Ademar de Valence and his heirs, both Traquair and Peebles. Abbrev. Bot.
Orig., 151. In opposition to this grant. Robert I. gave Traquair, with its pertinents, to Sir
James Douglas. Roberts. Index, 10. This fact explains the reason why we hear no more of a sheriff
of Traquair.

Sect.Vl.— Its Ciuii History.] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. !)2o

the misfortunes of Edward Baliol (2;). They were, no doubt, freed from this
subjection by the valorous exploits of Sir William Douglas, the first earl, who
fought for the great estates, which good Sir James Douglas had left after all his
conflicts. The English are said to have regained possession of Peebles-shire
after the battle of Durham in 1346 ; and the people of this shire were
finally freed from the English yoke by the tardy restoration of David II. to
his liberty, rather than his independence, in 1357. Of the sad effects which
were the necessary result of so much warfare and devastation throughout
seventy years, from a comparison of the value of the lands in Peebles-shire at
different periods : — *

According to the ancient extent, the rental was - - £1,274 18 G
According to the true value in 1368, - - - - 8G3 13 4 (a).

From those general views of the whole shire, we may now throw our eyes on
the shire town. The name of Peebles implies that some habitations were placed
on the isthmus, which is formed by the junction of Peebles water with the Tweed
during British times, and we may even suppose this isthmus to have been thus
early the commodious site of a Gadeni town. At the commencement of the
Scoto-Saxon period, thei'e was, undoubtedly, here a village, a church, a mill,
and a brewhouse {h) ; and thei'e were here, as early perhaps, a royal castle,
with a chapel and other accommodations, which a town can only supply (c)
It was the desire of sport, rather than security, that induced the Scottish kings
to erect a castle on this commanding situation. We have already seen how
early the king had a sheriff, whose jurisdiction appears to have been co- extensive
with the constabulary, which seems to have been bounded by a similar jurisdic-

(;) In 1334, Edward Baliol transferred his rights, in Peebles-shire, to Edward III. Rym., iv.
615-17.

(a) MS. Paper OflSce. In more modern times, the sheriff of Peebles only accounted yearly in the
Exchequer for £327 14s. ; and even this sum was lessened, by several deductions, to £206 .5s. ; so
that there was a difference between the old rental and the present rental of 1668 a.d. of £121 9s.
Sol. Gen. Purvis MS. The valued rent of the shire of Peebles in 1657 a.d. was £51,878 13s. Scots
money, or £4,323 4s. 5d. sterling. The rental of 1794 is estimated at £19,168 sterling, which is
probably a good deal under the truth. Agricult. View, 17.

(i) The Imjnisitw of Earl David, 1 116 A.D., found that there had belonged to the bishop of Glasgow,
\n Peebles, " una caraueata tense, si ecclesia.'' Chart. Glasgow, 1. Soon after the establishment of
the bishopric, the bishops of Glasgow appear to have obtained the whole ecclesiastical rights, while
the king retained the demesne of Peebles. See Chambers' Peeblesshire, 1864.

(c) Joceline, the bishop of Glasgow, from 1175 to 1199, confirmed to the monks of Kelso,
" capellum castelli de Peebles," with a carucate of land adjacent, and a rent of ten shillings " de firmi
burgi de Pebles." Chart. Kelso, 451.

4 5 Z

926 AnACCOUNT [Ch. YlL—Peehles-shtre.

tion of larger extent. From the earliest record, we ma}' perceive that Peebles
was a town of the royal demesne, which yielded a firm into the royal ex-
chequer {d). The kings resided occasionally at Peebles till the sad demise
of Alexander III., who left it marks of his munificence {e). The town with
prepossessions for Baliol, was involved in the contests for the succession to the
crown. It was compelled, after the premature abdication of John Baliol, to
submit to Edward I.'s usurpation ( /"). We may thus perceive the form of the
government of Peebles at this disgraceful epoch. As the king's town it was
governed by his bailiff with certain burgesses, who held the town in firm of
the king. In 1304, Edward I. certainly granted to Adomar de Valence the
warden of Scotland, and to his heirs, " burgum nostrum de Pebbles, cum
molendinis," and other pertinents {g). On the contrary, there is a charter
of Robert I., " burgi de Peebles, super libertatem nundinarum {h)," but
when it became a royal burgh, with special privileges, is uncertain. It is cer-
tain, however, that it sent two representatives to the parliament of 1357, which
was called to ratify and provide the ransom of David II. (i). David II. granted
Peebles a charter, dated the 20th September 1367, which made it a royal
burgh, and which was confirmed by a charter of James II., and by another
from King James VI. in 1621 (k). Robert Bruce conferred on this burgh

(d) There are many remains here of the royal residence, during ancient times, in the names of places
about the town. There are the king's house, the king's orchards, the king's meadow. Companion
to the Map, 84, which has a plan of the town. Stat. Aooo., v. 15. On the loth of December 1292,
Edward I. issued a mandate to William Clausum, "Jirmario burgi, et molendinorum de Peebles,''
directing the £28, which he owed as the arrear of the firms of the said burgh and mills, to be
paid to the executors of William de Dunfres, the late chancellor of Scotland. Rot. Scotiae, 13.
He issued a similar mandate to Thomas de Halywell, " firmario molendinorum de Trakeweir,"
directing the payment of £20, which he owed as arrear of the firm of the said mills to the said
executors. Id.

(e) Pennecuick's Description, 33.

(/) On the 28th of August 1296, William de la Chaumbre, the bailif, several burgesses, and " tote
la comunate de Peebles," with John, the vicar of the church, swore fealty to the English king at
Berwick. Prynne, iii., 654. Many other inhabitants of Peeblesshire " came to meet him, and bowed
themselves to the ground before him." lb., 655-6-9. The king's tenants of the county of Peebles are
specially named. lb., 656. We have already seen that such tenants of the king held in demesne, and
not in capite.

(jr) Abbrev. Sot. Origin., 151. (h) Eoberts. Index. 15.

(i) Eym. Foed., vi., 44. Peebles stands among the burghs, the seventeenth and last on the list.
Its representatives on that occasion, and perhaps the first, were Nicholas, the son of John ; and John,
the son of William.

{k) From all those chai-ters, the constitution of this burgh is formed of a provost, two bailies,

Sect. VI.— /r* Civii Historij.'] OFNOETH -BRITAIN. 927

a free market. David II. granted to John Grey, the clerk register, the
burrow mrt*7s of Peebles. In 1369 David gave to the same person the whole
firm, and issues " hxirgi de Peblys," except those which belonged to the
Chamberlain Air (i). In 1543 the town, and Lord John Hay of Tester,
amortized to St. Andrew's kirk in Peebles four-and-twenty marks, with a
chamber and a yard (F). At the Reformation in 1560 there were granted
to the corporation by Queen Mary several lands in its vicinity, and fishings
in its rivers, with a toll upon the bridge below the town (l). Doctor Penne-
cuick, as a poet, has outdone his own topography in his description of
this town (m) :

•' Peeblis, the metropolis of the shire,

" Six times three praises do from me require ;

" Three streets, tliree ports, three bridges, it adorn,

" And three old steeples, by three churches, bom ;

" Three mills to serve their town, in time of need,

" On Peebles water, and the river Tweed.

" Their arms are proper, and point furth their meaning,

" Three salmon fishes nimbly counter-sweeming."

In later times the burgli of Peebles sought and received the protection of
parliament (n).

At the commencement of the Scoto-Saxon period, if not earlier, the Scottish
kings had the forest of Traquair in this district, with a castle on the isthmus,
which is formed by the junction of the Quair witli the Tweed. We first see it
mentioned iu record under David I. (o). In the castle here, the successoi-s of

a dean of guild, a treasurer, eleven councillors, and one deacon. The whole corporation, con-
sisting thus of seventeen members. The yearly income of this corporation is £272 10s. !)d sterling.
Report of the Committee of the House of Commons, 1793. In 15.56 Peebles, in people and
wealth, ranked with Selkirk, Dunbar, Lauder, and other towns of a similar insignificance, as we
may infer from the assessment of that year in Gibson's Glasgow, 87. The eflluxion of a century
and a half did not much change its i-elative situation. In this period it had fallen a little below Sel-
liirk, and risen something above Dunbar and Lauder, as we may learn from the assessment of the year
lt>95. lb., 103. Some of the royal burghs were, however, of a still lower order than those
feeble towns.

()■) Roberts. Index. (53-85 : Regist. David II., lib. i. 198. (,{■) MS. Donations.

{I) This bi'idge is of five arches, and seems to have been built in eai'ly times, but by whom is
unknown. (n*) Description, 31.

(n) In .Tune 1640 there passed a ratification in favour of the burgh of Peebles. Unprinted Act.
There was a /irotestation of Lord Yester against the ratification to the town of Peebles. Id. There
was also a protestation of the town of Peebles against the ratification of the Earl of Traquair. Id.

(o) David I. granted to the monks of Melrose, in his forests of Selkirk and Traquair, pasturage.

928 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. YIL— Peebles-shire.

David resided occasionally till the demise of Alexander III. (^>). There was
a bailliewick of considerable extent, which was appurtenant to this castle, as we
know from record. There was also of old a considerable village, which had
arisen under the shelter of the royal castle (q). We may easily suppose that
the town of Traquair enjoyed much merriment and prosperity while the kings
so often resided here throughout the whole Scoto-Saxon period. In 1304
Edward I. granted to Adomar de Valence, the manor of Traquair, which then
appears to have been more opulent and populous than Peebles itself (r). Robert
Bruce granted to Sir James Douglas the ro3'al forests of Selkirk, Ettrick, and
Traquair as a free barony (s). This forest of Traquair, which was the object
of so much desire and of grant, remained, no doubt, in the family of Douglas
till the forfeiture of the earl under James II. Being in the crown the barony
of Traquair was granted in 1478 by James III. to James Stewart, the Earl
of Buchan, who transferred it in 1491 to his second son, James Stewart, the
progenitors of the Earls of Traquair (t). Besides the barony there seem to have
been other lands within the forest which were granted to other proprietors.
The outlaw Murray, William de Moravia, had forfeited the lands of Trakware
before the year 1464, as they were then granted to William Douglas of Cluny,
being in the crown by the forfeiture of the outlaw (it). David II. granted the
hondage-Iands of Traquair to William Maitland (x). Doctor Pennecuick speaks
rapturously " of the pleasant place, or rather palace of Traquair " (>/) :

'• On fair Tweedside. frotii Berwick to the Bield,
'• Traquair, for beauty, fairly wins the field ;
" So many charms by nature and by art,
" Do there combine to captivate the heart."

and pannage and wood, and other materials, as freely as he himself enjoyed those easements to his
proper use. Diplom. Scotise, pi. xiv.

(/)) There are two charters to the monks of Cupar by Malcolm IV., which bear to have been
granted at TretJcquer. Chart. Cupar, 1-2. There are eight charters of William the Lion which
appear to liave been granted at Trareqnar. There are some of Alexander II.'s chartei-s dated at the
same place, and there are grants of Alexander III. dated at Traquair. Diplom. Scotise, pi. 3G.

{q) In 1334 David 11. granted to Eichard Halywell the hosti/an'e of Traquair. which John Craig
had forfeited. Robertson's Index, 57. The same hnMilarie was granted to Ade Forrester by
Robert II. lb., 124. David II. granted to Rodger Wodyfield twenty librates of land, with a bunjage
in the town of Traquair, which had been impignorated to him by Janet, the daughter of Walter de
Moffet. lb., 77. Traquair is now a small hamlet in the centre of this extensive parish, with a public
house at the mill. Companion to the Map, 99.

(r) Abbrev. Rot. Origin., 151. {s) Roberts. Index, 10. (0 Douglas Peer., 94-G73.

(tt) Autograph in the hands of the late Andrew Plummer, the sheriff of Selkirk.

(x) Roberts. Index, 37. ()/) Description of Peebles-shire.

Sect. VI.— /;.s- Civil Hisfor;/.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 929

The bush ahoon 'Traquair has, however, captivated other poets. This celebrated
bush, as it should seem, has dwindled to five lonely trees, comprehending all
that remains to mark the spot which was so often propitious to the loves of
the Murrays and Stewarts during more pastoral times (a).

Peebles-shire felt the effects of misrule during the long period of anarchy,
from the burdensome I'estoration of David II. to the sad demise of James III. {h).
Peebles-shire equally partook of the disasters of Floddon-fiield (c). During the
perturbed minority of James V., the tumults of the reformation, the civil wars
of the four regencies, Peebles-shire may be said to have languished in its wretched-
ness rather than to have been wasted by war {d). Yet are there reasons to
suppose that the gentry of Peebles-shire lived, during those unhappy times, in
more comfort than we might be led to suppose from general notices. The
Parliamentary Record evinces this state of manners, while it exhibits so many

{n) Stat. Acco.. xii. 378. Yet are we told that the late Earl of Traquair displayed his taste by
planting a clump of firs, in order to perpetuate tlte hush abnon Truqnair, that is sacred to song.
Companion to the Map, 1 00.

(/>) After a successful faction had brought James III. to an untimely grave, the first parliament of
his infani successor, when the partition of the whole kingdom was to be made among the triumphant
insurgents, delivered Peebles-shire to the domination of the Earl of Angus, with Selkirk and other
counties. Pari. Eec, 337.

(c) In October 1513, the general council of the state, sitting at Perth, ordained that if any breach
of the king's peace be committed within the sheriffdom of Tweeddale. letters be written to the sheriff,
charging him to reform the same : and if he be not of suflicient power to punish the peace-breakers,
that he call to his aid the Earl of Angus, the Earl of Morton, Lord Home, and Lord Borthwick.
Pari. Eec, 530. In January 1513-14, the same general council, sitting at Edinburgh, ordained, for
good rule among the king's lieges in Tweeddale. that all the headsmen, both in town and country,
landed and unlaiided, both of the rai/alti/ and rei/a/ili/, should compear before the lords of the council,
on the 27th of the same month, upon tlie pain of treason. lb., 540.

(rf) The preamble of King James's charter to the town of Peebles in 1621, states, indeed, "that the
people of this borough had not only struggled with secret and open oppressions in the borders of
England and Scotland ; their citi/ being often plundered, burnt, laid waste, and rendered desolate."
This description of ruin would suit well enough some of the towns on the Lower Tweed ; but
cannot literally be true as to any town on the Upper Tweed. In 1549, indeed, Peebles was burnt by
Englishmen, ?ays Birrel. Diary, 4. The 10th of October 1567 was the day appointed bv the
regent, to rendezvous in Peebles, for going against the MiVi'c? of Annandale and Eskdale. lb., 12.
In June 1568, the regent passed out of Edinburgh with 2,000 men, to Biggar ; and on the morrow,
the place of Skirling, by his command, was blown up with gunpowder. lb., 16. On the 1st of
May 1571, there seems to have been a conflict between the contending factions of the queen and
regent at Tushielaw. lb., 19. On the 14th of July 1604, a great fire happened in Peebles town.
Birrel's Diary.

930 A N A C C 0 U N T. [Cli. VH.— Peebles-shire.

exact views of feeble justice and jienurious economy (6). The condition of the
people was not much meliorated throughout the infancy of James V., and the
violences of the Reformation. During the peaceful reign of James VI., the
freeholders of Peeljles-shire sometimes met, and showed their weapons to the
sheriff; but there were no longer old adversat'ies to oppose { f). By the fana-
ticism of many and factiousness of a few, this shire, which is praised for
its loyalty, was involved ere long in civil conflict. They gave sufiicient testimony
of their loyalty, says Pennecuick, at the tight of Philiphaugh, where several of
them were killed by Leslie's army, and the most eminent of their gentry taken
prisoners (y). Such victories of Scotsmen over Scotsmen led to the conquest
of Scotland by Cromwell. A small detachment of hoi'se, from Cromwell's
camp at Biggar, were surprised and cut in pieces at Fala moss, by Porteous
of Hawkshaw, with the aid of the country people, who, we may suppose,
remembered the conflict of Philiphaugh (h). Whether revenge carried the
torch through Tweeddale on this occasion, we are not told. Pennecuick is
studious to tell that, among the fanatical insurgents at Bothwell Bridge, there
were not a dozen from Tweeddale (i). A pastoral country is not, from nature,
the seat of fanaticism or faction, which are usually generated in the hot-bed of
towns. We may now advert to a conflict of a different kind, the effect of singular
manners. On the 1st of October 1677, there happened, at Romanno, says Penne-
cuick, a memorable Folymachy between two clans of Gipsies, the Fawes and
the Shawes, who had come from Hadington fair, and here fell out about divid-

(e) In December 1513, a cause was heard by tbe Lords of tbe council against William Cock-
burn, the laird of Skraling, [now Skirling], for taking by violence a part of his own goods, that
had been escheated and granted to Matthew Campbell, viz., three verdour beds, an arress bed,
three pair of sheets, a burd-claith of Dornik [a damask table-cloth], six smocks of Dornik, a
linen burd-claith, a feather bed with a bolster and four cods [pillow cases], two verdour beds,
a pair of fustain blankets, a ruff and curtains, two pair of sheets, one pair of blankets of small
white, a feather bed and two saddles, with their repailings, all which goods extend, by good
estimation, to thirty pounds Scottish money. Pari. Rec., 338. Such were a country gentleman's
furniture.

(/) There is preserved '-A Roll'' of one of those laeapon^shawinys, upon the burrow-moor of
Peebles, on the 15th of June 1627, before James Nasmyth of Posso, the sheriff-depute, which is very
curious. There were 232 horsemen, and 31 footmen, armed, the first with steel bonnets, jack, swords,
lances, buff-coats ; the footmen with swords and lances. There were a few pistols, but no muskets.
Companion, 89.

(<7) Description, 7.

(h) Companion to the Map, 107. The map-maker only shows his own principles, by considering
this ebullition of national and religions fury as a cool assassination.

(i) Description, 7.

Sect. Yl.—/t.<! Civil Histori/.J OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 931

ing the spoil [k). During the reign of James V., perhaps in the preceding age,
the Egyptians wandered throughout Scotland as a distinct people, under the
government of " Johnne Faw, the Erie of Litill Egipt," who had power to rule
and punish his people, " conforme to the lawis of Egipt (l)." King James VI.,
howevei', thought very differently of the subjects of John Faw. He declared
them to be vagabonds and thieves, and to be punished as felons (m). But
times change, and a very different government at length shed its happier
influences on Peebles-shire.

The people of Tweeddale submitted to the Revolution without a struggle,
and they acquiesced in the Union without a murmur. They were not much
disturbed by the insurrection of 1715 (n), and they remained tranquil dur-
ing the rebellion of 1745. The magistrates of the shire-town, throughout those
perturbed times, appear to have been willing, by annual prizes, for promoting
horse races, to revive in the minds of their people their ancient games.

" At Beltane, when ilk bodie bouneJ,
To Peeblis, to the play."

Tweeddale has produced men who have distinguished themselves by their
genius, their talents, and virtues. Hunter of Powmood, if we might believe
the irrefragable chai-ter of Malcolm Canmore, was the personage most early

(k) Description, 14. Old Faw, the chief, with his wife, who was big with child, were killed on the
place. For this murder, old Shaw with his three sons were hanged in February 1 678, at Edinburgh,
and John Faw for a different murder. The famous Sir George Mackenzie was the Lord Advocate
who brought all those gipsies to condign punishment. Dr. Pennecuick, who possessed Eomanno
in right of his wife, erected a pigeon-house on the site of this Pohjmachy, and inscribed it with the
following couplet :

" The field of Gipsie blood, which here you see,
A shelter to the harmless dove will be.''

(I) Privy Seal Record. 14, f. 59. James V. gave protection to this Johnie Faw and support to his
authority in 1.541. Queen Mary renewed this writ of protection to the same Erie in 1553, and she
gave him a pardon for the slaughter of Ninian Small, one of his subject Egyptians, no doubt.
M'Laurin's Orira. Laws, 774-5.

(m) 20 Ja. VI., ch. 1.3. Under this statute it is sufficient to be reputed Egyptians to infer the
pains of death. lb., 57.

(n) On the 21st of October 1715, the Marquis of Annandale, Lord Lieutenant of Dumfries and
Peebles-shire, after raising the militia, on his way from Peebles to Dumfries, was pursued by the
rebels, under Lord Kenmore, from the west. Scots Courant of that date. The people of Peebles-
shire were all loyal.

932 Ax ACCOUNT [Ch.VII. —Feehles-sh ire.

distinguished (o) ; but the Frasers were the family who first appeared con-
spicuous. Their origin, indeed, has been involved in fiction by the genealo-
gists, who, by inattention and artifice, have tried to give to falsehood all the
confidence of fact. Tlie Frasers were undoubtedly the most conspicuous cha-
racters in Peebles-shire during the Scoto-Saxon period. But it is apjsarent
from the notices of history, that the several families of Frasers in the south of
Scotland, all ended in female heirs at the commencement of the fourteenth
century. Sir William Hay of Locherworth, by marrying Mary, one of the
heiresses of Sir Simon Fraser of Oliver castle, thereby acquired much of the
estate and influence of that potent family. It was by their means, also, that
Lord Yester acquired, in 1646, the title of Earl of Tweeddale, and his son John,
the yet higher honour of Marquis of Tweeddale, in 1694 [p). Traquair has fur-
nished a title to the Stewarts, who are descended of the Earl of Buchan, of
that surname. Sir John Stewart was created Lord Stewart of Traquair in
1628, and Earl of Traquair, Lord Linton, in 1623. William Douglas, tlie
Earl of March, was also Viscount of Peebles, Lord Neidpath and Manner.
He was descended not only from the Douglases, but from the Hays and the
Frasers of Peebles-shire. These seem to be the only peerages which con-
ferred celebrity on the localities of this shire. This district has not supplied
many senators to the College of Justice. Mr. John Dickson was raised to the
iuridical bench in November 1649, when he assumed the title of Hartree {q).
Magbiehill pi'oduced the late Sir James Montgomery, the Lord Chief Baron of
the Exchequer. The physician, Alexander Pennecuick, marrying Margaret
Murray, the heiress of Romanno, long exhilarated this shire by his poetry,
and instructed its people by his knowledge. He is one of the eai-liest of his
countrymen who investigated the qualities of matter, and studied the virtues
of herbs (?•). In 1700, the estate of Rachan produced James Geddes, a scholar
of whom the University of Edinburgh may boast. He chose the law for his
profession ; but he died of a consumption before the age of forty {s). Sir

(o) Pennecuick lias recorded this original charter, which he obtained from Hunter, under his own
hand, as the son had it from his father. Description, 25. It may be allowed, however, that the
surname of Venator appeared here in the charters of the 12th and 13th centuries.

{p) Crawfurd's Peerage, 48G-7. (</) Lord Huiles's List.

(j-) In 1715 he published his Geographical and Historical Description of Tweeddale, and he died in
1722. It were to be wished that other persons in his sphere had given as good desciiptions of
their several shires. It was praised by Bishop Nicholson before its publication. See his Historical
Library.

(*) His erudite work on The Compositiun nf the Ancients was printed after the death of the author
in 1748.

Sect. VII.— /^-J Ayticulture, etc.'] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 933

Alexander Murray of Stanhope was not only one of the first improvers, but
endeavoured, by his several Treatises, to teach others how to benefit their
country by improvements {t). This county has produced also David Craw-
ford, who was born a ploughman, but has shown, after "Lady Fortune had
turned her back upon him," at Clinty-cleugh, that he can display the powers
of a versifier (»).

§ VII. Of its Agriculture, Mamifacture, and Trade.l^ At the commencement
of the Scoto-Saxon period, much of Tweeddale was still covered with woods.
The most eastern part of it formed a continuation of the forests of Ettrick and
of Selkirk. The eastern district, lying on the south of the Tweed, was covered
by the forest of Traquair {x); while the division, lying on the northern side of
the Tweed, formed the forest of Leithen, which comprehended the countries
that are drained by Leithen water and its kindred streams (?/). The parish of
Megget, which borders on Ettrick forest, was of old much covered with wood,
however bare it now is, without a copse to cover its deformities, or a bush to
soften its features iz). During that period, the middle, the west, and the
northern districts of this shire retained much copse-wood, which contributed
shelter, and gave rise to pasturage (a). Yet are there very few names of places

(t) Sir Alexander Murray's Tracts were published successively between the years 1732 and 1740.
They contain many notions which have been adopted by more celebrated writers. He must be dis-
tinguished from John Murray of Broughton in this shire, who acted during the perturbed year 1745,
as private secretary to Charles Stewart. The estates, both of Stanhope and of Broughton, are now
enjoyed by families of more discretion.

(») He published his Poems, chiefly in the Scottish dialect, in 1798. Among his effusions there is
" an address to Tweeddale,'' with such topics of praise as would naturally occur to such a miiid amidst
such scenes.

{x) David I. granted to the monks of Melrose, in his forests of Selkirk and Traquair, the several
easements of pasturage, and pannage of wood and other materials, as freely as he himself enjoyed
them. Diplom. Scotiae, pi., xiv. ; Chart. Melrose, 54. The same grant was repeated by William, his
grandson.

{ij) David II. granted to the monks of Newbotle that they should enjoy their lands within the vale
of Leithen, in a free forest, with the rights appurtenant. Chart. Newbotle, 165-6 ; Robertson's Index,
83.

(«) There was a natural wood at Dawick, which is now called New-Posso, when Font's Survey
was made at the middle of the seventeenth century. At Polmood, in Drummelzier, there
still remains some natural wood, which tradition states to have been formerly much more abundant.
Stat. Ace, vii. 154. A strip of natural wood on Lyne water, which was called the Scroggs-
wood, consists mostly of birches and allers ; and on Pout's map is called •' the birks of Lynn-
4 6 A

034 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. YIL—Peebles-Mre.

in this shire, denominated from woods, whether it were that tlie Celtic
language prevailed longer here than in Lothian, Selkirk, and Roxbui'gh (6).

Yet liamlets had been settled in the woodlands of Peebles-shire as early as
the reign of David I. The king had his royal demesnes ; the monks had their
gi'anges ; and the gentry had their manors, to which were appurtenant their
hamlets, with their chiu'ches, their mills, their brewhouses, and their com-
mons. There were, perhaps, as many people in Peebles-shire during that
age as in the present. The agricultui'al polity of former times produced a more
efficient population than the boasted refinements of modern economy.

The husbandry of Tweeddale, even during the reign of David I., resembled
the mode of Teviotdale, in mixing farming with grazing, the labours of the
plough with the cares of the shepherd. There were many dairies in Tweeddale
during the beneficent days of David I. (c). It appears, indeed, that Peebles-
shire, during the twelfth and thii'teenth centuries, was cultivated under the
same agricultural system as we have already seen existing in Roxburgh-
shire (d). Amidst all that pasturage and pannage, there was much corn
grown, if we may decide from the number of mills. The kings had their
mills at Peebles, at Traquair, and at Inverleithen (e). The passion for

Scroggs.'' The Tart/i and Jji/iie join their waters, saith Pennecuick, at the entry of the Scrogg-wood.
After which follow the Sci-oggs and Scrog-wood, consisting mostly of birks and allevs. Descrip-
tion, 18.

(b) Kaillie, the Gaelic name of the parish which is annexed to Traquair, intimates, in the Celtic
speech, the existence of a wood there ; as the Hawk-.«/«rt«' in Tweedsmuir shows the existence of copse-
wood there when the Scoto-Saxons began to sport in this district.

(c) In 1128 he granted, as we have seen, to the monks of Kelso the tithe of the cheese, " decimam
caseorum,'' which was yearly made in Tweeddale. Chart. Kelso, 1.

(d) At the end of the twelfth century. Elena Morville, the sister of William Morville, who
died in 119G, for the safety of the soul of Roland, her husband, gave the monks of Jlelrose a piece
of land in her manor of Kilbothocstou, lying between the water of Lyne and the Harehope burn
in Lyne parish, with common of pasture, in the same manor, for seventy ewes with their followers
or as many wedders ; for forty cows, with a bull, with their followers of two years old, and forty
oxen ; for eight horses and four sows, with their increase of three years old. This grant of Elena
was confirmed by two charters of her son, Allan of Galloway, and by a charter of King William.
Chart. Melrose, 133-o4-5-6.

(e) Alexander II. granted to the hospital of Soltre half a chalder of oat-meal yearly from his
mill of Peebles. Alexander III., in 1263, confirmed and enforced that grant of his father. Chart.
Soltre, 8. David II. granted the lands of Edrington, in Peebles-shii-e. to Thomas Nisbet, with
thirle to the Peebles mill. Robertson's Index, 40. In 1325. Robert I. confirmed the grant of meal
by Alexander III. to the hospital of Soltre ; but as the firm of the mill of Peebles was then let

Sect. VII.— /;.* Aijiicidture, etc.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B R I T A I N. 935

orchards seems to have come down from the British Gadeiil to the people of
Tvveeddale, though this district was not so well calculated for fruit trees as the
warmer vale of Clyde. There appears to have been some orchards of old at
Peebles town. A place called the King's Orchards is known there at pre-
sent, and there is reason to believe that there belonged an orchard to the
monastery which was founded here by Alexander III. (f). There was pro-
bably an orchard at Traquair in early times, as Pont in the seventeenth
century marks the orchard on the Quair ; and Pennecuick tells us of an old
orchard at Wester-Dawick, where the herons in his time did build their
nests upon some lai'ge pear-ti'ees. To these nests the herons brought many
fish from the Tweed, and this explains the remarkable riddle which they so
much talk of, to have flesh, fish, and fruit, upon the same tree (</). It is not
easy to ascertain the value of property in Peebles-shire in those early times.
The monks of Kelso had some burgage lands near the church of Inverleithen,
which rented yearly for twelve shillings an acre at the end of the thirteenth
century. This is a very high rent during that period, if there be no mistake
of some transcriber (A). The monks at the same period rented three acres of
land, which they possessed at Hope-Kailie, for three shillings a-year {I).

Considering the height of Peebles-shire, the air of it must necessarily be
keen and pure {k). Yet is their reason to believe that the climate of tliis
country must have been milder during the twelfth century, when it was more
sheltered by woods, than it is at present, when there is no obstruction to the
current of wind, and its nakedness exposes it to the effects of the blast. Less rain
falls in this county than in the districts which lie to the east and to the west
of it {I). In the middle, the north, and west of Tweeddale, the valleys are more

for money, he granted the same quantity of oat-meal out of /(('.* miU of Traquair. Chart. Soltre, 41.
David II. granted to the chaphuns of St. Mary's Church, in Peebles, the corn and fuUimj mills of
Inverleithen, with very extensive multures. Stat. Acco., ii. 13.

(/) See the Plan on Armstrong's Map of this shire.

(//) Description, 29. Every place has its garden now, with three or four hot-houses in the gardens
at the Whim, at Castlecraig, Darnhill, and Kingsmeadows, and a botanic garden at New-Posso.
Agricult. Survey, 153.

(A) Chart. Kelso, 9. (j) Id.

(/j) Agricult. Survey, 13. Doctor Pennecuick informs that, "the air of Tweedale is pure and well
purified, which makes the inhabitants well proportioned, strong and nimble." The doctor laments,
however, that the meaner sort do not take a little more pains to keep their bodies and dwellings neat
and clean, thinking it a pity to see a clear complexion and lovely countenance appear with so much
disadvantage through the foul disguise of smoke and dirt. Description. 5.

(/) Id. ; Report, 13. The average quantity of rain that falls annually does not exceed 28 inches.

936 An ACCOUNT [Ch. yU.—J^eebles-shire.

fei'tile and pleasant, and the hills more grassy and beautiful than in the east
and southern parts, where the low lands are more barren, and the mountains
more bleak. Newlands parish, in the north-west quarter, is called the garden
of Tvveeddale (m) ; and Megget parish, in the south-east quarter, has been
stigmatized with l)arrennes3 ; while the two highest settlements in it are appro-
priately named Winter-hope and Dead-for-cold (n). The greatest want in
Tweeddale, saith Pennecuick, is of timber, little planting being to be seen,
except a few bushes about the houses of the gentry ; and not oue wood worth
naming in this open and windy country (o).

The prosperity of Tweeddale during the Scoto-Saxon period, from 1097 to
1297, was blasted by four centuries of wretchedness. Yet Pennecuick saw
its resuscitation commence. He even praised the young nobility and gentry
for beginning to form plantations, which, he foresaw, would turn to the orna-
ment as well as the advantage of that cold and naked country (p). The
farmers were even then considered as an industrious and careful people ; yet
something wilful, stubborn, and tenacious of old customs. They would not
suffer the wrack to be taken off their lauds, because they supposed it kept the
corn warm, nor sow their bear-seed till the first week of May, which they
called JRimchie week, was past [q) ; nor plant trees or hedges, for wronging the
under-growth and sheltering birds ; nor could they be cured of a custom of over-
laying their grounds, which they thought full-plenishing ; and which, adds
Pennecuick, makes their cattle lean, little, and low-priced in the markets (r).
The farmers, however, had begun of late to take some pains in making their
hay weU-smelled and coloured, though of late years many of them preferred
musty hay, for its power of making their cows fruitful (s). Such were the
prejudices which prevented the progress of improvement. Yet Pennecuick
acknowledges that the rents of Peebles-shire were as well paid as any in the

Yet is the raiu more frequent though less abundant. The general seed-time is March for oats,
and the end of April and the beginning of May for barley, and November for wheat. Harvest begins
in September and ends in October, though barley is often cut in August. Hay harvest begins in July,
lb. 27.

(til) Companion. 73 ; Pennecuick's Description, 3. («) Companion, 66.

(o) Description, 4. (pj Id.

(q) The week of tveeds. I have not seen this term thus applied any where else in Scotland, though
the word runchies, for weeds, is generally known to rurigenous people. Bailey, indeed, has preserved
riincation for a weeding. Scholars know where to find the origin of the word, but it is not easy to tell
where the farmers found it.

(r) lb., 6. (s) Id.

Sect. YU.—Its Ariricnlfur,: etc.'] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 937

kingdom, and for the most part in money (s). Tweeddale, continues he, in
regard of its high situation, and having little plain, is more fit for pasturage
than the production of corn, and is stored with such numhei-s of sheep, that,
in Linton markets, which are kept every Wednesday during the months of
June and July, there have frequently been sold, in one day, 9,000; and 'are
indeed, the greatest merchant commodity that brings money, with their pro-
duct of lambs, wool, skins, butter, and cheese. There are but few pease and
less wheat sown in Tweeddale ; but of barley, rough bear especially, and oats,
greater plenty than is sufficient for the inhabitants {t). In some districts of
this shire they had begun, as early as the Union, to use lime as a manure {u).
In the same districts marie was found ; but from the silence of Pennecviick
as to its use, we may infer that the husbandmen had not then begun " to spread
this compost on the weeds to make them ranker."

We must see, then, that improvements had begun as early as the Union,
though perhaps without much vigour of effort. Pennecnick himself is entitled
to praise as one of the first improvers, since he showed the farmers their pre-
judices, and taught the gentry the properties of plants. A greater man than the
doctor, the Earl of Islay, the far-famed Archibald Duke of Argyll, is recoi'ded
" as having shown an example of agriculture that was much wanted {x)." Sir
Alexander Murray of Stanhope was also an improver, as we have seen, who
planted himself, and inculcated on others the doctrines of improvements. But
James Macdougall, a small farmer at Linton, first taught, by his example, the
Norfolk rotation of crops, and other useful practices. He may be deemed the
father of the improved husbandry of this shire ; and he must rank higher on
the scale of useful example than the Duke of Argyll, who had but few fol-
lowers {y). The first dairy farming in Tweeddale is said to have been intro-

(s) Description, 4.

{t) Description of Tweeddale, which, though published in 1715, may be deemed as old in composi-
tion as the epoch of the Union, if not before, as Bishop Nicolson spoke of it in 1703.

(») There is no small quantity of lime towards the northern border of this shire, saith Pennecuiek,
at Carlops, Whitefield, C'eltcoat, Grange, and Spitalhaugh, which places, with their neighbourhood,
are very much improved of late, to the benefit of the ground, in reducing many of those black and
barren heaths to fertility and a fairer complexion. Description, 5.

{x) His lordship made choice of moss [in this shire at the Whivi], saith Maxwell, knowing that,
being made up of excellent materials, moss is improveable at a moderate expense, and that it yields the
manure properest for fertilizing itself. Grain, grass, from grass-seeds sown, oak and other planting
have already prospered upon it by his culture. Besides, to him we give the American and Balm of
Gilead firs, the larix, and many other useful plants which he introduced into this country. Select
Transactions of the Society of Improvers, 1743. Dedic, vi.

{!)) Acrricult. Survey, .57.

f):iH Ay ACCOUNT [Ch. YlL—Peebles-f^hire.

fluced by Thomas Stevenson in the present times. This is asserted by those
A\ho knew not that dairy farming existed here under David I. (s). Dairy
farming was pi'actised in this shire at the epoch of the Union, as we liave
seen, from the intimation of Pennecuick (a). It is, however, certain, tliat the
agriculture of this county, like the husbandry of Roxburghshire, is of a mixed
nature, consisting partly of the growing of corn and of the feeding of sheep,
according to the nature of the soil and climate (b). Tiie whole superficies of
Peebles-shire is 338 square miles, or 2 1 6,320 statute acres.

Of these,' the arable land, gardens, sites of houses, comprehend 29,500 acres.
Tlie pasture, woods, lakes, rivers, roads, etc. - - 186,820

The appropriation of the whole - - - - 216,320

In 1657, the taxable rent of this shire was £i,323 4s 5d sterlmg. The real
rent of it at present may be estimated in the following manner :

The arable land of 29,500 acres, at 10s. - - - £14,750 0 0

Pasturage lands of 186,820 acres, at Is. 6d. - - 14,110 10 0

Yearly value (c) £28,860 10 0

The turnip husbandry was first introduced into Tweeddale about the year
1764, by Ceorge Dalzel, innkeeper at Linton; and in the course of twenty
years, every farm had its turnip-field, so congenial to the soil was it found,
and so salubrious to the sheep (d). Potatoes had already been introduced ; but
tlie same intelligent person was the first who cultivated the potatoes on a large
plan by the plough ; and this most useful practice soon passed into general use,
as well for the food of cattle as of man (c). Artificial grasses, which were

(--) Stat. Acco., i. 149.

(a) Description, 3. Two of the commodities, he says, which brought money into Tweeddale, were

'• butter and cheese." (6) Agricult. Survey, 14.

The rent for 112,800 sheep --..-.. £17,834 0 0

for 4,300 cows -.....- 6,450 0 0

for horses sold ....... 1.716 0 0

The yearly value ...... £26,000 0 0

{il) Agricult. Survey, 258. This innkeeper may be recorded among those never to be forgotten men,
who made a blade of grass grow where none grew before,
(e) Id.

Sect. VII.— /As- A griculture, etc.] Op NORTH-BRITAIN.

939

introduced at the era of tlie Union, were now commonly sown, though, for
want of enclosures, not with the best effects. Summer fallow , which once had
been the great object of improvers to introduce, went out of practice as the
turnip husbandry came into use, as it answered the same purpose with greater
profit ( f). But the great improvement of much of Tweeddale began about the
year 1788, which originated in rapacity and ended in melioration. The Lord
of Neidpath received fines of his tenants, and gave them, in consideration,
leases of five-and-fifty years ; and the notion of property, for more than half
a century, soon erected commodious houses, made enclosures, and incited
agricultural enterprise, with greater skill ; as it had already produced the same
beneficial effects in Berwickshire ((/). [In 1887 there were 9895 acres of corn
crops; 5620 acres of green crops; 12,438 acres of clover and grasses under ro-
tation ; 14,746 acres of permanent pasture or grass ; and 15 acres of bare fallow.
In the same year there were 1132 horses; 5621 cattle; 183,648 sheep; and
860 pigs.]

But without roads for the purpose of communication, every improvement
is vain. In ancient times when war, both foreign and domestic, was frequent,
easy entrance into the recesses of the country had been a great disadvantage.
Thi-ough the dreary parish of Megget, there are still the traces, however, of
three or four paths, in different directions, across the hills into Annandale,
though for what purpose, whether of thievery or traffic, is uncertain {h).
During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it was the practice to grant the
right of passage either for money or for charity (*')• Yet, must we remember,
that there were public roads, though perhaps not in many directions, in the
reio-n of David I., as we see them mentioned in the chartularies. The benefit
of roads began to be understood here about the year 1750. A way to the
capital was then constructed, by piecing together district roads, so as to suit
private convenience rather than public use. Under the authority of parlia-
ment, however, post roads throughout this shii-e were afterward made, at an

if) Agricult. Survey, 26.

{rj) Agricult. Survey. 104-112. It was the same principle which produced the improvement
of England. We may see examples of leases even for four score years in Madox's Formulare,
141-46. (h) Stat. Ace, xii. .564.

{i) William Purveys of Mosspennoch granted to the mouks of Melrose, "liberum transituiu,''
through the middle of his lauds of Mosspennoch, for twenty shillings sterling to him paid.
Chart. Melrose, 137. This must have been transacted towards the end of the thirteenth century.
This estate is now called Mossfennan, in Glenholm, near the vicinity of which the monks had the
lands of Hopcarton and others. About the same time Sir Symon Fraser of Oliver Castle granted to
the same monks free passage for their carriages, cattle, and people, through his lands of Hoprew, in
Stobo parish, on the road leading up Tweeddale to their lands in the manor of Oliver Castle. Officers
of State, 271.

940 An ACCOUNT [Ch. Xll.— Peebles-shire.

expense of eighty pounds a mile. For tlie mending of cross-ways, the statute
labour has been commuted into a money-payment. And though much lias
been done, still more is to be peiformed, before the carriage, both of the
exports and the imports, can be performed with the greatest advantage to
the husbandmen and manufacturers, who have a claim to every possible con-
venience (k). There is a track, \\hich is called the Drove-road, that passes
through this shire, entering it on the north-west, at the pass called the
Cauldstone Slap, and quitting it on the south-east, at Glendeans hank, where it
enters Selkirkshire (I). It was on this Drove-road that the cattle were driven,
from the north to the south, for sale ; and it seems to have been established
by custom, and is continued by use.

But roads do not acquire all their usefulness till bridges are thrown over
the water's, in a country which is traversed by so many mountain torrents.
The chief erection of this sort in Tweeddale, is the bridge on the Tweed at the
shire-town. From its structure, it appears to have been built in early times
of five arches, with little breadth ; and it was probably erected by some
of the kings while they hunted here, as the pontage on it was granted to the
corporation of Peebles about the year 1560, by Queen Mary (in). There are
two other bridges here, which have been thrown over the Peebles water to
connect the new town with the old. Upon the Lyne, there were four bridges
and two mills in the days of Pennecuick (n) ; and upon the Manor water,
there was, in the same age, a stone bridge below the church.

Every water in this streamy shire abounds with fish, except the Tweed,
whiuh indeed furnishes some salmon, notwithstanding eveiy obstruction ;
but the fishings of Tweeddale do not pi'oduce any rent to the neighbouring
propi'ietors (/?).

Tweeddale cannot be deemed a manufacturing county. The various products
of the soil were, indeed, manufactured as early as the intelligent age of David I.
The same agricultural policy prevailed here as in Roxburghshire under that
prince. Every manor had its mill, its malt-kiln, and its brewhouse ; every
dairy converted the milk of its cows and its ewes into butter and cheese ;
and perhaps every family manufactured its wool into garments, for its hai'dy
sons and blithsome daughters ; as we have already seen that they had fulling-
mills in very early times. Pennecuick speaks of the growing of lint in his
time ; yet there was no linen made for sale in Peebles-shire, either at the

(k) Agricnlt. Survey, 210-13. (l) See Armstrong's Map of this shire.

(m) Stat. Ace., xii. 16. (n) Description, 10.

(p) Companion, 16 ; Agiicult. Survey, 25 ; Stat. Ace, xii. 371-2 ; lb., xix. .595.

Sect. VII.— /;6' AfjriculUirc, etc.] Of N 0 R T II - B R I T A I N. 941

revival of that fabric in 1727, or at its height in 1801. Woollen, linen, and
cotton weavers, we are told, are increasing about the shire-town, owing to the
influential employments of Edinburgh and of Glasgow [q). There are at
Peebles a few stocking looms. The patriotism of Brodie, a London ii'on-
worker, has established a woollen manufacture at Inverleithen, which seems to
have taken root in a congenial soil, and may grow into size (r). It is surpris-
ing to those who do not I'eflect, how much the origin of arts and the
commencement of traffic, are owing to time and chance, that no manufacture
of coarae woollen has been established at Linton, within sixteen miles of Edin-
burgh, on a turnpike road, in the midst of sheep-walks, and abounding with
water, with lime, with freestone, and with fuel, both coal and peat {s). With
all those advantages, the blasting influence of a landlord may nip the buds of
industry as it blossoms, or " mildew the white wheat, and hurt the poor
creatures of the earth." Peebles, Linton, Skirling, Eddlestone, and Broughton,
are all market towns in Tweeddale {t) ; but their fairs do little more than bring-
together the buyers and sellers of the products of husbandry (jt). Yet what
avail those boasted improvements of agriculture if they cast a sickly hue over
the whole population of the shire {x). It is apparent from the foregoing inti-
mations that Tweeddale was more populous under David I. than it is at present.
The domestic economy of this shire, under that beneficent sovereign, produced
more cattle, more sheep, more hogs, and more victual than the agricultural
system does at present. Even at the commencement of the fourteenth century,
Tweeddale, under such a sheriff as the younger Sir Symon Eraser, could have
made far greater eflTorts in resisting the foe than this feeble county could possibly

{q) Agricult. Survey, 218-19. (r) Id. {s) Id.

(t) In 1663, there was mentioned in parliament a warrant for two fairs, and for changing the
market-day of the barony of Skirling. Unprinted Act of that date. The following advertisement
from the corporation of the shire-town, dated the 3rd of September 1724, opens a little more in detail
the economy of their fairs: "The magistrates and council of Peebles, considering that their fair, called
" Rytt Fair, or St. Dennis Fair, which uses to fall yearly on the first Tuesday of October,
" is too soon in the year for buying fat beasts ; and also, that some of their neighbouring fairs fall
" on the same day, have therefore thought fit to alter the said fair to the last Tuesday of October
" yearly, hereafter, where all persons may attend for selling and buying of worsted yarn, fat beasts,
" horses, black cattle of all sorts, and other merchant goods, and may expect to be civilly and kindly
"entertained." Oourant, No. 897.

(m) Agricult. Survey, 214-15. For the whole domestic economy of Peebles-shire, the Agricultural
Report and the Agricultural Survey must be consulted. My plan only allows historical sketches of
an interesting subject.

(a) See the supplemental Table at the end of this account of Peebles-shire.
4 6B

942 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Xll.—Peebles-s/iire.

make under its vaunted polity of the present day. The incipient manufacture
of Peebles, of Linton, of Inverleithen, but ill supplies the people whom the
agricultural system has driven away from the other parishes (y).

§ vin. Of its Ecclesiastical History.'] The connection of Tweeddale with the
ancient kingdom of Strathclyde seems to have naturally placed the ecclesiastical
system of this country within the diocese of Glasgow. In the Inquisitio of Earl
David, the prince of Cuiiibria, we may see that this episcopate was found by
that inquest to have had a carucate of land and a church in Peebles, with
other churches iu this county (2). Tweeddale remained under the authority of
the bishop of Glasgow till the final suppression of episcopacy in Scotland. The
archdeacon of Glasgow was prebendary of Peebles (o) ; and the churches of
Maner, Eddlestone, and Stobo, within this shire, were prebends of the episcopate
of Glasgow. From this connection, it became necessary for every ecclesiastical
grant within this shire to be confirmed by the bishop of Glasgow ; as we
perceive they were, in fact, from the chartularies. In those times, also, there
was a deanry of Peebles, as we know from Bagimont's RoU. The bishop of
Glasgow used to hold his episcopal s3'nods at Peebles {b).

In the town of Peebles, there were religious establishments even before the
epoch of record; as we know i'rom the Inquisition oi Earl David. The Cross
kirk of Peebles owed its foundation to a very common event, which yet, from
the superstition of the times, created much popular attention. On the 7th of
May 1261, as we learn from Fordun, there were dug up, at Peebles, "a cer-
tain and magnificent, and venerable cross," which was supposed to be the
very cross of the martyred St. Nicolas, during the Maximian persecution.
There was also found here, soon after, an urn containing " the ashes and
bones of a certain man's body (c)." At the Gadeni town of the Ptomanized
christians these discoveries were nothing extraordinary. Yet was Alex-

(j/) See the Statistical Accounts of this shire for the special facts on this head.

(c) Chart. Glasgow, No. i. ; Sir James Dabjmple's Col., App., No. i. We may remember also a
slight circumstance which is connected with this subject ; there is in Peebles town an aqueduct
supplied from St. Mungos Well. Kentlgem and Mungo are one and the same saint.

(a) The parson of Peebles hath been for many ages the archdeacon of Glasgow, saith Pennecuick.
Description, 2.

{b) A controverey about the church of Sibaldby and the chapel of Hutton in Dumfries-shire was
settled b}' a composition, which was made in full synod at Peebles, and which was affirmed by the
authority of Joceline, the Bishop of Glasgow, from 1175 to 1199. Chart. Glasgow, 287.

Sect. YUl.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] Op NORTH-BRITAIN. 943

auder III., induced by William, the bishop of Glasgow, to found on this site
in 1254 a monastery for red friars. At Harehope, in the south-west of
Eddleston parish, there was a convent of Lazarites which was founded by
David I., who endowed them with certain lands and revenues, particularly
the lands of Spitalton and St. Giles's and Priestfield in Midlothian. In the
Cross kirk, as well as in some other churches in Peebles, there were founded
by the piety of ancient times a number of chaplainries and altarages with
lands for their support. All these were granted by James VI. to the corpora-
tion of Peebles (e). At the Reformation the High Church in the old town
was destroyed, and the Cross Church was converted into the parish kirk. The
cloister was converted into houses for the schoolmasters and public schools,
and it was used for this purpose till the beginning of the eighteenth centuxy
when the cloister became ruinous (_/). The revenues of the Cross Church were,
by reforming sacrilege, assigned in pensions to Walter Henderson and son,
whether the famous zealot of the Scottish kirk appears not (g). About two
miles eastward from Peebles there was of old an hospital which was dedicated
to St. Leonard, and was founded by ancient charity for infirm and indigent
persons (h). The site of this hospital has more recently been known by the
name of Chapel yards. There seems to have been formerly an hospital at a
place that has been called from it Spitalhaitgh, on Lyne water, in Linton parish,
and a field near it still bears the name of Chapelhill (i).

When the whole ecclesiastical policy of Scotland was changed by the Refor-
mation, the parishes of Peebles-shire were formed into one presbytery, which
was placed in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. In 1692, when men's
minds were again nnsettled, four of the parishes of Peebles-shire, Kilbucho,
Glenholm, Skirling, and Broughton, were annexed to Biggar presbytery [k).

The parish of Peebles is very extensive and populous, containing 18,210
acres and upwards of 2,000 souls. Where the shire-town now stands there
was, in the earliest times, a hamlet which derived its name, as we have seen,
from the British people, in whose speech the word Pehyll signified the Shieling.
of the Saxon tongue, or temporary dwellings. That the British people had a
church here is extremely probable. That there was a church here belonging

(e) Description, 32-3 ; Stat. Acco., xii. 16 ; Companion, 83. Frere Thomas, Mestre de la Maison de
Seint Croce, de Pebblis, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on the 28th of August, 1296. Prynne,
iii. 662.

(/) There is a view of the Cross church in Grose's Antiq., ii. 221-2.

((/) Exchequer Acco. MS. {h) Spottiswoode, 516-33.

(i) Armstrong's Map ; Stat. Acco., i. 147.

(Ic) Companion to the Map, 10 ; Pennecuick's Description, 2,

944 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Xll.—Peebles-s/are.

to the ancient episcopate of Glasgow, at the commencement of the twelfth
century, is certain (/). lu tliis church the bishops of Glasgow used some-
times to hold their sjnods. Ingelram, who was named to the bishopric of
Glasgow in 11G4, was previously rector of Peebles and archdeacon of Glasgow.
In 1195 the church of St. Andrews in Peebles was consecrated by Joceline,
the bishop of Glasgow (in). The diocesan, in order to settle a dispute with
Hugh de Pottun, his archdeacon, assigned him a revenue out of the church of
Peebles. The rectory was thus converted into a vicarage (ii). In Bagimont's
Roll there was the vicaria of Peebles in the deanery of Peebles, without the
church of Glasgow, rated at £2 13s. 4d. In the same Roll the archdeacon's
prebends of Peebles and Manor were rated at £26 13s. 4d. In the Taxatio of
the prebends of Peebles and Manor in 1401, were rated at £5 (o). Till
the Reformation the archdeacon of Glasgow was rector of Peebles and of
Manor, and enjoyed of course the parsonage tithes of those parishes, which are
said to have been worth, yearly, 6,000 marks (/>). At that epoch of ecclesi-
astical change a part of the vicarage tithes was assigned by the patron of the
parish to the master of the grammar school at Peebles (q). The town and
parish of Peebles which are now content with one church and one parson, had
before the Reformation three churches and several chapels (r). The High
Church of Peebles, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is supposed to
have been erected, or rather rebuilt, in the eleventh century. From the
appearance of some of the freestone it would seem to have succeeded a church
more ancient. King David granted to the chaplains of St. Mary's Church, in
Peebles, tlie corn and the fulling mills of Inverleithen, with extensive multures,

(/) The Inquisitio of Earl David, 1116, Chart. Glasgow. 1, is published in Gibson. This inquest,
and title of the bishop of Glasgow, were confirmed by Pope Alexander in 1170 ; by Lucius, in 1181 ;
and by Urban in 1186. Chart. Glasgow.

(in) Chron. Melrose of that date.

(») Chart. Glasgow, 199. Walter, the vicar of Peebles, was a witness to a charter of John, the
bishop of Glasgow, from 1260 to 1268 a.d. lb., 202. John, the vicar of the church of Peebles, swore
fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on the 28th of August, 1296. Prynne, iii. 654.

(o) Chart. Glasgow, 490.

(p) Doctor Pennecuick affirms that he had been faithfully informed, the parsonage of Peebles was
worth, on an average of years, 6000 marks. Description, 2.

(q) Stat. Acco., sii. 16-17.

(r) Doctor Pennecuick, we may remember, when celebrating the mimber in which God delights,
speaks " of the three old steeples, by three churches borne," in Peebles town. The present minister
speaks fastidiously of " needless miltiplicitij of churches '' formerly, as if one minister could administer
the comforts of Christianity to a town, with a surrounding parish of ten miles long.

Sect. TV.— Its Ecclesiastical History.'} OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 945

and the adjacent lands (r). The ruins of this ancient church still remain at
the western extremity of the old town, which is surrounded by a large cemetery,
wherein the dead are deposited by those who do not think frigidly of their
fathers' dust. The High church was demolished at the Reformation, by those
who thought that a religious people could have a needless mulliplicity of temples
for the woi'ship of God, and the Cross Church, as it was nearer the new town,
was converted into a parochial place of worship. But, in 1784, a church was
opened here in the stead of the Holyrood, that had defied time and negligence
since its foundation by the piety of Alexander III. (s). In it, as well as in the
church of St. Andrew, there wei'e established a number of chaplainnes and
altarages, with the endowments of lands, which were all granted to the com-
munity of Peebles in 1621 ; paying an annual rent into the Exchequer, and
ofiering their daily prayers for King James, the grantor (<). The castle of
Peebles had of old a chapel, which was granted in the twelfth century to the
monks of Kelso, with a carucate of land adjacent, and ten shillings out of the
firm of the town (»). There was also in Peebles, a chapel, which had been
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and which was usually called Lady Chapel (x),
and there was, in those religious times, a chapel, at a place, which was called
from it. Chapel Hill, upon Peebles water, about a mile and a half above the
town. In those good old times there probably were more people and more
piety, than in the frigid days, when a minister of the gospel could talk coolly of
the needless multiplicity of places of ivorship. [The Parish Church has 1038
communicants ; stipend, £489. The Free Church has 299 members. Two
U. P. Churches have 632 members. There are also an Episcopal and a Roman
Catholic Church.]

The present parish of Traquair is composed of the old parisli of Traquair,
with that half of the ancient pai-ish of Kailzie, which lies on the southern side
of the Tweed (y). The district took its name from the village, and the %allage
derived its British appellation from its site on the Qtcair. In the charters of the

(r) Stat. Acco., xii. 13.

(s) lb., 16. During the contests about religion in 16.54, tlie Eavl of Traquair obtained a charter
granting hina "ten-arum ecclesiasticarum ecclesise parocbialis de Peebles.'' Douglas Peerage, 674.
The Earl of March is now patron of Peebles church.

(t) Companion, 28 ; Stat. Acco., xii. 16. There were mentioned, in that grant, the prebends of St.
Mary, of the Hobj Cross, of St. Michael, St. Mary Major, St. John, St. Mary, St. Andrew, St. James,
St. Laurence, St. Christopher, with the chaplainry of St. Mary. Id. In 1543 the corporation, with
Lord Yester, granted to St. Andrew's kirk, four-and-twenty marks, with a chamber and a yard. MS.
Donation. (it) Chart. Kelso, No. 451. (.r) Roll of Small Benefioes, MS.

(ij) The annexation took place in 1674. Companion to the Map, 99.

946 AnACCOUNT [Cb. YIL— Peebles-shire.

twelfth and thirteenth centui'ies, the name is written Trevquer, Travequayr,
Trequayr (z). Trev-quair and Trequah in the British speech, signifies the
dwelUng, hamlet, or village on the Quair (a). The Celtic name of the water
was derived, as we have seen, from the loinding course of the stream. The
church of Traquair was granted by Davdd I. to the bishop of Glasgow, and
was confirmed soon after by the bulls of successive poises {b). The church of
Traquair was dedicated to St. Brigid, and was commonly called St. Bride's
kirk, and Kirkbride. In Bagimont's Roll, there are the rectoria de Kirkbride,
valued at X5 6s. 8d., and the vicaria de Kirkbride at £2 13s. 4d., lying with-
out the church of Glasgow, in the deanery of Peebles. In 1242, Alexander II.
sent a precept to his sheriff and baillies of Traquair, commanding them to im-
prison excommunicated persons, in the church (c). After the Reformation had
given a new model to the Scottish church, the advowson of Traquair went from
the archbishop of Glasgow to the king, with whom it still remains. The church
of Traquair was rebuilt in 1785 (c?). The parish of Kaihie, Kaillie, or Kellie,
as it was anciently written, derived its Celtic name from the woods which once
constituted a part of the forest of Traquair. CelU, in the British speech, Kelli,
in the Cornish, signify a grove ; and the kindred Coille, in the Gaelic, means a
wood (e). In the mixed topography of North-Britain, this Celtic term has, in
many instances, been converted into Kailzie and Kelly, by the Scoto-Saxon
pronunciation ; the Celtic (c) having the same powers as the English (k). The
same parsimonious spirit which considered numerous churches as needless, com-
pletely suppressed the parish of Kaillie, and annexed the southern part of it to
Traquair, and the northern to Inverleithen (/). The ruins of Kaillie church
stand on a rivulet, which, from it, is called Khkburn, and which falls into the
Tweed from the south (g). [The Parish Church has 171 communicants; stipend
£461.]

The parish of Inverleithen took its name from the kirk-town, and the village
derived its Celtic appellation from its site near the influx of the Leithen with
the Tweed. Inverleithen is compounded of the Scoto-Irish inhher, which is

{z) Cbart. Glasgow, Kelso, and Newbotle. In tbe gi-ants of the 14th centurj% it is written
Traqwayre, Trekware, but most frequently Traquair. Eobertson's Index. There are two very
ancient charters in Dugd. Monast., v. i., p. 399, wherein this place is called Trevaquer and
Trevequer.

(a) Davis and Owen, in vo. Ti-ef, Trev, Tre ; and so Tre in the Comish. Pryce's Arch.

(J) Chart. Glasgow, 73, 81, 91, and 104.

(e) Davis and Owen's W. Die. ; Pryce's Arch.; and O'Brien and Shaw's Gaelic Diet.

ffj Companion to the Map, 47-99. (g) lb., 100.

Sect. YllL—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 f N 0 E T II - B E I T A I N. 947

pronounced Inver, signifying the influx or junction of two riverets, which is
prefixed to the more ancient British name of this mountain torrent, which
derived its name from its quality of flooding its banks, as we have ah^eady seen.
Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Inverleithen wherein
his son reposed the first night after his decease, and he commanded, as an
additional favour, that this church should enjoy the same power of refuge as
had Wedale and Tyningham (Ji). In 1232 the church of Inverleithen was
confirmed to the monks by their diocesan, William, the bishop of Glasgow {i).
At the end of the thirteenth century, the monks state, as a part of their pro-
perty that they had the church of Inverleithen " in rectoria," which used to be
worth, yearly, £26 13s. 4d, and had annexed thereto an annual pension which
they held "in vicaria"(^). In Bagimont's Roll there is " vicaria de Inver-
leithen," lying without the church of Glasgow and in the deanery of Peebles,
valued at £6 13s. 4d. William, the ancient pastor of Inverleithen, was one
of the witnesses to a charter of William Morville, the constable of Scotland,
from 1189 to 119G A.D. (Z). The village of Inverleithen, with the circum-
jacent district, continued a part of the royal demesne during the reign of Alex-
ander II. {m). We thus perceive that Malcolm IV. merely granted to the
monks of Melrose the church of Inverleithen, without giving the town the
common of pasture belonging to it or the circumjacent territory. In 1674 the
smaller or northern part of the parish of Kaillie was annexed to Inverleithen,
as we have seen. Inverleithen is now a large populous market town, with a
fair on the 14th of October, and it is daily growing still larger from the intro-
duction of a woollen manufacture here, and the discovery of a mineral spring in
its vicinity. [The Parish Church, erected in 1870, has 815 communicants ;
stipend, £387. The Free Church has 208 members. A U.P. Church has 280
members. There is also a Roman Catholic Church].

The parish of Eddleston takes its name from the hamlet wherein stands the
church. The name of this district can only be ascertained from its singular
changes, as we trace them in the chartularies. During the British times this
district bore the name of Pentiacoh, which, however corrupted, shows plainly
its British original (??). Before the year \17Q Pentiacoh hsid. been changed to

{k) Chart. Kelso, No. 20. Lord Hailes takes notice of this grant of Malcolm IV., and the cause
of it. {i) lb., 278. (/t) Id. (/) Chart. Glasgow, 165.

(n») Chart. Newbotle, No. 130. The king, in the precept which he then issued to Gilbert Fraser,
the sheriff of Traquair, reserved to himself the common of pasture, which was appurtenant to his village
of Inverleithen. Id.

(n) It was found by the Tnquisitio of Earl David in 11 IG A.D., that Pentiacoh had belonged of old
to the church of Glasgow. Gibson's Glasg. App. Fent-y-achub, in the British, would

948 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \U.— Peebles-shire.

the more obvious appellation of Gillemorestun, from some person of Scoto-Irish
descent having fixed his residence here (o). Engelram, the bishop of Glasgow,
from 1164 to 1174, gave in firm, "ad firmam," to Richard Morville, the
constable, the lands of Gillemorestun, " que olim vocabatur Penjaccob" with
the pertinents, except the ch\u-ch, to hold of the church of Glasgow for
fifteen years from Pentecost 1170 a.d. The bishop rented this land to the
constable in consideration of three hundred marks, Morville making oath on
the gospels at the altar that he or his successors would faithfully return the
demised premises at the end of the terra to the bishop or his successors (p).
Richard Morville forgot his promise and disregarded his oath. He granted
the bishop's lands to Eadulfe, the son of Uchtred, and his heirs, tor the service
of one knight [q). Yet was this grant confirmed by William Morville, the
constable, who succeeded his father, Richard, in 1189 (?•). Eadulfe considered
this district so much his own that he changed the name of it from Gillemorestun
to Edulfestun, which was afterwai'ds softened into Edulestiin, and at length
corrupted into Eddlestown. In this manner, then, was the British name, by
successive changes, which had some meaning, converted into an appellation
that has none. In this transaction, thus authenticated by record, we see at
once the profligacy and the power of the Morvilles, who transmitted their high
office of constable to their female heirs, who possessed the delicacy of feeling
which was wanting in them. The last of the Morvilles died in 1196 a.d. (s).
After a long deprivation of this property by the power of Richard Morville,
this ancient possession was honourably restored to William, the bishop of
Glasgow, by Elene, the daughter of Alan, Lord of Galloway, the descendant
and heiress of the Morvilles (t). William de Bondington, by whose address

signify the hollow of protection, or deliverance ; Pen-ti-achub would denote the chief house of
protection, or deliverance. Whatever there may be in these meanings, it is certain that the prefix
is either the British Fen, which, signifying a head or- summit, is not unfrequent. as we have seen,
in the southern topography of North-Britain, or it is the British Pant, signifying a hollow,
or vale.

(o) By the name of Gilniorestun, this parish was confirmed to the bishop of Glasgow by successive
Popes, from 1170 to 1186 a.d. Chart. Glasg., 73-81-91-103.

{p) Chart. Glasgow, 161.

{q) lb., 165. Richard Morville granted this land to Edulfe, in fee, by the name of Gillemorestun
" que antiquitus vocabatur Penjacub." Id.

(r) Id.

[s) Chron. Melrose, 180: '• Obiit William Morville."

{t) The viituous Elene was the grand-daughter of Roland, and the daughter of Allan, the Lord of
Galloway, by Elene Morville, who succeeded, upon the death of William, her brother, in 1196, to the

Sect. Ylll.—ns Ecclesiastical Historij.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 949

or influence, this estate was re-annexed to his see, was originally one of the
clerks of the chanceiy, became afterward rector of Eddleston, which was one
of the prebends of Glasgow, archdeacon of Lothian, chancellor of Scotland in
1231, bishop of Glasgow in 1232, and he died in 1258 [u). Richard de Boulden,
the parson of the church of Eddleston, swore fealty to Edward I., at Berwick,
on the 28th of August 1296 {x). In Bagimont's Roll there is, among the
churches of the chapter of Glasgow, " rectoria de Edelston," which was valued
at £13 6s. 8d. In a taxation of the prebends of the Church of Glasgow in 1401,
Eddleston is rated at £3 (y). The present church of Eddleston seems to have
been built at the end of the sixteenth century, at least, some of the pews within
it are marked in IGOO A. d. (s). A new village has been built at this kirk-town,
which enjoys the benefit of a yearly fair on the 12th of September (a). [The
Parish Church of 1829 has 227 communicants; stipend, £370.]

The united parish of Lyne and Megget, was formed in 1621 by the junction
of two distinct parishes together, however inconvenient to the parishioners,
though convenient to the proprietors. This annexation is another illustration
of the modern doctrine, how needless numerous churches are to the Christian
dispensation. There is no church in Megget (6). This fact carries that doctrine
to the full length of considering it as unessential to this dispensation to have
any visible church. The district of Lyne derived its British name from the riveret
Lyne. The church and kirktown stand on the eastern side of it, rather more
than a mile before its influx into the Tweed. This church was originally a
chapel subordinate to the mother church of Stobo (c). This chaplainry of

property and offices of the Morvilles ; and she had been the wife of Eoger de Quincy, the Earl of
Albemarle. The release of Elene is recorded in the Chartulary of Glasgow, 251 ; and she therein
stated the history of this transaction. John de Balliol, who married Dervorgilla, the daughter of
Allan, Lord of Galloway, and William de Tore, the son of Eoger de Quincey, both confirmed the
release of Elene, and both recite the whole transaction. lb., 255-257.

(m) Chron. Melrose, 222 ; Keith, 141-2, has misstated the time of his decease. The bishop, after he
had regained his right, granted to Mariota, the daughter of Samuel, an annuity of ten marks, " de
firma manerli nostri de Edulvestun, percipienda per manum commerarii nostri." Chart. Glas., 273.
This manor of Eddleston was of old very extensive, as it comprehended Tor, which has been changed
to Windietoti's, and which is two miles below, on the water of Eddleston. lb., 449.

(x) Prynne, iii. 662. {y) Chart. Glasgow, 490. (?) Stat. Acco., xvii., 189.

(rt) It had formerly another fair on Tuesday before the 12th of July, but this is now held at
Peebles. The Eev. Charles Findlater's MS. Note on the Companion, 38.

(t) The minister says he preaches in some farm-house by rotation. Stat. Acco., sii., 559.

950 An A C C 0 U N T [Cb. YU.— Peebles-shire.

Lyne afterwai'ds became a rectory ; and in Baginiont's Roll, we may see the
" rectoria de Lyne," in the deanery of Peebles, valued at £4. The minister
talks of this ancient church having once been a popish chapel, which, by a
thorough repair, in late times, has been purified from its ancient grossness [d).
The parish of Megget obviously dei'ived its name from the river Megget, that
in the eastern extremity of the parish there is the ruin of a church, which is
surrounded by a cemetery that is still used by those who regard the monu-
ments of their fathers with veneration ; and as there is no other remain of any
ecclesiastical edifice, we may easily suppose this to be the ancient church of
Megget (e). [The Parish Chui'ch at Lyne has G3 communicants ; stipend, £210.
There is a Chapel of Ease at Megget.]

The name of the parish of Newlaxds refers to the era when the lands lying
around the kirk-town were first brought into cultivation by Scoto-Saxon hands.
At the end of the thirteenth century, the church of Newlands, in Tweeddale,
belonged to the monks of Dunfermline {/). In Bagimont's Roll, there is the
"rectoiia de Newlands," in the deanery of Peebles, valued at .£16. This high
valuation shows that it was then deemed of great value and was independent
of the monks of Dunfeimline. Newlands church is an ancient structure which
is surrounded by a few lofty trees (g). In this parish there is a congre-

Lyne, and Walter bis uncle, on tbe one pait, and Gregory, tbe parson of Stobo, on the other, with
regard to tbe chapel of Lyne. The point was carried before tbe Pope, who remitted it to John, the
bishop of Candida Casa ; and be giving judgment in favour of tbe parson of Stobo, tbe adverse party
resigned his pretensions to the parson and diocesan, tbe bishop of Glasgow. Chart. Glasg., 145.

(d) Stat. Acco., xii., 559. Tradition relates that the church of Lyne was built by Randolph, the
great Earl of MuiTa}', who is said, by the same tradition, to have had a house within the ramparts of
tbe Roman cauip, which have the name of Jiandall's ]]'alls. Companion to tbe Map, 69. The
silence of Robertson's Index is sufficient to show that tbe great Earl of Murray never had any
property in Peebles-shire ; so little is tradition, in this assertion, to be relied on. Tbe pulpit of this
church, whoever built it, is said to be a remarkable piece of mechanism, which was imported from
Holland in 1644 by Lady Tester, whose pew bears the same date. Tbe pew of tbe family of Vetch is
dated in 1606. lb., 63.

(e) Companion, 65. An ancient tombstone was dug up in this cemetery, with the arms of the
Cockbums engraved on it. We ma)' easily believe this to have been tbe stone of one of the Cockburns
of Henderland.

(y) Malcolm's MS. Collection, from the Chart, of Dunfermline.

(g) Companion, 73. David II. granted to William Douglas the lands of Kilbothock and Newlands,
on tbe resignation of John Graham of Dalkeith. Robertson's Index, 54. Robert II. gave to
James Douglas of Dalkeith tbe baronies of Kilbothock and Newlands, on tbe resignation of
James Douglas, his father. lb., 121. Regist. Rob. II. Rot., v. 73. In this parish and barony,

Sect. VIII.— //« Ecclesiai<tical Ilistori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 951

gatiou of Seceders of Relief, with a Meeting-house, and their minister of
Relief (/i). [The Parish Church was rebuilt in 1838; communicants 218;
stipend £351. A U.P. Church has 87 members.]

The name of Linton parish is derived from that of the kirk-town ; and the
town derived its Celtic appellation from the riveret Lyne or Lyn. The annexa-
tion of the Anglo-Saxon tun to the name of the Li/n, shows that a dwelling or
hamlet was first erected here by Scoto-Saxon hands, on the declivity of a hill
which overlooka the stream. As early as the reign of David I., and during
several centuries afterward, this place was called Linton-Roderick. This ad-
junct is no doubt obtained from the name of some proprietor of old, to dis-
tinguish it from other Lintons. During David's reign, the church of Linton-
Roderick and half a carucate of land, were granted to the monks of Kelso by
Richard Cumin, who was then the lord of the manor (i). This grant was con-
firmed by Malcolm IV. and William his successor, and by several bishops of
Glasgow, the diocesans (Jc). In 11 GO, William de Somerville gave to the
church of Glasgow three acres of laud, " in villa de Lintun, in frauk-cdmoi/ne,
with the tithes (l). In Bagimont's Roll, there is the " vicaria de Lyntoun,"
which is valued at £2 13s. 4d., in the deanery of Peebles. When the old church
of Linton was pulled down in 1782, it appeared to have been built with stones
of an older fabric (m). In the thirteenth century, a chaplainry, which was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was established at Inglistown, in the south-west
corner of Linton parish (n). There was of old a chapel attached to an hospital,
on Lyne water, in this parish, at a place called from it Chapel hill. The seceders

tbe regent Morton built the Droctel-Castle, whicli was not quite finished when he expiated, under the
ase, his many crimes. Stat. Accc, i. 152. The patronage of Newlands, which had been confirmed
to Morton in 15G4, was afterward acquired by the Douglases of Queensberry ; and William, Duke of
Queensberry, transferred this church, with many others in this shire, to his second sou, the Eurl of
March.

(h) Stat. Acco., xxi. 390. (i) Chart. Kelso, 27?,.

(k) lb., 2-12-278-433. In an estimate which the monks of Kelso formed, during Robert I.'s reign,
they valued the church of Linton-Roderick, which they held in rectoria, at 40 marks, its usual worth,
lb. 31. The monks enjoyed the revenues of this rectory till the Reformation, while the cure was
served by a vicar. Chart. Glasg., 199.

(Z) Chart. Glasg., 65. Ernald, the bishop of St. Andrews from 1158 to 1163, was a witness to
this grant. Id. In 1256 Richard, the vicar of Peebles, is mentioned as having been of late the vicar
of Linton. lb., 199.

(m) Stat. Acco., i. 146. There was found in the middle of the walls a sculptured stone with
a crucifix erect, supported by a pair of woolshears, lying across beneath ; but there was no
motto. Id.

(») Chart. Glasgow, 445.

952 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. \ll.—Feebles-shire.

have now a meeting-house at Linton (o). Kobert II. granted to James Douglas
of Dalkeith, the baronies of Kilbothock, and Newlands, and Linton-Rotheryk,
in Peebles-shii-e, on the resignation of James Douglas, his father (p). This
grant evinces that this Linton, as well as Linton in Teviotdale, bore the adjunct
of Rotlieryk, the name of some former possessor. Linton is a market town and
a burgh of regality, having the Earl of March for its superior, and having
annual fairs eveiy Wednesday in June and July {q). Pennecuick, in his poetical
address to the Prince of Orange in 1687, from the town of Lintown, calls it the
suhmelropolilan of Tweeddale (r). [The Parish Church has 300 communicants ;
stipend, .£316. A U.P. Church has 110 members. There is also one Episcopal
Church dedicated to St. Mungo.]

The name of the parish of Kirkurd was formed by prefixing the Scoto-Saxon
kirk, the cyrk of the Anglo-Saxons, to Urd, the Celtic name of the place (s).
The Ovcl, Urd, and Aird, in the Gaelic, signifies an eminence or height, whereof
there are several in the manor of Uixl (t) ; and hence, the Ord-hill of Caith-
ness, the Orc/eful hill, the OrJewhish in Banftshlre. Urd or Ord was of old
the name of a large manor, which appears to have been co-extensive with the
whole parish of Kirkurd {u). In this district there are some other names of
places, which are formed in the same manner from the same root, such as
Ijoch-Urd, ha.dy-Urd, Nether- Z/vy?. The Inquisitio of Earl David in 1116 a.d.,
found that there belonged to the bishopric of Glasgow, Kevc-ayrd, one
carucate of land and a church. The church of Ord was confirmed to the
bishops of Glasgow by the bulls of Pope Alexander in 1170 and 1178, and
by the bulls of Lucius and Urban in 1181 and 1186 {x). The church of
Ord was soon after given to the hospital of Soltre by the bishop of Glasgow,

(o) Companion, 57. In 1792 there were in Linton parish 376 seceders, amounting to 21 of the whole
parishioners. Stat. Acoo., i. 144. (/)) Eobertson's Index, 121 ; Hay's Vindication, 24.'

{q) Description, 11; Companion, 56. The market cross of Linton was erected in 1660 by one
Gifford, a weaver, to perpetuate the memory of his wife and five children ; but it is now much
decayed. Id.

(r) See his Poems, subjoined to his Description of Tweeddale, 1. The Duke of Queensberry was
then baronial lord of Linton. They petition the king to cause the duke " to causey their street from
end," and " to put a clock upon their steeple." This poetical petition contains other circumstances
which displays the local manners of that " ill-favoured age."

is) Davis and Owen.

(t) The Uird, indeed, is the oblique case of Urd, and assumes this form of Uird in composition ;
as, Tom-an-uird, the name of a height in Strathspey ; and even in Sooto-Saxon compounds we always
find the same word spelt Urd, when coupled with a prefix ; but when it stands substantively, it is
generally found in the form of Ord. (») Chart. Glasgow, 185. (.'.) lb., 73-81-91-105.

Sect. Ylll.—lts Ecclesiastical Ilistori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 953

" In proprlos usus." lu 1231, Walter, the bishop of Glasgow, confirmed
the grant of his predecessor (a). As the church oi Kirkurd thus became, by so
many grants, the property of the hospital of Soltre, it was not included in
Bagimont's Tax Roll. Walter Murdak granted some lands to the monks of
Paisley, within the manor of Ord, which was confirmed by a bull of Honorius,
about the year 1226 (6) ; and these lands were included in the rerjaliti/, which
comprehended the whole property of the monks of Paisley, and which was
granted by Robert III. in 1396, and confirmed by James III. in 1451 (c).
Robert I. granted to John Craik the half of the barony of Urde, which he had
obtained in marriage of Edward Cockburn {d). It seems to have come after-
ward into the possession of the Scotts (e). Robert II. granted to Peter Cock-
burn the kirk-land o{ Kirkhuird in Peebles-shire {/). The church of Kirkurd,
which had been granted to the hospital of Soltre, continued with it till 1462,
when Mary of Guelder transferred it to the Trinity Church of Edinburgh, on
condition that the sacrist of the collegiate Church of the Trinity should keep in
repair the church of Kirkurk (rj). A new church for this parish was built in
1766, about half a mile westward from tlie old fabric, which stood within the
domain of Kirkurd. But the ancient burying-ground continues to be used by
those parishioners who reverence the tombs of their fathers (A). [The Parish
Church has 112 communicants ; stipend £213.]

The name of the parish of Stobo was written in the charters of the twelfth
and thirteen centuries, Stohhou. In a few instances, it is variously written
Stoheho, Stuhho, and Stobliope (i). In the Scoto-Saxon, Stob-how means the
Stob-hoUow, the hollow where stobs or stubs abound ; the stob of the Scottish
people being the same as the stub of the English, and signifying equally a
stump of heath or other brush-wood (k). How is the common pronunciation of

(a) Chart. Soltre, No. 40. The grant of the church of Ord was confirmed also by William, the
bishop of Glasgow ; and in 1255 was again confirmed by William de Bondington, the bishop of
Glasgow, who recovered Eddleston, as we have seen. lb., 39 — 2.

(6) Chart. Paisley, No. 149. (c) lb., No. 189 ; MS. Monast. Scotiae, 14.

(fZ) Robertson's Index, 24.

(e) In 1390 Eobert 11. granted to Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, to hold this barony of Kirkurd in
blench, instead of ward. Dougl. Peerage, 100.

(/) lb., 124. {jj) The foundation charter, which corrects Keith, 289.

(h) Stat. Acco., X. 183. The manse and offices were built near the new church in 1788. Id.

(i) Chart, Glasgow throughout.

(Jc) See Stybbe, in Somner and Lye ; and Stnbbe, in Kilian. There are a Stobbo-cleugh and a
Stobbo-hill in Dumfries-shire ; and Stob is a compound in many names, both in Scotland and England.

954 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. VIL—Peehles-shire.

the Anglo-Saxon Hoi, cavus (/), the final (1) being frequently pronounced as
(w). A Celtic etymologist might be ambitious of deriving the name of this
parish from the Gaelic Stua-hoth, signifying the hut or cottage on the ridge.
There is indeed, an ancient tower, which stands on the skirt of a hill near the
mansion house of the manor ; bixt this elevation does not accord with the
Gaelic Stau, which properly signifies a pinnacle or towering ridge. Tiie Scoto-
Saxon derivation is the most natural. The termination hoiv applies, no doubt,
to the hollow or small valley through which runs Weston burn, and the upper
part of this hollow is called Stobo-/io/^es, according to the usual aj? plication
of this term in the south of Scotland, to a dingle without a thoroiif/hfare (m).
Both the church and the manor of Stobo belonged to the diocese of Glasgow,
at the epoch of Earl David's Inquisitio, and they were both confirmed to that
see by several bulls of successive popes, in the twelfth century (n). The
rectory of Stobo was converted into a prebend of Glasgow ; and of all the
prebends in Tweeddale, Stobo was the most valuable (o). In Bagimont's Roll,
there is the " rectoria de Stobo," which is rated at £26 13s. 4d. ; and which is
equal to the Archdeaconiy of Glasgow, Avhereto belonged the rectory of Peebles,
and there is also in that famous tax roll the " vicaria de Stobo," in the deanery
of Peebles, that is rated at £6 13s. 4d. In a Taxatio of the prebends of
Glasgow in 1401, Stobo and Peebles are both equally rated at £5 (^:)). The
church of Stobo is said to be a Gothic building of five centuries erection, and
the remains of a font and other appurtenances of an ancient church, still re-
main within it, to the indignant observation of reformed eyes {(j). Michael
de Dunde, the parson of StuhheJwk swore fealty to Edward I., at Berwick, on
the 28th of August 1296, when the oaths of smaller men were sought for (r).
The rights to the manor of Stobo have been as fiercely contested as the
sov^ereignty of Scotland. Between Walter, the bishop of Glasgow, from 1208

(/) Somner.

(w) In Kincardineshire there is a well-known vale which traverses it from south to north, and
which is called the Ilow of the Mearns.

(n) Chart. Glasgow, 73-103.

(o) Stobo is mentioned in 1313 as a prebend. Ej'm., iii. 785. This rectory and prebend were
composed, by the annexation of the churches of Dawick, of Upper and Lower Drummelzier, and
Broughton ; and all these were called the pendicles of Stobo, which was alone called the prebend.
The minister, indeed, includes Glenholm parish, as one of the pendicles of Stobo ; but it is clear, from
Bagimont's Roll, that Glenholm was an independent rectory. Stat. Acco., iii. 330.

(,p) Chai-t. Glasgow, 490. ((y) Companion to the Map, 95 ; Stat. Acco., iii. 329.

(r) Prynne, iii. 662.

Sect. \Ul.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 955

to 1232, and Jordan de Currokes, about the lands of Stobo, there was a con-
troversy, which was settled under the arbitration of Walter Olifai'd, the
younger, who was justiciary of Lothian, by the bishop paying his adversary
£100 sterling, and this settlement was established by a charter from the
justiciary, testifying the fact (?•). There was soon after a dispute about the
boundaries of Stobo, Hoprewe and Ord, which were finally fixed before eight-
and-twenty neighbours (s), and this settlement was confirmed in 1223 by a
charter of Alexander II. (t). There was between William, the bishop of Glas-
gow, from 1233 to 1258, and Mariota, the daughter of Samuel, another contest
about the lands of Stobo, which was settled by Gilbert Fraser, the sheriff of
Traquair, in pursuance of the king's precept. The bishop again purchased his
adversary's claim. In consideration of an annuity of ten marks out of the
manor of Eddleston, Mariota came into the sheriff"s court and acknowledged
the bishop's right to the manor of Stobo (x). The church of Lyne parish, which
adjoins Stobo parish on the east, was a chapel belonging to the mother church
of Stobo, at the end of the twelfth century (i/). The church of Broughton
parish, which also adjoins Stobo parish on the west, was likewise a chapel be-
longing to the church of Stobo, in the same age (z). That portion of Stobo
parish which lies on the south-east side of the Tweed, was annexed to it in
1742, when the old parish of Dawick was suppressed, and part of it was annexed
to Stobo, and another portion of it to Drummelzier (a). [The Parish Church
has 106 communicants ; stipend £243.

The church of Manor was of old merely a chapel of the rectory of Peebles.
The church of Peebles, " cum capella de Maineur," was confirmed to the bishop
of Glasgow by Pope Urban, in J181 (b). Thus connected, the rectory of the
one and the chaplainry of the other, seem to have adhered to eacli other. The
rectory of Peebles, and Manor, formed tlie prebend of the archdeacon of Glas-
gow, and were rated together in Bagimont's Roll, at the high valuation of £26
13s. 4d. In the Taxatio of the prebends of Glasgow in 1401, Peebles and
Manor are rated each at £5 (c). The old church of Manoi-, which was called
St. Gordian's kirk, stood four miles distant from the present church, that was
itself built about the middle of the seventeenth century (d). Yet St. Gordian's

(r) Chart. Glasgow, 171. («)llb., 183. (t) lb., 238.

(u) lb., 273-5. {x) lb., 279. (y) lb., 145. (.-) lb., 53.

(a) Stat. Acco., iii. 329. (b) Chart of Glasgow, 104. (c) lb., 490.

(d) Stat. Acco. iii. 387. Near Manorhead stood that St. Gordian's kirk, whereof nothing is now

956 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Vll.—reehles-shue.

chapel seems not to have been the parish church. About a mile and a half
south-west from the present kirk-town and church of Manor, there is a hamlet
called Manortown, and a little southward there is an old fortalice on the
summit of a round hill, which is named from the strength Castle hill. This was,
no doubt, the baronial residence of the lord of the manor, and near it must
have stood of old the chapel of Manor. The present kirk-town is but a lonely
hamlet, consisting of the church, the manse, the school-house, the mill, and a
few cottages. On the south-west of it at no great distance, there still remains
a pedestal, which is called the Font-stone, and is absurdly supposed, by Arm-
strong, not to be what the name Impoi'ts it to have been, but the support of a
cross, and this pedestal no doubt, supported the font of the ancient church of
Manor. Alexander III. granted to William Biddebie the lands of Manor in
Peebles-shire, which were confirmed by Robert I. (e). A grant of Alexander to
John Biddebie of the lands of Manner, was also confirmed by the same king {f).
Robert I. granted the manor of Mener, " in valle de Twede," to Adam
Marshall ((/), and Robert granted to Alexander Biddebie the barony of Mener,
upon the resignation in parliament of Ade Marshal {h). Robert III. granted
to Sir William Inglis the barony of Maner, to hold blench of the crown ; in
consideration of the slaughter of Thomas Struther, an Englishman, in single
combat, reserving however, to Sir William Gladstanes, the lands which he
possessed in the same barony with the old superiority ii). [The Parish Church,
rebuilt in 1873-74, has 154 communicants ; stipend, £314.

The parish of Drummelzier took its singular name from the kirk-town, which
stands on a ridge. Drym in the British, and Druim in the Irish, both signify
a ridge, and the prefix Drum, alludes, no doubt, to the ridge on the north
end whereof may be seen the ruins of Drummelzier castle. The affix millier
is not so easily explained. Drum-'eallur in the Irish would signify, indeed,
the ridge of earth, or the earthen ridge {h). The whole word is probably the
British Drym-meiliaur, signifying the dwelling on, or at the ridge {I), and
the Scoto-Irish, who succeeded the Britons here, finding such a word analogous
to their own, may have contributed by their usage to the continuance of the

to be seen but the rubbisb and ruins. Description, 19. In Newliolmhope is the scarce discernible
remains of St. Gorgham's chapel, saith Armstrong, the surveyor. Companion. 70. In tlie Lives of
the Saints, 1G36, p. 272-5, we may see that Gordian was martyred by the apostate Juhan, on the 10th
of May, 213 A.D. How he came to be recollected here so strongly as to have a chapel dedicated to
him in Newholmhope, I know not.

(e) Robertson's Index, 24. (/) Id. {(j) Id. (h) lb., 24-28. (t") lb., 137.

(Ic) See Teallur, in Shaw. The oblique case is Theallur, the th being quiescent.

\l) See Owen's W. Diet.

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histori/.'] Of NORTH-BRITAIN. 9.i7

original term which was so descriptive of the thing. The present parish is
composed of the old district of Lower-Drummelzier, and of the southern half of
the old parish of Dawick, which was annexed to it in 1742 [m). Before the
Reformation, Drummelzier was a vicarage of the rectory of Stobo. The Parish
Church of Drummelzier stands on Powsail rivulet which falls into the Tweed,
a little below, near the kindred grave of the wizard Merlin. Of the church
Grose has preserved the remembrance in his antiquities {n). At Kingledoors,
in the upper part of this parish, there was formerly a chapel dedicated to St.
Cuthbert, the early evangelist of Tvveedside. During the reign of Alexander
III., Symon Fraser, the father, who died in 1291, gi'anted to the monks of
Melrose the lands of South-Kingledoors, with the chapel of St. Cuthbert and
the lands of Hopcarshire (o). Dawick is the abbreviated pronunciation of
Dalwich, which, in the Anglo-Saxon, signifies the dioelling in the dale. There
are still two hamlets named East-Dawick and West-Dawick in the old parish,
which lay along the south-east side of the Tweed. Before the Reformation
the church of Dawick was a vicarage of Stobo. The parish of Dawick was sup-
pressed, as we have seen, in 1742, when the greater part of it was annexed to
Drummelzier (p). The ruins of Daivick chm-ch stood on Scrape Burn, about a
quarter of a mile southward of New-Posso {q). [The Parish Church has 72
communicants ; stipend, £270.]

TwEEDSMUiR parish derived its name from the nature of the country which
it comprehends, being the moorish district along the heights from which the
Tweed and its tributary streams descend (s). This parish was formerly called
Upper-Drummelzier ; and before the Reformation it was a vicarage of Stobo,
which, as a mother church and a jDrebend of the cathedral of Glasgow, had so
many dependencies. The two Drummelziers were connected with each other
till 1643, when the present parish of Tweedsmuir was established. The church
was erected in 1648, on a small mount called Quarter-know, which, as tradition

(m) On November 1728, the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale took under consideration a proposal
Jor disiacmbennj the parish of Dawick, which had been vacant nine years, and annexing it to Lyne and
Stobo, because of the small number of parishioners and lowness of the stipend ; but the motion was
rejected, and the presbytery of Peebles was appointed to settle a minister ; yet, with instructions to use
all moderate methods to gain the cordial consent of Sir James Naysmyth, the heritor of that parish.
Edin. Courant, 2144. (n) See the view in his Antiq. Scot., ii. 224.

(o) OfScers of State, 270 ; but Crawfurd has mistakingly put Kelso, for Melrose. This grant was
confirmed by Sir Symon Fraser, the son. lb., 271.

(^;) Companion, 31 ; Stat. Acco., iii. 329. (5) Companion, 34.

(s) From Somner, we may learn that Mor signifies both a hill and a heath. The Scottish form of
moor is nwir.

4 6 D

958 AnACCOUNT [Ch. TiL— Peebles-shire.

relates, was of old a place of Druid worship {t). A drawing of this modern
church may be seen in Grose's Antiquities (?<). In the centre of this parish
there was formerly a chapel near Hawkshaw, on Fruid water, with its accom-
panying cemetery, which both remain, the one in ruins and the other in use {x).
Such, then, are the appropriate notices of the twelve parishes which constitute
the present presbytery of Peebles. [The Parish Church of 1874-75 has 103
communicants ; stipend, £378.]

In 1692, four parishes, Glenholm, Kilbucho, Skirling and Broughton, wei'e
torn from the side of Peebles and conjoined to the presbytery of Biggar.

Glenholm parish consists of a vale which is nearly seven miles long and two
miles broad, and which is drained by Holms w^ater ; the original name of the
stream being concealed in the Scoto-Saxon innovation. The present appellation
was appropriated by the incomers, who did not know the significance of the
original, and called it Holm, or Holms Water, from the number of flats along
its banks (y). The church of Glenholm is supposed to have been a vicarage of
Stobo (2) ; but there is reason for suspecting the truth of this intimation.
For Glenholm, in the deanery of Peebles, appears in Bagimont's Roll as an
independent rectory ; and it is therein rated at £4. None of the churches
which belonged to the rector of Stobo, are rated in Bagimont's Taxation. The
parish church of Glenholm was rebuilt in 1775 («). In the upper part of Glen-
holm, there was formerly a chapel at a place called ChcqxJgill. [In 1804, this
parish was united with Kilbucho to Broughton.]

The name of the parish of Kilbucho, which has undergone successive corrup-
tions, was originally applied to a chapel, that was dedicated in early times to
St. Bega (b). To the name of the saint, whoever the holy person were, the
Scoto-Irish Oil, signifying a church or a chapel, was prefixed. In the charters
of the twelfth century, the name of this parish was written Kil-heckhoc. In sub-

(<) Companion, 104 ; Stat. Acco., viii., 8G-8. (») Vol. ii., 224.

(a) About the 3-ear 1775, a bust of General Monk is said to have been discovered here. Com-
panion, 107. Yet, how the bust of such a man could have been deposited in such a place, it is not
easy to conjecture.

(»/) Stat. Acco., iv. 429. Holm, isle; Holmur, Islandic ; Holme, Swedish; and Holm, in the
ancient Saxon, a river islet, a flat covered with herbage and surrounded with water. Bullet, in
vo. Holm. (;) Stat. Acco., iv., 429; iii., 321. (a) Companion, 43.

(6) The church of Kilbucho was called of old St. Bez, saith Doctor Pennecuick. Description, 28.
St. Bez is the familiar name of St. Bega. Tradition has preserved in this parish many particulars of
this memorable saint. Stat. Acco., iv. 344. The church of Kilbucho was dedicated to St. Bade, saith
Armstrong mistakingly ; and a spring of pure water in the vicinity of it still retains the same name.
Companion to the Map, 30. For St. Bega, a female saint, from the island of saints, see Leland's Col.,
t. iii. 39 ; Dugdale's Monast., i. 395. Her house was at St. Bees, in Cumberland, a cell of St. Mary
of York. But there was also a female St. Bega in Scotland, who performed wonders at Kilbeg,
according to Dempster's Menologium, 6th September.

Sect. YIll.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNORTH-BBITAIN. D59

sequent writings the name was written Kil-bochoc, Kil-bocho, Kil-bucho, and
sometimes Kirk-bucho. Cospatric, hermit of Kylbethoc and Gillebert, tlie
parson of Kylbethoc, were present as witnesses to the settlement of the
marches of Stobo, Hopreu, and Ord (c). In Bagimont's roll the "rectoria
cum vicaria de Kil-bocho," in the deanery of Peebles, wei-e rated at £8. Tlds
continued a rectory from the twelfth century to the Reformation, and the
patronage appears to have belonged to the lord of the manor. At the accession
of Robert I., the manor of Kilbethoc belonged to the Grahames of Dalkeith
and Abercorn, from whom it passed to the Douglases, under David II., who
granted the lands ^ Kilbethoc and Newlands to William Douglas on the
resignation of John Grahame of Dalkeith (c^). Robert II. granted to James
Douglas of Dalkeith the baronies of Kilbothoc and Newlands and Linton, on
the resignation of James Douglas, his father (e). There is a charter of Francis
and Mary, stating the sale of the barony of Kilbucho by Malcolm, Lord
Fleming, to James, Earl of Morton, with a right of I'edemption ; and trans-
ferring this right of redemption from Malcolm to John, Lord Fleming (f). [In
1804 this parish was united to Broughton.]

The parish of Skirling derives its name from the kirk-town, and the village
takes its appellation from the rivulet which runs through it, and drives a mill
below. In several charters of the fourteenth century the name is written
Skrawlyne and Scraline (g). In Font's map of this shire the name is printed
Skarlin (h) ; and Armstrong, in his new map, calls it Scarline (i). This sort
of metathesis is common in the topography of North-Britain ; so we have
Stirling for Strivelin, and Crail for Cavil. If Skrawline be considered as
the original name, it may be derived from the British Y.sgraiv-lya, signifying the
rivulet or the pool which is apt to form a scum or crust (k) ; or Sgrai-liae, in
the Gaelic, would signify the rivulet having green-swarded banks (Z). If

(c) Chart. Glasgow, 135-6. Gamelin, the parson of Kylbethoc, and Gilbert, the parson of Kylbethoc,
are mentioned in a charter during the thirteenth century. lb., 44.3.

(d) Robertson's Index, 54 ; Eegist. Rob. II. Rot, v. 75. In October 1564, the well-known
chancellor. Earl of Morton, obtained a confirmation of Kilbucho, with the advowson of the church
and other estates. Pari. Rec, 763. («) lb., 121 ; Hay's Vindication, 24.

(/) This charter was dated at Paris, the 16th January, 1558. Diplom. ScotiiE, pi. 68. During
the reign of Charles I., the barony of Kilbucho, with the patronage of the church, was acquired by
John Dickson ; and they both continue to belong to his descendant. In June 1640, John Dickson
obtained from Parliament a ratification of the lands of Hartree and Kilbucho, with the patronage of
the church and the lease of the tithes thereof, with the annuity. Unprinted Act.

{g) Robertson's Index. (h) In Blaeu's Atlas Scotiae.

(t) Map of Peebles-shire. (k) Owen's W. Diet.

(/) On the margin of the rivulet, within the village, there is a flat green, of about an acre and a half,
which the houses seem to inclose in a semicircular form ; yet, whether all these existed in early times
may admit of a doubt.

960 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. YU.— Peeblesshire.

Scarh'n be considered as the original name, then the derivation might be from
the British Ysgar-Iyn, the dividing rivulet. The brook, in fact, runs through
the middle of the present straggling village of Skirling ; and it is more than
probable that the British hamlet here stood, in a similar manner, on either
side of the rivulet or lyn. In Bagimont's Eoll there are "i-ectoria cum
vicaria de Scrahjne" in the deanery of Peebles rated at £6 13s. 4d. Robert I.
granted to John Moufode the barony of SJcrau-Jine, with the advowson of the
church (jh). Margaret Monfode granted an annuity of two marks sterling out
of the lands of Scraline to a chaplain in the church of Dunmanyn, and this
gift was confinned by David II. in 1362 (n). The church of Skirling was
rebuilt in 1720. The manse was built in 1636, and rebuilt in 1725 (o).
Skirling is a populous village, having two annual fairs, on the first Wednesday
after the 11th of June and the 15th of September {p). [The Parish Church
has 85 communicants ; stipend, £342. There is also a Free Church, with 99
members.]

The parish of Broughton took its name from the kirk-town, and the name
of the village in its present form might be derived from the Anglo-Saxon Buryh,
which, by a familiar change, is pronounced Brugh, signifying a fortlet, and tun,
a dwelling. But in the charter of Radulph Nanus, which was granted in the
period between 1174 and 1180 a.d., the name of this hamlet was written re-
peatedly Broctun, whereof Brought on is doubtless a corruption. Broc, in the
British, Gaelic, and Anglo-Saxon, means a badger or gray ; so Broc-tun
would signify badger town. Yet may it be derived from the Anglo-Saxon
Brora, rivus, rivulus, whence the English brook, and tun, a dwelling. Now,
the hamlet and church of Broughton are, in fact, situated on a brook. It is,
however, probable that the name of the village may have derived its origin
from some person called Broc, whose tun or residence it was of old ; and
there have been always persons of this name in North-Britain {q). Eadulph
Nanus gave to the chapel of Brortun half a carucate of land, in Brortun, in
frank-almoyne, with a toft, a croft, and common of pasture, with other ease-
ments to such lands belonging ; and he conceded to the see of Glasgow that

(m) Eobertson's Index, 24. (h) lb., 72. (o) Stat. Acco., iii. 254.

(;)) Companion, 94. On the 26th of March, 1567, the castle of Edinburgh was surrendered to
Cockburn of Skirling, for the queen. The same day a tempest of wind blew awaj' the tail of the
weathercock on the steeple of Edinburgh. This, saith Birrel, Diary 7, fulfilled the old prophecy :

" Quhen Skirling sail be captain,
The cock sail want his tnill.''
We have seen that another prophecy was accomplished, when Skirling house was blown up, by order of
the regent Murray, on the 12th of June 1568.

(q) We must remember, however, that there is a parish in Linlithgowshire called Stra-broc, which
is undoubtedly a Gaelic name, signifying the vale of broca.

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Historij.'] 0 f N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N . 961

the chapel of Broctun should appertain as a vicarage to the mother chui'ch of
Stobo, and this grant Rudulph, with his son Richard, confirmed by their oaths
before Joceline, the bishop of Glasgow, and other witnesses, so solemn were the
grants of those religious times (r). Broctun continued till the Reformation a
vicarage of Stobo. David II. confirmed a grant by Edward Hadden to his wife,
of the lands of Brochton, in Peebles-shire it). Robert, the Duke of Albany,
granted to John de Hawden the lands of Brochton, in Peebles-shire, with other
estates in Roxburghshire, on the resignation of William de Hawden, his father (w).
The barony of Broughton, saith Armstrong, comprehends the whole parish
except Burnetland ix). The village of Broughton was rebuilt in a handsome
manner by its liberal proprietor, the late James Dickson, and it has the benefit
of an yearly fair (?/). Thus much, then, with regard to the sixteen parishes of
this shire, which are comprehended in the two pi'esbyteries of Biggar and
Peebles. [The Parish Church (1804) has 275 communicants; stipend, £400.
The parishes of Kilbuchoand Glenholm were conjoined with Broughton in 1804.
A Free Chui'ch at Broughton village has 137 members].

There is immediately subjoined, as a useful supplement, a Tabular State,
containing some instructive particulars of each parish ; and to all those intima-
tions may be additionally mentioned some other notices of a parochial sort. A
small part of Inverleithen parish lies in Selkirkshire iz). The stipends of the
whole parishes in Peebles-shire were augmented previous to 1798, except those of
Kirkurd and Newlands. The annual value of the glebes were included in the
estimate of the stipends of the whole parishes in 1798, but not the value of the
minister's manses (a). In this shire there are no Jki' pnces, because in it there
are no feu-duties payable into the royal Exchequer.

(r) The witnesses were John the abbot of Kelso, Richard, the abbot of Jedburgh, Symon, the arch-
deacon of Glasgow, Richard, the dean of Theviotdale, Peter, the dean of Cludesdal. Chart. Glasgow,
53. John was abbot of Kelso from 1160 to 1180 ; and Richard was abbot of Jedburgh from 1174 to
1192. So that this instructive charter was granted between the years 1174 and 1180.

(s) Robertson's Index, 59. {t) lb. 148. («) lb. 164.

(a;) Companion, 29. (y) Id. ; Stat. Acco. vii. 156.

{z) The population of the whole parish of Inverleithen, in 1755, was 559 ; in 1791, 560; and in
1801, 609.

(a) That part of the stipends which is paid in victual is paid in beer, or big, and in oatmeal,
generally in equal parts, and of equal value. In estimating the stipends of 1798, the beer and oat-
meal were valued at the moderate rate of 15s. per boll, according to a seven years' average of the prices
preceding 1798. In this shire the boll of barley and oats contains sis bushels fourteen pints, and
twenty-one cubic inches, English standard measure, which is ten pints more than the standard
Linlithgow boll. '

962

An account

[Ch. Yll.— Peebles-shire.

The Tabulab State.

Extent Inhabitants.

Parishes. in ^

Acres. 1755. 1801. 1881. k

Peebles, -

Lyne,

Linton,

Drummelzier,

Stobo,

EddlestoD,

Kirkurd, -

Manor,

Tweedsmuir,

Inverleithen,

Traquair, -

Newlands,

Glenholm,

Eilbncho, -

Skirling, -

Broughton,

Ch arches.

D W

Stipends.

1755.

1798.

Past Patrons.

16,686
2,79.3
23,420
18,029J
10,372j
18,590
5,704i
16,671
32,612|
24,1221
17,600
12,560

3,427i
18,12U

1,896 2,088 4,059 1 1
265 167 204 1 —
831 1.064 1,117 1 —

305
313
679
310
320
397
498
651
1,009
392
279
335
367

278
338
677
327
308
277

208
467
711
282
277
215

542 3,661
613 754

950
242
342
308
214

819

274
667

1 —

I —

1 —

1 --

2 1
1 —
1 1

1 1
1 1

£ S. D. £ S. D.

2 1 1 107 10 0 164 3 4 The Dnke of Queensberry, as

— — - 61 1 1 121 3 4 The Duke of Queensberry, as
1 1 — 68 12 8 152 13 4 The Duke of Queensberry, as

_ _ _ 84 18 0 139 12 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as

— — — 90 13 10 137 0 0 Sir J. Montgomery.

— - — 71 13 4 153 17 0 Lord Elibank.

— — — 64 69 90 20 Carmichael of Skirling.

— — — 56 4 5 115 16 10 The Duke of Queensberry, as
_ _ _ 68 0 0 121 0 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as

— — 1 59 16 3 130 1 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as

— — — 73 3 0 136 6 0 The King.

— — — 77 15 6 126 0 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as

— — - 56 7 9 127 13 4 The Duke of Queensberry, as

— — — 56179 126 00 Dickson of Kilbncho.

— - — 58 11 1 118 11 0 Carmichael of Skirling.

— — — 63 18 10 114 0 0 The Duke of Queensberry, as

Earl of March.
Earl of March.
Earl of March.
Earl of March.

Earl of March.
Earl of March.
Earl of March.

Earl of March.
Earl of March.

Earl of March.

Sect. I.— Its Name.] Op N 0 RT H -BEIT AI N.

CHAP. VIII.

Of Selkirkshire.

§ I. Of its name.l AS Roxburghshire derived its appellation from its castle,
Selkirkshire obtained its name from its church, the town having borrowed a
distinguished designation from the ancient kirk, and the sheriffwick its name
from the town. In the early charters of the twelfth centuiy the word is gene-
rally written Selechyrche, in one instance, indeed, it appears in the I^atin form
of Scelechyrca, and in another example of doubtful authority Seleschirche (a).
Sel forms the prefix of many names of places in England, as >Se^by, /SeZ-ham,
/Se?-hurst, *SeZ-sted (b) ; and Bishop Gibson instructs us, by his topograjDhical
rules, that Sel denotes great, as >Se^-tun signifies magnum oppidum, so Selchyrc
is the great church or the good church (c). Yet, as the occasion of the church
in the forest arose from the circumstance of the king's having a hunting-seat
here, the place of his worship may have been called Sele-c\\yvc, from the Saxon
Sele, a hall, a prince's court {d). When a second church was built nearly on
the same site, after the establishment of the monastery at this hunting-seat, the
prior place was distinguished by the name of Selkii-k-Regis, while the village of
the monks was called Selkirk-^ifta^is (e),

(a) Chart. Kelso. In Earl David's foundation charter of the monastery here, the name is \rritten
Selechyrche and Scelechyrcha. Sir James Dalrymple's Col., 403. In the more modern charter of
Malcolm IV., the name is mistakingly written Seleschirche. Diplom. Scotise, pi. xxiv.

(b) Adams's Villare.

(c) See Cowel on the same point. Sel, however, signifying great, is, in an extended sense, from
the Anglo-Saxon Sel, bonus, bene, satis. See Somner and Lye.

(d) See Somner.

(e) Chart. Kelso. Lord Hailes, indeed, whose peculiar notions deserve some regard, says, Seleschirche
means the church in the wilderness, and that Seles, in the Anglo-Saxon, signifies a desert ; but he does
not quote his authority. Seles is not to be found in the Saxon dictionaries, in his sense ; and, more-
over, Seleschirche is a solitary and corrupt reading of the term. Annals, i. 96. There was a commis-
sion of Alexander II., dated at Selechirck. Chart. Newbotle, 130. And there was a grant of the
same king, given at Selechirch on the 7th of June, 1233. Chart. Kelso, 392.

964 AnACCOUNT [Ch. VIII. — Selkirkshire.

Yet the area of this shii-e had a very different appellation in stUl more early
times. As the Tweed supplied a name to the vale through which it took its
highest course, so the Ettrick lent its Celtic appellation to the well-wooded
country through which it flowed. The Scoto-Saxon kings, finding sport
throughout Ettrick woodlands, very early established a hunting-seat at Selkirk,
which gave rise to the town, and in the same age formed their hunting-
grounds into a forest ; and the principal river which watered and adorned
those extensive woodlands naturally gave its name to the country. Hence,
from the epoch of record to recent times, this country has been called in
charters, Ettrick forest, and the forest, for its pre-eminence, for its vert and
venery. The name of the Ettrick is of doubtful origin, though it may be
allowed to be of Celtic derivation. Eitrigh, in the Gaelic, signifies a furrow
or trench {f) ; and Eithrach means, in the same speech, a wildei'ness (7).
But this fine river must have had a distinguished name before the proper
Gaelic was spoken on its banks, and the British aborigines undoubtedly
gave an appropriate appellation to this picturesque stream. The Ed of their
language signifies a current, and Terig, mud (li) ; and, in fact, when the
Ettrick is in flood, it is extremely muddy from the quantity of earth which
it carries away from every bank. In its usual flow the Ettrick is clear, as it
glides over a gravelly channel and rushes through rocks or stagnates some-
times on clay. During the whole Scoto-Saxon period, the Scottish kings who
delighted in the chase, according to the manners of the age, appointed their
foresters in this extensive forest, as we may see in the chartularies. Edward I.,
when by intrigue and force he succeeded them, appointed his own favourites
as his foresters ; and Robert I., when he restored the Scottish monarchy by
his fortitude and valour, granted to his able supporter. Sir James Douglas,
the forests of Selkirk, of Ettrick and Traquair which adjoined them, in a free
barony {i). Timothy Pont named his map of this country "the sherifidom of

(/) Lluyd's Arch, in vo. (y) Id. O'Brien and Shaw's Diet.

(h) The British Ed, in composition, changes to Et. In South-Wales there is a river of this name ;
but the syllables, in its formation, have been reversed into Teric-Ed. In a charter of Alexander II.
to the monks of Kelso, the Ettrick of Selkirkshire is repeatedly mentioned by the various
names of Ettric and Ethyric. Chart. Kel., 54. Another charter of the same king confirms
some lands to the same monks for supporting the bridge of Ettrick. lb., 392. In 1258
the abbot of Kelso held his baronial courts, "apud pontem de Eterig." lb., 217. There is an
Etterick loch in Dumfries-shire ; and there is an Etterick water in the western division of the large
shu-e of Perth.

(i) Roberts. Index, 10. The shire, however, was not granted ; but remained in the crown. David
XL's grant to Dalyel proves this important point. Regist. David II.

Sect. 11.— Its Situation and Extent.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 965

" Ettrick-forest, called also Selkirk," (k) and Ainslie denominated his delinea-
tion of the same district, Selkirkshire or Ettrich-forest (l).

§ II. Of its Situation and Extent.] The country which has thus been
variously known through many an age, as Selkirkshire or Ettrick-forest, has
Peebles-shire on the west, Dumfries-shire on the south, Roxburghshire on the
east, where it is bounded by the Shaw burn, and on the north it has a pai-t of
Edinburghshire and a division of Roxburghshire (m). It is 27 [28] miles long
from south-west to noi'th-east, and 16 [17] miles broad, exclusive of a small de-
tached pai't, on the east. It contains a superficies of 257 [260] square miles, or
166,448 [166,524] statute acres, and the population of this shire, according to
the enumeration of 1801, being 5,446, this gives a population of nearly 21 to a
square mile. This shire was first surveyed by Timothy Pont during the
afflictive reign of Charles I. (n). It was again delineated by John Ainslie, who
published his map in 1772 ; and there is a very useful sketch prefixed to
the Agricultural Survey, by the Rev. Doctor Douglas, of this shire, which, as
we have seen above, is not of great extent, and is of a very irregular form (o).

§ III. Of its Natural Ohjects.] With the exception of a very narrow portion
on its eastern side, Selkirkshire may be said to be a continued alternation of
hill and dale. Many of the eminences rise to considerable heights (p). The

(k) Blaeu's Atlas Scotise, No. 5. (I) See Ainslie's Survey of 1772.

(ot) Selkirkshire lies between 55° 22' 20", and 55" 41' 54" north latitude; and between 2" 47' 40"
and 3° 18' 46" longitude west of Greenwich. The shire-town stands in 55° 34' 10" north latitude,
and 2° 52' longitude west of Greenwich. Selkirk town is situated, according to the result of the
barometer, 520 feet above the level of the sea. Edin. Philosoph. Essays, iii., xvii.

(n) His map was published by Blaeu in his Atlas Scotiir, No. 5.

(o) Nor do its boundaries in general, according to that able writer, run alon^ the summits of
mountains, or the course of streams, which however crooked, would afford evident marks for descrip-
tion. A line merely ideal, and often whimsical, divides it in very many places from the surrounding
counties.

( ;)) The following detail will exhibit the heights of the most remarkable hiUs in Selkirkshire above

the level of the sea, according to Ainslie's map of this shire : —

Feet.
Blackhouse heights, ........ 2,370 [2,213]

Windlestraw law, ........ 2,295 [2,161]

Minchmoor, ......... 2,280 [1,856]

Ettrick-Pen, ......... 2,200 [2,469]

Law Kneis, ......... 1,990

Ward law, ......... 1,980 [1,951]

4 6 E

966 AnACCOUNT [Ch. YlH—SelUrkshire.

hills are in general clothed in green, though some parts of them are discoloured
by I'usset. The centre of the country, on the south of the Forth, does not rise
to so great an elevation as the base of the heights on the north of the Forth.
The valleys on the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and on the upper streams of the
Tweed, which may be deemed the centre of southern Scotland, are not much
more than five hundred feet above the level of the sea (5) ; while the level of
the vale of Badenoch on the Spey, is at least a thousand feet above the sea
level. The numerous valleys that separate the heights of this shire, are gene-
rally confined to a narrow space by the acclivities on either side. Even the
vales of the larger rivers, the Ettrick, the Yarrow, the Tweed, and the Gala,
seldom expand themselves to any width, owing to the approximation of the
mounts. From those vales, however, shoot out many cleiighs and hopes, that
run up a considerable distance between the heights (r), and each of those vales
sends out its appropriate streamlet, which augments the rivers with its con-
genial waters.

Feet.

Hangingsbaw law, ........ 1,980 [1,044]

Three Brethren, ........ 1,978 [1,523]

Black Andrew, -..--.... 1,966 [1,364]

Pent law, ......... 1,964

Megal hiU, ......... 1,480

Old Ettrick hill, ........ 1,800

Shawshill, ......... 1,212

The hills as estimated by Ainslie have been supposed, by skilful persons, to be rather too high.

(q) The descent of the watere may be determined from the following heights on their banks : —

Feet.

Pot bum, ...-.-....- 786

The junction of Tema water, .....--. 664

Yarrow lochs, .......... 560

The Tweed, at Cardrona, ..-.--... 529

The Tweed, at Traquair, -...-.--- 510

Cadon water, at Cadonhead, ........ 480

Deuchar bridge, ......---. 458

Ettrick bridge, .......... 440

Gala water, at Crosslee toll.bar, ........ 380

Selkirk bridge, .......... 340

The Tweed, at the foot of Gala water, ....... 286

(r) Cleugh, from the Anglo-Saxon Clough, a fissure, or opening in a height, is generally

applied, in the south of Scotland, to a narrow vale or glen. The word Hope, which is derived

from the old French, as we learn from Bullet, is applied to a small and short valley, which is

close at the upper end. This application of the Hope is confined to the south-east of Scotland,

Sect. Ill— Its Natural Objects.'] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 967

Of lakes, Selkirkshire, though an interior and mountainous region, cannot
boast. The only considerable collection of water is St. Mary's loch, on the
western extremity of this shire, which derived its name from a church that was
early dedicated to the Virgin, on its north-western margin. This lake is about
three miles long and about half a mile broad. It receives into its bosom the
Yarrow and Megget waters, with several smaller streams ; and its outlet is the
Yarrow, which adds so much to the beauty and convenience of this shire (s).
Immediately above St. Mary's lake, the loch of the lows forms a much smaller
bason on the Yarrow (t). There are here two lochs, which are only separated
by a narrow and level neck of a hundred yards in length, that furnishes a
channel for the Yarrow, from the loch above, to St. Mary's loch below. The
loch of the lows breeds chiefly perch and pike, which delight in such waters.
These, then, are the lakes on the western extremity of this shire. On the
south-east of it, there are only a few small lochs ; such as Alemoor loch, King's-
moor loch, Crooked loch, Shaws lochs, Oaker-moor loch, the overflowuig of
which collections are discharged by the upper drains of the Ale and Ciaybui'n
loch, that is emptied by Rankle burn, a feeder of the Ettrick. The size of
these lochs varies from a mile and a half to a mile in circumference. They do
not abound in any great variety of fishes, most of them having perch and pike,
and some of them ti'out (n).

A country consisting of green hills and " bushy dells," lying under a moist
climate, must abound in rills and riverets, but the Ettrick and the Yarrow
are the principal drains of Selkirkshire. The Ettrick rises among the moun-
tains, in the south-west extremity of the shire, at a place, called from its
source, Ettrich-head. Among a thousand streamlets which find oblivion in

in Lothian, in Eoxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles, and Dumfries ; and this word, which was not familiar to
the Scoto-Sasons, may have been introduced into those countries by the An.ylo-Normans who
settled there during the reigns of David I., and of his two grandsons, Malcolm and William
the Lion.

(i) Ainslie's map of this shire. St. Mary's loch, says Dr. Douglas, surpasses any lake in the south
of Scotland for its extent and beauty. Its banks are fringed with copse-wood. Agi-icult. Survey, 235.
It breeds perch and pike. Stat. Acco., iii., 295.

(t) Loivs is a mere corruption of lotiyhs, which is only a Saxon corruption of lochs, as we may see
in the maps of Ireland. The English map-makers constantly convert the lochs of that Celtic country
into lotighs, not being able to pronounce the ch like the Gaelic people. The loch of the lows is the
same as the loch of the lochs. The same pleonastic appellation of Loch of the lows is applied to two
adjoining lakes in Ayrshire. The loch of the Irish is merely the llivch of the British, signifying a
collection of water.

(ii) Stat. Acco., ii. 537.

968 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. Ylll.—SelkirMire.

the Ettrick, the most considerable are the Rankle burn and the Tenia water (x).
After a course of five-and-twenty miles, the Ettrick is joined by its rival, Yarrow,
above Selkirk town, and the united stream falls into the Tweed three miles
below (y). Though the Ettrick (2) is not so celebrated in Scottish lyrics as the
Yarrow or Tweed, yet have not Ettrick hanks been quite forgotten in the
"enraptur'd shepherd's song" («).

The Yarrow rises in those heights where the shires of Selkirk, Dumfries, and
Peebles meet. After traversing the loch of the lows and St. Mary's loch, the
Yarrow pushes forward with rapid violence, collecting in its devious course
the Douglas burn, with other mountain streams, till it joins the Ettrick above
Selkirk town (b). Its whole coarse of one-and- twenty miles is on a rocky and
gi'avelly bottom, and is the roughest and most precipitous river in this
country. It was from this prominent quality that it obtained from the British
people its remarkable name. Ganv in their language, Garow in the Cornish,
and Farhh, which in the Gaelic has the same pronunciation, signify what is
rough or a torrent (c) ; and this descriptive name was often applied by the
Britons to several mountain torrents, both in North and South Britain ;
the (g) of the Britons, as well as the (z) of the Saxons, being frequently sup-
planted by the English (y), so that Gariv has become Yarw and Yarrotv.
This change appears, however, to have been made on the name of this river
since the twelfth century (d). The same change of the (d) into (y) has taken

(,r) The rivulet "de Titneye" is mentioned in a cliarter of Alexander II. to the monks of Melrose,
as falling into the Etterick. Chart., 64.

{y) Ainslie's map of the shire. All those streams, as they have not been polluted by manufactures,
abound in excellent trout. Stat. Acco., iii. 295.

{z) North from the Shaws is a mile to the bridge of Ettrick, consisting of two large arches and one
small arch ; the pillars whereof are built upon a rock, and it has Scot of Harden's arms on its front.
It is four miles to the south-west of Selkirk. Hodge's MS. Relation, 1722.

(a) Ritson's Scots Songs, 23.

(4) Fiom Hangingshaw are three miles to Yarrow bridge, of two arches, built of freestone, having
the Duchess of Buccleuch's arms on the fore-front of it ; and at the north-west end of this bridge
stood the old tower of Deuchar. Hodge's MS. Relation, 1722.

{d) In the foundation cliarter of Selkirk abbey, by Earl David, before the year 1124, this river is
frequently mentioned by the Latin name of Garua. Chart. Kelso, No. 4. But Sir James Dalrymple,
in his Hist. Col., 403, has mistakingly written this word Gierna, having misunderstood the a or ie.
It was again spelt Garua in the subsequent charter of David, when he transferred the monks of Selkirk
to Kelso. Chart. Kelso, No. 1 .

Sect. IU.—Its Natural Objects.'] OrNORTH-BEITAIN. 0C9

place ill the names of YaiTow river in Lancashire, and Yore water in
Norfolk from which Yar-mouth derives its name, and Yare, which falls into
the Ax in Devonshire. The Yarrow and its banks have been often
celebrated in Scottish song (e), and sometimes the sympathizing poet hath
" mourn'd on Yarrow's banks the widow'd maid." The Tweed, after draining
Peebles-shii-e, intersects the northern extremity of Selkirkshire from west to
east, during a placid course, in a deep channel of nine miles, when it is joined
by the Ettrick, and receiving the Gala water, passes on from Selkirkshire,
after forming a boundary with Roxburghshire. The Gala, which carries oft^
the waters from a south-eastern district of Edinburorhshire, enters Selkirkshire
at Crosbie, and now forms the march between Selkirk and Roxburjjhshire
during a course of six miles, when it falls into the Tweed. The Gala, which
is much less rapid than the Ettrick and the Yarrow, as it descends through
a flatter country, runs the greater part of its course over a gravelly bed. Its
channel is very much confined by the high banks on either side of it, except in
the three last miles of its course, when it bursts out from its confined channel,
and overspreads, as often as it is swelled by rains, a considerable extent of
lower grounds. The Gala of Selkirkshire, and the Gwala of Pembrokeshire,
derive their singular names from the same British source. In the language of
the British setters here, the Givala signified a, full stream {/). The Strath of
the Gala was early called Waedale, from some bloody scenes on its contested
margin. Gala ivater has long been admired among the Scottish chants ; and it
has supplied an amorous ditty to one of the doric poets of Scotland, who admir-
mirably sings (g) :

" But Yari-ow braes, nor Ettrick shaivs,
Can matoli the lads of Gala water."

(e) See Eamsay's and Ritson's songs. Burns, in his Address to the Shade of Thomson, cries out :

" While maniac winter rages o'er
The hills wlience classic Yarrow flows ;
Reusing the turbid torrents' roar,
Or sweeping wild a waste of snows."
(/) The Gala is called the Galche in a chaiter of David I. to the monks of Melrose. No. 54. It is
spelled Galche and Galue in the charters of William the Lion. No. 146. It is called Gahie in two
charters of Alexander II. to the monks of Melrose. Chart. No. G2, 144. As the word Galche
is not significant in either the Saxon, the Scoto-Irish, or the British languages, as it is never
mentioned but once under this form, we may reasonably suppose that it was the mistake of the
scribe.

{(/) Burns, iv. 31.

970 An A C C 0 D N T [Ch. YllL—Selkirks/iiye.

The streams of the Ale and Borthwick have both their sources in the south-
eastern district of Selkirkshire ; yet they soon quit its confined Umits, and
passing into Teviotdale, mingle their congenial waters with the Teviot. The
only other stream which merits notice in this shire is the Caddon water, which
rises in the mountains on the northern extremity of this county, and hastens
its course to the Tweed, in a rapid flow of nine miles. Though the riverets of
Selkirkshire descend from their heights with a speedy course, yet they do not
form any picturesque falls. The only cascade in this shire is made by a rivulet
in Roberton parish, which flings itself over a cliS" twenty feet high and six feet
broad when it is swollen by rains (h).

Of minerals, none of the more useful have yet been found in this pastoral
shire. There are not any metals, coal, lime, nor freestone, in any part of this
county. It has, however, abundance of Avhinstone, and a good deal of
granite («'). The want of coal is supplied in some measure by many mosses,
from which peats are dug, that are the chief fuel of the inhabitants. The
higher ranks of people, however, and the farmers, burn coals, which are
brought from the Lothians, a distance of more than thirty miles from the
centre of this county. Though this shire does not enjoy the benefit of limestone,
it possesses excellent marie in various parts along its eastern extremity. The
several mosses in the parishes of Selkirk, Roberton, Ashkirk and Yarrow,
cover large beds of excellent shell uiarle, which is much used in fertilizing the
soil. Oakermoor loch, which is nearly a mile and a half in circumference and
very deep, contains a vast quantity of marie {k). As it wants minerals, this
shire is almost without mineral waters. The only appearance of medicinal
waters is at Haining-lln near Selkirk, where there is a spring of water which

(h) Stat. Acco., xi. 545.

(i) An immense bed of rock, of about a mile bioad, runs through the east part of Selkirkshire, in a
direction nearly from south to north. It appears in the channel of the Ettrick for a mile, from New-
house to Ettrick bridge, and below it for two hundred yards. North from this it appears again for a
mile in the channel of the Yarrow. It again appears in the channel of the Tweed for a mile above
and below the bridge, at Faimielee ; and north-north-east from this point it once more appears for a
mile in the channel of the Gala, at the peninsula of Torwoodlee.

(Ic) Stat. Acco., ii. 447 j si., 538; Agricult. Survey, 232. In 1649 it was said that "near
Kershop there is a little strand, which after rain frequently casteth out many pieces of lead,
that are found by the country people among the sand." MS. Account of Messrs. Elliot and
Scot.

Soct. IV.— Its A ntiqiiitks.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 971

is impregnated with steel, and which, though weak, is found to be useful to
scorbutic and scrofulus habits (1).

§ IV. 0/ its Antiquities.'] The whole district which now forms Selkirkshire,
was of old included in the country of the British Gadeni, which compre-
hended the centre of the region, from the coaly Tyiie on the south, to the
meandring Forth on the northward. Besides other monuments, they left their
descriptive language in the names of the rivers Ettrick and Yarrow, Gala
and Tweed, of the Tama, Caddon, and Douglas. The British Llyn, for a pool,
is preserved both in the topography and in the common language, in lin, and
linns, in the Ettrick. Heugh, which is applied to a high bank or cliff, and
which is seen in the maps, is merely the British Uch, with the Saxon aspirate,
as we may see it in the Heugh of the Cornish. The British Peii, a head or
summit, is also preserved in the name of Etti-ick-pe/i or Pen-Shuter, a high
conical hill in the southern extremity of this shire, and there is Pen-man-score,
which is now corrupted into Permanscore, and is applied to a neck or hollow
on the toji of a high ridge, a little eastward of Minchmoor. The British Pil,
signifying a fortress with a surrounding trench, is still retained in the name of
Peel in Yarrow parish.

As this shire was chiefly occupied by the Saxon people, who came in upon
the Romanized Britons after the Roman abdication, the names of places are
almost all from the Anglo-Saxon in its most appropriate form (m). Ford is
used by the Anglo-Saxons, both in North and South Britain, for the passage
of a river, yet seems to have been adopted by them, with other significant
terms, from the British Fordd, which also signifies, in that language, a passage
or way (n).

The Scottish people appear to have formed some settlements in this shire
soon after the year 1020, as we may infer from the appellation of places,
w^hich still retain the names that were then applied to them ; as Glen-gaher,
Glen-kenning, Glen-kerry, Glen-dairg, Dal-gleish, Annet, Tinnis, *Scar-hills,

(/) Stat. Acoo., ii. 447. Yet in 1649, Elliot and Scot say that "a little above Philiphaugh there
is a well, which, in regard of its smell, taste, purgative qualities, and other effects, such as colouring
money laid into it, diffeveth little or nothing from the well of Moffat, that is so much frequented."
MS. Acco. Advocates' Library.

{m) The most frequent compounds in the names of places are, Cleiif/h in thirty-two names, Hope
in thirty-eight, Lee in fifteen, Shiel in twelve, Shmv in ten, Law, Kirk, Ilawjh, Burn, Rig, and a few
from Dod.

(») Davis and Owen.

072 AnACCOUNT [Oh. yilL—Selkirkshire.

Loch of the Lows, Duchoir, now DeucJiar. The names, indeed, of Dun-\a\v
and ^?<-reiver burn exhibit pleonastic compounds of the Gaelic and the
Scoto-Saxon languages. The reader, if he do not constantly recollect the
several successions of people in this shire who, in different ages, settled here,
the Britons first, the Anglo-Saxons next, the Gaelic-Scots after them, and lastly,
the Anglo-Norman and English people, must necessarily be confounded, when
he looks upon the country map, to see such a mixture of names from difierent
tongues. The same observation is equally to be made in respect to other
shires ; and in this view of the subject the topography of the country becomes
the truest history of the people during the darkest ages (o).

As this shire was in early times completely covered with a vast forest, it
should seem never to have been much cultivated by the first people, who
existed rather in the state of hunters than of shepherds. The Romanized
Britons may have made some advances towards the second step of society.
The Saxon people seem to have taken firm possession without clearing away
the woods, which still in a great measure remained at the end of seven change-
ful centuries. There are but few British remains in this shire which would
show the inhabitancy and mark the usages of the British people. There are here
no druid temples, no stone monuments, no ancient sepulchres, nor do any hill-
forts appear throughout the greatest part of Ettrick forest. It is in the eastern
division of the shire, which now forms the cultivated part of it, where can be
traced any British or Roman antiquities. In this tract there are the remains
of some British strengths which were erected upon heights, and were formed
generally between the circular and the oval. In the midst of several of those
British strengths, in the parish of Roberton, there is a Roman camp which is
of a square figure, and is flanked by a rivulet, the banks whereof are steep, is
defended in front by Borthwick water, and having on the remaining sides arti-
ficial ramparts. The remains of this post bear at present the name of Africa,
the corruption of some ancient name which cannot now be traced (p). But

(o) It may be of use to add here a specimen of the Scoto-Saxon language, as it was written here, in
1423, by Archibald, the fourth Eail of Douglas, who fell at the battle of Vernuil : "Be it knawyn till
" all men thrwch yir present letterys us Archebalde off Douglas, Erie of Wygtoun, and off Longuevill,
" til haf set, and till ferme lattyn till our Iwuit Schir Wilzeam Myddilmast, twa forestar stedis wytin
" Schut}'nle ward, by and betuix ye mastirstede and ye tourourstede off the ward off ye Yharrow," &c.
Record Great Seal, book ii. No. 01. This lease is dated at ye Neuerk; in Newark castle.

(;)) About two miles from this Boman post, and within view of it, there is still to be seen a British
fortlet, of a semicircular form. Stat. Acco., xi. 545.

Sect. lY.—Its A ntiq iiities.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 973

no Roman road has yet been discovered here which would lead us to any useful
notice.

Now the most remarkable remain of the Britons in this shire is the Catrail
or battle-fence, consisting of a lai'ge fosse, with a rampart on either side.
From Mossalee, on the north-east of this shire, the Catrail may be traced
through the middle of the country, in a winding direction, till it passes from
Selkirk into Roxburghshire by crossing Borthwick water near Hosket. The
course of the Catrail through Selkirkshire, from Mossalee to the passage of
Borthwick water, extends to eight-and-twenty miles. This vast war-fence can
only be referred for its construction to the Romanized Britons who, after
the abdication of the Roman government, had this country to defend against
the intrusion of the Saxons on the east during the fifth century, the darkest
period of our history. Its British name, its connection with British hill-forts,
the peculiarity of its course, and the nature of its formation, all evince that its
construction can refer to no other people, and its epoch to no other period of
our annals. Such are the antiquities of Selkirkshire ! The various languages
of the earliest people, which are the best proofs of their ditterent lineages, the
hill-forts and war-fence of the Britons show their warlike policy. The
Roman camp evinces the residence of Roman troops in this shire, as the dis-
covery of Roman coins also show that they traversed its narrow bounds m
thtiir marches, though a Roman road has not here been yet traced. Monu-
ments of stone, Selkirkshire appears to have none. William's Croce, indeed,
once stood on a height near Broadmeadow, within a mile of Philiphaugh (</).
On the top of Kershope hill, there stood a monumental stone called Taits-Cross,
though the cause of its erection cannot now be traced to its origin (r). Craik-

{([) It is stated in a MS. Account of this shire, by William Elliot of Stobs and Walter Scot of
Arkilton, dated the 21sfc December 1649, in the Advocates' Library. They say this croce was raised
where one of the Earls of Douglas was killed. This tradition points to the place where William
Douglas, the knight of Liddesdale, was slain by William Earl of Douglas. Godscroft says, the knight
was hunting in Galse wood when he was killed, was carried the first night to Lindean kirk, a mile from
Selkirk, and was buried in Melrose abbey. Hist. 77.

(r) The fact is stated in a MS. Account of Selkirkshire by Mr. John Hodge, dated 1722, in the
Advocates' Library. He adds a circumstance which has now become antiquated : " That there was
then to be seen, at Taits-Cross, houghted and milked, upwards of twelve thousand ewes, in the month
of June, about eight o'clock at night, at one view." Boiifjlited is a verb, formed from the
substantive bought or hught, which meant, in the speech of the shepherds, a fold for ewes while tbey
were milked. There is an old song :

" Will ye go to the ewe-buchls, Marion ?
And wear in the sheep wi' me.'
4 6 F

974 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. Tni.—SelkM-shire.

moor in Roberton parish, is a high mountain, four miles in length, about the
middle whereof stood a stone called CraiJc-Cross, which divides the sliire of
Selkirk from Eskdale. From this Cross, in a clear day, may be descried the
walls of Berwick, at the distance of eight-and-thirty miles to the eastward.
The modern antiquities of Selkirkshire consist chiefly of ruined castles and
moss-o-rown towers, ei-ected some of them in the twelfth century, but the
greater number of them in subsequent ages of foreign hostilities or domestic
feuds. Whatever may have been their age or their picturesque ruins, those
towers escaped the attention of Grose, and eluded the notice of Cardonnel. We
may still trace the ruins of Oldwarh castle, on the south-east bank of the YaiTow,
which was probably built here by some of the kings in early times, as a com-
modious hunting-seat, and relinquished by them to the principal warden of
their extensive forests (s). Higher up, on the same side of the Yarrow, may
be seen the ruins of Newark castle, which was probably built by William, the
first Earl of Douglas, after he succeeded to the forest (t). The ruins of towers
throughout Selkirkshire ai'e very numerous, and though of less size, are of
similar construction, which was intended moi'e for defences in war than the
comforts of peace (m). These towers only refer us to the coarse and savage
manners of the times that are passed. They are daily disappearing from anti-
quarian eyes :

■' Nor, after length of years, a stone betray
The place, where once the very ruins lay."

§ V. Of its Establishment as a Shire.'\ The origin of a sheriffwick in this
district is extremely obscui-e. At the epoch of the Scoto-Saxon period, the
Scottish kings had a castle, with large demesnes at Selkirk, the seat of most
extensive forests. Whoever was the constable of the king's castle at Selkirk-
regis, performed, in those early times, all the functions of a sheriff within its

The word bucht or bii(/ht, if traced back through the Saxon and British, will be found to have a
common original.

(s) See its site in Ainslie's map of this shire.

(<) lb. Archibald, the fourth Earl of Douglas, dated a lease of some lands in the forest to his
chaplain Schir William Meddelmast, " at ye Neic-werlc" the 2d of March 1423-4. Anne, the first
Duchess of Monmouth and of Buccleuch, was bom in this castle of Newark, which is now the residence
of crows and owls.

(il) There were Kirkhope tower on the Ettrick ; Deuchar tower, on Yarrow ; Dyhope tower, near St.
Mary s loch : Blaokhouse tower, on Douglas burn ; Thirlstane tower ; Gamescleugh tower ; Tushielaw
tower, on the Ettrick, the seat of the king of the thieves ; Blindlee tower, in Galashiels parish ; Peel,
in Yarrow parish.

Sect, v.— Its Establishment us a S/iire.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 975

jurisdiction. There was probably a sheriffdom here, with the usual authorities,
at the sad demise of Alexander III. The first sherift* however, of Selkirkshire,
who has yet been found in any record, is Alexander Synton, who was cer-
tainly sheriff here in 1292 (x). Edward I., in 1304, granted to Aymer de
Valence, the Earl of Gloucester and his heirs, the keeping of the forest, the
castle and the town of Selkirk {y). When Edward settled the government of
Scotland in 1305, Selkirkshire was assigned " celui qui est de fe," to him,
who was sheriif in fee and heritage ; and in fact, we have just seen that the
Earl of Pembroke was then hereditary sheriff of this shire. We are now arrived
at the epoch of the competition between the kings of Scotland and of England.
Robert I. granted to his favourite warrior, Sir James Douglas, the forests of
Selkirk and Traquair, with the juridical powers of a free barony (s). This
grant, after the death of Hugh, the brother of Sir James, was confined to Sir
William, the son of Archibald, and the first Earl of Douglas («), who domi-
neered within Selkirkshire, till his death in 1384. Yet, during that long
period, the English sovereigns regarded Selkirk as being under the regimen of
a sheriffdom (6). Whatever grants they made of this country, or whatever
government they established, the English were not allowed to retain quiet
possession of a country which belonged to a Douglas under a Scottish title.
In 1346, Sir William Douglas, the first earl, expelled them from Douglasdale,

(.(■) EdwM'd I., on the lOtli of December 1292, issued a mandate to Alexander S^'ntou, '• vicecomes
de Selkirk,'' to pay " to M., the bishop of Sodor," £10 from the arrears of his accounts, out of the
issues of his bailliewic. Kotuli Scotiaj, 12. Edward, on the 7th of January 1292-3, issued another
precept to Alexander Sj'nton, " nuper vicecomes de Selkirk," to pay £24 18s 4Jd. out of the arrears
due of his accounts to Nicolas de Colle, •' mercatorem nostram Lucanen. de Societate Rioorum de
Luoa." lb. 17. Synton is a local name. This sheriff was probably the lord of tlie manor of
Synton, in the eastern quarter of Selkirkshire. Sinton is still the name of an estate there, and of a
mansion, a hamlet, and a mill.

()/) Abbrev. Eot Origin. 151 ; Diigd. Bar. i. 776-8. Shortly after such appointment, he built a
peel at Selkirk, and put a garrison in it ; and, attending Queen Isobell into France, in 1323, on the
23d of June the same year, he was murdered, as he had had a hand in the murder of the Duke of
Lancaster. lb. 777-8.

{z) Roberts. Index 10.

(a) lb. 55. He had no right over the shire-town as we have seen. As he obtained his grant in
1342, the period of his domination was two-and-forty yeai's.

(i) In 1334, Edward Baliol, when he gave so many countries to Edward III., transferred to him the
sheriji'wic of Selkirk. Rym. iv. 615 — 617. Robert de Manners was, on the IGth of June 1334,
appointed sheriff of Selkirk, and keeper of the forest. Id., and, in 1335, Edward III. granted to
William de Moutacute, the fee-firm of the fore-its of Selkirk and Ettiick, with the town and sheriffdom
of Selkirk, rendering yearly thirty pounds. lb. 671 ; Ayloff, 161.

976 An ACCOUNT ICh. XUl.—SelHrlskire.

and took possession of Ettrick forest (c). After the attainder of Earl Douglas
in 1455, the forest of Selkirk, with whatever jurisdiction, was annexed by
parliament to the crown. In 1503, John Murray of Falahill was sherift' of
Selkirkshire ((/). James IV., on the 30th of November 1509, granted to John
Murray and to his heirs, the sherificlom of Selkirkshire (e). Yet they seem
not to have enjoyed it without interruption, owing to a lapse in the loyalty of tliis
family, who owed their office to the king's bounty. A revolution restored them
to their rights, and rewarded them for their wrongs {f). John Murray of
Philiphaugh, the descendant of Murray of Falahill, received, in 1748, four
thousand pounds in compensation for this heritable sheriffshijD. Among a
million of pretensions, on that occasion, the Duke of Douglas claimed the
regality of Selkirk. We may easily suppose, as the Duke asked verj- much,
and obtained very little, that he claimed for the whole forfeited jurisdictions of
his family ig). AVhen that admirable reform was made, by purchasing those
injurious jurisdictions, Charles Campbell of Monzie, advocate, was appointed
sheriff of Selkirkshire for the king (h).

§ VI. Of its Civil History.^ Under this head of narration, the shire-toivn is
the first object. In very early times, the forest preceded the castle of Selkirk,
as the castle gave rise to the village, while the church was a necessary adjunct,
both of the castle and the town. Before the year 1 1 24, there existed upon
this agreeable site, a castle, an old town, and an ancient church (i). The

{d) Balfour's Piacticks, 16. That sheriff had the honour of delivering seisin of the fvrest to Lady
Margai'et of England, as a part of her dower when she married James IV., as we know from Rymer.

(e) Douglas Baron. 105; Sir James Dalrymple's Col. 350. Lady Margaret Hepburn, the daughter
of Adam, the second Earl of Bothwell, who fell on Flodden-field, married John Munay of Falahill,
the hereditary sheriff of Selkirkshire. Dougl. Peer. 85.

(/) The Earl of Roxburgh was sheriff of Selkirkshire during the king's pleasure. Warrant Book.
John Riddel of Haining was also sheriff during pleasure. Id. Sir James MuiTay, who was born in
1655, " was concerned in a design of making an insurrection in Scotland at the time of Shaftesbury's
plot, and was one of the evidences against Baillie of Jerviswood. He was made a Lord of Session at
the Revolution ; and, sometime after, Lord Register, by the title of Philiphaugh." Carstaii-'s State
Papers, 99 ; and see Lockhart's Memoirs throughout.

(g) The Duke of Douglas claimed for the regality of Selkirk £2,000 ; and for his whole jurisdic-
tions £34,000 ; bnt he was compensated with £5.104 5s. Id. List of Claims.

(h) Scots Mag. 1748, 155. He died on the 26th of March 1751.

(t) In the foundation charter of Earl David he granted to the monks of Selkirk the lands " de
Selechyrche, inter viam qua vadit de castello ad abbatiam et garuam, viz., versus veterem villam."
Chart. Kelso, No. 4 : Sir J. Dalrymple's Col. App. iv. ; Chron. Melrose.

Sect. Yl.— Its Civil Rifton/.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 977

castle, as it was erected for the amusements of peace rather than for the
struggles of war, was probably built of slight materials. It was not, perhaps,
much inhabited by David I., after his accession in 1124, as he gave the pre-
ference to Eoxburgh castle, which from its site was more agreeable and more
safe (k). The castle of Selkirk was frequently inhabited by William the
Lion (I). His son and his grandson, the second and third Alexander, may
have sometime i-esided in the same castle ; but this ancient huntingc-seat dis-
appeared from antiquarian eyes before the accession of Robert I. ; and we
have already seen that Aymer de Valence built a peel at Selkirk town, which
seems to intimate that there remained no royal house at this ancient place.
At no great distance, indeed, upon the Yarrow, there was in very early times
an ancient castle which was called Oldwark, which was probably built by the
king while there were no proprietors here who could have built with lime and
stone, and which was probably inhabited by tlie warden of the forest, as we

(k) The castle was mentioned, as we have seen, in the foundation charter of Selkirk abbey. When
David I. granted to Ernald, the abbot of Kelso, the church of Selkirk-regis, he provided that the
abbot and his successors should be chaplains to him, and his sons, and their heirs, in the said castle.
Chart. Kelso, No. 370.

(/) At the end of the twelfth century, a controversy between the monks of Melrose and Patrick, Earl
of March, about their several rights in the forest between the Gala and the Leader, was settled by an
agreement between the parties, in the king's court, and in his presence, at Selkirk. And William
granted a charter, confirming the agreement, which he says was made " apud Selechirche, in presencia
mea, in plena curia mea.'' Chart. Melrose, 140. A controversy between the monks of Kelso and
those of Melrose about their lands was remitted by Pope Celistine, to be decided by King William.
At Melrose, in 1202, the king heard the pretensions of the two parties, and thereupon directed an
inquisition to be made, " per probos et antiquos homines patriae.'' The good and the experienced men
of the country seem to have found in favour of the monks of Kelso ; for the parties coming again
before the king at Selechirche, in 1204, he gave judgment in favour of the monks of Kelso, and,
according to the practice in that age, he confirmed the judgment by a charter, wherein the whole
proceeding is recited. Chart. Melrose, No. 18. King William must have resided on such occasions in
his castle at Selkirk throughout his whole reign. Of King William's many charters, three to the
bishops of Glasgow were dated at Selechirche. Chart. Glasgow. 33, 209, 217. The foundation charter
of Arbroath, and another grant to the monks thereof, were dated at Selechirche. Dug. Monast., ii.
1053 ; Chart. Arbroath, 68. A charter to the monks of Lindores, two to the monks of Paisley, two to
the monks of Kelso, and one to the monks of Melrose, were all dated at Selechirche. Chart. Lind.,
No. 6 ; Chart. Paisl., No. 10-36 ; Chart. Kelso, No. 103-4 ; and Chart. Melrose, No. 4. We herein see
how often William the Lion dwelt in his castle at Selechirche, and how often he hunted in his forests
of Selkirk. His son and grandson probably followed his example. On the 7th of June 1233,
Alexander II. dated a charter at SeJcchirvhe. Chart. Kelso, No. 392. The castle no doubt continued
to be the occasional residence of the Scottish kings till the sad demise of Alexander III.

978 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. WUL—SelkirkMre.

have seen. A village arose under the more ancient castle even beyond the
period of record. A new hamlet had already arisen near the old, as we have
perceived, before the year 1124 (?)i); and the two villages, after the founda-
tion of the abbey, came to be distinguished by the appro[.'iiate names of
Selkirk- ref/is and Helkirk-abbatis. When the monks were removed in 1128
the latter distinction soon evanished. Selkirk, which had this ancient founda-
tion, long continued a town in the king's demesne, but did not become a royal
burgh till much more recent times. We might infer this circumstance, indeed,
from the silence of Ragman Roll (u). While the rulers of other towns were
obliged to swear fealty to Edward I., we do not perceive any corporate body from
Selku'k upon their knees before their superior lord. During the long conflicts
for the succession to the crown, the town of Selkirk was often granted to the
successive partizans of the rival kings, as we have already learned from their
charters (o). We may thus perceive that Selkirk continued to be a huiyh under
David II., when the king's firms were rented for a specific sum to some known
cliaracter, and when of course, in notion of law, Selkirk was merely a town in the
royal demesne (p). In this inferior state Selkirk continued till the recent reign
of James V. From this charter it became a royal burgh, on an occasion that
reflects high honour on the loyalty and spirit of this ancient town {q). When
James IV. was marching forward to his fate at Floddon-field, a hundred
townsmen joined him under the town clerk. They fought stoutly; they almost
all fell in the field rather than flee. Few of them returned with William

(«() Chart. Kelso, No. 1. («) Prynne, iii.

(o) Eobert I. granted to Henry Gelchedal the mill of Selkirk for the yearly payment of two marks of
money. Robertson's Index. David II. granted to Eobert Dalyell the town and lands of Selkirk. lb.
34. David II. granted the lands within the town, and the mill of Selkii'k, to Eobert Carnoek. lb. 60.
In 1365, David II. renewed his grant to Eobert Dalyell, of the king's lauds about the town, with an
exception of '-the kings firms of the burgh of Selkirk.'' lb. 79. In 1398, Eobert III. confirmed to
George, Earl of Angus, who had married the king's daughter, Mary, " the haill town of Selkirk. "
Eoberts. Index, 139.

i^p) See JIadox's Hist, of the Exchequer. In those intimations, we may trace the origin of the cor-
porate bodies of Scotland. The villages were first the king's town in his demesne. When they obtained
from the king's grant a right to choose their own rulers, and to rent their own firms, they became
royal burrows.

{(j) The first charter is dated the 4th March 1535 ; this was enlarged in 1538, and again in 1540,
when the bailies and community were empowered to elect a provost every year. The corporation now
consists of thirty-three members : two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, two old bailies, an old
dean of Guild, and an old treasurer ; five deacons of trades, five colleagues, ten merchant councillors,
and five trades councillors. The revenue of the corporation, as returned to Parliament, is £284
a-year.

Sect. Yl.—lts Civil History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 979

Bryden, their gallant chief, who brought with him, as proofs of their valour
rather than of victory, an English standard and a hostile pole-axe, which are
usually carried in the processions of the corporation as the ensigna of the town
(r). The English soon after burnt the town. The gratitude or the appi'oba-
tion of James V., granted them timber from his forests to rebuild it, and a
thousand acres of land to reanimate the burgesses (s). In 1556, of the forty-
two burghs, Selkirk and Peebles paid the same taxes. In the monthly assess-
ment of 1695, Selkirk paid £72, and Peebles only £66 {t). Selkirk as a royal
burgh, with Peebles, Linlithgow, and Lanark, choose one representative to the
united parliament. Selkirk is the metropolis of the shire, being the seat of the
sherift"s and commissaiy's courts, with the justices' sessions ; and having a
weekly market and many yearly fairs (it).

Yet in this shire we see nothing of greatness in ancient times, either of things
or persons, but the forest, the king, and the abbot of Kelso. The forest of
Ettrick, in those ages, spread over the whole country which is drained by the
Ettrick and Yarrow^ as far northward as the Tweed. The kindred district,
which is w^atered by the Cadon, and lies nor-thward of the Tweed, also formed a
considerable part of this extensive forest, which was anciently called either
Ettrick or Selkirk ; and sometimes it was named indiscriminately Ettrick and
Selkirk for-est (x). Those " woodland grounds " appear to have been early

(?•) By a cliarter of James V., whicli now lies forgotten among the archives of the corporation.
William Bryden, the town clerk, and his successors in office, were created knights, on a recital of the
bravery of Bryden and the valour of the townsmen.

(«) The king empowered, on that occasion, the body politic of the town to incorporate the trades,
particularly the soutars or cordwainers, who are celebrated in song, with their deacon, " who, at the
admission of every new sovtar, is obliged by charter, to provide him with a maid if he desire it."
Some burgesses have pleaded their privilege, and were by the deacon provided to their satisfaction.
Hodge's MS. Account, 1722. We may suppose, however, that it is a wife which the Deacon is bound
to provide for the burgess on demand.

(t) Gibson's Hist. Glasgow, 78-103-121. In June 1633, the parliament passed an act in favour of
the burgh of Selkirk. Unprinted Act of that date. In June 1640, there passed another act in favour
of Selkirk, confirming a fair to be held there yearly on the 4th of July. Unprinted Act of
that date.

(») It hath a famous chnrcli. saith Hodges, and school, with a strong prison, fine councilhouse and
market-cross, standing in the middle of the town, having three good entries into the town by the
west, east, and south parts. It is situated not far from the water of Ettrick on the north. It
hath three verj' cood mills ; to wit, corn and waulk mills, vrith one boat, that goes below the
mill. It hath a large common on the south and north parts, fit for corn and store. MS.
Accc, 1722.

(.r) In several charters, Ettrick and Selkirk are mentioned as separate forests ; and the forest of

980 An ACCOUNT [Ch. YlU.—SelkMshire.

settled by the Northuralirian Saxons, as we may infer from the antiquity
of the Saxon names of places, among which can be traced but veiy few
English appellations. The most numerous woods in those vast forests were
of oaks, mixed with birch and hazel. And, indeed, great numbers of oak
trees are even now dug up in the mosses, which owed their formation
chiefly to the stagiiation of waters upon the woodlands, that were resigned
to neglect and accident. Those woodlands were of old inhabited by the
Eiirus, whose remains are still foimd in the mosses and the marl-pits {y).
Beasts of chace and birds of prey formerly abounded here ; as we may learn
from the names of the places which they frequented (z). From the old song
of the Outlaw Miirray, we may indeed learn that,

" Ettrick forest is a fair forest.
In it grows many a semelie trie ;
The hart, the hynd, the doe, the roe,
And of a' beastes great plentie."

The recital of the minstrel is, in this instance, justified by record.

From the age of Earl David, during several centuries, many grants were
made of various easements, within the ample scope of those fair foreMs. Earl
David, when he founded the abbey of Selkirk, before the year 1124, when he
happily ascended the throne, gave to the monks " terram de SelechyrcJic," the

Ettrick appears to have comprehended the country on the rivers Ettrick and Yarrow ; while Selkirk
forest comprehended the country on the Lower Ettrick, and the district on both sides of the Tweed.
Adjoining to this large forest on the north-west, there was a smaller forest that spread over the
country which is drained by the Quair on the south of the Tweed, and it was denominated in
charters the forest of Traquair, and now forms a part of Peebles-shire. There also adjoined the
forest of Selkirk, on the north-east the forest on the Gala ; and upon the east side thei-e was a smaller
forest on the Upper Alne. The fact is, that in the retours made to parliament in 1613, of the rental
of each estate in the whole country, the sheriffdom of Selkirk and the forest of Ettrick were returned
separately, and seem to have been severally accounted for in the Exchequer ; the first, by the sheriff,
and the second by the forester ; the amount of the rental, according to the old extent of the
sheriffdom, was £122 6s. 8d., " besyds the kirk-landis, and landis in Eosburghshire,'' and the Tax
Boll of the lordship of Ettrick forest, " as it was retourit in an judicial court,'' amounted to £670
15s. 6d., whereof the Earl of Buccleuch held the value of £186 6s. 8d. MS. Copy from the
Eecord.

(y) Stat. Acco., ii. 448 : Transact. Antiq. Soc. Scot., i. 57.

(c) Even before the year 1649, this forest was almost altogether denuded of its trees. Yet even
then, " some places remained well furnished with pleasant and profitable woods, especially for build-
ing. The tops of the mountains had [in 1649] good store of moor-fowls, and in some places the
black cock and grey hen, which is a large and delicate kind of fowl." Elliot and Scot's MS. Account
of this shire, 1 649, in the Advocates Library.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil Historij.] OfNOETH-BBITAIN. 981

land of Selechyrche as described, with the tenth of the skins of the harts and
hinds which his hounds [valtrarii] should take in the forest. His munificence
was approved by the charters of his grandsons, Malcolm and William. "When
David I. refounded the monastery of Melrose, he conferred on the monks in his
forests of Selkirk and Traquair, pasture for their beasts, and pannage and wood,
and other materials, as freely as he himself enjoyed those special advantages (6).
Alexander II. gave the monks of Melrose the whole of his waste, that lay on
the Upper Ettrick, between the forests and the mountains which divided it
from Eskdale and Annandale (c). In 1235, Alexander II. empowered those
monks to hold their lands upon the Upper Ettrick in a free forest (d). The
monks of Kelso had also their liberties within the forest of Selkirk ; and they
had incidentally their burdens. The abbot of Kelso was bound to repair the
bridge of Ettrick (c). The bridge of Ettrick was the appropriate mote, where
the abbot of Kelso, in those times, held his baronial courts (f). From those
notices, it is apparent that the only great land-holders during the Scoto-Saxon
period, were the abbots of Kelso and Melrose. There does not appear to have
been any person from Selkirkshire in the numerous parliament of Brigham,
1290, if we except those abbots who resided without the shire. And when
every one was required to swear fealty to Edward I. in 1296, we see only three
persons who submitted to his will : Richard, the vicar of Selkirk town, and
John de Craik, and Cristine de Greenhead, " del counte de Selkirk "(g). From
those intimations we may perceive that there was not any person of con-
sequence in Selkirkshire during those distressful times. Simon Fraser, the
elder, of Peebles-shire, was the king's keeper of the forest of Selkirkshire at the
eventful demise of Alexander HI.

In 1290, Edward I. began to act as sovereign of Selkirkshire. He gave
away the beasts and timber of the forest (h). He appointed officers for the

(b) Diplom. Scotise, pi. iv. ; Chart. Melrose, No. 54. (c) Chart. Melrose, No. 64.

(d) Chart, iu Bibl. Harl. ; Eobertson's MS. Extracts. In 123.5, Alexander II. allowed the monks of
Melrose to settle in the forest of Ettrick ; and granted to the abbot of Melrose the right of free forest,
in the four granges circumjacent. Chart. Melrose, 203 ; Cron. Melrose, 203.

(«) Alexander II. granted, in 1233, to the abbot of Kelso, the lands of Richard, the son of Edwine,
lying on both side of the river, for the proper repair of the bridge of Ettrick. Chart. Kelso, No. 217.

(/) Chart. Kelso, 217. In the statement of the property of the monks of Kelso, which they drew
up under Robert I., they say they had at Selkirk-regis " terram, que vocatur terra jwntis, et contenit
16 acres." lb. 10.

{(/) Prynne. iii. 660-62.

(h) Edward I., on the 18th August 1291, issued a precept to Simon Fraser the keeper of the forest
4 6 G

98^ AnACCOUNT [Ch. \lll.— Selkirkshire.

guard and government of the country (i) ; and lie was followed in his principles
and precepts by Edward II. and Edwaid III., who, by aiming at too much,
were finally disappointed in all.

But a great change was at hand. The valour and fortune of Robert I. en-
abled him, as we have seen, to reward the services of Sir James Douglas, by
granting him as a free barony, the foi-ests of Selkirk, Ettrick, and Traquair (k).
In 1342, this grant was repeated and enlarged by David II., to Sir William
Douglas, the nephew of the good Sir James (/). Such, then, were the occasions
and the grants which gave the Douglases an entrance and rights within the
forests of Selkirkshire, and which they lost in 1455, by their ambitious folly and
parliamentary attainder.

In the meantime, the insatiable ambition of Edward III. raised up a pretender
to the Scottish crown, and thereby involved the two nations in still more
inveterate wars. In June 1334, that pretender, Edward Balliol, transferred to
the English king all the rights which he could convey in the several forests

of Selkirk, to deliver to William Fraser, the bishop of St. Andrews, thirty harts ; to Eobert, bishop of
Glasgow, twenty harts, and sixty oaks ; to Adam, the bishop of Caithness, and chancellor of Scotland,
ten harts ; to William de Sinclair, six harts ; to Brian, the preceptor of the knights of the Temple in
Scotland, two harts and four oaks ; to William de Soulis, ten harts : to 'John de Soulis, six harts ; to
William de Hay, four harts ; to the keeper himself, tea harts ; and to Thomas de Clenhult, four harts.
Rot. Scotise, 3. He issued another precept to the same forester to deliver six harts to the abbot of
Jedworth, and four harts to Adam de Botendon, the vice-chancellor of Scotland. lb. 9. In Maj-
12116, he gave to Eeginald de Crawford six harts from the same forest. lb. 35. And he granted to
the monks of Melrose forty oaks from the same woodlands. Bolls of Pari. ii. 469.

(i) In January 1291-2, Edward I. confided the keeping of the forest of Selchirche and Traquair to
William, the son of .John Cumyn, as Simon Fraser, who died in Autumn 1291, lately held the same.
Ayloff's Calend. 107 ; Rot. Scotiae, 7. Edward, on the 6th of May 1292, appointed Thomas de Burn-
ham the keeper of Selkirk forest, with the demesne lands thereto belonging. lb. 23 ; Rym. ii. 717.
In 1300, Simon Fraser was warden of Selkirk forest. lb. ii. 870. He was superseded soon after by
the appointment of Aymer de Valence, as we have seen. Edward II., on the 13th of December 1309,
gave the keeping of the castles of Selkirk and Bothwell to the same Aymer de Valence. Rot. Scotise, 80.

(i) Roberts. Index, 10. The same king, meantime, granted to the monks of Coldingham five bucks
yearly out of the forest of Selkirk, for the celebration of the festival of St. Cuthbert's translation.
The forefathers of the forests owed much to the worthy Cuthbert for his instruction. And David II.
repeated the liberal grant of his generous father.

(I) Roberts. Index, 55. David II. granted to the monks of Kelso authority to cut timber in the
forest of Selkirk for repairing the damage to their edifices of the long-continued wars. lb. 63.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 983

within Selkirkshire {in). The Enghsh king made haste to enforce his spurious
title by his pen and his sword. He granted his rights, in various propor-
tions, in different forms ; and after holding the Christmas festival at Rox-
burgh, in 1334, he marched into the forest of Ettrick, without meeting with
those hardy men who had contemned his authority, and who now thought it
prudent to withdraw, " under the hospitable covert of the wild wilderness,
thick interwoven (n)." The Douglases, at length, raised their spears. In
1338, the knight of Liddisdale, with his usual enterprise, compelled the English
to abandon Teviotdale, and, of course, to retire from the forest (o). Young Sir
William Douglas, of Douglas, had been appointed by David II., in May 1342,
the leader of the men of Selkirk and of Roxburgh (p). After the fatal conflict
at Nevils-cross in 1346, the English again retook the castle of Roxburgh,
and again seized the forests of Selkirkshire. But, the men of Selkirk gather-
ing around their chief, drove the intruders from Douglasdale, and regained
their native forests (q). After various alternations of defeat and victory, the
surest proofs of the enterprise and bravery of the contending parties, the
chief of Selkirkshire retained the object of contest within his grasp. It was
during those conflicts, probably, that the whole shire was divided into ivards (r).
The usual festivities of the forest were soon saddened by domestic woe. The
chief of the Douglases ordered William, the knight of Liddisdale, to be slain, in
1353, as he was enjoying the sports of the chase in Galswood (s). William's

(m) BiYm. iv. 615. Edward immediately appointed Robert de Manners the keeper of the forests of
Selkirk and Ettrick. lb., 617. In 1334, Edward issued a writ, to inquire if the Countess of Mar
was entitled to be keeper of those forests. lb., G22. This Countess of Mar was probably the widow
of Donald Earl of Mar, who fell at the battle of Duplin in 1332, whose weakness entailed so many
misfortunes on his country. She was Isobel, the daughter of Sir Alexander Stewart of Bonkill.
Douglas Peer., 160. She seems to have had no right to what she claimed ; for in October 1335,
Edward III. granted to William de Montacute the forest of Ettrick and sheriffdom of Selkirk, to him
and his heirs. lb., 671.

(/i) Border Hist., 314. (c) Lord Hailes's An., ii. 202.

(/)) Crawford's Peer., 95 ; Roberts. Index, 55. (q) Lord Hailes's An., ii. 221.

()■) Those wards are very obscurely mentioned, as we have seen, in a lease, dated in 1423, by
Archibald Douglas, Earl of Wygtown, to his chaplain, Schyr William Midelmast. Record Great Seal,
book ii., No. 61.

(s) The Scala Cronica tells this dismal story in this manner : " William Douglas, that had greatly
" holped the quarrel of King David, was restored to his castell of the Hermitage, upon conditions, that
" he never after should bear wepen agayn King Edwarde, and always be ready to take his part. This
" Duglas was sone after slayn of the Lord Willyam Duglas, yn the forest of Selkirk.'' But see the Act
of Liberation, dated the 17th of July, 1352, in Rym. v. 738 ; and see before the note in this volume,
800. By comparing all those facts together, we may asceitaiu clearly the cause of that odious deed.

984 AnACCOUNT [Ch. YIU.— Selkirkshire.

cross marks the spot where feudal pohcy perpetrated his odious purpose. The
body of the knight, who had been often overpowered but never conquered,
was carried to Lindean kirk for a night, and thence was conveyed to Melrose
abbey for his lasting repose. That one Douglas should slay another Douglas is
such an act that Godscroft, the apologist for all the deeds of all the Douglases,
knows not how to extenuate or explain, without the aid of amatory fiction,
while the odious passions of envy, interest, aiid ambition, were the true motives
in the flinty heart of the principal assassin, who was too powerful for punish-
ment at such a moment, when England desired tranquillity, and Scotland was
ruled by a regency. David II., on the 15th of May 1365, conferred the lands
of Selkii'k with the pertinents, but not the annual rents or the royal firms of
the burgh of Selkyrk, on Robert Dalyell and his heirs-male, till he should be
better provided for ; yielding, for the same, yearly, one arch-tenant and three
suits to the king's courts at Selkyrk (t).

After a respite of half a century, the rival kings again began alternate grants
of those forests to rival families. Kobert III. conferred on Archibald Douglas,
who had married his daughter Margaret, the regalities of the forest of EUerich,
of Lauderdale, and Romannoch, with the loi'dship of Douglas {u). In 1403,
Henry IV., studious to reward the strenuous merits of Henry Percy, the Earl of
Northumberland, granted, as much as in him ivere, the earldom of Douglas,
Eskdale, Lydsdale, Lauderdale, the lordship of Sellirk and the foivst of Eteryh
with the domains, castles, peels, fortalices, manors, villages, hamlets, sheilings,
lands, tenements, rents, services, with the pertinents, in Scotland, which William,
James and Archibald, the three first Earls of Douglas, had held, or Archibald
that now is, or Joan his mother, enjoyed when the earl was taken at llamildou
hill (x). Percy had already forgotten how Douglas had fought at Otlerhuni !
Henry IV. but faintly recollected how many Douglases had been taken, and
how often Scotsmen had been overcome, yet were never conquered. It still
required the experience of three hostile centuries to convince English statesmen
that Scotland could only be obtained by treaty. Many a conflict followed that
grant to Percy, and many truces were made between kings whose pretensions
were irreconcileal)le, and between nations, whose wrongs, as they were often
renewed, could not be rectified.

without supposing the love of a Countess of Douglas, who did not then exist. Godscroft, 77-8-81.
There was no Earl or Countess of Douglas, in 1353.

(<) Eegist. David II., 131 ; Printed Rec, 45. Crawfurd's Peerage, 6ft. in stating the above grant,
calls mistakingly the thing granted, the barony of Selkrvj.

(u) Roberts. Index, 142. {x) Eym., viii. 289.

Sect. Yl.—Its Civil History.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 985

During a moment of quiet, James II. granted to William, Earl Douglas, on
the 26th of January 1450-1, the forests of Selkirk and Ettrick, in a free
regality, with the accustomed jurisdictions (a). This potent chief now domi-
neered a while in Selkirkshire, but he was too proud and too powerful to
be restrained by gratitude or ruled by law. The Earl of Douglas, in an age
which was fatal to his family, was forfeited in 1455 for his many treasons ;
and on the 4th of August, in the same year, the lordship of Etti-ick forest, with
its pertinents, was annexed to the crown by act of Parliament {b). Selkirkshire
was, after this great change, governed by the king's stewart, during three-and-
thirty years, throughout the pertui'bed reigns of James II. and James III. (c).
But that forfeiture was never forgiven by the Douglases, whose chief pursued
James III., as his evil genius, till he obtained his dethronement and death on
Stirling-field. The first parliament of James IV., which, after that event, met
on the 7th of October 1488, gave the domination of the several sheriffdoms of
Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles and Lanark, to the same Earl of Angus who had
thus dethroned the unhappy king [d). The other chiefs of that revolt hud mU
their individual rewards for their several villainies. Alexander Home, the great
chamberlain, was appointed in parliament, on the 15th of February 1489-90, to
collect the king's rents and casual revenues in the shires of Selkirk and Stirling,
as he had in keeping the castles of Strivelin and Newark [e). The common
people cried out shame and vengeance in vain !

While the chamberlain thus enjoyed the fruits, the king possessed the fee of
those countries. When James IV., who had been made an instrument of mis-
chief by those insurgents, had agreed to marry the Lady Margaret of England,
he thought of those estates for her dower ; and on the 24th of May 1503, he
endowed her with the whole forest of Ettrick in Selkirkshire, with the manor
of Newark and its tower within the same forest {/). She soon after obtained

(o) Scotstarvit's Calendar. (b) Pari. Eec, 36.

('■) The parliament, on the 12th of January, 1467-8, having directed an inquest to be made into
each landholder's rent, in each shire, for the purpose of assessment, appointed, in Selkirkshire, for
making that retovr John Murra}' and John Turnbull. Pari. Rec.. 151. This is the first public
appearance of a Murray in Selkirkshire.

(d) Pari. Eec, 337.

(e) lb., 364. Newark castle on the Yarrow. About half a mile below it there was the castle of
Oldwark. See Ainslie's Map of Selkirkshire. We are told in song that there is a peel on
Leaderhaughs,

" Which stands as sweet on Leaderside,

As Newark does on Yarrow.''
(/) Eym., xiii. 63.

986 Ax ACCOUNT [Ch. VIII.— 5e//fcjril-«^iVe.

seisin of the whole from John Murray of Falahill, the sheriti" of Selku'k (g).
When her husband fell on Flodden-field on the 9th of September 1513, the
queen dowager became possessed of Ettrick forest. The eftects of her unruly-
passions of love, ambition and caprice, occupy much of the annals of Scotland
during the infancy of her son, James V., and were felt by her grand-daughter,
Mary Stewart (/;). On the death of his mother, James V. naturally resumed his
own rights in the forest and the manor of Newark. When Sir Ralph Sadler
came to Scotland in 1540, to execute the guilty projects of Henry VIII., he
remonstrated with James on his keeping sheep, and using other mean methods
of increasing his revenues (i). King Harry and Su- Ralph had forgotten the
mean methods in the English Exchequer of old (^•). The better mode of
finance, which was proposed by the king and his ambassador, was to seize the
estates of unoifending subjects. After James V.'s return from his voyage round
the Hebrides, he took measures against the border chiefs ; and Walter Scott
of Buccleuch, with other leading men of the neighbouring countries, were
warded in Edinburgh castle and other fortalices. Whereupon, saith Pitscottie,
great quiet and oi'der endured for a long time, whereby the king had great
profit from his 10,000 sheep going in Ettiiclc forest under the keeping of Andrew
Bell, who made the king as good an account of them as if they had gone in the
bounds of Fife {I). In the various course of 250 years the 10,000 sheep had
succeeded, it should seem, in Ettrick forest, the 10,000 bucks of Edward I.'s
bounteous age {ra).

(g) To the instrument of seisin his seal was appended "in signum executionis sui oflBcii.'' lb.,
73-4.

(Ii) On the 18th of October, 1524, the Earl of Arran wrote to Dacre that the queen dowager's
influence had been so small, that Scott of Buccleuch had long retained part of her dower, worth 4,000
marks a year, for which cause, after she had gained the ascendency over her infant son, she had
committed him, and Ker of Cessford, to Edinburgh castle. Orig. Letter Calig., b. vii. 74. They were
both men of too much influence to remain long in ward. On the 26th of July 1526, Walter Scott of
Buccleuch brought out from the forest a thousand men, who attempted to rescue James V. from the
domination of the Earl of Angus, the husband of the widowed queen ; but the gallant Scott was
repulsed, with the loss of eighty followers, who were killed upon the field. Lesley, 419-21 ; Pitscottie,
247-8. This conflict happened at Darnwick, on the Tweed, at the bridge above Melrose, as the king
was returning from Jedburgh. Margaret enjoyed Ettrick forest till her death, in 1541.

(t) Sadler's State Letters, 6-38.

(i-) See Madox's Hist, of the Exchequer, throughout. (/) Pitscottie, 279.

(m) See the Rotuli Scotia;, throughout. " For many ages (as we are told by those who spoke
from tradition), the queens of Scotland had the forest as a part of their dower ; but it was

Sect. VL —Its Civil History. ] OfNORTH -BRITAIN. 987.

But the quiet of which Pitscottie was studious to tell did uot last long
during such times and among such men. In May 1565, the Elliots, in a com-
pany of 300, burnt and spoiled ten miles about the laird of Buccleuch's land,
and slew many men, some women, and some children (n). In the progress of
chsinge famihj feicds were succeeded hy fanatical conflicts, whereof Selkirkshire
had its full share. On the 13th of September 1645, was fought the decisive
battle of Philiphaugh (o). This, then, is one of the last of the civil conflicts

feued to the lairds of Buccleuch, for good services, by Queen Mary.'' Scott and Elliot's MS. Acco.,
1649. Only one queen enjoyed the forest, as a part of her dower, as we have just seen. In the
parliament of October 1612, the supplications of the feuars of Selkirkshire were referred to the Lords
of Session, to grant commission as prayed. Unprinted Act, No. 58.

(m) Randolph's Letter to Secretary Cecil, dated from Edinburgh, the 8th of May, 1565, in the
Paper Office.

(o) There is a hauyh, says Hodges, below Philiphaugh, which goes down by the side of the water, a
mile in length, usually called the Common Haugh of Selkirk, opposite to the town, where was fought
a great battle betwixt the Earl of Montrose and David Lesley. MS. Acco., 1722, Adv. Lib. In those
times every point was contested with the obstinacy of their conflicts. The following account of the
battle of Philiphaugh was published by the victoi-s, under mithority : — After the defeating of our forces
near Kilsyth, all the malignants [loyalists] in the country ran in to him [Montrose], but did not all add
much to his strength. His whole force, in horse and foot, did not amount to seven thousand ; but all
these were not present at this last battle ; for, upon the releasing of Lodowick Lindsay, some time Earl
of Crawford, out of prison, there arose some difference among the rebels [royalists], Montrose having
promised to the Lord Gordon to make him a general of the horse, for which the Earl of Crawford
having a commission from the king, before his imprisonment, was preferred by Montrose. This
gave gi-eat cause of discontent to the Lord Gordon ; and thereupon he retired with 500 men to his own
countiy. Another occasion of the diminution of his force was, that the Marquis of Argyll's
forces, and the Earl of Seaforth's, had possessed themselves of the rebels' lands and houses in
the north, which moved the enemy to send 800 men to protect their lands. With the rest of
their forces, the enemy [Montrose] marched eastward, to interrupt the levy of our forces that were
raising in the eastern and southern parts of the kingdom. But upon Lieutenant-General David
Lesley's coming into Berwickshire and East-Lothian, he [Montrose] marched south towards Selkirk,
where he might have the assistance of the malignants [the loyalists] that live upon the Scottish
and English borders. Upon Friday, the 12th of this instant [September], which was a day of fasting
and humiliation, Lieutenant-General David Lesley, with his forces, advanced within three miles of the
enemy, who were quartered in Philiphaugh, not far from Selkirk. That night he sent out two parties,
who fell in upon their quarters, killed some, and gave them the alarm, which made them continue all
night in arms ; and ours did the like. The morrow being Saturday, the 13th, our forces marched
towards the enemy, and came within view of them about ten in the morning. According to their
[Montrose] usual manner, they had made choice of a most advantageous ground, wherein they had
entrenched themselves, having upon the one hand an impassable ditch, and on the other dykes and
hedges ; and where these were not strong enough, they further fortified them by casting up ditches.

988 A X A C C 0 U N T [Cb. XUl.—Selkirkshire.

which stained those murderous forests with human gore and wasted them with
wilful fire. When Scotland dreaded, as one of the consequences of that
victory, an invasion from England in 1650, the men of Selkirkshire were
commanded by the urgency of the times, fanatical and foolish, to mount their
steeds ( j>).

If we turn from hostile to more peaceful times we shall pei'ceive the sad
effects of all those wars. By the long-continued conflicts with the Edwards
the rental of Selkirkshire was reduced from its state under the Alexanders,
according to the old extent, from £99 9s. lOd. yearly, to £80 18s. 6d., under
David II., according to the new. The whole shire continued under the manage-
ment of a private estate rather than the regimen of the demesne of the crown ;
and the chamberlain settled yearly with the sheriff for the amount of the
king's rental in Ettrick forest, while the sheriff accounted annually in the
Exchequer for the whole issues of the shire. In 1502 the sheriti" accounted
for a rental of £1,875 4s. In 1667 he accounted only for £1,052 15s. 4d.

and lined their hedges with musketeers. After viewing one another, there came out three hoi-ses from
each side ; and after skirmishing very gallantly about a quarter of ;in hour, the enemy's three were
beaten in. After this, the enemy sent a party of 200 musketeers, who were forced by ours to retreat
in great disorder ; whereupon, the van of our forces advanced, and for almost an hour (being between
eleven and twelve o'clock) it was hotly disputed, our horse endeavouring to break through, and the
enemy with great resolution maintaining their ground. At length, Lieutenaut-General David Lesley,
charging very desperately, upon the head of his own regiment, broke the body of the enemy's foot, after
which they went all in confusion ; and the horse wanting their foot, were not able to make gi-eat
opposition ; the foot were all cut off and taken, whereof 100 were Irish, who ivere all since shot at apost.
Many of the horse were killed upon the place, and many taken, but more in the pursuit ; for they
rallied again, which occasioned their greater overthrow. Of the foot and horse, it is conceived there
are between two and three thousand killed. Montrose himself escaped with a few horse, leavino-
behind him all his baggage, among which is found his commission from the king, and divere other
commissions, for lieutenants in the several counties, together with a roll of all such as have taken pro-
tections from him, which icill be a good vidimus for the j>ayi)ient of our soldiers. Since the battle
divers of the enemy's soldiers are killed, and taken by the country people. — Such, then, is the satis-
factory account of the bloody battle of Philipliaugh, which was drawn up at Haddington, on the 16th
of September, 1645, and transmitted, by W. H., to London, where it was immediately pi-inted, by
authority. See Laing's account of this fight, i. 315. We now perceive, from the relation of
the godly, that Montrose was neither surprised nor out-generalled : he had judiciously chosen
his camp, and had skilfully fortified it : his troops fought gallantly ; but they were perhaps
oppiessed by numbers, or overpowered by the veteran skill of their enemies. The Irish were
put to death in cold blood by the victors, and Montrose's soldiers were deliberately killed by the
country people.

(p) The parliament, on that occasion, required Roxburghshire to furnish 180 horse, and Selkirk-
shire 47, while Mid-Lothian alone raised a regiment of 900 infantry. Ayloffe's Calend., 421.

Sect. VL—Its Civil Histor;/.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 989

So that the difference of the rentals of the two periods was £822 18s. 8d., the
amount of the waste of the intermediate times, owing to the dilapidations of
the minority of James V., of the Reformation and of the grand rebellion (?•).

It is only since the recent accession of Robert Bruce that the forest assumed
a new shape and acknowledged new superiors in succession, that new families
arose in their turns, the Douglases, the Scotts, and the Murrays. The Duke
of Douglas seems to have derived none of his many titles from the localities of
this shire. William, Lord Douglas, the second son of the first Marquis of
Douglas, was created Earl of Selkirk in 1646, and upon his resignation
James VII. created his second son, Charles Hamilton, Earl of Selkirk (i).
Archibald, Earl of Douglas and Longville, Lord of Galloway and Anandir-
dale, was also "lord of the forest of Ettrick(<)." After the fall of the
Douglases, the Scotts, who flourished of old in Roxburghshire, in Lanark,
and in Peebles-shire, rose to great distinction in Selkirkshire (m). In 1673 the
Duke of Monmouth, marrying the rich Countess of Buccleuch, and assuming
her name, was created Duke of Buccleuch, as she was at the same time created
Duchess of Buccleuch (x). Henry Scott, the second son of this marriage, was
in 1706 created Earl of Delorane. Elibank furnished a baronial title to Sir
Patrick Murray in 1643 (y). In 1639, Patrick Ruthven, who had learned the
art of war under the great Gustavus, was created Lord Ettrick (z). This shire
has also supplied several senators to the College of Justice as well as peers of
parliament. Sir Gideon Murray rose to be a Lord of Session, by the title of

(r) MS. State, by Mr. Solicitor Gen. Pur\ris.

(.s) Crawford's Peer., 438-9. (t) Great Seal Bee. Book, ii., No. fiO-1.

(m) On the •29tk of January, 1437-8, " Dominus de Bukcleucli " was present in the last parliament
of James III. Pari. Eec, 325. This was merely the laird of Buccleuch who thus early sat in
parliament. The first creation in his family of a lord of parliament was that of Sir Walter Scott, on
the 16th of March 1606, whose son Walter was created Earl of Buccleuch on the 16th of March 1619.
Crawford's Peer., 54.

(x) Crawford's Peer,, 52. With an allusion to this marriage, perhaps, the motto of this eminent
family is Amo. The war cry of the Scotts, however, was Alemoor, the usual rendezvous of the whole
clan. The elegant lay of Leaderhaughs and Yarrow, when lamenting the changes of times and
chances, deplores —

" For many a place stands in hard case.
Where blyth folk kened nae sorrow,
With Hoiaes, that lived on Leadeiside,
And Scotts, that dwelt on Yarrow."

((/) Douglas Peer., 241. (-') lb., 273.

4 6H

990 AnAOCOUNT [Ch. Ylll.—Sea-irkskire.

Lord Elibank, in 1613(a). Sir James Murray, who had been concerned in
treasonable practices during the turbulent reign of Charles II,, was in 1689
made a Lord of Session by the title of Philiphaugh. In 1707 Mr. John
Murray, who was probably of the same family, was elevated to the same seat
by the title of Lord Bowhill. Mr. John Pringle of Haining, which adjoins
Selkirk town, was appointed a senator in 1729. But, above all those, Andrew
Pringle was placed in the senate-house on the 14th of June 1759, by the title
of Lord Alemoor, who, as a lawyer, was distinguished by his modesty and
eloquence, and as a judge, was respected for his dignity and knowledge.
Such were the lawyers which this shire has supplied. It produced an eminent
soldier in Colonel William Russel of Ashesteil, who distinguished himself
among the wai-riors of India. Mary Scott, thejioiver of Yarroiv, is still remem-
bered by the cold-blooded ministers of Ettrick forest (b). She is celebrated by
Allan Ramsay in an amorous rant :

" With success crown'd. I'll not envy
The folks who dwell above the sky ;
When Mary Scott's become my marrow.
We'll make a paradise on Yarrow."

Rutherford of Fearnilie produced a daughter of uncommon activity of intellect
and extraordinary powers of lyric poetry. She married a Cockburn, and while
yet very young, deplored the instability of life in pathetic numbers (c). The
men who can read without a sigh the moving laments of the elegant women
whom tlie border shires have produced, the Homes, the Elliots, the Rutherfords,
when deploring the discomfiture of their countrymen, must " be cursed with

(a) On the second of November, the lords dispensed with any trial of his qualifications, "because
of the certain knowledge they had of them." Lord Hailes's Note on the Catalogue, 13. Gideon,
from being chamberlain (bailiff) to Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, rose, by the help of the
notorious Earl of Somerset, to be treasurer-depute to the king, whose money he managed with
great fidelity. He died in 1621. The appropriate motto of this family is, Virtute Jideqtte.
Crawford Peer., 134.

(b) When she was born is disputed : the better opinion seems to be that she was the fair
daughter of Walter Scott of Dryhope, and the beloved wife of Scott of Hai-den. They had a
daughter, who married an Elliot, " Gibby with the golden garters ; ' and from them are
descended Sir William Elliot of Stobs, and the renowned Lord Heathfield. ' Stat. Acco., ii. 437 ;
lb., vii. 505. Thus sprung the illustrious defender of Gibraltar from Mary Scott, the jlower of
Yarrow.

(c) " 0 fickle fortune ! why this cruel sporting.
Why thus pei-plex us, 'poor sons of a day !
Thy frowns cannot fear me, thy smiles cannot cheer me,
Since the flowers of the forest are a' wede away."

Sect. YiJ.—Its Arjrivulture, etc.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 991

hearts unknowing how to yield." Very different is the frigid dulhiess of the
" auld sang of the Outlaw Murray," which has been long a popular song in
Selkirkshire. It speaks, indeed, of the well-known localities of "the fair
foreste" with the "brave outlaw" and his " chjvalrye." The history of
Selkirkshire, as it appears in the chartularies, reprobates the fictitious follies
of this sang as wholly unwarranted by the fact.

§ VII. Of its Agriculture, Manufacture, and Trade.'] It is apparent, from
the names of places in this shire, that the Saxon colonists had settled within
its inmost recesses during times beyond the period of record. If we look
back upon the instructive chartularies, we shall perceive that the whole forest
existed under the regimen of pasturage rather than of tillage during the reign
of David I. This general position must be, however, limited by the special
fact that David had mills at Selkirk, which seems to imply that there was
some tillage in the openings of that forest. The royal mills at Selkirk
remained in the king's demesne till the recent age of Robert Bruce {d). The
abbots of Kelso had also their mill at Selkirk for several ages, which afforded
them not a small profit (e). Considerable intervals must have, even in the
happy days of David, been cleared of wood, and from that age the destruction
of the woodlands must have gone on progressively, with little interruption,
till the country became quite denuded. As the mosses arose chiefly from the
destruction of the woods, either by design or accident, we may infer, from the
depth of the mossy places, the period of their decay. The long wars with
England for the succession to the crown of Alexander III. and for the indepen-
dence of the nation must have destroyed many woods, as the principle of those
hostilities was waste. There is reason to believe that in the ages which pre-
ceded those wars, Selkirkshire was more productive and populous than it has
been at any period since. The woods gave warmth to the country, shelter to
the herbs, with abundant mast and herbage for food. In those times every
church had its village, every seat its hamlet, and every farm its cottages (/)

(d) Robert I. granted his mill of Selkirk to Henry Gelehdal for two marls of Mver, yearly. Robert-
son's Index, 21.

(«) At the commencement of the 14tb century, the abbot's com-mill rented for five marks
yearly. Chart. Kelso, 1 5. From the same document, we learn that 30 acres of land, at some
distance from the town, rented for five shillings. So that the abbot's mill brought him a rent equal
to about 400 acres of common land within the forest; the mark being 13s. 4d. money of
account.

(/) The parcels of land which David I. had granted to the monks of Kelso in different parts of the

992 An ACCOUNT [Ch. YllL— Selkirkshire.

Nothing could be more promotive of populousness than such a system, or
more advantageous to the state. The property of the abbot lying around
Selkirk, which would not make a little farm according to the agricultural
system of the present times, maintained in comfort and content during the
ancient regimen six-and-thirty families. This agricultvu'al state of prosperity
and happiness continued till the sad demise of Alexander III. The disputes
and the conflicts with regard to the succession to his crown soon ensued.
These contests gave rise to the inveterate wars for the independence of the
nation which lasted many an age. Agriculture was ruined, and prosperity was
driven from the land. The family feuds and civil wars which followed those
events, with little intermission, allowed no opportunity and gave little leisure
to reanimate agriculture (g).

At the middle of the seventeenth century, the people of this shire and
their affairs were represented by those who knew them perfectly to have
continued what they had always been and what they still continue (A). The
people were represented as of robust bodies, in regard the country is moun-
tainous and obliges them to travel much in attendance upon their cattle and
sheep, while their diet is frugal. They are ingenuous and hate deceit. Theft
and robbeiy are unknown among them (i), and a lie is never heard from

forest, were conjoined by the beneficence of Malcolm IV., by way of exchange, so as to enlarge the
quantity of lands which they had around the town. Chart. Kelso, No. 378. The economy of the
abbots was excellently contrived for rearing a numerous population. The abbot's lands were let
in husband-lands, each containing a borate or oxgate, and having a right of common of pasturage
for a certain number of beasts. There was also a great number of cottages, with crofts, containing
each nearly an acre of land. Towards the end of the 13th century, the monks had at Selkirk-
abbatis, in demesne, a canicate and a half of land, which used to rent for ten marks ; they had
fifteen husband-lands here, each containing a bovate of land, which used to rent for four shillings,
yearly, yielding certain services ; they had here sixteen cottages, with ten acres of land, one
whereof rented yearly for two shillings, and fifteen for one shilling, doing moreover certain services ;
and the abbot had three brewhouses, which used to rent each for 6s. 8d., yearly, with a com mill,
which brought five marks yearly. They had here also, without their demesne, separately, thirty acres
of land which used to rent yearly at 53., and four acres which used to rent for 6s. yearly. Chart.
Kelso, 15-16.

(ff) Before the year 1502, the king's lands of ancient demesne, within this forest, had been divided in-
to thirty farms, which then yielded, annually, into the Eoyal Exchequer, £1,875 143. Before the year
1667, this rental had declined in its total amount to £1,094 18s. Such was the effect of the inter-
mediate events. MS. Account.

(h) By Messrs. Elliot and Scott, two country gentlemen, in 1649. MS. Advocates Library.

(t) Since the epoch of 1529, when James V. enforced the decision of Justice, by causing execution
to be done on Scott of Tushielaw, the king of the thieves, and on Armstrong of Liddisdale, the prince oj
plunilerers. The border songsters, however, lament the merited fate of those wretched outlaws ; as
with them, every thief, at the tree, is sure to die an Adonis.

Sect. Yll.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 993

their mouths, except among the baser sort. Their way of living is more by
pasture of cattle than by tillage of the ground.

It is scarcely possible to trace the precise appearance of the agricultural
resuscitation in this pastoral shire. In 1722 we have seen 12,0U0 ewes
milked daily during the month of June, at Taits-Cross, in this sheep- breeding
shire. The year 1723 has been assigned as the general era of georgical
improvements {h). They did not here begin, perhaps, till the end of the reign
of George II. The late Doctor Mercer was the first who began agricultural
meliorations at Selkirk town. In 1759 his enclosures and culture were
admirably skilful. The sowing in rotation of turnip, barley, and grass-seeds
was his favourite plan (/). Potatoes found their way into this country some
years before turnips (m). The improvements of new articles and better modes
of cultivation were followed by the useful melioration of more commodious
roads. In consequence of an act of parliament, which passed in 1764, twelve
miles of road were made into turnpike, on the way from Hawick through
Selkirk town to Crosslee, towards Edinburgh, with an useful branch of three
miles to Galashiels. Whatever may be the utility of this road in bringing
coals and manui'e, and carrying the products of the shire, the cross-roads
remain without much amendment, though the track be gravelly and the
materials be near. Attempts have, indeed, been made to carry roads from
Selkirk, along the course both of the Ettrick and Yarrow, for opening a
communication with Moffat and Annandale. Other communications have been
proposed but not adopted, though they would bring many advantages with
them to an agricultural country which wants manure and fuel. Bridges
upon the Ettrick seem to have originally been erected by the beneficent spirit of
David I. ; and the bridge upon that noble stream, at Selkirk town, appears, as
we have perceived, to have been early placed under the jurisdiction of the
abbots of Kelso, who were bound to repair it ; because lands had been given
them by the royal bounty for the true execution of this special trust {n). The

{k) There was printed, however, at Edinburgh, in 1697, a little book entitled, "Enquiry into the
manner of tilling and manuring the ground in Scotland, by James Donaldson."

(/) Wight's first Survey of Selkirk, iii. 21. The Rev. Mr. Alexander Glen, while he was
minister at Galashiels from 1757 to 1760, was the first who introduced lime to any extent as a
manure. During that period the late Lord Alemoor drained a morass for marl. Agricultural
Survey, 292.

(to) lb., 273.

{n) As Alexander II. granted to the abbot of Kelso certain lands on both sides of the Ettrick.
"ad perpetuam sustentationem pontis de Ettrick," it should seem that whoever stands in the abbot's
shoes is bound to repair this bridge. Chart. Kelso, No. 392.

994 An ACCOUNT [Ch. YUI.— Selkirkshire.

inveterate war of the thirteenth, fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries,
were pecuHarly fatal to the bridges of the soutliern shires. The present reign
has seen some useful bridges built in this country ; but convenience demands
that other bridges should be thrown across the mountain streams, which swell
suddenly, and often obsti'uct business by preventing travel. Add to all those
faciUties that a passion for improvements began at the end of the late reign,
and have been encouraged during the present. When Wight made his second
Survey of the agricultui-al management in this shire in 1782, " he was amazed
to behold the advances which had been made since his former view ; scarce a
field but had assumed a better aspect, by an improving hand," (o). We thus
see the existence and operation of an active and intelligent spirit, which was,
however, restrained in its improvement by the infelicities of circumstances.
The husbandmen had to struggle with a chill climate, and scarcity of fuel, with
founderous roads, and distance from lime, the great fertilizer of a damp soil ;
with the uncertainty of their tenures and the absence of means. With all
those disadvantages pressing upon them, an active and well-informed body of
farmers continued to struggle with their wants, under a resolution to supply
them by diligence and management. After every effort had been made, and
every improvement executed, towards the end of the eighteenth century, the
whole shire, with regard to its agricultural arrangement and profit, may be
estimated in the following manner :

Cultivated lands, ......

Woods and plantations (p), - . - - -

Gardens, pleasure-grounds, house-steds, ...

Pasture-ground (q), including moors, mosses, lakes, rivers, roads, &c..

Total superficies, and yearly profit, - - 182,400 £32,000

[In 1887 there were 4534 acres of corn crops ; 2782 acres of green crops ; 8050 acres of clover and
grasses under rotation ; 8967 acres of permanent pasture or grass ; and 7 acres bare fallow. In the
same year there were 582 horses ; 2700 cattle ; 158,518 sheep ; and 408 pigs.]

(o) Reports, vi. 607.

(/) Before the seventeenth century, the country had become perfectly shorn of its woods. The
remains of the natural shrubberies of the forest scarcely deserve notice. The whole of the woods are
artificial, consisting chiefly of Scotch firs. Mr. Johnston, in his Agricultural View of this shire, com-
putes the wood at 2000 acres, and he is followed by Dr. Douglas in his Agricultural SuiTey : but they
state the superficies of the shire somewhat less than its real measurement ; and the spirit of plantation
has been busy since Mr. Johnston formed his computation.

(q) The pastures consist chiefly in gi-een hills, there being little of moorland here. There are a few
meadows on the rivulet sides, as tfie hoirnis of Yarrow [holms], which are mentioned in song ; yet they
cannot compare with the Leaderhaughs, which have become classical pasturages.

Eng. Acres.

Yearly Rent.

9,300

£4,850

2,200

2,500

1,250

1,500

169,650

23,150

Sect. Yll.—Its Agriculture, <? te.] OfNORTH-BBITAIN. 995

When Wight bade farewell to Selkirkshire, he cried out, with a mixture of
regret and joy : " However barren and comfortless you may appear to a hasty
stranger, you contain in your bosom a fund of riches that never can be exhausted
while men love mutton and wear broad-cloth" [q).

Yet of manufactures and trade Selkirk cannot boast. In the good old reign
of David I., the principal manufacture was corn of different sorts and in various
ways. The king's mill at Selkirk-regis, converted the grain into meal and malt;
and the abbots' brewhouses would easily manufacture the malt into a very
wholesome beverage. The women could readily convert the wool into garments,
and the men knew how to convert the hides of the cattle and the skins of the
sheep into coverings for the feet, the legs and the head. It is more than pro-
bable that the abbot sent out the wool, the hides and the skins, to Berwick,
where in early ages the traders of Flanders resided. Such were the manufac-
tures and commerce of Selkirkshire, till the wars of the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries ruined all.

The civil wars of Charles I.'s unhappy age, left the agriculture, the manu-
factures, and the traffic of this shire, with the country more shorn of its woods,
in pretty much the same state whereto the wars of Edward I. had reduced them.
We know this from the representation of those who knew the country the
best (r). The commodities of this shire, say they, are great plenty of butter
and cheese, which were of the finest sort. It affordeth also store of neat-hydes
and sheep-skins, and of wool, which is carried to foreign nations ; so that the
cold eastern countries bless this happy soil, being warmed with the fleeces of
their sheep. It supplies, too, store of neat and sheep, which are carried partly
to the northern districts of Scotland, but mostly into England, the custom
whereof, at the border, is no small increase to his majesty's revenue ; and it
affords, moreover, great plenty of well-spun worsted, which is carried for the
most part into foreign nations (s). Such is the representation of two country

((/) The Agricult. Survey, 309, estimated, on good grounds, that there are raised yearly, in this
shire, 118,000 sheep. Of these, there are of the white-faced 82,000 ; of the black-faced 36,000 :
The first yielded, of wool, at 15s., 11,700 stone, worth - - - . £8,770 sterling.

The second yielded, of ditto, at 6s. 6d., 5,538 ditto, worth ... l.sOO

£10,570

(r) Messrs. Elliot and Scot's MS. Account, 1649.

(s) Wlien Wight came to survey the burgh of Selkirk in 1777, he remarked that the women are
excellent spinners, and are fully employed by the English manufacturers of woollen cloth, on account
of the cheapness. Thus, says he, the spinning of wool has made a progress from Yorkshire to
Selkirk Reports, iii, 2 1 , They at length spin for their own manufacturers. Such is the progression
of industry !

996 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. VIII. — SelkirtMre.

gentlemen, who, living within this shire, must have known its economical state
in their own times. Their statements are confirmed by a fact which evinces
the want of people and of opulence in that wretched age (t).

The fishings of this shire were, perhaps, of full as much importance in the
days of David I. as they are at present. That beneficent prince gave to the
monks of Selkirk, by his foundation charter, his ivaters about Selechirche, for
the fishing of their men, in the same manner as his own (it). He also gave
tlie monks of Melrose the right of fishing in the Tweed, from the vicinity of
Selkirk above, to a considerable distance below Melrose {x). During 1725,
there was still " a veiy rich fishing in the Tweed of salmon and grilse. In the
Ettrick, a very good fishing for trouts, grilses and salmon ; and in the Yarrow,
a very good fishing for trouts and grilses " (y). In the agricultural reports of
this shire at present, we hear from them but little of the fishings which for-
merly furnished comforts, as they do not afford an export to some foreign country,
or at least to some distant capital.

The linen manufacture seems never to have taken root in this pastoral shire.
Wool is undoubtedly the great basis of its natural fabric. In 1649, as we have
seen, the wool and worsted yarn were exported to give genial warmth to the
Baltic people. In the present day, the wool and yarn of private families are
here made into cloth, flannels, blankets, and worsted stuffs for women's gowns,
to an extent which equals the domestic demand. But Galashiels is the busy
seat of the woollen manufacture. The epoch of its commencement here is not
ascertained (2). It has made a very rapid progress. The manufacturers have
overcome every difficulty. They have obtained skill and industry and capital.

(t) The excise both of Selkirk and of Peebles-shiies, was rented to Richard Smith for £347, in the
year ending with January 1656-7. Tucker's MS. in the Advocates Library.

(w) Dalrymple's Col. 404 ; Chart. Kelso, No. 4. David confirmed this grant when he removed the
monks to Kelso in 1128.

(x) Chart. Melrose, No. 54. Malcolm IV. granted to the same monks the fishings of Selkirk. lb.
No. 56.

(y) Hodge's MS. Account, 1725, in the Advocates Library.

(?) Wight remarked, in 1777, a sort of woollen cloth made here, termed Galashiels grey, which was
in great request, being sold from 20d. to 2s. per yard. Report, iii. 9. This seems to imply that the
manufacture of wool was then in its first stage. The trustees for manufactures and fishery in Scotland,
had given premiums for the improvement of spinning wool, he adds. When Wight visited Galashiels,
the manufacturers did not work up more than 750 stone in any year. They now consume upwards of
5,000 stone. Yet, as the whole quantity of white-faced sheeps' wool which is annually shorn, is more
than 11,000, the difference shows how much they must manufacture before they consume the whole
wool that is annually grown.

Sect. YLl.—Its Agriculture, etc.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 997

They have now introduced machinery, having the power of water, into every
part of their fabrics. They have even estabhshed here a Hall for the more
commodious sale of their various manufactures. They not only make cloth but
blankets and stockings. They make inkle to a great extent. They have here
tanners, tawers, and candlemakers, and the makers of agricultural instruments.
Thus, Galashiels, containing very few more than a thousand souls, seems to be a
very busy scene of gainful manufactures. During the year 1722, Galashiels was
represented " as a market town, with its weekly market on Wednesday, as be-
longing to Scott of Gala, and as having a Tol booth in the middle of the town,
with a clock and a bell, and market-cross, and its church and burying-ground
at the east end ; the Gala water running hard by the town on the north, and
adjoining the Tweed a mile below" (a). We may thus perceive that Galashiels
is a harotiial hurgh, under Scott of Gala, who was found by Wight, the
agricultural tourist, very busy in improving his farms and in benefitting his
town.

Yet, as this shire neither raises wheat nor fattens cattle, both these articles,
with other necessaries, and some luxuries, must be impoi'ted from other districts.
Upon a fair estimate, however, according to the true principles of the mer-
cantile system, of the outgoings and incomings of Selkirkshire, it appears
that —

The total produce of the county is woi'th, yearly, - - - £G8,995
The whole payments for the rent, materials of manufactures, ) ._ .nn
bread and meat for the people, etc., - - - - - j '

So that, here is a clear gain to the shire of - - - - £21,5G3 (h).

But if we were to look back upon ancient times, we should find more people
and more cattle, with equal comforts, under a different regimen. In the halcyon
days of David I,, whose beneficence " brought forth the arts of peace," a single
farmer, renting a whole district, did not exist. A hamlet was then possessed by
several husbandmen, with divers cottagers. The husbandmen tilled their
individual portions in severalty, but pastured their cattle on the village com-
mon, in generalty. The cottage of the same hamlet enjoyed a little house,

(a) Webster's MS. Account, 1722.

(/>) Agricult. Survey, 325-7. To this work, and to Mr. Johnston's View of the Agriculture of
Selkirkshire, must be referred the more curious reader for the many minute particulars of its present
husbandry ; I can only give general sketches.

4 61

998 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. YilL.— Selkirkshire.

with a toft, and were equally entitled to common of pasturage and pannage for
a specified number of cattle and swine. The larger villages of this sort had the
useful accommodations of a mill, a malt-kiln, and a brewhouse. We see in the
chartularies, this agricultural polity every where in practice during the twelfth
and thirteenth centuries ; and it is apparent that the country, under that
regimen, bred and supported a greater number of people, cattle and swine,
than it does at present under a new husbandry (c). The people who were raised
under that polity, were the men who under Bruce and Randolph, vindicated
the national independence, and successfully resisted the odious claims of an
overbearing pretender.

§ VIII. Of its Ecclesiastical History.^^ There is reason to believe that the
religious establishments of this shire were never comprehended within the ample
diocese of Lindisfarne {d). This shire lay wholly within the bishopric of
Glasgow, after the restoration of that see (e). It remained under the juris-
diction of the archdeacon of Glasgow till the year 1238, when the arch-
deaconry of Teviotdale, which comprehended the churches of Selkirkshire, was
established [f). Under this archdeaconry and that diocese, the churches of

(c) From that statement it is apparent that there were in those times many more people.
The system of depopulation, though it began as early as the Union, has only appeared in its sad
effects during our own days. Of these effects, and of that depopulation, the ministers in their
Statistical Accounts speak with some indignation. The minister of Yarrow says, " The aged
people all agree in asserting that the former population considerably exceeded the present, as
indeed appears from the numerous remains of old houses." Stat. Acco., vii. 504. The minister
of Ettrick states that the population of that parish was considerably greater in former times ;
there were, about fifty years preceding 1794, tinrty-tivo houses, where there are now only three.
lb., iii. 296. The minister of Eoberton says there were formerly several hamlets in his parish,
whereof there are now no vestiges. lb., xi. 543. The minister of Selkirk says that the depopulation
of that parish is wholly in the country part of it ; he adds, it is painful to see one person rent a
property which formerly reared one hundred inhabitants for the State. lb., ii. 435. The minister
of Galashiels says that tradition, as well as the ruins of houses, evince what the general opinion is,
that the parish and village of Galashiels were much more populous a hundred years before.
lb., ii. 306. From all those representations and facts, it is apparent that the population tables
w^hich represent the people as increased during late times, must erroneously state the numbers
too high.

((/) Selkirkshire is plainly without the limits beyond the Tweed, which were assigned to the Nor-
thumbrian episcopate in its largest extent. Leland's Col., ii. 36(5.

(e) The foundation charter by Earl David of Selkirk. Dal. Col. App., and the Chartulary of
Kelso.

(f) Chron. Melrose, 203. Peter de Allingtun was the first archdeacon of Teviotdale. Id.

Sect. YIU.~Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorij.'] Op NORTH-BRITAIN. '.W.i

Selkirkshire continued, till the Reformation placed them under a presbytery
and a synod.

The only religious house which seems to have been ever founded within
this shire was an establishment for monks of Tyrone at Selkirk as early
as 1113 A.D. [g). Here they remained during fifteen years of penitentiary
trial. Eadulphus, who conducted his monks to this retired spot within the
forest, was the original abbot. He was soon succeeded by William, the
second abbot, who is recollected by Fordun (/i) ; and William was followed,
before the year 1124, by the third abbot, Herbert, who ruled the monks when
they were removed, on account of inconvenient accommodation, to Kelso in
1128, and who rose to be bishop of Glasgow, upon the death of John, in
1147 (i). This abbey was settled near the king's castle and village, and the
attendants upon the monks soon reared a new hamlet, which obtained the
appropriate appellation of ^eWivk-ahhatis. The settlement in the forest of a
body of strangers who, as they had seen other countries and knew other
modes of life, must have introduced here some improvements. Even after the
removal of the monks, the abbot, during many an age, had his manor around
the town, with his baronial court at the bridge, and his church with his grange,
his husbandmen and cottagers, with his mill, his malt-kiln, and his brewhouses.
While the king's castle remained here through many a year, the abbot was
bound, by the tenure of his land, to act as the king's chaplain within the
royal castle. The Duke of Eoxbvirgh, who wears " the fair-liued slippers " of
the abbot, is bound to act as chaplain here when the king shall restore his
castle, and to repair the bridge while he enjoys the land that was amortized to
its use. The ancient jurisdiction of the archdeacon of Teviotdale was trans-
ferred, by the Reformation, to the synod of Merse and Teviotdale. The five
parishes of Selkirkshire are comprehended in the presbytery of Selkirk, which is,
however, of modern establishment. Melrose was the seat of this presbytery soon
after the Reformation. Selkirk presbytery stands the eleventh on the Roll, and
consists of eleven parishes, the five lying chiefly in this shire, and Bowden,
Ashkirk, St. Boswells, Lilliesleaf, Melrose, and Maxton, in Roxburghshire.

{g) Spottiswoode, 430 ; Keith, 248 ; Dalrymp. Col., 403 ; Chart. Kelso, No. 4. limes states the
foundation of this monastery, in 1114, perhaps mistakingly. MS. Chronology. Lord Hailes places
this event in 1113. An., i. 96. The Tyrone monks were certainly settled there in 1113. Sim. Dun.,
236; Chron. Melrose, 1G3.

{h) L. v., c. 36.

(?) He is mentioned in the foundation charter of Earl David as abbot of Selkirk, which was granted,
before his accession to the throne, in 1124.

1000 AnACCOUNT Ch. Yni.— Selkirkshire.

The king's hunting-seat in the forest gave rise to the earUest church, which
was merely the chapel of the king's court, and hence derived its name of
Sele-chirche in the old English of that uni'efined age. When the abbey was
established here in 1113 a.d., a second church was erected as the chapel of
the abbots, his monks, and his men. David I. gave his church here, with its
tithes and oblations to the abbot, on condition of his actmg as chaplain to the
royal castle (i). In 1232, Walter, the bishop of Glasgow, confirmed to the abbot
of Kelso, " ecclesiam de Selekirk, et ecclesiam de altera Selkirk " (k). In the
ancient statement of the property of the monks of Kelso, they say that they
had the cluu-ch of Selkirk-regis, " in rectoria," which was usually worth £20
a year, and also the church of Selkirk-abbatis, " in rectoria," which was com-
monly worth forty shillings a year. The two towns, no doubt, soon run into
each other, as the abbot possessed much property within and around both (/).
How long the two churches remained separate is unknown (;«.). Even tradition
has forgotten that there ever were two, though the unerring recoi'd has pre-
served that curious fact {n). The abbot probably conjoined them, upon the
economical principle of the Reformation, to save the expense of a curate. The
church of Selkirk-regis was served by a vicar, who was supported by vicarage
dues (o). When the Reformation had dissolved the abbey of Kelso, the patron-
age of the church of Selkirk was transferred to the progenitor of the Duke
of Roxburgh, who is now the patron of the parish church. In Selku-k town
the Burgher seceders have their own meeting-house, which is the only seceding
establishment in this shire of shepherds (j)). [The Parish church (1864) has 1075

(i) Chart, Kelso, No. 370. The condition is express, that the abbot should be chaplain to the king,
his sons, and their successors, within the same church. (k) lb., 278.

(/) Font's Map of Ettrick forest, in Blaeu's Atlas, represents Selkirk town as one compact
body.

(hi) In 1296 there was only one clergyman in Selkirk, namely Richard, " vicaire del Eglise
de Selkirk," who swore fealty to Edwai-d I. Prynne, iii. 660. This notice shows sufficiently
that there was but one church, and one vicaire, in Selkirk town ; the rectory being in the abbot
of Kelso.

(n) The intelligent writer of the Statistical Account of Selkirk parish is quite unconscious that
there had ever been two churches in the shire town.

(o) In 1421, Schyr Wilzeam Myddilmas, chappellayne to Archibald Douglas, Earl of TVigton, was
vicare of Selkirk. Eecord Great Seal, Book ii., No. 60. In June 1489, the lords auditors in
parliament heard the suit of Alexander Ker, calling himself parish clerk of Selkirk, against Robert
Scott, in the Haining, and John, his son, for withholding from him the fees, fruits, and profits of his
oflSce, for fifteen years, of the value of twenty marks a year; but as both parties claimed the clerk-
ship, as a matter of right, and this being a spiritual suit, the lords referred it to the judge ordinary.
Pari. Bee, 356. (p) Stat. Acco., ii. 443.

Sect. YUl.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NOETH-BEITAIN. 1001

communicants; stipend, £496. A quoad sacra church at HeatherHe has 370 com-
municants. A Free church has 360 members. Two U.P. churches have together
961 members. There are also Episcopal, Roman Catholic, and E.U. churches.

The name of the parish of Galashiels was derived from the town, and the
town obtained both its origin and appellation from a hamlet on the Guhi water.
The terms Shiels, and Shielings, were very common among the Northumbi'ian
Saxons on both sides of the present border, as temporary shelters for shepherds
when following their flocks (q). Near the Gala there are other places which
derive the significant part of their names from the same term. There are Cauld-
shiels, Foul-shiels, and Herd-shiel ; and Gala-s/wVZs meant, originally, nothing
more than the temporary huts on the Gala, the shelter of the shepherds
who tended their flocks on the pasturages of the Gala. But in a secondary
sense, the term Shiels, or Shieling, signified a summer pasturage where the
herdsmen lived in huts. The present parish was formed by the conjunction of
the two old parishes of Bolside [Bow-side] and Lindean. The former is in Sel-
kirkshire, on the northern side of the Tweed, and Lindean is in Boxburghshire,
on the southei-n side of the same river, within a mile of Selkirk town. The
church of Bolside stood in a hamlet of that name, about half a mile below the
junction of the Ettrick and the Tweed (r). Keith and our other parochial histor-
ians, seem to have been quite unconscious that there ever existed such a parish
as Bolside. The other parish of Lin-dean derived its name from the British Lyii,
signifying, secondarily, a river-pool, which was adopted by the Saxons, and the
Anglo-Saxon Dene, a valley. Bolside seems to have been an ancient parish,
though it does not appear in any of the chartularies, having never been granted
to any monkish order. It was in Lindean church where the body of William
Douglas, the knight of Liddisdale, lay the first night after his assassination in
1353. Lindean probably became the church of the monks of Dryburgh, who
enjoyed it to their proper use, while the cure was served by a perpetual vicar («),
It had ceased to be the parish church before the year 1649, when the church
of Galashiels was reckoned one of t\\Q four parish kirks in Selkirkshire {t). [The
Pai'ish church (1813) has 941 communicants; stipend, £460. There are also
three quoad sacra churches in the parish. Two Free churches have 901 members.
Three U.P. churches have 1485 members. There are also Episcopal, Roman
Catholic, Evangelical Union, and two Baptist churches.]

(q) Holland's Camden, 80G ; and see before, in this volume, 309.

(r) Pout's Maps, in Blaeu's Atlas, No. 5 and 8, wherein he calls it Boldsyid kirk. In AinsHe's Map
of this shire, the hamlet is named Bollside.

(s) In Bagimont's Eoll, as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Linden, in the deanery of
Tevidale and diocese of Glasgow, was taxed at £4.

(<) By Messrs. Elliot and Scot's MS. Account, 1649, in the Advocates Library.

1002 An account [Ch. Yai.—SelHrkshire.

The parish of Yarrow takes its Celtic name from the river Yarrow, which,
as we have seen, is merely the British Jarrow. This extensive district, along
the Yarrow, comprehends within its ample limits the old parishes of Duchoire,
St. Mary's, and Kirkhope (it). Duchoire derived its Celtic name from the
Gaelic Du-choire, signifying what the thing is, a small valley, through which
a rivulet finds its course to the YaiTow. At the entrance of this valley, on the
north-west side of the Yarrow, stood the ancient church of Duchoire (x). In
the progress of perversion, this significant name became Deuchar. The modern
map-maker has been more diligent to mark Deuchar tower, the stronghold of
the feudal proprietor, than to note the site of the religious house (y). The
district which was anciently attached to Duchoire church composes the east
part of Yarrow parish. St. Mary's Church derived its name from the Virgin
to whom it was dedicated. It stood near the mouth of a small valley, anciently
called Farmainshope, lying on tlie north-west side of a beautiful lake, which
was called from it St. Mary's loch. It was colloquially called St. Marys kirk
of the Lowes, as we have seen. In charters, it was desci'ibed as the chui'ch of
the Virgin Mary in Ettrick forest (s). The old parish of St. Mary's forms
the west part of the present parish. The church of Kirk-Ziope was situated in a
valley, which derived from it the name of Kirk/io^jc, through which a rivulet
finds its devious career to the Ettrick below Ettrick bridge. The district
which was attached to this kirk now forms the east and south-east part of the
parish of Yarrow (a). In July 1292, Edward I. directed the chancellor of
Scotland to present Edmond de Letham to the church of the Virgin Mary of
Farmainshope, in the diocese of Glasgow, which was void by the resignation
of Aimer de Softlaw {b). In 1296, Edmond de Letham, parson of the church
of the forest, swore fealty to Edward I., and was in return restored to his
rights (c). It is doubtful whether the advowson of this church lemained long

(!/) Messrs. Elliot and Scot called tlie parish kirk, in 1649, "the Mary kirk of the Lowes, alias Yaro
kirk." Id.

(x) Font's Map, in Blaeu, No. 5. {y) Ainslie's Map of this shire.

{z) David II. granted to the monks of Dryburgh the advowson " de Beat« Marise Virginis," in
Ettrick forest. Robertson's Index, 59. The monks retained this advowson till the Eeformation trans-
ferred it to some border chief. They probably had also the rectory ; for the church of St. Mary of
the Lotces was a vicarage at that epoch of change. MS. 1658, in my Library.

(a) In the Bagimont's Eoll, there is the " rectoria de Foresia,'' valued at £13 6s. 8d., "extra
ecclesiam Glasguen." in the deanery of Peebles. St. Mary's of the Lowes was a mother church, which
had of old several chapels that were subordinate to it.

(6) Eot. Scotiae, 9. (c) lb., 24.

Sect. Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histonj.] OrNOETH-BEITAIN. 1003

with the monks of Dryburgh, as it seems to have continued a rectoiy till the
Reformation ((^). [The Parish church has 202 communicants; stipend, £418.
A Free church has 70 members.]

Like Yarrow parish, Ettrick takes its Celtic name, as we have seen, from
the river Ettrick, upon the north-west side whereof stands the church (e). The
present parish includes, on the east, the okl parish of Buccleuch, whose church
may still be traced on Rankle burn (/"). In the south-west of this parish, there
was of old a church in a small valley, which was called Kirk-hope, through
which ran to the Ettrick Kirkhope burn, and in the north-west corner of this
parish, there was once a chapel, which stood at no great distance from the south-
west corner of the Loch of the Lowes, in a small valley, called from it Chapel-
hope. The chapel was probably subordinate to the mother church of St. Mary,
in Yarrow parish. [The Parish church (1824) has 149 communicants; stipend,
£321. A Free church has 96 members.]

RoBERTON parish took its present name fi'om the hamlet at which the modern
church was built, and this hamlet obtained its name in more early times, from
being the tun or dwelling of some person who was called Robert, and who can-
not now be traced. The parish of Roberton comprehends the ancient parish of
Borthwic, or Kirk-Borthwic, to which there was annexed about the year 1682,
a part of the suppressed parish of Hassendean, with some specific sections of
the adjoining parishes of Hawick and Wilton, with a small portion of the
parish of Selkirk, which lay at a distance from the town, and since a new
church was built at Roberton in 1695, this circumstance gave the name of
Roberton to this parish, thus composed of several sections of different
parishes [g). The church of Borthwic stood on the north-west side of Borthwic
water, at a place which was formerly called Kirk-Borthwic, and is now named

(d) The patronage of that church belonged to the Douglasses from the epoch of their obtaining from
Robert I. the forest of Selkirk, till their forfeiture, in 1455, when it fell to the king, who still enjoys
it. Mathew de Geddes, the secretary of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, was rector of the church of St.
Mary, in the forest, between 1401 and 1424. In 1461, George Liddale, the king's secretary, was
rector of the same church. Rym., ii. 476. In 1490, John Ireland, the professor of theology at Paris,
was rector of this church ; and died archdeacon of St. Andrews, if we may credit Dempster. Ireland's
System of Theology is in the Advocates Lib. in MS. Complaint of Scotland, 84-5. There is a MS.
Treatise, in the same copious Library, on several points of divinity, which was written by the same
theologian for the instruction of James IV. and his people.

(e) In 1649, this was called by Elliot and Scot, "the New kirk of Etrik."

(/) From its position on this stream it is called, by Pont, Rankil-burn-ldrk, in Blaeu's Atlas
Scotiae, No. 5.

((/) The date of 1695 is inscribed on the new church. Stat. Acco., ii. 542.

100-1 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Tm.— Selkirkshire.

Borthwic-brae (h). Boithwic derived its singulai' name from the Anglo-Saxon
Bord-ivir, signifying the castle or the vil on the border, or brink, as we may
learn from Somner, and the fact. This name describes the position on the
margin of the river, which assumed the name of Borthwic from the name of
the place. In the eastern part of the present parish, on the south-east side of
Borthwic water, within Roxburghshire, there was of old a chapel, which was
subordinate to the church of Hasseudean, that belonged, as we have formerly
seen, to the abbot of ]\Ielrose. This chapel, the ruins whereof may still be traced
by antiquarian eyes, had an officiating chaplain out of the establishment of the
monks, who were detached from the monastery of Melrose to the cell of
Hassendean. The western half of Roberton parish, with the church, is in
Selkirkshire, while the eastern half is in Roxburghshire. [The Parish church
(1863) has 166 communicants; stipend, £330.]

We have now seen from the foregoing examination, that in the darksome
days of the ancient regimen, there wei-e in this little shire twelve places of
Christian worship. The Reformation left but five. In whatever aspect we
view this religious change, we see two of its ingredients were a passion for
plunder-, and a religious sacrifice to personal avarice. In the midst of this odious
scramble, the reformed clergy cried out in vain. The people who ofiered their
adorations in those twelve temples of ancient times, have been either wasted by
war, or driven away by policy ; and the populousness of the good old reigns
of the Alexanders, has been reduced to the narrow numbers of a frigid economy.
The aged men all agree in asserting, what ruins evince, that the population of
this shire was greater during the days of David II. than at the Revolution,
and greater at the Union than in 1755, when Doctor Webster formed his
estimate (t). From the returns which were made to that intelligent person, the
population of Selkirkshire in 1755, seems to have been only 4,968 souls.
But there is reason for thinking that the numbers which were transmitted to
him from the parishes of Ettrick and Yarrow, were only the examinable
persons ; being those who v.'ere above six or seven years of age (k). If the

(/() Kirk-Boithwic is mentioned in two charters of Robert I. Eobertson's Index, 5.

(i) There anciently were, in Selkirk parish, two churches ; in Galashiels, two ; in Yarrow, three
churches ; in Ettrick, three ; in Eoberton, two ; and in the whole shire, which of old had twelve kirks,
there are now oniy Jive.

(k) The ministers of Yarrow, and of Ettrick, are positive that the whole numbers in those
parishes were not sent to Doctor Webster. The enumerations in 1791 furnish a greater number
of people than those of 1755 ; while it is an incontrovertible fact that the people, meanwhile,
had greatly decreased. Stat. Acco., vii. 504 ; lb., iii. 296. The minister of Roberton is equally
positive that his parishioners had diminished greatly in the same period. lb., xi. 543. The

Sect. YUl—Its Eccleskcitical History.] Or NORTH-BEIT A IN. 1<J05

usual number of persons under six and seven years of age in those two parishes
be added, then the population of Selkirkshire in 1755 will be 5,362. The
returns of 1791 amounts only to 5,233. This diminution evinces that, not-
withstanding the increase of manufacturers in Galashiels and in Selkirk, the
population of the whole shire had somew^hat diminished during the flourishing
period of the preceding forty years. If the population of 1791 had been equal
to the numbers of 1755, this equality would have only proved that the shire
had lost in people, by the agricultural system, what it had gained from
manufacturing employments. The enumeration of 1801 makes the population
of Selkirkshire 5,446. This apparent increase is jiartly owing to the growth of
manufiicture, perhaps more to the precise mode of making up the statements
by actual enumeration. Such, then, are the facts and reasonings which may
induce a judicious reader to think that the detail of population in the Agricul-
tural Survey and the following Table, represent the people to have increased
Avhile they have, in fact, somewhat decreased. In Dr. Webster's Manuscript
Tables the population of the parishes of Selkirk, Ettrick, Yarrow, and Eoberton,
is given as the whole people of Selkirkshire (/). Yet do those statements lead
to misconception, as considerable parts of Roberton and Galashiels are
actually in Roxburghshire, while some portions of the parishes of Ashkirk,
Stow, and Inverleithen, are in Selkirkshire. The able writer of the Agricultural
Survey has given an improved statement of the population of the several sections
of the parishes in this shire during the years 1790 and 1793. The accurate
enumerations of 1801 have furnished not only some additional information,
but the means of giving, in the Tabular State subjoined, an exact statement of
the population of this shire, which contains the whole of three parishes and
portions of five others. Of the parish of Selkirk a very small proportion is in
Roxburghshire, though this part is so little as to be unworthy of distinction.
The extensive parishes of Ettrick and Yarrow are wholly in Selkirkshire. Of
Galashiels a considerable part of the extent, but only a small part of the popu-

minister of Selkirk asserts that the depopulation of liis parish Lad occurred, entirel)', in the country
district of it. lb. ii. 435. The minister of Galashiels says that the number of people in that parish
had declined considerably in the preceding century ; and that the number returned to Dr. Webster in
1755 was 998, while the enumeration of 1791 found only 914. lb. ii. 306. The decrease in the
population between 1755 and 1791, was chiefly owing to the consolidation of farms, and the demolition
of cottages.

(l) The ministers, in their subsequent accounts, follow his error in giving the numbers of people in
Selkirk, Ettrick, Yarrow, and Galashiels, as the whole population of this shire.
4 6K

1006 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. YUl— Selkirkshire.

lation, is in Roxburghsliire, the larger half in extent and four-fifths of the
population being in Selkirkshire. Of Roberton about a half of the extent,
and greatly more than a half of the population, are in Roxburghshire (?«). Of
Ashkirk, Stow, and Inverleithen, the Tabular State subjoined only gives the
population contained in this shire. The other details of those parishes are
given in the Tables of Roxbui'gh, Edinburgh, and Peebles-shire, to which they
properly belong, on such points as cannot be separated (n). Among the
capricious boundaries of the Scottish shires arising from private interest and
public inattention, none of them is so absurdly intermixed by injudicious loca-
tion as the outline of Selkirkshire, which can only be reformed into convenient
arrangement by parliament. In considering the ministers' stipends the follow-
ing intimations may be observed. When the stipends of 1798 were settled,
the yearly value of the glebes were included, but not the manses. The stipends
of Selkirk, Ettrick, Yarrow, and Galashiels, contain the augmentations which
had been then recently made. Of Roberton the process of augmentation was
still depending. In estimating the victual stipends of 1798, the barley was
valued at 18 shillings and the meal at 16 shillings a boll, Linlithgow measure,
being an average of the prices for several preceding years (o). For there are
no fier-prices struck in this pastoi'al shire. Such, then, are the intimations
which it was necessary to premise for distinctly understanding the Tabular
State on next page.

())i) In the Tabular State subjoined, the whole of the extent and of the stipends are given ; but only
the proportion of the population within Selkirkshire. Of Galashiels and Eoberton, the whole people at
the \hree epochs in that Table, stood thus :

In 1755. In 1791. In 1801.

Galashiels 998 914 1,018

Eoberton .... - 651 629 618

(») Of Ashkirk, more than a half of the extent and more than two-thirds of the population are in
Eoxburghshire, which also contains the parish church. Of Stow, b)' much the greater part of the ex-
tent, and about five-sixths of the population are in Edinburghshire, with the parish church. Of Inver-
leithen, only a small part of the extent, and a still smaller portion of the population are in Selkirk-
shire, while the church and the great body of the parish are in Peebles-shire.

(o) The average above mentioned agrees very nearly with the average of the prices which were
formed by the keeper of the Corn Eegister, during the seven years ending with 1797. The victual
stipend is paid by the Linlithgow standard, and not by the Selkirkshire boll, which, for barley and
oats, contains 7 bushels, 2 peeks, 28-7 cubic inches, English measure.

Sect. VIII. —Its Ecclesiastical History.] Of NORTH-BEITAIN.

1007

The Tabulae State.

Parishes.

Extent

in
Acres.

Inhabitants.
1755. 1801. 1881.

Churches.

D H tf

£3

Stipends.
1755. 1798.

P.-ist Patrons.

£ s. i).

£ s. V.

Selkirk, -

- 22,895

1,79.3

2,098

7,432

2 1 1

—

96 11 1

170 0 0

The Duke of Roxburgh.

Yarrow, -

- 41,856

1,180

1,216

639

— — —

—

104 8 10

165 19 9

The King.

Ettrick, -

- 42,682J

397

445

397

— — —

—

65 2 2

118 0 0

Lord Napier.

Galashiels,

- 8,589

827

844

9,742

3 1 1

77 15 6

134 6 2

Scot of Gala.

Roberton,-

- 29,666|

250

237

567

—

— — —

—

67 10 0

144 18 n

The King.

Ashkirk, -

—

201

163

—

— — —

—

Stow,

—

259

376

—

— — —

—

Inverleithen,

—

— - -

—

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Full text of "Caledonia : or, a historical and topographical account of North Britain, from the most ancient to the present times with a dictionary of places chorographical & philological"

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